IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  mtcroreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliogrisphic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  niter  any  of  the  images  in  tha 
reproduction.,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagie 


□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pellicula 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 


□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bieue  ou  noire) 

I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


n 


n 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReiiA  avec  d'autres  documaniis 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distorsion  k  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

3lank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais.  lorsque  cela  4tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  tti  filmies. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppJdmentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  axemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  4tt6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exigar  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqute  ci-dessous. 


r~^    Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommaqtes 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restauries  et/ou  pellicjides 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  fcxe< 
Pages  dicolor^es,  tacheties  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prin 

Quality  inigale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materit 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I      I  Pages  damaged/ 

r~|  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~7|  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

ry\  Pages  detached/ 

r~7]  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

n~|  Only  edition  available/ 


□    Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmies  d  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ca  document  est  fWtni  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiqu4  ci-dessous 

10X  14X  18X  22X 

r 


12X 


y 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


n 

32X 


'8 

dtaJIs 
fs  du 
nodifier 
ir  une 
ilmage 


IS 


The  copy  filmed  hers  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Douglas  Library 
Queen's  University 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  qualllty 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Origmal  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —»•  (meaning  "CON- 
TlrJUED  "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exemplaire  filmt  fut  reproduit  grflce  A  la 
gAn6rosit«  de: 

Dcjglas  Library 
Queen's  University 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  At6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet*  de  I'exempiairb  f  ilm6,  et  en 
conformit6  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  7ilm6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  on  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symholes  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — *•  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  uppar  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  pisnches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  r6duction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trcp  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  fiimi  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diaurammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m6thode. 


irrata 
to 


pelure, 

n  A 


D 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

The  EDITH  and  LORNE  PIERCE 
COLLECTION  of  CANADI  ANA 


§lueen's  University  at  Kingston 


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($mmB  Ittto^raitg 
ffitbrarg 


KINGSTON,  ONTARIO 


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THE   CATARACT   HOUSE, 

NIAGARA  FALLS,  N.  Y. 

Established  1814. 


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Ml  iHjnrrrrii  n    i  iitKiiir 

BEST   AND    BEST    KNOWN    HOTEL    AT    NIAGARA. 

STRICTLY  FIRST   CLASS. 

Adjoining  State  Ressrvation,  and  dibectlt  opposite  Goat  Island. 
Only  first-class  Hotel  on  the  American  side  conducted  exclusively  on 

the  American  Flan. 

J.  E.  DEVLflEUX,  Manager. 


AUENOE  UOOSET 
^-— .    11  ^Select  Family  M?I. 

17,  19,  21,  and  2;t  McQiU  College  Avenue.  MONTREAL. 


Urmirpassed  for  its  central  position,  being 
equally  convenient  for  business  or  pleasure. 


E.  S.  Reynolds,  Proprietor. 

Telephone  No.  4889. 


ROOMS   FROM   $1.50   TO  $2.00   PER  DAY. 
Take  a  Hack  and  drive  direct  to  the  Hotel  ;  same  price  as  by  'bus. 


IS  THE  LATEST  ADDITION  TO  THE  NEWS  SERIES  FAMILY: 

The  Saratoga  News,  The  Richfield  News,  The  Thousand  Island  News, 
The  Adirondack  News,  The  St.  Augustine  News, 

,  HANDSOMELY    PRINTED,   DAINTILY   ILLUSTRATED, 

WHICH    HAVE    BEEN   CALLED 

Tlie  "COORT  JODRKALS"  of  American  Heailli  and  Pleasnre  Resorts. 

$1.00    EACH.    FOR   THE    SFASON. 
Biohfield  Springs,  N.  Y.,  Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y.,  Alexandria  Bay,  N.  Y 
Saranao  Lake,  N.  Y.,  St.  Augustine,  Florida.  *      * 

^^^^^        Published  by  FRANK  Q,  BARRY. 


THE  HOTEL  KALTENBACH, 

NIAGARA  FALLS,  N.  Y. 

Opposite  the  Rapids,  near  and  above  Cataract  Hotel. 
A  select,  first-class  house  in  every  respect.    -     ,    - 
American  Plan.  $3.00  per  Day.  a.  KALTENBACH,  Proprietor. 


The  Heart  o!  the  Berkshire  flllls. 

^  THE  MAPLE  WOOD, 

PITTSFIELD,  MASS. 

'Hu  largest  Hotel  in  the  Berkshire  HUls,  and  the  only  one  surrounded  by  beautiful  grounds. 
Within  easy  driving  distance  of  all  other  resorts,  as  it  is  the  center  of  this  famous  region. 

Open  from  June  ist  to  November  ist. 

ARTHUR  W.  PLUMB,  Propbietob. 


TO    ADVERTISERS. 

The  attontion  of  the  proprietors  of  Hotels  and  Siiininer  Resorts,  Railroad  and 
Steamship  ..:oinpanies,  and  all  who  desire  to  reach  the  very  best  class  of  Travelers 
and   Tourists,  is  called  to  the  following  publications  of  I).  AIMM.HTON  &  CO. 
as  admirably  adapted  for  that  purpose.  ' 

Full  particulars  will  be  niade  known  by  addressing; 

HHNRY  W.  QUIN, 

Nkw  York. 


APPLHTONS'  GKNHRAL  C.UIDH-BOOKS  TO  THE 
UNITHI)  STATHS  AND  CANADA. 

Illustrated.     Two  l^olunu's. 
NEW  HNCLANl)  AND  Minni.E  STATES, 

WESTERN  AND  SOUTHERN  STATES, 

^nd  complfte  in  One  Volume. 

APPLETONS'  HAND-BOOK  OF  SUMMER  RESORTS. 

One  rolunw.     f\jprr  Cover. 

A  clear,  compact,  and  readable  account  of  the  great  Watcring-Places  and 
leading  Resorts  of  th.e  Summer  Tourist. 

GUIDE  TO  CANADA. 

Giving  full  descriptions  of  Fishing  and  Shooting  Grounds,  Resorts,  etc. 
^  new  book,  tcilb  Maps  and  Itliishations. 

APPLETONS"  GUIDE-BOOK  TO  ALASKA  AND  THE 
NORTHWEST  COAST. 

Including  tlie  shores  of  Washington,  British  Columbia,  Southeastern  Alaska,  the 
Aleutian  Islands,  the  Seal  Islands,  Bering  Sea,  and  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

By  Miss  ELIZA   RUHAMAH   SCIDMORE. 

IVitb  Maps  and  Illustrations.  A  most  interesting  and  instructive  booh. 


|THE  CLIFTON  HOUSE, 

NIAGARA  FALLS. 

Open  from  May  to  November  of  each  Year. 

I         contort       Ihe    cuisine    service    and  attention  un- 
l>urpassed.     Locution  directly  facing  the  Falls. 

POSITIVELY  the  only  hotel  commanding  .ny 
View  whatever  of  the  FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 

Check  baggage  to  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y.     Leave  cars 
||t  same  place.     lor  apartments  and  information,  address 

Q-  M.  COLBURN,  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y. 


HANDBOOK  OF  BIRDS 

OF  EASTERN  NORTH  AMERICA. 

^'^^'.w^S*?  ^.^P^^Pecies;  Descriptions  of  their  Plumages,  Nests  etc  • 
their  Distribution  and  Migratic  is.  By  Frank  M  ChapmIm' 
Assistant  Curator  of  Mammalogy  and  Ornirhology,  America^ 
Museum   of   Natural    History.      With   nearly  200  1  lustSns 

^HIS  book  treats  of  all  the  birds,  some  five  hundred  and  forty  in  number,  which 

have  been  found  east  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  from  the  Arctic  Ocean  To  he 

,  Gulf  of  Mexico.     The  author's  position  has  not  only  given  him  excepUonal 

but  has  brought  h,m  m  direct  contact  with  beginners  in  the  study  of  birds  whose  wanU 

ivoided,  and  by  the  use  of  illustrations,  concise  descriptions,  analytical  keys  dates  of 

teferV 'h     r"'^  ""  ''^^"'"^•^"'  ''^""*^'  -^-  and  characteristL'hlbt    the 
jproblem  of  identification,  eitheHrnhe^leld^r  study,  is  reduced  to  its  simplest  terms! 

For  saie  by  all  bookulUrs  ;  oVZii^^T::;:^^^^  on  reZipt  of  price  by  the  publUkers, 

D.  APPLETON  &  CO.,  72  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York. 


*THE*QUEEN'S* 

-  HOTEL. 


Toronto,  Canada. 


I 


McQAW  &  WINNETT, 

Proprietors. 

* 

ONE  of  the  largest  and  most  comfortable  hotels  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and, 
being  adjacent  to  the  Lake,  commands  a  splendid  view  of  Toronto  Bay  and 
Lake  Ontario.  It  is  well  known  as  one  of  the  coolest  houses  in  summer  in  Canada, 
and  is  elegantly  furnished  throughout. 

Rooms  en,  suite,  with  bath-rooms  attached,  on  every  floor. 

THI7   OTIFPN'^  ^as  been  liberally  patronized  by   royalty  and  nobility! 
lll£i   \alUijIjll  O  durmg  their  visits  to  Toronto,  and  among  those  who  have 
honored  it  with  their  patronage  are:    His  Imperial  Highness  the  Grand 
Duke  Alexis  of  Russia ;  their  Royal  Highnesses,  Prince  Leopold,  I'rince 
George  ;  Princess  Louise,  and  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Connaught ;  the 
Marquis  of  Lome  ;  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Dufferin  ;  the  Marquis  and 
Marchioness  of  Lansdowne  ;  Lord  and  Lady  Stanley,  of  Preston  ;  Earl 
and  Countess  of  Aberdeen. 
THE  QUEEN'S  is  furnished  with  all  tlie  latest  modern  improvements.    Pas- 
senger elevator,  electric  bells,  etc. 


The  Queen's  Royal  Hotel, 

NIAGARA,  ON  THE  LAKE,  ONTARIO. 

This  hotel  and  summer  resort  is  located  in  a  beautiful  grove  opposite 
Fort  Niagara,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara 
River.  It  is  capable  of  accommodating  three  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  All 
modern  improvements.  The  drives  along  the  banks  of  the  lake  and  river 
are  beautiful  and  refreshing.  Application  for  rooms  may  be  made  to  the 
proprietors  of  the  "  Queen's  Hotel,"  Toronto,  Ontario,  up  to  June  1st ;  after 
that  date,  to  the  "Queen's  Royal,"  Niagara,  on  the  lake,  Ontario. 

McGAW  &  WINNETT,  Proprietors. 


THK 


CANADIAJN^   GUIDE-BOOK 


COMPLETE  IN  ONE   VOLUME 


A  GUIDE  TO 

(Kaotern  (Canaba  anb  Newfonnbland 

INCLUDING  FULL  DESCRIPTIONS  OF 

ROUTES,  CITIES.  POINTS  OF  INTEREST.  SUMMER  RESORTS, 

INFORMATION  FOR  SPORTSMEN,  ETC. 

By  CHARLES  G.   D.   ROBERTS 

LATE  PROFESSOR  OF  ENGLISH  UTERATURE  IN  KINO'S  COLLEQK,  WINDSOR,  N.  S. 

AND 

toestern  (t^XiCita  to  bancatitjcr's  lelanb 

INCLUDING  THE  CANADIAN  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 
AND  NATIONAL   PARK 


WITH  MAPS  AND  MANY  ILLUSTRATIONS 


NEW   YORK 
D.    APPLETON   AND    COMPANY 

1895 


t  '<  'i  p  f. 


UP 


FC5g.C5       l'3S5 


r  f  r  «  « 

,  C  r..     I 


OoPTRiOHT,  1891,  1892,  1894,  1895, 

By  d.  appleton  and  C0MF\NY. 


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.  0  «  *  • 


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r  •  fc  % 


COJN  TENTS. 


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Iktboduction 


I'AOE 

1 


EASTERN   CANADA. 

PKOVINCK  OF  ONTARIO. 

Thk  Niagara  Kiveh _ 

Niagara  Fallu    •-....,.,''  ^ 

From  Niaoaha  to  Toronto W 

The  Water  Koiite      ••......*  '10 

The  Grand  Trunk  Koute .u 

Hamilton *       " JJ 

Toronto .       \ « 

The  MuHkoka  DiHtrlct      .       .       .       .'       .        ...  30 

From  Toronto  eastward      .       .                      ^ 

Kingston !!!!"'*'  4? 

The  Tho.iBand  iBlands      ....        .       .       .'       .        '  44 

The  St.  Lawrence  Rapids        .  '47 

„       Ottawa .".■.■■'.''■  49 

1  ROM  Ottawa  to  Montreal M 

PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 

Province  op  Quebec       ...  .r. 

Montreal     ••..!.!.."""  «i 

From  Montreal  to  St.  John        •..'!...  73 

From  Montreal  to  Quebec  ...!!]'  -4 

By  the  St.  Lawrence  River       .       .       .       .       '.  '"a 

By  Rail  on  the  South  Shore     .       .       .       '. L 

By  Rail  on  the  North       .        .               „, 

Quebec ■.".'!.*'■  82 

From  Quebec  to  Lake  St.  John  .       .                      o« 

Lake  St.  John *'.*.'*"  JOO 

Down  the  St.  Lawrence  and  up  the  Sagubnay    !  108 

The  Saguenay  River 107 

From  Chicoutimi  to  the  Mouth       .       ', j^j, 

Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity      •..."''  no 

From  Quebec  to  the  Maritime  Provinces  : 

By  Rail       . 
''  • 110 

By  Steamship  round  Gaspe      .        ,  '    ,.* 

The  Ga8p6  Peninsula       .  " 

Ill 

190215 


'fr:W~T?»*W?'^ 


IV 


CONTENTS. 


I    ! 


t- 


PROVINCE  OF  liEW  BRUNSWICK. 

PAQB 

The  pRovracB  of  New  Brunswick 122 

llie  Restigouche 128 

Fhom  the  Rsstiquuche  to  Moncton  .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .127 

The  Mfraiaichi 180 

Itloncton 132 

Trips  from  Moncton 132 

FaoM  Moncton  to  St.  John 184 

St.  John 185 

Up  the  River  St.  John " 142 

Fredericton        , 148 

From  Fefdericton  to  Woodstock 152 

The  Upper  St.  John 153 

The  Grand  Falls  of  the  St.  John .156 

Above  the  Grand  Falls 158 

R0UT3R  FOR  THE   SPORTSMAN 160 

Up  the  Tobique  by  Canoe 166 

Bv  Rail  from  Woodstock 181 

Campobello  and  Grand  Manan .184 

The  Return  to  St.  John 187 

From  Moncton  to  Amherst 188 

FRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 

Prince  Edward  Island 188 

Cbarlottetown 196 

Frou  Cbarlottetown  eastward        .       .       .       .       .      ..       .       .198 

NOVA  SCOTIA. 

Nova  Scotia 201 

To  PiCTou  AND  Antioonish 204 

Cape  Breton 208 

Through  the  Bras  d'03  Waters  to  Sydney 200 

Badde'k 210 

Sydney 212 

LOUISBOCRO 213 

Frok  Nkw  Glasoow  to  Trcjro  and  HALir-Ax   .        .       .        .       .       .216 

Truro p<<j 

Halifax 219 

From  Halifax  to  Bridgewater 240 

From  Bridoewater  to  Yarmouth 243 

Yaimoiith 246 

From  Halifax  eastward 247 

FROTd  Halifax  to  Yarmouth  by  Rail 248 

Windsor ....  "MQ 

From  Windsok  to  Parrseoro  and  St.  John    ......  251 

From  Windsor  to  Grand  Pr^ 258 


CONTENTS.  V 

PAGE 

Fbom  Wolfville  to  Annapolis 257 

From  Annapolis  to  Yarmouth '    .       .  260 

NEWFOUNDLAND. 

The  Island  of  Newfoundland ggg 

St.  John's 22g 

Trips  from  St.  John's    ...              gg<} 

Along  the  Coast _      .  234 

Conception  Bay  and  the  South  Coast 335 

The  French  Shore 000 


WESTERN   CANADA. 
Montreal  to  Ottawa  : 

a.  By  the  Canadian  Pacific  Ry ggg 

b.  By  the  Canadian  Atlantic  Ry 209 

Ottawa cjgg 

Ottawa  to  Sudbury *.       .       .270 

Sudbury  to  Sault  Ste.  Marie     .       .       .       , 272 

Sudbury  to  Winnipeg 272 

North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior 278 

Manitoba gyg 

Winnipeg 277 

Winnipeg  to  Regina 279 

assiniboia 281 

Reojna  to  Prince  Albert 288 

Saskatchewan 284 

Regina  to  Calgary 285 

Alberta 287 

Calgary  to  Donald 29q 

The  Rocky  Mountain  Park  of  Canada 291 

British  Columbia     .     * 296 

Donald  to  Vancouver    .       ,              ,.       .       .  299 

Vancouver 3O7 

Vancouver  to  Victoria 20^ 

Victoria g09 


APPENDIX  FOR  SPORTSMEN. 

General  Information 3II 

Lessees  of  Fishing  Rights 812 

Close  Seasons  for  Fishing  and  Hunting 815 


:*jM|iWWPW>''ii  1 1 II' II  Ji^n  wi»i. 


!i 


SALMON -FLIES. 


I 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTEATIONS. 


Niagara  Palls  from  Prospect  Park         ....         '^^"'^  ^***J 
The  American  Palls 


Luna  Falls  and  the  Rock  of  Ages  .... 

In  the  Thopsand  Isles 

Parliament  Buildings,  Ottawa  ... 
Timber  aitloat  at  the  Saw-mills,  Ottawa 

Long  Sault  Rapids 

Running  Lachine  Rapids 

Fort  Chamblt,  on  the  Richelieu  River  .... 

Citadel  at  Quebec  .... 

Cape  Gasp6        ..... 

GAspf  Residents  returning  from  Church 

PBBcfi  Rock 

The  Beach  at  Paspebiac,  and  View  of  the  Bay  . 

Valley  of  the  Metapedia    . 

A  Moose  Family      .... 

Curing  Fisk  at  Perc^    .... 

Caribou  Migration  .... 

Cape  Porcupine,  and  Cape  St.  George     ... 

The  Steamer  Stanley,  Prince  Edward  Island 

The  Oldest  House  in  Prince  Edward  Island        .       [ 

Old  Fireplace  at  Entry  Island 

The  Mail-boat  at  Prince  Edward  Island 

On  the  Road  to  Baddeck 

LouisBouRG  Memorial    ... 

St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  before  the  Fire  of  1892 

The  Monthly  Mail  Train  from  Hall's  Bay  to  Codroy 

Government  Houses  and  Town  Pumps  at  St.  Pierre  . 

Cape  Blomidon  .... 

Cape  Split  .       . 


The  Sault  Ste.  Marie  Ship  Canal  (View  of  the  Locks,  looking  toward 
Lake  Superior)   . 


8 

.   13 
.  44 
.  51 
.   52 
.   66 
.   58 
.   76 
.   87 
.  114 
.  117 
.  120 
123 
126 
146 
160 
168 
189 
192 
194 
198 
202 
210 
216 
230 
233 
237 
253 
255 


272 


■■■:'  .^:  -»v  ^^  ^i'S^"'^"' '"' 


'v.v^r^^^t^'?^^^  K, 


■•/■■■^f?^^f#l-^^  d 


vm 


LIST    OF    ILWJ8TRATION8. 


FAvlING   PAGE 

Sow  EiVKB  Valley  from  Upper  Hot  SpBiyo' 290 

The  Great  Glacier 801      ^ 

Indians  near  New  Westminster 306 

MAPS. 

Plan  of  Montreal 64 

The  GASpfi  Peninsula ...    115 

Belle  Isle  Strait 284 

Canadian  Salmon  Rivers  and  GAspfi  Basin 266 

Nbpigon  River  ......  274 

Rocky  Mountain  Park  of  Canada     .  291 

General  Map,  Province  of  Ontario  .  .       .  .In  Pocket. 

"  "      Province  of  Quebec " 

"  "       Maritime  Provinces " 

"  "      Northwestern  Canada     ..*...  " 


SALMON. 


801 
806 


.  64 

.  115 

.  284 

.  266 

.  274 

.  291 

Tn  Pocket. 

tt 

t( 


INTRODUCTION. 

The  dear  home  of  freemen  brave  and  true, 
And  loving  honor  more  than  ease  or  gold.' 

AoNEs  Maule  Machar. 

Strktchinc.  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  and  from  Lake  Erie  to 

States  aTdAr.  TT^  "  ""'''  '^^"""^  ^^^^^^^^  ^^an  the  United 
States  and  Alaska,  hes  the  great  dominion  to  which  the  name  of  Canada 

now  applies,  a  country  whose  peopk  are  engrossed  iu  the  work  of  na 

lon-makmg     Perhaps  nowhere  else  in  the  world,  at  this  present  day 

are  such  m.ghty  forces  stirring  to  such  gignntic  and  uncalcuiated  issues' 

^Wthm  a  decade  there  has  come  about  such  a  change  in  the  spirit  of 

th.  Canadian  people  that  outside  observers,  judging  from  data  of  toa 

IT?  'T"  '"''  ^f  *^''"''''*''  pathetically  astray  in  their  conclu- 
sions ;  for  the  name  of  Canada,  almost  in  a  day,  has  become  a  name  to 
conjur.  with,  from  corner  to  corner  of  this  confederation  which  we 
have  mo  ded  out  of  the  once  scattered  and  half-antagonistic  provinces 
of  British  North  America.    To  the  tourist  whose  interest  centers  chiefly 
m  men  in  mstit  '.'ons,  in  ethnological  and  political  problems,  this  coun- 
try  with  a  futur     nd  not  without  a  significant  past  offers  the  strongest 
possible  attractions.     To  those  who  look  for  magnificence  or  charm  of 
landscape,  for  an  invigorating  climate,  for  the  wholesome  relish  of  rod 
and  gun  and  paddle,  this  region  of  the  North  makes  no  less  active  ap- 
peal.    It.  deficiencies,  of  course,  are  those  of  all  new  countries-its 
fields  have  not  been  sown  thick  with  blood  and  tears,  its  cities  lack  the 
magic  of  inexhaustible  memories,  the  treasures  of  a  long-established 
cnvihzation.     One  city,  Quebec,  seems  old  to  us,  and  has  gathered  about 
tsdademof  ramparts  much  of  "the  light  that  never  was  o„  sea  or 
land    ;  but,  compared  with  Old  World  cities,  it  is  a  growth  of  yesterday 
The  section  of  Canada  which  is  here  designated  as  Eastern  Canada 
IS  in  the  mam  coextensive  with  old  Canada  and  Acadia.     The  rich  and 
populous  section  of  Ontario  .  in.h  lies  between- Lakes  Erie  and  Huron  is 

z':t:fi^fr2r''''' "  '"'^"'""  ^'^^^  '^^  ^^^*^^-"  ^«-- 

-.rontv.  torn-s  the  most  convemeut  center  from  which  to  start  west  or 


WUHI 1 1  IIM!«y|l*  "J"!  If  "I  ¥  'lll'ff^' 


m,'  .m  JiJJ''^'';*jj'  '  VlV.J'''i'''sU'4'.!|.'.*i?>!{i!!i;'^y^V*^"T.^^^^3^^ 


/" 


11 


If 


2  INTRODUCTION. 

east     The  term  Eastern  Canada  includes  a  large  section  of  Ontario, 
with  the  provinces  of  Quebec,  New  Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia,  and  Prince 
Edward  Inland.     Newfoundland,  and  that  part  of  Labrador  belonging 
to  Newfoundland,  though  not  attached  to  Canada,  are  touched  upon  m 
the  following  pages,  for  the  convenience  of  tourists  who  may  wish  to 
visit  them.    The  territory  to  be  described  may  most  conveniently  be 
covered  in  a  round  trip,  offering  abundant  choice  of  routes,  and  oppor- 
tunity for  attractive  side-trips  from  the  most  important  towns  along 
the  way      It  is  a  small  territory  compared  with  the  rest  of  the  Do- 
minion,  but  it  contains  the  bulk  of  the  population,  much  of  the  finest 
scenery  many  of  the  best  hunting  and  fishing  resorts,  and  nearly  all 
the  history,  tradition,  and  romance  which  combine  to  clothe  the  name 
of  Canada  with  something  like  a  savor  of  antiquity.     Here  was  the 
center  of  French  power  in  the  New  World,  and  here  was  fought  to  an 
end  the  contest  between  France  and  England.     About  Quebec  and 
Louisbourg,  Annapolis  and  Beausejour,  battled  the  Leopards  and  the 
Lilies  for  the  domihion  of  half  a  continent.    Quebec  is  still  mighty, 
the  gateway  to  Canada ;  but  at  Louisbourg  the  sheep  pasture  now  where 
stood  but  yesterday  a  great  stronghold,  the  "Dunkirk  of  America. 
There  broods  a  spell  of  mystery  and  romance  about  the  site  of  this 
obliterated  citv.     The  magnitude  and  the  heroism  of  the  struggle  for 
New  France  have  been  perpetuated  for  us  by  Farkman,  and  the  pathos 
of  its  termination,  as  represented  in  a  single  episode,  by  Longfellow. 

The  climate  of  the  St.  Lawrence  region  and  the  Maritime  Prov- 
inces  is  in  general  not  unlike  that  of  New  England.     The  climate  of 
Nova  Scotia,  in  particular,  is  neither  so  hot  in  summer  nor  so  cold  in 
winter  as  that  of  the  neighboring  New  England  States.     Summer 
tourists  will  need  to  make  such  provision  against  cool  evenings  and 
occasional  fog  as  they  would  make  if  visiting  the  seaside  resoits  of 
Maine      In  northeastern  Quebec  the  summers  are   often   chilly,  ana 
down  the  giant  funnel  of  the  Saguenay  there  blows  at  times,  m  mid- 
summer, a  wind  which  makes  the  snuggest  wraps  desirable.     As  for 
the  fo-s  that  sometimes  roll  in  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  one  may  escape 
them  by  a  jaunt  of  a  mile  or  two  into  the  interior,  or  face  them  and 
experience  the  miracle  which  they  will  work  on  dull  or  faded  complex- 
ions     It  is  to  the  benign  ministrations  of  the  fog  that  the  women  of 
the  Atlantic  seaboard  owe  the  bloom  and  freshness  of  their  faces. 

The  traveler  who  is  well  supplied  with  American  bank-notes  will 
fiad  DO  difficulty  with  the  currency.    American  bills  are  good  all  over 


.■mm^imi^ii£i.^j£,,i 


vr^^>^:i^^!!^''^a^/^^t!!!S^-^ 


INTRODUCTION.  g 

Canada.    American  silver,  except  in  the  border  commumties  is  liable 
to  a  heavy  discount,  and  in  some  places  will  be  refused  alC    her 
The  silver  coinage  of  Canada  is  uniform  for  the  whole  nit •  J 

with  this  the  tounst  sho.dd  keep  himself  well  supplld  """'  ^°' 

writX":"'  *''  "''"'""'"  '"  "'"'"^  P"-^^^^^^«'  ^  ^-^'^-^ 

chare 'hitetratit'^f'Se:  in  tTT'T"  ""°^™^'^'  ^«  «'"  P"- 
a  strong,  Englisriookin^mSpl?  nf  f '  f?-*'"^^''  «'"  "«"*'»^'  g^tling 
ada;  and  he"will  ave  «ftN  ncr  r^n.  n  ^""'"'^^T  "'«^''  ^«^*^"  '^  ^an^ 
Boston  or  New  Yo?k  It  s'^of  Zr,o  '  !  '""'^''  ""'^''^^  Purchased  in 
refer  to,  but  suits  made  to  oVferlTn^rV''"'^^'-'^"^'".  ^^«^^  *hat  we 
tweed,  durable  and  s^yli4  mav  he  lot  f  '''  «  '"'*  ^*  ^*^«*  ^'-^^^^ian 
to  120;  and  a  faultlel'd'eSn  ^f'tsri'e  ^^^^^^^  «>« 

of  the  smaller  towns,  such  as  Truro  nml  wS  •  xf  ^^^A  '"  ^"'"^ 
ful  tailors  who  have  learned  thX  f?^  Windsor,  ,n  Nova  Scotia,  skil- 
abreast  of  the  fashion  aTp«!  '^^  ^''''^'^^  ""^  '^^^'P  themselves 

taxes,  to  furnith'torugMv  s^a^freto^n^ul  ol  i°"  r^•^"^  ^'"•^" 
of  quiet  and  correct  imttern  for  J  ?    ^j!  'I"''  Canadian  tweed, 

n.ake  his  (or  her)  purd Lses  in  tIL  J  '""^"o"^  ^'""^  ^'"  "^  "^^^-^^ 
g.eat  furihops  s.iplv  IS  S>ods  in  va"^^^^^^^ 

prices  quite  unheaid-6f  in  American  cites      fn^?  ^^'*  quality,  at 

bark-  and  quill-work  etc  -aro  n.n.n^  I  .*  '^'''="  work-moccasins, 
the  chief  hotels  and  on  th7i.o^/°  ^^  purciiased  at  counters  in 
bazaars '  in  Mont"4rHa Hf'aT "K T^^^^^^^  T'  f/  ^""-^"^^  '  '"d^" 

a.;e  sold  in  the  quaint 'ofdhouiwhe.  en  ^hehnJv  ft?''  ^"^'^^'^^'^ 
laid  out."  wneiem  the  body  of  Montgomery  was 

win  find    he  be.t  of  travehng  facilities   and  accommodations     The 
various  railroad  and  steamboat  lines  bv  which  he  mav  make  th.  • 
ney  are  equipped  with  dl  modern  conveniences  •  anrtl  ho  'T 

c..es  above  named,  as  well  as  at  many  otheT^^es  ll  n^t t  To  te^ 
are  first  class  in  every  respect.  This  applies  equally  well  to  some 
of  t^e  side-trips  which  will  be  mentioned  in  the  follo/inrplges    bu 

comtr  r        ''':""  "■"  '^  *"^^^«^^'  -h-«  -  simifar  de!  ;e  o 
comfort  and  luxury  is  not  to  be  expected  " 

In  the  summer  season  round-trip  tickets  are  issued  from  New  York 


*  U  J.  'ML  J^ "  mUiSJiS^-  " ' 


•*4«#iM|iqp«4<«|IMfll 


^  INTRODUCTION. 

and  Boston  and  other  centers;  and  detailed  information  may  be  ob- 
tained at  the  railroad  and  nteamboat  agencies.  At  a  rough  CBtinrntc  .t 
niay  be  said  that  the  round  trip  from  Boston  or  New  York  by  way  of 
Niagara,  Toronto,  Montreal,  Quebec,  Saguenay,  Halifax,  and  St.  John, 
will  cost  f.om  $40  to  !j!56  in  fares,  according  to  choice  ol  routes. 

The  plan  of  the  book,  its  arrangement  and  classification  of  matter, 
and  the  system  of  treatment,  are  based  on  the  famous  Baedeker  Hand- 
books,  which  are  conceded  to  possess  in  a  pre-eminent  degree  the  grand 
desiderata  of  compactness,  portability,  and  facility  of  consultation.  As 
much  aid  as  possible  is  afforded  to  the  eye  by  printing  the  names  of 
places  and  objects  either  in  italics,  or,  where  they  are  of  sufficient 
importance,  in  large-faced  type.  ...        * 

The  very  rapid  growth  of  Western  Canada  since  the  completion  of 
the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  has  led  to  a  demand  for  information  con- 
cerning  that  section  of  the  Dominion.     The  traveler  or  tourist  who 
comes  from  abroad  must  now  cross  the  continent.     He  desires  to  see 
the  North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior  and  visit  the  famous  fishing-grounds 
of  Lake  Nepigon.     The  new  province  of  Manitoba  and  its  handsome 
capital  of  Winnipeg  claim  attention.      Then,  the  great  glaciers  aiid 
snowy  peaks  of  the  Rockies  are  full  of  interest  to  those  who  are  seek- 
ing for  the  beauties  of  Nature.     The  sportsman  will  desire  to  pause  at 
some  convenient  spot,  such  as  the  Rocky  Mountain  Park,  and  indulge 
his  taste  with  gun  or  rod.      Finally,  there  are  British  Columbia,  and 
Vancouver's  Island  on  the  beautiful  inland  sea  of  Puget  Sound.     As 
a  guide  or  handbook  of  these  and  other  equally  attractive  places  a  de- 
scription of  Western  Canada  has  been  added  to  this  edition  of  Apple- 
tons'  Canadian  Guide- Book. 


\^'^-.^i.^-N       ^^ 


^'^'^y^ra  Falls  frnn,  p,.,,,,,,,_ 


spett  Park. 


AIM^LETONS' 
CANADIAN   (JUfDK-BOOK. 


PROVINCE  OF  ONTARIO. 

Nlouai-a   Pal  In. 

Shall  not  NIagara'H  mighty  v<,ice 
i'lHplie  f„  action  hiKli  y 

'Twor(!oaHy  Huch  a  land  to  love, 
Or  for  her  glory  djo. 

K.  ().  Nelson, 

Trnvcling  i„  .|,M  „i,.„,u„„    ^11  *  ^iVT:'"''  "  ■■*''™  '''™«- 
opon  to  l,i,„,wil|,  ii,  clmrm  „    ll,        ,      ;     ■''"""'''"°°  ''■'"'"»'" 

may  bo  |)r„,,orl,  »„id  to  bo-i,,  '  ""*  '"•'"  "^  "-ip 

qimte  to  couvev  anv  in«f  ;.  ^'^""''cs-     Not  only  are  words  inado- 

eye  i..„,  onXi  r  b  rr;,::'^:;::''''"''"""""'"''  """"• 

No  one  c»„  bo  ,«id  to  b.vel«  t      KamU    f"'/"  ■»»«'"«»■-■ 
and  the,,  p„s8od  on     To  ,«tl  v  1„     I     T      ''°'  '"'""  •""  """^  '"»'' 

-c,  u.„  tbo  bo,  tba.  ,„oe.ed  L  owrritrixrof::::'' 

„        ,  "the  visible  scene 

Has  entered  unawares  into  his  mind, 
With  all  its  solemn  imagery." 

°  the  tounst,  u,.lo„  a  millionaire,  „.,  constrained  to 


6 


NIAGARA    FALLS. 


Krasp  hi.  purso-strinr  an.l  tU-e  fron.  tl.e  npot  with  the  Hmalle.t  po««t. 
blc  delay.  Now,  however,  all  that  i-  oha...;e.l,  and  on  the.ianad.an 
and  AnuTioan  Hide  alike  the  view  of  the  falln  is  free.  One  pay«  only 
for  Hueh  unessential  extras  as  erossin^  the  f.'rry  or  v.s...«K  The  (.ave 
of  the  Win.ls  behind  the  cataraet.  Tl.e  whole  n.ay  be  done  on  foot  or 
with  the  aid  of  the  street-carB  whieh  run  between  the  Whu'lt^^ol  and  the 
Falls,  and  Niagara  need  be  costly  to  none  but  those  who  des.re  to  n.ake 
it  80.  Cab  charRes  arc  regulat.'d  by  law,  and  hotel  rates*  are  much 
as  elsewhere,  varyiu'^  from  $1  to  *4  a  day. 

The  Falls  are  situated  on  the  Niagara  Kiver,  about  22  miles  from 
Lake  Erie  and  14  nnles  from  Ontario.     This  river  is  the  channel  by 
whieh  all  the  waters  of  the  four  great  upper  lakes  flow  toward  the 
(Julf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  has  a  total  descnt  of  ',VM  ft.,  leavu.g  Lake 
Ontario  still  231  ft.  above  the  sea.     Fr.m.  the  N.  E.  extrendty  of  Lake 
Erie  the  Niagara  flows  in  a  N.  direeticm  with  a  swift  current  for  the 
first  2  miles,  and  then  more  gently  wi.h  a  widening  current    w  nch 
.livides  as  a  portion  passes  on  each  side  of  Grand  Island.     As  these 
unite  below  the  island,  the  stream  spreads  out  to  2  or  »  nules  .n  w.dth 
and  appears  like  a  (piiet  lake  studded  with  small,  low  islands.     About 
16  ndles  from  Lake  Erie  the  current  becomes  narrow  and  begins  to  de- 
scend with  -reat  velocity.    This  is  the  commencement  of  The  Rapid8, 
which  continue  for  about  a  mile,  the  waters  accon.plishing  in  this  dis- 
tance  a  fall  of  52  ft.    The  Rapids  terminate  below  in  a  great  cataract, 
the  descent  of  which  is  164  ft.  on  the  American  side  and  158  ft  on  the 
Canadian.     At  this  point  the  river,  making  a  curve  from  W.  to  N 
spreads  out  to  an  extren.c  width  of  4,750  ft.,  en.bracmg  Goat  and  the 
Three  Sister  Islands.    Goat  Island,  which  extends  down  to  the  brink 
of  the  cataract,  occupies  about  one  fourth  of  this  space  leaving  the 
river  on  the  American  side  about  1,100  it.  wide,  and  on  the  Canadian 
side  about  double  this  width.    The  line  along  the  verge  of  the  Canadian 
Fall  is  much  longer  than  the  breadth  of  this  portion  of  the  river,  by 
reason  of  Its  horseshoe  form,  the  curve  extending  up  ..central  part 
of  the  current.     The  waters  sweeping  down  the  Bapui.H  Lorn.  a  grand 


*The  best  hotels  arc-on  the  American  side,  the  ProsjKct  House 
ine  ui.st  UUII.IO  c:„^«/.,...  finusc  and  KaltenhaciCs  ; 

is  ?y  ^o'  hour,  hut  it  is  usually  easy  to  arrange  special  tcims.    All  tolls 

arc  Tiai  i  oy  xl»e  traveler. 


NIAGARA   FALLS.  ^ 

curve  as  they  fall  dear  of  th..  rocky  wall  into  th„  . 

In  the  profound  chas...  holow  the  fal^  H  '^  ^""^  ''^  ^^'^  ^"«- 

to  leH.  than   1,000  ft  J    tin  'd  h' "'?""'' '""'^'^^''"'  '"  ^'''^h 

whirlpools  and  cd.lU     a"  u7t^::T""^'  '^'"'*'  ""^  ^--  ^^-^ 

-.ero.a.Uappear.ti:ir:;:-::-t^^^ 


Niagara  Falls  and  Vicinity. 


jards.     Tlic  nvei-  ll,„n  emerges  at 


8 


NIAGARA   FALLS. 


Lewiston  into  a  lower  district,  having  descended  i04  ft.  from  the  foot 

of  the  cataract. 

Here  at  Lewiston,  where  ends  the  gorge,  -vas  once  the  site  of  the 
cataract.  Instead  of  plunging  into  a  deep  chasm  and  hiding  its  grand- 
eur from  all  but  those  who  would  search  it  out,  the  gigantic  torrent 
rolled  in  fuU  view  of  the  world,  over  the  lofty  line  of  Queens- 
ton  Heights,  the  escarpment  of  the  high  plateau  of  the  upper  lakes. 
The  recession  of  the  Falls  to  their  present  point  is  thus  discusseu 
by  the  Duke  of  Argyll : 

FORMER  POSITION  OF  THE  FALLS. 

"A  very  curious  question,  and  one  of  great  scientific  interest, arises 
out  of  the  great  difference  between  the  course  of  the  Niagara  River 
above  and  below  the  Falls.     It  has,  in  my  opinion,  been  much  too 
Sv  assumed  bv  geologists  that  rivers  have  excavated  the  valleys  in 
AiJh  tSey  rin     Th^  cutting  power  of  water  is  very  gieat,  but  it  vanes 
Tn  pro,  ortln  to  the  liability  c>f  floods,  and  the  wearing  power  of  stones 
Sat  mavbe  canicd  along;  much  also  depends  on  the  position  ot  the 
rocks  over  which  a  river  runs.     If  the  st,-ati  Scation  present  edges 
whidi  are  easilv  attacked  or  undermined,  even  a  gentle  stream  may  cut 
7anid  V  f or  it  elf  a  deeper  bed.     On  the  other  hand,  when  the  rocks  do 
S  eKPOse  anv  surfaces  which  arc  ea.ily  assailable,  a  very  large  body 
0    wa^^er  mav  run  over  them  for  ages  without  being  able  to  scoop  out 
more  thin  a  few  feet  or  even  a  few  inches.     Accordingly,  such  is  actu- 
X  the  case  with  the  Nia-^ara  River  in  the  upper  part  of  its  course  from 
Se  Erie  to  the  Falls.    In  all  tb.  ages  durig  which  it  has  run  into 
tint  course  for  15  miles  it  has  rot  been  able  to  ren.ove  more  than  a 
few  feet  of  soil  or  rock.     The  country  is  level  and  the  banks  are  very 
ow  so  low  that  in  looking  up  the  bed  of  the  stream  the  more  distant 
tree's  on  I'  cr  bank  seen?  to  vise  out  of  the  water.     But  suddenly  in 
t,e  middle  of  the  comparatively  level  country  the  mcr  cnco»nt«rs^  a 
p  eci  ierand  thencefonvard  for  1  miles  runs  through  a  profound  clef 
oi-'avlne'the  bottom  of  which  is  not  less  than  300  ft.  below  the  genera 
?ev^l  of  the  country.     How  came  that  precipice  to  be  there  .^     This 
w^u  d  be  no  puzzle'at  all  if  the  precipice  were  Joined  with  a  sudden 
change  in  the  general  level  of  the  country  ou  either  side  of    he  rl^J-- 
and  there  is  such  a  change— but  it  is  not  at  the  Pal  s.     It  is  7  miles 
Cthe   on.     At  the  Falls  "there  is  no  depression  in  the  general  level 
of  the  banks.     Indeed,  on  the  Canadian  shore,  the  and  rises  very  con- 
s  dembU  just  above  the  Falls.     On  the  American  shore  it  contmues  at 
the  same  Jlevation.     The  whole  country  here,  however,  is  a  table-land, 
anddattaSand  has  a  termlnation-an  edge-over  which  the  river 
must   a  1  before  it  can  reach  Lake  Ontario.     But  that  edee  does  not  run 
Tco^s  the  country  at  Niagara  Falls,  but  along  a  line  much  nearer  to 
?   1     n     .,.;     whiro  it  i-^  a  con-ni-nnus  feature  in  the  landscape,  and 
Sw  Qa^nsJoriloi^htrThe  „a.«™U.l«ee,  the 


il'.A*^ 


4.   , 


°\T-'7'''WPf5 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


9 


fi^tnTtt'JZ'l^TsZlteVr!''  "'''  "™«  ^  ">a.  edge  .„a 
backward  in  the  course  ottLl     2-  %P<^'>™nce  of  haviof'  cut  K'  ^„ 

would  have  taken  35,000  years   oy^'^  ^''^''-     ^*  thi«  rate  the  1^^ 
the  present  position  ^f  thSs '''^''*  "^  '''"•'-'  '^om  Queensto™ 

For  a  detailed  descrinfinn  ^*  *u 
M.  .he  .o„ri,.  „a,  dcpVd„:Vn'e7;r™- '"'',"'  """^''  "  *^ 
""■■ch  go  into  particular,  h  a  way  IhV,  "'  '~'  8'"<l<^->><'ok», 

»"ch  range  as  the  present     rle  «?'  """  ""' '"' ''™'  '"  »  "*  ° 
fro™  Appletons.  General  G™de    .  n    :'"°"  "■''"  ""''""'•  "'"•'''"^d 

crossed  constantly  by  tcavilvl»i  "'"'■'  P'^*""^'  "«*<!.  and    s 

fr»n.  the  bridge  i' one t,    'e  1*"  "T"-  /"^  ™"  "^  «'-  4d 
Boener,.    Below  the  bridge,  a    tad   ."'  'T"^'  '"'  '"«  W»S»™ 
American  Falls,  is  Ch,pi,Js  island     „'!  ""  ""'^'^  "'  '"» 

man  who  fell  )„.„  .^e  sLeam  whTle'a  w „  ,        T  ""'"""^  "'  "  "»*- 
on  this  isle,  and  was  rescued  by  a  m'  rI   °°  ""'""«''■    ""  '"^S-^" 
ta  «cuc  in  a  skiff.    About  „id,y„  T.T'!'  """'  ^"""""-^  «»'  "> 
Bath  Wand.    A  short  walk  b  i„Is  us  ,     ,,     7™  ""'  ~''  """"':'' 
I-»a  Island,  a  huge  ™ck.n,ass  „TCe  .  l''!  'T"'""''  '""'"^  «° 
between  the  Center  Fall,  and  11,/  ,°   ".""'o  1"Mer,  ot  an  acre,  lying 
rainbows  seen  at  .his  poin"  wh  n'  hT'Z    -"^  „  '"^  «^"W'->  '-naf 
naxK  i.  bears.    J„s,  beyond  Lu„,. 7    ."  "  '""'  '"""=  Sivcn  it  the 
"Biddle-s  Stairs,"  after  ICholat  BHdt'  ?  ■""™'  '*""™-'  '-"^^ 
by  "hose  order  they  were  buil  U    1     '       ^"""^  ^"""^  "ank  fame 
*e  '00.  of  the  s.ai;  wUe  "      '  eeld  tT'  "l  ""'  "■''"■    ^™""' 

«;-es  an,  wa.e';:„Ts:r  fr:;:;:L':r  '-* "  "■•'  '»''-»"'• 

the  s.airs  (fee,  t,.5o),  and  the  c™     "f  n '  "'•  '"'  °''"""'"'  »' 

-pass  safely  i„.„  ^^c  recess  brnThJ  ..::'.""""■.  ™""t'-     ^«" 
Mas'cai  rainbow  pictures  are  found  ;,,k-  '"  *  '"""'""'  '>'>y»"' 

etounda.  .h,sspot;so,ne(imesl>ows„f 


10 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


entire  circles  and  two  or  three  at  once  are  seen.    A  plank-walk  has 
been  carried  out  to  a  cluster  of  rocks  near  the  foot  of  the  fall,  and 
fr-om  it  oiK  of  the  best  views  of  the  American  Falls  may  be  obtained. 
The  up-river  way,  along  the  base  of  the  cliff  toward  the  Horseshoe 
Falls,  is  difficult  and  much  obstructed  by  fallen  rocks.     It  was  from  a 
point  near  Biddle's  Stairs  that  the  renowned  jumper,  Sam  Patch,  made 
two  successful  leaps  into  the  water  below  (in  1829),  saying  to  the 
throng  of  spectators,  as  he  went  off,  that  "one  thing  might  be  done  as 
well  a^s  another."     Reascending  the  stairs,  a  few  minutes'  walk  along 
the  summit  of  the  cliff  brings  us  to  a  bridge  leading  to  the  islet  on 
which  stood  the  famous  Terrapin  Tower,  which  having  become  danger- 
ous was  blown  up  with  gunpowder  in  1873.     The  view  of  the  Horse- 
shoe Falls  from  this  point  is  surpassingly  grand.     It  was  estimated  by 
Lyell  that  1,500,000,000  cubic  feet  of  water  pass  over  the  ledges  every 
hour.     One  of  the  condemned  lake-ships  (the  Detroit)  was  sent  over 
this  fall  in  1829;  and,  though  she  drew  18  ft.  of  water,  she  did  not 
touch  the  rocks  in  passing  over  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  showing 
that  the  water  is  at  least  20  ft.  deep  above  the  ledge. 

At  the  other  end  of  Goat  Island  (reached  by  a  road  from  the  Horse- 
shoe Falls),  a  series  of  graceful  bridges  leads  to  the  Three  Sisters,  as 
three  small  islets  Iving  in  the  Rapids  are  called.     On  Goat  Island,  near 
the  Three  Sisters,  is  the  Hermit's  IJathing-place,  so  called  after  Francis 
Abbott,  "  The  Hermit  of  Niagara,"  who  used  to  bathe  here,  and  who 
finally  drowned  while  doing  so.     At  the  foot  of  Grand  Island,  near  the 
Canada  shore,  is  Naw  Island,  which  was  the  scene  of  some  interestmg 
incidents  in  the  Canadian  Rebellion  of  1837-'38,  known  as  the  Macken- 
zie  War.     It  was  near  Schlosscr  Landing,  about  2  miles  above  the  Falls, 
on  the  American  side,  that  during  the  war  the  American  steamer  Caro- 
line, which  had  been  perverted  to  the  use  of  the  insurgents,  was  set 
on  th-e  and  sent  over  the  Falls  by  the  order  of  Sir  Allan  McNab,  a 

Canadian  officer. 

The  State  of  Xew  York  purchased,  in  1885,  the  property  bordermg 
the  Falls,  and  laid  out  Niagara  Park,  to  be  controlled  by  a  State  Com- 
mission, empowered  to  remove  all  obstructions  to  the  view,  and  to  im- 
prove the  grounds.  No  charge  is  made  for  admission  to  Niagara  Park. 
A  "  vertical  railwav,"  running  on  a  steep  incline,  leads  from  the  park 
to  the  base  of  the  cliff;  and  from  its  foot  the  river  may  be  crossed  in 
ti.e  steamboat  the  Maid  of  the  Mist.  The  passage  across  the  river  is 
perfectly  safe,  and  is  worth  making  for  the  very  fine  view  cf  the  Falls 


NIAGAKA  FALLS.  .^ 

obtained  in  mid-stroam      \     •  a- 

«"e  landing  „„  «,e  c„„.«.„  liUe  "/.ret^'Tl"  "''"■'"' '-"'  f™™ 
ton  House.  By  di,„bi„g  ove  ,1  '  1  '.t  "  """■  "*"'  ""  Clif- 
American  side  (,„rn  .„  .?,„  fef.  T  .eH^ "'  '*'■  "-r"  °'  *"  ""«  »»  the 
■»t  maj.  pe„„„«,e  .„  a  point  w  ,.  1   ,!  '"/  ""  ™"""^''  "«  '»-•. 

get  what  is  pe,h,p,,  on  ,1,"  Jht"  *; ''"f  »'  '"^  A™*,n  Fa,,,  „„, 

The  ns„al  way  of  cros,  „!^  I,      """''  ""  <"  '' ""  »«  l-d- 
Suspension  BHdge,  wh  eT  at  e    tte     "  f  ''  °'»^  '"^  "- 
mile  below  ae  Falls,  Ind  i,  one  of  ,1,       "'"■'"^'"  "-e  eighth  of  a 
.'".•pedestrians,  250.,.'    I-  JL    "n"  L'^J^f '^  "^  *e  loeality  (fee 
'•'  1,1»0  ft,  from  cliff  to  cliff  l  268  ftf        .     '  "'  '  """"  "'  ^''M-Wi 
above  the  ..i.e.,  and  it  was'  Sid    nTs  :";,'"  '""^''  '""  ■"»  "' 
th^tmeture  being  replaced  by  i™n     i"  T^-fT  ""*"  P""'  "' 
of  Jannary  ,0,  ,889,  but  has  been  rebu  U     Tir,""      '"'  "^  '"^  «»'« 
'"'ie  .»  too  ft.  high,  and  that  on  the  Can ;.         T"  ""  "'"  •*™*a" 
the  left  from  the  brid-e  termiL        ,      ?    '"'  "*  '»'  "•    A  road  to 
views  of  .h„  .       ■     "    t"™"""'  leads  a  ong  the  eliff  .«■   j- 
views  of  the  American  and  Center  Fall,      .    i        .    '  '■"'"*'"«  good 

t«race  near  the  Falls  is  the  sn„r-HM      „  .  t°''' *"™'=  "''°™  the 
immense  overhanging  ph.,:  J:;'»«'  ^'We  Reek,  though  the 

«mce  fallen  over  the  precipice     F^ZH-  "^  """  """« !>»»  '""g 

">e  Falls  is  obtained, 'ndThr.  of  Zp      "t""  "^  ''^''  '-»'  ™w  o1 
grand.    The  concuss  on  of  the  f.l,in„     ?  '°''  '^'"'  ''  '"""""Pa-'ably 
below  produces  a  spray  that  veilf ft"!  !       '  """  '"""^ '»  "«'  '''-"pths 
Above  this  impenetraWe  fclrl ,'  b     r'  "™  '""'''  ""  ''»  ""'"«■ 
*"d  of  lighter  .spray  rises  which  wbe'°;'       '"  "•  """'^  *"  J""",  a 
P~por  direction,  display    'n,?„^i:'?"  '"  '""  ^'""^^  "l»»  it  in  the 
Priateness  of  the  name  Nia  ^1 ,'  ^  ,  T  J"""""-      '"'"'  «PP-^ 
drat  here.    At  Table  R„..  I   *   Thunder  of  Waters")  is  verv  evi 

'o.'  .he  .a4t'  nr;7e  H^zr-''''^,^"""  ".ir-pr::;^„t 

passage  (which  no  nervous  pe™""".?,       '!'  ""'  '""■>•     ■""» 

ows  by  a  writer  in  Picturesque  I    ,ea    ■  Th'e""^  ''I  '""*'"  "'  ^»'- 

»a™w  and  steep,  but  perfectly  »!•  ,'  ,  "'"°"'™  '""''■"«■"  are 

«»  to  the  bottom.    Here  we  1   !  '         f  """P'"  "^  "=i°'"e»  brings 

l>a.dly  begun  to  traverse  the  p'tllrri"'  '""^'^''^  '^  «  i""" 
»"h  a  mischievous  sweep  LTT'  !      °''™  "'''»  »'  »'■»!»  when 
'ion.  and  fairly  inundZ'u"  Z  It'  '  '""^  ^'""-"'•'  '"  °"  Oi- 
dering  noises  of  the  falling' watrs  ^'°"' ^''"'"''  ""h  "'"^  <*""■ 

P«'h«^  i.  broad,  and  the  wal  t  e'a,:""""  ""^  °'"'  ""'•  -  '!>« 
there  '"^  n-+i  •       -  '"'*"iR  easv,  new.po!Por°  '^••-  -    ■  *      ,- 

^  '°  nothing-  m  it.     The  tall    «foi       .     -^"•"^-  «'^-  ^in  to  think 

tall,  stalwart  negro,  who  acts  as  guide 


Tf^j  »;,  wp J-,-};  Ji  w. 


12 


NIAOARA   FALLS. 


listens  with  amusement  to  such  comments,  and  confidently  awaits  a 
change  in  the  tone  of  the  scoffers.  More  and  more  arched  do  the 
rocks  become  as  we  proceed.  The  top  part  is  of  hard  limestone,  and 
the  lower  of  shale,  which  has  been  so  battered  away  by  the  fury  of  the 
waters  that  there  is  an  arched  passage  behind  the  entire  Horseshoe 
Fall,  which  could  easily  be  traversed  if  the  currents  of  air  would  let 
us  pass.  But,  as  we  proceed,  we  begin  to  notice  that  it  blows  a  trifle, 
and  from  every  one  of  the  32  points  of  the  compass.  At  first,  how- 
ever, we  get  them  separately.  A  gust  at  a  time  inundates  us  with 
spray ;  but  the  farther  we  march  the  more  unruly  is  the  Prince  of  Air. 
First,  like  single  spies,  come  his  winds;  but  soon  they  advance  like 
skirmishers ;  and,  at  last,  where  a  thin  colunm  of  water  falls  across 
the  path,  they  oppose  a  solid  phalanx  to  our  eiforts.  It  is  a  point  of 
honor  to  see  who  can  go  farthest  through  these  corridors  of  Jilolus.  It 
is  on  record  that  a  man,  with  an  herculean  effort,  once  burst  through 
the  column  of  water,  but  was  immediately  thrown  to  the  ground,  and 
only  rejoined  his  comrades  by  crawling  face  downward,  and  digging 
his  hands  into  the  loose  shale  of  the  pathway.  Prof.  Tyndall  has 
gone  as  far  as  mortal  man,  and  he  describes  the  buffeting  of  the  air  as 
indescribable,  the  effect  being  like  actual  blows  with  the  fist." 

Termination  Rock  is  a  short  distance  beyond  Table  Rock,  at  the 
verge  of  the  fall.  The  spray  here  is  blinding,  and  the  roar  of  waters 
deafening. 

Below  the  Falls  are  several  points  of  interest,  which  are  best  vis- 
ited on  the  American  side.  The  first  of  these  is  the  old  Suspension 
Bridge,  which  spans  the  gorge  2  miles  below  the  Falls,  and  supports 
railway-tracks,  a  roadway,  and  footways.  The  bridge  is  245  ft.  above 
the  water,  and  supported  by  towers  on  each  bank,  the  centers  of  which 
are  821  ft.  apart.  It  was  built  in  1855  by  the  late  John  A.  Roebling, 
and  cost  $300,000.  The  fee  for  crossing  the  bridge  is  25c.  for  pedes- 
trians, which  confers  the  right  to  return  free  on  the  same  day.  From 
one  side  of  this  bridge  a  fine  distant  view  of  the  Falls  is  had,  and 
from  the  other  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  seething,  tumultuous  Whirl- 
pool Rapids.  Three  hundred  feet  above  may  be  seen  the  new  Jlichi- 
gan  Central  R.  R.  Cantilever  Bridge.  By  descending  the  elevator, 
which  leads  from  the  top  to  the  baee  of  the  cliff  near  the  site  of  the 
old  Monteagle  House,  a  nearer  view  is  obtained  of  these  wonderful 
rapids,  in  which  the  vvaters  rush  along  with  such  velocity  that  the  mid- 
dle of  the  current  is  30  ft.  higher  than  the  sides.     Three  miles  below 


iwaits  a 
do  the 
>ne,  and 
y  of  the 
jrseshoe 
ould  let 
a  trifle, 
st,  how- 
US  with 
!  of  Air. 
oce  like 
i  across 
point  of 
(lus.  It 
through 
ind,  and 
digging 
lall  has 
le  air  as 


£,  at  the 
f  waters 

best  vis- 
ipension 
supports 
t.  above 
»f  which 
oebling, 
r  pcdes- 
Frcm 
lad,  and 
Whirl- 
w  Jlichi- 
jlevator, 
e  of  the 
jnderful 
the  mid- 
:s  below 


Luna  Falls  and  Rock  of  Ages. 


18 


ver. 


NIAGARA   TO   TOKOXTO. 
tlic  Falls  is  the  Whirl nn«I 

From  Niagara  to  Toronto. 

«ho  .ive,.  bank  below  .l,e  "  p      tl   bl     '    °'  '""  '"""'  -'  ">■  ™»  «» 

»i"Sle,  *2.«r,;  ,.„„„,,  fJ^'t^T^TT    "-"'"■'■■o«e(farc., 
t'mity  of  ,,cc.i„g,h„,  ,„„..,„•„  ;,,ii,:  ""  '°"8'"'.  ""-""to  an  o„„o,.. 

by  the  .ivor  ,.„„.e  (fa,.,  ,i  ^,o  t°  r/,"'  "";"'"""■  "  "-  »»» 
boautlc,  of  ,he  Niagara  .11^,,^  !„  '  ?'"'  *'■'"''  ""'  "<"<  "'» 
Q»c.on.„on  Ileig,,,,,  an,l  the  H  L"""™'  "'  <'""""".  ">'•  "o.ied 
the-Lakc,  beoiJe,  onjovlng  a  ctl  1  '"T''  """'"  °'  N'asara-on. 
of  Ontario.  '    "      '°°'  ""'  "'  ■">  "'"es  across  the  waters 

Tllii  WATER  ROUTE. 

i.i.n"'T:^*i;t™tF:;;:' ""t  •"'  '"^■"^■'  "■«"■''«  """«-<, 

C™.™1  .0  NiagaLon^b    Lt    ::L  crV'"'"  '^>- ">"  «-«.- 
American  .bore  ,„.  ,be  ^T„„  y"  ™  '  !  ?"'"'"  '''''<^'  ^  "'""S  the 
'  "!!«  fron,  the  ,„on.l,  where  ™t  n  T  ,  '°  ""  '"""'  "'  I'"^^"'". 
Of  .i.o  "Niagara  River  U„   •  „,a"  r      ""=  ""^  «>*■'"-"'  »'™".er 
t.n,e.,  each  day.     A  verv  nonnl  !  ''?"'>-«"">»  «cro..s  the  lake  four 

Qaeen».on  on'.be  Ni^garr'n     rT  "  "^  ■''»""  f™- Toronto   „ 
;<;a.ara  K„„.,  P„,„  ,„",  ^.t^'j^      ^  --«'-n  i.,  n,a„e  with  ,he 

"•e  :•!«,.  ,0  ebe  cataract  and  tl  .    i  Le  o    n"        °"°"'  '"'  ""^ 
.l-nd.     This  line  i,  ,„  |„y  ■"  ™  "S^  "f  Ch.ppewa,  three  n,ilc., 

'"'-esting  .rip_,h,  changi!  ::„".":!  '"  "",  ">"  •-'  ""«  of  thi. 

phases  of  the  river  itself,  the  „5,i  IpoJl  "°     "  """•  ""  '  ••"■)"•"? 

by  the  .stretch  of  „„ie,  vater    "Id    h  ""•"°  '  V"'""' """  •^"<^'««"'^ 
smniounted  by  Broek\  l.i ..        ,         '       "■'""■  <>'  Q-'e^ston  Hei"hts 

aPP.oaeh  to  L  ^^  Z:!:^  Z^T'' "" '"""""-'  "^'^^^ 
the  Horschoe  Falls  and  nZt,  """'""  *'""'•  «°at  Island,  and 
-If-    Tho  ears  „n  t  n"  re  i  „ '''  T  "7  °'  ""  ''""""S  -•».■»«  it- 

^•'"oted  that  every  Passr^^^rlls  a  e,c7    r"''^'  "'''''•  '"■»  '"  -"" 
Menery  on  either  side.  ''°''  ™''l>»'™cted  view  of  the 


14 


NIAGARA   TO   TORONTO. 


The  New  York  Central  vims  through  The  Ciorge  itself,  along  a 
ledge  whleh  has  been  carved  out  of  the  face  of  the  cliff.  Above  towers 
the  beetling  front  of  rock,  and  far  below  thunders  the  tremendous  tor- 
rent. In  the  gorge  of  Niagara  the  water  does  not  flow,  or  rush,  or  dart, 
but  it  bounds  and  bursts  as  if  belched  forth  from  some  hidden  vt)lcano. 
Presently  the  mad  flood  is  caught  and  enchained  for  a  time  in  the  sul- 
len vortex  of  the  Whirlpool.  Of  this  unmvthieal  Maelstrom  one 
catches  a  thrilling  glimpse  from  the  cnv  window.  Then  the  gorge  nar- 
rows again  ;  and  plunging  through  short  tunnels,  swerving  dizzily  on 
its  airy  shelf,  round  jutting  peaks,  the  roiid  threads  the  windings  of 
the  abyss,  gradually  descending,  till  it  comes  out  upon  the  lower  level 
at  Lewiston.  Here  is  the  head  of  navigation,  and  at  the  dock,  to  the 
side  of  which  the  railway  has  now  been  extended,  the  toiu'ist  steps  or 
board  the  steamers.  The  river  rests  here  in  a  great,  slow-reeling  eddy. 
In  this  eddy  the  steamer  turns,  and  is  grateful  for  the  service  of  the 
revolving  current. 

Opposite  Lewiston  rise  Queenston  Heights,  the  most  famous 
battle-field  of  the  War  of  1812.  Here,  for  an  autumn  day,  three 
(juarters  of  a  century  ago,  raged  a  bitter  struggle  between  the  Ameri- 
can and  Canadian  forces,  resulting  at  length  in  victory  for  the  (Cana- 
dians, who  paid  too  dear  for  their  triumph,  however,  with  tic  death  of 
their  heroic  leader,  General  Sir  Isaac  Brock.  May  it  prove  an  augury 
of  perpetual  peace  and  good-will  along  these  frontiers  that  when,  two 
days  after  the  battle.  General  Brock  was  being  buried  in  one  of  the 
bastions  of  Fort  George,  minute-guns  were  fired  from  the  American 
Fort  Niagara  across  the  river,  as  a  tribute  of  respect  to  their  illustri- 
ous adversary ! 

On  the  summit  of  the  Heights  stands  the  monument  which  has 
been  erected  in  memory  of  the  favorite  hero  of  Canadians.  This  is 
the  second  monument  erected  on  the  spot,  the  earlier  and  smaller  one, 
built  by  a  grant  from  the  Provincial  Parliament  in  1824,  having  been 
blown  up  in  1840  by  a  scoundrel  named  Lett.  The  new  monument 
was  erected  by  the  voluntary  contributions  of  the  militia  and  Indian 
warriors  of  Canada.  It  is  a  massive  stone  structure  190  it.  in  height, 
19  ft.  higher  than  Nelson's  Column  in  Trafalgar  Square.  At  the  top, 
beneath  a  colossal  statue  of  Brock,  is  a  gallery  reached  by  235  steps. 
Standing  on  this  gallery  one  sees  unroll  before  him  a  matchless  pano- 
rama, of  battle-field  and  vineyard,  of  cataract  and  quiet  stream,  of 
dark  wood  and  stcepled  villages  and  breadths  of  peach-orchard,  and 


NIAGARA   TO   ToJiONTO. 


15 


fortresses  no  lonirer  hoqfi1«.  „.  i  r 

t».e  s.„oke  of  tho^reat'c^Cl  ::;;;:-  '^  ^'"^  ^^^^  "^  Ontario 

From  Lewiston  to  Nia'aZ    1     r     Z  '"'  "''^  ''''' 
rapidly  between  high,  .oode/ C's;  l^'  '7  """  ^^^  ^  -'- 
fortuble  ho.nes.     If  the  tourist     as  ;ta'       ""'      '"''"'''  ""  """ 
Michigan  Central  U.  R.  ..^es  ll  U  .■      ' to  V "     "  '"'""''"  ^^'•''^''  '''« 
••«>;te,  as  it  winds  down  the  si.le  ,;\  ''".^^^''^''-^'-t'.e-Uke.     This 
Wide  range  over  the  fertile  Nia-^ura  niail    T'n  ^''^'''''f""^"^  S-'ves  a 
gardens  and  vineyards,  and  a  s  o  Idt       "       '"  *''^'- S'ory  of  peaeh 
and  Crock's  n.on.unen  .     J,     u  "^^  "^'^'^  "''  <^"-nston  If'.VM, 
•"uch  less  pictnrcs„„e  as  it       1?  '^.^"'^"-^'-^^^'J  that  it  i:  ,, 

to  the  American  si,,e.  ''' '  ^""^""^"^  ^^^^n  that  b,  crossing 

:<>^^^^:^t^l:::!:::^^^^  ^---  -^  p-pies  wer^ 

A.nericans  and  Canadians  have  ::,     'r''^;,      "''' "^'  ^^"^'^^•' 

Lake  regions,  wi.ere  the  first  I'arlian   n  to    I       1"  ""'^'"""""^  '^^  ^''^ 
Canada  was  held  in  ancestral  fl     Ih   .    ''j'  ''  ^"'^^'"^^  «f  ^Jpper 
-  now  but  a  merr,  watering-p,;;      "j  "    '"  '''t  ""'  ^  ^P-«^-«  oak, 
t>eld  of  Lundy^s  Lane,  the  sTene  o   .      "^f'^^'-hood  is  the  battle- 
Canadian  and  American  forces    The  ci/T'"""'*  ^^'"^^"^  '-'^--n 
-n-face  of  Niagara's  sun.mer  Jalm  are   h^f  ^Tf"  '^''  """  '^^''-  "»« 
the  Queen's  Royal  Hotel,  which  a  1  atten  1    ^T1''  "''^"'"^  '-'-  «t 
from  Fort  Niagara  opposte    '  '  f ' '""""^^^  V  the  American  officers 
The  country  rfund  1^^  ^1'^'^''^''' '''''''  ''^^'  ^--ti: 
be  had,  and  the  facilities  for  boatt^J^^^^^^^     capital  bass-fishing  to 
In  the  days  of  its  political  and  m  Uta  I  in       f  '"  "'*  *"  ''  ''^'^^^^' 
'"ore  business-like  name  of  Newark     ^  '"^Portance  the  town  bore  the 

The  run  across  from  Niagara  toTnr.  . 
-d  in  the  tourist  season  tlL°    ke  is  ZaM  ""'''"  ^'""*  *^^«  ^--^ 
tario,  however,  is-  ISO  miles  lo  !    „       b:^;;""^'""^^'-     ^^  ^ake  On-' 
possesses  every  facility  for  an  oc. «  in     ,  '"  "'^''^'^^  "^''^^dth,  it 

proportions.     The  Chico.  a       Z^""^  ,t?/  ^^-e  Atlan'tic 
'o^.ever,  are  Clyde-built  oeean-goit  enft  of  L  f'T  ^'"^  ^'■-'" 
lar  service  in  all  weathers  le'iyL.L!       ^''''  ^"^  "'^'"tain  regu- 
^^••^0  ..  ..,  12  noon,  and  '5  40  p  "m    aid  n"  "'"'  ^"'-^''^^'  ''  '  -  -> 
hour  later.     There  are  officers  of  the  A^  ^  ^^ara-on-the-Lake  half  an 


16 


jriAOARA    TO   TORONTO. 


;  I 


lines  of  Canada  and  America.     Returning  f'-ainern  leave  Toronto  1 
A.  M.,  1 1  A.  M.,  2  P.  M.,  and  4.45  »'.  M. 

THE  JOURNEY  BY  THE  (J  RAN  I)  TRUNK   R.   R. 
If  one  chooses  to  go  by  land  around  the  head  of  the  lake  his  way 
lies  through  a  fair  country.     The  Grand  Trunk   Ry.   runs  from  the 
Falls  to  Hamilton,  wiunce  the  Great  Western  division  of  the  same 
road  carries  the  traveler  eastward  tt)  Toronto.     A  few  miles  west  of 
Niagara  is  Merritton,  where  the  railway  plunges  into  a  tunnel  which 
leads  it  under  the  Welland  (.'anal.     Menitton  is  otherwise  known  as 
Thorold  Station,  as  it  is  there  that  passengers  leave  the  train  for  the 
little  town  of  Thorold  on  the  canal.     In  this  neighborhood  is  the  bat- 
tle-field of  Beaver  Dams,  which  Canadians  regard  with  pardonable 
pride.     During  the  War  of  IHl'i,  when  the  Americans  were  in  posscB- 
yion  of  Fort  George  and  Niagara  and  the  Rritish  troops  had  fallen  back 
on  Burlington  (now  Ilaunlton),  the  British  general  advised  the  Canadian 
vohintcers  to  disband  and  return  to  their  homes,  as  he  was  contemplating 
the  possibility  of  abandoning  all  that  section  of  the  province  to  the  foe 
and  retiring  to  Kingston.     In  this  crisis,  being  thrown  entirely  upon 
their  own  resources,  the  Canadians  proved  themselves  equal  to  the 
emergency.     What  followed  has  been  thus  described  by  Miss  Louisa 
Murray :  "  Merritt's  militia  regiment  of  light  horse,  with  some  other 
militiamen  and  volunteers,  established  themselves  at  a  building  known 
as  '  De  Cew's  stone  house,'  converting  it  into  a  little  fortress,  whence 
they  harassed    the    Americans,   driving   off   their   foraging    parties, 
and  intercepting  their  supplies,  with  such  success  and  impunity  as 
only  an  intimate  knowledge  of  the  country  could  have  given  them. 
Colonel  Boerstler  was  sent  from  Niagara  with  two  field-pieces  and  600 
men  to  break  up  this  little  stronghold,  and  one  or  two  other  outposts 
of  the  British,  who,  since  the  decisive  battle  of  Stony  Creek,  were 
moving  back  toward  Fort  George,  and  he  might  have  succeeded  but 
for  the  patriotic  spirit  and  bravery  of  a  woman.     Laura  Secord,  the 
young  wife  of  James  Secord,  a  militiaman  lying  wounded  at  Queens- 
ton,  saw  the  American  troops  moving   from   Niagara,  and,  learning 
their  destination,  set  out  at  night,  and  walked  twenty  miles  through 
the  woods  to  warn  the  little  band  at  the  stone  house  of  Boerstler's  ap- 
proach.    At  any  time  it  would  have  been  a  difficidt  journey,  but  in  war 
time,  with  the  risk  of  meeting  some  savage  Indian  or  other  lawless 
marauder  in  thQ  lonely  woods,  only  a  woman  of  singular  energy  and 


NIAGARA   TO   TOUONTO. 


courag,.  «.ouI.|  have  ..n<l,.,tak,.n  it      Mrs  S.       i  , 

o'clock  la  the  n.orni.u^  he  JJlT  "'""'  "'  "''"^•'"'  ^"'"h  at  « 

Hccn  through  the  thick  foha^.e  of  ,' "  '"" -^^"''^"""-'•l  trehled  w.u.„ 
poured  volley  after  voliev/ronrthoi  ^  *'*'*'''•  ^'•""'  """>"g  whieh  they 
dered  An.eHcanH,  ever/  oZ  '  '"  "'"  T  ""  ^'"  •^•"■'"'-"^  "-^  l>-il- 
dian«.  While  B^erstl  /wa  'nt,  ^"r.'  "^  ^''«  «--  .V^""^  of  the  In. 
fvat,  Ensign  Fitzgibhon  luh  4  ?  •  ""  "''''''''■  ^"  "''^""^•^  or  ro- 
neighborhood,  ar Hved  I  t  r':^?!  ^"f  -">•  ^"•^•^"  droops  in  the 

With  admirable  eoun.ge  and  col  J,  T,  "^  ''''  '•^'"^^•""  •»'  ""^-o- 
•"-ket,  and,  holding  i!  up  ad  vat  '  "  ''  '  ^'"'"  '"">'Jkerehief  on  a 
Uo«n  their  arnu.  and  «ur     'Ir  ?'"'  '""'"^  °"  ^'-'  --»y  to  h  y 

that  the  whole  Hntil        ;'l  X');'''^'''  ^^t"^'  '^"^"••^^'-'  ^'"-i;^ 
fantry,  «o  cavalry,  2  field  gunTanU ^    'nlT    ;"'  ''^  '"""'^  ^'  '''  "' 
and  hia  240  men."   The  victor^  To.  ''''"'■"'  '^  »''^'  ^'"""fc'  ensign 

-nent.  with  the  inscrip:ion.'L^^^^^^^^^^ 

achievement  of  Laura  Seeord  la    be  „      '  I^""''  '''  ''''""     '''''  '^'"'^ 
drama  by  Mrs.  S.  A.  Curvon  amlofT  "      '  "''  ""J^"^'^  o^  a  historical 

from  its  Lake  Ontario  outlet      Te"'  ""'  '''"'^''  '^^'-^  ^  '"•'- 

fertile  Niagara  region,  and "  supl;' -.h""'';  ""'  ^'"  '"oxhaustibly 
n^eansof  thecanaUSt  cj.a  Z  ir'  ""'""^^'^  "'"*-"—  by' 
eial  city.  It  is  purely  „  prod  of  '  -  ""^  '"  '"^"'^^"*  ^•>-«'-' 
-  a  city  to  the  IndomLbfe  en:;;^  w^^^^^^^^  ^  7''  '^  ^^^^^^^'^ 
conceived  the  idea  of  the  great  on.n'nn  ^""'*""  ^'«'''".  ^^o 

to  completion.  St.  Cath!  n  s  rT""^  ""'  '"'^"^  P"^^'-*^  ^* 
-chine-works;  handson,  TubH  il IT^  ""r^'''^  ""•'«'  ^^ 
of  the  best  collegiate  institute    in    h'  '"''  ''""''''^  '^^  ""« 

popular  health  resort,  much  IZu  «  T"""'''  ^'  '«  ^'««  ^  very 
mineral  springs  rank  h"  am^^^^^^^^^^  '"""f'^T  ^'^  ""^'^^^  ^'  'ts 
Tl'ere   is  fishing  i„   th^   nethh    I     ,''"''  ^"^^^''^  "^  the  world 

Piel^el.     C.iJboteltXn?i;:j7,,r"   '''"   '-'''    ^^ 

Ontari:  is  I  ^ ^ZtZ^tZZ:''-'-  ''  '^'^  ^^^^  ^^ 
l^'t  to  the  sea  for  the  vast  trade  of  t'r'  f  ""^  "'  "'  ^««^  ^"  o»t. 
"^iies  in  length  from  Port  Colbo  ,!  o  Vl"l  '^'^'"-     ^^'^  '^-"^  -  ^^ 

Lake  Ontario.    The  differenelt     ^  ,'t  .^^^^"^  ^^^^ 

8  '  ^et^eca  the  lakes  is  about  327 


rrry-.rw"  'p^wr'i^^r^^  '^'  ■" 


18 


NIAGARA   TO   TORONTO. 


*  .! 


•ii 


Hi !  i 


ft.,  which  is  overcome  by  a  system  of  25  lift-locks.  All  the  masonry 
of  the  work  is  of  splendid  and  massive  proportions,  and  is  built  of  an 
enduring  gray  limestone.  At  Welland  the  canal  is  led  over  the  Cliip- 
pewa  River  by  a  costly  aqueduct.  The  original  feeder  of  the  canal  was 
the  Chippewa  River,  which  proving  at  times  inadequate,  a  branch  canal 
was  cut  to  the  Grand  River.  Of  late,  however,  arrangements  have 
been  made  by  which  the  canal  is  always  adequately  supplied  from 
Lake  Erie  itself.  Along  the  line  of  the  canal  are  strung  a  number  of 
prosperous  villages.  The  first  sod  of  the  original  canal  was  turned  in 
1824.  Mr.  Merritt's  modest  conception  was  a  canal  "  4  ft.  deep,  1  ft. 
wide  at  bottom,  19  ft.  wide  at  the  water  surface,  and  to  accommodate 
vessels  not  exceeding  40  tons  burden."  The  present  structure  has  a 
width  at  the  bottom  of  100  ft.,  and  accommodates  vessels  of  1,500  tons. 
Leaving  St.  Catharines  our  train  passes  the  villages  of  Jordan  and 
Beamsville,  and  27  miles  from  Niagara  we  find  ourselves  at  the  busy 
village  of  Grimsby.  Here  is  the  summer  resort  of  Grimsby  Park, 
with  its  famous  M^ethodist  camp-meeting  ground  in  a  grove  of  oaks  and 
pines  beside  the  lake.  The  region  about  Grm  sby  is  literally  one  great 
peach-orchard.  It  is  estimated  that  there  are  something  like  400,000 
peach-trees  in  the  Niagara  district,  which  ships  annually  over  a  million 
baskets  of  this  delicious  fruit.  The  beauty  of  the  peach  orchards, 
whether  in  bloom  or  when  bending  under  their  wealth  of  luscious  pink 
aad  white  and  golden  spheres,  is  something  that  beggars  description. 
The  peach  harvest  begins  about  the  end  of  July  and  continues  until 
the  middle  of  October.  The  peaches  are  shipped  all  over  Canada  in 
baskets  covered  with  pink  gauze.  In  this  favored  legion  flourish  also 
apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  all  kinds  of  small  fruits,  melons,  quinces, 
grapes,  walnuts,  chestnuts,  and  even  tigs.  Beyond  Grimsby  we  have 
only  the  stations  of  Winona  and  Stony  Creek  to  pass  before  we  come 
to  Hamilton. 

Hamilton. 

The  chief  hotel  of  Hamilton  is  the  Royal  ($2.50  to  $4  per  day), 
which  is  first  class  in  every  respect ;  but  there  are  many  other  good 
hotels,  such  as  the  St.  Nicholas  ($1.60  to  $2)  and  the  Dominion  ($1  to 
$1.50),  where  the  toui'ist  may  be  accommodated  more  cheaply.  The 
city  is  vcW  supplied  with  restaurants,  called  coffee-rooms.  The  chief 
club  is  the  Hamilton  Club.  Theatres,  the  Grand  Opera-House,  Asso- 
ciation Hall,  Alexandra  Arcade.  The  city  is  traversed  by  street-cars, 
and  hacks  are  to  be  obtained  at  the  station  and  the  cab-stands  as 
well  as  at  the  chief  hotels. 


NIAGARA   TO  TORONTO. 


lake,  where  the  northern  and  LI  \  ""'  "'"  "P'"'^  ""<>  «'  the 
.he  east  »i„„s  of  een.u  ir,;;;  Wed  7" ,?"'  ""'  '  ""'«'  »P-' 
nearly  a  thousand  feet  in  ^Wth  Thi  °° f"'  "  '""«  •""■  <"  «nJ 
Beach,  and  it  cut.  off  f,.„„  o, 'H  ' !  ,"  '''"'"">  "^^  BBrllBg,„„ 
'-»"ton  Ba,,  the  harbor  of  Ha, LoT  /i  !  ""'  '""°'  «"-  »'  >'»'- 
oonneets  the  inner  and  the  outer  waters  tI  ;'""' ""-""sI-  ""=  &acb 
raor  resort  fbr  the  citizen,  of  Hamiltol,  '"*  '"  "  '''™""'  »">■ 

o4™t"X*f.rchlVS''"'-"»^*-'«»-iV.and 
aWymart  a  fonner  leve,  „t  ,  ^  ;"™''"''.;"»  '"-.and  pr„h. 
chosen  original,,,  by  a  loyah-s.  J^I^^^^  '^'  ''%"'  ""n-ilton  „s 
of  .ts  splendid  landscape      The    °m'„     .  ^'""''  ""  "™"nt 

Niagara  escarpment,  which  here  ....    '"""'""■     I"  a  portion  of  the 

form  the  ainphithea  re  »    chX  c      .!  '        ''  "'*  ''""'  *»  '"'''  '» 
«ra.l,,  dividing  the  hei^h  s  in  !,,•?       T^'    "°»"  »  S™"  "lopin. 
-,  at  the  foo^of  whi:^"  w  ,e     L"?      J'r  '"™  "  «'S'"'-  «"'- 
'-  .hat,  in  rcnotest  ages,  the  wa.    s  Tif  p""'"'  =""°S'^'»  '^" 
»elves,  instead  of  at  Xi^gaW.  "  ^"^  'i''»chargcd  them- 

when  BtltaVo7Helrt"bce»''"'°  ""'  '"  "''*  '» 'he  War  of  mo 
one  George  Hamilton  :;'     ,,1X7.  °'  """"'^  °''""'°"''  -^' 
ling  of  a  c.^nal  through  BurL^  on  Z  Ik     ™  ""•    '"  ' «"  ""^  «"»- 
H.on,  which,  howeve,!  w.     aX  „fc  °f  5'^'°.""=  P'-P-i'^of  Han,. 
"»^  great  fire  in  ,sk     uZtZT::'::!''!'':''''''^  P'"^"- 
woA  again  with  the  pluck  and  ,nir    w,   T  '!'*''»"™'"'.  «nd  went  to 
of  ".he  An,bitio„s  City  "    J{„  al'  ■      it    "'  ""'"'"'  '■<^''  *e  title 
save  one  particular-and  in  t.atTT  k      '""  '°  "^  ="™"«^'' '"  all 
ho|».     Of  old,  she  thougl     t    0    :,L7'  '?  '™^  "'■■"""'■"'«<'  ''» 
"i.h  a  popniation  less  than  4 "ooo    ,  7"'  ''"'  "'"=»• '^n  1888, 

Kobablv  changed  the  t.,:  o  '  he  '.thir  !°™"'°  "''"  ""'«'»■  *= 
■0  ;ange  of  possibility.    Her  anci™      "l    r'"'''"'  ""•"  '"""» 
-;..  W  .0  left  utterly  behind,  ^^hX^rn  -r.' 

"Hn^  i::r:.:?„ra*;:c;;it::V"^^^""  *•'■•  •"'*  ----• 
of  two  dioceses,  the  A„s:ti  p;:7;-."'^'""«"^*»i-..v 

vatuolie  bishopric  of  Hamilton.    The    itv  h.sT^",'"  ""''  "'°  '"""»° 

"e  city  has  handsome  public  build- 


20 


NIAGARA  TO  TORONTO. 


ings,  and  stately  private  residences  on  the  Mountain.  Cresting  the 
height  are  the  spacious  buildings  of  the  Lunatic  Asylum.  A  stately 
thoroughfare,  dividing  the  city  from  the  Mountain  to  the  bay,  is  McNab 
St.,  named  for  Hamilton's  hero,  the  politician,  patriot,  and  soldier, 
Sir  Allan  McNab.  It  was  he  who,  during  the  rebellion  in  1837,  shat- 
tered the  power  of  the  rebels  at  Toronto,  and  organized  the  flotilla  on 
the  Nia{,tra  which  cut  out  the  steamer  Caroline  and  sent  her  over 
the  Falls.  On  the  heights  stands  Dundurn  Castle,  where  Sir  Allan  used 
to  live,  looking  out  over  the  city  whose  prosperity  he  had  done  so  much 
to  promote.  One  of  the  most  delightful  features  of  Hamilton  is  what  is 
known  as  "  The  Gore."  This  is  a  spacious  and  beautiful  public  gar- 
den in  the  heart  of  the  city,  with  the  busiest  thorouglifares  all  about 
it.  The  open  space,  which  is  cool  and  musical  with  fountains  and  brill- 
iant with  flowers,  is  triangular  in  shape,  and  formed  by  the  converging 
of  York,  James,  and  King  Sts.  Overlooking  "  The  Gore "  are  the 
thoroughly  artistic  buildings  of  the  Hamilton  Provident  and  Loan 
Society,  the  Canada  Life  Assurance  Company,  and  the  Court-Uouse. 
But  6  miles  from  Hamilton,  and  connected  with  it  by  a  steam  tramway, 
is  Dundas.  In  one  thing  Dundas  can  never  be  outrivaled  by  Hamilton, 
and  that  is  in  her  magnificent  landscape,  which  opens  like  a  dream  be- 
fore the  traveler's  eyes  as  he  sweeps  around  the  mountain.  At  the 
foot  of  the  lovely  Dundas  \''allcy  lies  a  wide  marsh  which  goes  by 
the  nickname  of  "  Coote's  Paradise,"  after  an  English  officer.  Captain 
Coote,  who  was  deeply  enamored  of  the  fine  duck,  snipe,  and  "  coot " 
shooting  there  to  be  obtained.  The  marsh  still  maintains  its  repu- 
tation ;  and  in  Burlington  Bay  are  good  black  bass,  silver  bass,  perch, 
and  pike  fishing.  The  pike  take  the  trollmg-spoon  freely  during 
the  latter  part  of  August,  but  at  other  times  rise  better  to  the  live 
minnow. 

From  Hamilt(m  to  Toronto,  if  wearied  of  the  rail,  one  may  go  by 
the  steamers  of  the  Haniilton  Steamboat  Co.,  four  times  daily  (fare, 
I5c.\  a  trip  of  3!^  miles  along  a  pleasant  coast.  The  boats  are  fast 
and  comfortable,  and  call  each  way  at  Burlington  Beach  and  at  the 
vast  strawberry-gardens  of  O'^kville.  The  tourist  desirous  of  visiting 
the  Northern  Lakes,  or  what  is  perhaps  more  widely  known  as  the 
Muskoka  region,  may  branch  off  by  the  Northern  and  Western  R.  R. 
from  Hamilton  via  Beeton  and  Barrie,  and  leave  Toronto  till  his  re- 
turn, but  the  fastest  train  services  center  in  Toronto.  Beeton  is  of 
interest  a§  the  center  of  the  great  honey  industry  of  Ontario.     The 


TOEONTO. 


21 


tho  ,war,ns  are  watched  ^^2'"'''  '''°"'°""-    ^^  "^^S-es  of 
bred  catllc  ^ive  to  Xir  ,  ?"  '■''™  """  '"'"""''"•''  «'  "«>™ugh. 

«f  the  Wite  strain?  T  e  e "nee  „;'" -"T  '"  ""'"'^  ""^  """'^ 
b.ou«h.  .„a  „teh  degree  of "e* !„  ZTT"'  "^T"  ""'  ^'™ 
we  meet  the  Northern  road  fr„,n  Cl.  ™'  °"  '"""'  ^'■""'X'. 

Toronto. 

«paci„„,  harbor  crowded  wi*  he  trnffi  f  .t  '?","''  """  »  '='=  '"" 
formed  by  what  i,  k„„w„  *  The  ,,?  d  1"  *■"•  ■""''  '"■'''"^  '' 
P.oa.ure.gro„„d  for  the  Llll';'  °t"  llf  '"^"7  ™-o^ 
Toronto  what  Conev  Islanrl  an^  \i    u  ^'        ^®  Island  is  to 

It  is  really  nothin5,„o  ^  i"  '"'"  ''"'^^^  ^--^  ^«  ^^--  York. 

and  offseoli.,.  ,?o:rr  W  S^ ^^Us  ^ ^'.  ^'^  ^^^  ^^^^^ 
changin-     The  li  .hthousp  on  ^.,    y'^%^"d  its  shape  is  continually 

or  the  water,  .tandr::::  dt  ^  ri^d'' ":';  "'"■'"  - '-  '-• 

Island  wa,  eonnected  with  the  mai^  and  bv  ^    t        /"'"''  "«"  ""= 
east,  but  storms  having  breached  tl^.tl^^  "  °'  "''"*  '"  ""' 

"arrow  channel  was  for^  '  with  I  '"k  "'  '"''"'"''^''  ""''  " 

and  i8  fringed  with  li^htiri.  d  """'  """"'"-     The  W. 

ceasclcssl/invadcd     °     "sa     drift '''"», T"''*"  """^^  '"'^"""'^^  "» 
swarm  with  merry  life  and  the  ,b  ''"/"""""  «l«'  "'"'e  beaches 

*c  cottages  and  the     'I  ow  tt:,    t  '."oZ:  '  "''n  ""r  ™-    "«'■  »-' 
hotel,  which  was  built  bv  H.lr       ^7         '''"''''' °' »  S^at  summer 

world.  The  .  hotel  tuounded^i^d"'-''™'"'"'  "™"'"  "'  «"« 
coasters  and  merrvgo-rouLs  al  h  ,  r*"- ''"""°"''  '""'  ""'''■ 
the  summer  evening  Z,2  1  ?  "'"' '"  ''""'  "'  "  """"Sh 
pass  the  uuremitlTferr"  s  ^  '*""  '"'  '"^  *^  P^  "^  - 

ver,'::::^:  ;!;xxt::  «;r- --.  0.1  he.  siop. 

port  Hills.    The  almost  levele  „  „ '°„f  h  T  "'  ""=  '""■™- 

with  many  spire,  and  with  the  grec    I,  1  of  ""        7''  "  '"■°'''" 
horse-chestnuts.     All  thro..»h  t,  ,  mnumerable  elms  and 

Jolieiou^ly  shadowed ;  ,,„  Ih    TT'^I  r""™"  '"'  "'"""  "" 

streams  in  freely  .Hro^gLthenaWb^che':!     "'"'"^   ""   ™"»'' 


22 


TORONTO. 


From  the  Don's  mouth  on  the  E.  to  the  Humber  on  the  W.,  a  dis- 
tance of  8  miles,  the  city  stretches  an  unbroken  front  along  the  rim  of 
the  lake.  Between  these  limits  is  gathered  a  population  of  about  200,000 
—a  population  which  is  increasing  at  a  rate  with  which  few  other  cities 
on  the  continent  can  compare.  ^\ heady  she  begins  to  reach  out  beyond 
her  containing  streams.  All  Ontario  and  much  of  our  Northwest, 
regions  giowing  rapidly  in  wealth  and  population,  are  tributary  to  her, 
and  must  continue  to  nourish  her  growth.  No  other  city  on  the  lakes 
with  the  exception  of  Chicago,  has  fairer  prospects  for  the  future  than 
Toronto. 

The  very  name  Toronto  signifies  "  a  place  of  meeting,"  a  place  where 
men  are  gathered  together.  The  first  mention  of  the  name  is  in  some 
French  memoirs  of  1680,  where  it  is  applied  to  the  Portage  from  the 
number  to  Lake  Siincoe.  In  the  sheltered  harbor  at  the  Ontario  end 
of  the  trail  the  French  erected  a  fort,  the  remains  of  which  .le  yet  to 
be  seen  in  the  exhibition  grounds.  To  this  post,  at  first  cailled  Fort 
ltouill6,  the  name  Fort  Toronto  was  afterward  given. 

THb;  HISTORY  OF  TORONTO. 

Ontario,  as  a  separate  province,  is  the  creation  of  the  United  Empire 
Loyalists,  and  Toronto  was  the  creation  of  (iovemor  Simcoe,  the  first 
governor  of  the  new  province.     These  United  Empire  Loyalists,  whose 
experiences  and  whose  work  in  province-buildin,'   we  shall  again  refer 
to  when  writing  of  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  were  inhabit- 
ants of  the  thirteen  colonies  to  the  south  who  remained  loyal  to  the 
mother-country  during  the  American  Revolution.     They  were  an  ener- 
getic  and  fearless  people,  possessing  fully  the  courage  of  their  convic- 
tions, and  not  unnaturally  the  feeling  between  them  and  their  insurgent 
fellow-countrymen  was  implacably  bitter.     When  the  independence  of 
the  Thirteen  Colonies  was  acknowledged,  their  position  was  difficult  in 
the  extreme.     They  could  not  accept  the  new  order,  and  to  the  new 
order  they  were  hopelessly  unacceptable.     They  had  staked  everything 
on  the  triumph  of  England,  and  to  England  they  now  looked  fo.'  help. 
They  were  given  lands  in  Canada  and  Nova  Scotia ;  and  their  splendid 
energy  and  courage  carried  them  through  difficulties  and  hardships  un- 
der which  a  weaker  people  would  have  succumbed.     A  very  large  pro- 
portion of  them  belonged  to  the  educated  and  cultured  classes.     Their 
great  exodus  from  under  the  shadow  of  the  new  flag  took  place  in  the 
years  1783  and  1784;  but  when  the  new  province  of  Upper  Canada 


TORONTO. 


23 


was  organized  under  the  wise  supervision  of  Governor  Simcoe,  addi- 
tional parties  flocked  in.  and  in  the  four  years  from  1791  to  17i^5  their 
numbers  increased  in  that  province  from  12,000  to  30,000  Prominent 
among  the  United  Empire  Loyalists  were  the  Indians  of  the  ZZ- 
tions,  under  their  great  and  humane  warrior-chieftain.  Joseph  Brant  or 
Thayendanagea.  These  faithful  allies  were  granted  a  fertile  territory 
along  the  course  of  the  Grand  River. 

As  we  have  already  mentioned,  Niagara-on-the-Lake  was  the  first 
capita  of  Upper  Canada.  Gradually  it  was  borne  in  upon  the  pro- 
vmcal  authorities  that  a  town  like  Niagara,  within  range  of  American 
guns,  was  ,11  adapted  to  be  the  seat  of  government.  Thereupon  the 
capital  was  shifted  to  the  "Place  of  Meeting,"  across  the  la'ke^and 
the  mfant  executive  felt  more  secure.  The  significant  and  musical 
name,  however,  was  changed,  and  Toronto  became  York.  What 
are  significance  and  beauty  when  weighed  in  the  balance  against  a 
compliment  to  the  heir-apparent?     This  was  in   1793;   but  though 

hearts  of  the  inhabitants.     The  name  of  York  was  worn  like  an  ill- 
fitting  garment      "Muddy  York"  it  was  called  by  derisive  but  not 

he'rr"  Tfr-    ''""  "''"'  '^  ^''*'  ''''  ''''''^'  '^'^  -to  itself 
the  title  and  the  dignity  of  a  city,  the  name  of  York,  with  its  contume- 
lious epithet,  was  eagerly  sloughed  off,  and  the  "Place  of  Meeting"  re- 
sumed its  ancient  title.     In  1794  there  weio  but  12  houses  at  Toronto 
and  when  the  War  of  1812  broke  out  tins  provincial  capital,  now  the 
second  city  in  the  Dominion,  contained  but  900  inhabitants 
who  de*;'  ""7^^  f  2  Toronto  was  twice  captured  by  the  Americans, 
who  des  royed  the  fortifications  and  sacked  the  town,  after  a  struggle 
lasting  from  early  morning  to  ^ndown,  when  the  English  general 
cons,dering  the  position  untenable,  abandoned  i.  when  he  found  him-' 
self  confronted  with  a  vastly  superior  force.     The  Canadian  militia 
who  bore  the  brunt  of  the  war,  preferred  to  select  some  more  advan 
tageous  battle-ground  than  the  exposed  provincial  capital.    All  through 
this  war  the  chief  honors,  in  the  land  battles,  fell  generally  to  the 
Canadian  arms      On  the  American  side  the  war  was  strongly  disap- 
proved  of  by  the  best  men;  its  object  being  thus  sarcastically  charac- 
terized  by  Randolph  of  Virginia:  "The  people  of  Canada  are  fir     to 
be  seduced  from  their  allegiance,  and  converted  into  traitors,  as  a 
pieparaion  for  making  them  good  American  citizens."     The  spirit 
with  which  the  Canadians  went  into  the  contest  is  thus  described  b^ 


fr. 


24 


TORONTO. 


Colonel  (J.  T.  DciiiHon  :  «  I,,   I8|2 


'''•«»»"■<"•  t(.  liK'l.t,  I..avi.,g  Mh,  „|.|  „„.„,  tho  bov 


ovory  ablchodiod  iiuiii  wont  to  tho 


tll(>    ti(>l(|8.       <) 


thiit 
fnnK 


I'f  mij,'li(,  tmvi'l  It  diiv' 


.•<,  imd  Mio  women  to  till 


war  wilhoui.  nioctinf,'  an  able  bodicl 


.V  H  join  ncy  in  this  province  dm 


ing 


WW 


man,  an  they  were  nil  on  tho 


III   1SH7  01 


■t'linvd  tho  rebellion  of  William  I 


nilled  himself  "  Cliairmai. />/•<)  A7«.  of  the  r 


yon   Mackenzie,  who 


Staf.M»f  r,,,u.r  Canada."     The  foolish  self-stvlod 


rovisional  (lovcMiiment  of  tho 


what  they  called  a  Trovisidoal 
ara  Jliver;    but  the  rebel   ren, 


^'omel•y's  Tavern,"  on  Y 


ong(»  St. 


its.     With  a  force  of  about  »{)() 
but  when  the  "Men  of  (Jo,c" 


hands  were  seatt(«red  after  a  short  but  si 


patriots  established 

■  -Kill  on  Navy  Island  in  the  Niag- 

was  II  place  known  as  "  .Mont- 

,  u  tew  miles  north  of  the  city  lim- 

men  the  rebels  threatened  Toronto; 

iiiiivcd,  under  (^)lonel  McNab,  the  rebel 


took  place  the  destruction  of  the  st 


iiu'P  strii{,nvle.    Soon  afterward 


This 


It  'p 


exploit  has  been  thus  described  by  Dr.  I? 
Tho  Provisional  (Jovernment 


earner  Caroline,  already  referred  to. 


ryce ; 


in  the  Nii  pira  iJivcr, 
Mberty  and  K(pialit 


JlcNab,  who  held  the'  Canadian  si 

•VcemlH'r  2  »  by  Captain  Drcw.'u.  N."" 


was  now  orj^'anized  cm  Navy  Island 
no  patriot  (la,,,  with  twin  stars  and  tile  n.,>tto 
wa.s  hoisted,  and  planted  in  the  face  of  Ccdonel 


on  I) 

The  i 


lore.    A  daring' action  was  performed 


nsiirf,'ents  had  nuule  use  of  a 


i)iie  of  McNab's  eoi 


plies  from  tlie  .Viiu-rican  si 


ves.s.'l,  the  Caroline,  in 


nmand 


for  the  nij^ht  under  tl 
of  the  fort 


!ie  ver 


lore  to  Navy  Island.     Tl 


earrylnpf  sup- 


le  vessel  lay  moored 


■y  jiuns  ..f  Koit  Schlusser ;  indeed,  the  shadow 


enveliiped  the  Caroline.     With  7  1 


men  in  ail,  wl 

iMpfnin  boarded  the  ill  fated  ves.sel 


lo  were  armed  with  pistols,  cuti 


/  boats,  carrying  .some  (50 


lasses,  and  pikes,  tho 


on  account  of  the  current,  to  br 


eiiptured  her,  but  not  be 


tl 


minn;  over  the  Niaj^'ara  Falls.     Tl 


injj;  her  to  the  Canad 


ini;  able, 


ian  side,  sent  her 


bottom,  !ind  so  Hrit 
in^^  couhl  blot  out  the  b 


lie  vessel  proved  to  be  an  American 
am  was  compels'  h>  disavow  the  seizure,  but  noth- 


nivery  of  tlu  deed 


THE  TOHONTO  OF  THE  PRESENT  " 

t  s  i„. , ' .  5  ri';;.  d,r".','  '';"';■•  '■''";"  ^'"'  "'■  ''■!'"»•■" ■''«""•« 


TORONTO. 


25 


oi«i. ™'i„.., ,     I   'r:;:;'  ':'^,""f  - "• "  -«>■  '.-i, 

"  lu.,„„K,.,„.„„»  a,„l  ...„,,,,,;,'  "    "',"." '"'""■     <■'»<''>  »iA 

"■"".IvHul  a..lm.vn„o,„  „  , ,    ■     '  *'""  '""''  "I"'"  »  P»«'  <" 

'i"""^.».  i'  > «:,":■:,:,::::;:,:  ,;;.„"■•;;;■,  '•-■';'  "i,.!.  a..  ,.„». 

f"""  " -M  irnii,,,,-  „ir,.,.  ,v,,.,.  r„„i„,  ,,":'  ""  "I"'"  »«tT. 

y-l'ti"S.    TI,o,, I„. ;  »     ,     '     '  '  ''."  """'"'"•  "-'"-"i-:.  "n,l 

Wl,c.,.,.„„;„.,„|,';i,';,"'f„ '"'"""  :'"••  """  "■'"  tl.e  llu,„l,er. 

'>nls  that  or.o  Klizaboth  EIH^  conv,Vt<wl  /  f  >    •  *"'^"  '■•'^- 

-n<len...a  to  stand  In  th^^iZ  ^  ^^  IXl^^^:^  ""^-"-'  -« 
cessive  n,arkot.,lav8.     The  women  of  T  "  ""  ^^'^  ™^- 

gaze  of  the  world   hut  ut  7.  "'"  ''•■'  ^'*'"  ''*^''J  »P  to  the 

-e  <.^  the :;: ;  r.:  ;x :  jztt'^  --  '''^'  '''^'-^ 

Portance  to  Kin..  St    is  Vnnrp       ,  "  ^'"''''^^'     ^'^^  '"  ""■ 

Tl.e  obj..e,„r  .l,i/„;  °„°  rl'"  '  """""•'  '"  »-■  "PP-  lake,. 
«»J  parsing  ,„„lc,-  ^UolZf,^r°-'"''  "'  "■■""■""''"S  '"'l'^'  K™ 

««.  4«  ,„,,:.  of ,  c\ ,  °4t"''"""  'r "'  """"''■  *'»'■  "■« 

province,  an,l  „.»  ,,,,«  mv      "  J  wi M     ™'"'  '""  '""'"  ""-""'^  "^  "■» 
"  ...agnilicont  dist,,,   "•'  of  1^'  ;"''  ''"^"'ads.     Apropos  of  ,l,e 

."ay  be  c,„„,ed  fro  ,1  oL    '■  '""■'"«""''-'  ""=  f"""""'?  anecdote 

ding.  o„.kd ..  ;,::.:„  'o'". "7;™  ™'™:;'"  »°*  ^.^  d^.  .sc.«d. 

-  A  story  IS  toid  of  a  tourist,  uewly 


5f ' 


1^! 

m 

I   la" 
f    i     • 


^  tem-i 


26 


TORONTO. 


I    ; 


arnved  at  Vork,  wishing  to  utilize  a  stroll  before  breakfast  by  maki,,.. 
n   as  be  went  along  the  whe,.eal>o..ts  of  a  gentleman  to  whom  he  ha3 

f  the  book-keeper,  "Can  you  tell  n.e  where  Mr.  So-and-so  lives «  " 

along  Y  onge  St.  here  In  town."     ''  o,,,  ,es,"  was  the  reply,  when  the 

address  had  been  canced  r.f    "  M,.  s!,^  „«  i       i-  ,r 

25  miles  np !  "  '  ^^°-''"^-'«  '"'««  «°  ^onge  St,,  about 

At  the  eorner  of  King  and  Yonge  Sts.  throb,  the  heart  of  the  eity  * 

Irom  King  St.  northward  to  the  city  limits  Yonge  St.  is  lined  wi"th 

fine  retail  ostablishmonts.     Fron,  King  St.  S.  to  the  water  it  is  built 

skirt's  b'"r''r  '''fT'''  This  applies  equally  to  Front  St.,  whieh 
kuts  the  harbor.  At  the  water-front  of  Yonge  stands  the  Custon.- 
Ilouse  a  piece  of  elaborately  decorated  Italian  architecture.  Between 
*ront  S  .  and  the  water  to  the  W.  of  Yonge  lies  a  low  flat  known  as 
thefcspU.  .ade.  Here  the  various  converging  railways  enter  the  city 
aiid  here  at  the  foot  of  York  St.,  where  in  1851  the  (Lntess  of  m^ 
ued   the  first  sod  of  the  Ontario,  Simeoe  and  Huron  R.U.,  stands 

ttl  ^    r"'''  ^'"•"""''  '^'""  *«  «'^«  I"'^^^  ^«  the   splendid 

structures  which  are  being  erected  in  Queen's  Park.     Toronto  is  a  city 

of  churches,  there  being  over  120  churches  and  chapels  within  its  bor- 
ders This  being  the  case,  it  goes  without  saying  that  Sunday  is  reli.^- 
lously  observed  as  a  day  of  rest.  Except  when  the  churches  are  dra^v- 
ing  m  or  pouring  forth  their  demurely  pacing  throngs,  the  citv  seems 

Ih^anvcs  oul  a,id  hu,k/rom  Comer  of  King  and  Ymge  SM, 
Dais  Klat  and  ^fN^.^oHsTsT*!-'  «»  ^--.  »°"  -d 
Plea'mrnS-':"""""''  ^°"-"°'*°' ''°"  '^''"'J.  EsHngto,,,  Mount 
OeorrSt:=6^"S«''  ""'*'  ""''  ''"'*•  «'"««  «<'»"'■  »'•  Albans  St.,  St. 
S...an7",r;;;-'sfS.f-'^'°°'  ''■•  '^"""'^'^  "'S"  ^ark,  Queen 
milt^"""'"''"^  ^'■'  '"''"'  ^'""'»  "<""'.  """'"oi-  Bay  and  back-? 


TORONTO. 


37 


-except .,  t,.o  j:;,i:  t,u:,?e  "or;'"'^"'^  ^^  "'^  ''^^-"- 

James's  Cathedral  at  n  ""  '■°''"^''  "^  ^'onf?^  is  st 

^;.nai,„ ,.,  „,  r?,™' ;,,r,,;;i/:r ::  >;^;;;f  "t  "'■-"'■ «-  "■'- 

"!»■■  (Jothic.     It«»nire  so™ri„„  ,„     ,    ■'  '"'°""  "»  P<!'-P''iidiu- 

tio..  .he  iofti,.,  o"l!,Z21t-  «"        ,  ""  "■■  "  "'"'  °-  "-I- 

the  .„„er  ,„  St.  Jam  "  .  cLldi  "  '*'"  "'  '''-''  "■     ^^'"'i" 

»o„  the  fi«  prize  at  tl,e  Vienna  Exhibition     Th  "'  "'''"'' 

<l™l  contains  nmnn.nenl,  to  «o,no  of   fT'  •        ' '"""'""'  "'  "'"  «'""'■ 
and  to  that  ,..,.„n,  oW  "    I  :i  ^  ^  °    I""  "if' »?'*l-i  -n»  „r  Ontario, 

to.,  have  Wen  hate,-  aw'r:;:  "t:;"";!""?  ""T '-''  ""'- 

are  fine  examples  of  the  beat  Htainnnr  ,  °''"""'^  '''">"«' 

CatbeUral  i,  .he  fonnl  ch    cTSr"  "*  "'  **"'"*•    ^'-  "'"'""•' 
l»vin.  remove,,  H.  th  e   ;e  t     ^"'^^^^^  ""  '"""'  ""'  "" 

view  „,„,  be  h„U  or  To-onl  t::Z:..:;Z£:  '""  '  ■""=""'«'™' 

.Mr:rtn"Lt;s  j, ::  -rt  r';°"^  °'  ^'- "--  «- 

'i.h-ably  managed  Pnblie  L  b,  arv  »Th  '  "'"  "'"  ''''^  "»"•  ""'  »"■ 

*or.  thorongbfa  e  f;  ;,:  w\    's.  of  T  "  'T'  °'  ''"™"">  *'     ^ »« 
.he  PoM.OfBee  i,  tbc  Gr™d  n         r,       ■""'"■     "^  ""''■'  '°  ""=  W.  of 

have  moved  t.,e:o!:\:;,r.X'z:;\;!r:r  -^-r  "'°^^ 

"ig  capacity  of  2  3(;o  '     ^^^^  *''<^''^*'"e  lias  a  seat- 

Jt=:rets!'-:^^^^^^^^ 

corner  of  Kino-  and  SiiTw-no     n         .    ^  Andrew's,  at  the 

H.»,e,aha„dJe':;;d7„,„?z~:^^^^^^^^^ 

trance  IS  on  Simcoe  St    imrin..  o         •  «»^"  uesign.    Ihemamen 

The  garden,  are  t^:^ CJ^TZ^ ::':::' "T'^  "-''■ 
throngh  them  „s  once  Russell's  fee.      „  tbi  h    ■  '  """""^ 

used  to  row  when  the  infant  nnnr,.,         u    '^  '■overnor  Simcoe 

dining-room  at  Ooverl       '^^  ^L  L^  t*',,"'™'"""-    '^'■" 
traits.     Permission   to  v.-       .1,  •-'^'^^^•n«  a  fine  collection  of  nor- 

A.  a  a   7u"b    '  d  Grvl'  '"?";r  ■""'  '"  ""'"-o  f"-"-' 

Sronnds,  are  the    fd  Lpper  Card"   C  n'"'  k",'!-'"  ""*'  °'  """^'^ 

-.™™  their  nse.,„-a:"r,^sir:s':;::::'r:? 


, 


28 


TORONTO. 


a...ple  and  „a*„„e  «.„„„.     ,Vi„U,  ^r^l    .^    ^    LT„    h: 

On  Queen  Si.,  between  Yonge  and  College  Ave    i,  o..»„j.  ,.  .. 
tV  scat  of  the  Snporio,.  C„„„1  „{  .„„  Prfvln  e  of  ^e  °     V        ' 

battery  of  Russian  cannon,  spoils  of  Sobastopol.   Tumin-  to  the  left  tb! 
caiTiase-wav  skirta  tiia  ..a^      ^  .  ^"'"'"o  i"  "le  leit  the 

f i:  r„f  .°:x:r:r  z^:;::  ir  t-t 

.■onto  Globe.    Thi,  .tatue  i.  „  fl„e  piece  „,  .Julp...,  and  «s  dt  ^ 


TORONTO. 


29 


fyuig  proportions.     In  Convocation  Hall  was  a  line  "srlTnl  i    , 

c,  ■.epar.^ent  of  .he  Don.ini^ZZ;  L.  C  „"  1  ^^^T'-f" 
.-."  No.  f„.  ,„.,„  .he  U„ive,.«.y  a,,  .he  ,« I™™,™",  h  ^l^" 
a  very  massive  and  handsome  bioclc  of  «fn«n  /-  ""'^'"  buihUngn, 
..ve  chamber  a„a  .he  Dopa.::;^;:."  rnl*  IT-V^^^^^^^^ 

he  lovely  „.,ghborhoo,l.    This  is  the  School  of  Tech„.,,!4    T-  ,1 
head  of  the  paik  is  „  «„.  structure  of  brown  Cr^i^vT       , 
faced  »ith  rod  brick.     This  is  MeMaste,  iZCoTZ^a^l  U^' 

-.one  Pile  of  K„„.  Coliego,  belo.^n.'^rC     r   rcL       'Z 

^i^  c'hTct'""  "'•""'"'^  """^'  ^'--^»  I'nitorslty'ofrMeT. 

Tliough  the  grow.h  of  Toron.0  is  ehicflv  toward  the  w.„      ,.       .u 
the  handsomest  residences  are  probably  eas.  of  Y„„tT      ""'■"'• 
Sherbonrne  Sts.,  and  on  varions^eross-sl:    etnnecX;  ZJT'o   T 
corner  of  Gerard  and  Sherbonrne  ar.  the  HonrcS™    Card^el," 
whtei  were  opened  by  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  I860     Tllv  ' 

square  of  10  acres,  and  were  presented  to  the  city  b  '.ho  Hrr7-   " 
Ala,.    Entrance  .o  the  grounds  is  free  betwce^  ^i^tu^'f  sTT 
and  6  p.  M.    On  the  west  side  of  the  gardens    close  to  ri„„.  i    L. 
».and.be  Pavilion  Music  Hal,  and  .l,eCo„se,4.    S.    Tb    pI  il^i; 

T.     „      ''°"""™'  "I'Pcara  upon  its  stage.    The  annual  fes. 
vals  of  .he  Philharmonic  and  Choral  Societies 'arc  hcluZl     I 


J  ' 


i] 


80 


THE   MIIHKOKA    DISTRICT. 


of  the  MHho.li.ts.     r    .X/us    ,    7'"'"  .^''»'«P"''ta„  Chu.ch 

Ht.--  Al.hov  .'iL'.     Near         M  !  ""^  '''  '^"•'  ^'"'^  "^  ^^'"■^'•"  n- 

cathedra,,  tho  .  .a        ,?"'";?  ''T'"  ■^^'""'■^  «^-  ^ichneP, 

gullcry  (.f  paintinpH  and  statues   u  .!     T       ■         "*'  *'""''''"'^  "  «"« 

a.-t.    Entiancv  to  the  art  gull.rios  of  the  V         ,  '"^     '*"'''  ""^  ""^'•^'"* 
days  from  y  A.  M.  to  r.  ..  mV. »•''''"  '"  ^'■'^  '"  "'^"^'^■ 

well  to  visit  th.  0x1  ih  ioLoo'rsT; :;" "''-''''''  ■"  -•*  -•"  ^^o 

Kin;^  St.,  West      WhatlrT  !  ^"'"'■'"  '''''^''•'^*^  ^^  ^''ti^tH,  J 4 

-^I.tovi^sitth^o  IS"  "  :^^^^^^^^^^  ^:  "r-«^-^  '•".  they  Win' do 
wiil  do  wen  to  pay  thL  ^^^7:^ :;^:'^:'}^-'^^ '  and  thoy 
bein,  played  at  the  Rosedale  Uero  J  (  X  I  '"^"^"«' »-- - 
lacking  „.ost  of  the  defects  of  foot-l,al!   huZ  "'  ''  "  =""'^ 

nent  n.orit.s  of  that  most  man  y  spo  t  ''^  '77"'"''  ""  *''^  ''''■'"^^^ 
ti.o  n.ost  ski„f„,  Laerosse  ^r  of  cCd'  7 '"'""' ^""'^  "^■ 
world;  and  Toronto  bovs  one  nil  t  .1  "^"""^"-^'''^^  '«  to  say,  of  the 
in  their  hands.  The  Tor'on  «  21  7r  '"''  '''  ''"""  "'^'^  *»  "  «tiek  " 
ton  Road.  "*'  ^'•^'■•"^"  ^'''""'^^^  are  situated  on  Kings- 

The  Muskoka   District. 

--;  orM:t;ri:;:i^rx::;:rr^"  ^^  ^'-  ^^  ^-^^  ^-e 

the  Ottawa  River.     Fa'res"are  as  f ol  ^''"'''"  '^''"'^''''  ^ay  and 

-...■n,  ...30,  p,  coe:;:::  z^z:  tTt  "^"^^^'^  --^ 

turn,  .6.20;    Wagnetawan  and  retun     ii  95  n"T"  ^"^  ••«- 

turn,  16.95.     \  o,,a,.f,.^  ^f  '  ^^"^^  '    ^^'"'^  ^  Falls  and  re- 

villages  „„d  ^:mu,o/Cl     Z,:^T,         ""'"'""'  "  *'"^''  -'" 

merablo  late,  .„  of  all  ,-J,  iTJ'r  ^  """"'"■  ■">'  '•»»"- 
ro.ls.  All  arc  clear,  deep  and  cl  T  '"  '™""' ''"'™ '"  ""  '"«»v 
trout,  black  ba.,  a  d  pcrih    „Me    h    '""'"  "'"'  '"■°''''  "''""•  '""^ 

-..— ,.„e,„:dde;r,:;;:r^^^^ 


THK   MlJfiKOKA    DISTRIOT. 


81 


northern  watorn  may  ho  takc-n  that  Hnh  ..f  „...„,.  ./.•„...,  the  '«  Ti.or  of 

«on..hi^ove.«ooh...  Th.  ..J  ::;r;;.r :;.::;;:;: 

abo  t  the  lovely  waters  of  Lakes  Si.nce,  Spa.n.w,  and  Co.a^^ici  „ 

laking  the  Northern  and  Xorthwestein  R   l<    .  '"^"^"'nf- 

Grand  Tn.nk  «ysten,  we  nkirt  thj  X^^  ';'  v  Z^llirT  f  ^ 
water-shed,  where   streams  diverge  towar.l  I  uL   n  ^     '  *'" 

from  the  hills  the  train  winds  thLl  :T,        1    ti:  ofT'"'"' 
with  its  sweet  (,ld-country  landsear.es     PasHln.  V      ■  .7  "'""' 

of  Newmarket,  we  eateh  a  "li  .pse  of  H     ^      '         '  '""""'^  *"^^" 
!>•  u.  L  glimpse  of  the  infant  stream  of  Ilollmwi 

R.ver,  which  „,  „t  „w  .ho  „a,h  of  l,„n,.,„  „„„  'll^"Zt 

ju.t  made  the  portago  fr„m  Toronto,     lly  Holland  KW.T.T  ? 

Gee   :mn  Hay.     The  drowsy  villajre  of  IInll>,n.i   t  „    7- 

.  b,..  „,a,..  »h.„,  hero.  ih..  da,^::'  "^x  a,  tiiron:: 

n„«hc,.„  ,e...,.,,„.n.«  pa»,od  In  h.avy  »„,,on,  ,h,;;„,h  i.    C  ''  '  : 

1825  S,r  John  Kmnklin  called  at  Holland  Landin-  on  his  fi„,  „ 

.on  overland  to  the  north  pole.    „„  .he  villa  *;;c;    Zyl  Z"" 

huge  anchor,  which  »a.  hronght  from  the  Rov,?!  n„  !      ,   •    ..  " 

...d  hauled  hither  from  the  mu.  bv  Vj*  of    "„   'J. f"    "=""'• 

M  Bradford,  a  li.tle  farther  down  the  river,  there  i.,  .ood  trollin, 
for  maskmonge,  and  .here  are  some  fine  ™ipe  c;,vcrs  in  the  nc "^  '„? 
hood.    At  Lefroy  we  get  the  first  fflimose  of  T  nh^  «.•«  "^'=nDoi. 

.hect  of  water,  30  mile,  long  h,  U  bro^at  1^ !,.  1":^;:  iTlt,? 

r„:rzvra:d ;:::;":':  rr-*^^'  ^^^^ 

o^^  *v.    n  11-  """  ^'"^e  iNipissing,  the  Penetangn  shene  Urinph 

and  the  Colhngwood  Braneh.     Just  N  nf   \li„«>  i     t  '"".  "^  "'^«"<'n. 

;^;  ii  a^ha?mT  nTrir'^fth'^rrr-^  '"'"•  *'-"•»■ 

neighborhood  and  innnmerablc  Z;    d  'ZukCTT  "l  "" 
Ken.penfc,dt  Ba,  is  a  great  .tnmer  hotel  arBirBat Toi n^l^  "I^ 


t'     I'j 


32 


THE  MU8K0KA   DISTRICT. 


i   I 


to  Lake  Simcoe  by  a  channel  called  the  Narrows  I,V«  .1,    . 

in  o„.,„.i„,  ,.,„,.  „„ ,,  „wve"T„,:„  „.  X  ;  :,,j"«''^'"  --t"" 

»■"!  I'uic,  ainl  t|,c  waters  of  .1,,.  u<  "^"''^  "'"»' 

black  ba  ,,  |,id,o,d  tri  ,  "'■''  •'"'■"""'"y  »'"''l<"<l  "ith 

■  ■,  |iii,i(cici,  and  saliiion-tioiit.     At  Hanin    m,  «.:„  i  i 

a  .etthMnent  of  OJibwa.y  Indian.,  the  last  re  nnants  of    .1  ''  '' 

erful  tribe  that  |,c.or)led  the  m1  m.nu  /  '7"^"**^"^  t''<?  once  pow- 
o..in.to  the  nun.L.'  Vl^":;n;f  Af  O '^'"r  ^"'  '""^'^^■ 
if  1.0  prefers,  take  the  stea.ner  uZL.  down  "  l  l'  '"""^*  ""^' 
the  train  at  Washn-,,      Tin,.,  .  *''*"  '''^'''  ''"^  ''^Join 

..0  seven,  ii:::"™,:':;  .^ri^rrr:';,"""^' ''--  •" 

tin-ough  wild   ,.„,,i,|,,  „„,,  over  SovorMF.  ""'  S™"'"  grounds, 

;.ip,  for  which  i„di™  „„d  ™„„e,'„,„;  j'rj",,  ir'/'r 

"•"■»•'  *.i»  down  the  LZlS^^^l'T^rTT^I 

canoe  n,a,  be  obtained  at  Ran.a  o,-  O.^ilia,  at     co  ,  „    a  ont  ;f:  >" 

iKiiu,    iiu    at    |,i(^f    through    f.rnnito     Kr-»*    1.    . 

emerges  upon  tlie  hi^ldnnd,  of  «„  .t    i         .      ,""'"«  "otch  it 

t-.'n.i(v  cf  [..lie  Mr',,      ,  ""»''"''»•    A'  «l'o  southernmost  cx- 
•  -mill  u  i„,kc  Musliolia,  the  largest  of  the  series  ,t,„„k  .!.„  i 

town  of  «ravenhurst,  ur,  n.iles  fron,  w'  V        ?' 

vco-  „ietures„uel,.  situated  on  the  ingh  si  Z"  f  an    If    In,:' 

.m;-  N_.  w  rail  „,,  „„.,„,,,„„,  .„„  Musi;:i;'ai«::'r,i  ;";""- 

luvd.    A  side  excursion  up  the  S.  branch  of  the  Muskoka 


THE   MU8K0KA    DISTRICT.  33 

.11  of  which  are  fall  of  attrr,'  '"f""""'  ""I  "=veral  other  villa-e, 
•ho  lovelie.  of  .hose  L  Be^rma'":  TlT  """  *""*'■  ""-' 
hotel  situated  on  To„der„ "TnT T' "  ^ '  ^  '  '"'•«''  '"■■  "«""«« 
small  islands  called  the  "Kettle"'"  ''"'"""''°"''{  W-'ite  is  a  group  „f 

bridge,  the  chief  tow„°„f  .he  Mu"koW  di  ,  '"  "'''«"'""-'>°»<' "'  B™ce. 
k..ow„  a»  High  Fan,  and  the  olat  s'  .h  S'  'T'  '"""^  ™'-«" 
on  the  lakes  is  Per,  Carling,  „here  aU  the  »  k  """'  °™"'"  '"» 
.nd  where  Lakes  Muskoka^ndrsseL  1 ;        '?"''''''  """""-Se, 

lake  Rosseaa  has  an  e.treJe  l™r„7"r.f  "^  """'• 
great  variety  of  ehanning  land,care     r,f  ,  u""""'  ""''  P™'™'"  • 

thick  with  the  lovelies,  of  °s.X  t  '°""""'"  ''°'*''  "  '»  "«« 
inhabited,  and  the  dweller,  the^on  matMn"""^.  "'  ""''  '"'"''  "-^ 
'heir  „me  in  boats,  that  secZ  of.he  f  I  '"  '""'"^  "«' '"»«  "' 

Venetia.  Into  the  Lay  car  ?«>,,'  :  ""'"^  ""  "PP^I""""  «* 
parable  Shadow  River,  on  wh^Z,™  "";  "''""  """  '»-"- 
suspended  midway  betwee  wolve  y  worwTor  "  ""'  """^  ^  « 
small  stream  stealing  into  Shador^  ver  ^  „  '"rT  """'"»•  <>»  » 
the  Bridal. Veil  Pall,      .  e.„.„-  ™""^,™"''"°'ls 'he  clear  tinklins  of 

'ho  headland  of  iW  Vs  NesTTT    '"*"*^'' '"'  ^'""'  K-sea^    ' 
Lakes,  Lake  Joseph",  w.f .  ^  ,^^XZt  1 "'  "*■'  °'  ""•■  "-'o"" 
«>ming  into  repuL  as  pos  esZ  !  b^H  T  ""'""'"■    ^'■"' "  is 
Most  tonrists  „H|  probabTy  S.h.t  fte'd-^"''  "■""  "»  '^"«"- 
'han  of  kind,  for  it  wonid  be  ha.f  J';  ZtoU:!"  '"'  °'  '"'"" 
fairest.   An  advantage  afforded  bv  ,11  ,t  t        l       *''™  "''"'-''•'  is  the 
;•  rongh  it ..  ehar.i„:,y  h".  t"    c  „"  f  Ir  ift'  """  '""'''  ""'^  "'^ 
'he  conveniences  of  civilized  life  in  well  L°  'k  ,     '°  "''''"'  ™W  all 

The  traveler  who  wishes  to  visi,  .f  »  """s'entations  inns. 

Parry  Sonnu  win  follow  the  r!iZ  V    '  '**«»"«'»»'»■'  «ters  and 
'ake  the  stean.er  wllT,o7lT.  M         '°  ""*'  ^°"^  "d  "«e 

;;_h  Mic,  and   "^ahwaskesrure  "o^rrerat't"^'  ''''''•'• 
thence  down  the  coast  of  Geominn  R„    I       ?  "'^  '"«"*h,  and 

Archipelago  to  histonY.  Pen"  r.«thf"t  ^•^'''■^  ^^-«<^  -'^^  the 

the  hfl.rho,.  lie  th-^  rpn    •    ^^/""^"'s'^ene,  whore  under  thp  w„tcr"  of 

le  th.reni«ius  of  four  British -unboaN     n.     .  -  ^«t<'rfe  of 

3  o^nwoats.    H^re  is  one  of  the 


34 


THK   MUSKOKA    DIHTUICT. 


finest  stimnier  resorts  and  hotels  in  Canada-"  T^A.  P.„.ta«^„Mm.." 
Iho  first  settlement  of  the  Jesuits  in  Ontario  was  established  in  1634 
at  Penetanguisl.enc,  then  called  Ihonatiria,  and  in  commemoration  of 
this  the  Jesuits  have  built  there  one  of  the  finest  ecclesiastical  struct- 
urcs  on  the  conf.nent.  Of  the  almost  virf^Mn  waters  of  the  Maga- 
netawan,  which  one  traverses  on  this  trip,  a  writer  in  Forest  and  Farm 
speaks  as  follows : 

"If  a  man  can  stand  outdoor  life  and  live  on  venison  trout  bass 
pnrtndKcs,  dud.s,  pork,  tea,  a,.d  cracke.s,  there  is  no  be?te'r  nhice  ^oco 
to  .n  Amenca  that  is  as  accessible.  A  man  can  ro  there  in  J.dy  lUust 
heptembcr  or  October,  with  con.fort,  if  he  will  go  in  thc",i.rht  *wav 
and  shoot  deer  and  catch  trout  to  his  heart's  content.     J  me  to  August 
for  trout;   a  tcr  that  for  deer.     IkMuember  the  Mawawan    f as 
arge  as  t^e  Schuylkill  at  Philadelphia  or  consideraS^w  de   or  deepe 
than  the  Hnrlcn.  at  High  Bridge,  and  that  the  trout  have  an  unlimited 
range  and  are  scld,.m  disturbed,  so  that  they  have  a  clmnce  to  S-ow 
Deer  can  be  bagged  in  great  nun.bers  if  you  choose  to  do  so!     WUh  a 
couple  of  good  hounds  n.agnificent  sport  could  be  had  in  the  fall      I 
have  shot  partridges  ^ith  n.y  rifle  from  the  canoe  while  traveling   as 
UK.y  wcTe  strutting  on  the  shore,  and  their  drunnning  was  one  of  the 
peasantest  every-day  sounds.     Do  not  try  to  go  wit:hout  some  guide 
There  are  men  who  know  the  country,  and  they^hould  be  secured  fo; 
If  you  get  ,n  there  alone  you  will  have  little  sport  and  much  tSe." 

IJotween  Parry  Sound  and  the  mouth  of  Moon  River  lie  the  desert 
waters  of  Crane  and  IJlackstone  Lakes,  favorite  haunts  of  the  maski- 
nonge.  The  capture  of  this  splendid  fish  in  these  lakes  is  thus  de- 
scribed  by  a  writer  in  the  Toledo  Post : 

of  'y^^'^*'."'!;'.''^''^  of  Crane  and  I]laekstone  Lakes  are  capital  specimens 
of  the  primitive  wilderness,  and  long  may  they  so  continue'  The  few 
who  have  visited  their  teeming  watcn-s  have  mostly  been  genuine  S 

habitatillmr  "u^nTT  •'"';  'l'"  T^^'  ''''''  -nventio'naE  a„d 
habitations.     But  0,0  clearing  broke  the  majestic  sweep  of  the  grand 

old  forests   »|t, in  the  sheltered  bays  the  loons  laughid  undisturbed 

and  the  wild  birds  splashed  in  the  -marshy  edges  or  upo     tl  e    andv 

shores  with  none  to  molest  or  make  them  afraid  ^ 

bass  or  niXl-Pl"*  lT  '"'^^^^";«"y«'  ""'^  took  no  account  of  either  black 
ba.ss  or  picke  el.  It  seems  strange  to  talk  of  shaking  off  black  bass 
an,  making  disrespectful  remarks  about  these  gamy  gentry  wlien    hev 

"^Slo'me!'^''"^^  '"'  ''"''  '"^  *"^'^  ''-''''  ^«  "'-*'  asrirreallj 

t«  h'?^  ''""l'  ?V  '"5!'''  """''f  ^'"■*''  *«  ^^t^"''  tJ'«  maskinonge  it  is  necessary 
to  be  careful  lest  the  maskim.nge  should  catch  him.  The  nativ"  method 
of  taking  the  maskinonge  in  the  primeval  waters  of  Canada  is  bv  a 
small  clothes-  ine,  Imulcl  in  by  main  strength  when  the  fish  bites  but 
we  proposed  to  troll,  as  should  an  angle.-   with  the  rod.     Ours  wore 


THK    MUHKOKA    DISTRICT. 


35 

and  finally  a  good  gaff  '      '^''-  ^  ''1'"''"  ^'^h  double  hooks 

'^-<^^^^^'d^'^^^^^^^  Lake  the  first  morning' 

«o  that,  although  plaSdTn  o,ftS  rtn  itr-''^'"!?.  '"^'^'^  «"''  '"^d^'' 

before  f^jQ:^:^:^^^  ?r 's3eir^ ''  '''•''  "^ "-  -*-n> 

was  ,r.ore  like  a  crunch  than  a  bite      if  toorT'"'  "*  '^''^  "P^""  ^^at 
••O'l  a  turn  that  fixed  the  Unnt.        i         ,      ""'>'  »  ^^^^ond  to  give  the 

I'aJ  hung  somethrn,'  tircdXa'!?  Th"  1 7  '^"^  *«  ^''^'^"^^^  that  j 
started.     I  do  not  kno;  tLt  L^^L  g  7^^' ^^c  line  when  the  fish 

^y  rapidly  from  the  reol  as  thorh  of!  u  T^  ^''"'  ^"*  ^  ^^'^  the  line 
The  first  run  was  a  long  one  Kt  tilt  ""  ^«"bmarine  torpedo, 
stopped  before  the  reel  was  bare  Thi  wJ"'  '^"^*''''  '^"^  *hc  fish 
h;i'l  the  boatman  swing  his  craft  aeroi  fh  ""^  opportunity,  and  I 
«:aek  line,  I  turned  hi  herowaTtt' d "'"'"' '"^' '^^^^^ 

Tourists  for  the  upper  lakes  take  the  train  at  10  •?«  .  „  lu     . 
Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays,  for  Owen  Souml  t'    '  ^'*"'^''^'' 

Clyde-built  steamers  awaits  f  hi  f         .  '    ^'^  ''"^  ^^  *he  C.  P.  K.'s 

r^eorgian  Bay,  thTsrl^^ranr^^^^^^^^  ^^^  ^"^'^^^  ^  *^« 

Mke  Superior.    Here  connection  L      7      .  '^'"'  "^^  *^«  head  of 

going  to'or  coming  from  tTeTaeificT^^^^  T  '''  ^^^'^--t^J  train 
Nepigon  and  the  other  famous  !  ..  '  'P''*^^'"'"  '""'^^  ^^^  the 
di-n.bark.      All  Ue  e  route'  "n'T^^  ""''*'  °'  ^^'^^  «"P^"- 

«ui^e-Book,  Part  itwesTerc^^^^^^^^^^^^     '''-'"''  '^  ^'^  ^-^dian 

From  Toronto  eastward. 

•I'rect  route  between  Montreal  and  nn    ^      \^^^^-     ^his  is  the  most 
-ntry  than  that  traver^rby  ^  G    ^Tru  JT  ^f  ^  "^^^     " 
lake  and  the  St.  Lawrence  all  fhn  ..77       T     ^■'  '^'"''h  skirts  the 

HO).     Or  a  tourist  m!    t  -av"  ^  t  e^  P  Vf  T  ^'^  'l  "'^"^^^^^  ^^^^^' 
'  of  Quinte  road  to  Killl  I^L!'  "'v *^  ^^:^^^^'  ^^  there  take 


th 
Bichcl 


ieu 


road  to  Kingston,  whe 


.v^  .-w  «.iugbion,  Where  connnot'np  ;=  mo^„  .,.;,.   .. 
b.»,.,»hip  Co^pan,.,  bo...     He  route  w^:!,'!*' 


route  we  would  recom- 


:\C> 


PROM    TOItON'ro    KA8TWAU!). 


iiuMui,  howovor,  i8  that  by  wUor,  by  the  bouta  of  the  Ontario  and 
Ridioheu  Niivipition  Cmuinmy,  whioh  tmveiMc  almost  the  whole  length 
ot  Lake  Ontario,  the  fairy  landse  s  of  the  Thon»an.l  Islands,  and  the 
famed  St.  Lawrenee  rapids  (lure,  $10,  nuMvls  an.l  berths  extra)  At 
Sharbot  Lake,  on  the  C.  V.  !{.,  passengers  for  Kin^-ston  take  the  King- 
8ton  and  iVn.broke  J{ailw«y,  running  direet  to  Kingston  (see  page  41) 
Arrived  at  Montn-al  the  tourist  n)ay  go  to  Ottawa  by  either  of  the 
railroads  whieh  eonneet  the  cities,  the  (^ma.lian  Pacific  and  the  (Canada 
Atlantic,  and  return  by  boat  down  the  Ottawa  Hiver. 

The  tourist  who  elects  to  go  to  Ottawa  by  the  C.  ]\  R.  will  travel 
by  one  of  the  best-e(,uipped  and  most  reliable  railroads  in  tho  world 
Mi«  may  take  the  train  at  the  Union  Station,  or  drive  across  the  citv  to 
tlu>  North  Toronto  Depot.     The  first  town  of  importance  after  leading 
Tcm.nt_o  is  Peterboro  on  the  Otonabee  Kiver,  a  thriving  citv  of  about 
S»,(H)0  inhabitants.     This  is  the  birthplace  of  the  famous  "  Peterboro  » 
or  ''  Kicc  Lake"  can,.e;  an.l  tl;c  tourist  who  loves  fishing  and  canoeing 
will  d„  well  to  linger  at  this  p.,int.     The  shores  of  liice  Lake  have  been 
made  illustrious  by  the  resi,lence  of  three  of  those  Strirklands  whose 
names  are  so  well  known  in  the  world  of  letters-Colonel  Strickland,  and 
his  sisters,  Mrs.  Moodie  and  Mrs.  Traill.    The  countrv  about  is  a  tan-de 
of  lakes  and  water-ways,  a  fisherman's  paradise,  and  it  all  lies  at  tho 
foet  of   the  skilltu!  canocMst.     liailway  lines  center  at  Teterboro  from 
halt  a  dozen  directions,  and  the  Otonabee  atfords  an  immense  water- 
power  which  is  utilized  by  many  mills  and  factories.    Among  the  man,.- 
facturcs  of  the  city  are  lumber,  Hour,  cloth,  agricultural  implements 
nmclnnery  and  en-ines,  pottery,  and  leather.     The  river  is  spanned 
by  SIS  bridges,  and  the  juiblic  buildings  arc  numerous  and  handsome 
Ihe  best  hotels  arc  the  Oriental,  Snowdon  House,  and  Grand  Central 

For  100  miles,  between  IVlerboro  and  Perth,  the  road  runs  throu-h 
a  bi-oken  country  rich  in  iron,  phosphate,  asbestos,  and  other  Aaluable 
minerals.     At  the  town  of  Tweed  we  cross  the  Moira  River  whoso 
waters  are  freighted  with  logs  from  the  lumber  regions.     At  Shnrbot 
Lake,  a  famous  resort  for  sportsmen,  the  Kingston  and  Pembroke  I{  li 
IS  crossed.     Perth,  with  a  population  of  4,000,  is  a  prosperous  millin.^ 
town,  with  rich  <piarries  of  building-stone  and  phosphates  in  the  vicin 
ity.     Twelve  nules  beyond  Perth  is  Smith's  Falls  on  the  Rideau  River 
a  junction  town  with  population  of  between  2,000  u.id  8,000     Here  the 
mam  hue  between  Toronto  and  M-ntreal  is  crossed  by  the  line  of  the 
Ottawa  and  Brockville  division,  whose  cars  wo  take  at  this  uoint    Thin. 


FROM   TORONTO    EASTWARD.  37 

teen  miles  farther  on,  at  (.^.rleton  Dace  Junction,  wo  first  strike  the 
man.   ranscontinental  lino  of  the  C.  P.  it.    JVon,  (  uloton  Plao    to  Ot 
awa  is  a  d.Htance  of  2H  ,„i,os.     Before  entering  the  city  t.^    Id  f' 

loT  T  r'  1 '"  '"'•^"*^  ^"«-« «--'  -^  the  1111; 

look    lown  fron.  the  oar  M-indows  upon  vast  st  etclu-s  of  lo4  whToh 
encliamod  in  the  Ion"  circuits  if  ti.,.  "i  „    ,  *=  ' 

Tho  (J...n.l  T      .    u  """"'    *'''"^'^*  '»*^«  t''e  water. 

fhe  (..an,l  Trunk  Ity.  i.et.oon  Toronto  and  Montreal  is  set  thick 
w   h  towns  an<l  ctios  from  start  to  fini.h,  a„,l  gives  one  a  good  da  „f 
the  gouornl  prosj.ority  of  (Canada.     About  23  miles  from  To  nl.l.i 
road  sl...t«  a  lov.y  landlocked  mere,  on  whici;  ofol^TtoIdTr  I 

by  a  growth  ol  flags  and  rushes  that  none  knew  of  its  existence  save 

.andtttsetn  gon.     Here  now  stands  the  town  of  Pickering    the  shel 
e..d  n.crc  has  hecon.  Pickering  Harbor,  and  the  reed-grot'n    ntra'ee 
has  beenwdened  and  deepened  to  admit  the  traffic  of  the  lak       In 
^e  neighborhood  of  Pickering  arc  son.e  fair  pike  and  black  bas,:  waters 
Just  beyond  P.ckering  is  Whitl>y,  the  seat  of  the  Ontario  La  lies'  Co  ' 
ege,  whence  a  branch  line  runs  north,  past  the  town  of  Linds  y  to  ul' 

Zi:;;7.;d :  r"^^^"-  ."""'""•^""  ^^^-^^  --  *•>«  --^^^  «^  -  ^i- 

a     w  il  r^,      ""f,  T'T-     '""'  '^'"  "^^  ^^^•-^•^'"«  --"^1  the  town 
arc  well  stocked  with  brook  trout  and  sahnon  trout,  which  take  the  fly 

freely  from  the  middle  of  May  to  the  end  of  June.    Within  easy   eaoJ 

of  Hahburton  the  hunter  will  find  door,  bear,  moose,  a  d "1 2 

Abt:  4     -I'  "''  ^"'•'"  "'"'  '''''  '"^-^  '^  '--^^  -  '^^  neighbor     od 

About  4  mdes  east  of  Whitby  is  tlio  busy  manufacturing  town  of 

shawa,  wuh  good  fall  duck.hooting  in  the  neighborhood.'  hI    n 

old  days,  was  the  beginning  of  the  portage  from  Ontario  to  slC 

Lake;  and  the  name  O.fuu.a  sin^ply  means  the  earrying-place'        °' 

wriZ  wK;^S:S';^;;;'":':'ir  '"^^^'^  ^^'^^^^^  ^^^  -or. 

Algonquin  era  ti  0  e  of  t  o  T.  ^f  tlements-those  of  the  Iluron- 

oecupalion,  ;  Lose  of  the  Mi  J   'H'' ''n"-:"''"'"' '''«^«  «^  the  French 
the  English  occmntion      t\TT^l''' ^^i'l'^'y  ^^m^i^^t,  md  those  of 

trace  s.frvives  o  '  L  ke  Ontar  o'b Jlrr";  '^""'^"•"  T""^  '^"^  ^'^^ 
After  alternate  faXrrsanrZa^^^^^^  the  name  of  the  lake  itself. 
St.  Louis  and  lIK  U^  llZ?  r  '  ^"^  rechri«tenod  Lake 
ra.iui;  but  thotmndo  like^Z;  1'"'!  I'  f  ^^"^' """^  Lake  Cata- 
jostic  simplicMtv-ot- its  anoitnt  ?  '"'^^  *^  H^'  simph-city-the  ma- 
hundred  ind  skt;^yel"r-t!;r;i.^;;^j,-,,^,^^^^ 

Ontario,  ' the  Great  Lake.'"  " '  *^°^e  more 


.ft 

m 


as 


KK'OM   TOIiONTO    KAHTWAUf), 


Of  thv  Iro,iuoi,s  .l,.mii.,iiloii  ulsi.  hut  f.-w  ii„oo«  ivmHln-u  fow  nono. 
m.M  n.nuo«  liko  Nia«nm  ,uul  Toromo.    Tho  nuv  of  «||,1,.„.,  wlu,  lonlo.l 
It  ovor  Imir  llio  ooiiilmMH.  whom,  iilltaiu'o  w«s  v»^^,'v\^■  n.utfnl  by  Kinnoo 
ami  K..Kl«,ul.  wo,v.  aftor  all,  i.nahlo  lo  MMiintain  (lu-ir  r,».(|„.|,i  agninHt 
n.o  ,l,.spiso.l   Ojihwavs.     Of   ,|u.H...   11,0    Mlssissagas   l„van,o  spodallv 
umi.onms  aii.i  .t.w.vsHivo.  s,.  that   tlioir  tot,,,,,  il».  nano,  was  a  faiuiU 
i««-  l»i<'io^lvphon  our  loivst  tivo..  rn.,„  ,|,o  i„,^.i„„i„i,  of  tl.o  I«>|  n<M- 
tur.v.     0„o   of  tho   oM..st  of   (J,voU  lotfon.ls    volalo.s  tho  war   of  iho 
omuos  and  pvK.nlos.     Though  tho  foos  of  our  uortlioru  nanos  woro 
not  p.v-mlo,s  iMit  KJanls.  t|„.v  possossr.l  not  thooraft  of  (ho  Ilitio  an- 
oio.K.  who  livo.l  hy  (ho  oooanshoro,     Tho  Mississajjas  .s»  n.uKlplJoil 
In  (hoir  nor(horn  nosts  thai   prosonth.  hv  moro  nun.bors.  thoy  ovo.>. 
whohno,i  (ho  liHMiuois.      Most  dosporalo  n.^htinj?  thoro  wim.  an.i  tho 
Imttio  tiohls  wow  ^>till  olourl^v  (raooahlo  whon   Knglish  pionoor.s   iU<st 
l>rt»Ko  gronntl. 

Tho  Mississaj-aj..  (houK'l>  not  on.lowo.l  with  oithor  tho  Mohawk  vorvo 
vM-  intolloot.  woro  no  .ftoiv  ,lostitu(.>  of  pootiy  than  ..f  valor.      I'aUo  tho 
nun.osof  son.o  of  thoir  ohiofs.     Ono  ohhlV  nan.o  si-ni(io,l  "Ho  who 
n.akos  f,H.(stop.M  in  tho  sky  "  ;  anotlior  was  Wawanosh,  '•  llo  wlu)  an.hlos 
tho  wators."    Tho  Uov.  Potor  .louos  «as,  through  his  .nothor.  dosoomlod 
f«tMn  a  t«.u«»us  lino  »>f  pootio  warriors;  his  grandfathor  was  Wanhuno 
"  Tho  Morning  Light."     On  oooasion.  tho  Mis.issaga  oould  oon.o  dow.i 
ti»  pn»so.     Sougtni  divsorihos  (ho  olay  lu.ttou.  and  s.iluuorgod  hanks  of 
(hat  lako,  whioh.  taking  a  stoamor  a(   I'ort   IVrrv.  wo  travorso  on  t)tir 
.>«nn.n»or  oxoursion    to  Lindsay  and  Sturgoon   l.ako.      tM.omono  aptly 
Uiunos  tho  lako  whoso  tlilo  of  silt  s,)n>otiu,os  ovon  ivtanls  (m.^  oanoo 
whon  wo  aro  tishing  or  fowling.    OnuMuoo,  "  tho  wild  pigoon,"  has  givon 
its  nanio  not  tMdy  to  Pigoott  l.ako  and  its  ohiof  ai^uont,  hut   to  (ho 
to^n  whoiv  Pigoou  Civok  lingoi>s  on  its  oourso  to  tho  lako. 

"On  Kioo  Lako,  tho  ohiof  Imlian  sottlonuM.t  is  lUawatlm  nannd 
«»t'M-  tho  llo,vulos  of  Ojih«ay  n.y.holo.^v.  who.n  tho  .Vn"     oa         o 
has  nnn,orta!.rod  ;n  Ins  n.olodious  t.^vhuios.     At    Hiawatha  and'  on 
Nug,»g    l.sland  vou  n,av  stdl    hud,  in   tho  ,»niinarv   lan-ua-o  of   tho 
t»j>'>«ay,  fragu.onts  of  tin.>  in,ag,-ry  and  pioturo-falk.  ofton  in  tho  vorv 
o,>ls  wluoh   Long^;llow  has  so  happily  wovon  into  his  poo.n.      V,: 
tho  s^vnorv  ol  (Ins  I  ,vnt  Valloy  ivpnnluoos  that  of  tho  Valo  of  Tawa- 
sontim      Ho.v  aro  Mlu^  wild  ri.v  of  tho  rivor'  and  'tho  Indian  villauV 
and    tUo  gixnos  ot  su»gu)g  pn>o-t»vos-  ov.>r  siuhinu',  ovor  sin<'in.' '      \t 
KM>olon  hails  wo  havo  tho  'Laughing  Wator.'  and  nut  fa.-  hoiow  is 
N.ug^HM,  Lako.  tho  ,vahn  of  tho  '  Kin-  of  ^ishos.'     Sturgoon  of  nor 
tontous  stro  aiv  yot  .not  with,  though"  t-dli.j-  son.owhaf  short  of  tho 


FROM   TORONTO    KASTWARI). 


89 


ooiuprohoiiHivr  llsh  HiinK  l)y  Lon,,'r..llow,  which  Hwanowcd   lliiiwatlm. 
otiiioc  iinil  all  I  ' 

"  AiiH.!»K'  »''•''*«•  fon>Hts,  too,  (Iwolt  m\vo  Mi'n^\HM(rnm,  that  'mjnhti. 
ONt  of  inu^'lcians/who.  'Kuar.io.l  by  fh*.  I.Iadt  pitch-water,  Hcndstho 
fcvor  rn.m  the  marshes.'  0„r  fatluMs  an.l  Krandlathcrs  knew  this 
muKh-lHu  (.Illy  loo  well ;  IVIt  hiiu,  far  olV,  ati.l  shu<.li  at  his  .....uiiiLr. 
T  U'V  lounht  him,  not  like  Hiawatha  will,  jasp.-r  hca.l.Ml  arrows,  hut 
with  the  woodman's  axe.  [,ike  the  Indian  hero,  our  ph.necr  was  often 
wounded,   weary,  aiul   desponding,   with    his   mittens   torn  and    tut- 

I-caving  Oshnwa,  we  pass  through   nownumvillc,  Newcastle,  N.w- 
tonville,  and  rmch  tho  important  town  of  I»orl  Ilo|i«  (chief  hotels, 
.SY.  A,rH-m»,v  Hull,  *1.M)  f„  ^'2 ;  and  (><r;/',s,  #|.ftO),  picturesipiely  situ- 
utcd  in  a  deep  ravine,  and  busy  with  a  larg<.  lako  trallic.     There  urc 
good  Imtels  at  this  point,  and  within  easy  distance  arc  the  waters  of 
Kitv  Lake,  which  swarm  with  maskinoiige,  black  bass,  and  f-rocn  bass. 
On  Uice  l.nko  tho  Itest  month  for  maskint.ngi'  is  June;  for  bass,  from 
July  to  September.     Soven  miles  beyond  Port  Mope  is  the  university 
town  of  Cobourg,  formerly  the  seat  of  Victoria  ('olh>K»,  which  is 
now  umttlgan.ated  with  Toronto  I'nivorsity.     Fortunately  for  (\)bourg, 
it  is  something  more  than  a  university  town.    Cobourg  niust  rely  hence- 
forth ontlivly  on  her  manufactures  and  her  trad(>,  her  car-wcirks  and 
hor  breweries.     Rice  Liiko  may  conveniently  be  reached  from  (\)bo»irg 
by  the  t^tmvdian  Pacitie  and   Montreal   H.  R.,  or  by  stage  to  Gere's 
Landing.     The  next  important  p«)int  after  leaving  (V.bourg  is  Trenton, 
»»n  the  river  Trent.     Here  the  <Jrand  Trunk  is  crossed  by  tho  lines  of 
the  Ontario  tVntral,  which  runs  down  the  beautiful  peninsula  of  Trinec 
Kdward  I'ounty  to  Picton.     The  Trent  River  is  the  outlet  of  Rice  Lake, 
and  empties  into  the  Ray  of  (iuinti>  at  its  head. 

Reyond  Trenton  lies  the  city  of  liolloville,  beautiful  in  its  sur- 
roundings  and  in  its  handsonu>  and  shaded  stre.>ts.  Relleville  has  a 
ju.pulation  of  about  I'J.OOO,  aiul  is  full  of  activity  and  enterprise.  Its 
chief  hotels  are  the  /u/A-  //e»,sr,  itSl.r.O;  Aiu,h.A,„n'H-a„,^\.hy)',  and 
Vommn-aal,  ^\.  It  has  tine  public  buildings,  aiul  is  the  seat  of  Alex- 
andra (\>ll,.ge  and  of  the  Provincial  Institution  for  Doaf-Mutes.  The 
city  was  named  in  honor  of  Arabella,  wife  of  (iovernor  (Jore.  It  stands 
on  the  shores  of  the  exipnsitc  Ray  of  Quinte,  whose  waters  teem  with 
all  iiclights  for  the  fisherman,  and  wlioso  changeful  and  delicious  land- 
scapes will  h)ng  tielay  the  traveler. 

Th.e  best  way  to  vit^it  Picton,  at  the  extremity  of  Prince  Edward 


40 


PKf>M  TORONTO    KAATWAKI). 


•■'  'he  M, ,.i„,  which  „jr,r  "•"'■''"••■'■"  """  ■^">«»«lc  Ut. 

lion  l>..t»,.,.i,  il,,.,,,     „,,„,  ,f ,   'J"'""^""'  «  "i.y»tmo,„  i,„„ „i,„. 

"'"lo  i»  ,.  ivmcr  of  ,h»  (l„„r  „' j  '  """' V'""'  """  "'"  "V-  D->,o. 
«~<  boani,  „„,,;.,:'  ;',,t''";V''"™  »•■'"•"'  "P  i"'"  plank, 
nmsin  of  ,!,„  ;,r™t  B,a„t  „„,|  ,i„.     '""'"""<.'''"''  »f  "ic  ln,t  wiituiy,  a 

<^n.  cx.T<..„ilv  of  th,.  Read,  th..  hlTj  ,      "        "'''     '"  ""-'  "•"«'- 

«».v,  «.  .h„  head  of  ,vh       1    '!,  'T:.."™"  •"«""■"  '»  '""«  l'i«o.. 

•1.0  peninsula  ia  an  int..ro,ti,„  ..i,  "'"  '"l""'".''!  «i.io  of 

*•"•»."  IV  ..n„ ;;:'-;''  rT""",''',""""  •" "-  "«•»••- 

«''...•  "Loftv  ridf-o,  of  .am,   .1  7"-"'  '"  ^'"""■^'i"^  Can. 

-now.  were  o..i,.i:,all,„     It    '''*■'     ■""  °  "'*"""  "^  »""«  - 

on  .h.  adjaoone  fa™.  „.  .ho  Z'o  I.^'^mTV'""  ""  """"""•"■"'' 
•gen.  in  .ho  „,„v,„,en,  appoa,!  "„  h°  h  ^^  "  ■■™''-  ''''"'•'"■'■' 
'«..gle..hosa„d„„d„,r,.ioli,  „,aj'  ,,,'"""'''  """»■  "''W'  ""• 
be  found  a  short,  distance  do.,  '"'  ''"'"■"  '*''•''  ^o*  "'"y 

«u«  points  Of  th  ta„r,;:r',r"''' ''"'■''™'"' "■»'''"• '•■■i- 

interesting.    |,  „„s  '  ".hi    """°  '"»•'■.  '"».  »ig  S,„dv  Bay  is  n,o,. 

•ee«  .be  Kent,  m;z'::~i;:;,  T '"'"" ''"'  ^^^' «« ^■■ 

-^^f"'4:r «::  '::;:;::"•  .""■"■^,  "■■""■'  ■^"'"''-  '^  "-■  "-^™' 

»r  name  is  derived  frnm  ♦!.«   ^i-    • 

.V««-^,„.„«,/,  „,|ncl,  signifies  "flonr"     1     k     V       ^^'^'^'^''^'^ga  ^o^d 
-  -P.nee.s  .ade,  .he",.,;  i,  t,,  a^^r  ^ITo^,  iX 


KINGSTON. 


41 


KingRton. 

or  .hit;  :::";L:re;;!rr7r  ,"°^ ""°  •-»  ^'-  ---o 

.0  e».al,li,h  a  f„„  and  t,,uH  i^" .  "  <">™™or>,  of  New  France, 

1"8  .™.8  Where  now  g,„nd  the  7a,  *  /.",  .!       ,,  *'""™°"  '"'^l'"-! 

the  fort,  which  snoedilv  ro«n  „.,j     .u  '^'"■'  ™nira»nd  of 

nac,  w.;  .»»i,„ed   o  t  ,e  Z«  '^^™''-««'"  "i-"^'--,  of  fVonto. 

paned  to  ieove;  .h  r„  e  to  t,  o  "„,r7r"'  ""  ''•  '^""«  "- 
h«..ds  of  a  traitor  i„  Te,„,  n  Jl  ,1  °  *''"""''  '""^  *•"  '•y  "-o 
vine.  Fort  Frontcnac  waslhe  *:'  !!  ,°T""'  "'  *  "'■""'■ 
part  of  the  French  tow.rd  ,T  T  "  °'  '«»''l>"y  on  the 

vengeance  «p»  New T  1  '""""■^''-h  O^'Sh.  down  terrible 
pretext  of  a  eonferelce  rre^nr  T"'  °'  '™'"'™»  ""■'='».  """^ 
loaded  with  chain™^'  :::  ;t  T  "'  '"''  """""^  """^  «- 
in  the  galleys.  The  retort  ^fT  7  '""^  ""  """"■  »"«  "-eir  live, 
JToneh  .ettlement,  t  ,e  c  p"n«  a  d  H  7T  "'  ""^  ""''""'  »'  '"" 
.1.0  .nidnigh.  .nasJacre  1  r  wZZ  "'  f "  """"'^"''"'  '°<' 
of  De  Oenonville  had  bm„„l„  v      I  "caknesa  and  treache.y 

0....0  back  and  Jl'ttLr,  r^'r''"^  «rait,,  Frontenal 
«%>oar,of  peace  b  4n  .het tZ    ""'"  J"  '°™"'=  '•°«'  «»<' 

™,"1.    The  fort  was  JpIrXXtj  n',  ^r  r"'  '" -f  "^ 

J       V i..^.aieet  ill  ivoK.     There- 


i!i 


42 


KINGSTON. 


af  or  the  place  foil  into  forgotfuh.oHH,  from  which  it  did  ,.ot  emorffe 
ill  the  end  of  the  Revolutio.mry  War,  wh.n  a  party  of  Unitcnl  Empire 
Loyal.st.M  chose  the  fair  site  for  a  settlement,  and  in  their  zeal  Cata- 
r«(,.n  bccan.e  Kin^^.town,  afterward  shortened  to  Kingston.     When  the 
War  of  1812  broke  out,  Kingston  can.e  into  prou.inence  as  the  stron-^. 
est  Canadian  post  on  the  lake,  the  chief  rival  to  the  American  strong, 
hold  of  Sackett's  Harbor.     Fort  Henry  was  con.menced,  and  a  f(.r- 
nndable  battle-ship,  the  St.  Lawrence,  was  built  in  the  Kingston  Dock- 
yard.    So  hard  was  it  for  the  n.other-country  to  realize  that  any  good 
thmg  could  come  out  of  a  colony,  that  this  ship  was  built,  at  a  cost 
of  tf.()0,().)0,  with  tiu.bers  sent  out  from   England  for  the  purpose. 
At  this  period  the  town  was  surrounded  by  a  chain  of  block-houses 
connected   by  a  picket   stockade.      These   block-houses   subsequently 
were  supplanted  by  stone  batteries  and  martello  to—rs  which    how 
ever  ineffective  they  might  be  against  modern  artillery,  nevertheless 
a^ld  greatly  to  the  martial  air  of   Kingston  as  seen  from  the  water. 
\\hen  Upper  Cana<la  was  erected  into  a  province,  Governor  Simcoe 
was  sworn  into  office  at  Kingston,  an<l  from  this  point  were  issued 
writs  for  the  convening  of  the  first  Provincial  Parliament,  which  met 
however,  as  has  been  already  stated,  at  Niagara.     When  Upper  and 
Lower  Canada  were  united  in  1840,  Kingston  was  made  the  seat  of 
government,  and  the  Legislature  occ.pled  the  building  now  employed 
as  the  City  Hospital.     Only  for  tour  years,  however,  was  Kingston  suf- 
fered  to  enjoy  this  proud  distinction ;  and  in  1844  the  departure  of  the 
Government  and  its  officials  left  the  "Limestone  City"  in  a  slough  of 
commercial  and  social  despond. 

Now,  however,  Kingston  has  entered  anew  upon  an  era  of  pros- 
perity.    She  is  the  outlet  for  the  traffic  of  the  Rideau  Canal,  and,  which 
18  vastir  more  important,  for  that  of  the  Kingston  and  Pembroke  R  R 
which  opens  up  a  district  of  immense  mineral  wealth.     She  has  become 
a  great  educational  center.     Here  is  Queen's  University,  which  has  be- 
eome,  under  Principal  George  M.  Grant,  one  of  th.  most  successful  and 
well-conducted  institutions  of  learning  in  Canada.     Here  also  is  the 
Ropal  MiHtarn  College,  the  West  Point  of  Canada,  where  the  cadets 
get  a  trammg  the  efficiency  of  which  is  well  recognized  in  sister  colonies 
and  ,n  the  mother-country.     Kingston  is  also  the  seat  of  the  Royal 
Co  ege  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons,   and  of  the   Women's   Medical 
College,  both  of  which  are  affiliated  with  Queen's  University     The 
buddings  of  "Queen's"  are  the  chief  architectural  ornament  of  Kin^s- 


KINGSTON. 


43 


ton      The  individuality  of  Kingston  i«  thus  effectively  described  by  a 
diHtingnished  Canadian  writer : 

iHt's"  e!il'  '^E'ri^;!''''"/  1  ""''^'^':^  '''••'*'  ""*  "nplcn«lng  to  the  tour- 
ist8  e>o.     Ihcro  i.s   the  fort  crowning  the   L'Jaoi.s     Fiilf  in  fronf    n 

I mitcu  toi  arti  lory  i.s  ready  to  sweep  t'le  water.     Ti,o  oinbrasurfM  .,f 

w/:?  i"'i"';!r'  ¥„!.'"■■ '"""""' r "'°  -""'""^ ""«-;;",  „ 

BH|  or  iiie  r.uboi.  Iho  cannon  controntH  the  loeoinotive  •  nml  «f 
embh.m  of  our  tin.e  a  solitary  warder  guards  the  de  ay  ng  for?  wime 

1,  loved'"  Tho'r'^'"'''  '-T-''''  '*"'  ^"'^  ''''  ■skilled  workmen  are 
employed  The  tower,  with  its  conical  red  cap  and  circlin-  wall  of 
eonipact  ball-proof  masonry,  looks  well.  It  would  ha  4  "c'ued  th.! 
Iro,juo.8  It  could  have  defied  the  raiders  of  18  "2  SnsTmod e  n 
artillery  ,t  ,8  as  good  as  an  argue  fnm.  Hard  bri.  the  MUitarTvr 
lege   .,th  Its  100  on  20  red  Wed,  whiteheln.eted  cadets.     Where  the 

0  ive-gK.en  of  Catara.jui  (Veek  blends  with  the  blue  of  the  bav  still 
stand  the  old  naval  barracks,  where  Tom  Rowling  a.  d  N^d  IJu'n  in 
were  won  to  toast  'sweethearts  and  wives.'  A  Httle  up  the  creek  is 
Barn.held  Common,  once  gay  with  the  pon,p  and  c  rcumstance  oJ 
glonous  war,  but  now  seldom  marched  ovel  by\„yt InnT™  „  w  '*[ 
than  the  villagers'  geese.  Frou,  the  common  a  causewav  near  v  L^ 
a  m,le  long,  extends  across  the  creek  to  the  71V   X  pL  Ka'k  ^ 

1  hanks  to  the  gentlemen  cadets  and  batterv-nien,  the  streets  of  Klnt 
8ton  stdl  have  a  sprinkling  of  red,  white,  and  blue.''  ^' 

Six  miles  up  the  placid  windings  of  the  Cataraqui  stream  we  enter 
a  deep  gorge,  whose  .  cky  banks,  almost  overhanging,  are  richly 
clothed  wuh  vines.  Here  we  meet  the  foamy  rush  of  a  little  cascade 
and  here  ,s  the  entrance  to  the  Rideau  Canal,  whose  sedgy  waters' 
the  haunt  of  innumerable  mallard  and  teal,  afford  the  canoeist  an  en! 
chantmg  path  through  the  Rideau  Lakes  to  Ottawa.  On  Long  Island 
m  one  of  these  lakes,  is  erected  a  fine  hotel  called  the  Lake  Rideau  Fhk 
Vltib  House. 

The  tourist  who  is  not  in  an  inordinate  hurry  to  reach  Montreal 
mil  take  the  steamer  at  Kingston  if  he  has  come  thus  far  by  rail  •  for 
the  river  trip  between  Kingston  and  the  commercial  metropolis  of 
Canada  IS  one  of  the  most  attractive  on  the  continent.  As  the  steamer 
rounds  Port  Hill,  and  passes  Cedar  Island,  we  find  ourselves  ^airly  in 
he  channel  ot  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  this  point  about  U  miles  ,n  width 
If  one  wishes  to  "do  "  the  Thousand  Islands  thoroughly,  it  is  best  to 
stop  off  at  the  village  of  Gananoque,  around  whose  shores  the  islands 
appear  to  swarm.  The  name  Ganan,>que  signifies  "  rocks  in  deep 
water.       The  town  stands  on  a  small  river  of  the  same  nnmP  ;«  wJj 


44 


THE  TIIOUHANI)  ISLANDS. 


supplied  with  l.otolB,  and  ha8  good  innHkinongc  and  blaok-bnHs  fishing 
in  m  neigliborhood. 

The  Thousand  iNlandn. 

The  Thousand  UlandH  are  really  n.iiny  more  than  a  thoiiHand  In 
number,  there  beiuK  about  1,800  of  them  Iar^;e  and  wmall,  in  a  stretch 
of  about  40  milen.     The  Indians  call  the  i .  ^Mon  Manatoana-"  the  (iar- 
den  of  the  Great  Spirit."     The  islands  are  all  of  that  formation  which 
the  Rcolofriats  call  gray  gneiss.     Through  the  inn.nnerable  labyrinths 
that  divide  them  the  current  of  the  great  river  Hows  with  varying 
mpidity.     In  some  of  the  channels  it  is  a  fc.aming  torrent,  while  in 
others  the  gently- moving  tide  is  as  smooth  as  a  sununer  pool.     The 
islands  present  the  greatest  variety  of  effect.     Some  arc   high   and 
precipitous,  others  barely  lift  their  heads  above  the  Mly-pa-is  that  encii^ 
cle  them.     Some  are  as  naked  as  if  their  granite  frames  had  just  come 
from  the  primeval  fires;  others  are  topped  with  pine  and  fir,  or  softly 
rounded  with  the  foUage  of  vines  and  shrubbery.     Some  are  dotted 
with  cottages,  or  the  tents  of  camping  parties.     Several  of  the  islets 
are  built  up  with  fantastic  structures,  pagodas,  and  fairy  bridges,  till 
they  look  as  if  they  had  just  stepped  off  an  old  blue  "  willow;  attern  " 
F>late.     Hither  and   thither  among  them  dart  the  trim  craft  of  the 
canoeists,  for  here  it  is  they  most  do  congregate ;    and  in  many  a 
sluggish  eddy  or  sheltered  bay  may  be  seen  the  punt  of  him  that  'lies 
in  wait  for  maskinonge.     The  landscape  is  like  Egypt's  incomparable 
Queen,  for  "age  can  not  wither  it  nor  custom  stale  its  infinite  variety." 
With  every  change  of  sky  and  cloud  the  scene  changes,  and  unexpected 
colors,  lights,  and  shades  descend  upon  the  isles  and  water  reaches. 

But  not  always  were  the  Thousand  Islands  such  a  region  of  enchant- 
ment,  o-  else  the  eyes  of  the  old  French  explorers  were  blinded  by  weari- 
ness after  their  struggles  with  the  fierce  rapids  farther  down  the  stream. 
In  a  report  of  an  expedition  against  the  Mohawks  in  1665,  M.  de  Cour- 
celles  asserts  that  "they  have  nothing  agreeable  bevoud  their  multi- 
tude,"  and  that  tney  "are  only  huge  rocks  rising  out  of  the  water,  cov- 
ered merely  by  moss,  or  a  few  spruce  or  other  stunted  woo  I,  whose 
roots  spring  from  the  clefts  of  the  rocks,  which  can  supply  no  other 
aliment  or  moisture  to  these  barren  trees  than  what  the  rains  furnish 
them."     From  this  it  would  seem  that  the  luxuiiant  vegetation  that 
now  lends  the  islands  so  much  of  their  charm  was  lacking  to  them  two 
centuries  ago.    It  is  certain,  however,  that  the  tourist  who  passes  has- 


li! 


2 

S 


til 

m 
to 

BO 

Tl 
Pc 
les 
Re 
iih 
Ka 
cet 

8WI 

pos 
hoi 
anc 
low 
Pai 
the 
Ba 
the 
the 
out 
beg 
Bay 
Dr. 

the 
the 
This 
aboi 
nam 
exec 
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laltei 
salm 
cock 
coun 


THE   THOUSAND    ISLANDS. 


45 


tily  through  the  Thousand  Islands  will  miss  their  chief  beauties,  ai.d 
may  even  find  the  very  numbers  of  them  monotonous. 

As  might  be  expected,  the  scenery  of  the  Thousand  Islands  is 
touched  with  the  charm  of  many  an  old  romance.  They  inspired  the 
song  of  Tom  Moore,  and  one  of  them  is  the  scene  of  Cooper's  story, 
The  Pathfinder.  Among  their  mazes  a  British  ship,  the  Sir  Robert 
Peel,  was  burned  in  1838  by  a  band  of  American  outlaws  under  the 
leadership  of  one  "  IJill  Johnson,"  who  aspired  to  establish  a  Canadian 
Republic.  This  romantic  desperado  was  saved  from  the  indignant 
clutches  of  the  law  by  a  picturesque  and  dauntless  girl,  his  daughter 
Kate,  who  rowed  him  from  one  hiding-place  to  another  as  each  in  suc- 
cession grew  too  hot  for  him. 

On  one  of  the  largest  of  the  islands,  known  as  Wells's  Island,  is  the 
swaiming  summer  resort  of  the  Thousand  Island  Park,  with  its 
post-office,  public  buildings,  and  stoi.  8,  and  its  water-side  street  of  boat- 
houses.     This  is  the  famous  camp-meeting  ground  of  the  Methodists, 
and  here  religion  and  relaxation  are  most  alluringly  combined.    At  the 
lower  end  of  the  island  is  the  somewhat  quieter  resort  of  Westminster 
Park,  also  under  religious  control ;  and  directly  opposite  the  island,  on 
the  American  mainland,  and  not  under  religious  control,  is  Alexandria 
Bay,  the  "Saratoga  of  the  St.  Lawrence."    Hence,  it  may  be  seen  that 
the  Thousand  Islands  stand  in  little  need  of  the  romance  of  old,  for 
the  makers  of  romance  are  among  them  the  summer  long,  and  turn 
out  their  enchanting  though  transitory  product  in  an  abundance  that 
beggars  reckoning.     On  a  promontory,  near  the  landing  at  Alexandria 
Bay,  stands  the  villa  known  as  Bonnie  Castle,  the  residence  of  the  late 
Dr.  J.  G.  Holland. 

After  the  steamer  emerges  from  the  clustering  isles  it  swings  up  to 
the  wharves  of  BrockviUe,  the  Thousand  Island  City.  Brockville  is 
the  river  terminus  of  the  Ottawa  and  Brockville  branch  of  the  C.  P.  R. 
This  beautiful  little  city,  whose  gilded  towers  and  spires  glitter  fairly 
above  the  billows  of  foliage  that  screen  its  comely  thoroughfares,  was 
named  after  the  hero  of  Qu(5enston  Heights.  Brockville  is  supplied  with 
excellent  hotels,  such  as  the  ^t.  Lawrence  Hall,  Revere  House,  and  Gra7id 
Central  Hotel  In  the  river,  at  this  point,  and  in  the  neighboring 
lakes  of  Charleston  and  Ridout,  there  is  good  fishing  for  black  bass", 
salmon  trout,  pickerel,  pike,  and  maskinonge ;  and  duck,  plover,  wood' 
cock,  snipe,  and  partridge  are  fairly  abundant  in  the  surroundincv 
country.  ° 


40 


THE  TllorsANI)    IKI,ANf)H. 


I  wolvo  miles  boyoiul  Hr.K.lvvill,.  stan.ls  tl.o  town  „f  VivmM,  whence 
II  bnii.eli  li„e  of  the  Canadian  I'aeilie  nins  diieet  to  Ottawa.     ()„  «  point 
of  land  ahout  a  mile  below   l»ieHe<»tt  Htands  the  historie  "Wind- 
mill,"  a  white  HtoM.«  tower  pierced  with  loopholes,  and  now  soivinK  as 
.i  liK'hthouse.     In  November,  mi,  the  "Win.lmill"  was  the  Heeneofa 
foolish  but  pathetie  tragedy.     It  was  seizc-d  by  a  little  band  ,»f  self- 
Htvled- Patriots  "u„d..r  the  leadership  of  a  I'olish  exiU.  named  Von 
MiMltz.     Mein-  made  the  to.d  of  knav,.s  ami  a.lventuvers  in  safe  refuire 
aeross  the  border,  N'on  Sludtz  was  deeeived  into  the  belief  that  ('an- 
ada  was  -roanin^  nn.h-r  an  intol(«rabIe  tyranny,  and  that  ho  was  called 
t«»  delner  her  fron,   tlu'  yoke.     With  his  brave  but  lanu-ntably  n.is- 
KuhUmI  foIlow.Ms  In.  held  the  null  f,u-  souu-  days  „jf,unst  the  Canadian 
forces  under  Colonel   Dundas.     Duriufr  .ho  fij^l.t  th..  An.oriean  shore 
«»Pposite  WHS  crowded  with  spectators,  who  lent  the  insurKcnts  the  safe 
and  cheap  assistance  of  their  sympathy.     Compelled  at  length  to  sur- 
render at  discretion,  the  unhappy  Vou  Shultz,  with  U  others  of  the  110 
prisoners,  was  tried  by  court-martial  at  F..it  Henry  and  put  to  death 
(m  the  pillows. 

Helow  Prescott  the  calm  blue  reaches  (»f  the  river  present  little  vari- 
oty  till  the  <Jnl«ups  Rnpids  are  reached.     Here  the  awakening  water 
writhes  and  foams,  ami  we  feel  a  tremor  in  the  timbers  of  our  sturdy 
oratt;  but  the  rapids  are  not  violent,  aiul  merely  serve  as  a  foretaste  of 
those  to  be  encountered  farther  on.    Parallel  with  the  "  (laloups  "  runs 
a  small  canal,  at  the  h»wer  end  of  which  lies  the  thriving  village  of 
(  nrdimil.     l>oon  the  spires  of  .Morrisbnrg  rise  above  its  embowering 
trees,  and  round  a  curve  of  the  shore,  between  islands  softly  wooded 
with  white  birch,  our  steamer  sweeps  through  the  low,  green,  sin-ing 
waves  of  the  l{apid  du  IMat.     Two  miles  and  a  half  below  the  villa-n' 
near  a  little  promontory,  the  shore  is  broken  bv  an  irregular  ravine' 
The  country  all  about  is  a  vision  of  peace,  of  orchards  and  .p.iet  home- 
stcails  and  meadows  deep  with  grass,  ami  bits  of  wooiihuul  spared  dis- 
creetly by  the  axe.    Vet  the  scene  is  one  of  heroic  memories,  and  every 
Canadian  heart  thrills  to  look  upon  it.     In  the  ravine,  and  ,.n  the  up- 
lands ab.»ut  it,  was  fought  the  bravely  contested  battle  of  Chrysler's 
Farm,  on  November  11,  18l;{.     ()„  the  one  side  was  the  American  in- 
vad.ng  torcc.  on  the  other  a  litt!e  army  of  Cauad  an  volunteers  with  a 
handtui  of  Hritish  regulars.     The  issue  of  the  battle  was  long  nncer- 
tani,  but  the  Hnal  result  was  a  decisive  victory  for  the  Canadians. 


THE   RAPIDH    OF   THE   ST.    LAWUKNCE. 


47 


The  RnpidN  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

From  Cl.ryHlcM'H  Kann  onward  we  ,„hh  a  succcHHion  of  pretty  vil. 
lagoB  and  b.ts  of  peaceful  lan.lscape,  till,  Jn„t  as  the  n.onotony  of  sweet- 
.u'HH  .H  beK.nn.ng  to  pall  upon  tl.e  eye,  ti.c  current  Muiekens  and  hi.h 
.-ocks  app,..u-  alouK  tl.e  shores.     We  are  entering  the  splendid  rapid  of 
the  LOHK  S««,t  by  far  the  grandest,  if  not  the  nuL  excitin,  rapid 
of   he  ehan..     It  ,s  a  novelty  indeed  to  fin.l  a  large  steau.er  t<.ssed  to 
and  Iro  hke  a  I.ttle  eoekboat,  and  buffeted  by  huge  billows  whieh  make 
!<"'•  ,u,ver  from  sten,  to  stern.     Other  rapi.ls  have  swifter  sweeps  or 
sharper  turns,  but  this  boars  away  the  pain.  fnur.  all  in  the  si  Jand 
glory  of  .ts  waves.     The  roaring  channel  is  divided  by  a  somber  and 
Inel  ly  wooded  island.     The  northern  passage  is  called  Lost  Channel 
a      there  .s  no  path  th.ough  its  shouting  mbble  of  high  white  waves' 
tha   ehunber  upon  each  other  and  seen,  to  race  up-stream.    The  steamer 
dashes  ...to  the  white  and  eme.ald  tu....,oil  of  tl.e  South  Channel  and 
drenched  nth  sp,.ay,  plunges  with  a  galloping  motion  down  the  Tong 
neh^u>  t.ll  .t  ..ests  .n  s.nooth  water  under  tl.e  steep  sides  of  the  island 

Ol   Ot.  JiCglS. 

Iloab  a»c.,.,„ii„„  the  St.  Lawrono.  got  a,-„„„,l  tl,e  Long  S„„l,  b, 

:;:":,'"  "'■■""""  ''"'""•  ■" '""  '""■'■'■ """ "'  •"-•'■  '"">•'-"- 

busy  n.anufacturing  town  of  Co.-nwjill      AtH.;..    -^  . 

.  „  "  v^oinwaii.     At  this  point  we  pass   nto  the 

p.ov.„ee  of  Quebec,  and  at  this  point  also  the  s/.  Lawrence  .e2  tc 
fom  the  boundary  between  Canada  and  the  United  States,  for  the  di- 
vid.ng  line  recedes  sharply  to  the  eastwanl.  The  shores  ;,f  the  river 
sp.-ead  apa,.t  to  forn.  Lake  St.  Francis,  with  the  little  town  of  Lancas- 
er  on  the  left  coast  ami  the  settlements  of  Dundee  and  Fort  Coving. 

nils  ot  tha U-auguay,  on  which  tl.e  eye  rests  with  delight  after  the  low 

TiT:;  .;«;■"■ '"  "^^  ^"'"'^'  •"  *""'^^'  ^""^  '^^^^  ••-  ^'-  ^^t. 

t  c-he  d  of  Chateauguay,  where  De  Salaber.y  an.l  his  handful  of 

r  or  force  of  American  n.ilitia.  At  the  foot  of  the  lake  is  the  .piaint 
Jrench  Camuha..  village  of  Coteau  du  Lac,  with  its  stragglin.  IZl 
street  us  long  b.-own  wooden  pier,  its  ohl-fashioned  b^ats,  "an     ilie 

Awl;  t?;;:"'  '::  r*  '^''""  ^""'•^"  -^'''''^^  '^  ^'ory  over  t'he  scene 
Awa>  to  the  outh  hes  cotton-spinning  ValleyHeld,  at  tl.e  head  of  the 
Beauharnois  Canal.  When  the  lake  is  fairlv  left  bohmd  the  ^hor !' 
grow  more  abrupt,  the  current  dips  and  begins  to' dart' and  twist- 


48 


THE   RAPID8   OF   THE   8T.    LAWRENCE. 


and  we  plunge  through  the  rapid  of  "  The  Cedars,"  where  the  rich 
foliage  sweeps  down  to  the  flying  waters.  Then  more  quiet  reaches 
are  traversed,  and  we  come  to  the  beautiful  "  Cascades,"  where  the 
clamoring  waves  flash  high  and  thin  among  the  rocky  islets  that  break 
the  channel.  Ere  the  excitement  of  the  descent  has  died  away  we 
come  out  on  the  broad  breast  of  Lake  St.  Louis,  where  the  St.  Law- 
rence widens  to  give  fitting  reception  to  its  mighty  tributary  the  Ottawa. 
The  waters  of  this  great  stream,  drawn  from  its  somber  hills  of  pine  and 
fir,  are  of  a  brown  color  that  defines  itself  sharply  against  the  clearer 
and  bluer  tide  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Away  to  the  left  is  the  village 
of  St.  Anne,  made  forever  musical  by  the  Canadian  Boat  Song  of  Tom 
Moore : 

Faintly  as  tolls  the  evening  chime, 
Our  voices  keep  tune,  and  our  oars  keep  time. 
Soon  as  the  woods  on  the  shore  look  dim, 
We'll  sing  at  St.  Anne's  our  parting  hymn. 
Row,  brothers,  row  !  the  stream  runs  fast. 
The  rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight's  past  I 

■Why  should  we  yet  our  sail  unfurl  ? 
There  is  not  a  breath  the  blue  waves  to  curl. 
But  when  the  wind  blows  off  the  shore. 
Oh  !  sweetly  we'll  rest  our  weary  oar. 
Blow,  breezes,  blow  !  the  stream  runs  fast. 
The  rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight's  past  I 

Ottawa's  tide  !  this  trembling  moon 
Shall  see  us  float  o'er  thy  surges  soon. 
Saint  of  this  green  isle  !  hear  our  prayers  ; 
Oh,  grant  us  cool  heavens  and  favoring  airs  ! 
Blow,  breezes,  blow  !  the  stream  runs  fast. 
The  rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight's  past ! 

On  the  horizon  ahead  rises  a  bold,  blue  mass  which  we  recognize  as 
"  the  Mountain "  of  Montreal.  Soon  other  purple  masses  em'erge  to 
keep  it  company,  the  summits  of  Mounts  Shefford,  Belwil,  and  St.  John, 
and  we  reach  the  Indian  village  of  Caughnawaga,  the  home  of  the  fa- 
mous Lacrosse-players.  The  steamer  slows  up  to  take  aboard  a  pilot, 
and  our  hearts  beat  quicker  as  we  realize  that  the  great  rapid  of 
Lachine  is  at  hand. 

This  famous  rapid  is  less  impressive  in  its  surroundings  than  the 
Long  Sault ;  it  lacks  the  absolute  beauty  of  the  chiming  and  dancing 
"  Cascades  " ;  but  it  is  far  more  awe-inspiring  than  either.  It  makes 
one  catch  one's  breath  with  a  sense  of  imminent  peril.    The  descent 


IS' 


OTTAWA. 


49 


has  been  thus  vividly  described :  "  Suddenly  a  scene  of  wild  grandeur 
bursts  upon  the  eye.     Waves  arc  lashed  into  spray  and  into  breakers 
of  a  thousand  forms  by  th^  submerged  rocks,  which  they  are  dashed 
agamst  m  the  headlong  impetuosity  of   the  river.      Whirlpools    a 
storm-lashcd  sea,  the  chasm  below  Niagara,  all  mingle  their  sublim'ity 
in  a  smgle  rapid.     Now  passing  with  lightning  speed  within  a  few 
yards  of  rocks  which,  did  your  vessel  but  (ouch  them,  would  reduce 
her  to  an  utter  wreck  before  the  crash  could  sound  upon  the  ear- 
did  she  ever  diverge  in  the  least  from  her  coursc-if  her  head  were 
not  kept  straight  with  the  course  of  the  rapid  -she  would  be  instantly 
submerged  and  rolled  over  and  over.     Before  us  is  an  absolute  preci- 
pice of  waters;  on  every  side  of  it  breakers,  like  dense  avalanches 
are  thrown  high  into  the  air.     Ere  we  can  take  a  glance  at  the  scene' 
the  boat  descends  the  wall  of  waves  and  foam  like  a  bird,  and  in  J 
seco.d  afterward  you  are  floating  on  the  calm,  unruffled  bosom  of 
below  the  rapids.' " 

^    Presently  we  pass  the  wooded  shores  of  Nun's  Island,  and  the  stately 
city  of  Montreal  lies  before  us. 


Ottawa. 

Toward  dayeet,  where  the  journeying  sun  grown  old 
Hangs  lowly  westward  darker  now  than  gold, 
With  the  soft  sun-touch  of  the  yellowing  hours 

Made  lovelier,  I  see  with  dreaming  eyes, 

Even  as  a  dream  out  of  a  dream,  arise 
The  bell-tongued  city  with  its  glorious  towers. 

A.  Lampman. 

/7.«?***®J*>r'^^f  r*?".^^  ''''*^''  ^^  0"^^^  a^e  the  RmseV,  Windsor 
ff^ouse  'and  Grand  llmon;  rates  from  $2  to  |4  a  day.  The  clubs  aJe 
the  Rideau  and  West  End.     Chief  restaurants :  The  B^gaCham 

Thf  n  I  n  ■  5"^'*'^^  «  L^i^»'ar>/  and  Scmiii/ic  SocieUj.  Theatre  • 
The  Grand  Opera-House.  Horse-cars  connect  the  city  with  towns 
across  the  nver  (fare,  5c.).     Population  (estimated),  45,000 

We  will  suppose  that  the  tourist  has  taken  the  direct  route  from 
Toronto  to  Ottawa-that  by  the  Canadian  Pacific,  already  described 
If  he  has  gone  firs,  to  Montreal,  he  may  go  thence  to  OtUuva  by 
the  Canadian  Pacific,  the  Canada  Atlantic,  or  by  boat  up  the  Odaa.. 
River.  We  should  advise  the  route  up  by  rail,  and  the  return  hy 
boat,     raking  the  Canadian  Pacific,  a  number  of  picturesque  places 


»£ 


60 


OTTAWA. 


are  passed.  From  Ste.  Theresa  a  branch  line  runs  to  the  fishing  re- 
sort  of  Lachute  aux  Iroquois.  The  first  branch  of  the  Ottawa  is 
crossed  at  Ste.  Anne's,  once  the  home  of  the  poet  Moore.  Ottawa, 
the  capital  of  the  federated  provinces  of  Canada,  is  in  the  province 
of  Ontario,  on  the  south  shore  of  the  Ottawa  River,  126  miles  from 
its  mouth.  For  picturesque  grandeur  the  nite  of  Ottawa  is  second 
only  to  that  of  Quebec.  At  this  point  the  great  river  roars  down  into 
the  terrific  caldron  of  Chaudihe  Falk,  to  whose  vindictive  deity  the 
Indians  of  old  were  wont  to  make  propitiatory  offerings  of  tobacco. 
At  this  point  also  the  Ottawa  is  joined  by  its  tributary,  the  Hideau 
River,  which  flows  in  over  a  fall  of  wonderful  grace  and  beauty.  The 
shifting,  curtain-like  folds  of  this  cascade  give  the  river  its  name  of 
Rideau,  or  the  "  Curtain." 

Like  Quebec,  Ottawa  consists  of  an  Upper  and  a  Lower  Town.  In 
the  double  city  flows  a  double  life— the  life  of  a  rich  capital  and  the 
life  of  R  rafting  and  milling  center— the  life  of  that  society  that  clusters 
around  iiie  governinent  and  the  life  of  the  French-Canadian  lumber- 
man.  Ottawa  is  not  only  the  seat  of  government  but  a  hive  of  in- 
dustry as  well.  It  is  the  city  of  laws  and  saws.  Its  Upper  Town  rings 
with  the  eloquence  of  our  legislators ;  its  Lower  with  the  shriek  of  our 
unremitting  saw-mills.  It  is  growing  as  no  mere  bureaucratic  center 
can  grow,  and  has  a  population  of  over  40,000,  where,  forty  years  ago, 
there  were  but  7,000  or  8,000  inhabitants.  It  is  a  city  of  deeps  and 
heights,  of  sharp  contrasts  alike  in  its  landscapes  and  its  life ;  and  both 
are  alike  dominated  by  the  truly  splendid  pile  of  the  Parliament  Build- 
ings, which  imperially  crown  the  loftiest  point  of  the  city. 

In  the  days  of  the  "  old  regime,"  when  the  Ottawa  River  was  the 
chief  path  of  the  fur-trade,  on  which  New  France  subsisted,  the  place 
of  portage  around  the  falls  of  the  Chaudi^re  had  not  even  a  wigwam  to 
mark  it  as  the  site  of  a  future  city.  It  was  a  place  of  horror  and  of 
lying-in-wait ;  for  here  the  Iroquois  came  to  intercept  the  Algonquins 
of  the  north  country,  on  their  way  to  Quebec,  with  their  canoe-loads  of 
peltries.  In  1693  so  closely  did  the  Iroquois  bar  the  stream  that  a 
three-years'  gathering  of  beaver-skins  was  held  up  at  Michilitnackinac 
unable  to  make  its  market ;  and  it  took  Frontenac  himself,  the  Deus  ex 
machina  of  New  France,  to  break  the  dread  blockade.  Most  of  the 
romantic  history  of  Old  Canada,  however,  wenf  by  the  other  way,  and 
left  the  difficult  passes  of  the  Ottawa  unhaloed,  Not  till  1800  did  the 
spot  where  tiie  Rideau  spills  its  stream  attract  the  regard  of  pioneers. 


Ol 


q; 


I 

I 


^1 


I 

c 

i 

s 


s 

01 


s 

e 


OTTAWA. 


51 


In  that  year  one  Philemon  Wright,  of  Wob«rn,  Massachusetts,  led  a 
httle  colony  to  the  spot,  and  founded  a  prosperous  settlement,  which  is 
now  the  cty  of  IMl,  on  the  Quebec  side  of  the  river,  immed  atel    op 

ing  el  ffs,  across  the  nver  from  Hull,  arose  the  connnunity  of  B.to.n 
named  for  a  colonel  of  the  Koyal  Engineers,  who  had  charge  o      1  J 

the  scat  of  government,  after  having  been  made  the  shuttlecock  of 
poht,c.ans  and  bandied  between  Niagara  and  Kingston  and  Toron  o 
and  Quebec  and  Montreal,  was  planted  here  by  order  of  the  Queen  nd 
found  a  secure  abiding-place.  ' 

centu  y  Gothic,  and  are  an  admirable  combination  of  simplicity,  grace 
and  strength.     The  material  of  which  they  are  constructed  is  a  eream.' 

t^e  Tr^'"':'"'  "^''""^  "'  *^"^  S^«"^  -d-  the  touch  of 
tune.  The  door  and  window  arches  are  of  red  Potsdam  sandstone  with 
dressings  of  Ohio  freestone.  The  great  central  block  occupies  a  stone 
terrace  with  broad,  sloping  carriage  approaches,  and  is  sur  nounted  by 

orm  th  f  T""l  'T'"'  "'  "''"^^  ''''  ^^^*^^"  ^"d  ^-t^™  blocks 
form  the  two  sides.  In  the  central  block  are  the  two  Houses  of  Parlia- 
ment, the  Commons  and  the  Senate.  The  side-blocks  contain  the 
offices  of  the  varmus  departments.     Facing   the   Parliament   square 

building  of  the  Parlucmentar^  Library,  its  lofty  dome  supported 
by  flying  but  resses  of  admirable  design.  From  a  number  of  points 
0  view  the  buildings  "compose"  in  a  way  that  gives  the  keene 
pleasure  to  the  eye.  The  fii.t  stone  of  the  buildings  was  laid  b  the 
Prince  of  Wales  m  1860,  and  in  their  present  form  they  have' cost 
a  out  15,000^000  The  beautiful  grounds  of  Parlian.ent  H  1 ,  eaTed 
high  above  the  river  and  commanding  an  unrivaled  view,  are  laid  out 
m  broad  walks,  which  form  the  favorite  promenade  of  the  citizens 

Ottawa  contains  other  fine  buildings  such  as  the  Post.Omce\nA 
the  great  Roman  Catholic  Caaedral  in  the  Interesting  French  district 
of  Sussex  St.  and  its  neighborhood,  and  some  massive  and  m tn"h 
cen     commercial    buildings;    but  they  are  so  overshadowed    bv  the 
noble  struetures  on  Parliament  Hill  that  one  is  apt  to  ignore  Lm 
.  side  of  the  ample  breadth  of  Cartier  Square  Is  the  fine  stone 


On 


52 


OTTAWA. 


pile  of  the  JVormal  School,  and  not  far  nff  *i,„ 

block  of  the  Dn.//  8hr,l.  "  '"^'''"""'  ''^  ^"^^^ 

tor  !!'tl'?-,?""'  ""*  •"'''^""■^  "'  '^'  fiovemor-Genoral  and  the  cen. 
tor  of  tho  bnll,..nt  .ocial  life  of  Otta.a,  stands  about  two  milen  out  oi 

or  .vc*^  McHb„rjh.     It  ,8  a  most  unpretentious  and  hap-ha/ard  con 


and  home-like  place  to  live  in.     The 


season  "  at  Ottawa  is  durin" 


gr.,«nds  of  liideau  Hall  bo™n,.  ,1,.  ,ce„c  of  ,„el,  .  tvpi.-I  CanZ' 
nu.r,.,.  ,„ak,ns  .1,..  one  .„,,.  hardlv  .-ealis.  that  the  dL„eIr  o  1" 
regal  h„,|„t,,  Itie,  U  not  a  Canadian,  but  a  five-years'  visitLt  tZ 
oversea,.    The ,l<a.i„g,,„„d  and  the  Ion, .obog«an.„idc.:rt    „ nZ 
w.thU„a,a'smanhe».„„dfai,e»t,  and  the  vWtor,  fro.n  the  mother 
country  take  very  kindly  t„  the  exhilarating  Canadian  pastime, 

A  ,,««  of  snmmer-tobogganing,  bnt  vastly  more  thrilling  and  »Ith 

onnt.    The     sbdes     are  long,  flat-bottoraed,  sharply-sloping  channels 
of  mas„ve  stonework  and  timber.    These  are  built  ,1  the  pa  ™To 
gn^a.  logs  whieh  have  been   hewn  squa,.  in  the  woods,  rdThieh 
would  be  damaged  b,  such  merciless  grinding  and  batterin-  a^  he 
ordmary  rough  logs  arc  subjected  to  in  their  plunge  1"^  fa  I, 
The  squared  logs  are  made  up,  for  the  descent,  into  "cribs '-  of  at  u" 
21.  s  .eks,  exact  y  fitting  the  slides.    A,  these  are  but  slightly  fastened 

Ihe  pace  of  the  descent  is  eminently  exciting.     The  experience  of  the 

i  imce  of  Wales,  Pr,„ee  Arthur,  the  Orand  Duke  Alexis,  and  the 

:::::b:,tM:.'rrz:r'* ""-'  ^'-----^«^ 

nr\uu'^''^  ^^  *''®  ^^""^  ^^^  adventurous  voyageurs  hurrledlv  emh«.k   fhn 
feet ;  the  lad.es  gather  up  their  ga^ents,  as  the  crib,  now  beginL^  to 


e 

3 


03 


3 

S 


m 

Ml 


W 


OTTAWA. 


68 


compliments  tliia  offort      Kovor  min/i        V-;*^    •">  !    trom   the    Indies 

day's  march.  AnotheHntervirof  "no.  tJ  n  f  T!'"'  ^""^  f  '"  ^'''« 
.vet  um>thcr.  Aheacl  therp  i«  «  Jl  /  '  "'^  "«**'"  '*  ^""OP.  and 
which  shows  the  end  of  the  dcscen  T  °^  'n*^'*  '"^  ^"'"^'^'l  ^^t'^''. 
last  wild  dip,  which  sends  fhoZV         "  ■*'"  ''*' '""'''  ""'^  ^^'^^  one 

have  roacheS'  the  bo  torn  oL^^XS^'':' ^V'T'  "^  '^'^  ^' 
wood,  called  the  'anion  '  wl.sl     ^        ^      **"  *  floatmp;  platform  of 

oms  five.'     We  ha?e"rVtKliSer' '' ''  ""  "'""^''^^  ''^^^  '  ^""  f^^*'" 

rfJ'rr  rr"*'.'',"*"'  '"^"^  '^**^-  '«  crowdedabout  cL«. 
rtj^>e  Aa//«.     This  is  the  lumber  region— a  eifv  nf  ,looia   k  *  . 

dea.«  as  are  to  be  had  in  Wall  Bt^^h:  l'  s  ftll  ^ 't  t elu 
resh  cut  pine  and  fir,  and  the  shop-windows  are  stocked  with  sw  Id 

2t:  :;rbieT-'''^^^^^^^^        ^"^  .i^antidegb:::  nl 

approach  the  water  our  ears  tingle  under  the  shrieking  crescJo  Z 
ch,n^nnen<io  of  the  innumerable  saws.    The  mills  erowdlTf  waTrcrlss 

every  pom  of  vantage  are  thrust  great  embankments  of  stone  and  tim 

flour"  ,7  7""  ""'^  ""^  '"'^''-  «-'d-  "-  saw-millMhel  Te" 
flour-mills  and  ce.nent-mills,  and  wool-mills  ;  and,  on  the  other  Weo? 
the  cataract,  reaching  out  from  the  Hull  shore,  a  gi^anl  str  cture 
where  matches  are  n.ade,  and  wooden-ware.  Thl-ro,  alC^  yet  o 
m.l  .  The  great  river  has  been  caught  and  put  in  harness.  AportL 
of  Its  wa  er  is  permitted  to  thunder  over  the  falls,  which  form  a  .at 

onage.     ihe  rest  of  the  current  is  forced  to  labor  in  the  mills  ere  it 
may  continue  its  jo„i.ey  to  the  sea  ;  for  a  thousand  sluices  h^ve'be^n 

"  'I"  ^^"'.'''"  '""^^^^  "*''<=^'  an*!  dam  bis  streams 
And  spht  his  currents." 

scriJab!:'!r;f '*'^^!T  ''  ^'""^^  ^"^  strident  noises  is  inde- 
day  m  the  yellow  gloom,  by  night  in  the  white  alar,  of  "k.  ....l.Z 


54 


OTTAWA   TO   MONTREAL. 


electnc  lights,  go  on  the  rending  and  the  biting  of  the  saws.  In  the 
darlvsawdu.t  flecked  water  about  the  foot  of  the  dripping  sh'des  wal- 
ow  the  ro,.gh  brown  logs.  Great  chains  and  hooks  descend,  and  the 
logs  are  grabbed  and  dragged  up  the  slide  into  the  dens  where  the 
rnynad  teeth  await  them.     What  are  known  as  the  upright  saws  are 

::;l^d':^^^*^*'v'^;r^^  ^^  ^^^^  -  *^-  cio.en,i„'a%on:bTn:tL 

called  a   'gate"  wh.eh  keeps  darting  up  and  down  in  a  terrible  and 
|r.gant,c  dance.     Against  their  teeth  the  logs  are  driven  ;  steadily  and 
.rres.st,bly  the  steel  bites  its  loud  way  from  end  to  end;  and  the  logs 
>ass  forth  on  the  other  side  in  the  shape  of  yellow  planks  and  boards. 
On  every  .,de,  and  of  all  sizes,  hum  the  circulars,  revolving  so  fast  that 
they  appear  stationary  and  can  not  show  their  teeth.     A  log  or  nlank 
approaches  the  innocent-looking,  hun.ming  disk ;  it  touches,  and  there 
rises  a  soanng  shriek  which  may  quaver  through  the  whole  gamut    The 
m.ber  divjdes  swiftly,  as  if  it  were  some  impalpable  fabric  of  a  dream 
and  behmd  the  saw  shoots  up  a  curving  yellow  spray  of  sawdust.  ' 

From  Ottawa  to  Montreal. 

Every  week-day  morning,  at  7.25,  a  steamer  of  the  Ottawa  River 
Navigation  Company  leaves  Ottawa  for  Montreal,  and  makes  the  run 
.n  about  10  hours.     The  scenery  on  this  trip  is  strong  and  picturesque. 
The  nver  rolls  its  brown  tide  between  the  stern  hills  of  the  Lauren 
t.ans,  over  mad  rapids,  ana  through  wide,  many-islanded  reaches    There 
•s  no  monotony  on  this  trip.     The  chief  traffic  of  the  river  is  in  lumber 
and  we  overtake  and  pass  fleets  of  roomy  barges  piled  high  with  the 
yellow  deals  and  towed  by  gasping  and  laboring  steam-tu4 

A  mile  below  Ottawa  we  run  past  the  mouth  of  a  griat  river  the 
(raHn.au.     This  stream,  draining  a  vast  extent  of    -ountry,  discharges 
an  immense  volume  of  water  into  the  Ottawa;  but  the  last  7  miles  of 
Its  course  are  rendered  unnavigable  by  a  succession  of  fierce  rapids 
A  few  miles  below  the  Gatineay  is  the  mouth  of  the  Uevre,  a  much 
smaller  stream,  yet  boasting  a  course  of  nearly  400  miles.     This  is  the 
land  where  the  canoeist,  besides  all  the  sport  with  rod  and  gun  that 
his  heart  can  wish,  may  conveniently  taste  the  rapture  of  running  rap- 
Ids  in  his  frail  craft.     This  is  a  very  different  experience  from  the 
descent  m  a  great  steamer,  which  lifts  you  so  far  above  the  waves  that 
you  fail  to  realize  all  their  fury.     Yet  another  experience  is  to  make 
the  descent  of  the  rapids  on  a  raft  of  logs,  amid  the  oaths  or  pious 


h 


OTTAWA   TO   MONTREAL. 


55 


i 


h 


qacu  ations  of  the  P,e„ch  tambomen.  The  men  surge  desperately  on 
.he,r  long  sweeps,  b«  the  unwieldy  eraft  appears  to  walW  ta  n.te" 
helplessness  an^d  the  terrifie  surges,  and  when  the  descent  has  bee^ 
a  comphshed  the  traveler  wonders  how  he  came  through  alive.    The 

i  I  :;:;'•;" '!  ""■""'""'"■  °'  ""^  """^  •-'  *=  o-"-'- 

OuisTte  Ivrb  TT"  "'"'  ""''""''  ■""  '«'™  "^^"""-^  '■"»  «■>  - 
quisite  lyric  by  Mr.  Lampman: 

BETWEEN  THE  RAPID^I. 

The  point  ie  turned  ;  the  twilight  shadow  i'lls 

The  wheeling  stream,  the  soft  receding  shore 
And  on  our  ears  from  deep  among  the  hills 

Breaks  now  the  rapid's  sudden  quickening  roar. 
Ah  !  yet  the  same,  or  have  they  changed  their  face, 

The  fair  green  fields,  and  can  it  still  be  seen 
The  white  log  cottage  near  the  mountain's  base, 

So  bright  and  quiet,  so  home-like  and  serene  ? 
Ah,  well  I  question  ;  for,  as  five  years  go 
How  many  blessings  fall,  and  how  much  woe  ! 

The  shore,  the  fields,  the  cottage  just  the  same. 

But  how  with  them  whose  memory  makes  them  sweet  f 
Oh,  If  I  called  them,  hailing  name  by  name 

Would  the  same  lips  the  same  old  shouts  repeat  ? 
Have  the  rough  years,  so  big  with  death  and  ill 
Gone  lightly  by  and  left  them  smiling  yet  ?    ' 
Wild  black-eyed  Jeanne  whose  tongue  was  never  still, 

Old  wrinkled  Picaud,  Pierre,  and  pale  Lisette, 
The  homely  hearts  that  never  cared  to  range 
While  life-s  wide  fields  were  filled  with  rush  and  change. 
And  where  is  Jacques  and  where  is  Verginie  ^ 

I  can  not  tell ;  the  fields  are  all  a  blur. 
The  lowing  cows,  whose  shapes  I  scarcely  see. 
Oh,  do  they  wait  and  do  they  call  for  her  v  ' 
And  is  she  changed,  or  is  her  heart  still  clear 

As  wind  or  morning,  light  as  river-foam  « 
Or  have  life's  changes  borne  her  far  from  here 

And  far  from  rest,  and  far  from  help  and  home  ? 
Ah,  comrades,  soft,  and  let  us  .eat  awhile 
For  arms  grow  tired  with  paddling  many  a  mile. 

Blacker  and  loftier  grow  the  woods,  and  hark  t 
The  freshening  roar  !   The  chute  is  near  us  now. 

And  dim  the  caflon  grows,  and  inkv  dark 
The  water  whispering  from  the  b'ircuen  prow 


i 

'mi 


i 


OTTAWA   TO   MONTREAL. 

One  long  last  look,  and  many  a  sad  adieu, 

While  eyes  can  see  and  heart  can  feel  you  yet, 
I  leave  sweet  home  and  sweeter  hearts  to  you, 

A  prayer  for  Picaud,  one  for  pale  Lisette, 
A  kiss  for  Pierre,  my  little  Jacques,  and  thee, 
A  sigh  for  Jeanne,  a  sob  for  Verginie. 

Oh,  does  she  still  remember  ?  Is  the  dream 

Now  dead,  or  has  she  found  another  mate  * 
So  near,  so  dear  ;  and  ah,  so  swift  the  stream  I 

Even  now  perhaps  it  were  not  yet  too  late. 
But  oh,  what  matter  ?  for  before  the  night 

Has  reached  its  middle  we  have  far  to  go  • 
Bend  to  your  paddles,  comrades  ;  see,  the  light 

Ebbs  off  apace  ;  we  must  not  linger  so 
Aye  thus  it  is  !  Heaven  gleams  and  then  is  gone 
Once,  twice  it  smiles,  and  still  we  wander  on. 

The  next  point  of  interest  below  the  mouth  of  the  Lihre  is  the 

Chuteau  c^Montelello,  the  home  of  the  great  French-Canadian  Pa. 

mean     This  man,  whom  the  stress  of  a  patriotic  struggle  misled 

mto  rebehon,  was  one  of  the  ablest  and  most  eloc,..t  of'can:  a's 

ml,  .  T"'^  ''  '""='*  ^""^  ""'''  *"""^P'^^"  by  constitutional 
means  and  h.s  name  is  held  now  in  all  reverence.  The  chateau  in 
winch  he  spent  his  days  after  his  recall  from  exile,  is  a  pictn's^ue 
France  '*"'*""'   ""''""''  "'  ''""'  and   savonng  of  OM 

he  mouth  of  the  mnouffe,  the  outlet  of  the  enchanting  mountain-girt 
lake  0     Comandeau.     This  water,  which  teems  with  trout,  is  bes 
reached  by  a   portage  from   Granville  (the  next  place  at  which  the 
steamer  arnves)  to  the  river  Houffc,  which  must  be  ascended  in  canoes 

will  well  repay  the  tourist  who  turns  aside  for  this  trip 

At  Grenville  we  leave  the  steamer  and  take  the  train  for  Carman 
a7ZJ  g'-^t  -M^iJ«  known  as  the  Carillon,  Long  SauU,  and  Chu/e 
aa  Bondcau.  These  three  rapids  are  further  circumvented  by  three 
canals,  used  chiefly  for  the  freight  traffic.  They  were  built  by  the 
Imperial  Government  for  military  purposes,  for  which  it  is  to  be  lioped 
they  may  never  be  required.  That  which  passes  the  Long  Saul  is 
known  as  the  GrenviUe  Canal,  and  was  excavated  for  six  mfles  out  o 
what  IS  mainly  solid  rock. 

The  Pa,s  of  the  Long  Saull,  on  the  western  shore,  is  to  Canadians 


1/   Jl 

II 

si 

i 

5l 


-4 

.    ***» 


OTTAWA   TO   MONTREAL. 


57 


holy  ground,  for  there  was  enacted  a  deed  of  heroi8m  than  which  the 
pases  of  history  can  show  nono  more  magnificent.     In  1660  the  whole 
force  of  the  Iroquois  confederacy  bent  itself  to  the  destruction  of  the 
French  colonies  of  Villemarie  and  Quebec.     The  doom  appeared  in- 
evitable.    But  there  were  heroes  of  the  ancient  type  in  New  France 
A  young  nobleman,  the  Sieur  Danlac  des  Ormeaux,  familiarly  known 
as  Bollard,  gathered  a  band  of  six..en  comrades,  who  devoted  their 
lives   with  the  most  solemn  ceremonial  of  the  Church,  to  the  task  ol 
breaking  th.  attack  of  the  invaders.     They  intrenched  themselves  at 
the  Pass  of  the  Long  Sault.     With  them  went  some  twoscore  Huron 
allies  all  of  whom  but  two  chiefs  deserted  them  when  the  enemy  ap- 
peared.    Hve  hundred  yelling  savages,  the  best  of  all  Indian  warriors 
swarmed  upon  the  frail  barricade;  and  again  and  again  they  were 
beaten  off  with  tremendous  slaughter,  till  they  drew  back  to  await  re- 
enforcements.     For  three  days  the  handful  of  heroes  held  the  post 
sleepless  and  parched  with  tenible  thirst;  and  when  the  last  man  of 
them  had  struck  his  last  blow,  the  Iroquois  had  no  more  stomach 
for  the  fight.     Their  losses  had  been  so  heavy  that  they  had  to  give 
lip  all  tho,ight  of  attacking  Villemarie,  as  Montreal  was  called ;  and 
Daulac  had  saved  New  France.    The  story  has  been  woven  into  a  glow- 
Dollar''''  ^^  ^^'''  ^"'^''■^"°'^'  ""^«'-  *he  title  of  The  Romance  of 

At  Crtrillon  where  we  resume  the  steamer,  the  Ottawa  ceases  to  be 
the  boundary-lme  between  the  two  provinces,  and  from  this  point  on 
we  are  m  Quebec.     Soon  we  enter  the  Lake  of  Tivo  Mountains,  an  ir. 
regular  sheet  of  water  from  3  to  4  miles  in  width  and  about  24  miles 
ong.     Into  this  lake  flows  the  Rivihe  d  la  Graisse,  pr.st  the  prettv  vil. 
age  of  R^ffaud.     This  neighborhood  was  the  scene  of  many  conflicts 
between  the  so-called  "Patriots ''and  the  Loyalists  in  the  difficulties 
of  1837^    Near  Rigaud  rises  a  hill  called  the  Montaffne  Stc.  Maoda- 
faine.     On  the  summit  is  a  square  field  several  acres  in  extent,  whose 
surface  IS  covered  with  bowlders.     These  stones,  by  some  strange 
fie.k  of  Nature,  have  been  .et  in  long,  orderly  lines,  so  as  to  resemble 
a  newly  plowed  neld,  and  the  name  of  the  place  is  called  Fluie  de  Gue. 
rrt.      .n  tins  mysterious  spot  one  can  hear  distinctly  underground  mur- 
^mr.  m  of  flowing  water ;  but  the  digging  of  curious  investigators  has 
iaMou  to  reveal  the  cau=e  of  this  phenomenon.     Par  down  the  lake  is 
a  charraing  summer  resort,  the  Indian  village  of  Oka.     Some  of  the 
Indians  have  been  removed  and  settled  in  a  new  domain  in  the  Mus. 


58 


OTTAWA   TO   MONTREAL. 


koka  country      There  is  now  a  monastery  of  Trappist  monks  at  Oka 
to  «1..e     v,s.tors  arc  admitted  and  shown  over'the   estabHs  men  ' 

Zl^r7  ™"r'""'  "'^"'  «'^^  *''«  ^"'^«  '*«  "'-e,  the  la  g  rtas 
called   Valvar,  by  the  pioneers  of  New  Franee.     (,„  the     ummit  o 
tl.e  steep  were  seven  chapels,  memorials  of  the  mystic     eve     o    St 
John^  v..on  ;  and  hither,  on  many  a  pious  pilgHmage,  came        peop t 
she  t     :;?y"";^  T'  "^^  '"  ^^'^'^  ^^"^^  "'^^  ^^ey  quitteTtle 

1        of  ^    7     "  ";    "^^^^^^'^  ^^'^^^^  T-  Mountains  is  th 
.  d  h^t        ^T\       "''  ^'  '"^  '^  «"^  '^^'^^^"^  «f  the  Si.  Lawrence 

ep.tome  of  the  p.ctures.iueness  of  the  haLitants,  as  the  French  Cana 
dum  country  folks  are  called.     At  this  point  Ihe  Ottawa      HtshL" 
n  .ghty  current  into  three  streams,  the  largest  of  which  helps  ftnish 
the  e,p,  ,  ^,  ,,  ^.Zo.e«,  while  the^wo  smaller  flow  no^  of 

r^ava    and  Montreal  Islands.     At,  St.  Anne  the  steamer  enters  a  Irt 
-nal  of  one  lock  to  avoid  a  dangerous  rapid.     Here  tleG  and  Trunk 
c;-es  ^  .0  Montreal  Man,  by  a  splendili  and  maL^:;;^:^  "^ 
wh       the  .teamer  passes  with  lowered  funnel.    0.  a  point  of  the  island. 
^     ttle  oc.oad  we  note  the  ruins  of  a  castle  built  after  a  medi^-a 
pa  tern  as  a  defense  against  the  Iroquois.     There  are  two  sucTcrtie 
Htandang  c  ose  together,  with  a  circular  tower  on  the  hill-ton    Til 
ng  over  their  approaches.     Within  the  high  walls  of  the  cas  leTwas" 
IZ:r'    to  shelter  all  the  women  and  children  of  the  ancient  let- 

MontVal'isTVl  'I'T''"'  '•'  '^""  ''  ^«^'"^^'  «*  -'^-  f-- 
avoL  don  h.  '''?^*'^  ^^"^'  '^^^-h-'h  the  ZacMne  Rapids  are 
avo  ded  on  the  upward  tr.p.  Before  the  canal  was  built,  Laclle  was 
a. lace  of  g^-eat  commercial  importance;  now  it  is  chiefly  a  pLce  of 
summer  residence  for  citizens  of  Montreal.  Its  steep  cables  and  !]d 
fashioned  dormpp.win,!....  .,„„.i„  ._  , ,  ..  ^  ^*^'^^  ^^^  ^Id- 


hicklj  about ,.  are  tho™  of  tl,c  ,•■«.  La  Sallo.  Its  site  was  "awed 
b,,hoSul„ida„  Fathers  to  La  Salle  that  he  might  estallh  t  "e  a 
tomliud  oatpost  for  the  more  effective  defense  o?  the  city  La iTue 
named  h,s  settlement  La  Chine,  thus  en.bataing  ,,is  domi'nant    d  a 

IT  fi,rr,i  ^ -"""r' '°  '"^  '»*»  '"<■  ''""■^^  ^  «»>^ 

on"i,il  ,/:,,"  '"''™"'™»' ""'  'he  settlement  „„ntin„ed  to 
tlouush  t,ll  the  dreadful  ma  :sacre  of  1689,  v,hich  «  referred  to  in  our 
account  of  Kingston.    The  cause  whieh  leu  to  this  catasflphe  hasleen 


Oka, 
lent. 

was 
it  of 
■  St. 
ople 

the 

the 
nee, 
!  an 
ma- 
his 
lish 

of 
ort 
ink 
lev 
id. 


les 
;h- 
as 

3t- 


ra 
re 

IS 

>f 


II 


U 


•^i 


ill 


III 


PROVINCE   OF    QUEBEC. 


59 


already  related;  the  catastrophe  itself  has  thus  been  described  by  a 
Canadian  writer,  Mr.  C.  V.  Rogers : 

"Nearly  two  centuries  ago,  on  the  night  of  August  5,  1689.  as  the 
mhabuants  of  Laclune  lay  sleeping,  amid  a  storm  of  hail  upon  the 
lake,  which  effectually  disguised  the  noise  of  their  landing,  a  force  of 
many  hundred  warnors,  armed  and  besmeared  with  war-paint,  made  a 
descen  upon  Lachine.  Through  the  night  they  noiselessly  s.mXled 
every  building  in  the  village.  With"  dawn  the  fearfuu4rXop 
awoke  men,  women  and  children  to  their  doom  of  torture  and  death 

,ih!  .T  '7  u  ■"' '  \'-'  '*V^''^*'  ^"  ^'^^  '^^''^y  '"«'•".  the  horror-stricken 
inhabitants  of  Montreal  could  see  from  their  fortifications  the  nameless 
cruelties  which  preceded  the  massacre.  It  is  said  the  Iroquois  indulged 
so  freely  in  the  hre-water  of  the  Lachine  merchants  that,  had  the  de- 
icndcrs  of  \  dlemarie  been  prompt  to  seize  the  favorable  moment,  the 
i7?tl  ""■'!;'  '"'?'",  ''^'''  ^^"'"  slaughtered  like  swine.  Paralyzed 
A^f  S'h^Ti'iTK  ^''^  ''^^  witnessed,  the  French  let  the  occasion  slip. 
At  nightfall  the  savages  withdrew  to  the  mainland,  not,  however,  with- 
out signifying  by  yells-repeated  to  the  number  of  ninety-how  manv 

rnliHZ'lJl  T  '"l'"^-  ''''Tr  ^^l?'""  *^"  '•^'"P"''t«  «f  Villemarie  and 
amid  the  blackened  ruins  ot  Lachine  the  garrison  watched  the  fires  on 
the  opposite  shore  kindled  for  what  purposes  of  nameless  cruelty  thev 
knew  too  well.  The  fate  of  Lachine  marks  the  lowest  point  fn  the 
fortunes  of  ^ew  France ;  by  what  deeds  of  heroism  they  were  retrieved 
13  not  the  least  glorious  page  in  Canadian  history." 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 

Quebec,  the  senior  province  of  the  Canadian  confederation,  occu- 
^pies  the  greater  portion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Valley.  It  has  an  ex- 
treme length,  E.  and  W.,  of  1,000  miles,  and  a  great  diversity  of 
scenery  and  resources.  For  a  long  time  it  monopolized  the  name  of 
Canada;  and  for  a  far  longer  period  its  history  was  practically  the 
whole  of  Canadian  history,  save  for  what  was  being  enacted  in  the 
narrower  sphere  of  the  Acadian  Peninsula.  The  following  extremely 
condensed  abstract  of  the  history  of  the  province  is  taken  from  Dr. 
Stewart's  article  on  Quebec  in  the  Encyclopaedia  Britannica : 

"  Quebec  was  first  visited  by  the  French,  under  Jacques  Cartier,  in 
1535,  and  a  second  time  in  1536,  though  it  is  said  that  Sebastian 
Cabot  discovered  the  country  in  1497.  The  regular  settlement  of  the 
province,  however,  was  not  made  until  1608,  when  Samuel  de  Champ- 
lam  landed  at  the  site  now  occupied  by  Quebec  City.  Here  he  estab- 
lished military  and  trading  posts,  and  it  was  not  long  before  the  new 


I;  I 


la. 


60 


PROVINCE   OF   QUEBEC. 


possession  bocamo  the  seat  of  the  Jesuit  and  R,5collet  missions,  which 
were  zealously  earned  on  under  tl,c  most  trying     ii-cumstanees  for 
nearly  a  century  and  a  half.     The  early  settlers   endured   eountless 
hardships  from  the  incursions  of  the  Indians,  and  the  frec.uent  wars 
m  winch  they  wero  forced  to  engage  with  the  English  and  Dutch.     In 
1759  »he  Marqui.  of  Montcalm  was  defeated  at  Qucbe.  l)y  an  Endish 
army  under  General  Wolfe.     A  year  later  the  French  surrendered  all 
tluju-  important  posts,  and  the  colony  ,,asscd  under  Englisli  rule      In 
_      m'i  the  Treaty  of  Paris  was  signed,  by  the  torn>s  of  which,  and  the 
conditions  laid  down  a  few  years  later  in  the  memorable  Quebec  Act 
ot  1774,  the  French  were  guaranteed  by  England  their  laws,  language 
and  religion.     In   1791  the  colony  was  divided  into  Upper  and  Lowe^ 
Canada;  but  in  1841,  after  a  serL  s  of  internal  dissensions,  includin.^ 
the  rebellion  of  1837,  and  several    .olitical  quarrels,  the  count,-    was 
again  umted.     In  1867  the  provinces  of  Old  Canada,  under  the  names 
ot  Ontario  and  Quebec,  were  erected,  with  New  Brunswick  and  Nova 
hcotia,  into  the  Dominion  of  Canada." 

Under  the  indulgent  protection  of  England,  Quebec  has  grown  and 
prospered,  and  deveoped  a  civilization  unique  in  the  modern  world 
Ihe  province  is  in  many  respects  a  piece  of  Old  France.     In  its  re- 
ligious  homogeneity  it  is  almost  medieval;  and  along  with  this  <roes  a 
conservatism,  as  far  as  custom  and  tradition  are  concerned,  which  gives 
the  lite  of  the  habifant  a  marked  individuality  and  local  color.     At  the 
same  time  the  French  Canadian  has  grown  up  under  th.  responsibility 
of  self-government  and  British  institutions,  to  which  he  very  readily 
a Japted  himself,  and  which  have  given  him  a  certain  political  alertness, 
y  ividly  conscious  of  his  power  in  the  confederation,  he  is  not  at  all  diffi- 
dent m  the  exercise  of  it ;  but,  underlying  a  good  deal  of  self-assertive 
glorihcation  of  the  illustrious  race  from  which  he  is  sprung  there  is  a 
sound  loyalty  not  only  to  the  flag  under  whose  shelter  he  has  so  pros- 
pored,  but  also  to  the  young  federation  in  which  he  plays  so  important 
a  part.  ' 

To  the  romancer  and  the  student  of  character,  the  province  of 
Quebec  offers  a  field  of  almost  unparalleled  richness,  which  has  as  yet 
been  but  little  worked.  To  the  lover  of  outdoor  sports  it  offers  almost 
virgm  woods  and  waters  of  unlimited  possibilities.  To  the  idle  tourist 
who  IS  so  unfortunate  as  not  to  be  preoccupied  by  any  hobby,  it  offers 
the  attraction  of  novel  scenes,  unfamiliar  customs,  fresh  experiences 
and  an  invigorating  climate,  ' 


MONTREAL. 


61 


JACQUES  PARTIER. 

No  flame  of  war  wm  he,  no  flower  <>/  grace, 
No  star  of  windom  ;  but  a  plain,  bold  man. 

More  eurefiil  of  fhe  end  than  of  the  plan 

No  inynfory  wan  he  afraid  to  face  ; 

No  Havaye  Btrategy,  no  fiirions  Htorm, 
No  Btin-rs  of  climate,  no  iinthoiif,'iit  disease. 
His  master  purpoHo  would  not  bund  to  these. 

But  saw,  through  all,  aehievement'8  towering  form. 

lie  first  beheld  the  gloomy  Sagnenay, 

And  Stadacona'H  high,  forbidding  brow  ; 
His  ventiirouH  vision,  too,  did  first  survey  ' 

Fair  Ilochelaga,  but  not  fair  as  now. 
St.  Malo  holds  his  dust,  the  world  his  fame. 
But  his  strong,  dauntless  soul  "tis  ours  to  claim. 

Matthew  Richky  Knioht. 

JMontreal. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  loading  hotels  are  the  Windsor,  on  Dominion 
^Z%\^T'T  ^"''  ?"  '^'-  •^^'^'^  '^t-  the  Hahnoral  on  Notre 

hostdj;     "       '  ""  '^"'^"^'^  '^'''''''  '^'l"^^^^  ^''«  f*-«"te  id. 

Modes  of  Conve,iance.-YAoQiv\c  and  horse  cars  traverse  the  ci'v  in 
every  direction,  and  afford  easy  acoes.s  to  principal  poi.Us      Oarr  a^res 

rci?^/"^£X;s^:::r'^^"-^'^"^^"««'^»^  -'->-«  «^^^'^ 

_   One-horse  Vehicles.— One  or  two  persons,  15  minutes,  25  cents-  SO 
mmutes  40  cents  ;  the  first  hour,  75  cent.s,  and  60  cents   or  every  ^ub 
sequent  hour.     Three  or  four  persons,  40  cents  for  15  m'nutjs    60 

Xc^t^t^Lr-"^' '' ''' ''' '-'  ^-^'-^  ^.centTrrr;^ 

Two-horse  Vehicles.— One  or  two  persons,  60  cents  for  15  niinnt..«  • 
65  cents  or  30  minutes,  and  $1  per  hour.  For  three  or  four  ^esonV 
65  cents  for    5  mmutes,  75  cents  for  30  minutes,  and  $1.25  per  ho    ' 

DorSe;:^''*"^"''*'"'  °"  ^"'^^'"-   "'^"   ^""'  -d   «*•   James    o^" 
¥vom  Wind.sor  Station  the  C.  P.  l{.  express  trains  leave  for  Toronto 
Sherbrooke,  St.  John,  N.  B.,  Halifax,  Ottawa,  Detroil   Chica-o    S' 
Paul,  Sau  t  Ste.  Marie,  Minneapolis,  ^tc,  Winkiperand  Vanmive  " 
1  rom  Balhonsze  Station  the  trains  leave  for  Winn  pe?  Vancouver  In  i 

the  G.  T.  R   all  leave  from  the   Bonaventnre  Depot;   as  do  also  the 

trams  for  Ottawa  boat  at  Lachine.     Steamers  r^ninj?  down  the  St 

.Lawrence  to  Quebec  and  intermediate  points,  as  well  as  for  Toronto 


.;.'.*. 


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62 


MONTREAL. 


gatlon  Co'^''''  ^""""  ^'"^  "^"^""^  '^  '^'  ^'^helicu  and  Ontario  Navi- 

Population,  with  suburbs,  300,000. 

Montreal  is  a  microcosm  of  Canada.  Here  is  the  Old  Canada  side 
bv8,demththeNew;  here  French  Canada  and  English  Canada  come 
n.to  c  ose  and  perpetual  contact,  and  yet  nmintain  their  individuality 
Sne  stands  between  French  Quebec,  172  miles  east,  and  English  To- 
ronto,  338  miles  west.  With  a  quarter  of  a  million  inhabitants,  an  on- 
rivaled  s.te  at  the  head  of  ocean  navigation,  yet  in  the  heart  of  the 
continent,  with  enormous  wealth,  and  with  all  the  resources  of  the 
Northwest  seeking  an  outlet  through  her  port,  Montreal  is  the  com- 

fTr    T7        "'  '''''''''  ""'  '  ''''  "^*^  *he  securest  possible 
future.    She  has  a  past  also,  heroic,  romantic,  and  brilliant  beyond  that 
of  most  cities  of  tins  New  World,  and  a  present  in  which  ail  Ca.ada 
akes  just  pride.     To  Montreal  the  trade  of  the  Northwest  has  been 
tributary  from  its  beginning.     First,  it  was  the  fur-trade,  whose  mer- 
chant-princes,  building  their  homes  on  Beaver  Hall  Hill,  gave  Canada 
Its  fit  emblem,  the  wise  and  capable  beaver.    Then  came  the  lumber 
grain,  and  cattle  trades,  all  pouring  their  wealth  into  the  city's  lap  • 
and  now  the  great  transcontinental  railway,  the  Canadian  Pacific,  with 
Its  headquarters  at  Montreal,  reaches  out  for  the  trade  of  "the  cor 
geous  Ea.t,"  and  realizes  the  dream  of  La  Salle  and  those  old  explorers' 
who  shattered  their  forces  in  the  effort  to  find  a  route  to  Cathav 

nv.  K  'Xl^^''  ^''  "*•""  ^'""^  *^'  '"«""*''^'"  ^^-'^h  stands  guard 
over  her.  The  peculiar  form  of  the  name,  "  Mont  Real,"  seems  to  point 
to  Portuguese  influences  somewhere  in  the  dawn  of  her  historv  In 
a  succession  of  terraces  the  streets  climb  the  mountain,  all  the  summit 
of  which  IS  reserved  to  the  citizens  as  a  matchless  park.  Business  has 
gradually  worked  itself  back,  street  by  street,  from  the  water-front,  till 
now  the  once  aristocratic  exclusion  of  St.  Catherine  St  is  a  main  artery 
of  trade.  ^ 

MONTREAL  IN  HISTORY. 
In  spite  of  the  strongly  differentiated  elements  of  which  Montreal's 
population  IS  composed-English  Protestant  and  French  Roman  Catho- 
he-race  and  religious  antagonisms  are  kept  subdued  by  much  mutual 
good-will  and  forbearance.  For  some  time  after  the  conquest,  Protes- 
tants were  allowed  the  use  of  a  Roman  church  after  the  morning  mass 


Montreal. 


63 


Every  Sunda,  afternoon,  from  1766  to  1786,  a  Church  of  England  con 
gregatjon  occupied  fte  Church  of  .he  R^colIcK    The  sane  prtvC 
was  afterward  extended  to  the  Presbyterian,,  up  .„  1792,  „L  "Z 
denommatron  .noved  to  a  church  of  its  own.    At  this  time    his  eUeS 
ngly  Protestant  congrejatiou,  ,0  show  its  good-will  .nd  sense  of  g7a7 

for  the  h^gh  altar  and  wine  for  the  mass.  A  few  Tears  ago  the  plclur 
esqr,e  and  historic  Bonsecours  Church  was  about'to  be  Lrn  do™  t^" 
make  room  for  a  railway  station,  but  a  few  Protestants,  holdil  n 
honor  the  assocations  of  the  building  and  the  memory  of  the  de 

xttr::;:°:r  "■  ^"'  -  '*'--  --■  -  ■-- "» 

ton'lr  '"  "I"  ""°"'°  °*  "''  "■"  ^'^'"'  Carter,  with  a  forty. 

k"  ?,„:"''  '™  °P'"  ''°»"'  «<^"1»1  'he  St.  Lawrence  to  seek 

the  c,ty  Hochelaga,  of  which  the  Indians  had  told  him  at  Quebec     On 

hundreds  of  Indians  crowded  about  them  in  eager  delight  and  wel 
corned  them  with  gifts  of  flsh  and  maize.    The  Indian  city  laysomj 
way  back  from  the  water,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain     Arlnnt 
rustled  fruitful  eorn.«eUIs,  and  around  the  corn.flelds  rose  the  black 
masses  of  the  ancient  woods.    The  town  was  fenced  with  a  trip  e  r' w 
of  heavy  pahsades  formed  of  the  trunks  of  trees.     In  the  c^nl   „" 
the  town  was  an  open  square,  wherein  Cartier  was  received  as  a  demi 
god  and  besought  to  heal  the  sick  with  his  touch.    This  he  lid  „„ 
afte  "this'  eouid  bestow  gifts,  which  is  a  seml-divine  functTon    and 
afte   th,s  ceremony  he  ascended  the  mountain,  followed  by  a  troLn  of 
adonng  natives.     When  the  full  m,agni8cence  „f  this  unrivaledZid 

z::"  K  tai "  M't'r-r^  •"'"■  "^  -^^^  ""-^'^  ^-ve  thrni  re- 
name of  Royal.  Not  till  seventy  years  after  Carticr's  visit  did  Euro 
pean  eyes  again  behold  the  site  of  Montreal.  Then  Champlain  u«lT 
took  the  work  that  Oartier  had  begun.  But  he  found  no  town  ; 
Hochelaga.  There  had  been  war  among  the  tribes,  the  maile  fields 
had  been  laid  waste,  and  the  city  wiped  out  by  fire.  The  sto  y  <rf  ts 
destruction  was  detailed  .0  Ch.mplain  by  two  oid  Indians  whTgt  d^' 

Hurons  and  Senecas  lived  in  peace  and  friendship  together  at  Il«,he 

quairel,  till  for  some  reason,  a  Seneca  chief  refused  his  son  permission 
.0  marry  a  Seneca  maiden.    Enraged  at  the  action  of  the  stem" 


64 


MONTREAL. 


I  I 


the  lady  refused  all  offers  of  marriage,  and  declared  she  would  only 
wed  the  warrior  who  should  slay  the  chief  who  had  interfered  with 
her  happiness.     A  young  Wyandot,  smitten  by  her  charms,  attacked 
and  killed  the  old  chief  and  received  the  coveted  reward.    The  Senecas, 
however,  adopted  the  cause  of  their  chief,  and  a  terrible  fratricidal  war' 
spread  desolation  throughout  the  Huron  country,  nor  did  it  cease  till  the 
Iroquois  had  completely  broken  up  and  almost  exterminated  the  Hurons." 
In  1611,  having  founded  Quebec,  Champlain  selected  the  site  for  a 
trading-post  at  Montreal.     It  was  on  a  small  stream  which  enters  the 
St.  Lawrence  where  the  Custom-House  now  stands.    He  called  the  spot 
Place  Royale.     Though  coming  after  Cartier,  Champlain  is  rightly 
called  the  father  of  Canada.    Parkman  says  of  him    "  Of  the  pioneers 
of  the  North  American  forests,  his  name  stands  foremost  on  the  list. 
It  was  he  who  struck  the  deepest  and  foremost  stroke  into  the  heart 
of  their  pristine  barbarism.    At  Chantilly,  at  Fontainebleau,  at  Paris, 
in  the  cabinets  of  princes  and  of  royalty  itself,  mingling  with  the 
proud  vanities  of  the  court;  then  lost  from  sight  in  the  depths  of 
Canada,  the  ccmpanion  of  savages,  sharer  of  their  toils,  privations,  and 
battles,  more  hardy,  patient,  and  bold  than  they;  such,  for  successive 
years,  were  the  alternations  of  this  man's  life." 

On  the  14th  of  October,  1641,  Montreal  was  founded  by  Maison- 
neuve,  for  the  Company  of  Montreal,  who  had  obtained  a  cession  of 
the  whole  island.     In  the  following  spring  the  city  was  consecrated, 
under  the  name  of  Ville-Marie.     With  the  expedition  of  city  builders, 
numbering  57,  went  one  Mile.  Jeanne  Mance,  of  unfading  memory' 
carrying  with  her,  to  assist  in  the  founding  of  the  city,  a  sum  that 
would  be  equivalent  now  to  a  round  quarter  of  a  million.     This  was  the 
donation  of  a  wealthy  widow  in  France,  Madame  de  Bouillon.    Xot  till 
1643  did  the  Iroquois  learn  of  this  nev^  settlement;  but  then,  and  for 
half  a  century  thereafter,  the  city  found  itself  engaged  in  an  almost  in- 
cessant struggle  for  its  existence.    On  what  is  now  known  as  the  Place 
d'Armes,  Maisonneuve  had  a  hand-to-hand  contest  with  the  savages.    All 
through  this  terrible  half-century  of  trial  the  garrison  of  ViUe-Marie 
consisted  of  neve.-  more  than  50  men.     In  1668  ihe  rights  of  the  Com- 
pany of  Montreal  were  purchased  by  the  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  which 
still  holds  certain  seignorial  rights  over  the  island.     In  1665  the  Mar- 
quis de  Tracy  arrived  on  the  scene  with  a  portion  of  the  famous 
Carlgnan  Regiment,  and  broke  the  power  of  the  Mohawks.     By  1672 
the  population  of  the  city  had  increased  to  1,520,  and  suburbs  began 


CollegM,  HmpIUU,  ete. 

Mo  GUI  CDitfnitj,  E  2 
Redpath  Muaeum,  D  2 
Montreftl  College,  C 1 
Higb  School  (Pro.),  X>  2 
Viotorl*  Ho«pltt1,  E  i 
General  Hospital,  E  4 
WeMenino«plUl,B2 
Hotel  Di(U,  F  3 
Grey  Nunnery,  C  3 
Notre  Dame  Hoepital,  E  6 
HouM  of  BeAige  (Pro,),  E  S 


«"    «" 


CharchM. 

Rohan  Catiiouc. 

40,  Hotra  Dame  de  Lourdei,  F  i 

41.  Jciuit'i,  £  8 
<a.  Bt.  Peter'i  Cathedral,  D  3 
i%  Notre  Dame,  D  4 
44.8t.  Jamel',F4 
46.  Bt.  Patnek'i  Cathedral,  D  .1 

EriKOPAU 
48.  Chrlit  Church  Cathedral,  D  3 
4T.  Bt.  George'i,  D  8 
4S.  Trinity,  E  4 
40.  Grace,  B  4 

HimoDirr. 
10,  St.  Juie8',D  3 
M.  BUCharlcf*.  E3 

62.  Weft  End,  B  3 

FHEtBYTtaiaM. 

63.  St.  Andrew's,  D  8 

64.  St.  Paul'»,  D  3 

66.  Ameriean,  C  8 

BaniiT. 

60.  French,  E  3 

67.  OUret,  C  3 

CoNasiOAnoiiai. 

68.  CalTary,C3 

69.  Emmanuel,  D  3 

SYNAOOaOTf. 

(SO.  Qerraaa  and  FolUh,  D  3 

61.  Bpaislah  and  Portugueae,  D  3 

■Uecllaneoni. 
92.  Cu»tom  Examlnere'  Warehouie,  D 

63.  Harbor  Office,  D  4 

64.  Montreal  Jail,  Q  6 


"•v. 


A 


W 


^^.^»  x.a  iionian  lias  loft  us  an  amusing  account  of  thereon- 
signment  of  prospective  bricies  which  were  sent  out  in  1684;  <' After 


Hallway  nrpatK. 

I.  Dtlhouilt  Bquuc, 
C.  P.  Rj.DE 

3.  WlndurBt., 
C.  P.  P.j.,C3 

3.  llonftTcaturCi 
a.T.Ry„C3 

HotAlt. 

4,  Balmenl.  D  4 
r>,  Exohan;^,  D  & 

U.  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  D  4 

7.  Wlndnr,  D  3 

Theatm,  etc. 

8.  Aotdemy  of  Muaic,  D  3 

9.  Art  Oallerj,  D  3 

10.  Cjclorama,  E  3 

II.  Royal  theatre,  E  4 

12.  Queen'a  Theatre,  D  3 

13,  Bobmer  Park,  F  5 

11.  Victoria  Skating  Rlok,  D  S 


I'ublle  liiilidlnip,  etc. 

CIlj  Hall,  E  4 

Court  BouM,  E  4 

Poet  Offloe,  D  4 

Cuitom  Itoiue,  I>  4 

Board  ofTraJo,  D  4 

Fnucr  loatltate,  D  3 

Dink  of  Hoatreal,  F.  4 

Merchant*  Dank,  D  4 

Y,  M.  C.  A,  BuiUlus,  D  S 

NaL  ni.1t.  Society's  Mmeum,  D  S 

ArchbUhop'a  Palace,  D  3 

Drill  Hall,  E  4 

Victoria  Araory,  D  3 

Cr7.UlRiiik.C3 


Cmontre 


;  f- 


!   :i 


72 


the  population  of  the  city  had  increased  to  1,620,  and  suburbs 'began 


MONTKEAt.. 


65 


.0  appear  „u.„d.  the  w.ll,.      Bu,,  .h„„gh  the  Moh.»k»  had  been 
oruAcd  war  „,  «ill  the  heritage  of  .„i,  cltj,  „h„«  foundatl  lid 
bee,,  „„der  .  e  a„.pice,  of  a  religion  of  peace.    I„  ,690  .  li.Ta™' 
of  20n  Ipench  and  Indians  made  an  exp^niition  from  Montreal  on,„Z 
shoe,  ,„„,l,wa,J  through  the  wilder„e,«,  and  laid  waste  w.h  flreTnd 
s>vord  the  Dutch  settlement  at  Schencetady.    The  retort  of  the  t*h 
eolomes  was  an  expedition  in  force  under  Governor  Winthrop  and   f  „' 
fcehuyler,  wh.ch  advanced  on  Montreal  by  way  of  Lake  cZml! 
wh  e  .  fleet  under  Sir  William  Phipps  was  sen[  a^ «  ^..tbeT'  2 
".  those  days  the  star  of  New  France  was  in  the  Lendan.    and  b""h 
forces  were  triumphantly  repulsed. 

After  the  victory  of  Wolfe  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham  Montreal 
was   he  spot  in  which  the  power  of  Franee  in  America  ml "7  as 
•and.    About  its  walls  the  armies  of  England  closed  in  swift  l„d 

.Ub''2mofl<X"""""J"°'  Mependenee  Colonel  Ethan  Allen, 
mlh  200  of  his  "Green  Mountain  Boys,"  advanced  to  the  attack  of 
Montreal,  but  was  defeated  and  taken  prisoner  by  Governor  ciriif 
Later  came  Montgomery,  and  forced  the  cit,  to  capitul.Te     Jkn   "i 
was  taken  possession  of  in  the  name  of  the  Continental  Cong^^s"  Id 
Bemamm  Franklin  came  north  and  endeavored  to  persuadele  Can" 
d.ans  to  o„,n  m  the  rebellion,    m  this  attempt  he  failed  sirallv    but' 
he  left  bel^d  him  a  memorial  of  his  presence  by  establistol? 'ets 
paper.    Ttas  journal,  the  Gazette,  which  enjoys  ,„  this  da^  I  prl 
perous  .x,s.ence,  is  now  marked  by  a  sturdy  liyalty  which  be  10'™  e" 

aid  Mon.1.1     °' """'B'^'-J'  «  Q-'b^".  the  American  forces  evaeu. 
SostiffT  '  """'■'"''"■■'«  '«-  "or  streets  known  the  tread  of 

A  quaint  episode  in  the  early  history  of  Montreal  is  connected  with 

1  hlT"  't"™'  '"™''^  ■"''■"'°-''-    ■"■-  -t-aTwhcn  tl 
■me  had  expired,  were  disbanded  and  settled  in  Canada.    In  embrae 
ng  a  farmer's  life  they  found  themselves  in  need  of  many  thinl    ot' 
f onnerly  deemed  essential.     Above  all,  they  needed  wive,  if^r  w^a   • 

selected  m  France  and  shipped   to   Canada  to  supply  this  lon"-felt 
want.    Baixin  La  Hontan  has  left  us  an  amusing  alunt  of    he'con 
signment  of  ppective  brides  which  were  senUu,  in"  W4  ""After' 


■•I 


ee 


MONTR  KAL. 


(  i 


if 


the  reduction  of  these  troops  many  vessels  loaded  with  girls  were  sent 
out  under  the  direction  of  some  old  beginners,  who  divided  them  into 
three  classes.     These  damsels  were,  so  to  speak,  piled  up,  the  one  on 
the  other,  in  three  different  chambers,  where  the  husbands  chose  their 
wives,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  butcher  goes  to  choose  his  sheep  in 
the  nndst  of  the  flock.     There  was  material  to  content  the  fantastical 
m  the  diversity  of  girls  in  these  three  scraglloi— for  there  vcre  to  be 
seen  there  tail  and  short,  fair  and  brown,  lean  and  fat ;  in  short  every 
one  found  a  shoe  to  fit  his  foot.     At  the  end  of  fifteen  days  not  one 
remained.     1  urn  told  that  the  fattest  were  the  soonest  carried  off  be- 
cause it  was  imagined  that,  being  less  active,  they  would  have  more 
trouble  to  leave  theii  housekeeping,  and  would  better  resist  the  cold  of 
tne  winter ;_  but  many  people  who  went  on  this  principle  were  taken  in 
by  It.  .  .  .  Those  who  desired  to  marry  addressed  themselves  to  the 
directresses,  to  whom  they  were  bound  to  declare  their  property  and 
faculties  before  choosing  from  these  three  classes  her  whom  they  found 
to  their  taste.     The  marriage  was  concluded  on  the  spot  by  the  aid  of 
the  priest  and  the  notary,  and  the  next  day  the  Governor  caused  to  be 
distributed  to  the  married  a  bull,  a  cow,  a  hog,  a  sow,  a  cock,  a  hen, 
two  barrels  of  salt  meat,  eleven  crowns,  and  certain  acres." 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST. 
The  tourist  visiting  Montreal  will  probably  go  first  to  that  famous 
palace  hotel,  the  Wimkor,  which  is  one  of  the  finest  hotels  on  the  con- 
tinent.     The  Windsor  is,  moreover,  one  of  the  centers  of  Montreal  life 
and  its  rotunda  is  the  great  trysting-place  for  Montreal's  inhabitants' 
Before  undertaking  to  "  do  "  the  city  one  should  view  it  as  a  whole 
from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  so  possess  one's  self  of  the  "  lay  " 
of  the  streets  and  chief  points  of  interest,  and  equip  one's  self  with 
a  proper  realization  of  the  magnificence  of  the  city's  island  throne 
Gaining  the  summit  by  beautifully  winding  drives,  or  more  directly  by 
what  seems  an  endless  stairway,  we  stand  on  what  was  once  an  active 
volcano.     Far  below,  between  the  mountain  and  the  river,  lies  spread 
out  the  broad  confusion  of  the  city  roofs  and  streets  and  towers,  fringed 
along  the  shining  water-limits  with  the  masts  and  funnels  of  its  ship, 
ping.     Beyond  the  water  lie  great  breadths  of  flat  country,  bounded 
on  the  far  horizon  by  the  twin  mountains  of  St.  Hilaire.     In  an- 
other  direction  we  see  a  silent  city  clinging  to  the  steep— the  ceme- 
teries  of  Cdtcdes-Kciges  and  Mourd  Royal.     Away  to  the  westward 


MONTREAL. 


67 


over  Aun'«  hl.nd  the  surges  of  iMchim  are  flittering  in  the  8un 
StraigJ,t  across  the  river,  almost  in  the  center  of  the  panorama,  runs 
the  famous  Victoria  Bridge,  regarded  at  the  time  of  its  con- 
struet.on  as  the  eighth  wonder  of  the  world.  Some  distance  to  tho 
left  St.  Ihhnh  Island  divides  the  giant  strcan. ;  and  in  the  middle 
distance,  do.ninating  the  roofs  of  the  city,  rise  the  n.ajestic  twin 
towers  of  Notre  Dame.  On  the  other  side  of  the  mount,  'n,  fenced 
l».V  the  reaches  of  Back  River,  lie  the  opulent  villages,  fanns  and 
orchards  which  Imve  earned  for  Montreal  Island  the  title  of  the  (;ar. 
den  of  Canada. 

Descending  the  mountain  and  re-entering  the  mazes  of  the  streets 
we  make  our  way  first   to  the   historic  Place  d^Armes      This  was 
f  ,c  first  burying-ground  of  the  pioneers.     Now  it  is  a  railed  space  of 
trees,  cool  with  the  spray  of  its  fountain  and  with  the  shade  of  the 
stately  buddmgs  surrounding  it.     On  the  south  side  stands  the  parish 
church  of  Notre  Dame,  one  of  the  largest  ecclesiastical  structures  on 
the  continent.     It  accommodates  10,000  people  easily,  and  has  been 
i<nown  to  contain  15,000  within  its  walls.     Its  towers  are  22V  ft  hi-h 
It  has  a  magnificent  chime  of  11  bells,  of  which  one,  called  the  G^os 
liourdon,  IS  the  largest  in  America,  and  weighs  29,400  pounds      From 
the  summit  of  the  tower  which  contains  ti.e  bells  a  splendid  view  is 
obtained.    The  entire  cost  of  the  Church  of  Notre  Dame  was  in  the 
neighborhood  of  $6,000,000. 

Alongside  of  Notre  Dame  stands  the  ancient  Seminar^/  of  St  Sul. 
pice  built  more  than  two  centuries  ago,  its  ma.ssive  wall,  pierced  with 
loopholes,  looking  grimly  down  on  the  thronged  and  peaceful  street. 
I  he  seminary  shares  with  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  whose  pillared  abode 
rises  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  square,  the  distinction  of  bein^  the 
wealihiest  institution  in  America.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
riace  d  Armes  throng  the  splendid  structures  of  the  Post-Office  the 
Jacqi^s-Cartier  Bank,  the  Banque  Nationale,  and  the  buildings  of  the 
New  York  Life  and  other  insurance  companies. 

As  far  as  situation  goes,  and  perhaps  in  other  respects  as  well  the 
finest  square  in  the  city  is  Dominion  Square.  It  is  high  and  spacious, 
and  about  it  gather  several  fine  churches  ;  the  vast  pile  of  the  Wind- 
sor  Hotel,  the  handsome  pile  containing  the  station  and  general  offices 
of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  resembling  the  keeo  of  a  Norman 
castle;  the  Y  M.  C.  A.  building;  and,  overshadowing  them  all,  the 
great  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  which  is  known  as  St.  Feter^s  in  spite 


f 


68 


MONTR  K  A  r-. 


Of  the  fact  that  «t.  James  is  Its  pation  M.Unt.  Tt.is  n«,bU.  «tnictnre 
l8  a  /ae^mite  of  Ht.  Peter's  at  I{,„„o,  with  itn  (ll,ue„sion«  rednc-d 
•bout  one  half.  The  extreme  meaHurements  of  this  eathedral  are  ■ 
l*«nKth  .'133  ft.,  breadth  222  ft.,  height  2rt8  ft,  circumference  of  dome 
240  ft. 

Of  the  other  Roman  Catholic  churchcH  of  the  city  the  n.oat  Jnter- 
CHting  to  touriMtH  arc  the  beautiful  Church  of  Xotre  Dame  de  iMunle, 
on  the  corner  of  St.  Catherine  and  St.  Denin  St8. ;  the  Jemih^  Chnrch 
on  Hleury  St.,  with  its  unrivaled  frescoes  and  ex(|uisite  music-  the 
Chapel  of  Notre  Dame  de  Nazareth,  with  its  fine  paintings;  an.!  the 
famous  old  Jiomecoura  Church,  which  was  built  in  1771. 

Of  the  Anglican  churches  the  finest,  from  an  architectural  point  of 
view,  are  St.  Gcorye\  the  Church  of  St.  Jamen  the  Ap  „tfe,  and  the  stately 
Chrixt  Church   Cathedral  at  the  corner  of  Univer.^ity  and  St    Cath 
erine  Sts.    This  latter  structure  is,  r>crha,,s,  with  the  exception  of  Christ 
Church  Cathedral  at  Fredericto..,  the  most  ,  3rfect  specimen  of  pure 
Gothic  architecture  on  the  conth.ent.     A  noble  and  massive  structure 
IS  the  new  Methodist  church  on  St.  Catherine  St.     The  Presbyterians 
have  a  number  of  fine  churches,  of  which  the  most  noteworthy-  archi- 
tecturally,  are  St.  Panl\  the  Crescent  Street,  and  the  America7i  Prexb,,. 
ierian.     The  old  St.  GabrieV,  Church,  which  was  erected  in  n9->  iit 
the  west  end  of  the  Champ-de-Mars,  is  still  standing,  and  now  shelters 
the  School  of  Art.     Montreal  has  three  Jewish  synagogues,  one  of 
which,  lately  erected  on  Stanley  St.,  is  an  impressive  structure  some- 
what after  the  "nes  of  an  old  Egyptian  temple. 

Besides  the  Place  d'Armes  and  Dominion  S(,uare,  already  referred  to 
Montreal  has  other  parks  and  squares.   She  is  well  supplied  with  breath' 
mg-places.     There  is  the  histoiic  Chm,v  de  Mars,  on  Craig  St.  still  used 
as  a  parade-ground.     Near  the  City  Hall  is  Jacques-Cartier  Square 
adorned  by  two  Russian  guns  from  the  spoils  of  Sebastopol,  and  by  a  Co\ 
umn  and  statue  erected  in  1808  in  memory  of  Nelson.     At  the  junc- 
tion of  McGill  and  St.  James  Sts.  is  Victoria  Square,  formerly  the  hay- 
market,  presided  over  by  a  colossal  bronze  statue  of  the  Queen      On 
St.  Denis  St.,  the  aristocratic  French  residence  quarter,  are  the  Vigcr 
Oardcm.     St.  Helen's  Island,  moreover,  is  now  used  as  a  public  park 
though  belonging  to  the  English  Government.     It  is  the  favorite  resort 
o[  the  city  picnickers,  and  forgets  its  martial  experiences  of  old  times 
Champlam's  wife,  in  whose  honor  the  island  is  named,  was  the  first 
European  woman  of  gentle  birth  to  cast  in  her  lot  with  Canada     A 


I 


MONTREAL. 


69 


place  of  resort  which  the  tcmriHt  hIiouKI  not  fiiil  to  visit  h  the  Bon- 
iecours  Market.  The  great  inaiket-chiyH  are  TueHilay  and  Friday 
when  the  broad  space  ih  thron-ed  with  hahilanlH*  ,,„,!  (,„«  comes  into 
clone  contact  with  the  quaint  materia!  of  which  French  Canada  is  really 
made  up. 

Montreal  is  not  only  a  city  of  churches,  but  of  hospitals  and  bencv- 
olent  institutions  as  well.     The  larf;est  and  wealthiest  of  these  is  the 
mtcl.Dini,  under  the  mann},'eii.ent  of  the  HIaek  Nuns.     This  institu. 
tion  was  foun.led  in  U\ii.     The  famous  CJrey  Nunnery,  founded  in 
1738,  is  not  a  convent,  but  a  hospital,  undir  the  management  of  the 
Grey  Nuns.     According  to  Murray's  Guide  to  .Montreal,  "  The  nauic 
♦Grey  Nuns'  was  first  },dven  them  in  derision.     The  malicious  reports 
eirculated  against  the  ladies,  especially  that  of  furnishing  the  Indians 
with  alcohol,  and  maiving  too  free  a  use  of  it  themselves,  gave  rise  to 
the  epithet  'S.eurs  (irises,'  the  word  ffrisc  hearing  a  double  meaning  in 
French,  viz.,  a  gray  color,  or  tipsy."     '.i.e "Sisters  who  were  thus  cruelly 
assailed  have  nuide  the  once  i)pprobriou8  epithet  a  title  of  the  highest 
honor.     The  best  time  for  visitors  to  call  at  the  Grey  Nunnery  is  at 
the  noon  hour,  when  callers  are  always  made  welcome.     The  liw/at  lie 
lorin  Hospital  is  the  gift  of  two  of  Montreal's  chief  citizens.  Sir  (Jcorgc 
Stephens  and  Sir  Donald  Smith.     Just  below  Ilochelaga,  beyond  the 
eastern  limits  of  the  city,  stood  the  vast  structure  of  the  Lotiffue  Pointc 
Asjilum,  which  was  burned  to  the  ground  in  the  summer  of  1890.    This 
institution  was  in  charge  of  a  Roman  Catholic  religimis  order.     Sixty 
of  the  inmates,  including  several  ol  the  nuns  in  charge,  perished  in  the 
conflagration. 

Among  the  educational  institutions  are  McGill  Unirersity,  the 

Presbyterian  College,  the  Montreal  College  or  Seminary  of  t^t.  sJpice 
the  Veterinary  Colleffe,  St.  Mary's  or  the  Jesuif^^  Col/ecfe,' tho  Montreal 
branch  of  Laval  [fniversity,  whose  parent  institution  is  at  Quebec  the 
ViUa.Maria  Convent  School  for  Girls,  and  the  Girls'  School  of  the  JVuvs 
0/  the  Sacred  Heart.  Of  these  the  most  important  is  of  course  McCJill 
University,  which,  under  the  presidency  of  the  renowned  Sir  William 
Dawson,  has  grown  to  a  world-wide  fame  and  influence.  The  pride  of 
the  city,  it  receives  munificent  gifts  from  wealthy  dtizens,  and  is  ever 
reaching  out  to  wider  spJieres  of  usefulness.  Its  buildings,  which  arc 
on  Sherbrooke  St.,  the  "  Fifth  Avenue  "  of  Montreal,  stand  in  the  midst 


*  French  Canadian  ccuntry-folk. 


70 


i  ft 


i 


!   [' 


MONTREAL. 


of  f -.e  groundH,  and  contain  a  good  library  and  the  famous.  Redpath 
Museun,.     Affiliated  with  MeCJiil  are  the  Presbyterian,  Congregational, 
Wesleyan,  mu  Anglican  Colleges  of  Montreal,  together  with  Morrin 
(.ollege  at  Quebec  and  Si,.  Frances  College,  Richmond.     The  tourist 
wd  00  well  to  visit  the  Art  Gnller;,  on  Phillips  Square,  and  the  rooms 
01  the  AatHvnl  Hutor,,  Society  on  University  St.     The  museum  of  this 
8«ei.-'ty  IS  the  best  in  Canada.     Among  its  treasures  are  the  "Ferrier 
(  olleetion"  of  Egyptian  antiquities,  the  most  perfect  of  its  kind  on  the 
.  ont.nent.     Here  also  may  be  seen  the  first  breech-loading  gun  ever 
ioade.     We  read  in  Muray  s  Guide  that  "it  was  sent  out  to  this  coun- 
try  by  the  French  Government.     It  was  used  by  the  French  in  one  of 
their  expeditions  against  the  Indians  of  Lake  Oka.     The  Indians  at- 
tacked the  canoe  in  which  the  cannon  was  placed  and  upset  it      The 
cannon  lay  for  a  while  in  the  bottom  of  the  lake,  and  one  part  of  it  was 
lost  there  and  never  found."     The  museum  ,vlso  contains  the  best  exist- 
mg  collection  of  Canadian  birds. 

One  of   the  clrfef  "lions"  of   Montreal  is  the  famous  Victoria 
Bridge,  already  mentioned  as  the  "  eighth  wonder  of  the  world  "    The 
engineering  genius   that   spanned  the  Menai  Strait -the  genius  of 
Robert   Stephenson    and   Alexander   M.  Ross-designed  this   mi-hty 
structm.  by  which   the  Grand  Trunk  Ry.  crosses  the  St.   Lawrence 
from  Montreal  to  the  south  shore.     VV^ith  a  length  of  a  few  yards  less 
than  2  miles,  this  is  the  longest  bridge  in  the  world.     It  is  a  vast  tube 
supported  on  24  piers,  exclusive  of  the  terminal  abutments.     The  tube 
has  inside  diameters  of  22  ft.  vertical  ana  lb  ft.  horizontal.     From  the 
bed  oi  the  river  to  the  top  of  the  center  tube  is  a  distance  of  108  ft. 
The  current  of  the  St.  Lawrence  at  this  point  has  a  speed  of  about  1 
nnles  an  hour.     The  cost  of  the  bridge  was  $6,300,000,  and  its  con- 
struction  occupied   five   years  and  a  half.      It  was  formally  opened 
by  the  Prince  of  Wales  In   I860.     Close  by  the  bridge,  at  Point  St. 
Uiarle-s,  ,s  the  burying-ground  of  6,000  immigrants  who  died  in  1847- 
48  of  a  frightful  epidemic  of  ship-fever.    In  the  center  of  the  buryin- 
ground  ,s  a  huge  bowlder  known  as  the  Lnmiffmnts^  Mcm.-ial  S^oZ 
which  was  taken  from  the  bed  of  the  river  and  raised  on  a  olumn  of 
masonry  by  the  workmen  engaged  in  the  construction  of  the  brid-e 

In  sharp  contrast  with  the  gigantic  tube  of  the  Victoria  Biid'^re  is 
the  aerial  structure  by  which  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  crosses  the 
ht.  Lawrence  at  Lachine.  This  bridge  is  b-ilt  on  the  most  modern 
design,  and  is  a  l>rilliant  application  of  the  cantilever  principle      Its 


MONTREAL. 


71 


spans  appear  like  clusters  of  great  steel  cobwebs.  Tbey  offer  little 
resifltancd  to  the  winds,  and  combine  the  greatest  strength  with  the 
least  possible  weight. 

Prominent  among  the  buildings  of  Montreal  are  the  new  Victoria 
Hospital,  the  capacious  Bmavenkire  Depot,  belonging  to  the  Grand 
Trunk  Ry.,  and  the  splendid  station  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  on  Wind- 
sor St.  This  latter  edifice  may  honestly  be  called  palatial,  resembling 
as  it  does  a  palace  far  morethan  a  railway  station. 

In  connection  with  the  water-supply  of  Jlontreal  there  is  a  point  of 
interest  for  the  tourist.  This  is  the  great  reservoir,  which  is  hewn  out 
of  the  solid  rock  far  up  the  side  of  the  mountain.  The  reservoir  has 
a  capacity  of  36,500,000  gallons.  It  is  supplied  by  an  aqueduct 
which  leads  the  water  of  the  St.  Lawrence  from  above  the  Lachine 
Rapids  to  a  point  on  the  western  limit  of  the  city,  whence  it  is 
pumped  up  the  mountain  to  the  reservoir. 

The  tourist  who  is  interested  in  athletics  and  outdoor  sports  will 
see  some  splendidly  contested  Lacrosse  matches  at  the  grounds  of  the 
Shamrock  and  Montreal  Clubs,  and  he  will  do  well  to  visit  the  admi- 
rably equipped  gymnasium  of  the  Montreal  Amateur  Athletic  Associa- 
tion and  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  building  on  Dominion  Square.     At  the  La- 
crosse Grounds  matches  are  usually  being  played  on  Saturday  after- 
noons, or  other  days  as  advertised,  and  admission  is  by  ticket.     If 
he  is  at  all  touched  with  Anglomania  he  will  be  enraptured  with  the 
Montreal  Hunt  Club,  the  best-conducted  establishment  of  the  kind 
on  the  continent.     In  respect  of  sports,  Montreal  is  as  well  off  in  win- 
ter as  in  summer.     Men  and  women  alike  are  enthusiastic  devotees 
of  the  iiardy  pastime  of  tobogganing.     Perhaps  the  best  skaters  and 
snow-shoers  in  the  world  are  the  sons  and  daughters  of  Montreal.     Her 
Winter  Carnivals,  with  their  ice  castles  stormed  by  torchlight,  their 
gay  skating  tournaments  and  masquerades,  their  unrivaled  snow-shoe 
parades,  have  become  world-famous.     The  climax  of  the  Carnival  is 
the  assault  upon  the  ice-castle,  whicli,  illuminated  within  by  electric 
light,  flames  with  a  white  and  ghostly  radiance  recalling  the  dream- 
palaces  of  Kublai  Khan.     Down  the  mountain  wind  the  assailing  lines 
of  torch-bearers,  their  strange  costumes  more  strange  in  the  lurid  Ught ; 
and  the  spectral  citadel  is  carried  with  tumult,  amid  a  many-colored 
storm  of  rockets,  Roman  candles,  and  all  the  most  gorgeous  of  pyro- 
technic devices.    Last  winter  the  Carnival  was  held  in  Quebec,  instead 
of  in  Montreal. 


1^ 


\ 


72 


Montreal. 


me  Least  Money. 

«'.^.//,  the  co„...*^,  ivw««;'^,  :f;i7.*7'.\''-^- 

J^resbt/Zerian  Church  and  nnt  f  ^«""w»2c«^  bt.  Gabriel  St.  old 

Gill  St.  to  Vi„,„™  Sa„a  "    °  '"'"■'"■'''  '""'er  W.    Then  walk  „p  Mc 

Thence  retrace  vour  sten,  J.,        i^ ,,'  ''""'"'""=  "-"i  St.  Denis  St8. 
«.ere  U  the  oM^  r^Vrra  /"X^^C  f '™'^  ^•■' »"'' 

Brar^hV^;j:'\r;T;°;n'*^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

museum  in  connection  with  the  ceS  I  h'™;:„""' '"'"'"""« 
payment  of  a  small  entrance  feel  and  ,.r  k  '""^  ™"'''  "»' 

voirs;  and  if, on  don't  wir  o  ;„  cab  I.  L""  ".^  T  "'■''  "'"'" 
m-ntain,  you  can  g„  „p  Uy  the  eleva.  „'  *  S"en  af  I'""  1'"' 
taken  a  cood  view  nf  n,o  c.  j-  '  ^rter  you  have 

motrntainfand^I^^ed  .  :;:  "^."""'■■y  """'  ""^  "P  "'  *e 

city  by  the  omni;:^!'  i;:™:r '°". ""  ^""^  ""* '» "-^ 

oven,  Of  necessary  e.,JX:u^°;^Z:ZrVoT  """  T 
added  the  fact  that  thp  np«.  ni.  .  •  ^"  *'"^  '""st  be 

and  will  carry  the  trlvel  '   .    1     "/"'  ''"*""  ""  ''''  *''  ''''"^««^' 
di  ry  me  traveler  to  almost  any  part  of  the  city. 


MONTEEAL  TO   ST.   lOHN. 

From  Kontreal  to  St.  John. 


73 


From  Montreal  the  tourist,  who  has  already  visited  Oaebee  ■„,„ 

ttr;mo*f  "*;fr'"" "'  '-^  Canada;  pLt^LHi^: 

(fare,  tUM;  return,  $19)  whieh  traverses  the  so-called  Eastern  Tow^ 
s^ups,  the  great  hunting  and  Ashing  districts  about  AkeZZ^i: 

man  rae rtc  R.  R.  bndge  KtZachhu:,  and  run  through  the  Indian  villare 
olCau,,,na„a!,a,M,ere6ne«  the  remnants  of  the  Iroquois  Thefe 
Iud,.ns  arc  magniacent  boatmen,  and  in  the  late  E=j.p,i.rX  a  ba"d 
N  le  At  t",  '  T'""''"  '"*^  ""■  •^"Sland  i;f  t'e  rapid  of  he 
veiges  for  the  11  hile  Moimlaim.  8oon  we  come  in  sirhl  of  3/.™  ; 
-«•.  shining  waters,  watched  over  b,  thrf  m  f  plf7F;: 
Phant,s  and  Owl's  Head.    From  Ma„  Nation  a  steamer  dp  rtsdf^; 

reports  tor  wliieh  the  region  is  famous.    After  passing  Ma^oe  the  „.„ 
.mportant  station  is  Ska-i^ooke,  the  me.ropoH   of  the  E«c™  To" 
ships  a  pretty  cityat  the  junction  of  the  Magog  and  St.  Frnci   Rivers' 
Sherbrooke  has  a  population  of  between  9,000  and  10  000    and'; 
bmlding  up  a  large  manufacturing  interest.    The  falls  of  .hi  M 

j„    ,     .  ^ijui-uti,  i^entral  ii.  h.  runs  throueh  a  nnifllv 

developmg  ,      ,„  y„^^^     ^  ^^^  fre  be  inter 

of  re  ateh  of  r    r^  "°""''"-''  '""  "'  ^-"-"'i'l',  the  scat 

Col  .  e*h„„|  th"'  '""""""'  "'  '''*°'''''  "o"'^"'^  and  Bishop's 
nrt™!         ,       ?         '"'""Itions  have  of  late  been  making  very  .>reat 

has  lately  suffered  a  severe  blow  in  the  destruction  by  fire  of  the  fine 
.ertTXr?.  '"  the  neighborhood  of  Lenuoxville  a  p'l:  „ft 
thl!    1  I  .       ■  ""'""""^^  ««l>e<I  the  Geneva  of  Canada  where 

we  come  .:Tv  m'  ''^="""""  '"^  """  «»"'  «■">  i»  '-ted  '  T  Z 
we  come  to  Lake  .Megamic,  a  body  of  water  12  miles  long  from  I  to  4 

:ur;.rr:soTrfi:iinr'  -r-™- ''-  °"-«" 

o  ""c  le&uic  oi  nbli.        1  here  la  fair  nec"m!"n'i3fmn  -i-'   ^r 

u^  «»«»»,  and  competent  guide,  may  be  procured  ^  the  spol  'ITw 


.1 


--  i 

: 


74 


MONTUKAI,   TO   ST.   JOHN. 


nulos  hoyond  Moj?antlc  we  cross  tl.e  l.o.u.daiy.llno,  and  find  ourselves 
In  the  State  of  Maine.     Twenty  ini!..8  fron.  Me^-untie  Station  we  run 
into  tlu.  village  of  l^owvlltovn.     Tlu-n  e«.n.es  (h-vmviUe,  on  the  shore 
of  the  giftn(h>st  of  all  Maine  waters,  the  famous  M,Hmehmd  Lake.     This 
water  is  10  miles  long  and  from  1  to  15  wide.     Its  seencry  is  mafrnifi- 
eent  and  varied,     its  waters  are  splendidly  stocked  with  trout  of  great 
8i/.e,  and  around  its  shores  are  a.lmirable  shootinK-firounds,  where  one 
may  bag  such  game  as  moose,  bear,  deer,  and  earibo.,,  to  say  nothit.g 
of  grouse  innumerable.     At  (Jreenville  are  guides  and  eanoes,  and  sev- 
eral  comfortable  hotels,     from  (hrninUe  Jumtion  the  IJ.  k  \    R  R 
divergt>s  to  ()!dt,.wn  and  Mangor,  Me.     Steamers  run  to  all  the  points  of 
n.terest  on  the  lake,  including  the  well-known  hlwo  //o«.v..  at  the  foot 
of  Mount  Kinco.     Moosehead  Lake  is  the  source  of  die  Kennehc  Hive,' 
which  flows  out  of  the  lake  at  Askwilh  Stnlhv.     In  the  100  nnles  of 
eon.parative  wilderness  between  Moosehead  Lake  and  Matiawamkeap 
the  chief  points  of  interest  are  IJoarstoue  Mountain  and  the  lovely  Lake 
Ouawii.     At  Ih'ommllr  Jwir/ion  we  cross  the  line  of  the  Katahdin  Iron 
Works  Jtailway.    At  Mattawamkemi  the  C.  P.  R.  R.  unites  with  the  line 
eonneeting  liamior  and  St.  John.     At  the  same  point  the  track  crosses 
the  Peuohscot  Rher.     Fron.  this  point  to  Vmevboro,  on  the  New  Rruns- 
wick  boundary,  we  pass  through  a  rugged  country,  full  of  lakes  and 
atrean.s,  and  dotted  here  and  there  with  crude  little  lumbering  villages 
Vanceboro  is  on  the  .SV.  CroU  lihrr,  the  outlet  of  the  boundary,  or  Chi- 
putnetieook  Lakes.   The  region  ,)f  these  lakes  is  a  good  one  for  the  sports- 
man,  and  Vanceboro  is  a  convenient  point  from  which  to  reach  them 
Six  miles  beyond  A'anceboro  is  MeAihrn  JmHion,  a  village  whose  houses 
are  piMrlunl  in  such  vacant  spaces  as  can  be  found  between  the  huge 
bowlders  which  cover  the  face  of  the  land.    At  McAdan)  connections  are 
made  for  II  (>(«/.v/,.e/-an.l  /WsqneJs/eto  the  N.,and  for  Cidah,  Ht.  Stephen, 
and  the  lovely  summer  resort  of  St.  And,rw\',  to  the  S.     Forty  ndles  be- 
yond McAduu.  is  the  little  village  of  Fredericton  Junction,  20  n.iles  irom 
Fre.lerieton  ;  and  a  run  of  44  nules  beyond  Fredericton  Junction,  through 
scenes  to  be  described  in  later  pages,  brings  us  to  the  city  of  .S^  John. 

Montreal  to  auebec  by  the  St.  Lawrence. 

If  the  tourist  has  not  seen  Qurba-,  then  assuredly  he  will  not  take 
the  short  lin(>  to  the  Maritime  Provinces.  By  one  of  throe  routes  he  will 
eerta.nly  betake  himself  to  a  city  that  is  perhaps,  in  many  respects,  the 
best  worth  seeing  on  the  continont  X.  of  Mexico;  and  from  Quebec 


MONTREAL   TO   QTTKBKC. 


n 


;  '  r'  *''   ""''''r  "^""'"^^  J^'"^''^'^-  ^^  ^^^^  intercolonial 
U     (  «      coas  .     P..o„.  Montreal,  one  n.ay  go  to  (^.ebec  either  by  the 

U   he  down  the  N.  shore,  or  by  Htean.er  down  the  :ni.hty  strean.  itHelf. 
Ah  ,   ,.  t    bo  preHun,ed  that  the  traveler  has  plenty  of  time,  and  desires 

pl     d.d  palaee  stean.ers  that  ply  between  Montreal  and  Quebec  belon-' 
0    l.e   luehehen  and  Ontario  Navigation  Con.pany.     The  distance ": 
180  nnles;  and  the  first-class  fa.e,  not  including  supper  or  berth  i    *8 

OS      A  7  "'"'•^.;"^"^  «^  ^«"t^-''H  -ti-n«  have  their  s,!m,nc 
bod    .     At  Longueu.1,  .n  177n,  Governor  Carloton  m^s  defeated  by 
tic  An.er.can  forces.     On   the  N.  shoe,  a   little   beyond    is  I^„„l 
/^....  with  the  ruins  of  the  great  asy.u'.n  already  .nTtl.^  X 
nnles  t,.on.  Montreal  we  pass  I'oin,au..7WnMes,L.  its  old  Frencl 
ch....cl.,  W1..C1.  was   built  in  1704.     A   little  farther  „„,  and  w  ear 
among  the  «at  and  .-eedy  Isles  of  Bone.ennUe,  where  ad.nirabl    a  e 
the  p.ko-fislnng  a.ul  duck-shooting  in  their  seasons.     Among  Lese 
«hoa  s  and  islands  and  reaches  of  slow  water,  the  ice,  in  the's     i  ^ 

Mont.,  a,  hnds  ve.-y  troubleson.e.     Fifteen  miles  f.-om  Montreal  is  the 
ha.nnngly  situated  health-resort  of    Varennc,  u.a6o  important  by  it 
n  n,e..al  spr.,.gs.     The  fields  of  Va.-ennes  are  washed  in  front  b/th 

^onv7;T'  "J."  ''''  '■'"■  '^  *^"  "•••""^  *''^«  "f  th«  '-elv  and  his- 
tonc  /e.a./.^.  Thrty  miles  beyond  Va.-ennes  the  Kichelieu  flows  into 
1.0  St  Lawrence.  At  this  point  stands  Sard,  which  has  lately  been  pro- 
mote to  the  dignity  of  a  city.  Here  in  16.5  a  fort  was  esta'blisLTy 
i)c  l.acy.  Sorol  was  for  a  long  time  the  summer  residence  of  the  Gov^ 
t^rlTfr     ''^^"  '^  '-'''  ««hingamongthe  islands  whici:  dus- 

anit!u  •      f    •    '  "Z'^'  "'"'  '"  ^''''^''  '^''  neighborhood  affords 
cap.tal  smpe-shooting.     The  population  of  Sorel  in  1881  was  5791 

nameVof'thToffi"'  Tf "  ''"^"  *'"  Richelieu  .re  perpetuated  the 

na,  es  o    the  officers  of  the  old  Carignan-Salieres  Regi.ncnt,  who  were 

ta^oned  on  se.gnor  es  throughout  this  region  to  guard  the  Approaches 

ol^^r  an      V'-  f  "*"'  P-^"--l-'y  puts  it,  they  are  picketed 

;ound  the  ancent  rendezvous  at  the  confluence  of  the  Richelieu  and 

-.  Lawrence,  ...  as  though  still  guarding  the  Troq„oi.  Kiver-Gate  " 

He..e,  besides  Va.-enner,  we  have  Berthier.^Lavaltrie;  BonchcrrCortre- 


i! 


I 


76 


MONTREAL   TO    QUEBEC. 


C(Bur  and  Verchores.  One  of  the  mcst  illuHtrious  c.f  Canada's  heroines 
18  Madeleme  daughter  of  Lieutenant  Verchcire..  Verohfires's  fort  was 
called  Castle  Dangerous,"  being  so  exposed  to  the  assa.dts  of  the  Iro- 
quo.s  On  one  occasion  Madeleine,  with  a  force  of  three  men  and  two 
ht  le  boys,  sustained  the  attacks  of  the  Iroquois  for  a  whole  week  till 
help  came  from  Quebec.  TI>e  girl  was  at  this  time  but  fourteen  y'eavs 
of  age.  Her  followers,  on  the  first  attack,  were  for  killing  themselves 
to  escape  the  torture  of  the  Iroquois,  but  her  dauntless  coura«^e  and 
energy  gave  them  new  heart,  and  her  wisdom  taught  them  to  conduct 
the  defense  successfully. 

The  valley  of  ihe  Richclim  was  for  two  ccnttiries  a  pathway  of  war 
along  which  fire  and  sword,  Iroquois  and  Abenakis,  French  and  Dutch 
and  English,  Canadian  and  American,  streamed  alterufitely  on  errands  of 
vengeful  hace.    The  tourist  who  wishes  to  travel  this  blood-stained  track 
will  ascend  through  landscapes  of  blended  sublimitv  and  peace,  and  find 
himself  at  le:,gth  on  the  bosom  of  that  magnificent  lake,  no  longer 
Canadian,  which  jet  perpetuates  the  name  of  the  Father  of  Canada 
bamuel  de  Champlain.     Like  the  war  parties  of  old,  he  will  find  him- 
self m  the  very  heart  of  the  State  of  Xew  York.     Unlike  those  ancient 
visitors,  however,  his  visit  will  be  not  unwelcome.     He  will  have  found 
his  ascent  of  the  rushing  Richelieu  made  easy  by  the  Chambhi  Canal 
He  will  have  traversed  the  rich  and  lovely  Eastern  Townships  and 
caught  their  distinctive  flavor.     He  will  probably  delay  his  trip,  and 
inger  long  and  wander  hither  and  thither  in  this  delightful  land  of 
lake  and  mountain.     Besides  Lakes  Memphremacfog  and  ATcffantic  he 
will  visit  the  lovely  waters  of  Brome  and  Afrmawippi.     Throu-h  the  wild 
maple-wooded  hills  he  will  trace  the  path  by  which,  in  1759,°the  aven- 
mg  band  of  Rogers's  Rangers  swept  to  the  slaughter  of  the  Abenaki's 
-atter  which  the  homes  of  New  England  had  peace  for  a  little 

But  the  strife  of  man  will  presently  be  forgotten  as  we  mark  how 
the  struggles  of  warring  Nature,  in  forgotten  ages,  have  scored  the  face 
of  all  this  region  with  their  gigantic  and  indelible  records.  The  effects 
of  these  ancient  cataclysms,  together  with  the  sphere  of  their  opera- 
tion, have  been  thus  well  described  by  Mr.  J.  Howard  Hunter  in  Pict 
uresque  Canada :  *  ' 

^  "Throughout  this  land  the  strata  have  been  much  shaken  and 
changed  by  some  Titanic  force-seemingly  steam  heated  beyond  'he 
scale  of  any  pyrometer,  and  tortured  under  pressure  which  would  be 
inadequately  gauged  by  thousands  of  tons  to  the  square  nch     sTr  Will 


MONTREAL   TO    QUEBEC. 


77 


Lake 


.9  equivalent  to  a  vertical  dlsSSJlnrnrr     ^l"'""^'''"^  «*r^ 
Westward  of  this  line  of  ruSeS       Tl'^  *'!0»«'^"d3  of  feef. 

the  sedimentary  rocks  that7ef:"|7eS"V;:^^^^^^^^         ^"-"^"'^  ""«- 
softened,  rearranged  their  elements  Ami  .0!^.       --o  incandescent  steam, 

Under  the  enormous  preZre  below 'the  si  r?J^  \^Y^  "■"  «'°"^  P««t^' 
and  sometimes  opened  w  dr  Inliantir  n?f  ;'vf'"***''':*''""*'-^«'-««kcd 
rushed  the  pasty  rock  formincr  d^l-l,  n/.  k  ?^  "^^'^^  ^"^  fis^^res 
the  very  granite  foundat^^sof  the  woHdT^^*'.'''".'^'""^^-  ^^  P'^^es 
followed  the  sedimentarrrocks  to  T}^^  *\^.V"  ^°^*^°«d  and 
yielded  most,  stately  nyrimWs  of  monnt.-''f-  ,^^''*"'''  ^he  ground 
is  to  such  throes  of  MoZr  Earth  J^""*«'°-P»'oV°Plf  sm  were  born.  It 
of  Bchul  Mountain  and  r«^S«    p'LZ  ""T  '^/  .^Z^""^"'  sisterhood 

line  more  intense  still  must  have  hopn  fil  Eastward  of  Logan's 

Memphremagog  with  such  soirinf  n.  I  ^^^^i^^^rgy  that  girdled  Lake 
and  Elephanlil  With"n  ifiStC^^"'  ^""'"  "^'-^^'^  ^'"''«  ^^<^l 
shaken  this  area,  but  even  he  moS  vinTT  ''"'''"  earthquakes  have 
pared  with  the  elementdwlrs  of  InloS"  ^''T^'^P^'^  P^«*™«  <^om. 
every  one  was  frightened  bv  these  l^}Sl  antiquity.  To  be  sure, 
killed.  From  the  records  of  h(  old  1^-1^  •''.^"*  *''«»  "«  «"«  was 
we  learn  that  on  the  5th  of  kptemif    7So™;f '^  '^^  ^''  ^''^"«i« 

rudely  shaken  as  to  deloy  its  S  tv  nf'  t'  YT  ^''"^^e  was  so 
are  still  discernible  on  both  de  of  ?e\?ver  u'"  ""''^^^^^  ^''^^^^^ 
more  violent,  was  the  famous  earthquake  of  Ififiq  T  ^f"''^''  ""^  f^"" 
ruary  began  a  series  of  convuIsiZ  whthiil  V  •  ^^^  ^*^  ""^  ^'^b- 
midsuM.mer.     Land-slides  occrJedaTl^^^^^^  .*^"'*'  disappear  till 

blue  St.  Lawrence  ran  white  a  fa'  down  asVado  "^«^-»'t"'^^  ^«d  the 
plained  the  phenomenon  in  his  own  wav  At  M..  ',  ^^"'^  ^"«  ^•^■ 
sciences  were  smitten  for  haiin-soM'fir/  .  *""*''*'?''  "''*  ^  ^^w  con- 
Indians,  however,  declared  thn?%H\r''i^'  ^"^  ^^^  ^''^^ans.  The 
struggli'ng  to  return  to  the  earth  v  hunting  "'  "^r  ^^''•^^«*hers  weJe 
fully,  they  kept  firing  off  thcrmus  eTs  tf f''""''!;  "•"^'  '"««^  ""^uti-  " 
'for,'  quoth  the  muslWrs  'it's  Sin  to  J X'  *^'^»«q»i«t  «i'-es ; 
on  earth  for  both  of  us ! '"  ^  ^^  **'®'"^^  °o*  game  enough 

The  earliest  recorded  name  of  th^   r;«>,„i-       t>. 

to  the  land  of  the  Mohawks     Th,>  ohilfT  '  .  ""'""-'  "  '""^ 

pretty  little  garri.on  oityTfl  I,         1        "  ^  ""^  '"'■•''*"'"'  '^  'he 

A  few  miles  belovv  the  mouth  of  the  Richelieu  thp  f,  r 
opens  out  into  the  gre..  expanse  called  Zai-o  ^SL     cttie""™''." 
th,s  water,  when  first  l,e  ascended  the  St.  Law^^^e  d  Y"™  T 
but  slxty-ei<iit  vonr<»  into,-  ;+  •  •     ,    '*"^*'"*^<^' ^ac  d  AngouI6me; 

Day  and  na-n   '  '"''  '''''*'*^  ^>'  Champlain  on  St.  Pp.o..'J 

l^aj,  and  namuu  m  pious  commemoration  of  the  festival.    The  lakeis 


1 


78 


MONTREAL   TO    QUEBEC. 


23  miles  In  length  by  9  nulcs  in  breadth,  and  is  shallow  ex..ent  in  the 
channel,  which  has  been  dredged  to  afford  safe  passage  to  the  largest 
■  ocean  steamers.     The  shallow  waters  are  subject  to  sudden  and  violent 
storms,  by  which  the  great  rafts  on  their  leisurely  way  to  Quebec  are 
frequently  wrecked.     The  wide  waters  of  Lake  St.  Peter  were  once 
famous  for  the  songs  of  the  raftsmen  delayed  on  the  sluggish  current 
At  the  foot  of  Lake  St.  Peter  is  a  sharp  bend  called  Poinle  Phton 
with  a  httle  island  over  against  it  whereon  of  old  stood  a  fort      It  was 
called  Fort  Richelieu,  and  was  established  by  Chan.plain  in  1633      All 
vestiges  of  the  fort  have  vanished,  but  its  memory  lingers  in  the  name 
of  the  swift  and  broken  water  below  Pointe  Platen,  which  is  known 
as  the  Richelieu  Kapid. 

A  little  below  Lake  St.  Peter  flows  in  from  the  north  the  great  St 
Maurice  River,  which  will  be  referred  to  later  on.    At  its  mouth  stands 
the  city  of  Three  Rivers,  ranking  third  in  importance  and  population 
among  the  cities  of  the  province.     This  city  stands  midway  between 
Montreal  and  Quebec,  at  the  head  of  tide-water  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
It  has  a  population  of  about  10,000,  and  is  the  center  of  a  heavy  trade' 
m  lumber  and  iron.     Around  the  city  lie  vast  deposits  of  bog-iron  ore 
and  the  great  lumbering  interests  of  the  upper  St.  Maurice  find  an  outlet 
through  its  port.     Three  Rivers  is  the  see  of  a  Roman  Catholic  bishop 
whose  cathedral  is  an  imposing  structure.     The  city  derives  its  name 
from  the  fact  that  the  river  on  which  it  stands  enters  the  St  Lawrence 
by  three  mouths.     It  was  founded  in  1618,  and  played  an  important 
part  m  the  early  history  of  Canada.     The  smelting  of  iron  was  be-un 
at  Three  Rivers  as  early  as  1737.     The  city  is  rendered  the  moreln- 
teresting  by  the  masses  of  legend  and  romantic  tradition  that  cluster 
about  it,  offering  a  field  which  las  hardly  been  touched  save  by  the  pen 
of  the  French-Canadian  author,  Benjamin  Suite.     It  will  well  repav  an 
extended  visit.     Steamers  ply  from  the  city  wharves  to  the  adjacent 
nver  villages.     Within  easy  reach  are  many  larjre  mountain  brooks 
s  varming  with  trout;  and  from  the  city  one  may  conveniently  visit  the 
splendid  fishing  waters  of  the  upper  St.  Maurice.     A  stage-ride  of  26 
miles  from  Three  Rivers  takes  one  to  the  famous  miuemi  sprin-s  of 
8t.  Leon.     On  the  south  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  opposite  Three 
Rivers,  is  the  village  ot  Doucefs  Landing,  the  terminus  of  the  Artha- 
baska  and  Three  Rivers  branch  of  the  G.  T.  Ry.,  which  connects  the  city 
with  the  Eastern  Townships. 

A  short  distance  below  Three  Rivers  we  pass  the  village  of  Batiscan, 


MONTKEAL   TO    QUEBEC. 


79 


at  the  mouth  of  tho  Batinc-an  River.    River  and  village  are  named  after 
an  Indian  duef  famous  in  the  early  history  of  Unada      Th     nt 
vllage  commemorates  the  apparently  omnipresent  Ste.  Anne-in  "h  « 
case  called  S^e.  Anne  de  la  Penul.     Beyond  St.  Anne's  lies  the    nc  '^ 
Qu  beTh    °J'77«f --*'-.  -'-e,  during  the  final  sic^^^  o 
EnT^H  h      Tlf'l"     "'^^^r™'  — "^«-  between  Froncl' and 

of  m:  J.  M  L  m!;:::^'  '""^"" "  *'''^"  ^■^"'" '-  — '-^"^  p-^- 

pa^t  three  in  the  Z^^^t^'t^Z^  h'T'^'^'  '^'^"^  *>«'^- 
church  in  capturing  aboutth  e^nladir  AmoL  tZ7  •''"""^•*''^ 
were  Mesdamos  Duehesniiv  Dp  pj„.,«  -Vl  i  ^'"<^"K  the  fair  captives 
and  Mdlle.  CouiUaJd      JS  jl^^S  i'ot'a^^  «i«ter, 

part  of  them.  Thev  were  treZd  with  1  i  •  ^""?"  ''""""'^  ^o^-^ed 
(General  Wolfe  heaL)     he  d  .  a^m  nt  ,2r  JS^  "^  ■?'''''■  .  ^^""g 

name  of  her  captor        °  '  "^^       '    ^°^  "^"P"™  '»■■  "»  ''•y  bore  the 

young  so!dior.„wa;dt"«yllt''t;;*''  Nex".  ZM^i"-"'!!  l'  "■" 
were  bronght  home  In  bo,{,  and  laSd  .,TJ^A^,  tT"''' 

their  release,  to  retire  to  a  plice  of  safelf  Wh      ™''"™,  """'•  "fo"- 
.759  Madame  Wolfe,  MadaCfstebo  £la™ '^7"°"  w'S^t"""',  'l 

^::nS:rTyib!!roet;s;it;  rr.^^^^^^^^^^ 
Sh'irbrt^o:^;s^i„feii^~^^^ 

his  spirited  though  unsLessM  deS^thl  ;ote1,ir!,fti:i;;tS.^ 

.„/",',""'  P»"/<"'»"«-C'"*'- J?»"-,  famous  for  its  salmon-fishins 
and  well  stocked  with  tront.  Here  the  shores  of  the  St.  Law  enee 
begm  to  grow  more  bold  ard  picturesque.     Lower  down  ,-.  pa-Ito 


If  <a 


m 


80 


MoNTHKAr,   To   yil.IIWJ. 


tho  ol..„r  .nnnilMK  liKlu.tlio  ..I.I  v «..  „f  Si.  ,  I  »,/«./,„,  whom-  (irnt 

'•'""•'•I'-  l"'ilt   ii'   I  (Mm.  ..nj.iy.Ml.  .urunlli.n  lu  tiiMlitloii,  a  vny  |Mriillur 
.ll^-tlncfl...!.     It  IH  tuM  Mint  fl.,.  .lovil,  in  tli..  ^nllH,.  of  h  ^iKa.UU.  hliirk 
lioiso  uf  inonslroiiH  hIivii;;,!,,  Iiaiilr.l  tlic  Imi,.c'  mLmh-h  <if  tlii>  fmimln. 
tinii  wuIIh.     AlM.ut    12   inil.M   fi„in  Q,,,.!,..,.  is  tho  .n.,„||,  „r  ,|„.  rV,,,,,. 
</i,Vr  AVm-.  llowhiK  ii«  from  ll.o  H<.iith.     Tliis  liv.-r  m.mm  a  wil.l  ,.<,.,,«„ 
(.f  nimiif    KM)  t„||,.H,  1111,1  ,.H  it  iKMUH  tlio  St.  I.uwivnc..  plniip.H  ,|.mii  ,, 
iinKuili.rnt    Tall  of   unMy   1«)0  ft.      Tl...  ciiliiiH.t  ih   f.M.io.iH   for  ifn 
pi.'ti.n.H<|.i.>  niiMMlonr.      it   wuh  l»y  wiiy  of  the  viil!..v  of  tl.c  ClmudUNi-H 
timt   Uom-dirt   Arnnl.l   Inl  liin  tro(.|>H  on  Hint  l...i<.ir  h.it  .lis,.- |..„ih  ex- 
ix-'lltion  (.f  his  from   New    Ki.jtIhiuI   to  giirl,,.,-.     Tiu.  sloiinl  hrij^.tH 
wlii.h  loom  on  ("itli.T  Inind  n«  wo  appi-oacl.  tin,.|.i«i'  will  l.o  (loscribcd 
in  HiihsiMpuMit  pnniKinpliH.     StoaminK  iM'twcoii  tlio  cliirs  of  I'oint  I6v\n 
nn.l  th..  guns  of  that  aiMhil  dtad,!  which  jr„afdH  tho  ^ato  uf  I'anada,  wo 
round  up  to  tho  wliaivos  of  (imdioc 


To  Quebec  by  the  South  Shore. 

In  poin-x  from  Mi.utroal  to  Q.iohoo  by  tho  (hand  Truidt,  the  trav. 
olor  is  oMrri...!  far  south  ..f  tho  St.  Lawronco,  and  throu-h  the  romantio 
and  rioldy  storiod  hindscaprs  alroady  drsorii.od  in  oonnoction  with  tho 
Uioholiou  Uiv.-r.     It  is  a  K.voly  journoy,  and  sh,)uld  ho  talvon  on  th(> 
day  oxpross.     Tho  or<..ssin-  of  tho  Vicfnria  liruhfr  is  liUo  tho  passago 
i)f  a  lot.«  tuniu'l,  and  oooupios  hctwoon   four  and'  tlvo  nuinitos.     From 
Montreal  to  /Mn„o,nf,  wIkvo  tho  Quoboo  Hranoli  divor^os  from  tho 
main  lino  running  throufrh   to    /'or//a>n/,  J/,.,  tho  way  is   thick   with 
thiiviii},'  fown.s,  and   fnnffnl  in  histo:io  momoiios.      Tiio  bu.'^y  little 
Fronoh  city  of  Sf.  Ihimhihv,  on  tlio  Yammka  Uivcv,  has  some  points 
of  intorost  for  tho  tourist,  atul  a  population  of  about  7,000.     It  has  a 
oollojjio,  two  oathodrals,  an.l  a  largo  manufaoturinj;  intorost  in  leather, 
woohMis,   and    maehiuery.      St.    IlUmn;   about  12  ndles  west  of  St' 
Ilyaointho,  has  excelloni  ll.uic-bn-s  and  piko  Hshin-  ia  June,  July, 
and  August.     At  HichmonK  i^tio  •  uit  as  a  junction  town,  and  for  tl'io 
ooppor-minos  in  its  vicinity,  ihore  is  a  villa-o  poptdalion  of  between 
1,000  Mu\  L',0(H».     A  few  miles  beyond  Kiehmond  is  the  growing  vi»a<ro 
of   D,u,nllc,  with  several  factories.     Avthalm.ka  village  is  of  impo"-- 
tauoo  chielly  as  the  starting  point  of  tho  branch  line  to  Douccrs  Land- 
in,,,  already  referred  to.     Near  Arthabaska  we  cross  tho  river  A7cW,7, 
named  for  Ohamplaiu's  brave  interpreter,  Jean  Niclot  the  peaeemakeri 


MONTttKAf,   To   QITinRO. 


81 


who  ,lw..|t  for  „l„«  y„H,.„  ,„„onK  flio  wizard  NipinHinRH.  A  llttio  l,..yo,„| 
A,tl,..b..Mkn  li..^  Hh.  vllla^..  „f  sta„fnld.  At  r,,.trr,  wlwr.  w«  ch.hh  tl... 
//m,».o«,.  /,>„,.,,  tlH.n,  iH  u  c(msi,|..rahN.  l,.,„l„Mi„K  iM,Hi,„.HH.  Tw-n^y 
miloH  fro,,,  A/,./,  in  a  Mtution  with  tiu,  .nuHi.-ul  ,uu,.o  r,f  .V.  ^„„;h7  ,/. 
/A««nmy..  At  Chaudihe  w.  ctohh  th.-  wild  rivrr  of  tl..  Ha„u.  nan., 
ahvad.v  r,.f..r,vd  .o  Nino  ..nl.H  fai-thor  o„  wo  Htop  at  the  Htati<,„  of 
/  mnt  lAivtH,  wIkuh'O  n  ft-riy  carrii-H  uh  over  to  Quebec. 

To  auebeo  by  the  North  Shore. 

The  tra!„H  of  the  (.'.  1'.  K.  run   bctw,.,-,.   Quoboc  and   Montreal 


along  thi'  north  shoio  (.f  the  .St.  Law 


Tl 


renc'c,  in  a  little  over  hIx  hourn. 


I''H  IS  a  rapid  and  liixuriouH  trip,  for  the  line  in  unrivaled  I 
ns;ement  and  npiipnient ;  but  in  the  way  (.f  land 
vari(>ty.     Lcavinj,'   Da/hounir  S(juun'  Stat 


Ihcholi 
Junction 


n  inun- 

Hfape  it  offer."  little 

'ion  we  pasH   the  Hf;iii(»iiH  of 


''V«,  Mile  End,  and  SanH  mix  IUcoIIvIh,  and  leaeh  St.  M, 


\: 


whenee  tlie  main  lino  of  the  0.  i'.  R.  swerves 


iif?  journey  ucro.sH  the  eontinent.     Paasinf,'  the  j 


'iiriiti'H 
off  for  its 

„    ,         ...  -"•' h  ""^  j'lnction,  we  (TOHs  the 

m..th  branch  of    the  Ottawa  Jtiver  at   Terrrboune,  whose   lin.oHtone 
<l"arr.eK  have  built  M<,ntreal.     bVo.n  Jolidte  Junction  the,-e  are  braneh 
lines  to  a  number  of  small  towns-Hueh  as  Jotiette,  St.  Fc'ij-  de  Vahis 
«.id  .SV.  (iabricl  de  lirandon.     F,.on,    Lanoraic  and  /iertkier  Junction. 
n.n  short  bmnoh  lines  to  villages  of  the  .same  na.nes  on  the  river-shore 
Herth.er  has  a  population  of  2,«0().     In  the  neighborhood  of  I^ui,vilie 
are  the  St.  Leon  Sprinffs,  already  referred  to.     All  these  stations  a,e  in 
a  level,  highly  eultivatcd  plain,  cut  up  into  the  long,  narrow  fields  that 
characterize  the  older  parts  of  Quebec.      This  curious   arran^^emcnt 
anscsfrom  the  French  custom  of  dividing  estates  equally  amon^  the 
owner  s  hei,-s,  and  giving  each  po,-tion  of  the  subdivided  farms  a  like 
nve,.-frontage.     Leaving  Louisville  the  train  runs  through  Yamachiche 
ana  (omt  du  Lac,  and  i-eaches  the  city  of  77<;w  liivcrn. 

The  St.  A/aurice  liiver,  third  in  rank  of  the  tributaries  of  the  St 
Lawrence,  rises  in  a  maze  of  lakes  and  streams  220  miles  to  the  north' 
In  the  same  wild  region  rise  the  Ottawa  and  the  Saguenay.  It  is  a 
region  v.s.ted  udyby  a  few  Indians  and  trappers,  Hudson  Bay  traders 
and  the  lumbermen  who.se  axes  ring  on  the  banks  of  every  stream' 
Civilization  has  as  yet  but  touched  the  skirts  of  this  wilderness.  From 
the^banks  of^the  St.  Lawrence  it  has  climbed  the  river  about  100 
m,  ^c  „^    „  J.  ,.  ..     p^j^j.jjj„  j^jjy  ^^  ^^^  Tumie.     Rntween  i 


Tuqi 


4J 

V|lf 


point 


82 


MONTREAL   TO   QUEBEC. 


and  the  "Piles,"  60  miles  farther  down,  the  St.  Maurice  runs  quietly 
and  13  traversed  by  a  small  steamer.     The  lower  St.  Maurice  is  a' 
successio.,  of  fall,  and  rapids,  which  are  avoided  by  a  railway  run- 
nmg  from  the  "Piles"  to  Piles^  Juuction  on  the  C.  P.  R.     Below  the 
"Piles  "the  land  lies  in  terraces  or  "benches."     Twenty-four  miles 
above  Three  Uivers  are  the  famous  Hhmmncnan  Falls,  remarkable  for 
their  beauty  and  grandeur  even  in  this  country  of  cataract.     The  In 
dian  name,  Shawenegan,  signifies  "  nee.Uowork,"  and  was  doubtle'^s 
suggested  by  the  beautiful  plp.y  of  colors  on  the  foaming  surface     Just 
above  the  falls  the  river  is  ,^plit  by  a  rocky  island.     The  right  branch 
descends  with  a  direct  plun.^e.     The  left,  roaring  around  the  obstacle 
meets  the  other  almost  at  right  angles.    Here  the  reunited  torrent  finds 
Its  way  blocked  by  a  rugged  point.     Hurled  back  upon  itself,  the  river 
falls  away  to  one  side,  and  sweeps  down  a  rocky  trough  into  the  swirl- 
ing  bosom  of  a  spacious  basin.     Into  this  same  basin  winds  peacefullv 
between  quiet  glades  of  elms  and   river  meadows,  the   Shaweneoan' 
River.    If  one  £vscends  this  stream  a  little  way,  which  may  be  done  very 
delightfully  in  a  canoe,  he  will  be  rewarded  by  a  sight  of  one  of  the 
loveliest  and  most  romantic  of  cascades,  the  Little  Shaicencgm  Falls 
Guides  to  the  fishing  and  shooting  of  the  St  Maurice  may  be  obtained 
at  Ihree  Rivers  and  other  places.    For  information  as  to  leased  waters 
for  permits,  etc.,  one  should  write  in  advance  to  Joseph  Reynar  Esq  ' 
Government  Superintendent  of  the  St.  Maurice  District.  ' 

Two  miles  bejund  Three  Rivers  our  train  passes  Piles  Junction 
already  referred  to.  Then  come  Champlain,  Bathcan,  Lachevrotikre 
and  ether  villages  whose  names  savor  of  old  France.  PoHneuf  is  a 
busy  httle  town,  devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  shoes  and  wood-pulo 
Seven  miles  frou.  Quebec  is  T^rette,  a  settlement  of  Christianized  Huron 
Indians,  founded  about  two  centuries  and  a  half  ago.  Beyond  Lorette 
we  pass  the  junction  of  the  Lake  St.  John  R.  R.,  the  gateway  to  that 
sportsman's  paradise  which  lies  about  the  head-waters  of  the  Saguenay 
Four  miles  farther,  and  our  train  stops  under  the  c'-del  of  Quebec. 

City  of  Quebec. 

n  i*"*®-!*'  etc.-The  Chdteau  Frontmac  ($3.50  to  $5  per  dav)  on 
Dufferin  Terrace ;  the  Florence  (|2.50  to  |4  per  dayj  in  St  John  S? 
the  St.  Louis  Hotel  (f2.50  to  $5  per  day),  in  St^LoufJstneai- Dufferin 

SweVTowl  ^        ^^^'"^^  ^^""^^^'^  ^*-'  «»nd  ^^anc/mVrf'*,  in  the 


QUEBEC, 
second  lino  run^.  alor.^  Ifll      S,  "  °.u''  f^'™''  '»  ">«  ™'>"*s.     A 

.««-*.,  rn^iy  bo"hwT.11 '  v'  -.ab,  ^ '„7:;;?h""-  .''r'"^'  °- 

the  bofols  and  markpf^  ''vtry  stables  and  on  the  cab-stands  near 
ratus,  ■»  the  la""  htfe,  and  SZti^XfllT  °"'=i5">"''  ""P"' 
nee,  the  city  „i,l,  Son.h'Q,,cbe?New  L  vlrpoo"    „°"|W  7'  ™"- 

r„To"Lnf  TT-  ^^"'■™°^'  -^  ™n  th'celcs       ay'^.^'tre 
1  le  oi  urieans.     An  elevator  runs  from  Chamnljiin  ^t    f«  n.  ap    ■ 
Terrace  in  the  summer  only  ^nampiam  tet.  to  Dufferin 

7%ea^re.— Academy  of  Music. 
Population  of  Quebec,  85,000. 

QUEBEC,  1757. 

Of  'or^i:IZt^^  ™!ro''^D*'2ttf ''°7^  The  0,„adian, 
Appleton  &  Co.)  Roberts,  and  published  by  D. 

An  eagle  city  on  her  heights  austere, 

Taker  of  tribute  from  the  chainlcs's  flood, 
She  watches  wave  above  her  in  the  clear 

The  whiteness  of  her  banner  purged  with  blood. 
Near  her  grim  citadel  the  blinding  sheen 
Of  her  cathedral  spire  triumphant  soars 
Rocked  by  the  Angelas,  whose  peal  serene' 
Beats  over  Beaupre  and  the  Levis  shores. 
Tossed  in  his  light  craft  on  the  dancing  wave 

A  stranger  where  he  once  victorious  trod 
The  passing  Iroquois,  fierce-eyed  and  grave 
Frowns  on  the  flag  of  France,  the  cross  of  God. 

Among  the  cities  of  the  New  World  the  grandest  for  situation  the 
mos  romantic  in  associations,  the  n.ost  distinctive  and  pieturerue  in 
detaU.,  i.  th  ,„el  eity  that  keeps  the  gates  of  the  S  .  La^ce 

No  hmg  could  be  more  impressive  than  the  view  of  Quebec  from  a 
Utle  distance  down  the  river,  unless  it  be  the  n.atchloss  ^nora    fto 
be  seen  from  the  parapets  of  BufTerin  Terrace,  within  the  citv.    Lo  kin! 

which  ,s  the  more  impressive  view.  When  one  is  ascendino-  the  St 
Lawrence  he  sees  on  his  right  the  milk-white  cataract  of  MontlZne^ 
descending  as  ,t  were  out  of  heaven  over  the  dark  face  of  the  moun t 
ams  that  skirt  the  north  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence.    On  the  leTthe 


U  II 


li 


H 


gUllBKO. 


winto  ^\\U^^^vH  of  hhuVOHmm,  with  (l.oir  f-r-Kliltoiing  fril,|,.,|  HpiroH 
noHllo  in  Ml,.  ,l,.op  f?,oon  of  liixiiHniit  ki-ovch.     In  fiont  iIhch  th«  m. 
HiiintinK  Htv,  ti,.|-  upon  lior  of  Htrcproof,..!  Iiouhoh  and  <pi.iin!,  piodpi- 
1..M1S  sfn>..ts,hmuJ(I.Kof  Kn«vrliir-rr,mt,«iul  UKain  M...  roofH  an<i  towm, 
HH.I  far  np,  on  Ih,.  Mnnniit,  of  M,,.  hfijri.f,  Ihr  kHm.  oviio  of  tl...  ancient 
oUadol.     An'OMs  fl...  faoo  of  tl.(.  p,.,»p|,.,l  sL-cp  run  inryularly  tlio  n.asH- 
ivo  linos  of  Mu'  olty  walls,  and  on  a  luitt.ral  (oimco  n.i.lnav  lu'twoiMi  the 
watt.r-front,  and  the  ,^/y,„A7  frown  tlu'  gutiH  of  tlio  (hond  liathn,.    Near 
l)v  is  (ho  piotnivs.pu.  (%U,au  Frontemv,  a  n...n„i(i,H«nt.  hotel,  niodtdod 
ou  t\w  plan  of  tlio  .sixfocnili  HMitury  Kivnoli  c/„Ur,n>.r.     Tli,«  fiourisldng 
HulMnh  of  N/.  /,•„,/<  sw(,.ps  otr  to  tl.o  ii-l,t  from  tin-  lower  slopes  of  the 
eape,  luid  dwindles  into  the  villaj^es  of  Vh,u-hsbo,mt  and  Imi-vUc.    A  lit- 
tie  lower  down  the  «pdet  ennvnt  of  the  St.  ChaHrs  winds  in  silver  curves 
thn.ujih  the  meadows  of  /,V„«;«„7.    On  the  hij,'h  shores  beyond  the  city 
are  (he  dark  lir-^n-ovesof  .s///,r//,  "  with  its  niernorh-s  of  missions  and  mas- 
saeres."    The  water-front  of  the  eity  is  thronged  with  ships  whose  masts 
and  funnels  ob.^eure  th(>  warehouses.    Ships  are  anehored  thiekly  in  mid- 
ehannel,  and  between  them  dodj^e  the  pidlli»g  tu{,'s  and  the  hifrh  two- 
deeker  ferries  making  their  hasty  way  to  the  lofty  and  huddling  "own  of 
iy,ut  Ltns,  whose  heif,dits  resound  all  day  to  the  shrieks  of  loeomotivcs. 
The  pieture  is  one  whose  sublime  lines  and  masses  are  brought  out  to 
the  full  by  the  fresh  eolorin-  that  plays  over  it.     Under  the  vivid  and 
flawless  blue  eo.ne  out  sharply  the  pale  j,May  of  the  citadel,  the  duller 
{.'ray  of  the  elltr-face  streaked  with  rust-eoior  and  splashed  with  lij^dit 
Sreen,  the  black  pins  bristlin-on  the  ramparts  and  batteries,  the  brown 
streets,  roofs  of  shininjj;  tin,  and  jjildcd  steeples,  with  here  and  there  a 
billow  of  thick  fidia-rc,  the  blue-jrreen  Hood  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  the 
white  and  emerald  of  the  tributary  farms  and  villages,  and  the  somber 
purple  setting  of  the  remote  surmunding  hills.     A  famous  American 
bishop  declares,  -Only  Heidelberg  in  (Jermany,  Stirling  an.l  Edinburgh 
in  Scotland,  and  Khrenbreitstcin  on  the  Khine,  can  contend  with  Quebec 
f*>r  grandeur  of  situation  and  the  noblest  l)eauty."     The  vast  promon- 
tory  whii-h  the  city  occupies  is  called  Cafu-  Diamomi,  from  the  innu- 
n)crablc  qmirtz  crystals  which  ont-e  glittered  over  its  surface. 

THK  HISTOKY  OF  (^UKBEC. 
The  site  of  Quebec,  when  visited  in   15ar>  by  Jaetiues  Cartier,  was 
oecupitHi  by  the  hulian  town  of  Stadaeona,  which  signifies  "  The'  nar- 
wwing  of  the  river."    Cartier  was  recrlvcd  by  the  indiaus  with  generous 


QUEBEC. 


85 


hospitality,  and  by  tholr  nid  continued  IiIh  explorations  up  the  river  to 
Hoi'hclaKa.  Mcforc  Htartinj,'  on  Iuh  n-turn  voyage  to  France  he  repaid 
their  kiiulneSH  by  Iddnappinj,'  their  head  chief  Donnacona,  with  several 
others  of  the  tribe,  to  take  home  as  tropliies  and  proofs  of  his  advent- 
ure. In  irsi  1  Oartier  came  again  with  five  ships,  but  found  no  friendly 
w»>lconie.  His  trcfaehery  was  not  to  be  forgotten  in  five  years.  He 
attempted  to  found  a  settlement  at  Cap  Rouge,  but  the  hostility  of 
the  Indians  lay  heavy  upon  him  and  the  effort  was  abandon<-d.  A  little 
later  the  attempt  was  repeated  by  the  Sieur  de  Koberval,  nicknam<;d 
by  Francis  I  "The  little  King  of  Vimieu."  This  was  in  1549.  The 
enterprise  of  De  Koberval,  which  came  to  a  disastrous  end  after  a  win- 
ter  of  tvMTible  sufl'erings  and  Strang.;  disease,  has  been  made  the  sub- 
ject of  a  pieture.s<pie  and  brilliant  historical  drama  by  the  Canadian 
poet  John  Hunter  Duvar.  With  the  remnants  of  his  little  colony  De 
Koberval  set  sail  for  France,  and  nothing  more  was  heard  of  him  there- 
after. It  is  supposed  that  the  auii)s  went  down  in  a  storm  off  the 
coast  of  Newfomulland, 

The  real  founding  of  Quebec  was  in  1608,  when  Champlain  estab- 
lished  a  post  at  the  foot  of  the  steep.     Stadacona  had  j)assed  away. 
Soon  a  tiny  village  stood  upon  its  site.     Champlain  was  a  practical 
colonizer,  and  he  succeeded  where  (hirtier  and  Roberval  had  failed. 
In  the  winter  came  the  scourge  of  that  strange  and  dreadful  disease,  the 
scurvy,  and  of  his  little  band  of  t>8  but  8  survivet'  to  greet  the  spring. 
In  the  following  year  Champlain  made  an  alliance  with  the  tribes  of 
the  Algonciuins  and  Hurons,  and  committed  New  France  to  a  hundred 
years  of  war  with  the  Five  Nations.     For  some  years  Quebec  was  but 
a  military  and  fur-trading  post,  but  Champlain's  purpose  was  to  found 
an  empire,  and  the  foundation  of  that,  he  well  knew,  must  be  laid  in 
farming.     He  brought  out  one  Louis  H  chert,  with  his  son-in-law  Couil- 
lard,  to  till  the  soil  of  New  France.     The  families  of  these  men  struck 
deep  root  into  the  virgin  soil,  and  now  their  descendants  are  to  be 
found  all  over  the  province.     Two  of  the  quaintest  and  most  mediajval- 
looking  of  the  streets  of  Quebec  are  Hehert  and   Couillard  Sts.,  which 
are  said  to  run  where  ran  the  first  furrows  plowed  in  Canada.     They 
are  straighter  than  those  old  streets  in  Boston  which  follow  the  devi- 
ous  paths  worn  by  the  cows  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers.     JIad  the  farmers 
come  to  Quebec  in  as  great  numbers  as  did  the  R6collets  and  Jes- 
uits, and  with  half  the  zeal  and  en-rgy  of  these  latter,  New  France 
would  have  grown  as  rapidly  as  Nc.  England.     As  it  was,  however, 


86 


QUKBEC. 


its  prowth  was  ooinpnifttivol.v  sU.w,  and  the  policy  of  tho  grcRt  fur- 
trndiiip  company  wl.icl.  oontrollo.)  it  for  a  long  while  checked  its  devel- 
opment.     In   1«2J>  the  infant  stronghold  was  captured  l.y  Hir  David 
Kirko;  but  it  wn..  restored  to  France  by  the  Treaty  of  St.  Germain-en- 
Laye,  and  dian.plain  again  became  its  Oovcrnor.    In  IC.IJB  the  "  Father 
of  Canada"  died,  and,  strange  to  say,  we  know  not  his  exact  resting. 
place,  for  the  reei.rds  of  Quebec  were  burned  in  the  great  fire  of  1640 
It  IS  ono.igh  to  know  that  he  lies  sou.ewhere  within  the  city    and 
guebec  is  his  ali-suMicient  m(mun.ent.     Quebec  may  be  said  to  have 
boen   born  under   the  auspices  of  two  strangely  incongruous  powers 
-rehgion  ami  the  fur-tra,le-and  the   forn.er.   fortunately,  got  the 
best  of  ,t  in  the  long  run.     It  moved  rich   and  devoted  women  to 
found  such  institutions  in  the  new  colony  as  the  116tel  Dim  and  the 
Urmlmv  Couvent     The  former  was  established  bv  the  Duchess  d'Ai- 
gtMlloM,  with  the  help  of  the  Hospital  Nuns  of  Dieppe;  the  latter  by  a 
mh  and  beautiful  young  widow,  Madame  de  la  Peltrie,  who  devoted 
her  fortune  and  her  life  to  the  welfare  of  New  France.     To  this  day 
Quebec  is  f,dl  of  churches,  ecclesiastical  establishments,  and  institu- 
t.ons  of  charity.     In  Um  the  whole  population  of  New  France  was  not 
above  2,(K)0,  scattere.1  thinly  along  the  river  from  the  Saguenay  to 
Montreal.     Of  these  Quebec  contained  800.     Then  came  better  days- 
and  Louis  \IV,  tlcstroying  the  monopoly  of  the  fur  company,  took  the' 
colony  iin.ler  his   own   control.     Immigration   was  energetiealiv   pro- 
moted,  and  under  the  management  of  the  wise  Intendant,  Talon,  Quebec 
mse  into  a  commercial  importance  which  it  took  his  incompetent  and 
unscrupulous  successors  a  long  while  to  destroy.     After  Talon's  time 
New  *u.nce  was  ruled  by  several  excellent  governors,  chief  of  whom 
was  the  great  Frontenac;  but  the  business  management  of  the  colo' y 
was  m  the  hands  of  the  intcndants  and  abominably  conducted      In 
October,  \m\  came  Sir  William  Phips  with  an  English  fleet,  and 
anchoring  off  Isle  d'Orloans,  demanded  the  capitulation  of  the  city' 
\  cry  short  war.  the  answer  of  the  fiery  ol<l  Governor,  Frontenac,  and 
emphatic  was  his  repulse  of  the  hostile  squadron ;  but  New  France  was 
ever  a  thorn  in  the  side  of  the  Knglish-speaking  colonies  along  the 
Atlanta,  seaboard,  and  the  citadel  on  t'ape  Diamond  was  a  wasp's  nest 
by  whose  stings  they  were  goaded  all  too  frequently.     Not  unnatural 
was  their  demaml  for  its  destruction,  and  in  1711  the  task  was  a-aia 
undertaken,  this  time  by  Admiral  Sir  Hoveden  Walker.     His   fl^eet 
however  was  shattered  by  a  storm  In  the  Cuif  of  St.  Lawrence ;  and  fo^ 


grcRt  fiir- 
<1  its  dt'vcl- 

Hii"  David 
tormain-en- 
le  "  Fatlier 
ct  restinp;- 
e  of  1640, 
!  city,  atid 
id  to  have 
us  powers 
^  got  the 
woiKion  to 
u  and  tlie 
liess  d'Ai- 
itter  by  a 

0  devoted 

1  this  day 
(I  instltu- 
!e  was  not 
juenay  to 
ter  days; 

took  tlie 
aliy  pro- 
n,  Quebec 
!tent  and 
m's  time 
of  whom 
e  colo*  y 
-*ted.     In 
ect,  and, 
the  city, 
nac,  and 
iince  was 
long  the 
p's  nest, 
nnatural 
IS  again 
is  fleet, 

and  for 


m 


I  ^ 


o- 


I  i:      i 


QUEBEC. 


sr 


these  two  deliverances  the  parish  church  in  the  Lower  Town  was  dcdi- 
cated  to  Notre  Dame  dcs  Vidoircs.     During  the  Seven  Years'  War  be- 
tween   France   and   Enghind,  Quebec  was   finally  captured,  and   the 
leopards  of  p]ngland  supplanted  the  lilies  of  France.     This  took  place 
in  1759.     The  splendid  victory  of  General  Wolfe  against  heavy  odds 
has  been  brilliantly  narrated  by  Ppakman.     On  the  26th  of  June  came 
a  fleet  under  Admiral  Saunders,  with  transports  carrying  Wolfe  and 
the  English  army.     The  fleet  anchored  off  Me  d' Orleans,  which  at  that 
time  retained  the  name  given  it  by  Cartier,  Isle  de  Bacchus.     The 
French  army,  of  about    13,000  men,  under   command  of  the    illus- 
trious Montcalm,  was  occupying  the  Beauport  shore.     General  Monc- 
ton  took  possession  of  the  Levis  HeightK  and  bombarded  the  city. 
On  the  31st  of  July  Wolfe  effected  a  landing  near  the  Montmorency 
River  and  attacked  the  French  lines.     He  was  defeated  with  severe 
loss.     Then  followed  a  long  and  weary  delay  caused  by  Wolfe's  illness, 
and  not  until  September  could  the  attack  be  renewed.     Under  cover 
of  night  the  English  forces  stole  up  river,  under  the  guns  of  the  cita- 
del.    At  dawn  of  September  13th  a  landing  was  gained  at  a  place  now 
called  Woljeh  Cove,  below  Sillerfj.     The  heights  above  appeared  inac- 
cessi'yle,  but  they  were  scaled  successfully,  Wolfe's  Highlanders  lead- 
ing the  way.    A  small  French  guard  on  the  summit  was  promptly  over- 
come,  and  by  the  time  it  was  clear  day  the  British  line  of  battle  was 
formed  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham.     Montcalm  was  outgeneraled.     He 
was  still  in  camp  at  Beauport,  on  the  scene  of  his  victory,  awaiting 
another  attack.    In  hot  haste  he  threw  his  forces  across  the  St.  Charles, 
and  by  10  o'clock  the  armies  were  engaged.     The  battle  was  short. 
Wolfe  fell  mortally  wounded,  on  the  spot  now  marked  by  Wolfe's 
monument ;  and  almost  at  the  same  moment  the  French  lines  broke, 
and  Montcalm,  who  had  received  his  death-wound,  was  carried  by  the 
fugitives  into  the  city,  where  he  died  and  was  buried  in  the  Ursuline 
Convent.     The  French  army  drew  off  to  Cap  Rouge,  and  on  the  18th 
Quebec  was  surrendered  to  the  English.     In  October  the  fleet  sailed 
for  England,  and  General  Murray  was  left  in  the  city  as  governor,  with 
a  garrison  about  6,000  strong.    Now,  under  the  very  walls  of  the  citadel, 
just  back  of  the  Dufferin  Terrace,  stands  a  monument  in  joint  commem- 
oration of  the  opposing  generals  who  fell  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham. 

"  Montcalm  and  Wolfe  !  Wolfe  and  Montcalm  1 
Quebec,  tby  storied  citadel 
Attest  in  burning  song  and  psalm 
How  here  thy  heroes  fell !  " 


tti< 


88 


QUKBEO. 


In  the  following.  Hpring  the  besiegers  beca.ne  the  bcsi.ged.     The 
French  general  Do  L6vis,  with  an  army  of  about  10,000  men,  defeated 
Murray  on  ti.e  i>.ains  of  Abrahan. ;  and'the  Kngli.i.  were  nhut  u  . t 
»..."  the  forfhcat.ons  till  relief  can.e  in  the  shape  of  an  English  fleet 
on  the  ,5th  of  May.     De  L6vi.s  withdrew ;  and  soon  afterwa .'  lad 

oeame  an  Knghsh  colony.  In  11,,,  during  the  An.eriean  Kevolutr 
U.neralHcn.lK.t  Arnold,  with  a  snuUl  anny,  made  his  fan,ous  .nareh 
by  th  C/urudurc  Valley,  scaled  the  heights  at  Wolfe's  Cove,  and  la  d 
Hu^c  to  the  c.ty.  Two  weehs  later  General  Montgon.ery  arri'ved.  „ 
the  Ust  o  Deccunber  the  An.erican  forces  advanced  to  the  assault,  but 
Here  repulsed  with  heavy  loss.  The  brave  Montgon.ery  fell  before  a 
barncade  on  Cha,..plain  St.  The  house  on  Si.  Luis  Si.  to  which  his 
body  was  taken  ,s  now  an  Indian  curiosity-shop,  and  one  of  the  points 
o^^^uuercst  of  the  e.ty.  Montgon.ry  was  buried  at  the  foot  of  S^/ 
niii,  but  the  body  was  afterward  removed  to  New  York. 

J  POINTS  OF  INTEREST. 

Quebec  is  often  called  the  Gibraltar  of  America.     The  base  of  the 
citadel  is  33.S  feet  above  the  water     Tf«  f^n^ifi    *• 

m,  .  """'"^me  waiei.  Its  fortihcations  cover  about  40 
acres.  The  city  ,s  divided  into  the  Upper  and  Lomr  Town,  which  are 
connected  by  an  elevator  ascending  the  face  of  the  cliff,  and  by  a  steep 
wmdmg  street  called  C6te  de  la  Montagne.  The  cliff  kce  is  in  places' 
insecure,  and  not  long  since  an  immen.=e  mass  of  rock  fell  awav,  over! 
whclmmg  a  portion  of  the  street  below.  Many  persons  perished  in 
tins  catastrophe;  and  now,  though  cosUy  engineering  operations  have 
been  imdertaken  to  reinforce  the  cliff,  wayfarers  who  pass  alon. 
Champlam  St.  do  so  in  fear  and  tre.abling.     Mc  .^'ness  is 

HI  the  Lower  Town,  by  the  water-side.     The  Upper  T<     ,  -.       :thin  the 

o.ty  walls  and  beyond  them  to  the  Plain,  of  Abraham. Tri  '! 

also  the  suburbs  of  St.  Louis  and  St.  John:  The  walls  rt  .  ,  esV  from 
the  citadel  to  the  heights  overhanging  the  St.  Charles,  and  thence 
around  the  face  of  the  promontory  till  they  rejoin  the  cliffs  of  CaZ 
Durmond  near  the  Governor's  garden,  a  circuit  of  nearly  3  miles 
Some  years  ago  the  old  city  gates,  five  in  number,  were  removed,  bui 
three  new  ones,  far  more  substantial  and  ornamental,  have  replaced 
them.  These  are  St.  Louis  Gate  and  St.  John^s  Gate,  and  theVi' 
Gate  m  St.  PatHck's  St. 

"The  point  to  which  the  attention  of  the  stranger  in  Quebec  is 
first  directed  is  D^cfferin  Terrace,  which  lies  along  the  Lo  of  the  cliff' 


QUEBEC. 


89 


toworing  200  feet  above  the  river,  and  overlooking  the  Lower  Town. 
Tart  of  it  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  OhAteau  of  St.  Louis,  built  by 
Champliiin  in   1620,  and  destroyed  by  fire  in  18;J4      Duffeiin  Terrace, 
which  was  opened  to  the  public  in  June,  1879,  by  the  Marquis  of  Lome 
,  and  Princess  Louise,  is  an  unequaled  promenade  over  ^  mile  long. 
The  outlook  frou)  the  Terrace  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  is 
of  itself  worth  a  tiip  to  Quebec.     The  Ks/danade,  near  the  St.  Louis 
Gate,  is  another  attractive  promenade,  and  the  walk  along  the  Ranjparts 
between  the  St.  Louis  Gate  and  St.  John's  Gate,  affords  prospects 
rivaled  by  few  in   America.     The  view  from  the  Grand  Buftery,  near 
the  Ixtvnl  UniwrHH;/,  is  considered  by  many  to  be  finer  even  than  that 
from  Dufferin  Terrace ;  and  that  from  the  vast  balcony  of  the  Univer- 
sity  building  is  still  more  impressive.     The  new  holcl,  ChAtenu  Fron- 
(mac,  must  be  counted  one  of  the  sights  of  Quebec.    The  Place  d' Amies, 
or  Parade-ground,  is  a  pretty  little  park  adorned  with  a  fine  fountain, 
lying  between  Dufferin  Terrace  and  the  Anglican  Cathedral,  which  is  a 
plain  gray-stone  edifice  surmounted  by  a  tall  spire,  standing  in  St.  Ann 
St.  on  the  site  to  which  tradition  points  as  the  spot  where  Champlain 
erected  his  first  tent.     Adjoining  the  cathedral  is  the  rectory,  and  the 
pretty  little  Chape'  of  AH  Saints.     Des  Carrieres  St.,  running  south 
from  the  Place  d'Armes,  leads  to  the  Govamor's  Garden,  containinir  an 
obelisk  65  feet  high,  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm.     Des  Car- 
rieres  St.  also  leads  to  the  inner  fflacis  of  the  Citadel,  a  powerful  fortifica- 
tion,  covering  40  acres  of  ground,  on  the  summit  of  Cape  Diamond."  * 
The  old  Market  Square,  on  which  has  recently  been  erected  a  beau- 
tiful bronze  fountain,  is  in  the  center  of  the  Upper  Town,  surrounded 
by  more  or  less  striking  buildings.     On  the  E.  side  is  the  Basilica  of 
Quebec  (formerly  the  Cathedral),  a  spacious  cut-stone  building,  216  ft. 
long  and  180  ft.  wide,  and  capable  of  seating  4,000  persons.      The 
extct'or  of  the  edifice  is  very  plain,  but  the  interior  is  richly  decorated, 
and   CO  tains   several  original  paintings  of  great  value  by  Vandyke, 
Caracci,  Lallo,  and  others.     Adjoining  the  Basilica  on  the  N.  are  the 
quaint  buildings  of  the  Seminary  of  Quebec,  founded  in   1663 
by  M.  de  Laval,  first  Bishop  of  Quebec.     The  Seminary  Chapel  was 
destroyed  by  tire  in  1887,  but  it  is  now  being  rebuilt.     All  the  rare 
and  priceless  works  of  art  were  burned.     The  Laval  University, 
founded  in  1852,  occupies  three  very  imposing  buildings.     They  are 


"M 


*  Appletons'  General  Guide  to  U.  S.  A.  and  Canada. 


1 


on 


QlTICllKC. 


of  cut  HUmv,  ft7H  ft.  loiif?  (the  main  hulldiiiK  •»'•»•«  'i««»  ft.),  tivo  storloB 
liigh,  nnd  coHtinK  #2  J(),(K»().  Tlu»  choiiiioiil  liUxn'iitofy  \x  Hpiu-ioiiH,  tlro- 
pronf,  luiil  pn»vi(ltd  witli  o«)nipIotr  nppariitus ;  tlu'  poolo^^inil,  inlnor. 
iilojrioiil,  and  Itnliiniciil  <'(»lIt'i'lions  arc  very  valiiuhlo;  the  niusi>uni  of 
zoidofry  t'i>ntiiin«  npwiifd  of  I.JWK)  diircirnt  l)irdH  and  7,0(>(>  inscct.s  ; 
and  tlio  inus*>inn«>f  tlio  nirdical  dcpailnunt  is  I'spoi-ially  nmiplctf.  TI>o 
l-il>rary  numlxMH  ncaily  »r>,()0(>  vohunos,  and  tlio  IMoturo  (ialli'iy  (always 
upon  (n  tho  ptddio)  Ih  om  of  tlu«  i'iclu«8f  in  Canada,  and  oontalns  nniny 
important  woiks  <»f  art.  On  tli»<  \V .  Hido  of  MaiUct  S(pian>  is  Mio  uito 
<»f  tln>  old  .frsni/n'  Colic,,-'  huildin{;s.  Mon-in  (h/lafc  occiipicH  tlic  <dd 
stoni<  prison  at  tlio  oi»r.  of  St.  Ann  and  Stanislas  Sts.  In  tltis  building 
ftn>  tho  library  (II, ftOO  volinui's)  and  nmscun:  of  tin-  Quclu'c  liitcrary 
and  Historioal  Socioty,  wiili  its  ridi  oolKu'tion  of  MSS.  rclatinj,'  to  tho 
oarly  history  of  tho  country.  Tho  Hiiih  Scliool  on  the  Cape  has  200 
students,  an  excellent  lil)rary,  and  a  small  natural  history  collection. 

In  Donnacounu  St.,  olf  (Jarden,  is  the  llrMuliiio  Convent,  a  series 
of  buildings  surrounded  by  beautiful  grounds.  It  was  founded  in  KJHl), 
and  now  has  10  nutis,  who  arc  devoted  to  teaching  girls,  and  also  to 
painting,  needlework,  etc.  The  parlor  and  chapel  are  open  to  visitors, 
anti  in  tho  latter  are  rare  carvings  on  ivory  and  some  tine  paintings  by 
Vandyke,  Champagne,  and  others.  The  remains  of  the  Manjuis  de  Mont- 
calm are  biuicd  here  in  an  cxcavati  )n  nuido  by  the  bursting  of  a  shell 
within  the  precincts  of  tho  c<»nvent.  His  sk\ill  is  preserved  in  the  par- 
lor of  tho  chaplain.  Tho  <;>ri/  Xumirn/  is  a  spacious  building  on  the 
glacis  W,  of  the  ramparts,  and  contains  about  75  Sisters.  The  Chaju'l 
adjtuning  tho  nunnery  is  a  lofty  and  ornate  (Jothic  oditice,  with  a  rich 
interior.  Near  by  (in  St.  John  St.  near  St.  Clair)  tho  new  Roman  Catho- 
lie  church  of  St.  John  rephu'cs  the  largo  structure  destroyed  bv  fire  a 
few  years  ago.  The  llOtel  Dien,  with  its  convent  and  hospital,  stands 
on  Palace  St.,  near  the  rampart,  and  in  1875  coniprised  46  Sisters  of  tho 
Sacred  Hlood  of  I)ic[)pe,  who  minister  gratuitously  to  10,000  patients 
yearly.  In  the  Convent  Chapel  are  some  valuable  paintings.  The 
fil<i<'k  Xunmn/  is  in  tho  suburbs  of  St.  Roch's.  Application  to  the 
Lady  Superiors  will  usually  secure  admittance  to  the  nunneries, 

Tho  Pasl-Ojficeis  a  handsome  stone  edilico  at  the  corner  of  Buade 
and  Du  Fort  Sts,  On  its  face  is  the  historic  ettigy  of  "  the  Golden  Dog," 
I^  ("/lien  ,i'0)\  with  its  menacing  inscription — "Jo  suis  nn  chien  qni 
n>nge  I'os,"  etc.  (I  am  a  dog  that  gnaws  the  bone),  commemorating  a 
bitter  foud  between  the  infamous  Higot  and  the  merchant  Philibert 


QUEBKO. 


n 


and  Mio  lonR-'lclayod  vonfrcnnc^  of  tlie  Itittcr.    The  tak*  has  been  atnpli- 
fi»'(l  in  Mr.  Kirhy's  loinancc  of  "  Iv  Cliion  d'Oi."     IninnMliatoly  oppo.site 
Ih  tlio  (^hini  il'Or  h'rsftinnmf,  faniouH  for  the  drciiinHtanfe  that  tlio  nicco 
of  ItH  HrHt  proprietor  oaptivntcd  the  fancy  of  NclHon,  then  captain  of 
the  All>cniarlc,  whose  attcnipled  eloiHMucnt  with  the  "maid  of  tho 
inn"  was  frustrated   l)y  a  friendly  (inebec  nicrcliant.      The  incident 
is,  perliaps,  tlic  foiindiition  of  that  roiif^li  Hailor.son;j;  eaUed  "Shan- 
no(h)r."     Neiir  by  is   the  CardiunrH  PaUtce,  u  stately  iind   Ijandsoino 
stnictnrc.     Other  noteworthy   buildin^rs  in  tho  Upper  Town  are  tho 
City  Mall,  tin;  Qiiel»ec  Aca(h'niy  of  Music,  tho  Masonic  Hall,  and  tho 
(Jarrison  (lab,  in  St.  Louis  St.     On  (Jrando  Alloc  are  Hituutcd  the 
Skaliii^'.Hiid{,  the  hirWmirnt  and  hrftnrtmvufid  liiuldhipii,  which  wore 
ben;un  in  1H7H,  iind  the  Armory  and   Kxhibition  Ibuldinj,',  a  beautiful 
structure.     Tlic  new  (;\)int-l louse,  finished  in  18HH,  is  on  the  corner  of 
St.  Louis  St.  and  I'lacc  d'Arnuvs.     Among  noteworthy  churches  are  tho 
Metliodist  (.'hnrch  in  St.  Stanislas  St.,  a  Hne  spocimon  of  tho  flamboy- 
ant  (Jothie  style;  St.  Matthew's  (Episcopal),  in  St.  John  St.;  St.  An- 
drcw's  (Presbyterian),  at  tho  intersection  of  St.  Aim  and  St.  Stanislas 
Sts.,  a  spacious  stone  structure  in  the  (Jothic  stylo;  (Chalmers  (Pres- 
byterian), in  St.  Ursule  St. ;  St.  Patrick's  (Roman  Catholic),  in  McMa- 
hon  St.,  and  St.  Sauvcur  and  St.  Roch's,  in  tho  subiu-bs.    The  fine 
and  spacious  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Hall  ia  in  St.  John  St.,  just  without  St.  John's 
(»ate.     There  are  a  pood  library,  lecture-room,  and  reading-rooms,  etc., 
opposite  to  w  liicli  is  the  Montcalm  Market  Square  and  Hall.     The  Jnsti 
tut  (^anadien  is  in  Fnbri(pio  St.,  and  in  Ann  St.  is  situated  the  Wom- 
an's Christian  Associati(m. 

Just  N.  of  Dutferin  Terrace  is  tho  head  of  Mountain  Hill  St.,  which 
descends  to  the  Lower  Town.  To  tho  right  is  a  picturesfiue  stairway, 
called  the  Chainplahi  Steps,  or  Cote  dc  In  Moniacjnc,  which  leads 
down  to  the  church  of  Notre-Damo  dcs  Victoires,  erected  in  161)0  on 
the  site  of  Champlain's  residence.  S.  of  tho  church  is  the  Champlain 
Market,  a  spacious  structure  on  tho  river-bank,  near  the  landing  of  the 
river  steamers.  St.  Peter  St.,  running  N.  between  the  cliflf  and  the 
river,  is  the  main  business  thoroughfare  of  this  quarter,  and  contains 
the  great  connnercial  establishments,  banking-houses,  wholesale  stores, 
etc.  St.  Paul  St.  stretches  VV.  on  tho  narrow  strand  between  the  cliff 
and  the  St.  Charles,  amid  breweries  and  manufactories,  till  it  meets, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Charles,  St.  Joseph  St.,  the  main  artery  of 
the  huge  suburb  of  St.  Koch's.     On  tho  banks  of  tlie  St.  Charles  are  the 


i  ' 


■i  ,i 


I'l: 


si 


02 


QUKflMO. 


principal  nliip  ymd^,  onw  ho  tlnlviriK;  niul  tho  niitiioroiiH  i-ovoh  of  tho 
St.  Lhwiviu-o,  from  Cliuiuplaiu  St.  to  Cap  lloiigi.,  uiv  tilled   with  am-H 
of  viiHt  lumlu.i-rafJs.     On  tlio  opposite  shore  of  the  St.  [.awronce  are 
the  popiiloiiH  towns  of  South  Qu,t„v,  AV«.  Uv,rf^,of,  luul  Point  t^n, 
whi«'h  present  a  seene  of  aelivit.v  searcel.v  surpassed   l.y  the  eity  Itself! 
The  <')uslo,„-lloi,Hf  is  reaeheil  from  St.  IVter  St.  by  I.eadeahall  St.,  and 
ooeupies  the  vory  apex  ui  the  point  made  l.y  the  eonlhienee  of  the  St. 
I.Hwreniv  and  the  St.  Charles  Kivers.     It  is  an  ImposiuK  Dorie  edifice, 
with  a  dome,  and  a  favutle  of  n(d)Ie  eohimns,  approaehed  hy  a  lon<,'  Hinht 
of  steps.     The  Marine  and  KnuKi ants'  Hospital,  hnilt  ,m  the  modefof 
the  Temple  of  the  Muses,  on  the  hanks  of  the   llissns,  is  near  the  St. 
Charles  lliver,  nml  half  a  nule  farther  up  the  river  is  the  (Jeiieral   Jlos- 
pital.     This  institution  was  founded  in  lOiHJ,  and  is  under  the  ehargo 
of  the  mms  of  St.  Augustine.     Overlookinp  St.  Uoeh's  Huhurbs  is  tho 
Ji'lVery  Hale  Hospital.     The  Finlay  .Vsylum  is  on  .^t.  Koye  road. 

The  suburbs  of  St.  Louis  and  St.  .John  streteh  S.  and  W.  alonj,'  tho 
plateau  ^^'  the  I'l.per  Town,  and  are  constantly  encroachin;r  on  the  hia- 
torie  riium  of  Afnnhnm.     They  contain  numy  handsome  private  resi- 
dcnce.^  and  several  Iar}j;e  conventual  establishments  and  churches.  The 
best  approach  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham  is  by  (/nnnl,A/i,'r,  which  com- 
mences  at  the  St.  I.ouis  (iate  and  the  Martello  Towers,  four  circular  stone 
structures  erected  in   I807-'12  to  .lefend  the  approaches  to  the  city. 
t)n  the  spot  where  Wolfe  fell  in  the  men>orable  battle  of  Scptend.er  18, 
17M>,  stands    ll'(>//V\v  Moiiumnif,  n  modest  column  appropriately  in- 
scribed.     A  short  distance  to  the  left  is  the  path  by  which  his  army 
.scaled  the  clilTs  on  the  nif,'ht  before  the  battle;  it  is  somewhat  .shorn 
of  its  ruirjied  character,  but  is  still  precipitous  and  forbiddiii};.     On  the 
IMains,  near  the  Ste.  Koye  road,  stands  the  monument  connnemorating 
the  victory  won  by  the  (Mievalier  do  Levis  over  (Jeneral   Muiiay  in 
17f.O.     It  is  a  handsome  iron  colunni,  surmounted  by  a  bronze  statue 
of  Hellona  (presented  by  Trince  Xapoleon),  and  was  erected  in   1854. 
About  ;{  nules  out  on  the  St.  Louis  road  are  Afomif  lln-mon  Ccmc/en/, 
82  acres  in  extent,  beautifully  laid  out  on  irrejjular   «:round,  sloping 
down  to  the  precipices  which  overhang  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  St.  Pat- 
rick's  (H.C.)  Cemetery. 

In  its  surroimdings  Quebec  is  more  fortunate  than  any  city  in  Can- 
ada. In  whatever  direction  one  tiuns,  some  point  of  interest  will 
appear.  The  great  island  below  the  city,  already  mentioned  as  Isle 
d'Orleaus,  is  rich  with  history  and  romance,  and  is  a  favorite  sum. 


QtTKBFJO. 


88 


mer  resort  for  tho  citlzoii«  of  quvhvv.  It  wftH  cillod  /«/^  7.  //„rf/i».«  by 
(Jiirti...-,  and  .l//,,,y„  hy  thr  I,„li,  :;s.  Hy  tlu-  MU|KMHtHiouH  hatntnulH  it 
Ih  Hlill  call<-<l  tMff,/<»  Sorrow.'^,  mui  i.s  piously  bdicvnl  to  b,.  tbc  favored 
roHort  of  ovory  hbi<l  of  hobgoblin.  This  supcrsfi,!.,,,,  hovvTvor,  has  not 
Ininlorod  tho  fruitful  isiaud  from  Uvaumun  tlio  m-at  <,f  many  Hourisliinir 
villagCH,  such  as  ,sy.  I'hrn;  Si.Jmn,  St.  hmvmt,  St.  Firivl,  St.  Fmnfoin. 
Tho  i;dand  is  n-aciiod  by  a  forry-stoainer  from  (Quebec. 

Tho  FallN  of  MuiBtiiiorency. 

Krom  Quoboc  to  tlio  FhIIn  of  Montmorency.  1)  miics  b,.|„w  U 
a  doli^'htful  driv.,  ovor  tho  li.nni.>rl  i„m<lo,v,  nxuX  through  an  abnoHt 
contu.uons  street  of  cottages  an.l  farm-liousoH.    Tho  tourist  wlio  i.rofors 
to  mal<c  tho  trip  more  speedily  and  loss  expensively  may  go  by  tho 
Queboo,  Mcmtmoreney  an.l  Charlovoi  |{.  R.,  which  runs  20  miles  (h.wn 
tho  St.   Lawrence  shore  to  the  famous  shrini!  at   .SV.    Anur,   whither 
the  pilgrin.H  flock  by  thousands  every  season.     Fare  to  Montmorency 
20e.;  return,  ;mc.    To  St.  Anno,  fiOc. ;  return,  8Bc.    "  Tho  Montn.oroncy 
Falls,"  says  Mr.  I,e  .Moine,  in  his  channing  Tourist's  Note-Hook   "are 
still  known  to  old   Krench  peasants  as  Z«  I V/*.  (the  ("ow)  on  account 
of  tho  resond)ianc<.  of  their  foandn-  waters  to  milk,  though  others  have 
attributed  the  name  to  the  noise,  like  the  bellowing  of  a  cow,  which  i.s 
made  by  the  roaring  torrent  d.ning  the  prevalence  of  certain  winds 
They  present,  when  swollen  by  spring  floods  or  by  autumnal  rains  a 
most  imposing  spectacle.    The  volume  of  water,  though  nmoh  less  than 
that  of  Niagara,  falls  froiM  ...  much  greater  height— viz.,  27fi  ft.     Heau- 
port's  wondrous  cataract  may  be  seen  under  various  attractive  a.'^pects. 
...  I  also  remember,  on  a  bright,  starry  night  amid  winter,  coutem- 
platmg  in  dreamy-rapt  silence  a  novel  spectacle,  seldom  vouchsafed  to 
guebecers.     The  snowy  ec.ne  at  the  foot  of  the  cataract  had   been 
scooped  out  by  an  enterprising  city  restnuratntr,  to  represent  a  vast 
glittering  palace,  provi.led  with  icy  couches,  scats,  etc.-a  cold   bright 
but  fitting  throne  for  the  Fn.st  King,  illumined    by  Chinese    lamps 
reminding  one  of  Cowpcr's  glowing  description  of  Imperial  Oatharine\s 
Russian  ice-palace  of  1787: 

'  a  scene 
Of  evanescent  glory,  onoo  a  stream. 
And  soon  to  glide  into  a  stream  again.'  " 

The  Falls  should  be  viewed  both  from  above  and  from  below     To 
see  them  well  from  above  one  must  cross  the  Montnm'cncy  Bridye,  trav- 


fv 


.11 


m 


94 


QUEBEC. 


erae  a  field,  nnd  doscend  an  intenninablo  stairway  to  a  platform  which 
thrusts  itsflf  out  ovor  the  very  lace  of  the  cataract.     The  view  from 
this  point  is  most  elfeetive.    To  see  the  Falls  from  below  one  must  pass 
through  a  property  formerly  occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Kent,  and  descend 
the  precipitous  path  called  Z,(;fzaff  Hill.    From  the  foot  of  the  hill  we 
move  along  the  beach  till  suddenly  we  find  ourselves  in  the  midst  of 
the  spray  and  tumult  of  the  Fall,  and  a  gorgeous  rainbow,  so  close  that 
we  can  almost  touch  it,  is  flashing  in  our  eyes.     The  volume  of  water 
flowing  away  from  the  foot  of  the  Fall  seems  much  less  than  that  of 
the  river  before  it  has  taken  the  plunge.     There  is  a  belief  current  in 
the  neighborhood  to  the  effect  that  most  of  the  river  passes  by  an 
nnderground  channel  beneath  the  bed  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  rises 
near  the  foot  of  Isle  d'Orleans.     At  this  point  there  is  a  bit  of  angry 
water  known  as  Le  Tanreau,  which  is  considered  very  dangerous,  and 
is  popularly  supposed  to  be  the  Montmorency  escaping  from  its  sub- 
terranean prison.     On  the  banks  of  the  Montmorency,^above  the  crest 
of  the  Fall,  stand  the  renniants  of  a  suspension  bridge.     About  forty 
years  ago  this  structure  fell  into  the  abyss,  carrying  with  it  an  unfortu- 
nate  hahitiuit  and  his  family  who  were  driving  over  it  at  the  time.    The 
tourist  must  not  fail  to  visit,  while  at  Montmorency,  the  famous  Nahmil 
Steps,  about  a  nule  and  a  half  above  the  bridge,  where  the  river  rushes 
madly  over  a  series  of  cascades,  each  three  or  four  yards  in  depth.    On 
each  side  rises  a  perpendicular  wall  of  somber  -liff  whose  summits  are 
fringed  with  pine-trees.     Here  and  there  beside  the  ledges  are  green 
and  ferny  nooks,  the   delight  of   retiring  picnickers.      Between  the 
"  Steps  "  are  black  and  swirling  pools  whence  one  may  coax  a  few  fine 
mountain  trout.     The  pcctdiar  formation  extends  for  over  an  eighth  of 
a  mile ;  and  eveiy  here  and  there  some  vhiife  more  tunndtuous  than  its 
fellows  sends  up  a  clond  of  spray.     Hard  by  is  the  Fair>/  River,  or 
rE'au  Tenue,  whose  small  stream  buries  itself  in  the  earth  to  reappear 
a  little  farther  down.     The  beach  at  the  foot  of  .Montmorency  Falls  is 
the  scene  of  Wolfe's  disastrous  attack  on  July  31,  1759.    In  at;tcmpting 
to  scale  these  perpendicular  heights,  which  were  defended  by  the  mosl 
expert  of  French-Canadian  marksmen,  Wolfe  lost  no  less  than  500  men 
in  killed  and  wounded. 

Places  of  Interest  near  the  City. 

Four  miles  beyond  Montmorency  is  the  village  of  PAuge  Gardien, 
with  some  nice  trout  streams  in  th«  neigljhorliood,  and  good  snii.c  and 


I 


QUEBEC. 


95 


partridge  shooting  in  the  autumn  months.     Yet  5  milo.  f„.f' 
we  come  to  the  love,,  phm.  and  apple  o.hard    of"!  2/"' 
Here,  also,  are  good  snipe-grounds,  and  there  is  excellent  tZt«h 
above  and  belo.v  the  romantic  falls  of  Sault  ,  la  plt         *'«"*-^^^»^-g 
lhera/.o«./VV,.cof  the  Quebec,  Montmorenev  and  Charlevoi  R  R 

:^Z^7^^-;";r '^  Beaupre,other.i;e  Icnowln^;:;  1^ 
«f.  .ium.    About  cislitoen  yonra  ago  tlie  parish  chiiieli  nf  S,    . 
was  raised  by  the  Pope  ,„  .  s|,ri„e  „f  ,|,e  L.t  o,de       of  1  ^ 

r\::r,irL  ei:7Sr "--  --'■'"-- 
je  i„  a„  S..OS.  .0,,,  ^^:^j::::zi:z:;:iz:'z 

piteous  and  supp  catin<'  dccrenifiifl..      ti      i       .    •  ^-^^i^e^'e  of 

lnn„,„er„„lo  crLos  wWcM    ^  "  e™  U      tT^;:  '''"-"^  '"' 

blind.  It  IS  said,  return  from  the  shrinp  nt  Ht    k  •  , 

The  .nvit  rinv  f ...    -1     •  '^^-  '^""*^  ^^'th  seeing  eyes 

witn  Mitli.    In  the  church  is  a  reallv  fine  nainl  n^  l,v  r  „  n 
sonting  St.  Anne  and  the  Vircin      11,!;  'i^"        °    ^  ""'  ''''P"- 

ehuroh.  in  ,6„6,  by  the  Ma'        'de  T  ay'     ^  IITTI  '°  '"^ 
village  arc  the  wildlv  beantifnl  fwis  o  •*   T  .         '       '"  "'" 

of  seven  phm-es     Tmn,  "'        ,        -^        ^""''  """''''  "P  "'  »  ""i'-s 
below  the  fullf  ■  '  °°"  '"'"""  ""  '»"■'■-  """"''''■"  above  and 

Cartier,  wUh     s     .eelin    1 1  T.T"  •""'  '^°'  "'""  •'''''"- 

-d  L.En,eri„„„,  pai  *,;  tl^;'* ,';"':;:'  "d  'r'"  "T'-'- 

be  se  ,  „,„,.„  ,„„„„,,  ,„.^  errt^^L'tL:::;-  ;'■;;:  r 

ing  little  company.     About  4  miles  farther  nnt  ni         ., 
Hosthe  beautim,  vi„„,e  of  C,,l^  EastwaMo  'a.Tb"™''  " 
;ta„d  the  rnin.  of  a  fan,ous,  or  notoriol  ebC    'f  "L  t    K       f 
t^Pe,  variously  .nown  .s  ^«„.„„„,,  cij;^^;  /  ^ ^  ,:C 


f        .' 


I    Hi 


I 


06 


QUEBEC. 


Tho  ronmnco  of  this  historic  stnu-ture  has  been  reproduced  for  us  by 
such  writtM's  as  M.  Anu'uloo  I'npincau;  M.  Marinette,  in  his  story  of 
L'Intoiidant  Hipot ;  and  Mr.  Kirby,  in  Le  C'hicn  d'Or.  It  is  given  briefly 
as  foMows  in  HoUiwcll's  (iuide  to  the  City  of  Quebec: 

"  At  the  foot  of  La  Montague  des  Ormes  arc  tlic  ruins  of  Oli&teau 
Migot,  ruins  which  can  now  but  faintly  give  an  idea  of  what  the  origi- 
nal building  was,  of  its  grandeur,  of  its  extent,  of  its  secret  passages, 
or  its  form.  Two  gables  and  a  center  wall,  or  rather  the  remnants  of 
them,  are  visible,  and  from  the  fact  of  there  being  a  sort  of  clearance, 
now  partly  overgrown,  we  may  presume  that  there  was  a  garden. 
Ensconced  in  the  midst  of  a  forest  on  one  of  tho  sloj)es  of  the  Lawren- 
tides  are  these  relics  of  the  past,  and  one  can  not  but  be  impressed  with 
deep  melancholy  as  his  eyes  rest  upon  this  deserted  spot  and  his  fancy 
repcoples  the  sliattercd  halls  and  chambers  with  the  giddy  and  guilty 
throngs  which  once  crowded  them.  History  has  given  some  few  indis- 
tinct data,  and  imagination  has  done  the  rest  for  this  story  of  the  past. 

"The  Intendant  Bigot,  whose  profligacy  and  extravagance  were  tin- 
limited,  and  whose  rapacity  sujiplied  his  requirements,  constructed  this 
cliilteau  in  the  wilils  of  the  mountains;  and  hither,  with  companions  as 
graceless  as  hiujsilf,  he  was  wont  to  adjourn  in  every  excess  of  dissi- 
pation. The  intendant  was  a  man  fond  of  field  sports,  and  the  ch&teau 
was  the  headiiuarters  of  his  hunting  expeditions.  It  is  said  that  on 
one  of  these  he  lost  his  way,  and  met  a  young  Algonquin  s(piaw  of 
sijigular  beauty,  who  led  him  to  the  chateau,  and,  being  induced  to 
enter  its  walls,  its  strong  doors  were  closed  against  her  egress,  and  she 
renuiined  there  a  j)risoner  either  to  love  or  to  fate.  But  the  intendant 
was  a  man  of  nuirk  in  the  colony,  a  man  to  satisfy  the  longings  of  any 
ambitious  girl  who  might  wish  for  powar,  and  such  a  one  there  was  in 
the  city  of  Quebec  who  was  determined  to  have  the  intendant  as  her 
lord,  that  she,  as  his  wife,  might  rule  in  New  France  and  punish  those 
who  had  slighted  her.  Such  a  one,  it  is  said  by  Mr.  Kirby,  in  his  his- 
torical romance,  The  (iolden  Dog,  was  Angelique  des  Moloises ;  and 
she  had  heard  of  the  Indian  maid  at  Beaumanoir.  Murder  is  a  trifle 
to  such  natures  as  hers,  wholly  absorbed  by  ambition;  and  one  night 
a  iiiercing  cry  was  heard  echoing  through  the  halls  and  corridors  of 
Beavinumoir,  and  Caroline,  the  mihappy  Algoncpun,  was  found  stabbed 
dead.  Not  long  since  was  to  be  seen  her  grave-stone  in  a  vault  of 
Beaumanoir,  with  but  the  letter  C  engraved  thereon.  It  is  said  that 
the  mihappy  Carolitie  was  not  of  full  Indian  race,  l)ut  that  her  father, 
by  marriage,  was  an  officer  of  high  rank  in  the  army  of  France.  Such 
is  the  story,  not  the  first  nor  the  last,  connected  with  this  place,  which 
has  been  replete  with  guilt  and  caused  much  sorrow." 


Q,uebec  to  Lake  St.  John. 

There  are  two  grand  side  trips  to  be  made  from  Quebec — that  by 
the  Ontario  and  Richelieu  Navigation  Co.  to  Chicoatimi,  at  the  bead 


QUEBEC   TO   LAKE   ST.    JOHN.  97 

t"  (■I.ie,„„i,„i    which  .ill  ,Tu,    "'".■"'I'™)'  ea-twar,!  f,,,m  the  lake 

^»  «;*....  .he  Jr;  J::rt;';  h;:^  "  --""'"  "»^ 

the  flm,,.  nation,,  ,,„|j  i,;  ,,  earn  „!  '^,'^°  '""f  •  ''o  feathered,  and 
»oods,of  i„yria.l8of  daTntv  lake,  'm,!  l^  ,  "^  °'  ""tl^"  tanplod 
tude  of  natui  „,.  the  n,us  e  „f  rSlino.  ,  '°  '°™"  "'o  stately  soli, 
absolute  Utopia  of  deli"ht         "      =  "'■^'""'  """''>  ^>'^  »"d  here  on 

uJIfaf S""rS  S'Z.;.WT  "-f  "°'\"-  '«"  "■■"- 
n-on  messenger  back  aiul  forth  and  tho  n  •  .•  '*  '"^'"^^  '*«  snortin- 
caribou,  and  the  runiinai  t  r  i  "'P^-^^'  the  pompous 

of  the  brazen  fiend  ^""^  m^^Hed  at  the  hideous  shriek 

^^^^;'i^.t  they  don't  stand  long-at  least,  not  to  any  alarming  0.. 

"ing't!^".ilt.;;J^I:r^;lSfi^;;f i.^^^    ^^^^y-^^^  f--  begm. 

n.mantic,  fantastie  spoSc  Kr  n^  i'"  ^"[^^t-^n  endless,  w^ld, 
is  carved  between  >naio'l  Les  iiX  m  ^H  ^''""'^'f  '""««  '*«  P'^^h' 
even  a  hunter's  oabin  to  break  rhll  "^  "'^i''"^*'  "^  '^  dwellin-  nor 
For  4.)  nulos  it  tind"  tl  c^^Sd  u' y  aTot'tV'  *'  ''"'"'"f''  '^^'^t'^"- 
River,  whose  turbulent  watcrT  wZ I"?-  *''"  '*'"':''''  ^^  ^^e  Batiscan 
^vith  unbridled  fie.x-.mess  beTwerCrbrrnoT  "i'^''^'^'^-^^  dash 
no  indieation  of  human  life  is  visihlo  „W    ?.      ''■'''^  mountains,  while 

,      "  It  is  a  Journey  to  thrilTt^  v  ry  tf  i?  I'T  '"V^^^'^^^"^'^^' 
I'oen  hemmed  by  the  busy  ]mmnffL-       ?  ^'^'^  ^'^ose  days  have 
Pcrfeet  breeze  that  Iwee  s  in  ml.     .  "«'j^,^''ty,  and  a  breath  of  the 
•^">-,l-len  with  the  ^i^JS^f^:''::!:^?-^  through  the  val- 
vond  measure  and  price.  "•"^■^'"'  '»  health-givmg  and  bracing  be- 


In  the  ear  v  ev.>i.  no  xv„ ,1.  .1     .      "'^/^-P'J. 


car. 


per,  stroll 


upon  the  bluff  and  gaze 


ch  the  journey's  end,  and,  alter  sup, 
aze  enraptured  upon  a  magnificent 


j . 


98 


QUKBKC   T(»    LAKE   ST.    JOHN. 


Hhoot  of  clear,  white  water.     Aa  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  it  rests  like  a 
mirror,  as  quiet  and  calm  as  if  never  a  breeze  had  rimpled  its  sleeping 

surfaec. 

"What  a  delusion!  No  more  itisolent  inland  sea  can  be  found 
upon  the  continent;  none  more  roarin^r,  saucy,  and  turbulent,  none 
more  audacious  and  tumultuous  than  this  impudent  sheet  of  water, 
now  so  bland,  docile,  and  polished,  lict  but  a  few  careering  winds 
fondle  its  surface,  and  the  very  i>ssence  of  stormy  savagencss  holds 
ferocious  carousal.  This  is  Lake  St.  John,  the  source  of  the  marvel- 
ous Saguenuy,  and  the  home — the  only  home — of  the  peerless  ouana- 
nish,  tiic  grandest  game-lish,  the  most  prodigious  warrior  that  plows 
niche  water." 

About  10  miles  from  Quebec,  close  to  the  line  of  this  railway,  is  the 
lovely  village  of  India?}.  Lorcttc,  where  dwells  a  remnant  of  the  Huron 
tribe.  These  Indians  are  civilized  and  self-respecting,  and  their  vil- 
lage will  well  repay  a  visit.  Th(>  station  for  Lorcttc  is  known  as  Indian 
Lorettc.  Lorette  occupies  a  bi  ozy  height  450  ft.  above  tide,  and  from 
this  point  of  vantage  we  get  an  unrivaled  view  of  (iuebec,  Levis,  Isle 
d'Orleans,  and  the  valley  of  the  St.  Charles.  Beside  the  village  thunders 
the  picturesque  cataract  known  as  the  Falh  of  Lyrdtc.  Sixteen  miles 
from  (Jucbec  we  cross  the  lovely  Jacques- Cart! er  River,  already  re- 
ferred to  as  famous  for  its  trout  and  salmon  pools.  In  the  valley  of 
this  river  is  the  village  of  Valcarticr,  which  was  chiefly  settled  by  re- 
tired English  officers  and  soldiers.  In  the  village  cemetery,  deep  in 
the  heart  of  the  liaurentian  Hills,  lie  no  fewer  than  nineteen  of  the 
veterans  of  Waterloo. 

A  few  miles  farther  and  we  reach  Lake  St.  Joseph,  a  fair  water 
much  frequented  by  Quebecers  in  the  summer-time.     The  lake  is  22 
miles  long  by  8  miles  wide,  and  the  mountains  that  encircle  it,  clothed 
richly  in  birch  and  maple,  beech  and  ash,  come  down  to  the  water's 
edge.     Hither  and  thither  over  its  bosom,  for  the  delight  of  the  sum- 
mer traveler,  plies  the  steamer  Ida.     The  waters  of  the  lake,  of  a  won- 
derful tr:nsparency  and  depth,  abound  in  black  bass,  trout,  and  the 
voracious  "  togue  "—a  species  of  thick-set  lake-trout  sometimes  reach- 
ing 30  pounds  in  weight,  and  to  be  captured  by  trolling.     There  are 
good  summer  hotels  on  Lake  St.  Joseph.     Five  miles  beyond,  the  rail- 
way touches  the  shores  of  Lake  Sargeant,  once  famous  for  its  black 
bass,  but  at  present  spoiled  by  over-fishing.     At  St.  Raipnond  we  cross 
the  river  St.  Anne,  whose  valley  widens  here  to  receive  the  charming 
village.     St.  Raymond  is  the  center  of  a  great  fishing  and  shooting 
district,  and  nviy  profitably  delay  for  a  time  the  tourist  whose  passion 


QUEBEC  TO  r.AKE  ST.   JOHN.  99 

workshop,  „t  the  railway  company.     A  little  l,cl„„  ,he  vilh^e  Z 

»»voro  and  ™lo,.,„l  noencry,  an  tho  IMI,  &^„„,„,     IZ^Tr  Z 
from  Qncbo»  tl,o  railway  ontors  ll,e  valley  of  iwT^'-  ,  '''' 

i.  follow.,  for  a  dintan.^  of  S<    IZ^^tTZT"'  "'■""  ™""" 
i;..ly  .fine,  e.peeially  a.  the  point,  wherf  IL'  .  rirZoi^d'ri" 

;. —.  .t  tLrenrer:;,  :t::^rri: 

,  "'"  '"'^- -«•  »^««ois,  22  Jabrique  St.,  Quebec      Ahnnfiio 

.:r.:^:  tt:;::?  r:  t  r  r-'  rf ^"-^ -'"— ^ 

peculiarly  fl„,  and  impettLL:'*:    7  """'  '"^''"'  "'"■  ° 

-..  ...own  ,y  .he  „r„e  ^n  «:t:rr  Tr,:!::;^! 
t:Lrr"r^ii::t  "t;"-"  i"^™"-  -^^  "^  o^«nedr  t :: 

obtained.    The  wa  er,  „rtl  r,^  .'  °  *''  '■'^"'^'''  "'"-  ">«>•  >« 

I..*  deep  hay,  and  inlet.,,  a,  yet  pli^,™  l:  C  "ilTt""' 

r„,t  ^""/.'■"'. """  ""'■''-''™  "•"«  "'on.  Q..ebee  the  railroad  ,|,.r.. 

Of  the  ,a.e  u:i:r!:^:zyZ7  """-^  -"  '-^  --  ^^"^ 


i.i 


100 


QUEBEC  TO  LAKE  ST.  JOHN. 


Lake  St.  John. 


The  Lak«  St.  John  Territory  extends  from  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  inver  Saguenai/,  at  CViicoutimi,  to  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
province  of  Quebec,  a  distance  of  220  miles,  and  from  the  sources  of 
the  waters  flowing  into  Lake  St.  John,  from  tlie  oast,  to  the  river  St. 
Maurice,  embracing  the  valley  of  the  river  Badsecm,  a  distance  of  200 
mil'^',  =he  wh^lo  worming  an  area  of  44,000  square  miles,  or  about 
28/,-; ".  •      acres.     Comparatively  little  is  known  of  this  great  country, 
with  ■■       exception  of  the  valley  of  Lake  St.  John,  wliich,  within  the 
last  few  years,  has  been  colonized  with  groat  rapidity,  and  now  contains 
a  population  of  some  40,.;00.     The  soil  is  almost  universally  composed 
of  rich,  gray  clay,  whoso  fertility  seems  well-nigh  inexhaustible.     The 
climate  of  the  region  resembles  that  of  Montreal,  being  more  temperate 
than  that  of  Quebec,  and  with  a  much  less  heavy  snow-fall.     The  lake 
itself,  called  by  the  Indians  Pikouagami,  or  "  Flat  Lake,''  is  28  miles 
long  by  25  miles  broad,  but  for  the  most  part  not  more  than  80  ft.  in 
depth.     There  flow  into  it  no  fewer  than  19  rivers,  chief  of  which  are 
the  mysterious  Peribonca,  400  miles  long,  the  Misiassini,  300  miles 
long,  and  the  Ashuapmonchouan,  the  "river  where  they  watch  the 
moose,"  150  miles  in  length.     These  are  navigable  for  steamers  for 
distances  of  from  10  to  20  miles  from  their  mouths,  after  which  they 
are  obstructed  by  rapids  and  cataracts.     The  river   Ouiatchouan  is 
famous  for  its  magnificent  falls,  which  lie  in  a  most  conspicuous  and 
impressive  situation  about  a  mile  from  the  lake  shore.     This  cataract 
is  estimated  to  possess  a  height  of  280  ft.     All  these  gathering  waters 
find  nn  outlet  by  one  great  stream,  called  La  Decharge  du  Lac 
St.  Jean,  which  at  Chicoutimi  becomes  the  Saguenay.     This  stream 
is  divided  by  Alma  Island,  for  the  first  8  miles  of  its  course,  into  two 
branches,  called  respectively  the  "  Grande  Decharge  "  and  the  "  Petite 
Decharge  "—the  former  of  which  divides  with  the  Peribonca  the  honor 
of  being  the  favorite  resort  of  the  "  ouananiche." 

This  famous  fish,  whose  name  is  spelled  with  a  truly  Chfucerian 
breadth  of  variation,  has  quite  eclipsed  in  reputation  the  other  denizens 
of  these  well -stocked  waters.  It  is  thus  effectively  and  exactly 
described  by  Messrs.  L.  M.  Yale  and  J.  G.  A.  Creighton  in  Scribner's 
Magazine  for  May,  1889: 

"  In  appearance  a  fresh-run  salmon  and  a  fresh-run  ouananiche  do 
not  differ  nmch  more  than  salmon  from  difterent  rivers.    The  back  of 


QUEBEC  TO   LAKE   ST.    JOHN. 


101 


I 


on  a  trout ;  i^^o^:^£  i:^:^;:?^^^  te  X^,  ^'^^ --"^^-- 
numerous  and  loss  sharply  defined  •  fI,P  n.f,  i,  '  p^  '^-'"''^'■^8  are  more 
green  on  the  gill  covers  are  krlV  /I ''.n.''''""'^^  P"'P'e.  «nd 
are  several  large  ronn  f  bh'cl  sSs  \"'T  ''""''""*'  '^"^  ^^'*''  ^^0'" 
bright  hues  getllull  3  t o ™i ?.  /,  .^  *'"  ''''''''  S''"^'"*  "'•*'•">  the 
lo.*^>r  jaw  of' the  spaCiL   ^h^^^  *''"  •'"•' V^'^'  ««'«••  '"^d  hooked 

the  salmon,  feeds  Sntinum  sv  ^..f?  ^^'i  ,^^'  '^'  «"ananiche,  unlike 
than  salmon  lie  in,  U  ha  a  S^m-  >  "'"^'h  /'f"vier  and  swifter  water 
pound  ouananiehe  can  leap  hS  and  n^^^^^^  and  arger  fins,  so  that  a  five- 
a  te«.puund  sal.non.  The  vaSty  of it^t^l^t,  'S-">°"'''^'  '"^'  ^^^'  "^e 
those  of  the  trout  and  those  of  VlLi  '''^^'t^'/'''*'^'  "'^  »  compound  of 
own,  give,  great  charm  oouaLnichf""r'  ""''^  T''  P^'^"Jiarities  of  its 
3tyle  from  the  '  floati""  ^'Z  t?n v  hn  ?"  ."^V""?  ?PP«'-t»"ity  for  every 
salmon  cast.     It  ?akes°the  flv  ren  Ji  v     ['  '''■^^'\  1"'^  '''"^  ^'^''  '  «f  the 

trout  of  the  ZTJ^trai:^:„Sie:"z''' "'"?  '•"■«" "'»" " 

inches  Ions,  twelve  hlhe,^  in  rirth   a  d  ^^Is^'lT''    ' '" 'T'^"™ 
salmon.    Now  and  then  «n\lij^ «  i.    V  ?      "'"'  ""  cifc'ht-nound 

-  .^.  the.  are  intSl/^  ^  J^t^Ji;^  ^^^^^b^lK^^ 

absolute  sSve feign  of  the  wrterv^I-in.f.  ^°^       ^"'  ^"P*'"'^'  he  is  the 
for  the  first  timnmmil      h7f^  h^i^-K  ^^' 'P.^^'*"'"^ 
mendous  leaps  andTc  y  stn,' oSi  s  ZV"  ^"^'^^'•"d^d  at   the   tre- 
vigorous  contentions  arJLouln'  whi       .  '''''*'',  antagonist.      His 

turns  a  complete  somersault  n'    til-  -  ''      ^''' '^  ^^^'         *^^  '"'"  '^^ 
fierceness  of  an  enrac^^d  S'     Th       ".'"'^/hakmg  his  head  with  the 

that  one  seen.  t^b^fi'g,;trAhe  fish'in Ihe' h  '''"^P'  T  ^^  ^^"*'""-« 
•  •  .  In  the  sprinn-  they  are°bXr1urr,       T ""'."' "''^  ^' '"  ^he  water. 

suckers,  and  I  wal  toW  th  n  todc  tho  5  '• ''  t''^  ""^  '^''  ^>^'*«  "^^^^  «f 
various  kinds  of  flies  I  did  notle  «  '  «,\'"/""''  ^"*  ^'^^'^'^gh  I  tried 
I  learned  that  Jul?  was  the  n^o  or  tfn^f'  "/  '''  "•  '''''  ^^fterward 
the  fish  rise  with  avidi  y  Thc^  S  ites  fish  tJ  ^/-/'If^'^g'  ^"^  that  then 
two  pounds,  and  the  heavies   «  t.?il       i     J'""^  *^"  ^°  ^^  ''"^  weiglied 

took  thirty:eight,  and  could  rldfvh"'^'';^,^"  1^""'^^^-     ^"  ^^^  ^avs  I 
enough.'"       *=    '  ""''^  '''^•^'^'^  ^'^^e  taken  many  more,  but  I  had 

M^^!^^r  '''  ^'""^  ''  '"  '^^^^  ''-  '^^hn,  is  a  reserve  of 
ontagnais  Indians,  a  most  interesting  tribe,  of  whom  Mr.  W.  H.  H. 


jlK      -t^^  ■ 


102 


QUEBEC   TO   LAKE    ST.    JOHN. 


Murray  (Adirondack  Murray),  writes :  "  They  are  the  '  mountaineers '  of 
ancient  times  and  wars,  and  dwelt  among  the  Laurcntian  Hills.  They 
were  a  brave  stock,  and  they  and  the  Esquinmux  of  Labrador  were  never 
at  peace.  The  mounds  of  Mamclons,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Su<ruenay, 
could  tell  of  wars  fought  on  them  for  a  thousand  years,  could  their 
sands  but  speak.  The  Monta^nais  at  Roberval  are  very  dark  of  skin. 
They  arc  great  hunters,  skilled  trappers,  great  canocraen,  and  runners. 
They  are  a  racial  curiosity  and  worthy  of  study  on  the  part  of  the  in- 
telligent tourist,  and  the  sight  of  them  and  their  peculiarities  will  be 
entertaining  to  all."  The  tourist  who  contemplates  doing  the  Lake  St. 
John  region  and  the  Saguenay  will  do  well  to  procure  Mr.  Murray's 
romances  of  "  Mamclons  "  and  "  Ungava." 

The  accommodations  on  Lake  St.  John  are  all  that  could  be  desired. 
The  Hotel  Roherval  is  excellent  in  all  respects.     Its  proprietor  has  se- 
cured from  the  Provinciixl  Government  the  excli'sive  fishing  rights  of 
the  lake  and  it«  tributaries,  with  the  double  purpose  of  protecting  the 
fish  adequately  and  of  affording  the  guests  of  the  house  free  fishing 
facilities.     A  branch  of  the  hotel,  called  the  Island  Home,  has  been 
established  on  an  island  in  the  Grande  Decharge,  in  the  midst  of  the 
fishing-pools.     A  fascinating  and  thrilling  canoe   trip  may  be  taken 
from  the  Island  House  down  the  tumultuous  river  to  Chicoutimi,  to 
meet  the  Saguenay  stream.     This  trip— not  designed  for  the  timorous- 
hearted— may  be  made  for  |10,  which  includes  the  hire  of  birch  canoe 
and  two  Indian  guides.     The  Hotel  Co.  keeps  on  hand  a  supply  of 
camp  outfits,  which  may  be  obtained  by  tourists  who  wish  to  go  into 
the  wilderness.     Such  a  wilderness  may  be  reached  by  ascending  al- 
most any  of  the  inflowing  rivers  for  a  very  few  miles  from  their  mouths. 
Here   are   regions  where  not   even  the   lumberman's  axe  has   gone, 
and  where  one  may  follow  no  footsteps  more  civilized  than  those  of  the 
Montagnais  trapper.   The  close  season  for  ouananiche  begins  on  Septem- 
ber 15th,  and  lasts  till  December  1st.    The  return  ticket  from  Quebec  to 
Roberval  costs  |7.60 ;  and  for  sportsmen,  in  parties,  there  are  special 
reductions  made,  with  certain  privileges  as  to  dogs,  equipments,  etc.,  to 
be  enjoyed  on  application  to  the  General  Passenger  Agent  at  Quebec. 
Besides  the  ouananiche,  the  fish  of  the  Lake  St.  John  region,  speaking 
broadly,  include  salmon,  maskinonge,  speckled  trout,  great  gray  trout 
(or  togue,  or  touladi),  bass,  pickerel,  white-fish.     The  Quebec  and  Lake 
St,  John  R.  R.  is  a  new  road,  excellently  constructed,  and  equipped 
luxuriously  in  the  most  modern  style ;  and  one  may  ride  in  a  palace 


DOWN  THE   8T.    LAWRENCB. 


103 


car  into  the  very  heart  of  the.e  ancient  northern  wildernesses,  so  Ion. 
magmed  to  be  a  region  of  endless  sno.v.  The  line  is  now  Extended 
rom  iUe   ake  to  Chleoutin^i,  enabling  tourists  to  make  the  round  tr  p 

from  Quebec  and  back  in  twcnty-four  hours. 

Down  the  St.  Lawrence  and  up  the  Saguenay. 

The  steamers  ot  the  Ontario  and  Itiehelieu  Navigation  Co.  leave 
Quebec  at  a  comfortable  hour  in  the  n.orning,  arrive  at  ladou.ac,  at 
the  yecnai,  mouth,  some  little  time  after  dark,  ascend  the  mysterious 
nver  by  n.ght  to  ChicouH.n,  and  then,  leaving  Chicoutimi  in  the  "  y 
mornmg,  descend  the  Saguenay  by  daylight  and  afford  the  traveler  a 

t'urnt;r;  ?•  ^?^"«^^^'^'"^^'y-  '•'he  fare  to  Chicoutin.i  and  re- 
turn  ,s  $8      The  trip  .s  one  never  to  be  forgotten.     If  the  day  be  fine 

Toil  of  ''  T'  .™  *'""'*  "'"  '^'^^^  '"^  departure  and  await  the 
return  of  sunshme-the  journey  commences  under  delightful  auspices. 
The  transparent  morning  light  and  crisp  air  bring  out  the  full  glory  of 
the  enchanting  city.  Greener  than  ever  appears  Isle  d'Orleans  nLe 
beryl-bright  the  St.  Lawrence  tide,  more  white  and  cloud-like T'skvey 
curtain  of  the  Montmorency  Falls.     When  St.  Anne's  is  passed  'the 

em  .irrr"'-'""' '""'^'  '''  "^^"^  f-biddingly  upon  the  north- 
e.n  um  of  the  river,  rising  hundreds  of  feet,  in  places,  sheer  from  the 
water's  edge.     These  Laurentide  Hills  are  sometimes  nUed,  sometime 
lad  with  somber  forests;  but  here  and  there  they  suffer  a  Httle  valley 

1  Z/'-''  TV"^  '"'''  '"'^  ^'"^-^^ ''''  ^'^  '^-y  ^'^^^»«h  village 
and  glittering  chapel  spire.  It  is  a  sterile  corner,  indeed,  where  the 
hardy  and  frugal  kabi^ant  will  not  make  himself  a  home,  aild  multiply 

Thet'rnT  "  TTl  '"  ''''^  '  "^^'^'"^  ^■"'^  h'^  '-'^y  -   the  gate 
The  e  ht^^^e  secluded  settlements  are  pnV.itive  in  the  extreme,  and  re- 

p  oduee.he  Norman-French  life  of  two  centuries  ago.    The  atmosphere 

of  the  Laurentian  Hills  is  not  hospitable  to  chamxe,  and  most  of  the 

influences  of  mutability  pass  by  on  the  other  side  of  the  river 

A  little  below  the  foot  of  Isle  d'Orleans  we  pass,  on  the^N.  shore 

water  s  edge.     Then  come  the  granite  masses  of  Cap  Rouge  and  Cap 

vtolntlv  d  ^!"     '  *'"  """'  ''  *'"  ^''^^'^^''^  «''-"  thev  rushed 

T:^  tZ;^lJ^:!'  Penshed  in  the  se,  had  no  s^ch  leap 
£oucharf  R  u  "'^''"^  ^^  3/aeYforrf  comes  in  the 

Bouchard  R^ver,  up  whose  valley  extends  the  populous  village  of  8t. 


ii  m 


""«i* 


HiUllltHi 


104 


DOWN   TIIK   rtT.    I.AWUKNOK. 


Fraiifoh  XitvifW,  Aftor  puHsing  T'd/)  l^u/xiir,  tin*  hU'iuiht  lioftvos  to,  tc 
iiii>(<(  tlic  Ixmls  wliicli  4'oiii«>  out  rroni  tlu>  tliri vilify  M(>ttl(<nHMit  of  >sV, 
/*im/',v  Hill/.  Stniu'  of  tlic  liiH'si  HociUMy  of  tlu'  liver's  iiortlivr!;  hIi(»i'o 
is  i\l)«)iil.  tills  jutiiit.  Tli«>  viilU'v  lU'H  oprii  lK<fon'  (ho  truv«'lt>i''n  oyos, 
Tlio  rivi'i-H  (ioufirfMui  Moulin  open  iuii;;iillin>nt  vistas  into  tlio  stmiif^o 
itmnlry  l)iu'l<  fn)iu  tlio  ooiist,  wliii'li  scorns  a  sou  of  niountaiit-pfiilis. 
Tli(>  (iisti'ict  is  a  volniiiic  otio,  subject  to  treiiiitliii^s  and  slioel<s,  and 
ahoniitiiiiu  in  curious  salt  ami  sulphur  springs.  It  is  .^^aid  that  in  I7!U 
a  peak  lo  the  notth  of  the  village  vomited  smoke  and  llain«>  for  S(>vcral 
days,  while  the  country  round  about  was  tormented  with  eartli(|uaUcs. 
In  llWilt  the  disturbances  of  this  re<i;ion  wurc  much  more  violent  and 
tcrrifyiuj;,  anti  at  /-<.<(  /'.'(>oiilniinitn{vn'\\  named),  a  few  miles  farther  down 
the  coast,  nuiy  still  be  seen  the  tracks  of  the  frijrhtful  laiul-slides  which 
n)ad«>  such  changes  in  the  face  (»f  the  landscape.  "The  St.  Lawrence 
ran  white  as  milk  as  far  down  as  Tadousac;  ranges  «d"  hills  were 
thro'vn  down  into  the  river,  or  were  swallowed  up  in  the  plains;  earth- 
(piakes  shattered  the  houses,  ami  shook  the  troort  till  the  litdians  said 
that  the  forests  were  drunk ;  vast  fiss\nrs  opened  in  the  ground ;  and 
the  iH)urses  of  streams  were  changed.  Meteors,  tiery-winged  serpents, 
aiul  ghastly  specters  were  seen  in  the  air;  roarings  and  mysterious 
voices  mounded  on  everv  side;  and  the  confessionals  of  all  the  churches 
were  crowded  with  penitents  awaiting  the  end  of  the  world.  ...  An 
earthquake  r(u»tcd  up  a  niountain  and  threw  it  upon  h/r  au.r  (\uiifn'H, 
which  was  nu\dc  one  half  larger  than  before;  and  in  the  place' «)f  the 
mountain  there  appeared  a  gulf,  which  it  is  not  safe  to  approach." 

This  hh' OHX  Coutltrs  lies  with  its  head  olT  />'<///>/.  /'on/  and  its 
lower  extremity  otT  /-«•.«{  h'fumfnnaih.  Hctwecn  its  shores  and  Hay 
St.  Paid  is  Lr  (tonj'ir,  where  the  water  suddenly  attains  a  depth  oi"  30 
fathoms,  and  where  the  meeting  «>f  the  Hood  tide  with  the  river  currents 
makes  a  vast  scries  of  etldics  and  miniature  v.hirlpools.  Of  old,  ere  Le 
(tOKj^W  had  got  Hlled  vip  with  sand  deposits,  there  was  a  mighty  whirl- 
pool, or  siiceession  of  w  hirlpools,  at  the  spot,  ami  it  was  indeed  "  not 
safe  to  approach,"  as  the  ancient  chronicle  declared.  The  district  is  rich 
in  iron,  pbnnbago,  limestone,  and  garnet-rock.  The  island,  which  is  be- 
tween ft  and  (»  miles  long  and  about  half  as  wide,  is  thickly  peoi)led  with 
a  tho\'ougldy  laedia'val  farming  population,  t'te  (piaintcst  of  the  (puiint. 
It  belongs  to  the  Seminary  of  Quebec,  to  which  it  was  granted  in  1687. 

The  vilfaffc  of  Z<w  h'boi(leineiih,  which  we  come  to  next,  commands 
from  its  lofty  peivh  a  uiagnlficent  view  up  and  down  the  river.     Lofty 


IH1WN    TIIK   ST.'   t.AWKHNCK. 


lo:> 


•»  it  I.,  ti„,  .i„rk  „„.»,  .,f  M,.  i::i,„„i, ,  „,,,.|„„|„ 

'  '"■  ""'-■•  '»-  "'■  "■"■••«.•  m.™  „„„.„  i,„„  u„.  „„  „  «■,„;!"• 

,"' ' ."";'  ""•■'•I''"!'  i»  'I'o  1"""'  "f  Ml.  i;:i,.„,i,,,„..,„  ,„,.i  „„  it, 

"  row     .s  .  Uw,™..,..    Thol„,visv,.r,.,l,„ll„„,  ,„„,,|,..v „,.,„,„    ,. 

t  .  I„  ,l,o,, ,.(,  ,|„.  foot  of  ,|,„  „|,,,„,i,„  ,,,„„„„„„       „ 

-   .low,,    ,„o,  ,.|,„„„„„i„  ,,i„,„.|,^  ^„„  ^,^„^,^,  .^  «,I  t,   ;.        ' 

:  ""••"'■  """„: - "-™ v.., ,,.  u  M  „  ,i„. ,;,,:;"::" 

118  the  A/unuu,  mvrr  aii.l  the  (.'miwf  ami  IKH,  r  ,,.  .       ,         ' 

v.,..luroa,  ,1,„,,.,  of    t:  ::"'      ,  °  ,,^"'''"''™■*».  «l'«  Prot.y  ,.„,! 
u,H'oi,i|,i|.|(.,l  N»ti,iT  ,,„d  vi,..,-     ,;.  i  .   .     '  ■  •  ■  ™''.'»rc™viigi)auil 

tos.sc.d  about,  hoa pod  up  in  U  th  fn,   ?         Z.  ''  ^^^■'■""'''  ""*"''^'' 

"a-n,  uc-ar  a  Volcano  thit  fro      t  o^        ""  ,*'"  ''*'^'  "^  ^''^'"''^d 

inhabitants.''  *"  ^"S»»ten,  but  not  to  ondany,,-  the  ron.antic 

to  ni^i^T'^""  ''"  '*'"'"*-*'■  "'""^^''^'^  *^'«  «^-  Lawrence  diagonally 
to  Rivi6re  du  Loup  (so  called  from  the  droves  of  seals  oi-Zl 
--..S  that  of  old  frequented  its  shoals),  a  distanoo  of  Z    \     Z  ' 
K-ore  du  Loup  is  a  thriving  town  of  about  5.000  inhabH^:'::, 


5 : 


100 


IX)WN   TIIK   WT.    LAWUKNCK. 


Ih  the  point  whtTo  tlio  Intorcolonial  R.  R.  \h  joined  by  the  Teminoou- 
ntii  It.  U.  Tlio  town  iH  pifturc,s(|iu'ly  Hifimtcd  on  lii^^h  liind  near 
tlio  livor-inoutli.  Near  (he  town  arc  tlic  pit'tur(>M(|no  h'iviih'r  </u  Loup 
FhIIh,  wlitTf  till'  Htmini  niakcH  a  fine  pliin<,'('  of  HO  ft.  into  a  doep,  (pilot 
basin  in  tlio  rockH.  Uivii^ii"  du  Loiip  Is  a  pUniHai.t  Hninmer  renort,  and 
Ih  wi'll  Hiipplicd  with  hotels  and  boardinf>-h()iiHi>s.  Six  nillcH  from 
Itivii^ri'  du  Lonp  is  the  famous  siimnu'i-  resort  of  C'acouna— probably 
the  most  famous  in  Oanada.  It  lias  admirable  hotel  aecoinniodation, 
fine  beaches  and  scenery,  and  a  remarkably  cool,  bracing  climate  in 
the  hoftcst  montlis.  The  chief  hote'  of  Cacouna  Is  the  St.  Lain-mce 
//nil,  which  accommodates  tmo  guestH.  The  Mamion  Home  is  com- 
fortable, and  very  moderate  in  its  chargoH.  Still  cheaper  are  the  numcr- 
oiiH  summer  boarding-hou.ses.  Anything  but  moderate,  however,  arc  the 
cab  charges  for  the  drive  from  Hivii'ic  du  Loup  to  Cacouna,  unless  one 
takes  the  wise  precaution  to  arrange  terms  before  starting.  Cacouna 
stands  on  a  remarkable  rocky  peninsula  nearly  400  ft.  high. 

From  Rivi5re  du  Loup  the  steamer  strikes  diagonally  across  the  ;t. 
Lawrence  again,  for  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  passing  between  Hed hi 
a»«/and  the  /immhf  /his.  Tadou.sac,  the  ancient  village  at  the  Sague- 
nay  mouth,  lies  about  185  miles  from  Quebec.  It  was  visited  in  1536 
by  Oartier,  who  saw  many  Indians  fishing  off  the  point,  and  heard  from 
them  a  marvelous  story  to  the  effect  that  by  "  ascending  the  Sague- 
nay  you  reach  a  country  whore  there  are  men  dressed  like  ua,  who 
live  in  cities,  and  have  much  gold,  rubies,  and  copper."  In  1543 
Roberval  explored  the  river  and  left  moat  of  his  company  in  its  awful 
solitudes.  The  mystery  hanging  over  the  fate  of  Roberval  and  his 
brother  Achille,  who  undertook  another  expedition  in  1649,  is  not 
lightened  by  the  intelligence  that  remains  of  an  ancient  stockade  and 
post  have  lately  been  found  on  one  of  the  wild  rivers  emptying  into 
Lake  St.  John,  and  that  these  are  supposed  by  some  to  mark  the  last 
resting-place  of  the  daring  but  unfortunate  explorers.  One  can  under- 
stand the  dread  fascination  that  must  have  been  exerted  on  those  ad- 
venturous spirits  by  the  Titanic  gloom  of  the  great  river,  together  with 
the  strange  tales  of  the  Indians  and  the  reputation  of  one  of  the  tribes, 
the  Nasipiapecs,  for  marvelous  and  invincible  powers  of  magic.  These 
Indians  are  thus  described  in  Mr.  Murray's  romance  already  referred  to : 

"The  Nasquapees  are  one  of  the  most  remarkable  families  of  In- 
dians on  the  continent,  and  of  whom  but  little  is  known.  Their  coun- 
try extends  from  Lake  Mistassini  eastw.ard  to  La!)rador,  and  from  Un- 


DOWN  TIFK   HT.    LAWUKNCK.  \()^ 

Kava  Httv  to  the  conHt'nioiintnirM  r.f  t»...  g»   i 

in  Hizo,  fine  foHtuml,  >v  tl  "     ,|  .  ul     v       ''7'""^"^'      They  are  hm.uII 

nn<l    foot.     Tlu.  uJu'^Sa.        :J^^^  ","''  «'Xt.emoly  H.null  |,«ndH 

tliat  it  rivals  tluMl...'r  sS  ,    ' .  i         "  T"'!'  "'^  '*'"•''"  ''^  •^"  "^'-'te 

tion.  pocuiia,-  to  ..„  mc^in-'^  ;"&;;":  i"fT  "'■"""':  'ir'"'''^^''- 

tl.c...  and  i.ani,,J  t(,  huoI.  a  m1    .,.  ..•''*'  •"""«^''>">''ally  an.o,.- 

KHatorn  oiigin."  '         ''""   ''''J't'"""  l">int  to  a  remote 

I"   mn)  a  tm,liM«-po.st  was  estahlished  at  Tadousac  bv  Pontcrn.v/. 
n.    a  n.o..e  t..adin,.po.st  and  .iHi.in,-station  the  plac"  ronu    .  d     i  i 

»and.,„„„„ds,  which  ri,„  i„  ti„,  .„  ,:.,i;:  ',000  ft  „?"""'• 

the  sea-green  water  of  tlie  St.  Lawrence      Pin.*,  .n  *.  ?  ° 

»i.       Ml  iJitYitiice.     i^iose  on  the  wcstom  pilim  ^f 

the  village  yawn  the  black  iaws  „f  the   S>,m»  <     T        " 

crossiiKT  fv.^^    V  •'      J     r  ^ngutnnii.     A.s  the  steani'^r 

c  0  s.ng  f.om  A..^.v  rf„  /..,,,  approaches  'Jadon.ac  wharf  by  n,oon 
I'glit,  the  .cene  is  one  never  to  be  forgotten.  ^ 

The   Saguenay. 


m 


THK   HAcnrKNAY. 


(Iio  boat  ('liml)H  mtillnviinl  (|«>t«p«>r  and  docpcr  Into  this  liiiul  of  nijHtory. 

NVrapiu'd  in  one's  rnf^  —  l'or,  though  it  is  July,  iiii  u'.v  wind  draws  down  out 

of  tlio  norlli  tliroujrii  tliis  ^voni  tiouitli—anii  croucliinf,'  Id^ii  in  tho 

plow,  »uu>  IVcIs  as  if  lu<  were  on  a  journey  \u'\oi  before  attempted  by 

nu»n -us  if  lu'  were  about  to  i'xpi;)i(<  llie  fabled  !al«>  of  Mistassini,  or 

venture  witli  ilason  and  liis  i'»<llo\vs  on  tlie  sliip  Ar|j;o.     Mere  and  there 

a  jj;reat  star  peers  euriously  down  tln'(»ut:jli  stune  Idgli  noteli  in  the  river- 

wall,  «)r  Home  far  easeadc,  the  overllow  of  ii  momitain-pool,  llaslies 

whitely  in  the  moonlif-ht  for  a  monu'ut  as  it  plun;;'es  from  one  darliiiess 

t«)  anolluM-.     When  the  etdossal  <;loom  and  ).;randeur  of  the  scene  have 

be«j(un  to  oppress  the  spirit,  tlie  traveler  will  do  well  to  turn  into  his 

berth,    leavinj^   ilireetions    to    be   ealled    as    the   steanu'r    apprnnehes 

(/ll^'^>lltilni.     This  will  be  about  daybreak  ;  and  as  the  steamer  usually 

remains  an  hour  or  tw(t  at  the  wharf,  there  is  time  to  go  ashore  and 

see  the  villa>j;e.     Tlie  best   possible  thinj;  to  do  is  to  elimb  the  roeky 

heij^ht  behind  the  villaiie,  and  wateh  the  sun  rise  in  severe  spleiulor 

over  the  bald  Saj;uenay  hill.s.     Ibit,  before  undertaking  this,  find  out 

from  the  eaptain  cnuf/i/  how  long  the  steamer  is  going  to  stay  on  that 

partieular  trip,  lt>st  it  happen,  as  it  did  onee  to  the  present  writer,  that 

while  you  are  admiring  the  sunrise  from  the  hilltop  the  steamer  depart 

without  y«)U,  and  leavti  you,  perehanee  in  marked  ih\^hnbiil<\,  to  linger 

shivering  in  ('hieoutin)i  till  the  eoming  of  the  next  boat,  or  to  drive 

wildly  over  the  hill-tops  in  a  Juad  Kreneh  (-aiuidian  "  buek-board,"  to 

endeav«)r  to  overtake  th(>  truant  steamer  at    lla   lla  liaii.     When  this 

nushap  befell  me,  with  a  friend  who  was  in  the  sanu'  predieament.  the 

latter  eourse  was  ehosen;  the  drive  was  a  eold  one,  for  our  attire  was 

hnsty  and  ii\formal.  and  a  desperate  one,  for  the  road  was  astouudingly 

preeipitous  and  diversified,  the  Camulian  pony  as  nimlde  ami  erratic  as 

a  goat,  and  the  ''buck-board"  driver  reganlless  of  I'onsecpU'nees  so 

long  as  he  earned  the  prouused  fee.     Hut  the  experience  was  iu)vel  and 

thrilling;  and  we  got  thi're  in  time  to  sit  on  tlu'  wharf  at  St.  Alphonse 

and  smile  at  the  steamt>r  blandly  as  she  eame  in. 

The  town  of  C/iiauitimi,  now  eonneet*'d  with  Hoberval,  on  Lake 
St.  John,  by  rail,  is  a  center  of  the  lumber-trade.  It  is  a  growing 
phuv  and  povssesvses  good  hotel  ucv'onunodations.  Its  trade  is  largely 
in  the  hands  of  the  great  buubering  firm  of  the  Trices,  the  head  of 
which,  l^enafor  Trice,  of  Quebec,  is  known  as  the  "  King  of  the  Sa- 
guenay."  Close  to  the  town  the  Chicoutinii  Uiver  joins  the  Saguenay 
by  a  fall  about  50  feet  in  height.     This  river  is  ati  outlet  of  Lake  K,- 


TIIK   HAOUKXAV.  j^Qj) 

^J^<«m;  and  affordK  capital  fishing  for  trout  and  Balmon.     Tho  name 
hioontimi  Hignifics  dcq,  wattT.  ^  no  name 


rrom  Chicoutlinl  to  the  Mouth. 


y.i,  cleft  l,„.  nr. ,.„  i|,r.,„„l,  tl„.  I.i^-l,  r„.un.„tian  ..lalra,,      lt„  Su 

J...  1.;,.  1        1  •  ginn  HontudeH  are  Hhnnnod 

.i«lr;  ,,;::;;■'■ '"" 'i"""" "'■'  -""».  - »— 

iitii    ginit  depth,  appear  as  l)laek  as  j)iteli    vvitli   i...,.nl..  „i 

,     "  «'l"ti'm  l,o,.„„u.  o|,|,rwsivo  t„  »„rao  visit,,,-,.    A  ,»,1tui-  i„  iho 

'■" ""■il  t..  il,  (1,0  Dead  Soa  is  l,l„oi,.i„..  "    •  ',,„        "" '"  "  """> 

•'F>,  or  drannng-anything,  i„  short,  to  alter  its  morose  .n.ie    TlZZ 

Zpa ';  -H.  t* :  "^  '^'-'-^  "'-^  ^'- "-  ;>-ii'^  "^oi^ 

w  '^■'  "'"■'  '""^  "  J"^*"''''  «"  t''«  banks  of  either 

would  be  preferable  to  one  on  the  banks  of  the  Sa-^uenav  "     The  ,1 
Sa"-ueiiiiv  i>4  .•.....^^,■  .1.,       i  •^•"^  ► 'iniitnay.       1  lie  name 

NV^'Zf,  •';'''.'''''*  .."satisfaetorily  derived  Ircn^  "St.  Jean 
>-/      and  from  the  Indian  Sag.ishseknss,  n.eaning  a  "river  whose 

!r  r  ""■"^"•^•;'  ''^^  '^-^  "••^'""••^'^  *"••  ->-^  '^-^-tion,  l:  r 

-n  -r  '•^"'7"-"  t'"^t  the  village  of  Des  Joachims  on    he  Upper 
Ottawa  IS  popularly  ealled  "Swishaw."  '^ 

I'^'om  Chieoutimi,  as  far  as  the  mighty  inlet  of  /fa   //,    /?      .i 

Japneiout 


their  bare  front.    A  little  way  below  Ila  Ha  Uay 


sly; 
we  pass,  on  the  right 


•"fir 


I 


' 


! 


110 


THE    8A0TTKNAY. 


slioio,  a  cIKT  000  foot  liifjli,  oallcd  Lr  Tnhlcan  from  ltn  Rrcat,  perfectly. 
8ino()tln>(l,  sciuaio  front,  liky  a  caiivaH  stretcluHi  lor  palntiii{?.  J'"artlior 
down  on  tlu»  sanic  sliore  is  l^tatm  Point,  "  where,  at  about  1,000  f«!et 
above  the  water,  a  huge,  loiigli  (Jothie  areh  pves  entrance  to  a  cave, 
in  wliieh,  as  yet,  Die  foot  of  man  has  never  trodden.  Before  tlie  en- 
trance  to  (Ins  bhu-Ii  aperture,  a  «ii'^antie  rook,  like  tlie  statue  of  seme 
(lead  Titan,  onee  stood.  A  few  years  ago,  during  tlu'  winter,  it  gave 
way,  and  the  jnonstrous  statJie  eame  erasiiing  down  through  the  iee  of 
the  Sagueiuiy,  and  left  bare  to  view  the  entrance  to  the  cavern  it  had 
guarded  perhaps  for  ages." 

Cnpe  Trinity  niid  Cnpe  IHeriiity. 

Having  left  beliind  Statue  i'oint  we  ap|»roach  the  dinuix  of  Sague- 
nay  seeiu'ry,  the  twin  ('apes  Trinity  ami  l<:t<;rnity.  These  giant 
cliffs,  the  one  1,('.00  the  other  1,800  ft.  in  heiglit,  watch  each  other 
across  the  black  gulf  of  Kternity  IJay,  a  narrow  liord  wherein  the  soand- 
ing-Iine  must  descend  1,000  ft.  to  rcadi  the  bottom.  The  drcadftd  sub- 
limity  (tf  tliese  promontories,  springing  sheer  from  the  l)lack  depths  of 
the  mysterious  river,  compels  the  reverence  of  the  most  inditFercnt. 
The  northermnost  cape  justifies  its  name  of  ('ape  Trinity  as  we  ap- 
proach it  from  up  the  river  and  observe  that  it  consists  of  three  mighty 
precipices,  each  noo  or  tiOO  ft.  in  height,  piled  one  upoi»  the  other,  and 
fringed  along  (he  beetling  top  with  windblown  |)ines.  On  the  side 
overlooking  Htcrnihi  liau  (lie  aspect  of  the  cape  is  difl'erent  and  vastly 
more  terrible.  The  steamer  roinids  in  so  close  to  the  base  of  the  preci- 
pice that  one  feels  as  if  he  could  toss  a  pebble  up  against  the  wall  of 
rock  ;  but  for  a  (ime  no  one  is  so  hardy  as  to  attempt  it— it  would  seem 
like  sacrilege.  The  noisy  crowd  on  the  steamer's  deck  is  hushed  with  awe 
as  all  eyes  strain  upward  toward  the  dizzy  height  which  seems  (o  reel 
and  topple  above  them,  as  if  it  would  descciul  and  close  the  gap.  When 
the  instinctive  tremor  of  apprehension  has  somewhat  passed  away,  a 
few  of  the  passengers  usually  attempt  to  throw  a  stone  across  the  in- 
tervening space.  As  the  unssile  is  lamiched  vigorously  into  the  air,  it 
seems  as  if  it  would  strike  well  up  on  the  face  of  the  cliff,  but  the  eye 
is  utterly  deceived  by  the  stupciulous  mass  before  it,  and  the  stone  cast 
by  the  most  vigorous  thrower  falls  into  the  water,  as  if  repelled  by  the 
elitf,  before  it  has  traveled  half  the  distance.  Cajjc  Eternity  is  per- 
haps '200  ft.  higher  than  its  terrible  sister,  but  it  deigns  to  slope  a 
little  back  from  the  water  and  to  clothe  its  sublime  pronortions  in  a 


THE   SAOUENAY. 


Ill 


hon  oi  of  Cape  Trm.ty  ti.e  eye  rests  with  delight  on  the  serene  and 
stable  ,.ande,u.  of  its  colosnal  nmte.     lietneon  the  eapes  there  i'a 

1  .MHO  of  Wales  „p  the  r.ver,  one  of  her  heavy  68.po,uuk.rs  was  dis 
charged  near  Cape  Trinity.  "Kor  ti.e  space  of  hal  a  minutror  o" 
e.  the  discharge  there  was  a  dead  silenee,  and  then,  as  if  t  e  r  port 
and  concuHs.on  were  hurled  back  upon  the  decks,  the  e  hoes  came  down 
eras  upon  crash.  It  seemed  as  if  the  rocks  and  erags  had  aT  Zg 
•nto  hfe  under  the  tremendous  din,  and  as  if  each  was  firin^^  H8-po  Id 
ers  full  upon  us  in  sharp,  crushing  volleys,  till  at  htst  the^^-ew  hj:  "'^ 

the  tale  of  mvaded  solitude  f.on.  hill  to  hill,  till  all  tL  distant  mo  mt 
ains  seemed  to  roar  and  groan  at  the  intrusion  " 

Sf  It"!  I  '"''"\'r'r"  ^>«  ''^'"-'y  ^'-  <-'li"«  part  to  make  room  for 
St  Johr,s  By,  whK-h  has  a  little  village  at  its  head,  and  water  shalh.w 

with  trou   and  game.     Then  comes  RirUrc  am  Cananh  with  a  nu  ." 
berof  grnn  and  inhospitable  islands  clustered  off  irs  mlr     I  li," 

0  «o  low  land,  bordorin,  .„e  „,„,uh  „,■  ,h„  »,  Margnc.Ue.  .^H 

he  S„g„„„ay'.  chief  „.n„„„,y  .,„i  „  ,|„,.„,,y  ,„|,„„„  ^^  ;;=     » 

the  mouth  of  the  St     U/utn^^r  on,i  />>•  /  ^  ^  assing 

i?*/V  with  a  littl  Till        TV  ^'''^''  ''^  ""'"^  *«  •^''^'-  ^^''*^«"^ 

to!ethl     and    h  "    "       ""*  '^^^  '''"•     ""''''  ''''  ^'''^^  ^raw  closer 

/^2       ,     .     u      ""'  ''''^'  "^  *"^^'''''"«  ^''^P^'  «f  S'-^nite  called  Fointc  la 
Jiontr  wh.eh  thrusts  itself  out  as  if  to  bar  our  way.     Toward  du"    we 
pass  L'A„«e  a  L»Ea«,  then  7^a,ousac,  an.l  find  onrsehes  on      L  e 
r:^:  :r  "^  ^;ea  Uwrence,  having  descended  frr(^:.Z 
and  wp  t'        ^"  •    r  ^"'^''''"'•''  ^^*-  i«  a  distance  of  135  miles 
"r  b'kiT"  ''  ^^"'S^'^'-^ing  at  Quebec  in  comfortable  time' 


1  i 


112  QUEBEC   TO   THE    MAEITIME   PROVINCES. 

To  the  Maritime  Provinces  by  Rail. 

''''le  favorite  route  to  the  Maritime  Provinces  is  by  the  Inter- 
colonial Railway,  which  runs  down  the  south  shore  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence as  far  as  Rimouslii,  then  turns  south  and  follows  the  valley  of 
the  wild  Metapedia  to  the  junction  of  this  river  with  the  liesligouche. 
Ciossing  the  Restigouche  we  are  in  New  Brunswick.  Another  route 
to  be  described  presently  is  by  steamship  via  Gaupe  and  the  gulf  coa?t.. 
The  three  Maritime  Provinces  of  Canada  are  Nova  Scotia,  New 
Brunswick,  and  Prince  Edward  Island,  and  the  Intercolonial 
Ry.  traverses  them  all.  It  is  a  government  road,  admirably  built  and 
ecjuipped,  an(i  most  moderate  in  its  charges.  It  runs  through  some  of 
the  best  fishing  and  shooting  districts  of  the  continent  and  some  very 
beautiful  landscapes.  The  cars  on  through  express  trains  are  lighted 
by  electricity  and  heated  by  steam  from  the  locomotive.  The  head- 
offices  of  the  railway  are  at  Mondon,  New  Brunswick,  and  information 
may  be  obtained  by  communicating  with  the  Chief  Superintendent  or 
the  General  Passenger  Agent.  The  fare  by  rail  between  Quebec  and 
Halifax  is  $14  ;  return,  $21.  Quebec  to  St.  John,  N.  B.,  $12.45  ;  return, 
$18.70.  From  Quebec  to  Gaspe,  via  the  Intercolonial  Ry.,  $10.30;  re- 
turn, $16.23.     Quebec  to  Moncton,  N.  B.,  $10.70;  return,  $16.05. 

Passengers  for  the  Intercolonial  leave  Quebec  by  the  Levis  Ferry. 
As  the  train  runs  down  the  St.  Lawrence  shore  from  Point  Levis  we 
get  a  last  glimpse  of  the  Falls  of  Montmorency  across  the  river.  Five 
miles  from  Levis  we  pass  Harlaka  Junction,  and  9  miles  farther  St. 
Charles  Junction.  The  next  half-dozen  stations  are  named  for  as 
many  saints.  The  most  important  of  them  are  the  lumbering  village 
of  St.  Michel,  whose  church  contains  some  valuable  paintings,  and  St. 
Thomas,  a  town  of  about  2,000  inhabitants,  the  seat  of  a  convent  and 
of  Montmagny  College.  High  over  the  town  towers  its  great  parish 
church.  At  this  point  there  is  a  fine  though  not  lofty  cataract,  where 
the  Riviere  du  Snd  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  These  falls  are  the 
scene  of  a  thrilling  episode  in  De  Gaspe's  romance.  The  Canadians 
of  Old.''  The  villages  of  Cap  St.  Ignace,  V Islet,  and  Trois  Sauuions 
are  interesting  for  their  connection  with  the  same  romance,  the  scene 
of  which  is  laid  chiefly  about  the  next  stopping-place,  the  ronuintic 
little  village  of  Si.  Jean  Port  Joli,  59  miles  from  Quebec.  The  next 
stoppage  of  importance  is  at  the  thriving  town  of  St.  Anne  de  la  Poca- 
fiere,  the  seat  of  a  large  educational  institution  known  as  St.  Anne's 


op 
8 

a. 


(. 


fl 


OI 

re 
ar 
mi 
Of 
na 


I 


WBBEO  TO  THE  MAKITIME  PRoVWCES.  113 

College,  which  is  attended  bv  Bevenl  h,„.ii..A    .  j 
Agrienltural  College  and  Model  1  ""''"'"•  ""'  *"'  " 

porpoise  «,he,to  ^   ZifoZiZ  '"""""^  """  "•    ^'"^  ""-"""^O 
already  referred  .o.      He^  tS  "iT  nT"""--^'""'  '»"•■  "-» 

the  head  of  .  band  of  his  Zuhi  .        °"™  °'  '''''*™  ""<■"<■.  "' 

Sir  Willia:„  Ph  "'"'  3  *;°T'  "''T'^  ""'  New-Euglanders  of 

.« in  sight  i„st':r.h:e:s:  Tr,  eVr^ofr™*  *-• 

Its  great  church  and  convent  wa«  „  .        -^     °  '"'"'"'■"*'^^"' ^'^^^ 

«-n.  Of  travel  ^••rJTh:ZL'ZT.^Z:Z':  r"'' ''' 
nearest  to  Kamouraska  is  SI  Pa^Aal     Th,       ?  •  Inte,eo,onial 

place  is  Riviere  du  Lmm    Lui  "'"  "»P»"ant  stopping, 

town  is  1,6  ™Is  f  0^  Q  ;,:'■*    ::  "7  "'r^  ''-"Ihed.  "Th^ 

.0  the  upper  wate^of^  h„  w  J  ^  X        ""h"  t'" '°  «° ''''^"''^ 
streams  of  Lake  TemiJZ.rZ ..     /      '  *'  "P'""*"   "•"»'- 

b7.he  Rivi..  d„  r„r.  ;;eti  ::,s:Tt\Th''™'"™*"« 

the  district  in  question  an,l  ^ J     7u    t  ''  "^^'''^  »""«  thr.ujrh 

Canadian  PaeiSc'.rZrjIlte  st"  J^h"""?  **'""  "'■  '^"^ 
Riviere  dn  Loup  is  (;„««„„,  .Ireldvdeltd  jh  I,'  '"""  '''^°"'' 
of  importance  Is  Troi,  pLlt.   ,il  :  ""^  °''="  »"'"™ 

trains  su,p  twenty  minute"  t' r^reshrn.™"  i^""?     "™  *» 

dining-han  of  the  station  one  m.v"t„frs,'  /?  :"  ""  ""•'''P' 
trout.    The  village  stands  on  Irive   of  Z\  '""'  f^^^'-sU 

tradition  in  re^rd  to  thi,  ..„  ,?•  """'  """"='  ""<■  there  is  a 

t-o  river  was  ^^  nllt  sXv  er  :  t  tV".''?'"  ""°'  "-"^ 
«olila,7  asherman  what  he  woSd  tkl  t  7  I  "  "'"'  "*-'*  » 
Pi'toles,"  was  the  reply     "  What  T,  !.  ''  .""  '^""'-     '"^'■'''' 

the  traveler.  "  I,  has  m,n.  "  ,  u  ""'"'  °*  ""'  ""'"  ^  "  "'ked 
Trois  Pistoles"  lid  LT'  f"  l'"  ''""'"™''-  '""•-  "™e  i' 
franc  pieces    '  '  '™™'"-    T'™'  P"'"'-  '»™.  three  ten- 

«4if :::;;:  rn::Tc''e:dt  f  *'••  "■^ '-  ^  --■ 

or  two  from  the's.ation  ^h^L."  s Inr^V"  ™""  '"'""  ""'' 
resort  of  Bio,  situated  „„  /„"„,  ''WnS-Place  is  at  the  summer 

around  Ble  a.  ,  .^  ft"  l^^Z  Tf  th^""'"'  "'■  ""''  """ 
many  cascades,  two  small  ri  "er^  ^o  „,  ,  ■  ^'^  ''''""'='  '''='''™<'.  '■• 
Off  the  coast  is  Bic      land   „  '!     ^^'r""'  *«  "t«rs  of  the  bay. 

nable  fortress  ^  TLl^Ttt  "  f      f  "'f  *"  "'  """''  '°  ""P«^- 
8  """^  °'  "''"BO  for  the  French  navy,     [n  1861, 


■fw 


114 


QUEBEC  TO  THE   MARITIME   PROVINCEa. 


when  the  Trent  difficulty  threatened  to  cause' a  rupture  between  Eng- 
land and  the  United  States,  English  troops  were  landed  at  Bic.  Near 
by  is  U Mel  aii  Afassacre,  where  once  200  Micmac  Indians,  while  asleep 
in  a  cave,  were  surprised  by  their  inveterate  enemies  the  Mohawks. 
The  Mohawks  stealthily  filled  the  mouth  of  the  cave  with  dry  wood, 
then  set  it  on  fire,  and  slew  every  Micmac  that  succeeded  in  making  his 
escape  through  the  flames.  Ten  miles  beyond  Bic  is  the  important 
station  of  Rimouski,  an  incorporated  town  with  a  large  and  growing 
trade,  a  poi)ular  summer  resort,  and  a  port  of  call  for  ocean  steamers, 
where  passengers  and  mail  from  the  Maritime  Provinces  embark  or  land 
as  the  case  may  be.  Rimouski  has  good  hotels,  a  fine  Roman  Catholic 
cathedral,  a  college,  and  important  public  buildings.  In  the  Rimouski 
River  and  lakes  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  town  there  are  excellent 
trout  and  salmon  fishing.  Rimouski  is  the  seat  of  a  Roman  Catholic 
bishop,  and  is  sometimes  called  the  metropolis  of  tlie  Lower  St.  Law- 
rence. Fiv^  miles  beyond  Rimouski  is  ^Si^.  Anaclet,  the  station  for 
Father  Point,  where  outward-bound  vessels  discharge  their  pilots.  A^' 
Ste.  FlaviCy  a  railway  divisional  center  198  miles  from  Quebec,  the 
railway  sweeps  oif  southward  from  the  St.  Lawrence.  There  is  excel- 
lent trout-fishing  in  July  in  lakes  about  Ste.  Flavie,  Presently  it  crosses 
the  famous  fishing  waters  of  the  Aletis.  At  the  station  of  Liltle  Metis, 
5  miles  back  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  one  is  within  easy  reach  of  a  num- 
ber of  excellent  trout  lakes.  The  best  months  for  fishing  in  these 
waters  are  April  and  July,  and  the  hotel,  like  the  guides,  will  charge 
about  a  dollar  a  day.  Two  hundred  and  twenty-seven  miles  from  Que- 
bec lies  the  little  village  of  Sayabec,  near  which  we  strike  the  waters 
of  Lake  Metapedia.  There  ?ve  no  regular  hotels  in  the  village,  but 
board  may  be  obtained  of  some  of  the  villagers,  who  also  may  be  hired 
to  act  as  guides.  There  is  good  trout-fishing  in  the  lake,  in  the  winter 
months  through  the  ice,  and  also  in  June.  The  next  two  stations, 
Cedar  Hall  and  Amqui,  8  miles  apart,  both  afford  excellent  fishing. 
The  village  hotel  charges  are  moderate.  At  Cedar  Hall  the  fishing  is 
in  Lake  Metapedia  and  the  Metane  River,  and  the  best  months  arc 
June,  July,  and  September.  At  Amqui  the  fishing,  both  for  trout  and 
salmon,  is  in  the  Amqui  and  Metapedia  Rivers,  and  the  best  months 
are  June,  July,  and  August.  Fourteen  miles  beyond  Amqui  is  the 
famous  fishing  resort  of  Cansapscal.  Here  there  is  splendid  salmon- 
fishing  in  the  Metapedia  River,  which  flows  close  by  the  station ;  and 
in  Lakes  Angus,  Michaud,  and  Causapscal  the  trout  are  large  and 


ween  Eng- 
Bic.  Near 
liile  asleep 

Mohawks. 

dry  wood, 
making  his 

important 
id  growing 

steamers, 
&rk  or  land 
m  Catholic 
;  Rimouski 
c  excellent 
m  Catholic 
;r  St.  Law- 
station  for 
pilots.  A* 
!  lie  bee,  the 
e  is  excel- 
y  it  crosses 
Aide  Metisj 

of  a  num- 
g  in  these 
v\]\  charge 

from  Que- 
the  waters 
Ullage,  but 
ly  be  hired 
the  winter 
0  stations, 
nt  fishing. 
!  fishing  is 
(lonths  arc 
'  trout  and 
st  months 
qui  is  the 
lid  salmon- 
ition;  and 

large  and 


,11 


QUEBEC  TO  THE   MAMITIME    PRoVIKCIM.  115 

rating  mth  the  A„4m™  Commi«imcr  of  the  IVovlnrc  in  whkl.  tl„. 
brnjo  the  a,  „,  J„„e  .„d  Aug,,,..     B„„,.<,  is  ,„  be  had  h,  p,.ivata 
A»  the  t,-ah,  „h,d»  for  hoara  <!„„„  the  ,„„„„„,  „„||       ,    , 

close  be.,de  the  track,  sometimes  fa,-  .,„,„„,  „„  ,„„:,  „,„  ""™ 
.nd  darts,  „„„  leapin,  „  ,„„  ,.11,  now  swirli;,,  slowl,    ,  ad    'and 
sah„o„.ha„nted  ,,„ol,  no»  h.„gl,i„^,  „„d  ,.ipp|i;,,  „  J  ^^l    2JZ 

ter.     Ihe  „ver  „  f,.,„ge,j  i|,„„^,,,  ,„„,,  „j  .,,  ,. 
ddcrand  moo,e..ooda„d  „,„„„,ai„.a.l, ;  and  the  hill.  „,,!;;;"' 
■najes  ,c  slopes  on  eithef  hand,  elcft  he,c  and  there  h,  the  eo  „e  of 
a  w.,.d,ng  mcntain  st,,.am,  are  clothed  ,.iehlv  wi.h  fore  t,  „(  bhd 

c  a    ers  of    he  mou„ta,„.asl,  bcn-ies  shine  along  the  water's  ed«.  i„ 
v.v,d  ve,™ilion.     Along  this  valle,  tl,o  stations  a,,  fe.  a"d    ar  be 
twecn.     The  nearest  to  Causapseal  is  r,ea.a,U  Bea^h,  and    hen  l^J 
Am„,.(,„„^/,»„.     Passing  Mm  «„„„,  „  ,.„„,^  ,;  J/^l    290 

Kestwouche  the  bcmdar.v  between  the  provinces  of  Quebec  and 
^aw  Br„ns,v,ck.  In  cssing  the  ,.ailway  bridges  he,.  ,ve  get"  ne 
v,ew  from  the  car-windows  up  and  down  the  valley. 

From  ftuebeo  to  the  Maritime  Provinces  by  Steamship 
around  Gasp*  and  the  Gulf  Coast. 

^«»"'«  ,  but  on  every  alternate  Tuesday  morning  a  line  boat  of  the 
Q.^*ec  steamship  Co,npan,  leave,  Quebec  for  G^jL.i  adjacet^t  ports 

and  co,,,,,n,esdow„  the  New  Br,,„s„ick  coast  to  A.V.,/:S  Lee 
to^.m,ner^,le  and   CharhU„.nm  in  Wnce  Edwa,.d  Island    and    o 

^,*»  m  Nova  Scotia,  whc-e  she  arrives  on  Satur,!„v  This  is  a 
comfortable  salt-water  voyage,  lying  nearly  all  the  '"ray  hro.  -h 
waters  that  are  rarelv  vnwh      tj.«         ^  ■^    mrouglx 

about  the  wild  eiafo;X^     -.X""'" ^■''"■-r"'™'"''' 

-t-i--.     -,K  laiC-  lu  uusp«  IS  ^lu;  return, 


M 


\ 


i 


|H 


116  QIIRBKC   TO  Tiri<;    MARniMK    I'Il()VI\0K8. 

fift.     Tho  fHre  to  IMctoii  Im  |10;  return,  $24.    Those  raton  Inclmlo 
iiiciiIh. 

Tlio  voyam*  down  tho  Ht.   liiiwn.ni'o  an  far  hh   Fnfher  Point  hitH 
hocn  nliMMuly  doHoiihrd      A  littlo  way  \wy^m^\  in  th«>  whaling  vllhij^o  of 
Afrtis,  Hitiiatfd  riglit  op|Mmltt»  the  Htrangcly  nhapcd  Maiiii-oiia^ian  I't-nlri- 
Hiilii,  which  lillH  up  tho  HpiioiouH  l)ay  at  (ho  inoiithH  of  tho  ,i,'roat  Labrador 
rivors,  MuiiiooiuiKaii  and  Oiitanlo.     Iloyoiid   Motirt  is  tho  hinidiiK'  and 
huiiboiin^'  vina^oof  Mafnnr,  whoso  hroad,  Handy  hoaoh  nifnnU  deliKlit- 
fid  opportunilios  for  l)athin-t.     Iloro  IIowh  in  the  Matano  Uivor,  fainouH 
for  itH  tn»iit  and  siihnon.     Far  olT  to  tho  Honthwost,  rising,'  out  of  tho 
hoart  of  tho  (iaspo  wihh'rnoHs,  wo  noto  tho  h»fty  HUiiiiidtH  oaUod  tho 
('apH  of  Matano.     Tlio  St.  Lawronoo  hore  in  over  JO  indos  in  width,  but 
it  luirrows  aj-ain  to  85  ndloH  as  we  approaoli  Cufte  Chntfe,  ',i\\  nulos  oast 
of  Matano.     At  ('apo  Cluitto  is  an  important  lij^htliouMo.     Near  lioro 
tool*  plaoo,  in  Juno,  HS'H),  a  naval  l)attlo  botwocn  tlio  Knf/lish  ship  Abi- 
gail  and  a  Fronoh  war-ship  ooinniandod  by  Kinory  dc  Caon,  whioh  ro- 
Hultod  in  a  vil-tory  for  tho  Kn},dishnian.    Tho  Vnpvt  is  nainod  for  Kyniard 
do  (llni.sto,  (Jovernor  of  Dieppe,  who  in  10o«  sent  out  an  oxplorinj,'  and 
colonizing'   oxpodition    whioh  was  led   by  Pont^iavd  and    Lescarbot. 
Twolvo  or  1ft  nulos  eastward  «;>  round  Capo  St.  Anne  to  the  village  of 
.SY.  Atnu'  r/r.s-  Moufn,  the  oontor  of  (>xtensive  mackerel,  cod,  and  halibut 
fisheries.     In  tho  adjoining  river,  tho  St.  Anne,  trout  and  salmon  lit- 
oiiilly  swann.     A  few   nulos  back   from  the  coast  rise  the  lofty  St. 
Anne  Mountains,  whoso  chief  peak  reaches  tlio  height  of  '1,000  feet. 
Those  mountains  are  a  spur  of  tho  great  (Jaspesian  range  called    the 
Shick-shock  or  Notre  Dame  Mountains.     The  old  chronicler  Lalemant 
in  KMS  wrote  as  follows  :  "All  those  who  come  to  New  France  know 
well  enough  tho  mountains  of  Notre   Dame,  because  the  pilots  and 
sailors  being  arrived  at  that  part  of  the  great  river  which  is  opposite 
to  ihose  high  mountains,  baptize  ordinarily  for  sport  the  new  passen- 
gers,  if  they  do  not  turn  aside  by  some  present  tho  inundation  of  this 
baptism  whioh  is  made  to  flow  plentifully  on  their  heads." 

From  Cape  St.  Anne  to  Point  PImrcusc,  a  distance  of  28  miles,  the 
coast  is  but  a  wall  of  towering  cliffs.  Eleven  miles  beyond  is  Cape 
Mafldchuue  at  the  mouth  of  the  Riviere  Magdelaine.  All  this  region 
has  furnished  themes  for  the  wildest  legends.  The  name  Pleureusr  is 
suggestive  enough  in  itself.     The  superstitious  sailors  and  fishermen 

of  these  haunted  coasts  toll  of  the  piteous  lamentations  they  hear 

Le  BmUlard  de  la  Magdelaine — which  they  ascribe  to  a  damned  soul 


include 

nut  hitM 
illiigo  of 
I)  I'oniii- 
>alirH(lnr 
liiiK  und 
iluli^lit- 
faiiioiiH 
t  of  the 
lied  the 
(1th,  but 

iloH  OHHt 

>ai'  Ihto 
lip  Abi- 
\k'\\  iT- 
Gymard 
itif^  and 
■foarbot. 
11  ago  of 
halibut 
ion  lit- 
)fty  St. 
W  feet, 
ed  the 
ilemant 
i  know 
)ts  and 
ppositc 
passen- 
of  this 


les,  the 
3  Cape 
region 
'eu«e  is 
lennen 
hear — 
d  soul 


Il 


Gaspe  Residents  returning  from  Church. 


i 


QUEBEC   TO   THE   MARIxmE   PROVINCES.  U7 

seeking  to  tell  its  torments,     ft  is  usually  supposed  to  be  the  soul  of  a 
murderous  wrecker— for  ^nm^  nf  n.„    ij  ^  . 

reout»,fon  ,=  Ki    ,,         .  '  "'''  «»'P«»i«"  "reekera  earned  a 

reputation  as  black  as  tliat  which  clings  to  tlie  wreckers  of  tKr  w  J 

coast  0,  Newfoundland.    Others  againrof  a  n,„  e  ecdcsTsti  J  turl  o 

.n..g.nat,„„,  declare  that  the  wailings  are  the  pcnite,^"rof  a 

pnest  who  „i„M,,,„ffereJ  a  little  one  to  die  unbapti  J     The  It 

piteous  of  the  tales  is  that  of  a  wreck  on  this  iron  coast  in  which  It 

one  person  eau,e  to  shore  alive.    This  was  a  baby  boy,  who"a^^cry,n' 

all  n.ght  m  the  horrible  desolation,  and  died  because  n^  help  can  ef 

probable  explanation  of  the  weird  voices  mav  bo  found  in    he  wave 

oometo  C-Woiw,  an  nnportant  settlement,' and  the  scat  of  a  lar^e 
branch  o    the  great  ashing  arm  of  Robin  &  Co.,  which  has  ts  held 

S^XoTtll  st°r""  "'.  ":'  *»^-«.™-«".es  calhd  .* 
J5cyiia  ot   the  St.  Lawrence."     Here  lies  the  villa<»e  of  Pnn^  r«.- 

Which,  with  the  neighboring  settlements  of  ol^^,  cJZ.Zn^ 

Sons     A,  tins  point  „c  may  be  said  to  pass  on.  of  the  gates Tf  "ht 
■St.  Lawrence,  which  is  here  96  miles  wide.    On  the  cape  stLds  a  li-h, 
louse  of  stone  112  ft.  high.     Due  N.,  like  a  stern  se„«rel  ^ua  tg 

middle  of  the  river's  giant  mouth.    The  isle  is  no  less  than  11^  mil.! 

in"! ir  th'e  '  ""'.  ■""  'r  "™  '"-'  "^  -^'**.  °i'pe.™ 
Within  T     "  P""'""'-  "'"  °'"°"»  <^™«1.  *<!  soil  Sterile 

i>land ,  but  these,  having  come  to  the  verge  ot  starvation  were  latelv 
removed  ,„  the  mainland  and  kindlier  surroundings.     N^wX  „„t 

Iw  ,      Tl     ,  '"""«  ''■'"'°°'  """  'h"  i'lonl  streams  abound 

with  trout  and  salmon,  r,s  do  its  barrens  with  feathered  game 

Six  miles  beyond   Cap  des  So,ie..,  we  reach  the  vast  proiectln- 
promontoryo,  Cape  G«sp€,  which  thrusts  out  into  the  (Mfrf"f 

i;r?.;  '°"'™='  ™p"'  •"  '^"<'»'»-  «w  «■ « h "«  ^L 

itltt   n'dilr  ""l'.'?™"  ."'  '-^  """'^  "-•'  peninsula,  Tscrl™ 
fom  the  Indian  word  "Gasepion,"  applying  ,o  ,  lonely  detached  ,x,ck 
1"0  ft.  high  which  oaee  rose  out  of  the  waves  off  the  e«r...,.i,v  ofTle 
cape,    irom  its  resemblance  to  a  statue  the  ««;eal  ed  this  i^k 


]18 


QUEBK!   TO   TIIK   MAKITIME    PKOVINCES. 


ii 


/..   link.      The  ,.e„,oIo88  battering  of  «,„r„„  h„,  ,( ,,      ^  „ 

haf  S,  of  („pe  fi„,„«  ,.i,e,  „„  p,„„,„„,„       j  ^,  «  ' 

between  them  lie»  the  deep  inlet  „f  «»//,„„,  „|,i„h  „^,"  'J°f 
."laml,  and  keeps  a,  its  head  the  secure  harbor  of  gI'I",  " 

r„„7,?  ""  ""  *".  ''"■'■  ""  ■"""'  °"  »"'  rii-""  '!«  Porilou.  shore,,  of 
,„h         ",'"•.  "■""■"  "'"  ""'  P""  f"™-ly»l.o„  the  wind  drlw' 

I  «:t  i„h  fl  °-'^'"  :'""■'' "'  *^  '^"^  ■'  ">'■ """"« °f  ^''"^'- 

rhen  the  bay  narrow,,  and  round  the  natural  breakwater  of  C; 
«eh  we  enter  .he  harbor  of  G..p,  Town.    Thi»  is  „  gro'in!  phee 
h    he„d.p,„rters  of  i,n„,ense  cod  and  maekorel  fineries  and  the  eh  ei 
mvn  on  the  whole  Great  (iaspe  reninsnla.    It  has  between  MO  and  900 

.nln,bj^^a„.s,a„,  usnobleand  uni,p,escen.,v,„,atch,esss„m„.erdlT 
and  the  magmfieen.  tront  and  sahnon  fishing  of  the  adjacent  M 
an,i  D„rt.„o„,km.er.,  have  attracted  the  attention  of  traveZ  t"! 
town  ,s  possessed  of  a  comfortable  hotel,  the  0.lf  H^^  t  flsW 
opera„ons  are  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  the  g,.at  hrn,  of  Le  fcuS 
l!ros.  Iron,  „s  wharf  a  fortnightly  mail  stean.or  runs  to  K^^ZZ 
B«„  on  the  coast  of  «,W»,..  Its  piers  are  thronged  with  scl  ler" 
and  an  occasional  whaling.ship.     The  surrounding  fields  are  Zfu 

»y  boung.     On  a  lull  overlooking  the  town  are  the  guns  of  Fori  Ram 

ribicJ:;::  ""''-".r'-"'"  '"""''*°" ''-  -«'"°  ■■ad.nad:  Lt : 

e.able .advances  n,  cv.h^at.on,  perhaps  from  intercourse  with  the  Norse 
ucieuth    t«eltth,  and  thirteenth  centuries.     In  1634  Oartier  landed 

::r  ,r;:  iT".  r'V" '""  ""-^ "'  "-^  ^'"^  °'  ^^^nZ^T, 

of  20    f-         ;'°  "'«/™'-*-'«  upon  it.     In  162V  a  Fr  nch  tt^H 

o    20  sinps  of  war  and  transports,  carrying  emigrants  and  „  gre, 
quant,  y  of  sto.es  for  the  colony  at  Quebec,  was  driven  by  a  storm  to 
take  sbelter  in  Gaspe  Ilasin.     Hither  they  were  followed  by  .^111 

o^thVivnir'i  •"?"";  """^ "'° """" '''"'''  ^"  "•' ""-'  - 

°a den  w  th  eli  "'  ""■'""  ""'  "'  ""  """''  """  *'"""  ««  °*<-. 
la.len  w,th  captives  and  treasure,  back  to  England.  In  1760  fiasni 
was  taken  by  Admirable  livim.      i.  „      •■         .  "  "o",  "aspo 

J  ^luiuii.ioit  ti>ioii.     At  one  time  the  oen  nsulq  of  Ca., 

z:z::r:'  ""■' "  7r°  '""•'""'■•  -^  °-"^  ■"*  '>■-  -f 

account  ol  its  scanty  population,  was  soon  reanncxed  to  Quebec, 


QUEBEC   TO   THE  MARITIME   PROVINCES.  119 

^schylus  called  "  a  3*^0.0^  to   hi  ,•     i^'r"  "^^^'^^  ^hJch 
stern,  and  was  Por..;  .^JTSL  ^X^TT^^ 

Beach  and  Soutl/L  ,/  p  oi^^.f^  *"!,  ^^"'^'"^^^  '^d  Xorth 
rising  behind  the  vi^::^toX  ^^  7  V'-T''  ^^^^' 
agates  upon  its  bleak  red  slopes  Ly  bf  h.d  ^  T  '""''  ''"' 

in  eastern  Canada  The  mo75  'J^  ^  .  ''"'  ""^  *''"  ^"^'^*  ^^«^« 
sula  lies  Just  off  the  v  l^  ^  P^r  Thit""'"V'  ^'^  ^''^^^  P^"^"' 
Rock.  Itisthusdeseribed  bvMr  J  GAP  '"/^"^^^^  P«'ce 
Canada  :  ^       "  '^-  ^'  ^-  Creighton  in  Picturesque 

endX'iagh  tlfe'^cfSs'ofMlTj^^^^  ^f  -^  «-  to  the 

ture  Island,  2  miles  out  a  sea  co  linS  thoT!?  '"^'  ''^^  °^  ^°"'^^<^"- 
Denys,  that  once  there  was  no  bre^k  in  ..,  "'^''"  *''^'^'*'""'  S'^'^n  by 
Jich-huod  conglomerate,  where  tKirnnS'K'  P«''P^"d'«"''^r  walls  of 
bright  olives  and -ravsonimo«Vl  ^^  '^"'''^"^  «f  sandstone,  the 

vvhfte  quartz,  andSp.otn"rstab'o^fT'  t'"''f''  P"^P'««  «^  J-P^r! 
against  brilliant  blue  sky  S  erne  ildsef  ^''"'^  *'^°''*'^^'''  ^"'^'  ^^^^-'^ 
tion  of  color;  but  the^wTves    wUh  unh.'nl         *  ''""'^''""^''  "^'"b''^^' 
ocean,  beat  fiercely  on  this  marvHm  «  ""^'"'^«"  f  «'eep  from  the  open 
down  the  three  grand  arehe   Denys   aw      ^  '"^*''''  "''"^^^^  b^«<^'«d 
CJhamplain  savs  there  was  mil vn^!     ^"     ^^^^^  ^^^^''^  before  Denys 
Bloop  under  ful/S  TopJ  ^^ou^h  '  ?/''  ""'  '"P  «"*^"^'h  for'a 
opening,  40  or  50  ft.  hiX     MaLv  >L/k  ^'T^*  ^''"'"'^  '«  ^ut  one 
which  theinimensearch  at  theoS.. irV!';  *^'  ""^'^^^  «'''^s»'  with 
dawn  one  morning  about  forty  ye  rs,  "^!v^*^^  '''I'  ^«"  .^^«t  before 
great  monolith  that  formed  iti  abutmS'     S      f  ''  t  "^«""'»«nt  the 
sea  are  doing  their  work  •    hev  havl T  ^'1^  '*"*^  '''"''^'^>'  wind  and 

than  a  coupl^  of  f eet  in  diameir  I-n.f  ?"  'Tl^''^  '"^P^^^''''^'  »«*  '"ore 
the- eclipsing  wave-crestfrhc  md  f.^l  °\r  "fJ'  '^'  ''''^'^"''  ^^'^  «« 
beach  where  you  can  land  aUow  idl  l  /^',  """^^  '^'^«  ^^  «  tiny 
anation  to  troid  on  the  pH,^  Tj±  Tnd  i^  ™  ^7-  ^.*  '^  "^«  '^  P^^^" 
whose  oyery  roll  tosses  up  mil  ion 'of  nehhlP  '^  ^  f ""'"°  '"''^'  ""^^'^ 
rarest  jewels.     .Alyriads  of  fnilTl      f  bWes  for  the  sun  to  turn  into 

distanci  looks  so'hid  aL  wea  h^  r  worn  t/'''  ''  *'"  '"'^'^'  ^'"^  '-^^  ^ 
besque  in  richest  velvet  InThh  litflT  '  I  appearance  of  an  ara- 
sight  of  everything  but  he  wa  e  an  the  ^k^'M"  ^^  '^''  ^''^  f'«™ 
cries  of  the  countless  birds  St  tenJL.^  ^'  '''?'  ""^  ^'«""d  but  the 
of  the  surf  as  its  thundero  ,s  b  ss  2A  •''^'  ■'^^'''  ^"^  *^"  '""«'« 
est  treble  of  clattering "e^blt'lS"  S  "-^'^r'  '"^""^-^  ^  *-^- 
d..am  td.  the  great,  green  rollers,  thl^^g^wlSS' a^^l^^^ji;;? 


ill 


'  Hi 


''I 


I'! 


I! 


fi 


I'  i 


120 


QUEBEC   TO   THE   MARITIME   PROVINCES. 


^  Everywhere  else  the  roc  Lfstr^H?t  f^l^  ""f  '^'^  '''"'^■ 
of  'm  ft.  At  its  western  end  if  T?  ?™  '^'^'^  '^''*^'  *«  *  l^eight 
straight  and  clear<.u  a  he  prow  of  In'L*"  "  ^'^""  "^  ^^^-^P  ^^^ 
singularly  resembles  in  outlne  if  Iv  ""  .^'"'".^n^e  ironclad,  which  it 
long  and  SOO  ft.  wide  Its  "n  is  co7p  1h  ""i°'""  "'^  •'"^^^''^^  ^^OO  ft. 
visible  because  of  the  in  n  eS  flocks  n?  r"  '  ^'""''^  ^"*  *^»^  '«  barely 
in  serried  order.  Each  Sinhabi  s  it/nJ'^^f '  ''•"^"'^  ^'™''-^«  '"^^S^d 
morants  never  mingle  wS The  S^^^^  *'^«  ^lack  cor- 

graceful  terns  keeiftheir  o Jn  n lacis  ^  f  Jnl  '  "''"'  ^"""*^*^  ^"^  ^^e 
ders  into  the  ranks  of  another  n bo"  thlL"^  P'esum,)tuous  bird  wan. 
and  flapping  of  wings  tHriveawav  th^^^^^^^  f  tremendous  .creaming 
incessantly,  circling  high  "vci  The  chon^  t',;  ^-^'^  '^'^^^  ^°d  go 
deep  to  seize  their  prey"  thev  swnnn  „  ''!,  ""[  ^^''""-  ^'^^  Plunging 
far  out  on  the  ban)  s;  \hov  ?ol  oTtLTlJr^-^^  '^^  ^'^'''  ^'  ^'^^hor 
packers  are  at  work  ;tev  flit  r  ?e  beach  where  the 

silvery  mocrHght  th^  fisherme     ^o^  'nouest'of  ?>  T  "?^"  '"  *»'« 

storm  their  shrieking  is  ahnos.  Irntr/hl:^  itl  t  S  fo^3.^ 

AmeLlfp -vX^atfthTB  ^T  "^  ^^^^'  ^^^'  ^^^^^  ^  «-*  of 
Which  two^f  ttrelt^'rwl^^^^^^^^^  ^"^  ^"^--'  ^" 

between  Perc6  Rock  in,]  fl,.  /       •        ?  '*^^'"^'"  P^^^^^  now 

Despair.    This  i,  a  ™„e  of  JrccI,,  ardTe^H ""'"'"'''  "'"  '""" 
times  when  wind  and  ,p«  ,™      !   .    T.         «*emen  say  tliat  some- 

fai  wave.,  r„l  n„  L  ,  11,  k     ' ""™  """^^  "  '''""'  °'  "^l- 

quiet  again  and  the  sea  lies  still  »„rf  -„■!•       °!,''"""'°-     Then  all  is 
eare,iesK,.hin*C„.,vi;^"    "ITS;    t?  """" 'T  '"^ 

i-o™.  .fc;«;:/„Xl;  *;  "i^;f ;•"  """se  of  *.;«.,  a„d  i.„„„d 

wreelted  with  the  oss  Ifal    „„  h      .      '™'"'™->'l'iP   Coiborne   was 
uejond  Pomt  .liaijuei-eau  lie  the  quiet  and  lovely 


nd  palaces, 
eal. 

to  a  height 
sharp  and 
J,  which  it 
id  1,600  ft. 
is  is  barely 
ies  ranged 
black  cor- 
ts  and  the 
bird  wan- 
screaming 
le  and  go 
plunging 
at  anchor 
ft'hcre  the 
en  in  the 
ey  rctu-n 
?ked  mass 
During  a 
)r  miles. 

a  fleet  of 
gence,  in 
sses  now 
ft.  high, 
ne  miles 
'und  the 
;he  Eng- 
to  Cape 
It  some- 
f  dread- 
spectral 
ng  ago. 
?  to  his 
nd  roar 
n  all  is 
)m  the 
Gra  d 
round 
le   was 
of  the 
lovely 


QDEBEO  TO  THK   MAEITIME  PBOVINCEB.  121 

arrires  on  Saturday;  tliese  nl»,..,  „fii  .  'I  ''.,'"''  ^"'■^'  «^m  she 
.no.„er  route,  and'he,"  „"  T  11  a  IhonT,  ""  '"  ™""""°"  "'"■ 
-e  ..aee,  „.  iute-est  a,„„,  .,e  ot;  ^  o  1^0:,:;:'"'  *"" 

.mpo,.,a„t  fl»hn:;r;o,a?r  r,  Ttr  """■"="  ^"'"">-  - 

locally  Paspv  Jacks      H„!.  !"'°"  ."""  '"'■ab.tants,  „ho  are  nicknamed 

*e  i.,,z'z':)  t":'vV:!e' :  ra^'p^^i'i'^' """  "••'■  '- 

jasper  known  as  (iasp«  pebbles     The  Wh  "^  "pcc.mens  of 

breakwater  i,.  the  ror^'ofrid^eltt.ri'r 'I,''' f  "''''-' 
tages  of  the  village  crown  fhp  nUff      ,  ""     ^''^  *""*  ««*- 

the  .reat  red  ^.^^Z^^:'^^::,  'Cl'.T  "T " 
ratntioncd.     The  headauartor,  nf  n  •     „  ™7  ^""^"^  &  Co.,  so  often 

«.els,e„uersey;  Tn^^ri':  s' rth^irrrfhls'^J'th'  '''  "" 
are  required  to  live  in  single  blessedness.  PaTpebL  tldf  """ 
P=rtant  post  „1  the  Le  Boutilliers,  and  its  ^r  y  e«„rt  of  h  ""  ""' 
m  TO  ue  to  over  «250  oi¥)     u  ""■' '•""J' "^^P""  of  flsh  amounts 

Jlfe".pcdiarLlhTZe2l(lT     7,"""^  '"  ""^  Intercolonial  at 

Beyond  Paspebi  e  neTthe  2  Hf  th'eB"''  "  '"'"""  °'  '""  "■'"'■ 
tie  town  of  ku,  Oartkl  ITT       .        Bonayenture  Klver,  is  the  lit- 

loyalists.   NeT,  Z^lTr   ""  r^'"  '"  "«°  "^  ^"""^  ^^Pire 

and^..  .,.r::;x:rrr:t:rtr^r^"'r" 

Mar  a  flows  in  tho  /a,.««^  i-^  ,.  ^^^^^^  to  L>alhousie,     Near 

».os.  *a„onVLw  o,s  inr:r;ir  Hr.r  "*  -'-  ^""^ »'  "■« 

Generals  of  Canada  have  thdr  fill    t  lod  "     L^hT      ™  "7'°°'- 
summer  resort  of  thp  Pp;„.        t     •      ^    '    ^  ^^'^^  ""'^^  *  favorite 

p.«i.ent  AK^uraL"  fr:re::rMrLreas.":'V"  "r-- 

».tebed  o^e?;  tt  VTc'k^rCd"  "'  ^  '""  '""^^  " 
vent,  and  exten'sive  herring,  "her  esr;rn-,  V ,'"«"  ""- 
we  reach  the  fertile  y.l]»r  .ff  ,1,    v        „  '"  '"'y'""'  Carleton 

ice-cold  watir  de  ce>,di„!  f  ""',f  o"™"'  "i™'-  a  beautirul  stream  of 
for  their  ^^and       etfb     TJ      .T""'"'-"-    "»  "»"'  ■»  f«™ns 

by  an  American     rZ—      .  '  ''"""™'"  ""^  """ "  ''^ased 

J,  ,    ■J"'!."""'-    Continmng  for  a  few  miles  ov„  .  .,„,.  ,.  .,„_ 
reach  the  Eseuminn/.  »!..„_  ..  ■   ..  ..  ..ingv  or  lulls  we 

ii-«.ummac  Kiver,  a  smaller  stream  than  the  Nouvelle,  which 


^^^wl^yW,*! 


122 


PROVLNOE  OF  NEW  BRUNSWICK. 


contains  trout  of  unusual  size.  This  may  be  fished  by  arrangement 
with  the  warden  of  the  river  at  Escuminac  station.  A  little  beyond 
lies  the  mouth  of  the  Rtstigouche,  and  either  at  Mctapcdia,  CampbelUon, 
or  Dnlhousie,  we  may  bring  to  an  end  our  journey  in  this  direction! 
The  fare  by  rail  from  Mctapedia  station  to  Oarleton  is  $1.62 ;  return, 
$2.81  ;  to  New  Richmond  and  return,  $3.81 ;  to  Paspebiac  and  return' 
$6.31.  ' 


I     !: 


i 


PROVINCE   OF  NEW  BRUNSWICK. 

New  Brunswick  is  first  of  all  a  lumbering,  ship-building,  and  fishing 
province.  She  also  has  heavy  agricultural  interests,  and  her  great  min- 
eral  wealth  is  beginning  to  find  development.  In  shape  the  province  is 
nearly  a  square,  the  seaward  sides  of  which  are  washed  respectively  by 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  center  of  the 
province  is  yet  for  the  most  part  a  wilderness,  threaded  and  dotted  in 
all  directions  with  lakes  and  brooks  and  rivers,  and  abounding  with  fish 
and  game.  Till  about  a  century  ago  New  Brunswick  formed  a  portion 
of  Nova  Scotia  or  the  old  Acadian  territory.  In  178^,  on  the  influx  of 
the  United  Empire  Loyalists,  it  was  erected  into  a  separate  province. 

The  history  of  Canada  may  be  said  to  open  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
coast  of  this  province,  not  very  far  from  where  we  entered  it  in  our 
descent  by  rail  from  Quebec.     It  began  on  June  30th,  when  Cartier 
sighted  Cape  Escuminac  on  the  gulf-shore  of  New  Brunswick.    Coming 
from  the  bleak,  forbidding  coasts  of  Newfoundland,  which  he  deemed 
to  be  Cain's  portion  of  the  earth,  this  harsh  corner  of  Acadia  appeared 
to  Cartier  a  paiadise.    The  wide  water  in  which  he  found  himself  was 
MirmmeJd  Bay.     Not  discovering  the  Mlramichi  itself,  whose  mouth 
lay  hidden  close  at  hand,  behind  long  ranges  of  sand-spits,  chains  of 
islands,  and  intricate  shoals,  he  landed  on  the  banks  of  a  lesser  river, 
n,>    identified  among  the  thousand  such  that  overlace  that  region  with 
their  silver  courses.     This  stream  rippled  shallow  over  its  gleaming 
pebbles,  and  swarmed  with  trout  and  salmon.     The  woods  about  were 
of  pine  and  cedar,  elm  and  oak,  birch,  willow,  fir,  maple,  and  tamarack, 
and  the  sailors'  hearts  rejoiced  over  such  unlimited  possibilities  of  ships. 
Where  the  woods  gave  back  a  little  sp?tcc,  the  ground  was  covered  with 
wild  fruits.    Great,  melting  strawberries  betrayed  themselves  to  the  lips 
by  their  red  gleams  piercing  the  grass.     The  bronze-green  blackberry 
thickets  were  heavy  with  their  yet  unripened  fruitage,  and  the  wild  pea 


r 
ivJ 


:? 


provin(;e  of  new  bkunswick.  123 

i™.n.nele<l  hi,  f„„,,,„„s  „i.h  1„  rope,  „f  ,„„.„,„  .„,,  p,,,^. 

.iunu.,al,lo  Nock,  streamed  pa,t  and  darkmcd  th„  air  fh"  , 

ay  awak.  a.  „i,.„t  a„.,  ,i.e„„,,  „,,,  wondc,.  .„  .,...  ,    i  f     .,„"::' 

w^,  ilZ  pT""  "",  "'"*•  *'"■'■  "'■'"'°-=™-  --'■ "»-  X' 

11,   r   ™''  """  ""■'"  "'I""'  "'^'-l.''  »''""«  'he  >■'!'-■■'>  of  the 
1K.0  .     A,„l  .he  |K.o„lo  p„».o,,i„g  tl,i,  land  were  friendly  an^  fa 

Beanng  n,„H,wa,.<I  Carter's  woaihe,-.,l„rke„ed  sails  were  soon  wat. 

."g  h,n,  over  the  faires.  bay  his  eyes  had  ye.  rested  npon      Zvlte': 

jere  clear  an    green,  and  searco  rippled  nnder  the  ,  eep  s„    o"^ 

J«  y.    No  roe  ft,  no  shoals,  b,u  here  and  there  a  darlir™    sZd 

asleep  on  the  sleepy  tide.    On  either  hand  a  long  reeedhurCe  „f    ft 

-Lores  drawing  closer  together  toward  the  wo's    am  'I    ,g  '  '^S 

^ITlhe'^r':  T-  ,'°  ^~'  "■"  ""'  """"=-  '" - 
Cha  e„„  ,C  I  :  """  """'■''  "''  """  ^»'''-  '"""'^^J  "  Bale  de, 
l^na  ears.    Here  they  passed  some  days  verv  sweetlv  in  indolent  ex 

P  oratton  ,n  trading  with  the  hospitable  Miemacs,  in  feas.i^!  on  LaT 

tniy  barte  ed  the  clothes  they  wore  for  trades  and  trinkets  Then 
Cartter  sailed  on  to  the  north  to  discover  the  St  Lawrence  The  fir  ? 
...en,pt  at  settlement,  however,  was  in  the  extr^J    "n    west  of  t  e 

of  Vew  fZTT^'  '"       '  ""  "'"  ""^"''"  ""'"ig^tions  of  French, 

reft  lilt ol""""""'  """  °'  *"  ""'"•■"  Empire  Loy,alis.s,  w,ll  be 
iticuea  to  m  othei"  connections.  ^  ,         ^^ 


The   Restigouche. 
The  name  Restigouche  signifies  the  five^ngered  rivcr-so  called 
ucbee  and  x\ew  Brunswick  like  the  fingers  of  an  open  hand      Sf 
but  difficult  of  access  on  account  of  its  almost  continuous  ranids  ami 

^^«m  has  had  .ts  name  providentially  condensed  by  the  lumberman  into 
Jotn  kedgcwick.     The  cour^n  of  fi,«  ^>    .■        /  .  ""«^"ndn  mto 

bv  falls  or  imn^=   V  Kestigouche  is  nowhere  broken 

by  falls  or  unpassable  rapius;  and  its  strong,  full,  unflagging  current 


lL>f 


TIIK    KKSTUJOtrcllK. 


mnkort  it  u  innyriiilloi'iu  stiviim  for  llio  onno)'  iimii.  Itrt  Hiiliiioti.(iHlit>iioi« 
HIT  riiiniMl  tlio  wiM'M  ovi'i',  ami  iiir  for  ilu>  umM  part  in  tlio  lunidri  of 
llMliiii',' i'IiiIm  iiiatif  ii|)  of  woaliliv  4'atiailiaii  ami  Aim-iicaii  aii^,'lorH. 
Tlu'  l{i<sii^.uii'lu'  Maliiuiii  is  rt'uiarKaliic  for  iiin  .^i/.(>.  Jh-  is  a  very  tlif- 
r««i«'ii(  llsh  from  his  follnwH  of  \,/>ini,f,(if  iuu\  .\tir,iinir/ii.  Ih>  iloos 
iiioiv  of  his  liKhliiijt  umh>r  wnlcr,  aii<l  iisiiallv  talirs  tlii<  tty  wlioii  it  in 
la-low  tli«'  SIM  Ian',      l|<>  Ims  lufii  mntic  tho  siihjirl  of  a  lniuhl  artido 


III  ScrihiHM's  Maita/iiif  lor  Mav,  IHSS.     ( 


■  i^aiilic  ami  iiiai^iiili«*oiil  as  he 


is,   ho  is  «M|»iici..iis  ill   his  appolilc,  ami   rin|iuMilly  wlu.|i  hi'  is  most 

las  (|iiit('  t'rli|is('(|   tliat  of  llu'  iiolth' 
i>  roiisoli'  tilt'  tlisap|)oiiiti'(| 


waiitt'il  he  is  not  tht'r»<.      Mis  fame  1 
l!t'sli,i;om'ln>  trout,  who  is  alwavs  on  Iniml  | 


llsht'inian.       'I'lic    Ivillin^'   of   a    Hcsli^'oudif    salnioii    is    thus    vivi.lly 
(Ifsi-rilu'il  in  liu'  ariirlc  just  ivlViicti  to: 


W 


«•    pass    around    two  curves   in    the  river  ami   liml 


the    lieati  of    I  lie  pool 


ourselves  at 


the  sti'enm,   about    'Jo  ft. :  llie   eiim'iit 


Kirst  east.   tt»  the    riv:lil,  sliaij^ht    across 


carries    tlie   !ly   down    with    a 


sciiiieireular  sweep  until  it   couies   in   line  with   the  how  td'  tl 


com!    east,   to  the  left,  straii'ht    across   the  siieaiu.   with   the    san., 
motion;  the  semicircle  i.s  completed,  and   the  ll.v  han;is  <piiverin|j;  for  a 


le  eaiioe. 


le 


few  seconds  at  the  I 


•west    point   id'  the  arc.     Three  or  four  ft.  of  I 


ari'  drawn  from  (he  reel.     Tliird  i-asl,  to  tl 


ine 


u'  ii_-ht  ;  fourth  I'ast,  to  th 


es, 
le 


left.  Then  a  littU'  more  line.  And  so,  wiiji  widening  halfeiieh 
llie  water  is  covered  ,i;radiiall\  and  vcrv  carefully,  until  at  len'.;th  tl 
auuler  has  as  much  line  out  as  his  two-handed  rod  can  lift  amfs 
.  .  .  This  seenu»  like  a  very  rej:;ular  and  .s«>niewliat  mechanical  ,.,„- 
eei'din;';  as  one  dcscrilus  it.  but  in  the  pi'rformancc  it  is  rendered 
lutcnscly  iiitcrestiini  lu  the  knowlcduv  that,  at  any  moment,  it  is  lin- 
ble  to  be  interrupteil  by  an  aj-reeable  surprise.  One  can  never  tell 
just  when  or  how  a  salmon  will  rise,  or  just  what  he  will  d(»  when  he 
has  risen. 


swin}^. 
pro- 


Tl 


IS  mornin;;-  the  interruption  I'onu-s  early.     At  tlie  Hrst  oast  t)f  tlu 


s.'oond  drop,  before  the  fly  has  fairly   lit.  a  frreat  Hash  of  silver  d 
from  the  waves  chtso  by   the  boat.     I'suall^ 
r.ithcr  slowly,  earryini;;  it  under  water  before  I 


arts 


y  a  salmon  takes  the  tlv 


H  It  this  one  is  in  n 


10  seizes  it  in  his 


mouti 


with  a  rush,  and  the  lino  '^xu'S  whirri 


o  m«>tui   for  deliberation.     He  has  hooked  himself 


nu:  r.iadlv  from  the  reel  as  he  r 


U'OS 


lis  own 


down  the  pool.     Keep  the  point  of  the  rod  low  ;  he  must  have  1 

way  now.     I'p  with  the  anchor  tpiii'kly,  and  send   (he  canoe  after  Iiini 

IS  reached 

im ;  we 

10  current   below 

I  a 


bowman  and  sternman  paddling-  with  swift   strokes,      lie  1 

the  deepest  water;  ho  stops  to  think  what  has  happened  to  h 
have  passed  arouiul  and  below  him;  and  now  with  the  ourronl 
to  help  us  wo  can  bi',«in  to  reel  in.     Lift  the  point  of  the  rod  witi 


stronir,  steady  pull.  Put  the  force  of  l>oth  arms  into  it.  The  toinrh 
wooti  will  s(aml  the  strain.  The  tish  must  be  moved;  he  must  come 
to  the  boat   if  he  is  ever  to  bo  landed.     He  nives  a  little  and  yields 


n< 


VI 

ai 


all 

ov 

'J) 

Al 


sill 


'!•« 


TFfK  RKt^TTOotrrrrK 


126 


K.'t  .1  Hlaok  on     1.:  Mm    a    I        a^/'^N    -'r 

«»"•  ""■  «""•'•■  i>.  i,    ?  !:".." r"''.'T, "";  '?•'.  '<"i'i"K  1.1.1. 

I«""l""  IH.  will  smvl         .ak  ,.;'''"'■■'.  '"'■  ". '"'  '"'^"^  ""  "'•' 

"H  to  l.oM  hi,,,'     H,„     I,"  '^  7'-^  T>'''  "'"    "  ^^i"  K<'  l.unl  win. 

iMck   to   ,1,0  sl.aiiow  ,si,|,.  of  M,I„o        ,  il   i  .""    '.•"■:''.""'  '••"^' 

Iwt.     Tlio  1,,„, ^,...t  ?'"".""'■.    ■^""  lu'iH,'!,,,,.  „,  i|„, 


Tl„.  (i,hi,,,  ,■,.,,„  u.  „„„,,■  „r  ,l„.  !„.,,  ,„„, ,  „,,  U,.s,iK,.,K.h„  „„. 

U.M  l,v  K....(l,.„u.„  „„.„in„  ,l„.  ,„|J,„,,,,  ,1,,,,,...,  ,„„l  i,  i,  „;,„llv  ,." 

l.,„,„  II,..  l„i,lK„  ,!,„  «i!,„,„l  r„ll„w,  ,|ow„  ,1„.  s.  „l„„-;.  „f  II,.,  |i,„ 

,  ,  '    :;;,;:r;r;: ;•"■ ; i."  .sv-.w,  »i,„;; 

:;;:'':;,;;'•• ■■."•;""■"-'  ■"--i>e»  o„  ,ii«i,.  ,„,,v„ea.  „  'C 

>i. »      on,  ,l„.  s„„„„„  ,s  r,.,„u,kul,ly  lino.     Vo,„U.,.  lie,  ,|,„  ,„„.nn , 

""■  """  '"''■'■  "'  """'1' '"  —    H..V .„„' ,.i„« „v>,.  ,„ ,°„",'' 

able    ,w..,.  lull,,  ,1,.,  „„,K,  „f  s,„„,„..,  ,,,„  „„„  si,u..M„„,„„ i,        , 

'","'■"""''  '"  '"'■'"•  ""  '""'■"'™"J-  """l"->-'  .onnina,!,;, 

.  IKv"lm,,v  ,v,,o„,.     ».,.,„  .,„..  ,,„t  ,„„  „,,,„  ^  c,„„„b    I 

»luiu.  Ml  III,.  l,.„i,s|wi-,.,il  utiiiospUcie.  '-Hiiil.uuiloii 

Williiii  II,..  „„„„l,  „t  ,|,„  ,{,,,|i     ,„.|,^,  ,|,.„.o„„.„,  i„  „,,,  ,i„,^. 

CIIJ.I,  „„.„  „uie,,  /V„V,.  ,,«./„«..    Aoios,  .lie  ..ivoi-  f|.„,„  o„„  pW  ^ 

1.0.  the.  Uiciiiac  ,c,.k.,m.„.  of  .!/«„„  ^ViW,  .hci-e  .|,„  ,.„„„„   Jj    ™ 


126 


THE   EECTTGOUCHE. 


French  vessels  may  still  be  seen  at  low  water.  The  ^licmac  village 
stands  upon  a  good  coal-field.  In  il&O,  when  the  French  Government 
was  seeking  to  regain  Quebec,  22  store-ships  were  sent  out  from  France 
under  a  strong  convoy.  In  the  gulf  they  learned  the  distasteful  in- 
telligence that  an  English  fleet  had  gone  up  the  St.  Lawrence  ahead  of 
them.  Thereupon  they  took  shelter  in  the  Bcde  des  Chalcurs,  where 
they  were  followed  by  Admiral  Byron,  commander  of  the  British  naval 
forces  at  Louisbourg,  The  British  squadron,  consisting  of  five  ships, 
captured  two  of  the  French  vessels  on  the  way  up  the  bay.  The  French 
fleet,  fleeing  into  the  Kestigouche,  took  refuge  imder  the  batteries  of 
Petite  Rochelle,  whither  the  English  followed,  and  after  silencing  the 
batteries  brought  on  a  general  engagement.  At  length  the  explosion 
of  a  French  powder-ship  brought  the  battle  to  a  close ;  and  the  English 
destroyed  not  only  the  whole  squadron  but  the  fortifications  and  the 
200  houses  of  Fedfe  Rochelle.  On  the  site  of  the  ruined  town  relics  of 
various  kinds  are  yet  from  time  to  time  unearthed.  Nine  miles  from 
Campbellton  the  train  stops  ot  Dalhousic  Junction,  whence  a  run  of 
*?  miles  brings  us  to  the  lo\ely  watering-place  of  Dalhousie,  with  its 
famous  summer  hotel,  the  Inch  Arran.  Dalhousie  lies  on  the  beautiful 
and  placid  waters  of  the  Bale  dcs  Chalcurs.  It  is  the  capital  of  Rcsti- 
gouchc  Coimty,  and  has  a  population  of  between  2,000  and  3,000,  with 
a  considerable  trade  in  lumber  and  fish.  In  the  deep  sheltered  harbor 
of  Dalhousie  the  boating  and  bathii:g  facilities  are  all  that  could  be 
desired.  The  Indian  name  of  the  Bale  dcs  Chalcurs  is  Eckctvam 
Kemaache,  which  signifies  "  a  Sea  of  Fish,"  and  is  in  the  highest  degree 
appropriate.  The  waters  of  the  bay  are  brooded  over  by  the  charm  of 
many  legends,  chief  among  which  is  that  of  the  "  Phantom  Ship," 
whose  lurid  shape  is  ^'id  to  appear  at  times  off  the  coast,  and  to  be 
associated  in  some  indeterminate  manner  with  the  omnipresent  Cap- 
tain Kidd.  Here  lies  the  scene  also  of  the  brutal  deed  of  Skipper 
Ireson,  the  subject  of  a  spirited  ballad  by  Whittier : 


"  Small  pity  for  hnn  ! — He  sailed  away 
From  a  leaking  ship  in  C'halour  Bay — 
Sailed  away  from  a  sinking  wreck, 
With  his  own  town's-people  on  Lor  deck  ! 
'  Lay  by  I  lay  by  ! '  they  called  to  him  ; 
Back  he  answered  :   '  Sink  or  swim  1 
Brag  of  your  catch  of  fish  ajj^in  ! ' 
And  off  he  sailed  through  the  fog  and  rain." 


1         !l 


(.'( 


I{ 


di 

Ai 
de 


Wil 


to 
lal 

8ll( 

tri 
Tw 

cor 
siff 


THE   RESTKJOUCIIE   TO   MONCTON. 


127 


From  the  Restigouche  to  Moncton. 

From  Dalhousio  Junction  to  Bathurst  the  traveler  gets  some  noble 
and  spacious  views  from  the  car-windows.     Ten  miles  fron.  the  Junc- 
tu.n  is  Charlo,  beside  the  Chado  River,  a  small  stream  which  has  not 
been  leased  for  several  years,  though  it  is  a  capital  trout-stream   and 
one  may  lull  a  few  sahuon  on  it  in  the  early  part  of  the  season      Six 
teen  mdes  farther  on  we  cross  Jac<j>,ct  Rhcr,  a  famous  fishin-r  strean. 
winch  a  few  years  ago  was  nearly  depleted  by  poachers,  but^which  is 
rapidly  regaining  its  old  status  under  judicious  protection.     Bcvond 
Jac(iuet  River  wo  pass  th(>  unimportant  stations  of  Bellcdune  and  Pelite 
Aochr,  at  the  latter  of  which  we  cross  the  little  Nigadou  River     As  we 
approach  the  fine  harbor  of  liafhnrsf  we  cross  the  7\,fa<fouchc  River 
Then  we  come  to  the  town  of  Hathurst,  where  flows  in  the  NepmefuU 
Jviver.     The  name  Xopisiguit  signifies  foaming  waters.     Resides  this 
river  and  the  Tatagouchc,  two  other  streams  empty  themselves  into 
the  lovely  basin  of  liathurst  Harbor-namely,  Middle  Riv.r  and  the 
Lif/le  Aepisiyulf.     All  are  fishing  streams,  but  the  fame  of  the  lesser 
three  is  quite  eclipsed  by  that  of  the  Nepisiguit.     The  name  Tatagouchc 
IS  a  corruption  of  the  Indian  Tootoogoose,  which  signifies  Fairy  RivcM- 
Ihe  town  of  Rathurst  is  beautifully  >ituated  on  two  high  poinis  sepa- 
rated by  a  shallow  estuary.     It  has  a  population  of  about  3,000  and  a 
considerable  trade  in  fish  and  lumber.     The  chief  hotel  is  the  Keare,, 
Home.     The  settlement  of  Rathurst  was  begun  in  1638   by  a  wealthv 
Rasque,  M.  Jean  Jacques  Enaud,  who  took  to  himself  as  wife  a  Mo'- 
hawk  princess.     Rut  difficulties  arose  between  the   French   and   the 
Indians,  and  the  latter  at  length  destroyed  the  infant  settlement      The 
district  was  an  old  battle-ground  of  the  Mohawks  and  the  Micmacs 
At  different  times  settlements  were  begun  on  the  harbor,  only  to  be 
destroyed  by  the  savages  or  by  American  privateers.    The  present  town 
was  founded  in  1818  by  Sir  Howard  Douglas. 

The  reputation  of  the  Nepisiguit  as  a^'salmon-stream  is  second  only 
to  that  of  the  Restigouche  and  Miramichi.  It  rises  in  a  number  of 
lakes  in  the  high  central  plateau  of  the  province,  separated  by  only  a 
short  portage  from  the  head-waters  of  certain  of  the  St.  John's  chief 
tributaries.  The  course  of  the  Nepisiguit  is  tumultuous  and  broken 
Iwenty  miles  above  its  mouth  it  plunges  in  four  leaps  over  a  ma-nifl- 
cent  cataract  140  ft.  in  height,  known  as  the  Grand  Falh  of  the  Kepi 
siffuit.     Below  the  fall  the  river  glides  through  a  narrow  channel  be- 


m 


128 


THE   RESTIOOUrilE   TO   TVIONCTON. 


twetMi  liipli  cliffs.  AI)()vo  its  ih'bo„chrrtm,t  ir  rolk  over  a  bod  of  great 
granite  bowlcicrs.  Though  (he  riv-r  is  leased,  and  a  good  doiil  of  n^ney 
spent  on  its  i)r()teetion,  its  sahnon-fisheries  arc  deteriorating,  owing,  it 
is  said,  to  a  system  of  trap-nets  below  tide-water,  so  arranged  as'to 
prevent  lisli  entering  the  river.  This  dillieulty,  it  seems,  can  hardly  be 
remedied,  as  tidal  waters  are  not  under  the  control  of  the  provincial 
authorities.  Throughout  tlie  whole  of  its  upper  course,  however,  the 
river  simply  swarms  with  trout  of  lurge  size,  which  are  rarely  disturbed 
owing  to  the  comparative  inaccessibility  of  the  waters  tliey  occupy. 
The  best  way  to  reach  them  is  from  the  other  side  of  the  province,  by 
a  canoe  trip  up  the  Tobi(jiir  and  down  the  Nei)isiguit  from  its  source. 
Tins  is  a  trip  to  delight  such  bold  canoe-men  as  long  for  the  complete 
wilderness  and  a  little  spice  of  danger.  The  sr.lmon  of  the  Nepisiguit 
arc  smaller  than  those  of  the  Ilestigouehe,  but  a  verv  fierce  and  active 
fish. 

Five  miles  beyond  Bathurst  lies   Gloucrstn-  Jmw/ioi,,  whence  the 
Caraipu't  Railway  runs  down  to  the  Bale  den   Chnleurs  shore  to  the 
inagniliccnt  harbor  of  S/iipjvffan,  the  port  of  refuge  of  the  Canadian 
and  American  fishing  tleet.^i.     The  fare  to  Camquet  and  return  is  |2.25. 
This  harbor  is  very  peculiarly  situated  at  the  extremity  of  a  cape  which 
thrusts  itself  far  out  into  the  gulf.     It  occupies  an  important  point  in 
a  scheme  known  as  the  ocean  fei-ry,  by  which  it  is  proposed  to  shorten 
the  transatlantic  passage.     The  idea  is  to  run  a  fast  express  between 
New  York  and  Shippigan,  swift  steamers  from  Hhippigan  across  the 
(Julf  of  St.  Lawrence  to  St.  (George's  Bay  in  Newfoundland,  thence 
fast  express  again  across  Newfoundland  to  St.  John's,  whence  it  is  but 
l,tMO  nules  of  ocean  voyage  to  Valencia.     This  scheme  is  yet  in  nuhi- 
buH,  and  may  r-main  so;  but  just  beyond  Shippigan  lies  the  wide  flat 
island  of  Mhcou,  whose  shooting-grounds  are  perhaps  the  best  in  the 
Dominion.     The  seasons  are  August  and  September  for  plover,  Scp- 
teudier,  October,  and  November  for  geese,  ducks,  and  brant.      The 
shooting  privileges  of  iliscou  are  hold  by  Lee  Babbitt,  Esq.,  of  Fred- 
ericton,  who  may  be  addressed  on  the  subject.     :\liscou  Island  is  about 
20  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  reached  by  boat  from  Cara((uot.     Ihe 
distance  between  Caraquet  and  Gloucester  Junction  by  rail  is  aboul  [.' 
miles.     The  district  about  Shippigan  was  once  a  favorite  reeort  o:  the 
walrus. 

Between  Gloucester  Junction  and   the  town  of   Newcastle  on  the 
Miramichi,  a  distance  of  39  miles,  we  pass  but  three  stations,  namely, 


THE    RESTIGOUCIIE   TO   MONCTON.  ]  29 

/?../  Pirn,  Barmo^fuc.  and  Beam-  Brook.     Newcastle  is  at  the  hond  of 
.leep  water  navigation  on  the  Mirau.iehi.     It  is  a  ship-hnil.lino  een.rr 
w.. h  a  population  of  between  2,<.00  and  3,000,  and  a  considerable 
tnule  m  inn.her  and  in  canned  and  frozen  fish.     The  chief  hotel  is  the 
"  "vn-h,        ,ve  .uiles  down  the  river,  on  the  sonth  shore,  lies  Chat- 
Lam,  the  ch.ef  town  of  the  ;^«lf  coast  of  New  Bn.nswick.     AIn.ost 
-Hlway  between  them,  on  the  san.e  si<le  of  the  river  as  Newcastle  i 
he  lumbering   village  of  I)oru,la.tov,..     Chathan,  is  about  12  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Miran.iehi.     Its  population  is  nearly  «,<.00,  its 
harbor  US  safe  and  roomy,  an<l  its  lumbering,  fishing,  and  ship-^uilding 
mtcests  are    arge.     It  is  the  terminus  of  .the  Northern  and  Weslent 
Radway,  winch  runs  between  Chatham  and  Fredericton,  and  it  is  the 
see  town  of  a  Ron.an  Catholic  bishop.     Between  Newcastle  and  Chat- 
han,  one  n.ay  go  by  rail  by  way  of  Chatham  Jrmction  ;  but  n.ueh  the 
ZL    "'V"''  pleasant  trip  is  by  the  stean.ers  that  ply  on  the  river, 
though  as  far  as  the  scenery  is  concerned  the  Miramichi,  in  its  lower 
portions  at  least,  has  little   to  boast  of.     Th.  view  ol  Chatham  is 
dommated  by  t^^e  lofty  piles  of  the  Roman  Catholic  institutions  St. 
Murefs  Cathedral. na  College,  and  the  Convent  and  Hospital.     The 
chK^  hotels  of  Chatham  are  the  Adan.s  Hon.sc  and  Bomer\. 

Besules  the  Mira-nichi  itself,  to  be  referred  to  presentlv,  the  trav- 
eler who  haUs  at  Chatham  finds  himself  within  convenient  "distance  of 
many  fine  fishmg  waters.     It  is  a  short  drive  to  the  mrti/>offue,  whose 
wide  shallow  reaches  abound  in  season  with  splendid  sea-trout      It  is 
an  easy  stream  to  fish,  and  at  the  head  of  tide  may  be  had  good  sport 
>v.th  the  striped  bass.     Stages  run  from  Chatham  to  the  famous  jlbn. 
sr>dac,     the  place  where  two  meet,"  a  distance  of  34  miles.   As  a  trout- 
stream  this  narrow  river,  full  of  pools,  is  almost  unrivaled.     The  sea- 
trout  swarm  up  its  waters,  and  run  very  large.     A  trip  to  the  Tabu- 
Mutac  IS  the  great  delight  of  Chatham  anglers.     Fifteen  miles  beyond 
this  river  hes  the  Bi,  Tracadie  River,  a  broad,  shallow  stream  well 
stocked  with  salmon  and  trout,  and  running  through  a  sandy  region. 
The  district  about  the  river  is  thickly  settled  with  Acadian  French 
whose  farming  and  fishing  are  alike  prosi.erous.     The  mouth  of  the 
Tracadie  as  of  most  streams  flowing  into  the  gulf  along  this  coast,  is 
sheltered  by  a  long,  low,  sandy  island,  forming  a  shallow  lagoon.    The<e 
lagoons  are  frequented  in  the  autumn  by  vast  flocks  of  ducks   wild 
goese,  and  brant.     At  Tracadie  is  the  famous  Lnaretto,  an  object  of 
anost  painful  interest,  where  a  colony  of  lepers  is  secluded  and  cared 


ii  S    ! 


130 


THE   RESTIGCUCIIE   TO   MONCTON. 


for.  Some  time  in  the  course  of  last  century  a  French  vessel  v/as 
wrecked  on  this  coast,  certain  of  whose  sailors  were  afflicted  with  the 
virulent  leprosy  of  the  Levant.  By  close  associetion  and  intermarriage 
the  disease  spread  rapidly  among  the  Acadians,  but  it  is  now  being 
stamped  out  by  the  precautions  of  the  Government. 

From  Chatham  excursion  steamers  run  frequently  down  the  river  to 
the  settlements  of  Bafi  du  Vin  on  the  south  shore  and  Burnt  Church 
on  the  north  shore  of  Miramichi  Bay.  Both  these  settlements  are  on 
small  trout  rivers.  Burnt  Church  is  the  capital  of  the  Micraac  Indians, 
and  they  gather  to  the  spot  in  great  numbers  every  summer  on  the 
festival  of  St.  Anne.  They  celebrate  the  festival  with  religious  cere- 
monies, sports,  and  dances.  Governor  Gordon  says,  "  I  was  surprised 
by  the  curious  resemblance  between  these  dances  and  those  of  the 
Greek  peasantry." 

The  Miramichi. 

The  Miramichi  is  the  second  river  in  the  province,  ranking  next  to 
the  St.  John  in  size  and  importance.  The  head-waters  of  some  of  its 
tributaries  interlace  with  those  of  streams  that  flow  into  the  St.  John. 
A  short  distance  above  .¥ewcasile  the  river  forks  into  whsit  are  known 
as  the  Nor^wcst  Miramichi  and  the  Sovhvest  Miramichi^  of  which 
the  latter  is  really  the  main  stream.  The  name  is  Micmac,  and  means 
"  the  happy  retreat."  The  Sou'west  Branch  is  the  more  thickly  set- 
tled, and  its  valley  is  traversed  by  the  Northern  and  Western  R.  R.  as 
far  as  Boiestown,  The  course  of  the  river,  as  of  most  of  its  tribu- 
taries, is  comparatively  unbroken,  and  oifers  every  facility  for  both 
fishing  and  canoeing.  The  Nor'west  Branch  is  more  difficult  of  access 
and  has  perhaps  fewer  first-rate  salmon-pools.  Nearly  all  these  waters, 
however,  are  justly  renowned  for  trout  and  salmon.  Particularly 
famous  are  such  tributaries  as  the  Big  and  Little  Scvoffle,  the  Bcnous, 
and  the  Dungarvan  ;  and  in  the  latter  stream,  owing  to  the  rigid  sup- 
pression of  poaching,  the  fish  become  yearly  more  numerous.  Perhaps 
the  most  famous  salmon-pools  are  those  on  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Sou'west  Branch,  above  Boicsioivn,  at  the  mouths  of  Burnt  Hill  Brook, 
Rocky  Brook,  and  the  Clear  Water.  J'or  information  as  to  fishing 
privileges  in  New  Brunswick  generally,  one  would  do  well  to  communi- 
cate with  the  Commii'sioner  for  the  Province,  J.  Henry  Pliair,  Esq.,  of 
Fredericton.  An  excellent  canoe  trip  may  be  made  by  ascendir.p;  the 
river  St.  John  by  steamer,  canoe,  or  rail  some  distance  above  Woodstock 


THE   RE8TIG0UCHE   TO   MONCTON.  131 

and  portaging  over  by  a  short  carry  to  the  head  of  the  Sou'west  Branch 
whence  the  run  is  easy  all  the  way  to  Chatham. 

A  pood  deal  of  history  has  been  made  on  the  lower  portion  of  the 
Miramich,  and  about  its  mouth.     The  early  settlers  were  usually  unfor- 
tunate m  thejr  relations  with  the  Indians.     An  interesting  point  is 
Beauba^r  s  Mand,  at  the  confluence   of   the  NorVest  and  Sou'west 
Branches.     Here  once  stood  a  flourishing  French  town,  most  of  whose 
inhabitants  perished  by  disease  and  famine  in  1758.     The  destruction 
of  tbe  town  was  completed  by  a  I^ritish  fleet  in  1759,  and  now  its  site 
IS  woods  and  picnicgrounds.     In  October,  1825,  the  greater  portion  of 
the  river  valley  was  visited  by  an  awful  calamity  which  occupies  a  very 
promment  place  in  New  Brunswick  history  under  the  name  of  The 
Great  Mtran^rchi  Fire.     This  conflagration  destroyed  3,000,000  acres 
of  forest  and  160  human  lives.     Those  who  escaped  only  sa;ed  then,- 
selves  by  uvkmg  refuge  in  the  h-kes  and  rivers.    The  catastrophe  is 
thus  described  by  Dr.  Bryce : 

For  two  days  precodiitg  the  7th  of  Octohpr   iso^  tl^o  «;„  i,  ^  u 
Intensely  close;  t'here  was"a  dead  cdm      Sarf  e;eni^^^^^ 

cinders,  ashes,  and  hot  sand,  so  that  simultaneously  severa  hundS 
of  square  mdes  were  wrapped  in  one  blaze.  The  town  of  TewcS  was 
swept  awav  almost  entirely.  Vessels  in  the  river  were  cast  ashoe  Tnd 
ll^^t^rf'  '^""^^^^^  "^"  "'^"'  ^"^"^^"^  >^"d  «hildTen  wte  over 
upwa"  d  of  ^2  OoTS/"  r  T^t  ^""^  Go'vernor-General  advanced 
fCni;  ir  '  2  ?'  '^^'^^'  '^^'^^  ^^*«  cheerfully  assumed  by  Lower 
Canada  Nova  Scotia  appropriated  £750,  and  militarv  stores  tnlZ 
vah.  of  many  thousands  of  pound,  were  sent  to  S'mSble^I;! 

The  Intercolonial  crosses  the  Miramichi  above  the  forks  by  two 
fine  bridges.  Between  Newcastle  and  Kent  Junction  it  passes  the  small 
stations  of  i).%,  Chatham  Junction,  Barnabu  River,  and  Rogersville. 
At  Kent  Junction  the  Kent  Northern  R.  R.  may  be  taken  for  the  quiet 

lip";  ..''''  *^'  ''P^*'^^  '^  ^''''  ^°""ty'  "^'^r  the  mouth 
of  tho  R^ch^bucto  R^ver.  The  neighborhood  is  interesting  to  tourists 
chiefly  for  the  typical  Acadian  town  of  St.  Louis,  with  its  sacred  well 
and  grotto.  7  miles  by  rail  from  Richibucto.  The  fine  summer  hotel  of 
Richibucto,  krown  as  "  The  Beaches,"  is  now  closed.  The  name  Rich', 
bucto  means  "  the  river  of  tire,"  and  was  applied  not  only  to  the  river 
fnit  to  a  fierce  inbe  of  savages  that  dwelt  upon  its  shores  In  1724 
this  tribe,  under  the  leadership  of  their  chief,  the  Great  Wizard,  made 


t'W 


182 


ROITTKH   FROM   MONCTON. 


I       SI 


an  expedition  to  Canm  and  captured  sovontcen  MassachuBetts  vcsselfl. 
With  this  fleet  they  were  sailing  lionieward  in  triumpii  when  they  were 
ov(M'talvcn  by  two  ships  of  war  whicli  had  been  scuit  in  pursuit  of  Ihern 
from  IJoston,  In  the  strange  sea-fight  that  followed  the  Indians  fought 
desperately,  but  were  defeated  and  slain  to  a  man.  After  leaving  Kent 
Junction  we  pass  the  stations  of  Wcld/nrd,  Adamsvil/p,  Conl  Bt  inch, 
Canaan,  and  Ji(i'ri/\s  MilLs,  in  the  run  of  45  miles  which  brings  us  to  the 
cjty  of  Moneton. 

Moiicton. 

iHoncton  is  important  as  a  railway  center.  It  is  a  prosperous 
and  rapidly  growing  town  of  about  l(),t)00  inliabitants,  but  is  not  a 
pretty  town  as  regards  either  its  situation  or  its  buildings.  It  has  a 
sugar  refinery,  cotton- factory,  and  the  works,  and  otHoes  of  the  Inter- 
colonial R.  R.  It  lies  in  a  flat,  inexhaustibly  fertile  farming  region  at 
what  is  known  as  "  The  Hend  "  of  the  Pcditrodiac  liiver,  a  remarkable 
tidal  stream  flowing  into  the  15ay  of  Fundy.  The  extreme  variation 
between  high  and  low  tide  sometimes  reaches  70  ft. ;  and  the  flood 
tide  sweeps  up  the  channel  in  a  foaming  wall  of  water  from  4  ft. 
to  ()  ft.  high,  which  is  known  as  the  Hore  of  the  Petitcodiac.  The 
shores  of  all  these  tidal  rivers  emptying  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy  are 
lined  with  vast  breadths  of  salt  meadows,  consisting  of  an  alluvial  de- 
posit of  wonderful  depth  and  inexhaustible  fertility.  They  are  re- 
claimed from  the  sea  by  an  elaborate  system  of  dikes,  and  produce 
fabulous  crops  of  hay.  There  are  several  good  hotels  in  Moneton,  of 
which  the  best  are  the  Brnnswiek,  the  Commernal,  and  the  Ro>/(il,  re- 
cently rebuilt;  rates,  $2  per  day.  From  M<»ncton  a  railway  runs  to 
'no  town  of  Budouchc  (famous  for  its  oy.«ters),  a  distance  of  32  miles. 
Return  tickets  cost  $1.50.  The  chief  hotel  at  Buctouehe  is  the  Bay 
View. 

Routes  from  Moneton. 

Moneton  to  St.  John,  $2.67  ;  return,  >$4.00.  Moneton  to  Charlotte- 
town,  $3.50 ;  return,  $5.30. 

In  the  way  of  choice  of  routes  from  Moneton  the  traveler  now  ex- 
periences an  einbarra{<  de  ric/iei^KrK.  If  he  wants  to  do  New  Briuiswick 
thoroughly  before  going  outside  of  the  province,  his  best  route  is  as 
follows :  By  Intercolonial  (western  section)  to  St.  John  ;  thence  up 
the  rivrr  Sf.  John  to  Firderidoii,  Woxistock,  Grand  Falls,  and  the 
fishing  districts  of   the    Tobiijue^   Green  Riiwr^   and   the   Suuattooks. 


ROUTES   FROM   MONCTON. 


133 


From  Woodstock  or  Frodcrioton  hy  rail  to  Si.  Stephen,  Sf..  Andrews, 
Campohello,  and  the  lovely  region  of  rumima(juod,h, ;  thence  by  bont 
or  the  cars  of  the  (Jrand  Southern  baek  to  St.  John,     From  St   John 
one  may  eross  the  Hay  of  Fundy  to  l)},,h,,  and  thence  up  the  far-fan,ed 
Annapolis  Valhuj,  tiirou-h  the  hmd  of  Kvan-.line,  by  the  Windsor  and 
Annapolis   R.  1{.  to  Halifax.      From  Halifax  as  a  center  one  mav 
conveniently  do  the  eastern  end  of  the  province,  witii  Pnnce  k'dward 
hland,  Cape  Ih-cton,  and  the  far-otf  ancient  colony  of  Newfoundland  • 
then,  when  ready  to  set  his  face  for  the  land  of  the  eagle,  lie  may  take 
the  splendid  steamers  City  of  Halifax  and  Olivette,  of  the  Canada  At- 
lantie  and  Plant  Line,  for  Boston.      This  hitter  is  a  luxurious  and 
delightful  voyage,  skirting  the  bold  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  Scotia  and 
avoiding  the  choppy  seas  of  the  Hay  of  Fundy  mouth. 

Another  good   route  is  to  retrace  one's  steps  from    St.  John  to 
M(meton  after  having  finished  the  western  portion  of  New  Brunswick 
H'one  intends  to  do  Prince  Edward  Iskmd  &m\  Cape  Breton,  it  will  be 
best  to  follow  the  main  line  of  the   Intercolonial  from  Moncton  to 
hackville,  and  thence   across  the  Mhnms  of  (Jhi-jnecto  to  Amherst 
where  one  may  visit  the  famous  Chiynedo  Skip  Ji.  Ji,     From  Amherst 
he  will  return  by  Intercolonial,  a  distance  of  4(»  miles,  to  Painscc 
Junction,  whence  a  branch  line  runs  to  the  charming  little  watering, 
place  of  Shediac,  where  there  is  unrivaled  sea-bathing  in  the  warm 
waters  of  Northumberland  Strait.     From  Shediac  one  goes  bv  boat  to 
mmmerHide,  in  Prince  Edward  Island  ;  thence  by  rail  down  .1.;  island  to 
the  city  of  Charlottetown,  its  capital ;  thence  by  boat  again  to  Pidou 
Aova  Scoha,  ami  by  rail  from  Pietou  to  .Uuf^rare,  where  we  cross  the 
Uut  0/  Canso  into  Cape  Breton.     After  having  tasted  the  fishing  and 
scenery  of  Cape  Breton,  then  back  by  rail  to  Pietou  and  7V«>-o,and  on 
to  Halifax.     By  this  course  one  misses  the  country  between  Amherst 
and  Truro  along  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial,  which  is,  however,  neither 
beautiful  nor  historic,  but  interesting  mainly  for  its  great  coal-mines 
and  iron-works  at   Spring  Hill  and  Londondcrnf.      The  latter  town 
however,  may  be  visited  by  a  short  run  from  Truro,  and  the  former  by 
the  Cumberland  Railway  and  Coal  Co.  from  Parrsboro  on  .)rhms  Basin 
Having  reached  Halifax  by  this  route  a  traveler  n.ay  then  take  the 
Dommion  Atlantic  Ry.  to  Digby,  making,  if  he  will,  a  dl'tour  from 
Muldleton  by  the  Nova  Scotia  Central  to  Bridgcwater  and  Lunenburg  on 
the  Atlantic  coast.     From  Digby  he  may  cross  the  bay  to  St.  John  by 
the  City  of  Monticello,  and  thence  to  Boston  either  by  rail  or  by  the 


184 


MONCTON    TO   HT.    .lOWN. 


li 


s|tl(>iitli(l  fouKt  Hfciiiiioi'H  «»f  flH»  Iiit(>i-inili*)iiiil  SloiifiiKhiii  ('a. ;  or  lie  may 
go  !»y  tlio  Doiiiiiiidii  Mlaiilir  Uy.  to  tlu«  oity  of  Yantmilh^  iit  tho  «x- 
M«<ii»>  soiitliwcHj  fonuT  of  Nova  S<'oliii,  and  tlu'inv  by  ouo  of  Iho  Hue 
new  HttMiinorM  of  Hio  Vaniiiiiitli  l.iiic — llic  VariiionilMir  th«' HokIou  - 
l>y  a  i>l«>asaiil  oit'aii  viiyagc  »■!  nixlci'ii  Iioiiim  to  llw  metropolis  of  Nrw 
Kiiglaiid. 

From  Moncton  to  St.  John. 

From  Moiit'lon  to  St.  .loliii,  a  distaiioc  of  St>  milrs,  tlii'  In(«M  <iiial 
runs  for  llio  most  pi\r»  thi'ongli  a  rich  farming!;  cotuilry,  and,  as  we  ap- 
proach St.  .I(»hn,  \vc  calch  many  hciiuliful  views  fiom  tlic  ,ir-\vindows 
Tlie  far  to  St.  John  is  *2.<»7 ;  return,  |l.  At,  Salishunf,  1!{  ndlos 
from  MoiH  Ion,  the  lntercoh)nial  is  jctin' d  by  the  Salisbury  and  Harvey 
K.  H.,  wliii'li  runs  If)  miles  through  the  ,-imall  lishiug  and  ship-building 
villages  of  .Mbert  (\)iii\ty  to  its  ternunus  mi  S/ic/'  ihf  liaii,  an  inU't  of 
the  Hay  (d'  Kululy.  Hillsboro  is  an  important  village  (ui  this  line,  and 
ln»s  n  heavy  plaster  trade.  .Vt  Allu  rt  .]/tiii's  was  onee  procured  tlie 
ntost  valmiblo  species  of  coal  which  tlie  wculd  has  known.  This  nun- 
oral,  called  Albertite,  fetched  enormous  prices;  but  tiie  supply  is  now 
exhausted,  and  the  village  is  falling  to  decav.  Tlie  coast  villugc-t  of 
.Mbert  fouuty  are  largely  engrossed  in  th(>  shad-lisheites.  The  peak 
of  iSy«'/)<)(/v  .l/r)»';»/(r//(,  called  originally  "Chapeau  Dieu"  from  its  crown 
of  clouds,  conunauds  a  truly  sublime  view.  The  regiiui  it  overlooks  is 
rich  ill  minerals  and  game. 

Kiv«'  miles  from  Salisbury  is  the  village  of  l\>/frft  h'hur,  with  good 
trout-lishing  and  fine  scenery  at  Pollctt  Falls.  Five  miles  farther  we 
come  to  the  imporlaut  village  of  /'<tif<0(/i<i<'  (chief  hotels,  Mansurd 
/A)M,sr  and  Central)  in  a  district  settled  by  Dutch  loyalists  from  I'enn- 
.•^ylvania.  Not  far  from  Petitcodiac  arc  the  famous  fishing  waters  of 
i\iU'Ui»  h'inr.  Leaving  IVtitcodiac  W(>  pass  small  ataticms  with  the 
picturesque  names  «d'  A)in(/o>Kr,  /'tiioht^tfiis,  and  /'/niirrisnp.  Then 
we  reach  the  growing  town  of  Siiksix,  the  center  of  th(>  rii-h  agricultural 
district  of  Sussex  Vale,  which  contains  the  head-waters  of  the  lovely 
h't'ini'.'hecmis,  and  was  settled  by  loyalists  from  New  Jersey.  Hetween 
Sussex  and  Ilainpfon,  a  distance  of  'Jl  miles,  we  pass  the  stations  of 
A/)ofi(t<fui  (famous  for  its  mineral  waters\  .V<*;7<);/,  /i/ooiiifii/(/,  and 
P:iss(lirop.  From  Norton  a  new  railroad,  the  Central,  runs  northward 
aci-oss  tlie  Wihsfnu/ciinud-  through  the  coal  regions  at  the  head  of  (iratid 
J.ake.      Hampton  is  a  growing  town  on  tho  Keniiebecusis,  22   miles 


iii., 


HT.    JOHN. 


135 


fmni  St,  John,  and  in  ii  fuvoiif. 


«'  Hiiiiiiiicr  n-Nort  f<»r  the  pooplr  nf  that 

ruuHwick  riitiH 


olty.     J'Voin  llatiiplon   »Ii.'  (\mtiiil    lliiilway  (»f  New   U 

iilMHif  «(>  iiiiloM  ,  oiillioaHt  t.»  thoHmiil)  tovvaof  tit.  Miirfhm  or  Qnnm 

(HI  the  Hiiv  of  hiiidy.     giiiifu  h  oii(>  of  the  <liicf  sliip-liiiildiim  mitoiH 

'"   ♦'"'   l»''"^' ;    '««  li'iilM.r  iH  «'x  wodlnj^ly  |)i(|.ir('M<,i„.,  and  Is  Hiir- 

oii<>.     Till'  proiiionlmy  of  Qimco  Head 


rniindoil  by  luny  rlilfH  of  Haiido 


Olll 


aiiioiiH 


is  ail  iiiiporlatit  liindiiiark  lo  Hay-o|  hindy  iiavinntois.     N.»l,  fur  fi 
the  town  of  (^iiaco  are  I'mn^'s  Lakfi  and  Mount  ThmhnUl  Lnkv,  f 
for  (iK'ir  ti'ont. 

H.twccii  IlamptoM  and  Hi.  John  tlic  KcniH'lu.ciiHiM  (»prns  out  into  ii 
ilccp  and  wide  .'stni.ry  of  tlic  riv.r  St.  .Inhn,  with  iH.tl.  nlion-s  frinK'od 
with  woodi'd  uplands  in  which  iu'sM,.s  many  a  (piict  villiiL'c.     'riw  snin- 


mor  I'lliiifttc  about  fills  hrauliful  wiit( 


r  is,  likf  its  lioaling  and  its  bath- 


K'lr  siunnuT 


uiK,  not  to  he  surpassed.  After  passing  the  stations  of  Nnin,'ul,,nm,d\ 
MoiH  Fnnn,  and  Qni.spamni.t  wo  eoine  to  the  lovely  little  town  of 
AWZ/fsa//,  wliere  nuuiy  <d"  St.  John's  wealthy  citizens  have  tl 
homes.  h'oth,.tin/  llall  is  a  ^jood  sunun.T  liot(.|.  Across  th»>  wide  water 
of  the  Kennehirasis  fnun  (ioinhda  I'oint  lies  the  secluded  and  iK'initi- 
IhI  villa^'e  of  Cli/lon,  famous  for  its  strawberries.  lA-avin;,'  HotlHwiv, 
the  train  skirts  tlu^  Kennebecasis,  passing  the  Htati<nis  of  lavenide 


'J'orn/hurn,  and  liroohullr.     On  the  farther  kI 


burn,   is   the  peculiar   clilf  culled   the  "M 


Mouse  stands  near  the  famous  Keiineb 


liore,  across  from  Torry- 
inisier's  Face."     Torrvburn 
U 


Ixicasis  Row  in;;  Course.     Metwec 


Torryburn  and  St.  John,  ;)n  what  is  Unuwii  as  the  Marsh  Koad,  is  the 
racecourse  of  .]foo.sr.,mfh  I'ork.  A  few  miles  east  of  Torryburn,'toward 
the  i-oast,  lies  the  favorite-  (ishln^'  resort  of  Ij>rh  fAmiond,  with  ^'ood 
shoofiiif,'  in  the  neighborhood.     Loch  Lomond  properly  c(msists  of  three 


lakes,  and  in  their  waters  niav  I 


trout,  but  what  is  k 


)c  caurrht  iKtt  oiily  the  ordinary  brook- 
nown  as  the  white  trout.     linnhr's  and  DahdVi 


are  hotels  on  the  Inke.  The  railway  keeps  alon^r  the  river  shore  to 
within  2  or  ,{  niilos  of  the  city,  when  it  leaves  the  water  and  runs 
throu^di  a  marshy  valley,  throu^rli  the  manufacturing'  suburb  of  (hhU 
brook,  and  into  tl:e  splendid  new  Intercolonial  station  at  St.  John 


St.  John. 

The  population  of  St  John  ia  39,179.  The  chief  hotels  are  the 
Aoi/(t/  and  Aew  Vidona  ;  rates  from  two  to  three  dollars  a  (hiy.  Elec- 
tric ears  (far.  5  cents)  traverse  the  [irineipal  streets.  The  city  is  well 
supplied  with  hacks-fare  ;{()  cents  between  depot  and  hotels  50  cents 


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136 


ST.    JOHN. 


I    ii 


per  half-hour     Opera-House,  the  Academy  of  Music.     Chief  club  the 
Unic.      The  ferry  and  bridge  tolls,  for  carriage,  are  16  and  20  cents 

the  foot  of  Frmcess  Sf  The  up-river  steumers  of  the  Union  Line  leave 
Indmntown  daily  for  Frederidon  at  9  a.  m.  The  steamship  Citv  of  E 
ticello  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy  S  S.  Co.  leaves  ior' Df^t^! aI:^^^ 
8  a.  m  daily  m  summer ;  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays  in  win 
M  /^M^'^^^'i  ^^  *^^  International  S.  S.  Co.  leave  at  8  a.  m  on 
Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays  during  the  summer  months.  \Z 
mg  the  winter  they  run  one  and  sometimes  two  steamers  a  week.  On 
^randlX         ^^^^'^^^^  *^"  ^^^^"^  '«^^««  Indiantown  at  8  a.  m.  for 

The  city  of  St.  John,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  New  Brunswick 
has  a  population  of  something  less  than  40,000,  and  ranks  as  the  sixth 
city  of  the  Dominion.  As  a  ship-owning  center  she  heads  the  list.  St 
John  is  a  creation  of  the  United  Empire  Loyalists.  The  site  of  thJ 
city  is  historic  ground.  The  tirst  settlements  at  the  mouth  of  the  St 
John  River  were  ri.ade  by  the  French  early  in  the  seventeenth  century 
The  most  stirriikg  episode  in  the  early  history  of  the  spot  is  that  of  the 
feud  between  Charles  La  Tour,  who  had  a  fort  at  the  head  of  St  John 
Harbor,  and  his  rival  D'Aulnay  Charnisay,  who  had  his  headquarters 
across  the  bay  at  Port  Royal.  Trading  with  the  Indians,  and  fishing 
and  hunting,  Charles  La  Tour  prospered  in  his  fort  in  the  St.  John's 
mouth.  The  story  of  the  disasters  that  at  length  overtook  him  has 
been  thus  told  by  the  present  writer  in  another  work: 

w.J.'„^"*  La  Tour's  chief  good  fortune  lay  in  the  possession  of  a 
woman,  who  appt-ars  to  have  been  in  all  ways  the  fit  wife  for  a  man 
nL«n.-.  P-^  ?"■  ^bjl'^y-,"«  '«««  than  his  own,  contributed  to  his 
Sfft  ^"^.  "r"°  ^^':  ^'^  '•^«*  ^'^«'  ^«''  t^«  «'^<^'  '^'l  his  life-long 
of  T«  Toi'Tl  'i*^^^'^•  ''  '^^^  ''''■^"Sh  the  vindictive  jealousf 
of  La  Tours  brother-lieutenant  in  Acadia,  D'Aulnay  Charnisay  that 
an  end  came  to  these  fair  prospects.  Holding  undisputed  authoritv 
over  half  the  territory  of  Acadia,  Charnisay  had  no  oy  in  h  s  pS 
sessions  while  h.s  hated  rival  was  in  prosperity  near  him.  Craving 
the  .ich  trade  that  flowed  through  the  post  on  the  St.  John  and 
conscious  of  his  strength  at  the  court  of  France,  he  was  soon  in 'open 
hostilities  agamst  La  Tour  in  Acadia,  and  intriguing  against  him  at 

Chw"''-  '^^  \''^"^*,  ^^  ^""^  "^^  ^^^''f^^d  wilh  l-eason  and 
Charnisay  was  authorized  to  seize  and  hold  him  for  trial.  Dut  La 
lour  was  behind  his  walls  and  secure  in  the  justice  of  his  cause.  He 
mocked  at  the  royal  mandates  and  made  ready  for  a  stru-^le  The 
city  of  Rochelle  came  promptly  to  his  assistance,  while  CbarnTsa'v  drew 
re-enlorcements  from  Paris.  In  the  spring  of  1643  Charnisay  suddenly 
with  a  large  force,  blockaded  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John.    Supplies 


ST.   JOHN. 


137 


wVentis'r  'v:dt';a\1i  ^-ly  expected  from  RocheHe. 

cloudy  night  a  C  TlippT^ent  v  oZf  t^^^^^^^^  «"d  one 

tide.  Invisible  in  the  8^00™  alon  ^1  e  CnrW  ^T"  "P"')  *^^  ^^^• 
fhe  rocky  heights  of  PartrXe  ?S  1  <-a'^>«ton  «hore  and  beneath 
the  t,lockading  ships  and  LaTn^r-'V^''''-  "^^^  ^'''^  ^^'■'  «""«  ^^' 
the  Rochelle  vessel  THp  iT?  ?  ^^'^  ^'^^  ""''^  "^  ^O"-  ^ostor  in 
appearance  of  Lriour^n  the  hit'  Tr^'i  "^.  ^^^  ^'*"^*'«'^  ^^s  tl.. 
sh^s;  and  CharniJa7Va"s*dHv^?    ;oltet^^  ^".^'^^ 

sharply  punished  on  his  own  ground      A  rjn?  .  ^^^'^^^  ^"^ 

closely  investing  Fort  La  Tonf  in  ?K     /S*'",*'^  ^^^ayed  the  attack, 

and  found  t\,A"JZn„Zi  C^l'fl"'"".-'"''  ""'""J  "•'">"'<!<' 
pulsed,  but  through  Z  Trethcr^°'„,'''r  emT  1  r.rZ'.'l^"^  '^^ 
entrance.  Even  then  thp  hmvo  ^i^^rv,  J^ j  ^  f  .  '*^^*  gamed  an 
intrepidly  at  the  hid  of  her  faiST  ^J^"l*  ^'1^'  ^"'  '"^^  ^im  so 
honorable  terms  of  XuuLion^h  "^^".^  1^1^  *^^  ^"^^^^^  ^^ered 
of  her  brave  followers  Vo7n'nnorh''frr^'^  *^r'  *«  '^^^  ^^e  lives 
the  garrison  laid  down  thdr  arn"  tlun  GlL7u''''u  been  signed,  and 
of  them  but  one,  whom  he  forced  to  ^.f  If  ^  ^^""""^  ^^"'"^  '"^^ 
rades;  and  Lady  La  TourhHed  to  thp  .«n  '"  T^'  *^  ^'^'^  °°™- 
her  neck,  and  compelled  her  to  %1      ^1 '''''  '"'^^  *  halter  round 

destroyed  her  husCtinrd  and  ^""^ill'^rrT    .V^"^.'^"^^ 
her  followers  ever  present  in  W  ZJ       '    tJH  Zombie  fate  of 

gave  way  and  she  d^d  witWn  a  few'^TnThs    ''/hi^/'^"?  'f>*^ 
made  the  subject  of  a  spirited  ballad  by  Whmier."       ''"'^  ^^  ^^^" 

Prom  the  days  of  La  Tour  to  1763  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John  was 
the  latte   year  the  territory  of  northern  Acadia,  now  New  Brunswick 

ha"  sta?;f.'  '•  ^°""'^"'-     "'^^^  '^''^  -^"-  ''-  James  ZndJ 
had  started  fisher.es  on  the  harbor,  but  had  been  driven  away  bv  the 

nd  a" J:  f^'J— ' -th  Mr.  James  White,  Captain  Peatd'v 
and  a  party  of  fishermen,  he  repeated  his  attempt,  and  succeeded  in 
estabhshmg  a  little  settlement.  In  1775,  during  the  Amer  ^n  Re  ol" 
t>on  an  expedzt  on  of  Americans  from  Maine  plundered  the  village  aid 
d  troyed  the  old  French  fort.  Then  in  the  gray  morning  of  ^yZ 
iV83,took  place  the  "Landing  of  the  Loyalists";  and  on  the  Jim 
pemnsula  of  gray  rock  arose,  as  it  were  in  a  nigh  ,  a  city  o    n e'a  ,y 


•if 

I  41 


f 


i! 


138 


ST.   JOHN. 


5,()0v'.'  inhabitants.  Its  first  name  was  Parrtown,  which,  fortunately,  was 
soon  discarded  for  the  present  more  dignified  and  musical  appellation. 
The  nursling  of  the  waters  and  tlie  fogs,  St.  John  has  found  her 
most  relentless  adversary  in  fire.  In  1837  she  suffered  from  this 
scourge  the  loss  of  over  a  hundred  buildings;  and  thereafter  like 
calamities  foil  upon  her  from  time  to  time,  till  the  climax  was  reached 
in  the  great  fire  of  June  20,  1877,  which  wiped  out  a  full  third  of  the 
city.  This  catastrophe  has  been  described  elsewhere  by  the  present 
writer,  as  follows : 

Nine  hours  sufficed  for  the  swallowing  of  1,612  buildings  in  the 
fiery  vortex.     The  rocks  held  and  multiniied  the  furious  heat  till  the 
streets  glowed  as  a  furnace,  and  the  most  massive  structures  of  cranite 
crumbled  to  powder,  melting  away  swiftly  like  hoar- frost.     The  smoke 
was  vomited  up  to  the  tops  of  the  steeples,  nnd  there,  driven  on  a  level 
before  the  wind  m  rolling  surges,  formed  a  lurid  roof  which  shut  in 
the  pcrishmg  city.    The  ships  in  the  harbor  were  many  of  them  burned 
before  they  co^ld  escape  from  their  moorings.     Coals  and  hot  ashes 
were  ramed  u^on  the  villages  miles  about.     In  Fredericton,  84  miles 
distant,  the  sky  to  the  southeast  was  like  a  wall  of  hot  copper  until 
daybreak.     When  the  flames  died  out  along  the  water's  ed^-e  all  the 
city  south  of  King  Street  had  gone  down.     In  a  day  or  two  the'centers 
ot  the  streets  and  open  squares  were  cool ;  and  as  one  walked  ankle- 
deep  m  the  soft,  white  ashes,  at  eariy  morning,  the  scene  was  one  of 
most  weird  and  desolate  grandeur.     The  sun  shone  over  the  dazzlin- 
ripples  of  the  bay,  over  the  silvered  and  soundless  spaces  which  had 
been  streets,  and  against  the  unclouded  blue  the  thin  smoke-wreaths 
rising  from  the  cellars  and  mat^ses  of  ruin  took  a  soft  saffron  color 
Here  and  there  stood  bleak,  tall  chimneys,  red  and  black  and  ^^rav' 
or  thin  fragments  of  high  walls,  loop-holed  and  ragged.     At  intervals 
the  silence  was  broken  by  the  crash  of  some  masonry  that  had  held 
Itself  up  through  the  stress  of  the  trial  and  now  toppled  reluctantly  to 
Its  tall.     In  the  center  of  the  squares,  and  in  fhe  open  country  about 
the  city    were  hundreds  of  tents  and  sorry  cabins,  wherein  reigned 
a  sort  of  sullen  tumult ;  and  in  spots  a  louder  excitement,  with  piles  of 
bottles  and  flasks  close  in  view,  testified  that  some  treasures  had  been 
recovered  out  of  the  ruin  by  the  endeavor  of  willing  volunteers      On 
the  site  of  one  isolated  liquor-store,  the  debris  of  which  still  criowed 
most  fervidly  stood  a  pitiable  old  figure  poking,  with  a  long-handled 
rake,  among  the  ruins,  his  eyes  gleaming  with  delight  .vhenever  an  un- 
bi-oken  bottle  was  resurrected.     St.  John  received  prompt  and  liberal 
aid  in  her  calamity,  and  rose  from  her  fall  with  an  energy  and  vitalitv 
that  were  marvelous.     All  that  had  been  laid  waste  was  rebuilt  with 
added  splendor,  and  the  new  city  will  compare  more  than  favorably  in 
its  architecture  with  cities  many  times  its  size.     But  even  yet,  with  so 
much  of  her  capital  locked  up  in  costly  blocks,  she  feels  too  vivid  re- 
minders of  that  grievously  staggering  blow. 


^11! 


ST.    JOHN. 


139 


united  111         '  '^'''"  '"'  '^'  '''^^'"'"«  '''y  ^'  ^-^'^«"^  -e'-e 

un  ted  under  one  c.v.c  govcrnn,ent-a  step  which  has  given  a  great  im 

pulse  to  the  city's  prosperity.     The  harbor  of  St.  /ohn  Is  perf L "v 
sheltered  and  kept  clear  of  ice  in  the  severest  winters  by  the  treZn 
dous  Jundyc.de  and  the  great  current  of  the  St.  John  River     It  Js 
always  thronged  with  shipping  of  all  kinds,  from  the  stub-nosed  wood 
boats-and  the  httle  red  tugs  that  rush  hither  and  thither  with  a  .reat 
black  scow  on  each  am.,  as  it  werc-to  the  stately  square-rig^ed  ^h  ns 
h.t  trade  around  Cape  Horn,  and  the  great  iron  streamer  tl     a    , 
lumber   across   the   Atlantic.       Occupying  a   high,    rockv  peninsTl7 
crowned  w.th  spires,  the  city  shows  „p  admirabl/a.;  one  approa  he    u 
b  old  J-  „  '  "'"'^  "^'  ''  ^^'^'"•'^^^  ^^"-     Behind  it  lies  tl 

thetdm  n  rV^r^r-'^"""  "'  ''""'''^^  ^«^'  —  ^^^-h  we  see 
olofin"  "^AU  ^'^'"'"^'^^'•^-     The  city  is  remarkable  for  its  sober 

iTo  \-  t  '"  ^T^  '*'"'  "'  brownish-gray  wood,  producing  a  color 
effect  wh.ch  ,s  good  under  a  clear  sky,  but  dismal  enough  when  the  fo" 
toll  I  f ---tain  over  the  city,  to  hang,  ^  ,  netimes,  for  day^ 

together,  and  touch  the  con.plexions  of  the  St.  John  women  with  that 
br.gl.t  yet  dehcate  bloom  for  which  they  are  renowned.  There  is  mil 
to  be  sa.d  m  favor  of  the  fog;  bu.  most  depressing  is  the  deep,  sep.U 
chral  vo.ce  of  the  fog-horn  at  th.  harbor  mouth,  whose  periodic  note 
«ecms  o  Kssue  with  painful  effort  from  a  throat  which  the  fo.  is  chot 
mg.  About  the  head  of  the  harbor,  where  all  available  space  by  the 
water's  edge, s  occupied  by  shrieking  saw-mills,  the  bank  sweeps  in  a 
lotty  r.dge  till  ,t  seems  to  n.eet  the  Carlclon  shore.  Carleton  is  a  din-.y 
and  busy  and  superlatively  rocky  suburb  of  St.  John,  occupyino-  the 
western  side  of  the  harbor.  ^    " 

One  of  the  most  effective  streets  in  Canada  is  Kinff  Street,  St.  John. 

i?clLbr;    T  "  ''"  """'*''  '"'  ""^'  ^'^  '^*h  ^^^-  by  fine  shops, 
chmbs  straight  up  a  steep  hill  from  the  harbor,  and  ternunates  in 
the  dark  fohage  of  King  Square.     At  its  water-foot  is  "  Market  Slip  " 
where,  at  low  tide,  a  flock  of  wood-boats,  fishing-smacks,  and  small 
schooners,  are  gathered  on  the  long,  black  slope  of  ooze,     kxt  in  im- 
por  ance  to  King  is  Prince  William  Street,  running  southward  at  right 
angles  to  it  to  the  water's  edge  at  Reed^s  Point.     On  Prince  William 
^r.  r  "^"^  «'^!,^""dings,  chief  of  which  is  the  splendid  Custom. 
Hou.e,  the  finest  building  of  the  sort  in  the  Maritime  Provinces      It  is 
bmlt  of  a  rich-toned  sandstone,  from  the  quarries  near  Dorchester 
The  Posf.OJ,ee,  City  Hall,  and  Banks  of  New  Brunswick  and  ^fontreal 


140 


ST.   JOHN. 


are  exceedingly  handsome  new  buildings,  all  put  up  since  the  fire. 
Near  Prince  William,  on  the  corner  of  Germain  and  Princess  Sts., 
stands  the  handsome  new  building  of  St.  John's  chief  club,  the  Union.' 
On  Germain  St,  and  extending  through  to  Charlotte,  is  the  magnifi- 
cent  pile  of  Triniti/  Church,  built  of  a  light-gray  store,  and  rendered 
doubly  effective  by  the  long  and  steep  approach  that  leads  to  its  main 
entrance.  In  the  steeple  is  a  remarkably  fine  chime  of  bells.  Near  by 
is  Queen  Square,  commanding  a  lovely  view  seaward,  and  faced  by  some 
stately  private  residences.  Just  off  this  square  is  a  veritable  palace  of 
gray  stone,  the  hou.e  of  one  of  St.  John's  wealthiest  merchants.  This 
building,  in  its  simple,  massive,  and  harmonious  proportions,  is,  per- 
haps,  from  an  architectual  point  of  view,  the  best  private  house  in 
Canada.  A  little  east  of  the  square  is  the  Wigffins  Male  Orphan  In. 
stitution,  a  really  beautiful  structure  of  red  and  gray  sandstone.  By  a 
short  walk  southward,  toward  the  water,  we  reach  the  spacious  Military 
and  Exhibition  Grounds,  formerly  occupied  by  British  troops,  but  now 
the  resort  of  ci-icketers  and  ball-players. 

King  Square,  already  mentioned,  is  the  most  popular  of  the  city's 
breathing-places.    Its  three  acres  are  set  with  shade-trees,  and  in  the 
center  plays  a  fountain.    Just  beyond  ana  adjoining  it  is  the  old  Bury- 
ing-Ground,  whose  tombstones  are  of  interest  to  the  antiquarian  and 
the  searchers  of  epitaphs.     North  of  King  St.,  between  Germain  and 
Chariotte,  lies  the  fine,  spacious  building  of  the  city  market.     On 
Charlotte  St.  also  is  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  buildin- 
whose  library  and  reading-room  are  open  from  nine  in  the  morning 
till  ten  at  night.    At  the  head  of  Germain  Street,  on  an  imposing  site, 
stands  the  old  Stone  Church,  and  close  beside  it  Calvin  Church  and  the 
wooden  building  of  tlie  Mechanics'  Institute.     Some  distance  east  fr     i 
King  Square,  on  Waterloo  St.,  stands  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral, 
the  largest  church  in  New  Brunswick.     This  is  a  beautiful  structure  in 
pointed  Gothic,  built  in  a  striking  combination  of  freestone  and  marble. 
Its  spire  soars  magnificently  over  the  surrounding  buildings.     The  in- 
terior is  massive  and  severe,  and  the  stained-glass  windows  are  exceed- 
ingly good.    The  length  of  the  cathedral  =8  200  ft.  and  its  width  at  the 
transepts  1 10  ft.    Over  one  of  the  great  do  ,rs  is  a  fine  marble  bas-relief 
of  the  Last  Supper.     Adjoining  the  cathedral  are  the  Bishop's  Palace 
and  the  Orphan  Asylum,  on  Cliff  St.,  and  on  the  other  side  the  grim, 
brick  pile  of  the  Nunnery.    By  way  of  Waterloo  St.  we  reach  the' 
conspicuous  building  of  the  General  Hospital,  which  occupies  the  crest 


ST.   JOHN. 


141 


.  Of  a  rocky  hill,  overlooking  the  valley  by  which  the  Intercolonial  Rams 
access  to  St.  John.  At  this  point  the  valley  is  a  deep  and  thickly, 
peopled  ravine  dividing  the  main  portion  of  the  city  from  the  lofty  line 
of  Portland  Hdghta,  among  whose  harren  rocks  perch  airily  many 
handsome  villas,  and  the  ambitious  pile  of  Reed's  Castle  In  the 
valley  he  the  skating-rink,  the  Owen's  Art  School,  the  brick  Church  of 
St.  Stephen,  and  the  tall,  wooden  structure  of  St.  Paul's,  familiarly 
known  as  the  Valley  Church.  Besides  the  churches  already  mentioned 
there  are  a  number  of  other  handsome  ecclesiastical  structures  in  the' 
city. 

Conspicuous  among  the  Portland  Heights  is  the  bald  eminence  of 
Fort  Howe  Hdl,  surmounted  by  a  battery  of  heavy  guns,  and  command- 
ing a  magnificent  view  of  the  city  and  harbor.    On  its  naked  slopes 
one  may  conveniently  observe  the  character  of  the  rocks  on  which  St 
John  IS  built;  and  one  ceases  to  wonder  that  the  hand  of  man  has  not 
yet  reduced  St.  John  to  a  level.    Many  of  the  city  streets,  as  it  is,  have 
been  blasted  and  hewn  at  great  cost  out  of  the  solid  rock,  which  in 
many  places  towers  high  and  black  above  the  roofs,  and  greatly  re 
stncts  the  citizens'  back  yards.     In  walking  about  St.  John  one  is 
always  going  up  or  down  hill_a  circumstance  which  most  visitors  find 
wearisome,  but  which  perhaps  accounts  ;n  some  degree  for  the  elastic 
and  well-balanced  figures  of  St.  John  women. 

Carleton,  across  the  harbor  from  St.  John,  and  reached  by  way  of 
the  ferry,  or  the  Suspension  Bridge  over  the  Falls,  is  interesting  for  its 
Lunatic  Asylum,  its  Martello  Towers,  its  sea-bathing,  and  its  unusual 
ugUness.  Far  down  the  Carleton  shore  of  the  harbor  stretches  a  Ion- 
hue  of  rocky  flats,  left  naked  at  low  tide,  and  adorned  with  the  Ion-  pict"- 
uresque  gray  lines  of  the  hcrring-weirs.  At  the  extremity  of  th"  flats 
rises  a  \ohy  white  structure  known  as  "The  Bracon,"  which  resembles 
at  high  tide  a  high-decked  river  steamer.  A  little  way  out  beyond  the 
Beacon  lies  the  black,  steep  mass  of  Partridge  Island,  the  home  of  the 
fog-horn  a..d  the  lighthouse,  and  the  bulwark  that  shields  the  harbor 
from  the  rage  of  Fundy's  waves. 

The  chief  business  of  St.  John  is  ship-building,  and  the  shipping 
of  lumber  and  plaster ;  but  besides  these  industries  it  has  large  manu" 
facturing  interests,  particularly  in  iron  castings,  and  the  manufacture 
of  nails,  boots  and  shoes,  cotton,  and  cars  and  machinery.  The  citv  also 
conducts  important  herring,  gaspereaux,  and  shad  fisheries.  From  the 
port  of  St.  John  run  steamship  lines  in  every  possible  direction-across 


142 


UP   THE   RIVB:k   8T.    JOHN. 


the  Atlantic  ;  along  the  American  coast  to  Eastport,  Portland,  Boston, 
and  New  York  ;  around  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  Scotia;  up  the  Bay 
of  Fundy  to  Parrsboro  and  Windsor;  up  the  river  St.  John  and  its  navi- 
gable tributaries.  Of  these  lines,  those  of  special  interest  to  the  tour- 
ist are  the  International  S.  S.  Co.,  whose  splendid  side-whecl  steamers 
run  along  the  coast  to  Portland  and  Boston ;  the  Bay  of  Fundy  S.  S. 
Co.,  whose  fine  steamer  Citi(  of  Monticello  runs  across  the  bay  to  Digby 
and  Annapolis ;  and  the  Union  Line,  plying  between  St.  John  Ind 
Fredericton.  The  railways  centering  at  St.  John  are  the  Intercolonial, 
the  Canadian  Pacific,  and  the  Grand  Southern. 


Up  the  River  St.  John. 

From  St.  John  to  Fredericton  we  may  go  comfortably  and  expe- 
ditiously by  the  trains  of  the  C.  P.  R.  R.,  a  distance  of  56  miles ;  but 
the  tourist  should  go  by  boat  to  Fredericton,  and  there  take  the  C.  P.  R.  R. 
for  the  upper  portions  of  the  river.  To  Fredericton  by  water  the  dis- 
tance is  84  miles,  through  such  varied  and  beautiful  scenery  as  has 
earned  for  the  river  St.  John  the  somewhat  extravagant  and  mislead- 
ing appellation  of  the  Rhine  of  America.  The  scenery  of  the  St.  John 
possesses  indeed  diversity,  breadth,  and  magnificence ;  but  it  lacks  the 
"  castled  crags  "  which  give  their  chief  charm  to  the  banks  of  the  Rhine. 

The  steamers  of  the  Union  Line  are  the  David  Westcn  and  the 
Acadia,  which  leave  St.  John  on  alternate  days.  Both  are  comfort- 
able steamers,  but  the  David  Weston  is  much  the  finer  and  faster 
boat,  and  the  traveler  will  do  well  to  await  her  day.  Passengers  are 
taken  aboard  at  the  suburb  of  Indiantoivn  above  the  Falls ;  but  at  cer- 
tain times  of  the  tide  the  steamer  runs  down  through  the  falls  to  take 
on  freight  at  the  city  wharves.  It  is  well  worth  one's  while  to  find  out 
the  hour,  varying  with  the  tide,  at  which  the  boat  goes  back  to  Indian- 
town,  and  make  the  trip  up  through  the  gorge  and  beneath  the  bridges. 
The  fare  by  boat  to  Fredericton  ii  |1 ;  by  rail  $2,  and  return  $3. 

The  gorge  is  spanned  at  its  narrowest  portion  by  a  suspension 
bridge  and  by  a  splendid  new  railway  bridge  built  on  the  cantilever 
system.    Just  above  the  bridges  are  the  Falls. 

This  remarkable  phenomenon  was  described  as  follows  by  the  pres- 
ent writer  in  the  pages  of  Picturesque  Canada :  This  cataract  is  of 
interest  even  to  one  satiated  with  cataracts.  It  is  worth  gettin"- 
up  at  daybreak  to  become  acquainted  with,  for  it  stands  almost  alone 


UP   THE   RIVER    ST.    JOHN. 


143 


among  waterfalls  in  being  rcverBible.     At  one  time  it  falls  in  nnn 
duection,  ,n  a  few  hours  it  is  falling  in  the  other  dTeetionYl^o 

anTbXo7:r''thL  •''""  ;'*"■•"'"'  ^^"'•«^'  '^  -"'«  the  Ser  VnaH? 
het'Z^  1h'  ^"'U'^''  f  ^^'^  g«'-S«'  y«"  «ee  aXid  srfaooTecke  l" 

^i^s  Ws- f  -rti:^^  ^^:^  -^-3 

of  stone-throws  across  spanned  by  a  suspension  bridge^   wTentheX 
tide  has  emptied  the  harbor,  the  accumulated  rivet  waters  faU  through 

nver  .s  so  far  successful  that  it  holds  its  freedom,  and  can 'never  ho 
subjugated  ,nto  a  tidal  river  with  drowned  shores 'and  banks  of  o„ze 
The  St.  Jolin  IS  able  to  guard  its  narrow  pass.     Were  the  -ate  to  h^ 
thrown  wide  open,  as  are  those  of  other  rivers,  the  babarou    hordes 

New  B^utrk.'  °"^"''''" """  °°  ""^^  °f  *^^  low-iyingU:;':? 

Leaving  the  wharf  at  Indiantown,  and  pa8^.ng  the  high  limestone 
quarries  of  Boar's  Head,  we  steam  up  through  the  narrows,  whose  pre- 
cipitous  walls  of  many-colored  rock  resemble,  in  all  but  hue  a  some 
what  diminished  bit  of  Saguenay  scenery,  though  the  deep  river  flowin- 
between  them  teems  with  traffic.     The  cliffs  are  jagged  and  splintered 
and  piled  up  magnificently ;  and  we  recall  the  theorv  that  the  path  we 
are  now  following  is  not  the  outlet  by  which  the  St.'john  in  old  times 
sought  the  sea.    It  is  surmised  that  the  river  had  anciently  two  mouths 
the  one  leading  from  Grand  Bay  through  the  low  lands  west  of  Carle-' 
ton,  the  other  from  the  Kennebecasis  down  through  the  "Valley"  be 
twcen  St.  John  and  the  Portland  Heights.    The  present  channel  seems 
to  have  been  formed  by  a  violent  rending  asunder  of  the  hills,  which 
was  probably  accomplished   by  the   same   terrific   convulsion   which 
raised  all  the  coast  west  from  St.  John  30  ft.  above  its  former  level 
The  Indians  say  that  the  Great  Spirit  once  grew  angry  with  the  river 
for  Its  arrogance  and  dosed  the  passes  against  it.     They  have  another 


144 


€P   THE    RIVKR   ST.    JOHN. 


legend  to  the  eflfect  that  a  j;reat  beaver  appeared  upon  the  earth  and  In 
one  night  built  a  dam  atro.ss  the  outlet  and  drowned  all  the  people  of 
the  inland  regions.  The  eountry  about  the  mouth  of  the  river  (called 
by  the  EteheminH  "Oolastook"  and  by  the  Micmucs  "Ouangondy") 
Irt  rich  in  traditions  of  the  demigod  Gluskilp,  who  hud  his  ehief 
abode  here  and  called  it  Menagwes. 

MENAVJWE8. 

(JhiHkflp,  the  friend  and  father  of  bin  race, 

Prom  MenaffwcB,  his  kindly  dwelling-place, 

With  help  In  need  went  journeying  three  days'  »pace; 

And  MciiaKwee,  left  empty  of  IiIb  mm, 

Naked  of  that  wise  might,  its  whleld  from  harm 

Leaned  on  his  name  and  dreaded  no  alarm. 

But  evil  spirits  watche<l  his  outward  path- 
Such  enemies  a  good  man  always  hath— 
And  marked  his  fenceless  dwelling  for  their  wrath. 

With  shock  of  thundur  and  the  lightning's  slings, 
And  flame,  and  hail,  and  all  disastrous  things, 
They  came  upon  the  tempest's  midnight  wings. 

When  home  at  length  the  hero  turned  again, 
His  huts  were  ashes  and  his  servants  slain, 
And  o'er  the  ruin  wept  a  slow,  great  rain. 

His  own  heart  wept  for  sorrow;  but  no  word 
He  spent  in  wailing.    With  dread  anger  stirred 
He  cried  across  the  sea— and  the  sea  heard— 

And  sent  great  whales,  that  bare  him  from  the  strand, 
And,  bending  to  the  guidance  of  his  hand, 
Made  swift  and  sure  his  path  to  Newfoundland. 

In  vast  morass,  and  misty  solitude. 

And  high  clifl'-cavern  lurked  the  evil  brood, 

Mocking  at  vengeance  in  derieive  mood. 

But  scarce  the  hero's  foot  had  touched  the  coast 
When  horror  seized  on  all  the  wizard  host, 
And  in  their  hiding-places  hushed  the  boast. 

He  towered  before  them,  gathering  like  a  cloud 
That  blackens  day;  and  when  their  fear  grew  loud. 
His  vengeance  came  about  them  like  a  shroud. 

Tuen  seeing  that  his  utmost  vengeance  kept 
Nojspell  to  break  the  sleep  his  servants  slept, 
Gluskap  returned  to  Menagwes  and  wept. 


w■*^-■leLl^^H^M^■B!.■n: 


UP  THE   RIVER   8T.   JOHN. 


145 


The  St.  John  River,  ho  called  by  Champlain  because  it  was  dU. 
covered  on  St.  John's  Day,  1604,  has  a  eourse  of  about  46.)  milen  of 
w^neh  the  lower  225  u.ile.s  he  within  the  province.  It  h  navigabl^  to 
FreJencto.,  84  n.iles  from  the  u.outh,  and  for  light-draught  stern, 
wheel  steamers  76  miles  farther,  to  Woocktock.  It  receives  a  n.unber 
of  large  tributaries,  and  drains  a  highly  fertile  fanning  and  timber 
country.  " 

Abo.it  3  miles  above  Indiantown  our  steamer  emerge^  from  the 
narrows  into  the  9.miles-broad  expanse  of  Grand  Bay  On  our  richt 
between  two  high  and  rounde.l  headlands,  lies  the  mouth  of  the  Kenne^ 
becasjs,  on  whose  splendid  rowing-course  took  place  the  fan.ous  boat- 
race  between  the  "Paris  erew."  of  St.  John  (so  called  from  its  eon- 
quest  of  the  world's  championship  at  Paris),  and  the  Tyne  crew,  from 
the  north  of  England-a  struggle  in  which  Renforth,  tlie  stroke  of  the 
Tyne  crew  lost  his  life.  Behind  us,  to  the  left,  stretches  the  ample 
basin  of  South  Bay,  ever  crowded  with  rafts  and  set  about  with  saw- 

QllUs. 

■     As  we  cross  Grand  Bay  the  river  shores  again  draw  together      In 
the  fresh  light  of  the  morning  wonderfully  beautiful  is  the  contrast 
between  the  high  shores  of  vivid  green,  dotted  with  glittering  white 
farm-houses,  the  fringing  yellow  beach,  and  the  deep  blue  of  the 
ruffled  nver.     Soon  after  passing  the  landing-place,  called  Hrundaae^s 
we  enter  the  Ung  Reach  where,  for  a  distance  of  20  miles  the  river 
pursues  an  almost  straight  course  between  high  shores  from  3  to  6 
miles  apart.    These  shores  consist  of  beautiful  round  d  hills    some 
cultivated,  some  richly  wooded,  diversified  by  fairy  valleys  and 'sleepy 
villages  and  bits  of  meadow.    The  magnificent  expanse  of  the  river  is 
dotted  with  the  sails  of  wood-boats,  yachts,  and  schooner.s;  and  there 
are  usually  several  little  steamers  in  sight,  busy  hauling  rafts  of  lo-s 
to  the  saw-mills.     As  we  near  a  point.of  land  a  boat  puts  out  to  meet 
us,  and  the  steamer,  with  a  hoarse  whistle,  slackens  speed.    As  the 
boat  approaches,  its  bow  high  out  of  water,  we  see  that  it  is  propelled 
by  a  solitary  waterman,  and  carries  in  its  stern  a  woman,  dressed  in  hor 
best  and  holding  an  ancient,  black  parasol  over  herself  and  a  box  of 
codfish,  which  latter  is  probably  a  consignment  for  some  secluded 
grocery  farther  up  stream.    Vigorously  our  paddles  reverse  as  the  little 
craft  closes  in  perilously  beneath  our  high,  white  side.     Her  bow  is 
grappled  with  the  iron  beak  of  a  pike-pole,  she  is  held  firmly  to  the 
gangway  for  a  moment,  and  codfish  and  female  are  nimbly  transferred 


»«* 


■fX 


146 


VV  THE   BIVER  ST.   JOHK. 


to  our  lower  dock.     In  nnother  minute  we  nre  once  more  throbbing 
onward,  while  th.'  nkift  dnncoa  in  our  wake  like  an  eccentric  cork. 

On  the  western  nhorc  of  Long  Reach,  17  miles  from  St.  John,  Iii«H 
the  lovely  .summer  resort  of  Wen/field.     Two  miies  farther  is  the  land- 
ing of  (Jreenwich  Hill.     Six  miloH  beyond  h  Oak  Point,  a  hamlet  of 
mo.st  unusual  beauty.     Between  Greenwich  Hill  and  Oak  Point,  on  the 
same  shore,  is  the  lofty  wooded  ridge  called  the  Devil's  Hack.     At  the 
head  of  the  reach  is  a  cluster  of  higli,  rocky  islands  eovered  with  birch 
and  fir.    The  typical  Island  of  St.  John,  of  which  we  shall  pass  so  many 
that  we  may  as  well  dispose  of  them  all  at  once,  is  a  large  or  sniaH 
fragment  of  alluvial  meadow  called  "  interval,"  fringed  with  a'der  and 
Indian  willow,  and  dotted  with  here  and  there  a  splendid  elm,  and  heie 
and  there  a  haystack.     One  of  these  islands  which  we  shall  pass  is 
Httle  more  than  the  bushy  rim  to  a  broad  pool,  where  ducks  and  herons 
chiefly  congregate.     "  The  Mistake  "  is  a  long,  narrow  peninstda  much 
resembling  an  island,  and  when  the  unwary  navigator  has  traveled  2 
or  «  miles  up  the  inlet  which  separates  it  from  the  western  shore  he 
realizes  vividly  the  appropriateness  of  the  name.     Just  above  the  Mis- 
take,  on  the  east  shore,  is  the  deep  inlet  of  lielloisle  Bay,  a  mile  wide 
and  14  miles  long.     An  arm  of  this  bay  is  Kingston  Creek,  at  the  head 
of  which  among  the  hills  lies  the  secluded  and  romantic  village  of 
Kingston.     Near  Kingston  is  a  remarkable  little  lake  called  Pickwaa- 
keet,  which  occupies  the  crater  of  aii  extinct  volcano.     River  landings 
at  which  the  steamer  calls  after  leaving  the  village  ol  Tennant's  Cove 
(29  miles)  at  the  mouth  of  Belleisle  Bay,  are  Wickham  (32  miles), 
Hampstead  (36  miles),  and  Otnabog  (41  miles),  at  the  outlet  of  Otna- 
bog  Lake.     Then  we  pass  the  Lower  Musquash  Island,  behind  which, 
on  the  east  shore,  hides  the  deep  mouth  of  the  Washademoak,  which  is 
a  sort  of  a  compromise  between  a  river  and  a  lake,  and  has  a  rich 
farming  region  about  its  shores.    After  passing  the  Upper  Musquash 
Island  the  steamer  turns  into  a  cove  on  the  west  shore  and  draws  up 
to  the  wharf  of  Gagetown,  60  miles  from  St.  John.     This  sleepiest  of 
river  villages  is  the  shire  town  of  Queen's  County,  and  seems  the  exact 
counterpart  of  Robert  Buchanan's  "  Drowsy  town  " : 

"  Oh,  BO  drowsy  !    In  a  daze 
Sweating  'mid  the  golden  haze, 
With  its  one  white  row  of  street 
Carpeted  so  green  and  sweet, 
And  the  loungers  smoking  still 
Over  gate  and  window-sill ; 


i    : 


■I    I 


nwjw<»ii'ji'j>'..'iwii,ii»ii.inpi]%i»nii»n^aaiBi 


ill'i'r'iii'i'         '   -I- 


IfiilV'';,:"  ■':,:,  I '1' iiiinii 


i!|K. 


J* 


•-  '^i  ■ 


.;*->•    -  t 


UP   THE   EIVEE   OT.   JOHN.  147 

Nothing  coming,  nothing  going, 

Locusts  grating,  one  cock  crowing,  ' 

Few  things  moving  up  or  down, 

All  things  drowsy— Drowsytown." 

Leavinc  Gagetown  the  steamer  heads  do*vn  river  a  short  distance 
ordeT  to  round  the  foot  of  Grimross  Island,  and  passes  on  the  cast 
shore  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  River,  which  the  inhabitants  call  the 
Jumsack.  This  deep,  narrow,  and  sluggish  stream  is  the  outlet  of 
Grand  Lake,  a  fine  body  of  water  30  miles  in  length,  surrounded  by  a 
rich  agricultural  and  coal-bearing  region.  The  shores  of  the  lake 
abound  in  fossils.  The  Jemseg  banks  are  clothed  with  historic  asso 
ciations.  In  1640  a  strong  fort  was  erected  at  the  mouth.  This  was 
captured  by  an  English  expedition  in  1654,  but  restored  to  the  French 

n  \    \  !r  V.".^  '^"  ^"'^'''''^  "^  '^'"'''^  «^"*^^"^d  116  inhabitants. 
Under  M.  de  Villebon  it  was  made  ihe  capital  of  Acadia,  an  honor 
which  was  afterward  transferred  to  Fort  Nashwaak,  opposite  the  point 
of  land  now  occupied  by  Fredericton.     In  1776  an  army  of  600  In 
dians  gathered  on  the  Jemseg,  to  lay  waste  all  the  settlements  of  the 
St.  John  Valley ;  but  the  firmness  of  the  Oromocto  settlers  overawed 
them,  and  they  suffered  themselves  to  be  mollified  with  presents     A 
little  above  Gagetown  we  enter  the  county  of -Sunbury,  which  once 
comprised  the  whole  of  New  Brunswick,  but  is  now  the  smallest  of  her 
counties     It  is  also  the  most  fertile.    Its  low,  rich  meadows  are  cov- 
ered with  water  in  the  spring  freshets,  when  the  inhabitants  move  about 
in  skiffs,  the  row-boat  instead  of  the  carriage  is  brought  to  the  front 
door  the  children  explore  in  wash-tubs  the  farthermost  recesses  of 
the  farm-yard,  and  the  farmer  sets  his  nets  for  gasporeaux  where  a 
httle  later  he  will  be  plowing  and  planting  in  a  hot  sun  with  no  drop 
ol  water  la  sight  save  what  he  carries  in  his  tin  bucket.    Passin- 
Mauger's  Island  we  see  oii  our  left  the  village  church  of  Burton,  on  our 
right  the  white  walls  of  Sheffield  Academy,  now  the  County  Grammar 
bchool.     A  little  beyond,  on  the  right  shore,  lies  the  scattered  village 

.^rr?      ^J^""^  '*'  ^*"°^''  '^''  fir«t  English-speaking  settlement 
established  m  New  Brunswick.     It  was  planted  in  1763  by  pioneers 
from  the  parishes  of  Rowley,  Boxford,  and  Andover,  in  Massachusetts 
and  speedily  became  a  flourishing  community.     During  the  Revolution 
the  mhabitants  declared  for  the  Americans,  and  all  but  twelve  of  them 
signed  resolutions  reoudiatinjr  firont  nn'taJn     lU"— -i------        •.• 

arms  and  ammunition,  and  in  an  outburst  of  warlike  fervor  the  Mau- 


us 


FREDERICTON. 


gcrvillians  organized  an  expedition  against  Fort  Cu.nabt'iliind  on  the 
Isthnnis  of  Cliigneeto.  There  they  found  a  schooner  stranded  on  the 
mud,  and  this  easy  prize  they  captured ;  but  the  sight  of  the  fort  dis- 
ninycd  them,  and  they  altered  their  intention  of  carrying  it  by  storm. 
The  schooner  they  took  away  and  sold.  They  were  afterward  com- 
pelled to  make  restitution  to  the  vessel's  owners ;  but,  this  d(me,  a 
lenient  Government  indulgently  overlooked  their  folly. 

Just  above  Maugerville,  on  the  opposite  shore,  lies  the  county  town 
of  Sunbury,  the  village  of  Oromoclo,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oromocto 
River.  Here  of  old  stood  a  fort  for  protection  against  the  Indians. 
The  Oromocto  is  a  deep  and  narrow  stream,  navigable  for  small  craft 
a  distance  of  22  miles.  On  its  upper  waters,  and  particularly  in  Oro- 
mocto Lake,  there  is  excellent  trout-fishing.  In  its  lower  reaches  pick- 
erel abound.  Off  the  mouth  of  the  river  lie  Thatch  Island  and  the  great 
meadowy  expanse  of  Oromocto  Island.  Here  we  are  74  miles  from  St. 
John  and  about  10  miles  from  Fredericton.  Five  miles  farther  up  the 
boat  calls  at  the  interminable  booms  of  Ghsier^s,  where  logs  from  up 
river  are  put  together  into  rafts  to  be  towed  to  St.  John.  Along  toward 
the  middle  of  the  afternoon  we  catch  sight  of  the  smoke  which  rises 
over  "  The  Mills,"  a  mile  below  Fredericton.  Then  the  river  widens 
out,  and  over  its  shining  expanse  we  see  the  long  bridges,  the  spires, 
and  the  billowy  foliage  of  the  city  of  elms,  Fredericton,  which  is  called 
by  New-Brunswickers,  in  affectionate  banter,  the  "  Celestial  City." 


Fredericton* 

The  population  of  Fredericton  (estimated)  is  8,000.  The  chief  hotels 
are  the  Quccii\'i  and  Barker  House.  Cab  fares  are  25  cts.  for  a  course 
within  the  city.  The  livery  stables  of  Fredericton  are  good  and  much 
patronized,  and  the  cliaiges  very  moderate.  The  fare  between  Freder- 
icton  and  St.  John  by  boat  is  only  |1.  Fare  by  rail  to  Woodstock, 
|2;  Grand  Fulls,  |i8.S0 ;  Edmundson,  $4,80;  return,  $3,  $5.70,  and 
$7.20.  Fare  to  St.  Stephen,  |3.15  ;  St.  Andrews,  $3.2C  ;  return,  $4.75 
and  $4.90. 

The  history  of  Fredericton  begins  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nashwaak^ 
an  important  tributary  of  the  St.  John,  which  flows  in  immediately  op- 
posite Fredericton.  Hither  in  1692  came  Yillebon,  from  the  Jemseg, 
to  be  nearer  bis  Melicite  allies.  Here  he  built  a  large  and  well-stock- 
aded fort,  which  in  the  autumn  of  1696  was  attacked  by  the  New-Eng- 

lAiivivFcy  uuuci  wtvuci  xiaTTtuviuc  ttiiu  uiu  x^CujUIIilD  V^UUX'Cn.      V  lil^UOn, 


PREDERTCTON". 


149 


beinsc  forewarned,  was  forearmed.    That  redoubtable  ecclesiastic,  Father 
Simon,  brought  thirty-six  of  his  Medodcc  warriors  to  swell  the  garrison, 
and  all  was  enthusiasm  within  the  fort.    The  New-Englandcrs  landed 
with  three  cannon  near  the  S.  shore  of  the  stream,  on  a  point  now  much 
frequented  by  the   schoolboys  of  Fredcricton  in  the  cherry  season. 
Truly  it  is  a  charming  spot,  and  its  cherries  are  marvelously  great  and 
sweet  and  abundant.     But  the  New-Englanders  found  little  pleasure 
therein.     The  fire  from  the  fort  by  day  dismounted  one  of  their  guns, 
and  suffered  them  not  to  work  the  others  with  any  degree  of  comfort, 
while  by  night  a  plentiful  hail  of  grape  upon  ail  such  watch-fires  as 
they  lighted  drove  them  to  sleep  unwarmed  and  wet,  whence  came  in 
the  morning  much  rheumatism  and  complaining.     The  undertaking 
became  unpopular  in  the  invaders'  camp,  and,  under  cover  of  the  next 
night,  they  forsook  it  and  fled.    In  the  autumn  of  1698  the  garrison 
was  removed  to  Fort  La  Tour,  which  had  been  rebuilt  at  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  John,  and  after  Villebon's  death  in  1700  the  Nashwaak  fort 
was  demolished.    Nothing  now  remains  to  remind  us  of  those  exciting 
though  uncomfortable  times  save  some  green  mounds  where  once  stood 
ViUebon's  ramparts,  or  a  few  rust-eaten  cannon-balls  which  the  farmer 
gathers  in  with  his  potato-crop. 

In  the  year  following  the  erection  of  New  Brunswick  into  a  province 
the  capital  was,  for  strategic  reasons,  removed  from  St.  John  to  what 
was  then  known  as  St.  Anne's  Point,  now  Fredericton.     For  a  long 
while  Fredericton  was  the  headquarters  of  a  British  regiment.     Now  it 
is  the  seat  of  a  military  school,  and  the  post  of  a  company  of  Canadian 
regulars.     Being  a  military,  political,  judicial,  educational,  and  ecclesi- 
astical center,  Fredericton  was  for  a  long  time,  from  a  comm.rcial  point 
of  view,  rather  unprogressive ;  but  within  the  last  few  years  she  has 
begun  to  throw  off  her  lethargy,  and  enlarge  both  her  trade  and  her 
population.    She  has  become  a  railroad  center,  no  fewer  than  four  lines 
radiatin-from  this  point;  and  additional  lines  are  proposed,  with  every 
prospect  of  their  construction.     She  is  the  distributing  point  for  a  large 
and  rich  agricultural  section,  the  headquarters  of  an  immense  lumber- 
trade,  of  cotton  and  leather  manufacturing,  and  of  extensive  canning 
operations.     With  a  population  of  only  about  8,000,  Fredericton  has  a 
disproportionate  share  of  public  institutions  and  fine  buildings,  and  her 
society  derives  special  individuality  and  charm  from  the  influences 
which  there  concentrate  theniselves. 

The  streets  of  Fredericton  are  broad  and  level,  overarched  for  the 


150 


FREDEEICTON. 


most  part  with  elms  of  stately  growth,  and  wearing  generally  an  air  of 
quiet  prosperity.     The  main  business  street  is  Queen  St.,  running  the 
whole  length  of  the  city  near  the  water  front.     One  side  of  this  street 
is  lined  with  shops.    The  other  side  has  business  houses  on  its  upper 
and  lower  blocks,  but  is  occupied  along  its  central  portion  by  the  Offl. 
cers'  Square  with  its  lawns  and  tennis-grounds  and  battery  of  little 
cannon,  the  gray-stone  buildings  of  the  Officers'  Quarters,  the  hand- 
some new  Post-Office  and   Custom-IIouse,  the  Barracks  and  Parade 
Ground,  the  graceful  red  brick  structure  of  the  Provincial  Normal 
School,  and  the  stiff  brick  block  of  the  new  City  Hall,  with  its  clock- 
tower  over  the  front  and  a  ludicrous  little  perky  appendage,  like  a 
rudimentary  tail,  sticking  up  on  its  rear.     From  just  above  the  Post- 
Office  the  long  white  structure  of  the  passenger  bridge  runs  across  the 
river  to  the  suburban  village  of  Sf.  Mary's,  on  whose  outskirts  hangs 
an  interesting  little  settlement  of  Mellcite  Indians,  some  of  whom  are 
famous  hunter?,,  guides,  and  canoe-men.     Near  the  lower  end  of  Queen 
St.,  where  it  is  joined  by  King  and  Brunswick,  stands  the  beautiful  little 
Anglican  cathedral  of  the  diocese  of  Fredericton.  This  is  a  harmoniously 
proportioned  structure  in  pure  Gothic,  built  of  gray-stone  with  window- 
casings  of  white  Caen  stone.    It  occupies  the  center  of  spacious  triangular 
grounds*,  beautifully  wooded.     Just  below  it  the  river  is  crossed  by  the 
splendid  steel  bridge  which  connects  the  Canadian  Pacific  with  the  North- 
ern and  Western  R.  R.  at  the  busy  village  of  Gibson  on  the  opposite 
shore.     In  the  block  above  the  Cathedral  stand  the  new  Farliament 
and  Departmental  Buildings,  taking  the  place  of  the  old   buildings 
which  were  destroyed  by  fire.    The  main  building  is  a  handsome  and 
solid  structure  of  freestone  and  light  gray  granite,  which  would  be  en- 
tirely satisfactory  but  for  the  attenuated  dome  which  surmounts  it  and 
much  resembles  a  pepper-pot.     In  its  rear  is  the  fire-proof  library, 
containing  an  invaluable  collection  of  the  plates  of  Audubon's  "  Birds," 
once  owned  by  Louis  Philippe.   On  the  side  of  the  block  facing  St.  John 
St.  is  the  handsome  purple  sandstone  structure  containing  the  Govern- 
ment offices.    In  winter,  when  the  Provincial  Parliament  is  in  session 
this  is  a  busy  quarter  of  Fredericton. 

At  the  extreme  upper  end  of  the  city  are  the  new  Victoria  Hospi- 
tal,  and  the  severe  stone  pile  of  ixovernment  House  in  its  spacious 
grounds.  Scattered  through  the  city  are  many  churches,  of  various  de- 
nominations. The  most  noticeable  of  these  are  the  handsome  new  stone 
gtrnctures  belonging  to  the  Baptists  and  the  Presbyterians,  standing 


FREDEEICTON. 


151 


within  a  block  of  each  other  on  York  St. ;  and  the  exquisite  little  parish 
church,  called  Christ  Church,  on  the  corner  of  George  and  Westmore- 
land Sts.  This  edifice  is  of  an  Old  English  pattern,  and  carries  a  silvery 
chime  of  three  bells.  Back  of  Fredericton  rises  a  line  of  wooded 
heights,  whereon  are  some  good  private  residences,  and  the  massive 
old  building  of  the  New  Brunswick  University,  crowning  a  succession 
of  terraces.  This  was  of  old  King's  College  of  New  Brunswick,  estab- 
lished  by  royal  charter  in  1828,  under  the  auspices  of  Sir  Howard 
Douglas.  It  is  now  a  Provincial  Institution,  and  is  doing  good  work 
under  the  management  of  President  Harrison.  From  its  cupola  we 
get  a  wide  and  lovely  view.  At  our  feet  lies  the  city  in  its  billows  of 
green,  bounded  by  the  broad  and  shining  arc  of  the  St.  John.  Above 
and  below  extends  the  river,  dotted  in  the  one  direction  with  islands, 
in  the  other  with  the  sails  of  wood-boats.  Straight  across  opens 
the  fair  Nashwaak  Valley,  with  the  village  of  Marysville  in  the  dis- 
tance. Opposite  the  upper  end  of  the  city  we  mark  the  mouth  of  the 
Nashwaaksis,  or  little  Nashwaak,  which  boasts  a  pretty  cataract  some 
10  or  12  miles  from  its  mouth. 

On  the  outskirts  of  Fredericton,  half  a  mile  above  Government 
House,  stands  a  picturesque  old  mansion  called  "  2'lie  Hermitage^'' 
which  is  rapidly  falling  to  ruin.  In  the  gay  old  days  of  British  mili- 
tary and  "family  compact"  rule,  "The  Hermitage"  was  a  famous 
social  center.  Now  its  deserted  chambers  are  romantically  supposed 
to  be  haunted,  and  its  ''oacious  and  well-wooded  grounds  are  a  favorite 
resort  of  the  city's  pic  ;  parties.  Continuing  on  past  The  Hermitage, 
a  very  lovely  drive  ca.  nds  up  the  river  shore  some  4  m.  or  more  to 
the  village  of  Springhill.  Another  interesting  drive  is  across  the 
river  to  Gibson,  and  thence  up  the  valley  of  the  Nashwaak  about  3 
miles  to  the  growing  town  of  Marysville,  the  creation  of  the  gigantic 
cotton  and  lumber  mil's  of  Alexander  Gibson.  This  trip  may  be  made, 
if  one  prefers,  by  the  Northern  and  Western  R.  R.,  which  runs  through 
the  town  on  its  way  to  the  Miramichi  and  its  salmon-pools.  After  the 
>'ast  cotton-mill,  the  chief  point  of  interest  in  Marysville  is  the  gor- 
geous little  church  erected  by  Mr.  Gibson. 

With  all  the  beautiful  and  accessible  waterways  that  surround  it, 
no  wonder  Fredericton  is  the  very  home  of  the  birch-bark  canoe.  Her 
inhabitants  easily  equal,  and  often  .a  -1,  the  Indians  in  the  manage- 
ment of  this  fascinating  little  craft.  An  easy  and  charming  canoe- 
trip  may  be  taken  from  Fredericton  down  the  river  to  St.  John,  an 


|4: 


\\'\ 


I 


152 


FBEDERICTON  TO   WOODSTOCK. 


indolent  voyage,  with  no  fishing  or  hard  paddling  to  do,  and  villages 
all  along  the  way  to  supply  provisions. 


Fredericton  to  Woodstock. 

In  spring  and  autumn,  when  the  river  is  high,  the  "  storn-whcel " 
steamer  Florenccville  plies  between  Fredericton  and  Woodstock,  a 
distance  of  60  miles.     All  the  points  of  interest  along  this  route  will 
soon  be  accessible  by  rail,  as  a  line  is  under  construction  along  the 
western  shore  of  the  St.  John.     It  traverses  the  populous  settlements 
of  Prince  William  and  Queensbury,  peopled  by  descendants  of  dis- 
banded loyalist  soldiers.    The  finest  scenery  on  the  tnp  is  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Pokiok  River,  by  which  the  waters  of  Lake  George  find  outlet 
to  the  St.  John.     The  Pokiok  Falls  are  about  40  ft.  in  height ;  and 
after  this  plunge  the  river  roars  and  leap.i  through  a  g  .rgc  1,200  ft.  in 
length,  whose  perpendicular  walls,  75  ft.  high,  are  less  than  30  ft. 
apart.    The  signification  of  Pokiok  is  "  The  Dreadful  Place."     Lake 
George  is  somewhat  renowned  for  its  productive  antimony-mines.   Near 
Pokiok  is  Prince  William  Lake,  and  a  little  beyond  the  Sheogomuc 
Lake  and  River.    At  Canterbury  the  road  crosses  Eel  River,  the 
outlet  of  Eel  and  North  Lakes,  from  which  a  famous  portage  (whose 
deserted  paths  are  worn  deep  by  the  many  Indian  feet  that  trod  them 
of  old)  leads  to  the  Chiputneticook  Lakes  and  the  St.  Croix,  and  thence 
to  Passamaquoddy  Bay.     By  this  ro-4te  went  the  troops  of  Villebon 
many  a  time  to  ravage  the  New  England  borders.    Five  miles  beyond 
Eel  River  is  the  site  of  the  old  French    fort   Medoctec,  beside  the 
rapids  and  Melicite  village  of  the  same  name.     This  district  was  of 
old  the  Seignory  of  the  Sieur  Clignancourt,  and  was  held  an  important 
center,  owing  to  the  necessity  of  making  a  portage  at  this  point  to 
avoid  the  rapids.     These,  however,  the  steamer  surmounts,  as  a  rule, 
without  great  difficulty.    The  approach  to  Woodstock,  whether  by  land 
or  water,  is  picturesque  and  charming,  the  high,  rounded  hills  being 
well  tilled  and  crowned  with  groves  and  cottages.      Fare  by  boat 
12.50.  ' 

The  best  route  to  Woodstock  at  present,  available  at  all  seasons, 
is  by  the  C.  P.  R.  R.  from  Gibson.  Or  we  may  take  the  train  on  the 
Fredericton  side,  at  the  little  temporary  Bridge  Station,  soon  to  be  re- 
placed by  a  union  depot.  A  mile  above  the  station  we  pass  through 
St.  Mary's,  already  referred  to,  and  2  miles  farther  w$  cross  the  Nash- 


FEEDERICTON   TO    WOODSTOCK. 


153 


waakBis  at  Douglas  Station.  For  the  next  8  or  10  miles  we  get  fine 
views  of  river  and  islands  from  the  car-windows,  and  at  the  raouth  of 
the  Keswick  River  (called  "Kissaway  "  by  the  dwellers  on  its  banks)  a 
splendid  expanse  of  interval  country  spreads  before  our  eyes.  From 
this  point  the  railroad  climbs  the  pleasant  Keswick  Valley,  passing  a 
number  of  unimportant  stations.  Upper  Keswicic  is  28  miles  from 
Keswick.  Beyond  the  road  traverses  a  rather  desolate-looking  region, 
till  again  it  nears  the  rich  St.  John  Valley  at  Newburgh.  In  the  wilder' 
ness  it  crosses  the  Nackawic  (43  miles  from  Fredericton)  and  Falls 
Brook,  both  trout-streams.  At  Woodstock  Junction  a  branch  diverges 
and  runs  down  river  a  short  distance  to  Woodstock,  affording  vai-ied 
and  delightful  views  between  the  rounded  hills.  Over  the  high  railroad 
bridge  we  steam  slowly  into  the  progressive  little  town  of  Woodstock, 
the  shire-town  of  Carleton  County,  and  the  chief  commercial  center  ou 
the  river  above  Fredericton. 

Woodstock  has  good  hotels  in  the  Wilbur  House  and  the  Gibson 
House.  The  town  is  well  situated  on  the  uplands  at  the  junction  of 
the  Maduxnakeag  stream  with  the  St.  John,  and  has  a  rich  farming 
country  behind  it  supplying  a  large  local  trade.  Its  3,000  or  so  of  in" 
habitants  are  plucky  and  enterprising,  and  have  recovered  bravely 
from  the  losses  to  which  they  have  been  subjected  by  numerous  fires. 
Around  the  mouth  of  the  Maduxnakeag  is  a  cluster  of  saw-mills.  A 
short  distance  above  the  town  are  the  now  abandoned  iron-mines, 
where  a  peculiarly  dense  and  hard  quality  of  iron  was  formerly  ex- 
tracted. The  village  of  Upper  Woodstock  is  familiarly  and  disre- 
spectfully known  as  "  Hardscrabble."  The  whole  district  is  peculiarly 
adapted  lo  the  growth  of  grain  and  fruit,  and  is  sometimes  called 
"  the  orchard  of  New  Brunswick."  Twelve  miles  distant,  and  reached 
by  a  section  of  the  C.  P.  R.  R.,  is  the  American  town  of  Houlton,  in 
Maine. 

The  Upper  St.  John. 

To  continue  our  journey  up  the  St.  John  we  recross  the  river  and 
retrace  our  way  to  Woodstock  Junction,  6  miles  distant.  Passing 
Ilartland  (13  miles  from  Wood-stockj  and  Peel  (17  miles)  we  come  to 
the  station  of  Florenceville  (23  miles).  The  village  lies  across  the 
river,  and  is  reached  by  a  ferry.  Its  situation  is  remarkably  pictur- 
esque, on  the  wind-swept  crest  of  a  high  ridge.  A  few  miles  southwest 
of  Florenceville  rises  Mars  Hill,  a  steep  mountain  about  1,200  ft.  hi"h. 


154 


THE   UPPER   ST.    JOHN. 


which  overlooks  a  vast  expanse  of  forest.    This  was  one  of  the  chief 
points  of  controversy  during  the  old  border  troubles,  and  its  summit 
was  cleared  by  the  commissioners  of  1794.     Beyond  Florenccville  the 
charm  of  the  landscape  deepens.     The  railway  keeps  close  to  the  river. 
From  the  village  of  Kent,  3  miles  farther,  where  we  cross  the  Shikiti- 
hauk  stream,  a  portage  of  15  miles  leads  to  the  upper  waters  of  the 
southwest  Miramichi.     Guides  and  canoes  for  this  trip  may  be  engaged 
in  Frcdericton.    Passing  Bath  Station,  and  the  Brook  iMunquauk,'we 
come  to  3funiac,  15  miles  from  Florenccville,  where  the  Muniac  stream, 
descending  through  a  rocky  glen,  brawls  beneath  the  track.     In  this 
neighborhood  there  is  a  peninsula  jutting  out  from  the  river  shore, 
around  which  the  channel  makes  a  long  detour,  while  the  portage  across 
the  isthmus  is  short  and  easy.     The  Melicites  say  that  once  upon  a 
time,  when  an  army  of  their  enemies  was  encamped  on  the  shore  op- 
posite  the  point,  preparing  to  attack  the  villages  below,  which  had  been 
left  defenseless  while  the  braves  were  off  on  the  war-path,  a  clever  ruse 
was  practiced  here  which  saved  the  villages.    Six  Melicite  warriors,  re- 
turning  down  river  in  their  canoos,  discovered  the  invaders'  camp  and 
took  in  the  situation.     First  one  canoe  paddled  swiftly  down,  keeping 
to  the  safe  side  of  the  river,    Then  at  a  short  interval  came  the  second, 
and  after  another  brief  space  the  third.     Meanwhile  the  two  Indians 
in  the  first  canoe,  as  soon  as  they  were  well  out  of  sight  around  the 
point,  landed,  carried  their  craft  in  haste  across  the  portage,  and  em- 
barked again  to  repeat  the  performance.     The  other  canoes  did  like- 
wise  in  their  turn ;  and  this  was  kept  up  the  greater  part  of  the  day, 
till  the  hostile  band,  looking  on  with  lively  interest  from  the  farther 
shore,  were  so  impressed  with  the  numbers  of  the  returning  Melicite 
warriors  that  they  discreetly  withdrew  to  seek  some  easier  adventure. 

At  the  little  milling  village  of  Perth,  49  miles  from  Woodstock,  the 
railroad  crosses  the  river  to  Andovei-  (51  miles),  a  village  of  400  or  500 
inhabitants.  This  is  the  headquarters  for  fishermen  who  are  going  to 
make  the  Tobique  trip.  There  is  a  snug  and  homelike  country  hotel 
here,  whose  proprietor,  Mr.  J.  A.  Perley,  will  furnish  information  as  to 
guides,  and  so  forth.  A  mile  and  a  half  above  Andover,  on  the  other 
shore,  comes  in  the  Tobique,  an  important  tributary,  about  10  miles 
in  length,  famous  for  its  trout  and  salmon  fishing.  At  its  mouth  is 
a  large  Indian  reservation,  containing  a  prosperous  Melicite  village. 
Some  of  these  Melicites  are  exceedingly  intelligent  and  capable  as 
guides  and  canoe-men,  and  may  be  hired  at  from  -$1  to  |H  a  day. 


MR 


THE   UFPER    8T.    JOHN. 


155 


From  the  head  of  the  Tobique  one  may  portage  to  the  Nepisiguit  Lake 
and  descend  tlie  Nepisiguit  to  Bathurst.  The  Tobique  trip  will  be 
treated  in  detail  in  succeeding  pages. 

Four  miles  above  Andover  is  Aroostook  Junction,  whence  a  branch 
line  runs  34  miles  up  the  fertile  Aroostook  Valley  to  the  Maine  towns 
of  Fort  Fairfield  (7  miles  from  the  Junction),  Caribou  (19  miles),  and 
Presque  Isle  (34  miles).     These  towns  have  each  from  2,000  to  3,000 
inhabitants.    The  district  in  which  they  lie  is  enormously  productive, 
and  was  the  subject  of  the  boundary  dispute  between  New  Brunswick 
and  Maine  which  nearly  brought  on  a  war  between  England  and  the 
United  States.    Indeed,  in  the  year  1839,  there  was  a  little  outbreak 
of  hostilities  between  the  province  and  the  State  most  concerned.    This 
skirmish  is  known  to  history  as  the  Aroostook  war.    Troops  were  called 
out  on  both  sides,  and  a  band  of  Americans,  who  had  gone  into  the 
disputed  territory  to  arrest  alleged  trespassers,  were  captured  by  a 
party  of  New  Brunswick  lumbermen  and  their  leaders  carried  captive, 
on  a  horse-sled,  to  Fredericton.    Maine  called  out  her  militia.    Sir  John 
Harvey,  the  Governor  of  New  Brunswick,  summoned  the  provincial 
troops  and  the  few  regulars  within  reach.     Nova  Scotia  voted  all  her 
men  and  all  her  revenues  to  the  help  of  the  sister  province,  and  Upper 
and  Lower  Canada  made  haste  to  send  aid.     There  was  excited  oratory 
at  Washington,  and  (seeing  that  New  Brunswick  was  but  a  colony) 
more  temperate  discussion  at  London,  and  finally  war  was  averted  by 
the  arrival  on  the  scene  of  an  English  commissioner,  who  with  easy 
generosity  yielded  to  the  American  commissioner,  Mr.  Webster,  all  New 
Brunswick's  claims;  and  the  Aroostook  Valley,  largely  settled  by  New 
Brunswickers,  became  American  territory.    By  a  similar  piece  of  astute 
British  diplomacy  Canada  was  deprived  of  broad  and  rich  territcries  on 
the  Pacific  coast  as  well.     In  the  Aroostook  country  there  is  fine  bear, 
deer,  moose,  caribou,  and  duck  shooting,  and  excellent  fishing  in  the 
Aroostook  and  Presque  Isle  Rivers  and  the  Squawpan  Lake.     There  is 
also  available  from  this  point  a  good  round  trip  through  the  Eagle 
Lakes. 

From  Aroostook  Junction  the  main  line  follows  the  heights  over- 
looking  the  river  St.  John  to  the  village  of  Grand  Falls,  seated  on  a 
high  plateau  12  miles  above  Woodstock.  The  village,  with  its  cool 
airs  and  the  really  sublime  scenery  of  the  Falls  and  Gorge,  has  become 
a  popular  summer  halting-place.  The  Grand  Falls  Hotel  is  a  good 
hostelry,  and  there  are  also  the  Amet'ican  House  and  Glasier's  Hotel, 


156 


TrrK    UPPER   ST.    JOirN. 


I! 


Thionsh  the  village  runs  the  street  ftmbitiously  named  Broadway— 
wliicli  is  indeed  ho  broad  and  grassy  that  it  might  be  mistaken  for  a 
meadow.  Thoiigli  the  inhabitants  arc  few— not  more  than  700  or  800 
—there  is  stir  in  the  vilhigo,  caused  bv  the  busy  geese  and  pigs.  There 
arc  several  churches ;  but  tiie  chief  architectural  distinction  of  the 
village  is  the  Grand  Kails  Hotel,  already  referred  to,  whicli,  with  its 
pretentious  front  of  tall,  white,  fluted  pillars,  suggests  at  first  sight 
that  a  (Jrcek  temple  has  captured  a  whitewashed  modern  barn  and 
proudly  stuck  it  on  behind. 

The  Grand  Falls  of  the  St,  John. 

In  magnitude  the  Grand  FnUa  of  the  S(.  John  can  not  be  compared 
to  Niagara;  but  in  impressiveness  of  surroundings  they  will  endure 
the  comparison.     A  little  above  the  cataract  the  river  loiters  in  a  wide 
basin,  where  boats  from  up  stream  make  a  landing.     Then  the  shores 
suddenly  contract,  and  the  great  stream  plunges  into  the  gorge  by  a 
perpendicular  leap  of  73  ft.     At  the  foot  of  the  fall,  in  its  center, 
rises  a  sharp  c^ne  of  black  rock  on  which  the  descending  waters  break 
and  pile  up  magnificently.     The  scene  varies  greatly  with  variations 
in  the  height  of   the  river.     It  is  peculiarly  awe-inspiring  when  the 
logs  are  running  through,  and  one  may  see  mighty  timbers  shattered 
into  fragments,  while  others  at  times  shoot  high  into  the  air  in  the  fury 
of  their  rebound.     From  the  foot  of  the  cataract  the  river  is  volleyed 
off,  as  it  were,  with  an  explosive  force  that  hurls  huge  foam-white 
masses  of  water  into  the  air.     The  bottom  of  the  terrific  trough  is 
sometimes  bared  for  a  moment  as  the  river  sways  madly  up  one  or  the 
other  of  its  imprisoning  walls.     The  gorge  is  about  a  mile  in  extent, 
and  walled   by  contorted  cliffs  from  100  to  250  ft.  in  height.     The 
rocks  are  dark  Upper  Silurian  slate,  whoso  strata  have  been  twisted 
and  turned  on  end,  and  their  seams  filled  with  white  interlacing  veins 
of  quartz.     Throughout  the  extent  of  the  gorge  there  are  seveial  lesser 
falls,  which  are  swallowed  up  in  one  roaring  incline  when  the  river  is 
at  freshet.     One  descends  into  the  gorge  by  a  series  of  precipitous 
stairs.     On  the  wild  and  chaotic  floor  one  may  clamber  some  distance, 
and  visit  "  the  Cave,"  whose  jaws  remind  one  of  the  mouth  of  a  gigantic 
alligator;  one   may   get  a  near  view   of  the   curious   "Coffee-Mill," 
where  a  strange  eddy,  occupying  a  round  basin  beside  the  channel, 
slowly  grinds  the  logs  which  it  succeeds  in  captunug  as  they  dash 


THE  GRAND  FALLS  OF  THE  ST.  JOHN. 


167 


past.  '•  Tlic  VVcHh  "  arc  a  strange  phciionienon,  Hinooth,  fhculur  pits 
several  feot  in  diameter,  bored  perjKindioiilarly  deep  into  tlie  rock,  and 
leadinji  nowliither.  It  will  take  Home  days  to  exliau.st  the  attraetionn 
of  tiie  gorge.  At  its  lower  end,  reaehed  by  a  wonderfully  pieturesfpie 
and  preeipitouH  road  fnmi  the  village,  is  the  lovely,  quiet  expanse  of 
the  Lower  fJitsin,  where  logs  arc  caught  and  made  up  into  rafts  for  the 
voyage  down  to  Fredcricton.  At  low  water  one  may  be  poled  in  a 
lumberman's  "  bateau  "  for  a  short  distance  up  the  gorge  to  the  foot 
of  the  towering  cliff  called  S<iu(m's  Leap,  over  whose  face  a  small 
stream  falls  silvcrly.  Over  this  stiep  the  Indians  used  to  huri  t\mr 
victims. 

One  of  the  best  views  of  the  cataract  is  obtained    from  the  old 
mill,  which  occupies  a  rocky  ledge  thrust  out  int(.  the  v<>ry  face  of  the 
fall.    Here  one  is  in  the  midst  of  the  spray  and  the  rainbows.    Another 
good  view  may  be  had  from  the  Suspension  Bridye,  which  swings  from 
crag  to  crag  across  the  gorge  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  below  the 
falls.    The  spot  has  been  the  scene  of  many  a  tragedy.     Lumbermen 
have  been  sucked  down,  and  never  a  trace  of  their  bodies  found  there- 
after.    The  first  bridge  built  across  the  gorge  fell  into  the  awful  depths 
with  several  teams  upon  it.     The  most  heroic  story,  however,  comes  to 
us  from  Melicite  tradition.     An  invading  army  of  Mohawks  entered 
the  country  by  the  head-waters  of  the  St.  John.     Their  object  was  to 
surprise  the  chief  village  of  the  Melicites  at  Aukpiik,  far  below  Grand 
Falls.     Descending  the  upper  reaches  of  the  river,  thoy  took  a  little 
village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Madawaska,  whose  inhabitants  they  slew 
with  the  exception  of   two  women,  whom  they  saved  to  pilot  them 
down  the  rivor.     The  women  guided  them  safely  through  some  rapids. 
Toward  evening  they  told  their  captors  that  the  river  was  clear  of  falls 
and  rapids  for  another  day's  journey,  after  which  they  would  have  to 
make  a  portage.     The  Mohawks  lashed  together  their  fleet  of  canoes, 
placed  their  captive  guides  in  the  middle,  and  resigned  themselves  to 
the  current.     The  falls  are  buried  so  deep  in  tlie  gorge  that,  as  you 
approach  them  from  up  river  their  roaring  is  not  heard  until  one  is 
close  upon  them.     At  the  first  sound  of  it  some  of  the  watchers  in- 
quired the  cause,  but  were  assured  by  the  captives  that  it  was  only  a 
tributary  stream  falling  into  the  main  river.     As  the  fleet  swept  round 
the  point,  and  quickened  for  the  plunge,  and  the  full  blast  of  the 
cataract's  thunder  roared  suddenly  in  their  ears,  the  Indians  sprang  in 
desperate  horror  to  their  paddles.    But  it   was  too  late;  and  the 


158 


ABOVE   THE   GRAND   FALLS. 


women  raised  their  slirill  wnr-cry  as  they  swept  with  their  captors  into 
the  gulf,  and  saved  tlieir  tribe. 


Above  the  Grand  Falls. 

Just  above  Grand  Falls  the  railway  crosses  once  more  to  the  right 
bank  of  ihe  river,  and  enters  the  Acadian  French  county  of  Mada- 
wasl<a.  About  this  point  the  river  becomes  the  boundary-line  between 
the  United  States  and  Canada.  Fourteen  miles  from  Grand  Falls  is 
the  Aciidian  village  of  St.  Leonard.  Four  miles  beyond  is  the  mouth  of 
Grnud  River,  where  one  fnay  begin  a  fine  hunting,  fishing,  and  canoe- 
ing trip.  Guides  and  canoes  may  be  brought  from  the  Melicite  village, 
at  the  Tobiciue  mouth,  or  they  may  be  hired  from  one  or  another  of  the 
Acadian  settlements.  The  route  lies  by  poling  up  Grand  River  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Waagansis,  and  up  that  meager  stream  through  dense 
and  interminable  alders  to  its  source  in  the  water-shed  dividing  the 
streams  of  the  St.  John  from  those  of  the  Restujonche.  A  portage  of 
6  or  6  miles  leads  to  the  Waagan,  a  wretched  stream  down  which  one 
forces  his  way  till  he  comes  out  on  the  lovely  and  well-stocked  wa- 
ters of  the  "Five-fingered  River."  On  this  trip  the  present  writer 
heard  from  his  Indians  the  following  picturesque  legend,  which  may 
be  called  a  Melicite  "  Passing  of  Arthur  "  : 

THE  DEPARTINfJ  OP  GLUSKAp. 

It  is  so  long  ago  ;  and  men  well-nigh 
Forget  what  gladness  was,  and  how  the  earth 
Gave  corn  in  plenty,  and  the  rivers  flsh. 
And  the  woods  meat,  before  he  went  away. 
His  going  was  on  this  wise  : 

All  the  works 
And  words  and  ways  of  men  and  beasts  became 
Evil,  and  all  their  thoughts  continually 
Were  but  of  evil.    Then  he  made  a  feast. 
Upon  the  shore  that  is  beside  the  sea 
That  takes  the  setting  sun,  he  ordered  it. 
And  called  the  beasts  thereto.    Only  the  men 
He  called  not,  seeing  them  evil  utterly. 
He  fed  the  panther's  crafty  brood,  and  filled 
The  lean  wolf's  hunger  ;  from  the  hollow  tree 
HsH  honey  stayed  the  bear's  terrific  jaws  ; 
Ant.  Oi.  b: own  rabbit  couched  at  peace  within 
Ihr  J^iU  ■np'  r'uidow  of  the  eagle's  wings. 
Ap.v.  v.'  ;t>i  the  feast  was  dot  .■  he  told  them  all 


ABOVE   THK   fJRANn    FALL8.  169 

That  now,  l)ecaii«o  their  wayn  woro  evil  Rrown, 
On  that  name  day  he  muHt  <h«part  from  them, 
And  they  nhould  look  upon  hifl  face  no  more. 
Then  all  the  beaBts  v\t  re  very  sorrowful. 

It  was  near  Hunset  and  the  wind  waH  Btlll, 
And  down  the  yellow  Hhore  a  thin  wave  wawhed 
Slowly  ;  and  (;iiiHkftp  launched  hiH  birch  canoe, 
And  Bpread  hiu  yellow  wail,  and  moved  from  Mhore, 
Though  no  wind  followed,  Htreamlny  in  the  nail, 
Or  rou«heninK  the;  dear  water  after  him. 
And  all  the  In-aHtH  ntood  by  the  nhore,  and  watched. 
Then  to  the  west  ap|)cared  a  Umg  red  trail 
Over  the  wave  ;  and  (iluBkfto  mailed  and  Banp 
Till  the  canoe  grew  little  like  a  bird, 
And  black,  and  vanished  in  the  shining  trail. 
And  when  the  beaats  could  see  his  form  no  more, 
They  still  could  hear  him,  singing  as  he  sailed. 
And  still  they  listened,  hanging  down  their  heads 
In  thin  ro.7,  where  the  thin  waves  washed  and  fled. 
But  when  the  sound  of  blnglng  died,  and  when 
They  lifted  up  their  voices  in  their  grief, 
Lo  !  on  the  mouth  of  every  beast  a  strange 
New  tongue  I    Then  rose  they  all  and  fled  apart, 
Nor  met  again  in  council  from  that  day. 

Thirty-one  miles  above  Grand  Falls  we  cross  the  rushing  emerald 
waters  of  Orccn  River,  which  contrast  sharply  with  the  amber  current 
of  the  St.  John.  This  is  an  unrivaled  trout-stream  in  its  upper  waters, 
but  somewhat  difficult  of  access,  owing  to  the  shoals  and  rapids  that 
obstruct  its  course.  It  is  severe  poling  all  the  way  up,  and  all  the  lat- 
ter part  of  the  journey  is  through  complete  wilderness.  The  trout, 
however,  are  large  and  very  fierce,  well  worthy  of  the  effort  one  must 
make  to  get  them.  Typically  Acadian  are  the  farm-houses,  in  their 
fields  of  buckwheat  and  flax,  along  the  lower  course  of  Green  River. 
Governor  Gordon  has  thus  described  the  home  of  the  Madawaska 
Acadian : 

The  whole  aspect  of  the  farm  was  that  of  a  metairie  in  Normandv  • 
the  outer  doors  of  the  house  gaudily  painted,  the  panels  of  a  different 
color  from  the  frame;  the  large,  open,  uncarpeted  room,  with  its  bare 
shinmg  floor;  the  las.s(,«  at  the  spinning-wheel;  the  French  costume 
and  appearance  of  Madanie  Violet  and  her  sons  and  daughters,  ail  car- 
ried  me  back  to  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic.  ,  *"  i^ar 

The  town  o^St.  Basil,  34  miles  from  Grand  Falls,  has  nearly  2,000 
•nhahjtants,  an  iffiinen=e  Ro.jjan  Catholic  church,  and  the  Convent  and 


•^rtfrnimtyiV' 


160 


ABOVE   THE   GRAIH)   FA1.LS. 


School  of  the  Sacred  Heart.  Six  miles  farther  wc  cross  the  mouth  of 
the  Madawaska  River,  and  ente;  the  little  town  of  Edrmindston,  gome- 
times  called  Little  Falls,  from  the  low  cataract  by  which  the  Mada- 
waska, descending  through  a  narrow  ravine,  plunges  to  meet  the  St. 
John.  The  chief  hotels  of  Edmundston  are  The  Adams  and  the  Hotel 
Baoin.  The  Temiscounta  R.  R.  runs  90  miles,  along  the  Madawaska 
River,  l.aki  2'emucounta,  and  over  the  divide  to  Rivifere  du  Loup.  The 
best  view  of  Edmundston  is  obtained  from  the  top  of  the  old  block- 
house. At  this  point  the  best  of  fishing  waters  lie  all  about  us.  Within 
easy  reach  are  the  St.  Francis,  with  its  lakes  Welastookawagamii, 
Pekaweekagomic,  Pohenegamook,  well  stocked  and  little  fished. 
Across  the  river  is  the  round  trip  by  the  Eagle  Lakes  and  Fish  River 
to  the  American  village  of  Fort  Kent.  Into  the  Temiseouata  Lake 
flows  the  Cabineau,  a  noVtle  trout-stream ;  and  the  Tuladi,  the  outlet  of 
the  Squattook  and  Tuladi  chain  of  lakes. 

Routes  for  the  Sportsman. 

One  of  the  best  round  trips  in  New  Brun3wick,  or,  I  should  say,  in 
the  Maritime  Provinces,  is  what  is  known  as  the  "  Squattook  trip  " ; 
much  of  which,  indeed,  lies  in  the  province  of  Quebec.  The  route  is 
as  follows :  Take  the  canoes  (either  poling  them  up  stream  or  putting 
them  on  a  flat  car)  up  the  Madawaska,  15  miles,  to  a  place  called  Grif- 
fin's. Then  portage  5  miles  to  the  ugly  little  pool  called  Mud  Lake, 
with  its  desolate  and  fire-ravaged  shores.  From  Mud  Lake  descend 
Beardsletf  Brook  (pronounced  Bazzily),  catching  a  few  trout  by  the  way, 
and  squeezing  through  many  alder  thickets,  till  the  Squattook  River 
is  reached.  Run  with  thrilling  speed  down  the  rapids  of  this  river,  till 
you  come  to  Big  Squattook  Lake,  where  one  should  stop  and  fish  at  the 
outlet.  From  this  down  there  is  fishing  everywhere.  Passing  through 
Second,  Third,  and  Fourth  Squattook  Lakes — Second  Lake  known  as 
"  Sugar-Loaf  Lake,"  from  the  fine  peak  that  overshadows  it — the  Hor- 
ton  branch  is  reached,  which  should  be  ascended  for  the  sake  of  the 
wonderful  abundance  and  good  size  of  its  trout.  The  Squattook  River 
enters  the  Tuladi  Lakes,  two  almost  contiguous  sheets  of  wilderness 
water,  wherein  the  great  lake-trout,  called  "Tuladi,"  arc  numerous, 
and  to  be  taken  by  trolling.  Out  of  the  lower  Tuladi  Lake  flows  the 
Tuladi  River,  whereon  are  the  Tuladi  Falls,  round  which,  except  at  cer- 
taiu  stages  of  the  water,  one  must  make  a  portage.    The  falls  are  just 


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ROUTES    FOR   THE    SPORTSMAN. 


161 


below  the  lake.  Thence  there  is  a  clo ar  run,  with  swift  but  not  dan- 
gerous  water,  to  Lake  Temiscoiiata,  which  must  be  crossed  to  reach  the 
villa-e  of  Betimr  du  Lac.  Here  one  may  put  up  at  Clouthur\  Hotel 
if  tired  of  camping.  Temiscouata  Lake  is  30  miles  long,  IJ  miles  in 
breadth,  and  remarkable  for  its  depth.  There  is  good  Ashing  in  its 
waters  at  times,  especially  for  the  great  gray  trout  called  "togue"- 
but  it  is  not  as  good  a  fishing  water  as  the  streams  and  smaller  lakes' 


surrounding  it 


THE  BIRCH-BARK  CANOE. 


The  birch  canoe  of  the  Melicite  is  filled  with  mystery  for  the  un- 
initiated, who  may  be  known  beyond  a  shadow  of  doubt  by  the  way 
they  talk.  If  a  man  begins  dilating  on  the  perils  of  the  bark  canoe 
you  may  be  assured  at  once  that  he  is  either  totally  ignorant  of  his 
subject,  or  is  making  a  bid  for  your  admiration  at  the  cost  of  truth 
itself. 

I  can  not  make  you  love  the  bark  as  I  do— at  least  not  through 
these  pages-but  if  you  seek  out  Jim  Paul  at  Fredericfm  he'll  give 
you  a  taste  of  the  dreamy  delight  for  a  very  small  sum.     Many  men  of 
Fredericton  who  do  not  live  in  a  hut  and  wear  moccasins  summer  and 
wmter  can  not  be  beaten,  either  in  skill  or  endurance,  bv  any  Indian  on 
the  river.     The  probabilities  are  that  you  will  be  charmed  with  your 
first  experience,  and  if  Jim  is  in  the  stern  of  the  canoe  you'll  ask'him 
if  it's  difficult  to  paddle— to  which  he'll  say,  "Not  much,"  with  a  grin- 
and  what  you'd  have  to  pay  for  a  nice  canoe  y     To  this  latter  question 
he  may  answer,  anywhere  from  $20  to  $40.     It  all  depends  on  the  im- 
pression  he  gets  of  your  wealth  and  gullibility.    If  he  says  $20,  you  had 
better  offer  him  $18  and  take  it.     He'll  think  more  of  you  if  you  don't 
give  him  quite  as  much  as  he  asks,  and  you  may  make  your  mind  easy 
with  regard  to  the  other  $2,  because  he  didn't  expect  $20  anvway. 

^  If  you  have  time,  it  will  interest  you  to  watch  your  canoe  being 
built.  Jim  Paul  builds  as  good  canoes  as  any  one,  and  he  is  a  good 
man  to  deal  with.  He  lives  opposite  Fredericton,  in  the  Indian  village 
at  St.  Mary's,  already  mentioned,  and  if  you  walk  over  the  bridge  and 
follow  the  footpath  to  your  right,  along  the  bank,  you'll  come  toVim's 
hut  before  you've  gone  50  yards.  If  he  has  begun  operations  on  your 
canoe,  he'll  be  sitting  on  the  ground  by  his  front  door  driving  wooden 
pms  into  the  ground.  He  makes  a  little  fence  of  these,  about  8  in. 
high  and  inclosing  a  space  the  size  and  shape  of  your  canoe.    After  ^ 


102 


ROUTES   FOU   THE    SPORTSMAN. 


few  last  pats  on  the  ground  inside  the  inclosure,  to  make  sure  it  is 
level  and  free  from  stones  and  lumps,  he  brings  out  the  bark  and  lines 
the  inclosure  with  it  putting  it  inside  out.  The  bark  of  a  canoe  runs 
with  its  grain  from  bow  to  stern,  and,  if  his  piece  is  long  enough  to 
cover  the  whole  inclosure,  so  much  the  better  as  far  as  looks  are  con- 
cerned.    If  not,  there  will  be  a  scam  across  near  the  middle. 

When  the  bark  is  put  into  the  little  inclosure  it  is  pressed  smoothly 
and  flatly  down  to  the  ground  and  up  against  the  wooden  pins  and 
folded  over  their  tops  ;  and  bricks  or  other  convenient  weights  are  put 
in  upon  it  to  keep  it  in  place. 

Next,  long,  thin  strips  of  cedar,  about  4  in.  wide  and  i  in.  thick, 
are  laid  over  the  bark,  and  are  fitted  so  as  to  cover  all  the  inside  of 
the  canoe,  leaving  only  very  narrow  cracks  here  and  there.  Then  the 
gunwales  are  put  on — or  at  least  the  inner  strips  are  put  in  place  and 
bound  tightly  with  cane  (he'll  use  hackmatack-roots  if  you  must  have 
them).  This  will  give  the  builder  a  purchase  for  the  ribs,  which  are 
next  in  order.  They  may  be  of  any  light,  strong  wood— cedar  or 
spruce,  usually.  They  are  broader  at  their  middles  than  at  their  ends, 
so  that  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  is  well  floored  over  while  the  silvery 
bark  of  the  birch  is  gleaming  through  at  the  sides.  The  midrib  is  the 
greatest  arc,  and  from  the  midrib  to  each  end  they  gradually  diminish 
in  size  until  at  last  they  are  bent  almost  double.  ¥ov  a  short  dis- 
tance — a  foot  and  a  half — in  bow  and  stern  there  are  no  ribs  at  all,  and 
the  bark  of  each  side  is  sewed  with  roots  or  cane  so  as  to  make  a  sharp 
neat  prow.  The  cavity  is  generally  stuffed  with  shavings,  and  a  shin- 
gle is  cut  to  fit  in  and  close  it  immediately  ahead  or  behind  the  last  rib. 

So  far  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  is  flat  and  the  sides  stand  on  it  at 
right  angles ;  but  when  the  ends  of  the  midrib  are  pressed  under  the 
gunwales  on  each  side  and  it  is  pushed  into  its  proper  position  and  a 
few  of  its  fellows  are  ranged  in  place  on  each  side,  we  see  that  the 
bark  has  left  the  ground,  except  at  the  center,  and  the  sides  are  as- 
suming the  curve  of  the  finished  canoe.  Everything  is  rather  loose 
till  the  bars  are  put  in.  There  are  five  bars  in  an  ordinary-sized  ca- 
noe— a  long  one  in  the  middle  and  shorter  ones  on  each  side.  They 
are  of  maple,  and  are  fitted  into  the  gunwales  at  each  end  and  lashed 
in  snugly,  drawing  the  canoe  to  its  proper  shape.  Then  the  top  strips 
of  the  gunwales  are  put  on,  and  the  seams  on  bow  and  stern  and  mid- 
ships— if  there  be  a  seam  there — are  covered  with  cotton  and  smeared 
thoroughly  with  a  mixture  of  resin  and  grease,  and  the  canoe  is  ready 


m 


ROUTES  FOR  THE  SPORTSMAN.  163 

for  trial.  It  will  probably  leak,  of  course,  and  the  leaks  must  bo  found 
and  smeared  with  the  resinous  mixture.  Then  your  canoe  is  done  and 
you  must  learn  to  manage  it !  ' 

If  you  get  in  and  kneel  down  in  front  of  the  sterr-bar  and  get  Jim 
to  s,t  m  front  and  watch  you,  you  will,  after  a  few  attempts,  be  able  to 
keep  her  from  wabbling  in  her  coursc-that  is,  from  zigzaggirg-but 
you  will  find  that  after  every  two  or  three  strokes  of  the  paddle  you 
stop  and  steer,  or  else  you  are  inclined  to  paddle  first  on  one  side  and 
then  on  the  other.     Both  these  methods  are  in  nowise  allowable      No 
canoeman  stops  to  steer !    No  canoeman  changes  sides-except  to  rest 
If  you  are  paddling  on  the  right  side,  let  your  right  hand  grip  the  pad- 
dle vevi/  near  the  top  of  the  blade-the  lower  down,  the  more  power- 
a^d  the  left  a  couple  of  inches  below  the  top.     Many  good  canoemen 
clasp  their  fingers  over  the  top  of  the  paddle,  but  it  is  not  so  good  form 
nor  as  good  for  long  work  as  is  the  true  Indian  mode  of  holdino-_viz 
with  the  back  of  the  hand  toward  the  face  and  the  thumb  avdffnaeZ 
reaching  around  to  the  front.     Dip  the  whole  depth  of  the  blade  so 
that  your  right  hand  goes  under  water,  and  pull  stronglv  and  slowlv 
At  the  end  of  your  stroke,  as  the  blade  is  rising  toward  the  surface 
turn  the  blade  on  to  its  edge  by  twisting  the  right  wrist  toward  the  side 
of  the  canoe.    No  time  is  spent  in  this  twisting  of  the  blade,  but  on  it 
depends  the  mastery  of  the  canoe  and  the  decision  of  your  course 
Practice  alone  can  show  you  how  to  make  it  effective.     By  the  steadi- 
ness of  his  blade  in  the  water  and  by  judgment  as  to  the  proper  time 
tor  a  new  stroke,  the  experienced  canoeman  can  defy  a  chopping  white- 
crested  sea  that  would  make  short  work  of  a  stout  row-boat      Be  sure 
and  don't  sit  upon  the  bar  of  your  canoe  unless  you  are  alone  or  have 
no  room  to  knrel.     Any  one  on  the  St.  John  River  will  know  you  are  a 
novice  If  you  are  seen  perched  upon  the  bar.     Kneel,  as  I  said  before 
and  kneel  rather  low.     For  ordinary  light  work  you  will  find  it  con^ 
vcnient  to  rest  against  the  '  ar  behind  you,  but  when  you  go  making 
your  35  miles  a  day  on  dead  water  you'll  find  that  you  work  best  "  on 
your  hunkers,"  as  the  Indians  say-that  is,  sitting  on  your  heels 

Paddling  a  canoe  is  one  thing ;  propelling  it  by  a  pole,  even  against 
a  moderate  current,  is  quite  another.  But  learn  to  pole  you  must  if 
you  would  explo-e  New  Brunswick  waters  and  be  independent  of  your 
Indian.  The  first  essential  is  the  pole.  It  will  be  of  spruce  8  or  9  ft 
long,  and  about  the  size,  in  circumference,  of  the  circle  made  bv  your 
thumb  and  second  finger.     It  will  be  dry  and  light  and  smoothly  fin- 


164 


ROUTES   J  OR   THE   SPORTSMAN. 


ished,  and,  if  it  is  free  from  knots  and  flaws  as  it  should  be,  it  will  be 
wonderfully  pliable  and  tough. 

You  had  better  get  an  experienced  poler  to  give  you  a  few  instruc- 
tions before  you  try  your  hand,  because,  of  course,  you  must  stand  up 
to  pole  a  canoe,  and  you  will  get  no  support  from  the  pole,  and  the 
length  of  time  you  remain  in  the  canoe  will  depend  entirely  on  your 
luck  if  you  go  at  it  blindly. 

Jim  Paul  poles  in  good  form.  Let  him  take  you  up  the  river  away 
while  you  watch  him  closely. 

You  will  see  that  he  stands  with  his  feet  braced  apart  a  little  and 
faces  the  near  shore.  Suppose  he  is  poling  on  the  right  side,  he  grasps 
the  pole  near  the  middle  with  his  right  hand  and  puts  it  to  the  bottom 
of  the  river  just  behind  him,  using  his  left  hand  merely  to  direct  the 
pole  to  its  hold  in  the  hard  mud.  Then  he  surges  steadily  and  strongly 
back  with  his  right  arm,  and,  as  the  canoe  glides  ahead,  the  left  arm 
gets  a  chance  to  shove  too  and  makes  the  most  of  its  opportunity.  The 
right  hand,  so  long  as  he  poles  on  this  side,  will  never  leave  the  pole 
except  in  making  a  long  push,  in  which  case  the  poler  will  often  run 
the  length  of  the  pole  hand  over  hand.  He  will  always  lift  from  the 
stroke  with  his  right  hand  and  swing  the  dripping  end  out  ahead  of 
him  in  a  shining  half  circle,  seize  it  below  with  his  left  to  plant  it  for 
a  new  shove,  and  go  on  as  before. 

By  setting  the  pole  on  the  bottom,  at  some  distance  out  from  the 
side  of  the  canoe,  and,  during  the  stroke,  drawing  the  stern  close  to  the 
pole,  the  bow  will  be  swung  in  toward  shore,  gradually  or  abruptly,  as 
the  poler  may  desire.  By  setting  the  pole  well  under  the  canoe,  and 
pushing  the  stern  off  from  it,  a  turn  in  the  opposite  direction  is  made. 
An  experiencad  canoeman  keeps  a  perfectly  straight  course  and 
makes  his  turns  and  curves  with  precision  and  without  wabbling  or 
wavering.  Just  as  a  practiced  bicyclist  does  with  his  wheel. 

In  very  deep  water,  sometimes,  the  pole  must  be  used,  for  some  of 
the  strongest  rapids  are  deep.  But  you  need  not  be  taken  unawares 
by  deep,  strong  water.  You  will  know  whether  or  not  you  are  going 
to  encounter  any,  and  will  start  on  your  trip  armed  with  a  pole  of  ex- 
ceptional length. 

This  long  pole  will  be  found  of  great  service,  too,  in  a  short,  shal- 
low rapid  of  more  than  usual  strength,  when  you  can  not  afford  to  take 
a  full,  new  stroke.  You  will  then  find  it  advisable  to  "  swish "  the 
lower  end  quickly  into  the  air  and  "  snub  "  down  hard  with  the  other, 


ROUTES   FOR   THE    SPORTSMAN. 


165 


1 


keeping  your  pole  over  ready  to  gain  a  step,  as  it  were,  by  turning  a 
handspring.  With  a  reliable  man  in  the  bow  and  stern,  a  canoe  can  be 
forced  up  through  a  foaming,  dashing  run  that  looks  utterly  im- 
passable. 

The  pole  will  be  indispensable  also  in  shooting  rapids-runnin^  down 
over  the.n.  On  the  New  Brunswick  waters,  at  many  seasons  of  th^e  year 
there  is  very  little  water  in  the  principal  fishing  streams,  and  the  rocks 
are  so  thick  in  the  runs  that  a  paddle  is  useless.  Then  tl,e  bowman 
must  keep  his  wits  about  him,  and  must  kneel  high  with  a  short,  stout 
pole  held  ready  to  "snub"  for  all  he's  worth,  so  that  the  bows  may 
not  be  stove  in  on  some  bare  rock  that  the  sternman  has  failed 
to  avoid,  owing  to  his  natural  inability  to  keep  his  canoe  headed 
in  every  conceivable  direction  at  once,  without  getting  in  the  least 
"  rattled." 

If  you  are  going  to  shoot  rapids -full-grown  ones— you  must  be  as 
cool  as  if  your  game  were  elephants.  If  you  are  not,  you  will  break 
your  bark's  back  over  a  ledge  or  rip  her  up  with  a  pointed  rock  ;  and 
will  lose  a  lot  of  your  load,  and  have  to  tramp  through  the  woods  to 
the  nearest  village. 

Many  a  time  I  have  looked  from  my  position  by  the  stern-bar  an.l 
seen  a  raging  incline  hissing  and  snarling  ahead  of  me,  with  black 
rocks  bobbing  up  everywhere.     Never  a  word  from  the  fellow  in  front 
of  me.    He  leans  peering  over  the  bow,  and  keeps  his  pole  flashino-  like 
a  fencer's  foil  from  side  to  side.     He's  working  like  a  horse,     fpick 
out  the  main  course  and  use  all  the  common  sense  and  experience  I 
can  lay  claim  to  in  choosing  the  deepest  water  and  keeping  clear  of  the 
worst  rocks.     He  looks  out  for  the  smaller  but  no  less  dangerous  ones 
We  come  to  a  sharp  turn,  and  I  head  her  straight  for  a  giant  bowlder 
.  lat  stoops  in  front  of  us,  surging  his  way  against  the  roaring  stream 
with  frothy,  jagged  shoulders.     The  canoe  shivers  and  leaps  at  him 
and  I  give  a  twist  to  right,  and  a  side  current  helps  me  just  in  time' 
and  we  turn  half  round  and  dart  for  another.     The  bowman  catches 
her  in  her  jump  and  holds  hard  while  I  slip  the  stern  to  the  left  and 
we  spring  through  a  line  of  rolling  waves  and  shoot  into  the  rest  and 
calm  of  a  deep,  still  pool,  and  "lie  easy"  a  minute  to  look  back  and 
live  those  last  few  seconds  over  again.     Our  pipes  are  smoked  to  the 
very  heel,  and  we  start  again,  with  every  sinew  and  nerve  strung  tight 
ready  for  what  may  come.  ' 

That  is  the  kind  of  strengthening  medicine  you  will  get  in  the  wilds 


^P(!^ 


1G6 


ROUTKrt   FOR   TlIK   8POKT8MAN. 


with  11  biirli-luirk  nmof !— strong  water  thiit  will  intoxiontc  you  fast 
t'noujj;l>  and  Iohvc  no  lu'ii(iach(>! 

If  you  sirilic  the  stifain  wlu'u  tlio  wattM-  is  high— wiy,  after  the 
.lui\e  fiosliot— youMl  find  all  tlu'  rapids  full  and  thf  water  running  deep 
ami  heavy  and  covering  all  the  smaller  hk-Uh,  so  that  there  is  not  half 
the  risk  of  being  "  stove  in."  Then  you  ean  let  your  bowman  sit  at 
his  ease,  and  you  ean  settle  yourself  with  voin-  broadest-l)lade(l  jjaddle 
and  keep  things  straigi\t,  and  listen  to  the  shouting  of  the  stream.  No 
work  for  you  now  !  Nothing  but  highly-spieed  hot  jiuddings  and  the 
brightest  of  the  bright  champagnes!  Aiul  all  digestible  as  bread  aiul 
milk!     And  no  stint! 

Try  it  for  yourself,  and  see  whether  or  not  this  is  exaggerated. 

Up  the  Tobique  by  t'nnoe. 

A  TYPlCAb  NKW   niU'NSWK'K  THIP. 

Our  party  consisted  of  the  "  Kcdesiastic,"  the  "  Artist,"  and  my- 
self. The  Keclesiastic  is  a  veteran  devotee  of  birch  and  paddle.  The 
Artist  was  a  novice,  but,  being  of  frame  and  spirit  fashioned  to  with- 
stand the  thousand  imnatural  shocks  which  the  canoeist  is  heir  to,  he 
soon  proved  himself  one  of  the  initiated.  Without  nuich  difHculty, 
and  for  a  consideration  of  sf  1  a  day,  we  provided  us  each  with  an  In- 
dian, and  each  Indian  provided  a  birch  canoe,  warranted  unstable  but 

water-proof. 

Our  supplies  we  laid  in  nt  the  Andover  grocery.  As  an  essential, 
they  inchuleil  an  open  tin  baking-oven— an  apparatus  with  which  the 
Melicite  bakes  excellent  bread  at  the  camp-fire. 

The  start  was  decreed  for  Friday  morning,  but  rain  and  the  non- 
apiicarance  of  our  Melicites  postponed  it  till  the  afternoon.  A  word  in 
regard  to  these  Melicites,  whon>  let  me  conuueiui  to  explorers  of  the 
lobique.  They  were  Steve  Solace,  t-hief  guide,  and  his  two  nephews, 
Tom  and  Frank. 

About  l.ao,  in  a  spell  of  clear  sky,  we  paddled  off  from  Andover 
and  fancied  ourselves  under  way ;  but  the  liulians  had  a  stop  to  make 
at  their  village.  Here  was  a  delay  of  nearly  two  hours,  which  left  us 
little  of  the  afternoon  for  journeying.  Not  far  ahead  were  "  The  Nar- 
rows,"  thi*  toughest  piece  of  navigation  which  the  whole  length  of  the 
Tobique  could  bring  to  bear  against  us,  with  the  possible  exception  of 
Red  Rapids.     We  decided  to  emi)loy  the  reuuuxnt  of  our  daylight  in 


UP  THK   TOIJIQIIK   BY   CANOE. 


167 


► 


domollshing  t]w  obi^taolc,  that  wo  might  have  oloiir  poling  to  look  for- 
ward  to  on  the  morrow. 

A  mile  oC  oasy  water,  and  "The  Narrows"  were  rcachod.  Hero 
the  Tol»i(jue  liaH  cliisclcd  itself  a  canon  tiiroiiuh  a  rang((  of  ealeiferous 
slate  whiih  had  sought  to  bar  its  way  to  tlic  St.  John.  The  little  dim. 
eulty,  I  understand,  was  settled  some  ages  back,  but  the  river  Htill 
chafes  furiously  at  renienibraiu-e  of  the  opposition  ;  the  gloomy  crags 
still  threaten,  cs  if  they  brooded  over  their  defeat.  Kedly  into  the 
gate  of  the  gorge  streamed  the  light  of  the  low,  unclouded  sun,  filling 
the  water  with  fervent  greens  and  olives  and  flushing  the  naked  faces 
of  the  cliffs. 

Hut  the  gorge  is  tortuous  and  the  sunshine  was  speedily  shut  out, 
while  the  rocks  drew  closer  ami  closer  al)ove,  as  if  they  would  strike 
their  somber  foreheads  together.  The  toppling  black  walls  were 
scrawled  over  with  tracings  of  white  where  the  thin  scams  of  limestcme 
displayed  themselves.  Hero  and  there  we  marked  the  coidial  green  of 
a  cedar-tree,  swung  from  some  scant  root-ludd  on  the  steep.  Once  we 
came  to  a  spot  where  the  cafion  widened,  giving  roon.  for  an  eddy 
which  served  us  for  a  i)reathing-place,  and  for  a  queer  detaclufd  rock- 
pinnacle  which  n)ust  figure  as  an  island  at  high  wat(!r.  At  this  season 
the  stream  was  low,  or  a  passage  of  the  Narrows  would  have  been  one 
of  the  wildest  of  impossibilities.  Instead  of  volleying  down  the  gorge 
in  an  endless  succession  of  great,  white,  roaring  sin-ges,  as  is  its  wont  in 
time  of  freshet,  the  current  now  darted  on  like  a  flight  of  green  arrows, 
splintering  into  a  hiss  of  foam  on  every  point  and  ledge,  and  occasi(m- 
•"nping  under  a  group  of  thin-crested,  stationary  "  ripples." 
ihis  devioMS  chasm  is  not  a  mile  in  extent,  we  occupied  two 
1 '  '  more  in  its  passage.     For  all  that,  we  had  little  time  to  de- 

lig-  our  grim  surioundings.     We  had  to  snatch  our  impressions. 

With  straining  shoulders  and  Hashing  padu'es,  we  aided  to  our  utmost 
the  poles  of  our  sorely-perspiring  guides.  Soi/'etimes  we  would  grasp 
a  jutting  rock,  and  hold  (m  like  leeches  while  the  panting  Mclicites 
breathed.  We  thrust  and  paddled  desperately,  now  on  this  side  now 
on  that,  as  a  spiteful  cross-current  would  tug  fiercely  at  our  bow  to 
drag  us  into  some  small  but  malignant  Charybdis.  All  the  while  our 
ears  rang  with  the  rushing  clamor  of  the  rapids,  doubled  and  trebled 
and  hurled  back  upon  us  by  the  chasm's  resonant  walls.  At  last  the 
walls  fell  swiftly  apart  before  us,  revealing  a  far,  bright  stretch  of 
placid  waters,  bedded  in  low,  greon  shores,  with  a  sundown  sky  of 


ing 


rr  TiiK  Tonrtii'K  hy  (Wnor. 


cK'iir  Hoii-}?rcoii  iinil  iimlu'r  wiil(>ninj>;  out  |M'ai'oriill_v  abovo  it.  lU'liold 
frttm  this  til  vein  of  tiiiiiiilt  iiiiil  glcmiii,  t!n>  viHioii  nuuo  to  our  oyos  liko 
tlu'  voritalilo  t'liibodiiiuMil  of  a  divam. 

I'poii  a  plot  of  j:rav('lly  swanl  wo  pilrlwd  oiir  tents.  As  tlio  rains 
liad  drciu'hfd  evei vtliinjx,  we  had  Ironhle  wilii  our  lir«'  till  a  dry  stomp 
was  fonnd.  After  supper,  while  the  red  u;liire  of  the  lire  wrought 
stran^;e  confusion  with  the  niooiibeanis  ainont;  tho  thieUets  about  ns, 
and  on  the  misty  level  of  the  water  that  lu'ijjhbored  our  threslittid,  we 
Kiilheied  hu_!;t<  armfuls  of  a  fiiant  fern  whieh  j,'rew  near  by,  and  diied 
them  for  our  eouehes  and  pillows.  Tiie  Indians,  who  had  their  "  Kmuj- 
to"  over  apiinst  the  tent-door,  preferred  their  wonted  pile  of  hendoeU- 
branehes.  As  we  were  runiun<^  over  with  noble  lesolulions  eoneernin<; 
an  early  start,  befor(>  the  morrow's  sun  should  have  got  his  eyes  well 
opened,  w»>  sat  not  lonjr  thiit  ni,u;ht  about  our  (ire.  At  a  modest  hour 
we  wore  snufi  in  onr  fi'rns  and  blankets. 

Fortuiuitoly  for  the  fate  of  our  re.-<olutioiis,  the  morrow,  to  idl  ap- 
pearance, Inid  no  sun.  it  was  rain,  rain,  iniii;  m»w  mist,  now  driz/lo, 
now  "piichforks."  When  it  liappenod  to  l)o  for  a  little  in  tho  milder 
form  of  mist,  about  «'leven  in  tlio  inorniiifif,  wo  struck  tent  and  jrot 
nnder-way.  At  once  came  on  the  rabid  form  of  "  pitchforks."  With 
water-proofs  buttoned  up  to  the  neck,  the  skirts  thoroid'  spread  «»ut  to 
shed  tho  tiownfal!,  we  endured  in  silence  till  we  hail  scored  a  moist 
thrct>  nnh>s.  Then,  eominj;  to  a  farm-house  set  temptin<?ly  clo.se  to  tho 
stream,  wo  decith>d  to  break  for  cover.  The  Kcelesiastio  was  sittin<;  in 
a  pool  which  chilled,  l;e  sai<l,  his  most  deeply-seated  enthusiasms;  and 
wo  af^rced  that  a  kilchcn-lirc,  with  possibilities  of  buttermilk  <r/('  .\/cA, 
had  just  now  peculiar  charms  for  a  canoeist's  iinaj;ination.  Canoes 
and  dunnage  safe  beneath  tarpaulins,  we  presented  ourselves  all  drip- 
ping at  tho  kitc!»on-door,  while  the  Indians  took  to  the  liarn. 

St)on  the  weather  cleared,  and  in  tho  afternoon  w*'  nunle  gttod  prog- 
ress. Hetween  tho  showers  the  Artist  would  be  busy  with  his  sketch- 
book,  whipping  it  under  his  nuu'kintosh  at  the  first  sign  of  a  sprinkle. 
As  for  the  Kcelesiastio,  he  is  an  ardent  disciple  of  the  gentle  Isaac,  and 
had  got  his  rod  spliced  as  soon  as  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Tobicpie, 
Wo  two  now  kept  casting  fron>  side  to  side  as  the  ciMioc  clind)cil  on- 
ward, though  on  this  lower  course  of  tho  stream  we  had  no  exi)('Otationa 
to  bo  disappointed.  The  largo  trout  wore  lying  higher  up,  or  in  the 
mouths  of  the  brooks,  and  one  need  not  look  for  a  salmon  at  his  tly 
before  ho  reaches  tho  Oxbow.     Yet  coitain  of  tho  small  frv  were  on 


■  r 


liko 


■ 


L'diihiiii    Miiinit iitn. 


\\ 


\     i 


'i     I 


CP  TlIK   TOIUQUK    BY   OANoE. 


ICO 


hiind,  and  wo  took  enough  to  supply  our  pun  liboially.  Tlie  EccIeHiastlo 
alHo,  favored  among  anglers,  struck  and  skillfully  landed  a  small  grilse. 
The  fertile  soil  along  the  lower  Tobique  is  being  rapidly  taken  up  by 
settlers,  so  during  all  this  day's  p»ding  we  were  rarely  out  of  sight  of 
some  sign  (tf  civilization.  Now  it  was  a  latticed  red  and  white  bridge, 
leaping  out  of  a  mass  of  green  on  either  lofty  bank,  and  putting  an 
ftiry  limit  to  some  enchanted  vista  before  us.  Now  It  was  a  white 
village  perched  on  a  hill,  with  a  wall  of  dark  fir-trees  behind,  and  the 
yellow  refuse  of  its  now  idle  saw-mill  covering  the  low  level  in  its  front. 
Toward  sunset  the  showers  ceased  finally,  and  in  the  cx(iuislte  air  we 
grew  all  too  indolent  to  wield  or  rod  or  pencil.  We  dreamed  along 
between  the  changing  shores,  an  I  were  disposed  to  grumble  when  the 
Indians  halted  for  supper.  To  the  halt,  however,  we  grew  reconciled 
when  the  savor  of  our  browning  trout  stole  out  upon  the  luy-sweet 
breezes.  After  supper  we  pushed  (m  throu^rh  gathering  dusk,  while 
the  twang  and  cry  of  night  hawks  filled  the  upper  skies  with  magic, 
and  we  caught  a  fur-off  piping  of  summer  frogs,  with  the  lowing  of 
cattle  from  a  farmstead  back  of  the  hills.  Reaching  a  wooded  island 
in  mid-stream  we  saw  that  it  was  good,  and  pitched  our  tents. 

The  camp  was  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  under  a  pair  of  stately 
black  ash.  What  a  mighty  fire  we  built  that  night  to  glare  across  the 
water  I  It  served  at  the  same  time,  truth  compels  me  to  add,  the  less 
romantic  puri)osc  of  drying  our  socks,  etc.  We  were  so  wet  that  one 
i'hccp.Iah-(juuh-gaH  *  could  not  satisfy  our  needs.  The  camp  was  full 
of  cheep-lah-qunh-gms.  It  was  also  full  of  sand-flies— the  in>*idious 
and  all-pervasive  "  biicum-no-sec-um  "—and  with  a  fine  Tobiqjie  variety 
of  the  mosquito.  These  troubled  the  Artist  sorely,  while  the  rest  of  us, 
knowing  them  of  old,  hid  beneath  a  panoply  of  tar-ointment.  This 
compound,  familiarly  known  as  "  slitheroo,"  is  tar  and  grease  boiled 
down,  with  some  unnecessary  chemical  stiperadded.  The  Artist  stood 
in  awe  of  it.  He  fled  to  it  at  last,  however,  after  bitterly  inveighing 
against  the  Tobique  for  having  brought  him  "to  this  pitch."  As  he 
stood  by  the  cheep-lnh-qiiah-gan,  alternately  turning  his  socks  and 
daubing  on  the  succulent  ointment,  he  became,  on  a  sudden,  inspired. 
He  began : 


This  is  the  Melicite  name  for  the  green  sapling  driven  into  the 
ground  to  stand  over  the  camp-fire,  for  the  purpose  of  holding  the  pot 
and  kettle.     Clothes,  etc.,  are  hung  upon  it  to  dry.— Ed. 


170  UP   THE   TOBIQUIC   BY    CANOK. 

"  T<)l)i(iiio,  or  not  Tobiqiio,  thiit  in  the  quontion. 
Wlu'ther  "tin  nobler  in  tlic  Hesli  to  niiffor 
Tho  Htiiifis  and  arrows  of  oiitnijrcons  niidj^joH, 
Or  to  talvo  arniH  apiinst  a  siej;o  of  sand-flies, 
And  by  tar-ointnu'iit  end  tlieni  !  " 

At  this  staj^o  lio  was  rudely  interrupted. 

liy  a  lanientahle  oversi<^ht  our  tent  was  pitched  with  tho  door  there- 
of toward  the  east.  Therefore  we  awoke  too  early,  and  lay  long  watch- 
ing the  sunrise  over  the  low,  thiek-wooded  hills.  Then  the  coils  of  mist, 
tinged  with  saffron,  pink,  and  violet,  wavered  and  faded  from  the  up- 
lands ;  but  on  the  water  they  clung  writhing  in  pearly  ropes  for  nearly 
an  hour  longer.  The  woods  all  about  were  full  of  the  "  Canada-bird," 
or  white-throated  s[)arrow,  whose  limpid,  pathetic  whistle  lacked  never 
an  echo.  As  we  watched  the  crystalline  pageant  of  the  morning  a  blue 
film  stole  between  our  eyes  and  it,  then  a  dazzling  shimmer,  and  we 
knew  that  the  camp-fire  was  liglited.  Soon  a  smell  of  pancakes  and 
hot  coffee  invaded  our  couch,  and  sjjringing  up  with  alacrity  we  were 
fairly  launched  out  upon  a  delicious  Sunday's  rest. 

We  set  ort"  on  Monday  early,  while  the  mists  wore  yet  on  the  stream, 
and  the  elm-branches,  in  the  moveless,  cool  air,  were  drooping  as  if 
asleep.  This  was  tho  luxurious  time  for  traveling,  anil  in  the  heat 
about  noon  wo  could  indulge  ourselves  in  a  shsia.  At  half-past  ten  we 
readied  IJed  liapids,  a  spot  where  tho  river  revels  down  a  wild  incline 
of  retl  sandstone.  The  day  had  turned  out  temperate  and  cloudy. 
Those  rapids  being  shallow  and  difficult,  we  disembarked,  and  carrying 
our  rods  along  with  us  took  a  sottlemonts-road  parallel  with  the  stream, 
leaving  the  Indians  to  navigate  the  chtites,  and  appointing  to  meet 
them  later  at  the  mouth  of  Trout  Brook.  l>ut  a  pleasant  surprise  was 
in  store  for  us.  We  soon  came  within  sound  of  laughter  and  singing, 
the  neighing  of  horses,  and  tho  shouts  of  young  backwoods  swains.  A 
turn  of  the  road  brought  us  out  i  pon  a  clearing  all  alive  with  tethered 
teams  and  strolling  coui)les.  In  the  midst  of  the  clearing  was  a  barn,  in 
which  was  being  held  what  I  may  define  as  a  picnic  tea-meeting.  From 
the  mouth,  from  Arthuret,  from  Andovoroven,  they  had  gathered  in  hila- 
rious parties,  in  a  gorgeous  but  bewildering  whirl  of  fluttering  ribbons  and 
many-colored  attire.  They  received  us  into  their  midst  with  the  frank- 
est and  heartiest  hospitality.  It  was  a  gay  time  for  us,  till  the  Eccle- 
siastic unkindly  pointed  out  that  wo  had  consumed  nearly  three  hours 
in  this   Vanity  Fair.     The  Artist  and  I  had  made  a  perfect  host  of 


UP   THE   TOHIQUE   BY   CANOE. 


in 


acqimintances  (especially  among  the  maidens),  who  did  not  seem  to 
want  us  to  go  away.  We  liad  played  many  games,  interesting  and 
more  or  less««i>e,  in  the  eourse  of  which  (I  blush  to  tell  it)  it  had  fallen 
to  the  Artist's  lot  to  kiss  the  prettiest  damsel  present.  We  had  been 
treated  to  the  dubious  delights  of  the  swing,  \vhi<'h  made  us  dizzy ;  and 
wc  had  laid  out  a  vast  amount  of  precious  muscle  in  assisting  to  swing 
fair  la  lies.  This  swinging  was  the  darling  pastime  of  the  ladies,  whose 
passion  for  it  seemed  insatiable,  and  was  indulged  with  great  expeudi- 
lure  of  giggling  and  sn)all  shrieks,  and  with  an  aitless  prodigality  of 
spotless  stockings.  At  length  the  Ecclesiastic  was  obliged  to  remind 
us  of  our  families,  and  to  point  out  that  the  rural  beaux  were  lookin" 
grim  ;  so,  with  pockets  full  of  cookies,  conversation  lozenges,  and  other 
tender  tributes,  we  gathered  up  our  tackle  and  withdrew.  rerhaj)S 
wc  imagined  it,  but  it  seemed  to  us  a  gloom  fell  over  the  company 
as  we  left. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  brook  the  Indians  were  awaiting  us.  Had  we 
kept  ^hem  so  waiting  all  day  they  would  never,  such  is  their  [latience, 
have  dreamed  of  complaining.  We  stayed  to  fish  the  last  hundred 
yards  or  so  of  Trout  Brook,  getting  fine  sport  with  soiue  lively  and 
voracious  half-pounders.  The  brook  seemed  alive  with  sprightly  and 
graceful  fish,  from  a  tpmrter  to  a  half  pound  in  weight.  The  Ecclesi- 
astic said  a  good  many  of  these  would  weigh  a  pound  and  over;  such 
delicious  ambiguity  is  the  safeguard  of  a  fisherman's  repiitation. 

Later  on  wc  halted  at  a  ruined  mill,  where  the  dilapidated  dam 
seemed  a  part  of  the  river's  bank,  and  the  scanty  stream  that  had  sup- 
plied it  fell  over  the  moss-greened  timbers  in  a  diaphanous  veil  of  sil- 
ver. The  mill-pond  above  was  shallow,  and  muffled  in  water-lilies,  from 
under  which  wc  lured  some  large  but  soggy-looking  trout.  They  had 
little  play  in  them,  for  all  their  vast  and  ferocious  black  mouths.  For 
the  rest  of  the  day  we  little  cared  to  fish ;  we  were  content  with  the 
dolcefar  7iknte  which  our  tireless  Melicites  and  this  peerless  rivci-  con- 
spired to  make  possible  for  us.  Our  journeying  was  after  this  fashion. 
Before  embarking,  the  Indian  would  heap  into  the  cance,  aft  of  the 
front  bai-,  a  sweet-smelling  armful  of  ferns,  or  wild  grasses,  or  liem- 
lock-boughs.  This  for  our  seat.  For  a  back  thereto  he  would  fix  a 
wide  bit  of  board  against  the  second  bar;  and  over  it,  for  softness, 
throw  a  blanket  or  a  coat.     Stretched  out  on  such  soft  couch,  our  feet 


m 


moccasins,  our  rods  tlirust  into  the  bow  ahead  of  us,  wc  lolled, 
inoked 


or 


(all  but  the  Ecclesiastic),  or  read,  oi-  took  notes,  or  chatted 


1Y2 


UP   THE  TOBIQUE   BY  CANOE. 


lazily  across  the  waters  that  parted  canoe  from  canoe.     Or  at  times, 
when  we  preferred  it  so,  how  sweet  it  was  simply 


or 


"  to  watch  the  cmorakl-colored  water  falling 
From  cave  to  cave  through  the  thick-twined  vine  "  ; 

"  hearing  the  downward  stream, 
With  half-rhut  eyes  ever  to  neem 
Falling  ael.ep  in  a  half  dream  !  " 

We  passed  the  embowered  mouth  of  the  quiet  Wapskehesan,  navi- 
gable  for  20  miles,  but  said  to  contain  no  fish ;  and  a  little  farther  we 
discovered  what  may  have  been  a  former  channel  of  this  stream.  It 
was  a  sharply-defined,  tortuous  green  lane,  leading  from  the  river's 
brink  back  into  the  wilderness,  with  alders  and  poplars  and  ash-trees 
dipping  into  it.  Plainly  it  was  not  a  roadway.  It  resembled  the  bed 
of  a  river  from  which  the  sparkling  floods  had  been  shut  off,  that  the 
influent,  liberal,  grassy  tide  of  summer  might  flow  in  thci  by  and 
brighten  over  the  land. 

Leaving  behind  the  "  Wapsky "  and  its  problematical  ancient  de- 
bouchemnit,  we  came  to  one  of  the  lions  of  the  Tobique,  the  beautiful 
"  Plaster  Cliff."  The  opposite  shore  is  low  and  luxuriantly  wooded, 
with  a  mat  of  vinos  over  trees  and  underbrush.  The  cliff  itself  rises 
so  sheer  from  the  water's  edge  that  only  in  one  or  two  places  was  it 
possible  to  land ;  and  its  face,  about  100  ft.  in  height,  is  a  many -col- 
ored rock  so  soft  that  we  could  carve  out  specimens  with  our  knives. 
The  surface  crumbles  rapidly  under  the  frost  and 

"  The  stealthy  depredations  of  gray  raiu  "  ; 

and  the  settlers,  in  winter,  come  from  miles  about  and  haul  it  to  their 
farms  as  a  fertilizer.  The  naked  wall  loomed  over  us,  but  could  not 
look  forbidding  with  its  lovely  mixture  of  cool  blues  and  grays,  reds 
and  browns  and  yellows  and  umbers,  somber  purples  and  rosy  or 
creamy  whites.  Wheresoever  there  was  a  ledge,  or  fissure,  or  gen'le 
slope,  theie  would  be  gathered  a  rich  detritus  bearing  a  perfect  hang- 
ing-garden of  wild  flowers.  The  pendulous  cups  of  the  hai-e-bell  swung 
airily  from  every  crevice,  sometimes  so  thickly  as  to  hang  a  veil  of 
blue  lace- work  over  many  square  yards  of  the  rock.  From  the  dizzi- 
est shelves  drooped  the  twisted  pcagreen  cables  of  the  vetch,  studded 
with  its  vivid  purple  blossoms ;  and  the  white  aromatic  yarrow  flung  a 
Silvery  numtle  over  the  lowermost  slopes.     I  have  never  seen  in  nature 


UP  THE  tobiqup:  by  canoe. 


173 


another  color-harmony  so  exquisite.  The  Artist  was  enraptured,  and 
wished  his  pencil  were  compounded  of  the  rainbow,  ratlier  than  of 
sober  graphite.  The  Ecclesiastic  found  a  sermon  of  marvelous  elo- 
quence in  these  stones. 

Above  Plaster  Cliff  the  river  runs  through  a  wide  belt  of  red  sand- 
stone, remarkable  for  its  depth  and  strength  of  tone.     The  next  land- 
mark  in  my  memory— or  should  I  style  it  a  "  water  mark  ?  "—is  the 
Oxbow.     This  is  a  curious  and  strongly  defined  double  bend  in  the 
river,  and  we  reached  it  late  in  the  afternoon.     Here,  instead  of  the 
airiness  and  park-like  effects  of  hard  wood  shores  and  grass,  wo  had  a 
sort  of  warm  and  cheerful  shadow,  deep,  quiet,  olive  waters,  rioh-hued, 
close-drawn  shores  of  fir  and  cedar,  and  rocks  all  muffled  in  moss.' 
We  paused  awhile,  in  hope  of  striking  a  salmon.     We  tried  our  most 
alluring  flies,  but  the  salmon,  if  on  hand,  were  apparently  not  open  to 
inducements.    The  trout,  however,  were  very  numerous,  and  rose  finely, 
besides  being  of  a  larger  size  than  any  we  had  hitherto  taken.     The 
Ecclesiastic  chose  to  fish  from  shore,  whither  Steve  followed  to  help 
land  the  larger  fish ;  the  Artist  also  went  ashore,  to  sketch ;  but  with 
Tom's  assistance  I  fished  from  the  canoe.     Steve  had  been  evinciu"- 
some  desire  to  try  his  own  dusky  hand  at  the  sport ;  so  at  last  the  Ect 
clesiastic  handed  him  the  rod  for  a  moment,  with  a  few  cautionary 
hints,  and  betook  himself  up  the  bank  to  a  spring  he  had  espied  among 
the  rocks.     I  held  my  hand  to  watch  Stove,  as  he  stood  proudly  wield" 
ingthe  unaccustomed  lance-wood;  and  in  that  posture  the  Artist  im- 
mortalized him.     All  the  preliminaries  the  Indian  accomplished  with 
skill;  but  presently  a  fair-sized  trout  took  one  of  his  flies,  and  started 
off  up  stream  with  it.    Now  Steve  was  in  a  piteous  qi.andary.    He  had 
forgotten  all  that  he- had  been  told  to  do.     He  did  not  understand  the 
reel,  and  was  afraid  the  rod  was  going  to  break.    He  simply  stood  and 
looked,  with  an  expression  of  profound  concern  on  his  mahogany  face. 
When  the  trout  started  back,  he  pulled  in  some  of  the  slack  with  his 
fingers,  gingeriy  enough,  but  let  it  go  at  once  when  the  fish  started 
off  again.     No  one  would  go  to  his  assistance  uninvited,  lest  he  should 
wound  the  Melicitc  dignity.     At  last  a  variation  was  introduced.     A 
large  fish  seized  the  disengaged  fly,  as  it  trailed  about  the  pool ;  and 
then  Steve  turned  frantically  and  raised  a  cry  for  help.     The  Ecclesi- 
astic, with  immense  laughter,  ran  up  and  seized  the  rod;  and  after  a 
sharp  struggle  both  prizes  wo  j  brought  to  basket.     The  two  toj/ether 
weighed  a  pound  and  three  quarters,  and  Steve  most  complacently 


174 


UP   TIIK   TOBIQUK   BY   CANOE. 


plumed  himself  on  beinc;  tlieir  captor.  For  all  that,  however,  he  would 
not  touch  the  rod  again ;  perhaps  dreading  lest  a  more  dubious  success 
might  cast  tarnish  upon  his  piscatorial  laurels. 

Just  beyond  the  Oxbow  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  GuUpiac, 
of  the  Tobique's  most  important  affluents.  A  little  below  it  we  saw  a 
deep,  eddying  pool,  in  which  lay  several  salmon.  They  dispersed  at  our 
coMjing,  but  we  marked  the  spot.  At  the  Guhpmc  was  a  small  island, 
treeless  and  grassy  and  stcmy,  on  which  we  encamped.  Then,  leaving 
the  Artist  to  sketch,  the  ^lelicites  to  get  supper  ready,  the  Ecclesiastic 
and  I  took  a  canoe  and  dropped  down  to  look  for  those  salmon.  They 
had  not  yet  returned,  however;  so,  promising  to  call  again  next  morn- 
ing, we  poled  back  to  the  Gulquac.  This  river  joins  the  Tobique  in  a 
long,  straight,  shallow  race,  just  swift  enough  to  dimple  and  bubble 
deliciously.  The  place  was  alive  with  trout,  of  all  sizes  saving  the 
largest.  We  used  a  small,  biown  fly,  and  in  half  an  hour  took  four 
dozen,  ranging  from  six  or  seven  ounces  to  three  quarters  of  a  pound. 
As  the  dusk  thickened  we  put  on  small  moths,  and  with  a  lavender- 
colored  fly  I  killed  two  fish  that  closely  approached  the  pound.  The 
Ecclesiastic,  just  as  we  decided  to  reel  up,  struck  a  large  fish  that  gave 
him  good  fight,  and,  with  his  usual  slice  of  luck,  brought  it  safely  home. 
It  went  a  pound  and  thirteen  ounces.  We  reveled  in  trout  hencefor- 
ward till  we  began  fm-tively  examining  our  sides  and  shoulders  t(  see  if 
little  rows  of  vermilion  spots  were  beginning  to  come  out  upon  us,  or 
fish-bones  to  stick  through  our  skin.  That  night  we  named  our  halting- 
place  Camp  Mosquito. 

In  the  morning  the  Ecclesiastic  and  I  paid  an  early  visit  to  the 
pool,  in  accordance  with  our  resolve  of  the  evening  before.  We  were 
fortunate  enough  to  find  the  salmon  at  home.  Tying  the  canoe  to  a 
projecting  branch  a  little  above  the  pool,  we  made  long  and  crafty 
casts  right  down  to  the  critical  spot.  We  used  small,  quiet  flies,  such 
as  are  most  killing  in  the  Nepisiguit,  and  played  them  lightly  over  the 
surface.  I'resently,  as  my  fly  fell  softly  on  the  outermost  edge  of  the 
eddy,  there  came  a  strange  little  whirlpool  right  beneath  it,  followed 
by  a  screech  from  my  reel.  The  Ecclesiastic  dropped  his  rod  as  if  it 
had  burnt  him,  slipped  the  knot,  and  seized  a  paddle  to  be  ready  for 
assisting  me.  Like  a  bow  of  silver  the  saUnon  shot  into  the  air, 
straightened  himself,  and  fell  slap  on  the  s[)ot  where  he  expected  the 
line  to  be.  But  it  wasn't  there— I  had  dropped  my  rod-tip  in  time. 
Without  a  pause,  another  and  wilder  leap,  right  toward  the  canoe ;  and 


^ 


UP   THE   TOBIQUE   BY   CANOE. 


175 


we  saw  him  fiercely  shake  at  the  tiny  feather  sticking  fast  in  his  jaw. 
Then,  after  two  more  leaps,  and  an  attempt  to  dart  under  the  canoe, 
foiled  by  a  strong  sweep  of  the  Ecclesiastic's  paddle,  he  hummed  off 
down  stream,  while  the  reel  sang,  and  the  canoe  followed  as  fast  as  our 
paddle  could  urge  it.  When  he  had  taken  off  about  sixty  yards  of  my 
line  he  turned  for  an  up-stream  scurry,  which  was  hard  on  my  paddle 
but  still  harder  on  himself.  I  dared  to  check  him  severely  while  going 
in  that  direction.  Then  came  another  series  of  leaps,  and  another 
rush,  and  not  till  after  twenty  minutes  of  fight  did  the  splendid  fish 
seem  to  grow  perceptibly  weaker.  At  last  those  mighty  rushes  became 
short  and  of  little  account;  he  lay  half  on  his  side  close  by  us,  and  the 
Ecclesiastic  lifted  the  gaff.  But  the  sight  seemed  to  rouse  him  to  one 
last  effort.  He  whizzed  off  and  brought  up  blindly  in  a  shallow  pool 
close  to  shore.  We  drew  in  and  cut  off  his  retreat.  The  Ecclesiastic 
has  a  just  dislike  to  the  gaff,  so  he  slipped  overboard  into  the  shallow 
water,  with  a  swift  motion  got  both  arms  beneath  the  fish,  and  threw 
him  out  ui)on  tlie  grass.  Poor  salmon,  what  a  gallant  fight  he  had 
made!  We  gave  him  an  instant  quietus,  and  gazed  upon  him  with 
respect  and  admiration.  "  How  about  the  favored  clergy  now  ? "  in- 
quired the  Ecclesiastic,  as  we  poled  homeward.  I  said  nothing;  and 
that  salmon  went  thirteen  pounds. 

This  day's  voyaging  was  pleasant,  though  abo:^t  midday  the  heat 
was  so  appalling  as  to  drive  us  to  covert.  Early  in  the  day  we  reached 
Two  Brooks,  which  is  the  singular  name  given  to  one  small  brook  run- 
ning through  a  little  settlement.  At  its  mouth  was  a  salmon-weir, 
running  out  nearly  to  mid-stream.  To  our  right  rose,  in  hazy  grandeur, 
the  twin  sunmiits  of  Blue  Mountain,  its  nearer  slopes  a  stony  and  fire- 
scathed  wilderness ;  on  our  left  the  brawling  brook,  some  rich  groves, 
the  gray  little  village,  and  fields  of  charred  stumps,  all  muffled  in  deep 
grasses.  The  fishing  here,  for  numbers,  was  superb.  There  was  no 
limit  to  it,  apparently.  The  Artist  built  him  a  lean-to,  that  he  might 
sketch  in  shade;  and  he  penciled  a  masterpiece.  This  masterpiece, 
since  rendered  permanent  with  ink  and  Chinese  white,  depict?  the 
Ecclesiastic  with  his  trousers  rolled  far  above  his  energetic  knees, 
the  skirts  of  his  clerical  coat  (donned  in  deference  to  the  neighboring 
civilization)  dragging  in  the  water,  established  as  near  mid-streain  as 
wading  would  place  him,  while  he  throws  his  whole  heart  into  dropping 
his  fly  into  the  very  back-wash  of  the  weir.  Myself,  averse  to  exertion, 
conspicuous  by  my  lightness  of  attire,  am  fishing  from  the  canoe.    The 


!     I 

i     i 


176 


UP   THE   TOBIQUE   BY    OANOE. 


Artist  himself  appears  not  in  the  masterpiece,  which  is  so  far  in- 
complete. 

As  through  the  afternoon  we  continued 

"  Ever  climbing  up  the  climbing  wave," 

we  narrowly  escaped  .being  run  down  by  a  voyaging  squirrel.  This 
brave  little  voyager  was  making  aci-oss  current  (iJaronally,  ai'd  seemed 
to  us  somewhat  exhausted.     The  Ecclesiastic,  -arest,  stretched 

out  his  paddle  to  the  bushy  navigator,  who  strai-'  ^  climbed  aboard, 
and  sat  up,  dripping  but  "  chipper,"  upon  the  bow  of  the  canoe.  Con- 
ducted courteously  to  the  other  shore,  which  he  reached,  by  a  daring 
leap,  before  we  had  time  fairly  to  land  him,  he  whis^ked  off  without  a 
word  of  acknowledgment  or  a  hint  of  paying  his  fare.  Later  we  passed 
a  green  snake  swimming  along  complacently,  and  wc  concluded  the 
creatures  were  sanctioning  the  pernicious  practice  of  bathing  in  the 
heat.  We  accepted  his  sanction  as  valid ;  and  at  the  next  pool,  in- 
stead of  fishing,  wc  swam.  Toward  sundown  we  reached  a  couple  of 
small  islands,  below  which  the  fishing  was  excellent  and  the  fish  large. 
The  trout  rose  all  around  us,  took  our  flies  greedily,  and  it  was  most  re- 
luctantly that  we  tore  ourselves  away.  A  mile  farther  on  we  encamped 
on  a  tempting  point  of  dry,  sweet  meadow,  round  which  the  river 
swept  in  a  narrowed  channel ;  and  Steve,  pointing  to  the  deep,  rapid 
curve,  said :  "  Plenty  salmon  here,  mebbe ;  ugh  ! "  We  all  tried  for 
these  straightway,  even  the  Artist,  while  supper  was  getting  ready; 
but  we  took  only  two  or  three  trout  and  a  wretched  chub.  Next 
morning,  however,  brought  us  better  fortunes.  Standing  at  the  lower 
corner  of  the  bend,  I  raised  a  small  salmon  at  n  .>  second  throw  ;  but 
there  was  some  flaw  in  the  casting-line,  and  lie  sailed  off,  to  my  deep 
disgust,  with  two  flies  and  a  couple  of  yards  of  gut.  Thereafter,  I 
suppose,  he  tried  some  fishing  on  his  own  hook.  A  few  minutes  later 
I  heard  a  shout  from  the  Ecclesiastic  on  the  other  side  of  the  point. 
Rushing  to  him,  I  found  him  busy  with  what  was  evidently  a  first-rate 
fish ;  when  brought  to  book,  after  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  excitement, 
it  proved  an  eleven-pounder. 

Not  far  beyond  this  camp  we  sighted  Bald  Mountain,  rising  some 
miles  back  from  the  river,  out  of  the  midst  of  cedar  swamps.  Here  is  the 
little  settlement  of  Riley's  Brook,  endowed  with  the  most  primitive  affair 
in  the  way  of  post-office  that  I  have  ever  yet  discovered.  We  mailed 
letters  here,  exceeding  brief  ones,  consigning  them,  with  certain  mis- 


f 


UP   THE   TOBIQUE    BY    CANOE. 


177 


yivingfl,  to  tlie  care  of  the  primitive  postmaster — a  rheumatic  old  lady. 
Then  we  i)ushed  on  for  tlie  Forks,  bidding  good-by  to  the  last  of  To- 
bique  civilization.  The  next  few  miles  were  through  a  fire-stripped 
country.  We  sighted  here  a  bald-lieaded  eagle,  which,  perched  on  the 
top  of  a  bleached  pine  trunk,  kept  guard  over  the  surrounding  desola- 
tion. His  perch  was  but  a  stone's-throw  back  from  the  stream,  and 
as  we  approached  he  stretched  out  hia  lean  neck,  his  flat,  sharp,  snake- 
like head,  and  surveyed  our  movements  inquisitively.  Wiien  we  had 
got  well  past  he  seemed  to  repent  having  let  us  off  so  easily,  and  yelped 
after  us  some  choice  maledictions.     Then  we  came  to  the  Forks. 

The  Forks  of  the  Tobiiiuc— this  was  one  of  the  chief  objective 
points  of  the  expedition.  Here  is  the  trout-ground  of  the  river;  and 
here,  too,  a  favorite  resort  of  the  salmon.  Three  large  streams  at  this 
point  flow  together.  From  the  southward  comes  the  Campbell  River, 
more  commonly  called  the  Kight  Branch  ;  next,  the  Mamozekel — 
"  River  of  Alders,"  as  the  Melicite  hath  it— forming  the  middle  tine  of 
this  delectable  fork ;  and  from  the  northward  the  Left  Uranch,  alias 
the  Little  Tobique,  alias  the  Nictor.  Where  these  waters  gather  in 
conclave  the  shores  draw  somewhat  apart,  inclosing  a  spacious,  deep, 
sandy-bottomed  basin,  full  of  quietly-circling  eddies  and  swirls.  The 
southward  walls  of  this  watery  amphitheatre  are  low  and  rankly  wooded, 
but  on  the  north  they  are  high  and  bare,  forming  an  airy  perch  whereon 
we  pitched  our  tent  The  tongues  of  land  between  the  converging 
streams  were,  for  the  most  part,  of  luxuriant  weedy  meadow,  melodi- 
ously noisy  with  bobolinks.  While  dining  on  the  height  we  gloated 
over  the  liberal-bosomed  pool  spread  out  below  us,  and  as  soon  as  din- 
ner was  over,  leaving  the  Artist  to  his  pencil,  we  took  two  of  the  canoes 
and  crossed  to  the  side  where  the  Right  Branch  emptied  in.  The 
Ecclesiastic  stationed  himself  upon  one  side,  I  on  the  other,  while  our 
Melicites  held  us  in  position  by  thru;,ting  down  their  paddles  into  the 
sand.  For  a  time  the  sport  was  merely  good,  not  markedly  better  than 
much  we  had  left  behind  us ;  and  the  fish  were  fastidious,  takiiig  noth- 
ing but  a  smallish  gray  and  yellow  fly.  Our  persevering  casts  for  a 
salmon  elicited  no  response  whatever.  Then  the  breeze  moderated,  as 
the  sun  began  to  cast  lengthening  shadows,  and  all  at  once  the  pool 
became  alive.  Here  and  there  a  magnificent  trout,  of  almost  any  num- 
ber of  pounds,  according  to  our  excited  eyes,  would  leap  with  the  com- 
plete abandon  of  the  smaller  fry ;  and  the  smaller  fry  themselves  seemed 
to  spend  a  large  part  of  their  time  in  the  air.  We  shifted  our  flies  a 
18 


i 


178 


UP   THE   T0I3IQUE   BY   CANOE. 


little,  but  soon  found  that  the  trout  of  Tobiijue  Forks,  when  bent  on 
niakhi*;,'  a  meal,  wouhl  make  it  of  whatever  niij^ht  eoiue  handiest.  Each 
new  fly  seemed  better  than  the  hist.  The  half  and  three-quarter  pound 
fish  were  reeled  in  with  an  alacrity  which  set  glisteninjij  the  eyes  of  our 
stoical  Melicites.  I  liad  ali'cady,  after  a  series  of  brisk  tijihts,  taken 
several  lively  one-and-a-half-i)ounders,  and  in  the  bottom  of  my  canoe 
lay  a  deep-set,  solid  trout  that  1  flattered  myself  would  go  over  the  two 
pounds.  The  Keclesiastie,  to  judge  from  his  joyoiis  occasional  shouts, 
was  being  no  less  successful.  At  last,  as  it  drew  near  sundown,  and 
our  wrists  had  grown  well-nigh  helpless,  I  caught  a  sharp  exclamation 
from  the  Ecclesiastic,  which  made  me  turn  to  look  at  him.  He  was  so 
occupied  that  I  thought  he  had  hooked  a  salmon.  Just  then  the  fish 
rolled  half  out  of  water,  and  I  saw  it  was  indeed  a  trout,  but  one  of 
patriarchal  proportion"  ''  A  five-pounder ! "  I  shcuted,  frantically ;  but 
the  fisherman  shut  his  lips  and  said  never  a  word.  lie  had  need  of  all 
his  faculties.  This  trout  gave  him  the  work  of  a  salmon  of  more  than 
twice  his  size.  The  strife  was  long  and  desperate,  but  kept  within  the 
circle  of  the  pool,  and,  when  the  Ecclesiastic  netted  his  prize  at  last,  it 
was  without  having  moved  a  hand-breadth  from  his  post.  Just  from 
the  water  this  trout  well  cleared  four  pounds.  It  was  the  fish  of  the 
trip.  The  Ecclesiastic  afterward  struck,  and  lost,  one  which  he  consid- 
ered larger  (this  was  on  the  following  day) ;  and  one  which  I  am  ready 
to  swear  to  as  the  historical  five-pounder,  rose  in  a  dilettante  fashion  to 
inspect  my  "  Jock  Scott "  when  I  was  on  the  (piest  for  salmon ;  but  I 
can't  deny  that  these  weights  are  problematical.  The  fish  stayed  not 
long  enough  to  permit  of  my  being  more  accurate.  3fy  best  trout  of 
the  expedition  went  several  ounces  short  of  the  three-pound  scratch ; 
but,  when  we  came  to  brag  of  salmon,  I  was  away  ahead  of  the  Eccle- 
siastic. We  put  in  two  more  days  at  the  Forks,  in  the  course  of  which 
we  discovered  that  the  salmon  had  a  penchant  for  the  lower  part  of  the 
pool,  where  I  killed  three  more,  good  fish,  the  Ecclesiastic  at  the  same 
time  scoring  a  couple  of  grilse.  The  Tobique  salmon  do  not  rise  so  freely 
as  those  of  the  Nepisiguit  or  Miramichi.  As  for  the  number  of  trout 
which  we  had  taken — and  early  we  stayed  our  hands — the  Indians 
salted  them  down  in  birch-bark  crates.  We  imagined  the  mahogany 
youngsters  at  Tobique  mouth  reveling  in  the  fruits  of  our  prowess  ;  and 
we  imagined  them  so  vividly  that  the  artist  forthwith  made  a  sketch  of 
our  imaginings.  And  thus  we  felt  no  scruples  on  the  abundance  of  our 
catch. 


rr  THE  TOmQUE  BY   CANOE. 


179 


Before  we  set  out  for  up  the  Nictor  we  had  to  endure  a  break  ,n 
our  little  party.     The  Ecclcsia.tie  had  duties  in  town  whu-h  rcpured 
ll  to  be  back  at  a  eertain  day,  and  .arly  on  our  thud  day  at  the 
FoTk.  '.e  took  his  departure.     We  supplied  bin.  with  rubber  blankelB 
for  a  lean-to,  and  with  sundry  of  the  ehoieest  delieuc.es  frou.  on.  eon. 
Lissarlat;  and  alter  a  sorrowful   farewell  we  watched  hn.   and  h  s 
faithful  Steve  glide  oft"  with  the  current.     As  for  us  who  were  left  be- 
•  d  for  a  whit  we  fell  into  a  kind  of  n.elaneholy.     Rousn.,  ourselve 
at  la;t  we  struck  tent,  shipped  our  duunage,  and  .na  e  ready  to  ascend 
the  Nictor.     Our  ain.  was  Little  Tobi.iue,  or  Nietor  Lake,  with     8 
guardian  mountain.     We  got  off  at  about  eleven,  and  our  htt  e  flot.  la 
Appeared  to  us  sadly  diudnished.     We  missed  the  Eceles.ast.c  s  unflag- 
g  r.  ardor,  and  the  Artist  could  find  no  heart  to  sketch,  the  pen^e^^  to 
fake  notes  or  flourish  his  lat.ce-wood.     The  pohng  at  hrst  was  d  ffi  ul  , 
as  the  Nietor  here  flows  over  a  formation  of  flagstones  and  slate-ledges, 
aif  rding  poor  hold  to  the  poles.     Passing  this  we  n.de  good  headway 
and  stopping  for  b.neh  at  the  mouth  of  Cedar  Brook  fon.nd  the  trou 
arge,  hr^gry,  and  abundant.     The  Artist  became  fisherman  here  and 
w?tried  lid  to  shake  off  our  depression.     We  were  stayed  more  tuu. 
onee  by  windfalls,  large  trees  blown  right  across  the  channel,  and  s  ^- 
eral  of  the  rapids  we  scaled  were  very  shoal,  as  our  canoes  bore  pamful 
witness.     Throughout  the  day  a  fly,  wherever  cast,  was  sure  to  ra.se  a 
fish      By  sundown  we  had  covered  two  thirds  of  our  way,  and  we  en- 
camped where  a  little  nameless  brook  flows  in  from  the  north      I  sha.l 
nevr  forget  how  the  sand-flies  swarmed  at  this  camp.     Theybur.-owed 
into  our  nostrils,  our  ears,  our  hair.     They  developed  a  most  depraved 
taste,  an  actual  craving,  it  seemed,  for  our  tar  o.ntment,  m  wh.eh  we 
hid  fairlv  soaked  ourselves.     The  evening  fishing  was  utterly  spoiled 
for  us      We  retreated  to  the  tent,  which  the  Indians  walled  about  w.th 
a  chain  of  "  smudges"  ;  then,  when  we  had  recovered  from  our  pa.je^ 
we  began  loudly  exulting  in  the  discomfiture  of  our  foes.     A  loai.n 
fire  ot  dry  pine-logs,  the  pleasant  smell  of  the  cedar  smudges  a  good 
supper,  and  a  comfortable  couch  in  the  glow,  soon  restored  us  to  some- 
thhv^  like  our  wonted  cheerfulness.    We  sang  songs,  smoked  our  pipes 
and^shouted  many  a  warm  greeting  to  the  solitary  canoe  w^.eh  had 
forsaken  us,  and  which  we  pictured  as,  by  this  time,  poss.bly  shdmg 
down  by  the  W^apskehegan's  mouth. 

Next  day  we  made  ^ever  a  halt  to  fish,  and  in  the  early  afternoon 
shot  out  upon  the  steely  mirror  of  Lictle  Tobique  Lake.    The  scene 


I     1 


180 


vv  Tin-;  ToiutiUK  nv  (^anok. 


wnH  n most  <.pprossivc.  in  its  stillnoss  an.l  its  s„„.Ikm.  n.aj.sty.  non.ul 
ho  I«Iu..sho,.s  w...  masses  ,.f  .....k  sv..„it..,  with  ....uallv  .lark  swa.n,,- 
forests  .„tonn,nKlo.l ;  an,l  nntr  tl.Hak..'s  I.a.i  ros.  Ni;.,,,- Mountain 
a  boHhn.  nak,.d  cone  of  feldspar,  lV<,„.nin,  into  snI,je...ion  the  lesse 
h.Ils  whu.h  enMu-he,l  an,l  hu.kiUHl  a.oun.l.  The  water  was  of  m-ent 
|H.th,  u-e-eoM,  a.wl  eoIoHess.  The  woo.is  appea....!  to  harb,!;.  no 
bn.is  or  s<pMnels,  an.!  th..  only  fan.iliar  sonnd  whieh  K,.....|e,i  „s  was 

he  p.p.ngof  the  frogs,  which  arose  towani  eve .,..     ^v,  seal...!  Victor 

Monntau.,  which  is  so.ne  2,..0()  ft.  hijrh,  an.!  fron.  its  s,.nn..it  Innl  such 
a  imnorama  of  hills,  a.al  rivers,  an.l  lakes,  as  I  have  .lescribci  elsewhere 
as  seen  ron,  the  peak  of  Sugar-Loaf.  We  note.I  <.ld  Sugar-Loaf  on 
he  bnght  northwestern  horizon.  At  this  place  we  sp.w.ra  day  and 
two  n.ghts,  hn,hng  no  lack  of  sport  in  the  gloou.y  waters;  bu't  the 
region  provo.l  too  .evore  and  chilling  for  us,  and  its  atn.osphere  of 
Htony  endurance  crept  into  our  very  souls. 

"  Tlje  HtranKe-scrawlcd  rocks,  the  lorcly  sky, 
If  r  iniKht  lend  (licir  life  a  voice, 
Socni  to  boar  rather  llian  rejoice." 

We  had  not  time  at  our  disposal  to  portage  to  Nepisiguit  Lake  and 
descend  that  wd.l  riv,>r.     As  we  hastened  away  with  the  racing  current 
on  our  downward  trip,  one  n.orning,  we  seen.c.l  to  leave  behind  us  a 
whole  nu,untain  of  vicarious  woe.     We  stopped  not  till  we  reached  the 
*orks  that  same  afternoon. 

After  a  successful  evening's  sport  in  the  welMoved  pool,  we  found 
hat  now  we  had  little  roon,  to  spare  m  the  canoes,  on  account  of  the 
Indmns  cargo  of  salt-fish.     Thenceforth  we  killed  but  enough  for  each 
meal.     ()„  our  down  trip  we  made  great  progress,  and  traveled  luxuri- 
ously.    My  remembrance  of  it  is,  for  the  most  part,  a  confusion  of 
greens  and  blues  and  browns,  streaming  awav  behind  us  as  we  fle.l 
with  a  vu'.d  effect  in  rose  an.l  while  at  lied  Kapids,  and  a  stu.ly  in 
black,  with  lightning  high-lights,  when  we  made  the  passage  of  the 
Narrows  d.uing  a  thunderstorn,.     We  ran  the  Red  Rapids  about  noon 
m  a  reckless  mood,  with  enthusiasm  and  hair-brcadth  escapes.     At  the 
isarrows  we  kept  our  hea.ls  level,  for  the  stream  was  pretty  full-  and 
the  passage,  an.id  the  roar  of  the  surges,  the  vollcyings  of  the  ponderous 
tliunder,  the  streaming  of  the  rain,  and  the  blue  dartings  of  the  light- 
nin:,^  fron.  cliff  to  cliff;  was  thrilling  enough  for  all  reasonable  demands 
A  half-hour  later  we  were  in  Andover,  at  Perley's  Hotel,  donning  the 


" 


»V    It  All,    FROM    WOODHTOCK.  IgJ 

Karl,  of  dvilizati.,,,  with  a  .l.^ro,.  of  hu.r,.  ,„„,.v..l,M.sly  .vr.WvnU.l  ly 

By  Rail  from  Woodstock. 

l"'.o.n  Wo,„|s.ool<  ,1.0  C.  P.  ,t.  H.  ,„„„,  f„,  „,.,  ,„„„^       . 

w .......  to   „,.,,..  n.,,,„.  .n,..,.^..,    ,,,,,,j   . ,  ^^ .       /  -    N 

..  )..  ..n.    .,.,,,0  .nhal.ita..ts,  a,.,l  is  a  p..o«.vHHivv  li„|..  tew  ..    Tn.      i  " 
-yon.    DH.....  J.„u.tio,.  is  tl...  statio..  .,f  Widd.a....    Tl...  Ia,.,l.  a     s    ., 

Ma..!!.,  Ik.  call...!  ..xli.la.ati,.^?.     S.>Mu.ti„M.8  tl.rn.  is  a  little  anncar 

f- dca.  .,1  ,..l.|s  a,.o  patcl...s  of  swoc.t-H...olli...  .....kwhoat.     Ah  a  .-. 

ho  ro..os  s  oo..s.st  e..i..,v  of  g.-a,  ..ow,....  a,.„  the  t..n„|.s  of  „  ad' 

tru        I„   I:  ,0  su„..„o.-,  how,.v..,-,   the  l„.i||i.u,t  hlosso.ns  of  the  fi.-e 

VVoo,ls,K.U  ,s  the  statio,.  of  AW  /,/..,     ,,,,  „„,,  ,,      „,  .^  ^^       ' 
/>^..//  Sfano.,  i„  ,he  ..ei,,hho,-hoo.l  of  th..  fa„.o..s  .S/v//.I      ,   " ^  s 
watc..  .H  taken  the  Ia„,llock,.,l  sah„<.,.  o.-  "shi..e,,"  a  .ln.ine:.,.t  "J 
hsh,  ve..,  ,....eh  like  the  o..a„a..iehe,  hut  n.nnh.g'to  a  la;;^^       e  'Z 
«"  ove.-y  way  the  pee.-  of  its  ,.,0..  ,x.„ow,.e.l  .elative,  l^.t  is  at  ti 

nvc,.e,l      The  statu,,,  ol   Dee.-  I.tke,  42  „.iles  f,-o,„  Woo.lstoek    is  a 

:"'''""'  "'"^  ""'-'  ""^.V  K«'t  •vf.esh.nentH  i„  the  Btation  re8ta..,-ant 
;^>ce,  p..s.n,  the  statio.,s  of  i^u.he..  Da.n  an.I  r.aw..e,.ec,  w^^  i 
.,/  ,/«.o/..,  ,«  ...ilos  (Vo...   >,,AUa...;  he.-e  a  h.aneh  di  e.-gen  to  .S 

.Vry>/i.;,,  a  (listaiiec  of  19  ,„i|,.H.  ^  ' 

he  St.  C.O.X  R.ve.-.     It  ,s  a  ce,.t...-  of  the  h,„.be,-t,ade,  a..l  luts  gn,w- 
"K  n.an,.faet,..-es.     (;„„ti,„o,.s   with   St.  Stephen  is  AIMo^n   w i  h  a 
a.ge  c.,tton-,niII.     To,.the..  the  two  towns  have  a  populatio";  o    'e 
tween  4,000  a..,l  5,000.     Ae..ss  the  .-i ve,-,  and  fo.-n.m 'pr^Zl  y    u'o 

""•I'/'tan.s.     JJotween  these  eon.nn.nities,  though  they  .liffe,-  in  their 
Hllc.g.ance  and  theh-  flag,  there  exist  the  closest  hannony  and  most  ti. 


liTaaatasiasBaBW" 


■'W*.^ 


182 


UY    I4AII-    I-'KOM    \V(K>I)ST()(!K. 


mate  mu-ial  relations;  but  the  bri(l','e8  eonncetiiif?  tlieiii  are  (guarded 
by  tlie  eiistoins  ollieials  of  hotli  nations.  Nevertheless,  the  neighbor- 
hood affords  a  fine  field  for  interesting  and  sometimes  sueeessfid 
snuij^gling  experiments.  In  the  War  of  1812  St.  Stephen  and  ('ahiis 
refused  to  eome  to  blows,  jir  to  re^'ard  eaeh  (tther  as  enemies.  The 
eliief  hotel  of  St.  Stephen  is  the  Qnnn  llotd.  In  Calais  the  best  are 
the  Ameriean  House  and  St.  Oroix  Kxeiianf^e.  At  Milltown  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  riv«'r  is  elosed  by  falls.  A  steamer  runs  daily  in  smnmer, 
senii-vveekly  in  winter,  down  the  river  to  aSV.  Aiit/rrwH  and  h'us//)<>rf, 
eoimeetinij  with  the  boats  of  the  lutri'tiatimial  S.  S.  Co.  St.  Ste|)hen 
is  at  present  the  western  terminus  of  the  (t'rand  Sou/hern  liailwai/^ 
wliieh  runs  eastward  to  St.  John.  From  Calais  a  railway  runs  21  miles 
N.  W.  to  the  foot  of  the  Sc/toodir  Lakes,  whenee  a  small  steamer  as- 
cends to  the  famous  fishinj^-j^rounds  of  (trnud  Lakv  Htreain,  in  Maine. 
Tlie  lower  lake  is  oeeujjied  by  pike,  whieh  have  cleared  out  the  more 
valuable  game-(i!<h ;  but  the  upper  waters  abound  with  br(>ok-trout, 
lake-trout,  landlocked  salmon,  and  piekorel.  Near  the  foot  of  Big 
Schoodie  dwells  a  tribe  of  the  Quoddy  Indians,  among  whom  may  be 
hired  guides  to  the  labyrinths  of  lakes  and  streams  connecting  with  the 
Sehoodics.  By  short  portages  from  these  waters  one  may  reach  tribu- 
taries of  the  Penobscot  and  Machias. 

The  main  line  from  Watt  Junction  passes  the  little  stations  of  Dum- 
barton (3  miles  from  the  .Junction),  Rolling  Dam  (7  miles),  and  here  we 
touch  the  Dlgdiguash  River,  and  follow  its  course  some  miles  ;  Hewitt's 
(8  nnles),  Roix  Ro  td  (12  miles),  Waweig(14  miles),  Bartlett's  (16  miles), 
and  Chamcook  (22  nnles).  Here  the  scenery  becomes  impressive.  We 
skirt  l*assania([Uoddy  Bay.  Chamcook  Mountain  is  a  steep  and  solitary 
mass,  overlooking  the  bay  and  the  quiet  bosom  of  Chamcook  Lake.  A 
few  miles  above  Chamtnaok,  on  the  St.  Croix,  is  the  picturesque  inlet 
of  Oak  Bay.  At  this  point  the  St.  Croix  bends  at  right  angles  to  its 
course,  and  forms,  witii  Oak  Bay,  a  figure  much  resembling  a  cross, 
whence,  according  to  tradition,  is  derived  its  name.  Five  miles  beyond 
Chamcook  Station  we  run  into  the  delightful  watering-place  of  St.  An- 
drews, a  village  of  two  thousand  and  odd  inhabitants,  and  the  shire 
town  of  Charlotte  County. 

Acadian  history  makes  its  real  beginning  at  this  point.     To  the 
St.  Croix,  in  160t,  came  Champlain  and  the  Sifur  de  Monts,  and  planted 
a  colony  on  a  little  grassy  island  within  the  river's  mouth.     A  quad 
raugle  of  wooden  buildings  was  erected,  with  a  chapel,  and  the  Govern- 


" 


BY    KAIL    FROM    WnoDHTOCK. 


183 


or'a  rosi(l(>nci'.  In  spite  of  the  lafoncHs  of  tlio  Hcanon,  f^raln  and  vopo- 
tablcH  were  planted,  anil  a  garden  was  laiil  out,  after  the  fashion, 
faintly,  of  tiiose  olil  j^anh-ns  in  Franee,  for  whieh,  it  may  be,  the  colo- 
nists wore  now  a  little  lioniesiek.  Hut  in  the  hloak  days  of  late  autumn 
their  situation  was  dreary  enoufjh ;  ami,  beeausi;  their  crojis  had  failed 
to  ri|K'n,  they  wen-  eompelled  to  live  nuiinly  on  salt  meats,  a  diet  whieh 
speedily  alTeeted  their  health  and  s|)irits.  At  last  winter  came,  and  the 
snow,  and  the  freezing  winds;  such  cold  as  in  their  own  land  they  had 
never  learned  to  dr«'am  of.  The  sleet  drove  in  through  the  chinks  of 
their  ill-made  l)nildings.  Fuel  was  hardly  to  be  obtained,  and  they 
shivered  over  their  scanty  fires,  till,  in  spite  of  (Ihamplain's  indomitable 
and  never-failing  cheerfulness,  their  hearts  sank  utterly  within  them. 
When  disease  broke  out — scurvy  in  a  terrible  form,  from  their  un- 
wholesome living — they  fell  an  easy  prey.  ()\it  of  some  80  persons,  but 
44  survived,  and  these  hardly.  When  the  first  warm  days  came  they 
crawled  forth  in  the  sun  like  shadows.  Scarcely  could  the  sick  be  at- 
tended, tij  dying  ministered  to,  the  dead  buried.  In  the  spring  the 
island  was  abandoned,  stripped  of  all  that  could  be  canied  away ;  the 
fortifications  were  dismantled,  and  the  poor  remnant  of  the  colony  fled 
over  the  bay  to  Port  Royal.  Now,  the  lighthouse-kec^per  is  the  one  man 
who  makes  Kt.  Croix  Island  his  home.  When,  in  178;i,  the  St.  Croix 
River  was  fixed  upon  as  tlie  boundary  between  Maine  and  New  Bruns- 
wick, it  became  a  disputed  (piesticm  as  to  what  was  the  true  St.  Croix. 
The  Americans  claimed  that  it  was  the  river  now  known  as  the  Maga- 
guadavic,  much  farther  to  the  eastward ;  but  after  much  searching  the 
dispute  was  laid  to  rest,  and  the  Hritish  claim  established,  by  the  dis- 
covery of  the  remains  of  Champlain's  settlement,  on  Doncet's  Island, 
above  St.  Andrews. 

St.  Andrews  is  commandingly  situated  on  a  peninsula  between  the 
St.  Croix — at  this  point  two  miles  wide — and  Passamaquoddy  Bay.  It 
was  of  old  an  important  shipping  center,  with  a  great  West  Indian 
trade,  but  its  supremacy  has  been  stolen  and  divided  by  St.  John  and 
St.  Stephen.  The  town  is  well  laid  out,  in  squares,  with  wide  and  well- 
kept  streets,  and,  besides  its  charms  of  scenery  and  climate,  it  has  inter- 
esting remains  of  old  British  fortifications. 

St.  Andrews  has  expectations  of  a  great  commercial  future,  which 
may  or  may  not  be  realized,  though  her  harbor  is  certainly  all  that 
could  be  desired.  As  a  summer  resort  her  popularity  is  yearly  in- 
creasing.   She  has  her  cool  sea-breezes  in  the  hottest  months,  her  im- 


m 


M 


184 


BY   RAIL   FROM    WOODSTOCK. 


munity  from  the  Fundy  fogs,  her  fresh  and  salt  water  fishin-      More- 
over,  she  has  her  bathing,  joyously  indulged  in  by  gay  parties  of  young 
men  and  maidens,  old  men  and  children.     The  water,  however,  is  some- 
•    times  uncomfortably  cool.     A  favorite  diversion  at  St.  Andrews  is  the 
sport  of  lob.ster-spearing.     In  the  cool  of  the  morning,  when  the  tide 
suits,  there  is  a  novel  excitement  in  being  rowed  stealthily  over  the 
transparent  green  water,  while,  spear  in  hand,  one  peers  eagerly  into 
the  masses  of  brown  seaweed  that  dot  the  level  bottom.     In  these 
clumps  of  seaweed  lurks  our  bottle-green   prey,  closely  resemblin-  his 
surroundings  in  color,  but  betrayed  by  his  red  points.     The  lobster- 
spear  .s  not  a  spear  at  all,  but  a  hook.     It  does  not  penetrate  the  lob- 
ster's shell,  but  catches  under  its  belly  among  the  small  claws  ;  and  one 
must  be  neat-handed  and  swift  to  land  the  nimble  crustacean      The 
excitement  reaches  its  highest  pitch  after  a  few  active  lobsters  have 
been  captured  and  dropped  loose  in  the  boat,  to  investigate  the  merry 
hshei-men's  ankles.     In  the  way  of  hotels,  St.  Andrews  has  a  reoular 
hostelry  called  the  Cntral  Exchange,  also  the  large  summer  hotels^  the 
A>'!j,ill  House  and  the  Algonquin.     Opposite  the  town  is  the  American 
ship  building  village  of  Robbmston.    Travelers  who  have  come  straight 
t  irough  by  rail,  without  diverging  to  St.  Stephen,  will  do  well  to  vtsit 
the  latter  town  by  the  up-river  boat.     They  will  find  good   scenery  at 
Oak  Bay,  already  mentioned,  where  stands  the  lovely  pastoral  village 
of  the  same  name.     Leaving  Oak  Bay,  the  steamer  passes  on  the  left  a 
promontory  called  Devil's  Head,  named  in  somewhat  ambiguous  com- 
meu.oration  of  a  settler  named  Duval  who  once  dwelt  thereon      Three 
miles  beyond  is  the  ancient  fishing  village  known  as  The  Ledge-  and 
another  4  miles  brings  us  to  St.  Stephen.  '   '^   ' 


Campobello  and  Grand  Illanan. 

To  visit  the  summer  resorts  of  Grand  Manan  and  Campobello 

one  must  lake  the  boat  to  Eastport.  on  tiie  Maine  coast.  From  East- 
port  to  Campobello,  which  is  in  Canadian  waters,  a  ferrv-steamer  runs 
every  hour.  The  island  has  a  permanent  population  of  1.100  inhab- 
itants, dwelling  i-i  the  villages  of  Welchpool  ami  Wilson's  Beach  Cam- 
pobello is  8  miles  long  by  3  broad,  and  is  traversed  by  beautiful  drives 
commanding  magnificent  views  from  upland  and  lofty  promontory  Its 
anciont  name  was  Passamaquoddy  Island.  In  mi  it  was  granted  to 
Admiral  W.  Fitzwilliam  Owen,  who  used  to  pace  up  and  down  in  full 


7 


T 


BY   RAIL   FROM   WOODSTOCK. 


185 


uniform  on  a  quarter-deck  which  he  built  out  over  the  rocks     The 
ndmiral  was  not  less  peculiar  in  his  death  than  in  his  life,  for  he  was 
buned  at  night,  by  the  light  of  candles  in  the  little  family  church     The 
island  IS  redolent  with  romantic  memories  and  legends,  and  stories  of 
ghosts,  pirates,  and  wrecks.     During  the  Fenian  scare  of  1866  a  num. 
bar  of  ardent  Irishmen  gath.ered  at  Eastport  to  invade  Campobello,  but 
altered  their  benevolent  intention.     Admiral  Owen's  heirs  of  the  pres- 
ent generation,  becoming  lired  of  the  seclusion  and  quiet  of  Campo- 
bello, at  length  removed  to  England,  and  in  1880  the  island  was  pur- 
chased  by  a  syndicate  of  American  capitalists,  who  have  made  it  a  sum- 
mer resort  of  the  first  rank.     The  old  Owen  Manor-IIouse  has  been 
enlarged  into  a  most  attractive  hotel,  called  the   Given,  which  retains 
many  of  the  distinctive  charms  of  its  earlier  days-the  Lovers'  Lane 
and  the  old-fashioned  hedges,  sun  dial,  and  porter's  lodge.     Besides 
the   Owen,  the  Campobello  Company  has  erected  two  more  summer 
hotels  on  the  island.     These  are  peculiarly  handsome   and   strikin.^ 
buildings,  and  rejoice  in  the  equally  striking  names  of  the  Tiin-^i-Coedd 
and  the   Tyn-y-Mah,  which  signify  respectivelv  "The  House  in  the 
Wood  "  and  "  The  House  in  the  Field."     Smali'as  the  island  is,  it  has 
variety  ot  scenery,  and  points  of  interest  to  visit-such  as  the  lio^it- 
houses,  the  inlet,  of  Harbor  de  Lute,  the  bold  promontory  of  Eust°ern 
Head,  the  beautiful  cove  and  lake  of  Glen  Severn,  and  the  famous 
.andmark  known  as  Friar's  Head.     This  is  a  lofty  detached  mass  of 
rock  thrust  up  out  of  the  sea,  and  its  battered  face  bears  witness  to  the 
lact  that  u  has  been  used  as  a  target  for  the  guns  of  cruisino-  war- 
ships.  " 

The  island  of  Graud  Manan  lies  about  7  miles  off  the  coast  of 
Maine,  but  forms  a  portion  of  New  Brunswick.     Its  people  are  quaint 
and  hospitable,  its  summer  climate  delicious,  its  fishing  and  shootin- 
are  good,  and  its  scenery  a  well-nigh  matchless  blending  of  the  beau! 
tilul  and  the  grand.     Moreover,  it  is  not  a  rec,ular  summer  resort      It 
lies  out  of  the  beaten  tra-k,  and  is  as  yet  perfectly  unhackneyed.    There 
are  no  gigantic  summer  hotels,  and  the  visitor  must  as  a  rule  find  board 
in  private  house.,  whioh  he  may  do  very  comfortablv  and  pleasantly  at 
from  15  to  $7  a  week.     There  is  the  added  charm  of  uncertainty  as  to 
when  one  will  get  there;  and,  this  accon.plished,  as  to  when  one  will 
get  away.     Grand  Manan  is  reached  by  steamer  from  Eastport-verv 
easily  and  pleasantly  when  the  weather  suits,  and  not  at  all  when  the 
weather  does  not  suit.     There  is  also  communication  with  St.  John  by 


'-fi 


186 


BY   RAIL   FROM    WOODSTOOK. 


the  steamer  Flushing.  Its  harbors  are  small  and  not  easy  of  access, 
its  shores  are  terrific,  and  the  vaiiety  and  velocity  of  the  currents 
which  the  great  Fundy  tides  succeed  in  creating  in  the  island  channels 
are  something  which  must  be  seen  to  be  realized.  The  island  is  22 
miles  long,  with  an  extreme  breadth  of  6  miles.  It  lies  in  the  mouth 
of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and  has  about  3,000  inhabitants,  who  occupy 
chiefly  a  thin  line  of  settlements  along  the  E.  shore,  and  devote  them- 
selves  to  the  rich  fisheries  of  the  surrounding  waters,  which  simply 
swarm  with  cod,  haddock,  and  herring.  The  island  was  visited  by 
Champlain  in  1605,  but  for  nearly  two  centuries  thereafter  it  had  no 
inhabitants  bat  the  Indians.  The  Indians  of  Grand  Manan  are,  like  its 
white  inhabitants,  the  most  daring  and  skillful  of  fishermen'.  It  is 
marvelous  to  see  them  go  out  in  their  bark  canoes  upon  the  mighty 
waves  that  toss  about  those  shores,  and  shoot  porpoises,  whose  bodies 
in  some  miraculous  manner  they  drag  aboard  their  frail  craft  and  carry 
safely  to  land. 

The  chief  village  on  the  island  is   Grand  Harbor,  situated  on  a 
shallow  bay.     This  village  has  a  pretty  little  stone  church  and  a  typi- 
cal  country  inn.     Near  by  are  the  small  lakes  called  Grand  Ponds ;  and 
off  the  harbjr  lie  a  number  of  small  islands,  connected  with  memories 
of  Audubon,  who  spent  some  time  among  them  in  1833,  studying  the 
habits  of  the  gulls.     From  Grand  Harbor  a  road  leads  around  the  S. 
shore  to  Seal  Cove,  and  thence  along  the  heights  to  Broad  Cove.     Nine 
miles  off  the  coast  at  this  point  lie  the  Wood  Islands  and  Gannet  Rock 
Lighthouse.     From  Broad  Cove  a  foot-path  leads  to  Southwest  Head, 
a  lofty  promontory,  amid  the  grasses  of  whose  summit  the  sea-gulls 
build  their  nests.     Around  the  N.  shore,  8  miles  from  Grand  Harbor, 
lies  Whale  Cove,  with  surpassing  views,  and  a  beach  on  which  one 
may  pick  up  jasper  and  agates.     Close  by  is  Eel  Brook  Cove,  where 
the  ship  Lord  Ashburton  was  wrecked,  with  the  loss  of  all  on  board. 
A  little  farther  to  the  N.  is  the  cape  called  Bishop's  Head,  with  a  pro- 
file  thought  to  resemble  that  of  a  human  face.    Between  Grand  Harbor 
and  Whale  Cove  we  pass  through  Woodward's  Cove,  Flagg's  Cove,  and 
the  matchlessly  picturesque  and  artistic  village  of  Sprague's  Cove  nest- 
ling under  the  S.  shore  of  the  high  and  storm-beaten  peninsula  called 
Swallow-tail  Head.     The  W.  coast  is  a  frowning  wall  of  cliffs  from 
300  to  400  ft.   high,  in   which  are  the  wild  and  romantic  indenta- 
tions of  Dark  Cove  and  .Money  Cove,  where  the  ubiquitous  Captain 
Xidd  is  supposed  to  have  buried  some  of  his  treasure.     On  this  coast 


"-I- 


•Ji* 


BY   RAIL   FROM   WOODSTOCK. 


187 


also  is  Indian  beacli,  where  a  number  of  the  Quoddy  Indians  pass  the 
summer  engaged  in  the  porpoise-fishery  already  referred  to.  The 
island  is  in  telegraphic  communication  with  the  mainland  by  a  subma- 
rine cable  to  Eastport.  Very  lately  one  or  two  small  hotels  have  been 
erected,  the  most  prominent  of  which  is  the  Marble  Ridge  House,  near 
North  Head. 

In  the  time  of  Charlevoix,  if  we  may  trust  that  ancient  chronicler, 
there  existed  off  the  coast  of  Grand  Manan  a  marvel,  the  vanishing  of 
which  can  not  be  too  deeply  deplored.  "  It  is  even  asserted  that  at 
three  fourths  of  a  league  oft"  Isle  Menane,  which  serves  as  a  guide  to 
vessels  to  enter  St.  John's  River,  there  is  a  rock,  almost  alwnys  covered 
by  the  sea,  which  is  of  lapis-lazuli.  It  is  added  that  Commander  de 
Razilli  broke  off  a  piece,  which  he  sent  to  France,  and  Sieur  Denys, 
who  had  seen  it,  says  that  it  was  valued  at  ten  crowns  an  ounce." 


The  Return  to  St.  John. 

To  St.  John  we  may  go  either  by  boat  or  by  rail.  To  go  by  boat 
we  take  the  steamer  Charles  Houghton  from  St.  Stephen  or  St.  An- 
drews to  East/iort,  and  thence  the  International  S.  S.  Co.  boat  along 
the  coast  to  St.  John,  past  Deer  Island,  through  Friar's  Road  and  the 
Eastern  Passage,  through  wonderful  fishing  waters,  usually  dotted  with 
boats  and  sails,  past  the  West  Isles  and  the  grim  and  terrible  rocks 
called  the  Wolves,  past  the  far-seen  headland  of  Point  Lepreaux,  then 
the  landmark  called  Split  Rock,  and  round  the  dark  mass  of  Partridge 
Island  into  the  St.  John  Harbor. 

To  go  by  rail,  we  take  the  Grand  Southern  or  Shore  Line  at  St. 
Stephen,  its  western  terminus.  It  is  proposed  to  continue  this  line 
westward  through  the  coast  towns  of  Maine  to  Bangor.  Between  St. 
Stephen  and  St.  John  by  rail  is  a  distance  of  82  miles.  The  first  sta- 
tion out  of  St,  Stephen  is  Oak  Bay  (15  miles);  then  come  Dyer's  (20 
miles),  Bonny  River  (24  miles),  and  St.  George  (35  miles).  This  pretty 
little  town  has  an  extensive  trade  iti  lumber  and  in  the  magnificent 
product  of  its  red  granite  quarries.  The  town  is  on  a  high  i)lain.  Be- 
side it  flows  the  Magaguadavic  (commonly  called  Magadavy),  which 
plunges  into  the  harbor  over  a  fall  of  100  ft.,  through  a  chasm  not 
more  than  30  ft.  in  width.  On  the  sides  of  the  gorge  cling  saw-mills, 
from  which  the  new-cut  deals  are  sluiced  into  the  foamin?  basin  below. 
Near  St.  George,  in  a  neat  among  the  rounded  hills,  is  the  lovely  water 


188 


Tin-;  HKiituN   •(»  HI'.  .imiN. 


onlloil  t.oW  rfof>i,t,  \vlio<i-in  oih>  iiihv  Mini  hoiiic  ^^uimI  (n»iif  IInIiIiik.  The 
pninilulioii  of  Si.  (Icoij..-  in  1.000  mi,!  mlil.  \\oyo\u\  S|.  (;,Mnj-o  luv  llio 
sditioiiM  «>r  r.'imllcM  (Id  inlirs),  N,mv  |{Iv,  ,  ^Ml  miles),  l,.'|tn'nux  <ft8 
iiiil«>s),  I,(iiu«i»si,M-  (0(1  luil.-s),  MtiM.niKHli  (Yii  luil.'M),  mill  Spnu-.<  l.iiico 
(';t\  milos).  Spniiv  l,ulu>  Is  7  milrs  rnim  Si  .Inliii.  It  in  ii  piolly 
hI»»>«'|  or  wiil.M',  :.  miles  ill  liMivrdi,  mi.l  „|„im|iiiiily  hUioUimI  with  poirli, 
ll  is  (lie  Hoiin-e  iVimi  wliicli  ('nrlcloii  (linws  ils  wnlei'  siipplv.  MiMwecii 
SpniO(>  !,iiK»>  iiikI  Ciiili-ioii  evleinis  (lie  pieKv  diive  Known  mm  (he 
Miihogiuiy  Komi.     Tlie  lino  helweeii  St.  Sleplieii  iiml  S(.  .lolin  \h  |2.ftO. 

From  Mowotou  to  Amherst. 

l.onvlnit   Moiieloii  by  (lie  {/■Jirhx  /•.i/.m.*  onr  lit  si   M(oppiige   Is  ii(, 

I'liiiiMV   .Imielioii.    u    .lislnnee   «il'  N  miles.     Tlioiiee,    piissiii^v    Meiiilow 

HrooU.  we  run  duwii   (lie   vnlley  ol'  (lie  .]/nnr<nih',h>l-  (o  (lie  piospentiis 

At'iuiiiin   funning  vlllio;e  of  (lie  same   mime,  (lie  seal   of  Si.  .losepli",-* 

('.>lle;ve.     Mijilil  miles  l'arlli<>i'  on,  '27  niil»>s  IVom    Moiieion.  is  (lie  sleepy 

Iml    lieiuiiiCnl   liide   (own   of   /^t/.'/ifv/, r,  (Ik-   sliire   lown   oC  (lie  lieli 

ooiinfy  of  Wesinioreliiiul.      Doielnsler  wiis  oiiee  ii   fireiU   sliip-lHiiltiin^ 

I'.MKor,  iiml  eniKiiiiis  miu'li  wimIiIi,  lliougli  ils  liiisimss  is  (leeiiyin;j;.      I(. 

Ii««<  liinuisome  priviUo   residenei's,  impoiliiiK    freeslone  (piinries,  timi 

(lie  ipiesliomihle  (Kdiu'lioii   of   (lie    Mtirilime   Trovinees    I'enilenliiiry, 

wliieh  tinuvs  soiiio  visi(oi\s  (o  Doreliesler  wlio  mighi  mil   i;o  (liere  o(li^ 

er.>iso. 

From  Doivliosler  (lie  niilioii  I  nmsiieross  (lie  lt>p  of  (lie  lon^;  peiiiii- 
sulu  belwevMi  Sliepody  IJiiy  iiiid  ("iiml.erluml  Hasiii,  iiml  sliiUes  (lie  Inl- 
(of  lU  (lie  gnnviiijj;  (own  of  S,u'fii'i'/<\  MS  miles  f-oin  Mom-Ion.  Siiekville 
is  no(  ii  pivKy  town,  hut  it  is  prespomus  iiiui  projiivssive.  It  lias  a 
popiil.Xioii  of  nearly  L',00i».  an.l  is  tliinly  spread  out  over  a  siieei'SHioii 
of  low  lii.ls  of  v\y'\\  red  soil,  overlookim;  ilie  (i)r,if  7\ui/r<tm,n-  .U„rs/i,s 
ami  (lie  moiilli  of  (lie  Taiilramiir  l{iv«>r.  The  town  has  foundries  and 
f«o(ones,  is  (he  oontor  of  a  boundlessly  rich  a^rieuldir.il  ref;i«Mi,  and 
tho  western  (enninus  «)f  (he  (\i/»-  7'oniinifiin  h'oihmi/,  so  ealled,  whoso 
ollieirtl  title.  The  New  nninswiik  and  l'riiiet<  Kdwanl  Island  Uuilwav, 
is  .somowhal  larjiv  for  so  small  a  road,  but  ;)7  miles  in  Iimi^Hi.  It 
also  has  (he  important  eduealional  iiistitiilions  of  Mount  .\llison  Col- 
l»<jjo  and  Seminary  and  Hoys'  Sehool,  muler  the  aiispiees  of  the  Me;h- 
odists.  The  eliief  hotels  are  the  firumirivk  //,.»,sr  ami  /ii(fmt/o>ii,i/ 
Hofrl.  Saekville  is  a  ship-biiildin>r  eeiiter ;  and  all  aloii^-  the  pietiuvs<pu« 
»vmK  which   Kad^  throu-ih  the  \  i!!au;es  of  Westm-k,  Woodpoint,  and 


ti  J 


^M 


Cape  Porcupine.  Cape  St.  George,  from  Husti 


nys. 


ti 


":rn~r-~: 


1 


FROM   MONOION   TO   AMIIER8T. 


189 

Pvoekport,  down  the  peninsula  to  North  .Io.-i„s  one  ,n«v  «nn       i  • 

he  t,de  returns,  red  and  foaming,  and  the  noisy  current  Tushesfrlf 
land,  rcstn,g  not  till  the  chasm  is  full  to  its  .ra'ssv  hZ      V        u 
the  e.  ,.ng  process,  which  goes  on  ^lT£:Z^^Zj"::  ^Z 
to  the  utmost  of  the  ebb     T1>p  fironf  t„  *  «  tumult 

are  now  on  the  hthm^io  /i^*  rv  •       ^  f"']"«  *eicn.     >v  e 

of  the  Oulf  „,  S,  I  ?    ''■     '•'  "'''"'•  '"''"■<'«"  ">«  w»to« 

s.*:  r- ;r  r-' '  --"*-— ~ = 

-u.  _„Qn,..onng  v^eva  cfaauueis,  or  a  flooding  from  the 


190 


FROM   MONCTON   TO   AMHERBT. 


tide.  The  historic  interest  of  the  region  centers  around  tlic  ohl  Fort 
Cumberland^  or  "  Ueuusejoiir,''  wliich  stands  about  midway  across  the 
isthmus,  on  a  long  ridge  of  uplands  just  beyond  Aulac  Station. 

The  old  French  Fort  of  Heaus6jour  figures  very  prominently  in  the 
enchanting  pages  of  Parknian.  It  played  an  important  part  in  those 
events  which  culminated  in  the  expulsion  of  the  Acadians  in  1755. 
When  Acadie  was  ceded  finally  to  England,  the  French  claimed  that 
the  name  applied  only  to  the  peninsula,  and  not  to  that  portion  of  old 
Acadie  which  now  constitutes  New  Brunswick.  They  made  the  line  of 
the  Missiguash  (a  tidal  stream  cleaving  the  marshes  just  S.  E.  of 
Beaus^jour)  the  dividing  line  between  French  and  English  territory,  and 
raised  the  strong  fort  of  Beausd'jour  to  guard  these  limits.  A  little 
beyond  tho  Missiguash  runs  a  line  of  low  uplands,  on  which  the  English 
erected  the  v,-p{><>sing  stronghold  of  Fort  Lawrence.  Back  of  Fort  Law- 
rence, on  undoubtedly  English  territory,  clustered  the  thriving  Acadian 
village  of  Bcaubassiv.  Between  the  rival  forts  went  on  continual 
skirmishings.  Bcaus^jour  was  a  center  of  operations  for  the  unscru- 
pulous Abbe  Le  Loutre,  who  devoted  his  energies  to  keeping  the  sore 
open  between  the  Acadians  of  the  peninsula  and  their  new  masters. 
Many  of  these  Acadians  he  forced  by  threats  and  actual  violenct>  to  de- 
sert their  farms  and  rei  love  to  French  territory,  where  many  of  them 
suffered  every  privation.  When  he  saw  the  village  of  Beaubassin 
prosperous  and  growing  content  with  English  rule,  he  and  his  Indian 
followers  burnt  the  settlement,  and  compelled  the  villagers  to  gather 
about  Beausejour.  On  one  occasion,  when  a  party  of  English,  under 
Lieutenant  Howe,  were  approaching  from  Fort  Lawrence  with  a  flag  of 
truce,  they  v/ere  fired  upon  by  the  abbe's  Christianized  savages  from 
behind  a  dike,  and  Howe  was  slain.  For  this  infamous  piece  of  treach- 
ery Le  Loutre  was  openly  blamed  by  the  French  officers  of  Beausejour, 
and  his  unscrupulous  policy  incurrv'^d  also  the  reprobation  of  the  best 
of  the  Acadian  parish  priests.  In  lYSS  Governor  Shirley,  of  Massa- 
chusetts, and  Governor  I^awrence,  of  Nova  Scotia,  undertook  the  re- 
duction of  Beausejour.  The  Massachusetts  troops  were  led  by  Colonel 
John  Winslow.  The  whole  expedition  was  commanded  by  General 
Monckton.  The  French  defense,  conducted  by  the  disreputable  com- 
mandant Vergor,  a  tool  of  Bigot's,  was  of  the  feeblest  Le  Loutre 
proved  himself  by  far  the  better  soldier.  To  this  day  we  may  see  in 
the  vaulted  ceiling  of  the  bomb-proof  the  great  hole  made  by  an 
English  shell  which  came  through  when  the  officers  were  at  breakfast, 


t 


FROM   MONCTON    TO    AMHERST. 


191 


■^ 


and  in  its  explosion  Itilled  six  of  them,  toj^ctlier  with  nn  English 
officer  who  liad  been  tal<on  prisoner  a  lew  days  before.  Tiiis  settled 
the  contest ;  and,  in  spite  of  tlie  passionate  protest  of  Le  Loutre  and 
one  or  two  officers,  Verj^or  capitulated.  In  the  evening  a  body  of 
British  troops  marched  in,  and  Vergor  celebrated  his  brilliant  defense 
by  a  dinner  to  the  French  and  English  officers — at  which,  however, 
Le  Loutre  was  not  present,  having  escaped  in  disguise.  After  its 
capture  the  fort  was  rechristened  Fort  Cumberland. 

After  rounding  the  slope  of  Fort  Cumberland  we  cross  the  Missi- 
guash  and  come  to  Fort  Lawrence  Station,  whence  we  see  a  little  to 
our  right  the  works  of  the  Chignecto  Ship  Railway — which  will 
be  most  conveniently  visited,  liowever,  from  Amherst,  a  couple  of  miles 
beyond.  On  the  skirts  of  Amherst  we  cross  the  little  tidal  stream  of 
the  La  Planche,  and,  quitting  the  marshes,  run  into  the  busy  depot, 
thronged  with  freight-cars. 

As  soon  as  we  crossed  the  Missiguash  we  were  in  the  province  of  Nova 
Scotia,  which  will  b*^  referred  to  more  fully  in  another  place.  Amherst 
is  a  very  busy  town,  whose  population  of  between  4,000  and  5,000 
is  increasing  with  great  rapidity.  It  lies  49  miles  from  Moncton,  138 
from  Halifax.  Its  people  arc  remarkable  for  their  enterprise.  It  has 
a  number  of  handsome  public  end  private  buildings,  along  with  much 
of  the  crudity  of  a  new  town.  With  a  rich  agricultural  and  mining 
country  behind  it,  and  its  practical  control  of  the  traffic  of  the  Ship 
Railway,  now  nearly  completed,  the  outlook  is  very  bright  for  the  future 
of  Amherst.  It  has  a  short  railway  running  down  the  coast  to  the 
coal-mines  of  South  Joggins,  interesting  to  visitors  as  the  place  where 
the  monster  rafts  of  logs  are  put  together  to  be  towed  to  the  New 
York  market.  But,  of  course,  the  chief  "  lion "  of  Amherst,  which 
can  not  but  continue  a  perennial  attraction  to  tourists,  is  the  Ship  Rail- 
way just  mentioned. 

The  originator  and  promoter  of  the  Chignecto  Ship  Railway  is  Mr. 
H.  G.  C.  Ketchum,  M.  I.  C.  E.,  a  distinguished  Canadian  engineer,  who 
advocated  the  scheme  for  years  before  he  could  convince  people  of  its 
feasibility.  Ever  since  the  beginning  of  the  century  there  has  been  a 
demand  for  a  canal  across  the  isthmus,  in  the  way  of  which,  however, 
there  have  a  ways  been  found  great  difficulties.  All  the  purposes  of  a 
canal,  and  many  more,  will  be  served  by  the  ship  railway  at  a  much 
less  cost.  Associated  with  Mr.  Ketchum  in  the  enterprise  are  the  great 
English  engineers  Sir  John  Fowler  and  Sir  Benjamin  Baker.      The 


■  ■  "I  III  lull  iiiiin  I 


■«im»|inimi 


102 


FROM   MONCTON   TO    AMIIERHT. 


broad  roa(l.b,(i,  carrying  a  (loiil.lc  track  18  ft.  wide  from  center  to 
center,  runs  fro...  tlie  ,„o..th  (.f  the  La  Planche  to  Tidnisl,  on  North- 
umberland  Ht.ait.     A  vast  dock  h  being  constructed  at  each  ter.n.nnH 
At  the  inner  end  of  the  dock  in  a  lifting-dock  2ao  ft.  long  by  00  ft' 
w.de,  on  which  ships  of  1,000  ton«  will  ho  lifted  by  powerful  hyd.anlic 
presses  a  he.ght  of  40  ft.  without  disturbh.g  their  ea.-goes  o   their  pas- 
sengc-s.     The  sh.p.car.iagc,  on  which  the  ship  will  be  hauled  by  two 
gigant.c  locomotives  ha.-nes8ed  abreast,  so  to  speak,  is  called  the  e.adlc 
and  d.v.do8  the  great  weight  on  240  wheels.    The  cadle  is  235  ft  Ion-' 
and  may  cany  either  one  large  ship  or  two  smaller  vessels.     IJy  this 
route  ships  f.-om  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Great  L.kes  for  St.  John 
and  the  Xew  E..gland  coast,  which  now  have  to  go  thi-ough  the  Gut  cf 
tanso,  or  m  some  weather  all  the  way  round  Cape  Breton,  will  save  in 
the  fo.-mer  case  500  .niles,  in  the  latter  case  700  ..dies.     The  amount 
of  tonnage  belo.iging  to  St.  Lawrence  and  Fundy  ports,  which  may  be 
expected  t.  n.ake  use  of  this  ship  railway,  amounted,  in  1888,  to  not 
less  than  10,182,327  tons,  which  is  exclusive  of  the  lake  fleets  and  the 
Ame.-,can  fishing  fleets.     The  toll  o..  the  railway  will  be  50  cents  a  ton 

^^oZww!  "w,  ''  ''"''  "  *'"  ""  '""•^-  '^•'^  '-'^"^^•^y  ^••"  «««*  -bout 
$6,000,000.     When  .t  is  completed  a  line  of  steamers  will  run  between 

.V.  Jo/m  and  Charlottdown,  and  the  traveler  will  have  the  novel  ex- 
pc-ience  of  watching  tVorn  his  vessel's  decks  a  lovely  landseapo  of 
meadows  and  orcha.-ds  unroll  below  him  as  he  .noves  slowly  across  the 
isthmus.  The  sensation  will  be  unique,  as  this  is  the  wo.ld's  only  ship 
railway.  ^ 

At  present  we  reach  Fort  Law.ence  and  the  railway  works  by 
a  dnv.  across  the  n.a.sh  from  Amherst,  but  it  is  p.-oposed  to 
open  .shortly  an  electric  railway  between  the  two  points.  The  Tid- 
nish  terminus  is  reached  by  stage  f.om  Amherst.  The  best  hotels 
of  Amherst  are  the  Terrace  Hotel  and  the  Amherst  Hotel.  F.om  here 
we  may  continue  on  by  the  Intercolomal  RaUwai/  to  Truro  a  dis- 
tance of  7»i  miles,  and  thence  either  to  UaHfax  or  to  Pietou  P.  E. 
Island,  a.id  Cape  Breton.  The  ro..te  wo  propose  following  at  present, 
however,  now  takes  us  back  to  Fainsec  Junction,  8  miles  this  side 
of  Mo.icton. 


s 


o 

"^ 

a 


1. 


Ill 

I 


PRINCE    REWARD   IHLAND. 


198 


PRINCE   EDWARD  ISLAND. 


The  faro  from  Moncton  to  Charlottetown  by  way  of  Point  du 
Chene  and  Sum,ner.^de  in  |8.50 ;  return.  «5.;m.  Fro,,.  Painsc-c  Junction 
to  Po,nt  du  Chfine  Is  12  milos.  Nine  mllcH  f.-on.  the  Junction  we  come 
to  the  pretty  nummor  resort  of  Shediac,  a  village  fan,ous  for  Its  oysters 
and  Its  sea-bathmg.  Shedluc  has  a  ve,ygood  hotel,  the  WeUon  House 
and  .s  much  frequented  during  the  hot  ,„onths  by  the  citizens  of  JW 

TZv  ""!.  V-?  1''"'  '*•'''■  ^"'"'^  '>' '  <^'>'»»>i»"tlon  of  dust  and  heat. 
At  Shcl.ac  the  tide  flows  In  over  long  stretches  of  red  and  sun-warmed 
sand,  and  its  temperature  at  high  water  is  luxurious.     Point  du  Chcne 
.B  a  sandy  promontory  3  miles  long,  running  out  from  Shcdiac  into  the 
waters  of  Northumberland  Strait.     About  its  wharves  clusters  a  village 
From  this  point  the  fine  steamers  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Navigation  Co  sail 
l!hn  ^'Lf "T^'-f «  «"  '^'  ^"^^^  «f  the  morning  express  from  St. 
John.     The  steamboat  fare  from  Shediac  to  ^Mm,»m«/.  is  $160      The 
distance  Is  36  miles.     Our  first  sight  of  the  Island  Is  a  glimpse  of  the 
low  red  chffs  of  Cape  Egmont,  far  on  our  left.     Soon  afterward  we  are 
steaming  up  Bedcque  Ray,  at  the  head  of  which  lies  the  prosperous  and 
dusty  ship-buildmg  town  of  Summerside,  with  a  population  of  some- 
thing  over  3,000  and  a  heavy  export  trade  In  agricultural  produce 

call Jh  tv  r'  ^r'Tu^"  '™'"''*  '*  '^'  confederation.  Is  sometimes 
called  the  Garden  of  the  Gulf.  It  Is  separated  from  New  Brunswick 
and  Nova  Scotia  by  Northumberland  Strait,  whose  ice  in  winter  some- 
times  shuts  off  the  island  from  communication  with  the  rest  of  tho 

with  difficulty  and  danger  by  means  of  open  boats,  which  are  alter- 
nately dragged  over  the  Ice-cakes  and  pushed  through  the  loose  ice  for 
a  distance  of  9  miles  between  Cape  Traverse  on  the  island  and  Cape 
Tormentine  on  the  New  Brunswick  shore.  The  Canadian  Government 
spends  great  sums  every  year  in  the  effort  to  keep  open  during  the  win- 
ter a  ma.1  and  passenger  communication,  and  has  had  constructed  a 
powerful  steamer  the  Stanley,  especially  designed  for  penetrating  the 

If  thJ  n  ^""*' ^"l^^^'-'  ^'^'^  »«t  be  said  to  meet  all  the  requirements 
of  the  case.  The  islanders  are  demanding  a  tunnel  or  a  subway  be- 
tween  Cape  Traverse  and  Cape  Tormentine,  and,  gigantic  as  the  scheme 
appears,  it  will  doubtless  ere  long  become  an  accomplished  fact 

Ine  extreme  Innot),  nt  t>j,;v,-,„  pj i  r  ,      ,   .     ,_. 

.—_-..  ..I  ,  r.nve  i^unuxa  iwland  is  ifio  miles  and  ita 


194 


PKINCE    EDWAKD   ISLAND. 


greatest  width  84  miles.     Owing  to  its  numerous  bays  and  inlets  it  has 
an  enormous  extent  of  coast-line.      It  has  no  lofty  hills,  no  rocks,  no 
barrens,  but  is  everywhere  cultivable.     Its  soil  is  a  rich,  red  loam,  mar- 
velously  productive,  from  the  prevailing  color  of  which  the  islanders 
get  their  local  nickname  of  "  Redfeet,"  to  distinguish  them  from  the 
"Bluenoses"  of  Nova  Scotia  and  the  "Buckwheats"  of  New  Bruns- 
wick.    The  island  is  particularly  noted  for  its  oats,  potatoes,  horses, 
and  oysters,  and  has  fisheries  of  great  value.     There  is  some  good 
trout-fishing  in  the  little  rivers  which  intersect  the  island,  and  along  in 
June  fascinating  sport  may  be  had  with  a  scarlet  fly,  casting  in  the 
bays  and  inlets  for  the  sea-trout,  which  at  that  season  come  in  in  great 
numbers  from  the  gulf.    These  are  a  magnificent  game-fish,  running 
from  3  to  5  pounds  in  wei^'ht,  and  are  usually  taken  by  casting  from 
side  to  side  while  running  before  a  light  breeze.    One  of  the   best 
places  for  this  fishing  is  Sf.  Peter's  Bay,  about  30  miles  from  Char- 
lottetown,  the  provincial  metropolis. 

The  history  of  the  island  is  not  exciting,  and  derives  such  color  as 
it  has  chiefly  from  the  Acadians.    It  is  said  to  have  been  visited  by 
Cabot  in  1497.     Champlain  considered  himself  its  discoverer,  touching 
its  shores  on  St.  John's  day,  1608,  and  naming  it,  with  his  usual  lack 
of  invention,  Isle  St.  Jean.     At  this  time  it  was  inhabited  by  the  Mic- 
macs,  who  gave  it  the  name  of  Epayguit,  or,  as  it  is  better  spelled, 
Abegweit,  which  signifies  "  Anchored  on  the  Wave."  .  Early  in  the 
eighteenth  century,  when  England  had  conquered  Nova  Scotia,  a  few 
Acadians  moved  to  the  island,  where  they  prospered  so  that  the  settle- 
ment rapidly  increased.     In  1758,  when  it  was  taken  possession  of  by 
the  English,  it  had  a  population  of  4,100  Acadians.     In  1763  it  be- 
came a  part  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  was  granted  in  lots  tu  100  English 
and  Scotch  gentlemen,  who  undertook  to  colonize  their  grants  within 
ten  years.     In  1770  the  island  was  made  a  tieparute  province,  and  its 
infant  capital  was  captured  by  the  Americans  in  1775,  who,  however, 
did  not  hold  it  long.     In  18<^0  it  received  its  present  name,  in  honor  of 
the  Duke  of  Kent,  the  father  of  Queen  Victoria.     In  1803,  800  Scotch 
Highlanders  were  settled  in  the  island  by  the  Earl  of  Selkirk,  and  the 
population  increased  rapidly  by  immigration.     The  province  entered 
the  Canadian  Confederation  in  1873. 

From  Summerside,  whose  chief  hotels  are  Russ's,  CampbeH's,  and  the 
Mnwlei/  Hume  (known  also  as  the  Clifton),  one  may  follow  the  P.  E.  I. 
R.  R.  north  through  St.  Eleanors,  Miscouche,  Wellington,  Port  Hi!!  U 


'-'Ba.ly 


t«; 


a 


■-0 


PRLNCE   EDWARD   ISLAND. 


195 


8h.p.bm  d.ug  village  on  Richmond  Bay),  Richmond,  Northam,  Port 
Hm,  Ellersue,  Conway,  Portage  (where  the  island  is  not  more  than 
4  or  5  miles  wide),  Colman,  O'Leary,  Bloomfield,  Flmsdale,  all  com- 
paratively  uninteresting  little  settlements,  and  run  into  Alberton,  55 
miles  from  Summerside.     This  is  a  prosperous  ship-building  and  fish 
mg  village  on  Cascumpeque  Harbor,  and  has  about  900  inhabitants 
It  is  interesting  as  the  birthplace  of  the  Gordons,  the  two  mission^ 
ary  martyrs  of  Eromanga.     The  chief  inn  of  Alberton  is  the  Albion 
House     Leaving  Alberton  we  pass  the  stations  of  Montrose,  Kildare 
.jnd  De  Blois,  and  reach  the  northern  terminus  at  Ti<;nish,  68  miles' 
from  bummerside.     This  little  village  of  Scotch  and  Acadian  Cath- 
olics is  an  important  fishing  center.     It  has  a  village  inn   called 
Ryan  s  Hotel     A  drive  8  miles  northward  through  the  sand-hills  brings 
us  to  the  land's-end  of  the  province,  North  Cape. 

From  Summerside  to  Charlottetown,  a  distance  of  49  miles  we 
traverse  a  pretty  pastoral  country,  whose  endless  succession  of  farms 
and  farming  hamleto  wear  an  unvarying  air  of  prosperity  and  com- 
fort.    The  journey  stands  out  in  one's  memory  chiefly  on  account  of 
the  curious  little  railway,  with  its  gauge  of  only  3  ft.  6  inches,  winding 
hither  and  thither  as  if  to  visit  every  farmer's  door.     It  is  said  that  a 
tourist  was  once  startled  by  what  appeared  to  be  a  train  about  to  crash 
mto  the  rear  car  of  that  on  which  he  was  traveling.     It  turned  out 
however,  to  be  only  the  locomotive  of  his  own  train,  which  was  round' 
mg  a  peculiarly  exaggerated   curve.     Just   beyond   Summerside  the 
island  IS  but  a  little  over  3  miles  wide,  being  almost  severed  here  by 
Kichmond  Bay  on  the  one  side  and  Bedeque  Bay  on  the  other     Nine 
miles  from  Summerside  is  the  station  of  Kensington,  whence  a  road 
leads  to  Princctown,  a  village  on  the  N.  shore,  which  was  laid  out  in 
squares  as  a  town,  and  still  awaits  the  population  that  never  came 
^ear  by,  on  the  safe  harbor  of  Malpeque,  is  the  village  of  the  same 
i^T;  *,,^'"^'f"*  watering-place,  with  a  comfortable  inn  called  the 
Mrth  Shore  Hotel.     Leaving  Kensington   we  pass  the  stations  of 
Blueshank  and  Freetown,  and  come  to  EmeralclJunction,  whence  a  rail- 
road runs  to  Cape  Traverse.     The  succeeding  stations  are  of  no  inter, 
est  till  we  come  to  Hunter  River,  a  good  trout-stream,  whence  a  high-' 
way  leads  N.  to  the  villages  of  New  Glasgow  and  Rustico.     The  latter 
18  a  quiot  and  delightful  summer  resort,  with  a  small  but  good  summer 
hotel,  the  Rmtico  Home,  on  the  sands  of  Rustieo  Beach.    There  are  -ood 
bathing  an<!  boating  iu  the  harbor,  which  is  rendered  unsafe,  however 


I  I 


196 


PRINCE    EDWAKD   ISLAND. 


for  ships  of  any  size,  by  its  shifting  sand-bars,  thrown  up  by  the  gulf 
waves.  There  are  also  good  shooting  and  fishing  in  the  neighborhood. 
The  village  has  but  250  inhabitants,  yet  it  was  once  daring  enough  to 
own  a  bank — the  Farmers'  Bank  of  Rustico — whose  charter  has  ex- 
pired. Along  the  shore  to  the  eastward  lie  Shaw's  Beach,  with  a  good 
summer  hotel  (Shaw's),  and  Tracadie  Harbor  (Lome  Hotel),  which  are 
favorite  resorts  for  the  citizens  of  Charlottctown.  The  villages  of 
Tracadie  and  Covehcad  are  Gaelic  settlements,  and  near  by,  on  French 
Fort  Creek,  stood  of  old  a  French  fortress,  protecting  the  short  portage 
of  1^  miles  from  the  head  of  the  Hillsborough  River  to  Tracadie  Harbor. 
From  Hunter  River  Station  we  pass  North  Wiltshire,  Colville,  Mil- 
ton, Winsloe,  and  arrive  at  Royalty  Junction,  whence  diverge  the  lines 
to  Georgetown  and  Souris.  Six  miles  more  and  we  sweep  around  the 
city  of  Charlottctown,  and  enter  the  depot  on  the  E.,  bet»vocn  the  city 
and  the  Hillsborough  River.  In  the  depot  the  train,  on  its  narrow, 
shining  rails,  looks  more  than  ever  like  a  toy  affair. 

Charlottctown. 

The  chief  hotels  of  Charlottctown  are  the  Hotel  Davies  and  the 
Queen.  There  is  also  the  Osborne,  a  comfortable  house,  and  numerous 
smaller  hotels.  Their  coaches  meet  the  trains  and  boats.  There  are 
no  horse-cars,  but  the  livery  charges  are  moderate.  The  steamer  St. 
Lawrence,  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Steam  Navigation  Co.,  plies  between  Char- 
lottctown and  Pictou.  The  steamer  Carroll,  of  tlie  P.  E.  I.,  Halifax, 
and  Boston  Line,  leaves  once  a  week  for  Boston.  Fare,  17.50.  The 
fortnightly  boat  cf  the  Quebec  S.  S.  Co.  calls  here.  The  little  steamer 
Heather  Bell  leaves  Charlottctown  for  Orwell  every  Tuesday,  Wednes- 
day, and  Thursday.  The  Southport  sails  to  West  River  on  Tuesdays 
and  Fridays,  and  to  Rocki/  Point  every  day  but  Mondays  and  Thurs- 
days. The  steam-ferry  Eljfin  plies  between  Charlottctown  and  South- 
pnrt  every  half-hour  from  5  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m. 

Charlottctown  lies  on  the  N.  shore  of  the  Hillsborough  River.  Its 
harbor  is  capacious  and  secure,  and  is  formed  by  the  meeting  of  the 
Hillsborough,  York,  and  Elliott  Rivers,  more  generally  known  as  East, 
North,  and  West  Rivers.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  its  streets 
running  E.  and  W.,  and  intersected  by  streets  running  N.  and  S. 
There  are  4  large  squares,  and  the  broad  streets,  100  ft.  in  width,  seem 
a  shade  too  roomy  for  the  11,485  inhabitants.  For  the  most  part  the 
buildings  are  of  wood  and  entirely  unimposing,  but  the  Parliament 
Houses  occupy  a  handsome  stone  structure  on  Queen  Square,  at  the 
head  of  Great  George  St.   The  same  building  contains  the  good  collection 


.. 


PRINCE   EDWARD  ISLAXD. 


197 


of  the  Legislative  Library.     From  its  cupola  may  be  had  an  cxceedinirly 
attractive.and  commanding  view  of  the  city  and  its  surroundings.     On 
the  same  square,  which  is  adorned  with   a   fountain  and  well  kept 
flower-beds,  and  where  the  band  plays  to  the  moving  crowd  on  summer 
evenings,  stands  the  handsome  new  stone  pile  of  the  Post-Office.     Near 
by  is  the  great  wooden  structure  of  the  City  Market,  which  looks  like 
a  weather-beaten  compromise  between  a  barn  and  a  country  meeting- 
house.    It  is  the  thing  for  tourists  to  visit  this  building  on  markel 
days  m  the  morning,  when  they  will  see  some  quaint  Gaelic  and  Acadian 
types.     Around  this  square  chiefly  congregate  the  shops  of  Charlotte- 
town.     Not  far  down  Great  George  St.  rises  the  roomy  Cathedral  of 
St.  Dunstan,  the  seat  of  the  Roman  Catholic  bishop.     On  Hillsborough 
Square,  farther  to  the  W.,  is  the  large  brick  Convent  of  Notre  Dame 
and  near  by  are  the  Normal  School  and  Pri7ice  of  Wales  College     In 
tlie  same  quarte.  of  the  city  is  the  parade-ground,  between  Sidney  and 
Pownal  Sts.,  presided  over  by  the  barracks  and  drill-shed     Still  far- 
ther W.,  on  a  projecting  point  of  land,  occupied  also  by  the  charminn- 
bit  of  woodland  called  the  Park,  the  cricket  and  foot-ball  field,  and  the 
delightful  lawn-tennis  grounds,  stands  the  Government  House,  with  a 
lovely  outlook  over  the  blue  and  quiet  waters  of  the  harbor.    Here  one 
realizes  that  contented  note  of  the  Charlottetown  landscape  which  led 
the  discoverers  of  the  haven  to  call  it  "Port  la  Joie."    There  is  capital 
lawn-tennis  and  foot-ball  playing  in  Charlottetown,  where  was  h(>ld  the 
first  tournament  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  Lawn-Tennis  Association. 
Whether  the  city  be  found  a  pleasant  summer  resort  or  not  depends 
chiefly  on  the  visitors  themselves.     Charlottetown  society  is  found  ex- 
ceedingly charming  and  hospitable  by  those  who  go  there  duly  accred- 
ited.     To  the  absolute  stranger  its  attractions  are  not  great,  for  there 
IS  no  very  remarkable  scenery,  and,  away  from  the  chief  square,  the 
wide  streets  look  all  alike,  and  all  equally  uninteresting.     One's  im- 
pressions of  the  city  may  be  marvelously  changed  by  one  or  two  letters 
of  introduction.     Outside  of  the  city,  and  overlooking  it,  in  a  re-ion  of 
pleasant  villas,  stand  the  Wesleyan  College  and  the  Roman  C^atholic 
College  of  St.  Dunstan.     By  ferry  one  may  visit  the  pleasant  village  of 
Southport,  on  the  opposite  sh-e  of  the  Hillsborough  River   in  the 
neighborhood  of  which  is  the  alleged  height  called  Tea  Hill,'  with  a 
sweet  pastoral  view  from  its  low  summit.     The  principal  summer  resort 
IS  at  Grand  Traeadie  Beach,  ]3  miles  distant,  where  the  Hotel  Acadie 
IS  open  during  the  season. 


198 


FROM   CIIARLOTTETOWN    EASTWARD. 


From  Charlottetown  eastward. 

From  Royalty  Junction,  5  miles  out  of  Cliarlottctown,  the  traveler 
wlio  wishes  to  do  the  island  thoroughly  may  take  the  train  eastward. 
Passing  the  little  stations  of  Union,  York,  Suffolk,  Hedford,  and  Tra- 
cadie,  along  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Hillsborough  River,  we  come  to 
Mf.  Stewart  Junction,  22  miles  from  the  city.     At  this  point  a  branch 
diverges  southeastward,  24  miles  to  Georgetown,  on  the  east  coast; 
while  the  Tuain  line  continues  along  the  north  shore  to  Souris,  which  is 
also  en  the  east  coast  some  20  miles  north  of  Georgetown.     From  Mt. 
Stewart  Junction,  a  thriving  village  devoted  to  ship-building,  we  traverse 
a  rather  thinly-settled  country,  passing  the  stations  of  iisquid,  Peak's, 
JJaldwin's,  and  Perth,  till  we  come  to  the  village  of  Cardigan,  on  the 
head  of  Cardigan  Ray,  whence  the  high-road  leads  to  Vernon  River  and 
Pownal.    It  n<ay  be  said  here,  in  parentheses,  that  the  pleasantest  way  to 
get  to  Mt.  Stewart  Junction  is  by  the  little  steamer  Heather  Bell  from 
Charlottetown.     Cardigan  :■   18  miles  from  the  junction;  and  0  miles 
farthei-,  running  down  the  long  promontory  between  Cardigan  Rav  and 
Georgetown  Harbor,  we  come  to  Georgetown,  a  prosperous  village  of 
1,118  inhabitants,  with  a  large  shipping  trade  in  agricultural  produce. 
The  harbor  is  the  best  winter  port  on  the  island,  and  least  liable  to  ob- 
struction by  the  ice.     Steamers  from  Pictou  for  the  Magdalen  Islands 
call  here  on  their  way.     The  town  is  well  laid  out,  and  is  the  county 
seat  of  King's  County,  the  most  easterly  of  the  three  counties  into 
which  this  little  province  is  divided.     At  the  head  of  the  harbor  flows 
in  the  Brudenelle  River.     The  chief  inn  of  Georgetown  is  the  Com. 
wercial  Hotel. 

The  more  northern  line  to  Souris  reaches  Morell  Station  8  miles 
east  of  Mt.  Stewart.  This  is  a  fishing  village  on  the  little  Morell  River. 
Thence  the  railway  skirts  St.  Peter's  Bay  for  7^  miles  to  the  village  of 
St.  Peter's,  the  chief  fishing  town  on  the  north  shore.  The  bay  is 
famous  for  its  valuable  salmon-fisheries,  and  has  been  already  referred 
to  as  the  best  place  on  the  island  for  sea-trout.  Tourists  in  search  of 
this  sport  may  stay  at  the  little  inn  called  the  Prairie  Hotel,  or  they 
may  obtain  board  at  private  houses.  The  bay  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water, 
more  than  7  miles  in  length,  but  its  usefulness  as  a  haibor  is  somewliat 
impaired  by  the  fact  that  there  is  less  than  6  ft.  of  water  on  the  bar 
that  crosses  its  mouth.  Leaving  St.  Peter's  we  pass  the  stations  of 
Ashton,  Selkirk,  Bear  River,  Nev^  Zealand,  and  Ilarmonv,  whence  roads 


•  » 


„ 


V 
o 


5" 


„ 


mkmm 


FROM   OITAUI.OrrETOWN   EASTWAUD. 


199 


load  inland  Houthwontward  to  the  (Jaclic  HcttloinentH  of  Annandale, 
DoughiH,  and  Hridgi'town,  on  (J rand  lUvcr,  where  one  may  study  Homo 
quaint  old  eiiHtoniH  and  a  life  tliat  pntHcrvew  itH  individuality  with  great 
porHirttenco.  Sonris  itself,  H  miles  Ix'yond  Harmony,  is  a  (iaelic  village 
of  7<M)  inliabitantH,  dc^votwl  to  fishing  and  nhip-building.  Its  harbor, 
Oolville  Buy,  is  protected  by  a  breakwater.  The  village  earricH  on  nn 
oxtenHlvo  trade  with  the  French  island  of  St.  Pierre,  off  the  cuast  of 
Newfouudlimd.  Not  far  from  Houris  lie  the  shallow  coast  pools  of 
East  and  North  Lakes ;  and  beyond,  the  island  runs  off  to  a  beacon- 
guarded  termination  at  East  Point. 

At  Houris  or  (Jeorgetown  one  may  take  the  steamer  St.  Ola/  (or  the 
Magdalen  IisIandH,  if  the  attractions  of  ren  '»teness  and  sea-trout 
fishing  prevail.  The  St.  Ohif  leaves  I'U'ton,  N.  S.,  every  Monday  on  the 
arrival  of  the  IliiliCax  express,  and  calls  at  (Jeorgetown  and  Souris. 
Th(^  fare  from  (i(!()rget')wn  is  !j^4.  The  Magdalen  Islands  are  a  group 
of  thirte(^n,  most  of  them  connected  by  sand-sjjits  bare  at  low  tide. 
They  lie  in  the  (Jiulf  of  Si,  Lawrence,  between  Prince  Edward  Island 
and  the  west  coast  of  Newfoundland,  about  50  miles  from  East  Point, 
already  mentioned.  The  chief  island  is  called  Amhcmt,  and  this 
island,  with  Alright,  (Jrindatone,  and  Entry  Islands,  partially  incloses  a 
roadstead  in  which  the  fleets  of  the  gulf,  caught  in  this  neighborhood 
in  a  gale,  take  refuge.  The  if^hinds,  however,  have  no  harbors  pro[)er 
that  are  safely  accessible  in  a  storm,  and  they  are  a  good  place  to  keep 
away  from  in  bad  weather.  Their  shores  arc  lined  with  wrecks.  In 
the  dreadful  " Lord's  Day  Gale,"  celeb'ated  in  Stednuin's  noble  ballad, 
the  loss  of  life  about  the  Magdalens  was  appalling.  Out  to  sea,  off  the 
west  of  Amherst,  lies  the  dread  rock  of  Deadman's  Isle,  mentioned 
in  Tom  Moore's  lines : 

"  To  Deadman's  Isle  in  the  eye  of  the  blast, 
To  Deadman's  Isle  she  speeds  her  fast ; 
Hy  skeleton  shapes  her  sails  are  furled, 
And  the  hand  that  steers  is  not  of  this  world." 

Off  to  the  north  lie  the  most  outlying  members  of  the  group,  Bryon 
Island,  rivaling  Perce  Rock  as  a  nesting-place  for  sea-birds,  and  the 
two  desolate  Bird  Rocks.  On  one  of  these,  which  carries  a  powerful 
light,  placed  there  with  great  expense  and  peril  by  the  Canadian  Gov- 
ernment, a  landing  is  effected  only  by  means  of  a  great  swinging  crane 
projecting  from  the  cliff,  on  which  visitors  are  hoisted  in  a  cradle.  One 
of  the  most  important  and  central  islands  of  the  group  is  called  Coffin 


200 


FKoT^r  oiiARr.orrF/rovvN  maniwak]). 


IhIiuuI— not  fiom  its  Hlm|M'  or  any  HinintiT  asMooiatlon,  l)iit  in  lioiior  of 
Adnil.al  Sir  iHaac  CoHin,  to  whom,  in  I7»«,  tho  islands  w<mo  granted 
in  fo(«  siniplo,  and  wimse  ln'ir,  Vilniiral  (JolHn,  now  »i;)lds  tljoni.  Tho 
population  of  (lie  island^  -.  i.„sv  a  liftlc  ovi-r  .S,0()(.,  mostly  Anidian 
Frt'iifh,  and  all  arc  t^^,ull^.  ..1"  Aianiral  Collin,  who  cxucts  the  heavy 
roni  of  one  shilling  p.M'  acre,  payahic  at  the  convenience  of  tlie  occupant. 
The  islands  lie  within  the  province  of  Quebec.  A  perfect  view  of  thoni 
may  he  had  from  tlie  summit  of  Entry  Island,  f)H(>  ft.  above  the  sea. 

The  Mai'dalens  are  visited  by  few  tourist-,  md  those  few  have  to 
put  up  with  .somewhat  primitive  tliou^h  always  hospitable  entertain- 
ment.  Among  tlie  islands  one  may  enjoy  the  finest  of  sea-trout  fish- 
ing; and  in  the  small  lirooUs,  which  constitute  tlio  islanders'  river.s,  (me 
n>ay  catch  nuignilicent  trout,  that  look  strangely  out  of  proportion  to 
the  waters  thoy  fn-cpient.  During  the  cod  and  mackerel  seasons  the 
island  waters  are  throng(>d  with  American  and  Canadian  fishing-fleets, 
and  patrolled  l»y  tht>  Domiiucm  cutter  La  Canadienne  to  prevent  foreign 
boats  from  fishing  within  the  three-mile  limits.  In  winter  the  occupa- 
tion of  the  inhabitants  is  seal-fishing,  a  perilous  business,  in  which 
som(>  lives  are  lost  every  season.  The  seals  arc  swept  upon  the  shoies 
on  fields  of  ice  drifting  down  from  tho  N. ;  and  sometimes  the  ice- 
fields drift  away  again,  when  tlit>  wind  changes,  carrying  with  them 
some  of  the  too-venturous  hunters. 

The  Magdalens  have,  pei-haps,  tho  best  lobster-grounds  on  the  con- 
tinent, and  the  canning  establishments  there  do  an  innnen.se  business. 
The  chief  villag,'  is  on  Jm/iirttf  Island,  fronting  on  IMeasimt  Ihiy,  and 
contains  the  unimposing  public  buildings.  Overlooking  the  settlement 
is  a  conical  height  called  "  La  Demoiselle,"  from  whose  peak  (me  sees 
a  broad  and  varied  panorama.  The  prondnent  landmarks  of  the  group, 
besides  this  hill  and  tlie  islands  already  described,  arc  the  striking  enn- 
ntnwos  of  Cap  (/(.]/(nil<\  /^'  17,»x,  and  /a  I'icilic.  The  sand-bi>aclics 
0(mnecting  the  islands  are  at  times  very  dangerous  from  shifting  (piick- 
sands.  In  places  the  sand  is  covered  with  water  to  a  depth  of  several 
feet,  and  the  fordable  spots  are  marked  out  bv  scant  rows  of  saplin-'S 
stuck  insecurely  into  the  bottom.  The  communication  between  the 
islands  by  these  beaches  is  perilovis  and  often  impossible  when  the 
wind  is  strong.  The  group  is  connected  with  the  outer  world  by  a  sub- 
marine cable  running  to  Trince  Edward  Island  ;  but  this  institution 
does  not  s(>em  to  meet  with  much  patronage,  and  Mr.  S.  G.  W.  Henja- 
ndn,  in  an  entertaining  paper  on  the  Magdnlens,  in  the  Century  Maga- 


r 


NOVA  sc<mA. 


201 


*  «' 


'I 


zinc  for  Mn.v,  l«8^,  UAU  that  at  tli.'  time  of  his  visit  tho  operator  wuh 
uway  t>nj(.yinfr  an  cxtciKlcd  vanitioii  on  tlic  mainland  whih'  tlu>  nililc 
rested  unused.  (Mr.  nc-njan.iu's  Ixx.k,  "  The  ("niise  of  the  Aliee  May," 
whieii  deseiibcs  u  voyage  around  the  eoast  of  tiie  Maritime  Provinces 
nn<l  tho  outlyiuf,'  i.slands,  is  publJHli.-d  hy  I).  Appk'ton  k  c,,.)  ()„  ^]^^^ 
Mi.^'dalens  is  situated  a  large  nunnery,  wiiose  occupants  (hHd)tless  find 
there  the  ideal  of  cloistral  seclusion. 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 

The  pi  ivincc  of  Nova  Scotia  consists  of  the  storied  peninsula  of 
OU  Amdif  and  the  hhitid  of  Cnpr  Jirdou.     It  is  the  most  easterly 
province  of  tho  Dondnion,  and  is  connected  witli  New  IJriuiswiek  by 
the  Isf/imm  <>/  (Imjnvcio,  alieady  described.     Its  length  is  «()()  iniles, 
its  extreme  breadth  lot),  and  its  coast-line  is  deeply  indented  by  bays 
and  roomy  harbors.     Its  rivers,  of  which  the  more  important  are  the 
Liver  pool,   La  Have,  Shuhniacudir,  Avo7>,  and  Anitapo/in,  are  not  of 
great  length,  but  are  important  on  account  of  their  large  estuaries. 
The  sjnfttce  of  the  province  is  diversified  by  long,  parallel  ranges  of 
hills  and  valleys  running  E.  and  W.     No  other  part  of  Canada  can 
surpass  this  province  in  the  variety  and  abundance  of  its  natural  re- 
sources.    In  regard  to  soil  and  climate  its  agricultural  districts  are  not 
excelled  by  the  most  favored  i)ortions  of  Ontario.     It  has  innnense 
lumbering,  fishing,  and  ship-building  interests.     Its  coal,  gold,  iron, 
and  plaster  minea  are  famous  the  world  over.     Other  ndncral  products 
of  Nova  Scotia  are  silver,  tin,  zinc,  copp(>r,   manganese,  plumbago, 
granite,   marble,  limestone,  grindstones;  anu   the  province  also  pro- 
duces good  specimens  of   garnet,  amethyst,   opaz,  opal,  cairngorm, 
agate,  heliotrope,  jasper,  and  chalcedony.     Tlie  forests  are  still  fairly 
stocked  with  large  and  small  game;  and  the  province  contains  many 
excellent  <  out  and  salmon  waters,  though  in  this  respect  it  hardlv 
competes     ith  New  Hrunswick.    The  population  of  Nova  Scotia  in  1891 
was  450,996. 

In  historic  associations  Nova  Scotia  is  not  less  richly  furnisli<'d 
than  Quebec.  It  wa.-»  visited  by  tlie  Norsemen  in  the  eleventh  century, 
and  rediscovered  by  Sebastian  Cabot  in  1498.  Attempts  were  made 
tocolmiize  the  country  I »y  France  in  1518;  and  by  Portugal  between 
1520  and   1530,  when  a  royal  commission  was  given  to -Joan  Alvarez 


202 


NOVA    HdOTIA. 


I''  I 


F«KU«.l..z,  Hn,|   t«u  .ships  snih.l  r„  ('up..  Mivton  with  (■..l„nist.s      Tlie 
eurlu-Ht  nppn.xi.i.ah.ly  n.rnrt  map  „f  N„va  Sootia  is  that  ..f  u  I'ortu. 

ftr>N.     Th»«  rditiigiiorto  wore 


gUi'Hf,  |)i(.j,'„  ll<.iiiiiii,  and  lu-ais  date  <>f  j 


not  vi'iy  Hiu'i-fHsfuI  ill  thulr 


('oh)ii 


roUiiii/.iiij;  t'fl'oiiM,  hut  thi'V  did 


i/.in-  with  nittlo  and   swin,.   the   .hvadlnl   Hai.d"-ha.,k 


Ishiiid,  t»ir  tiic  S.  I 


coast  of  Nova  Scdf 


Miiccccd  III 
of   Sable 


yours  iiiaii.v  a  shipwivi-kctl   h( 


ill— -a  dt'cd  for  which  in  hitt 


an 


with  f,'iatitndc.     In  suci 


mil  has  had  cansc  to  icinoinhor  th 


1  names  as   Mlomidon,   Mi 


icni 

<"'•'"   ''" ••^'   "'"•  ""'"'^   •>"•   l"<"t"gu,.sc  have  left  on  these  coasts 

the  nu.moiy  of  their  explorations.     The  name  of  Acadio  itself  is  a 
J  .cnn.c  word,  n.eaninj,-  "a  region  of  plenty  "_a„.|  is  the  same  as  the 
Mehc...  word  "  (iu.Mldy."     Shnhenacadie  means  "a  place  of  plenty  of 
gnmnd-nnts,"  jnst  as  I'assama.inoddy  means  a  phice  of  plenty  of  hid- 
«l<H-k.     The  indi.ence  of  the   French  soon  became  .lonnnant  i„  thes,. 
.VKions   ami  they  ad,.pte.l  the. Micn.ac  na.ne,  which  was  an^lieize,!  by 
t  .c  Knj,!,.h  clainnmts  into  Acadia.     The  first  snceessfnl  settlement  in 
An.d.e  «as  that   planted  in  l.l..r.  „t    IN.rt  Royal,  by  Champlain,  after 
h.s  winter  „f  horn.rs  at  the  St.  ('roix  month,     rnicp.o  an.l  interesting 
though  a  most  disastrous  faih.re,  was  the  coi.mizimr  enterprise  of  Mar 
q.us  de  la  IJoehe  in    l.M.S.     Of  this  atten.pt  the   theatre  was  Sable 
Isla.H  ,  which,  as  it  is  more  interesting  to  read  about  than  to  visit  nuiy 
be  releiml  to  here.     As  its  luim..  i.nplies,  this  island  is  a  bank  of 
sand,  a  deposit  of  the  drift  of  meeting  currents.     It  lies  yo  miles  S  E 
of  Noya  Seotia,  and  is  the  center  of  fogs  and   tiercest  storn.s      Its 
s  lape  is  roughly  that  of  a  crescent,  ->  miles  long  by  2  wide,  and  a 
shallow  po.,1  diyides  it  from  eiul  to  end.     Its  posith.n  'is  shifting  grad- 
"ally  eastward,  an.l  the  dreadful  wrecks  of  which  it  is  from  tinu.  to 
t.me  the  scene  lune  won  it  the  nam,,  of  the  "  Charnel-hou.se  of  North 
An.orica/'     De  la  IJoehe.  being  made  Viceroy  of  Canada  and  Aeadie, 
set  sail  for  his  new  d..minions  with  a  ship-load  of  conyicts  for  colonists 
Ai.proaclung  the  Acadian  coasts  ho  conceiyed.  in  his  prudenee    tl.J 
design  ol  landing  his  dangerous  charge  upon  the  Isle  of  Sable,  till  he 
might  go  and  pivpare  for  them,  on  the  mainland,  a  place  of  safety. 
The  4.  conyicts,  selected  from  the  chief  prisons  of  France,  were  landJd 
through  the  uproar  of  the  surf,  and  the  ship  made  haste  away  from  the 
IH'nlous  shore.     Hut  she  came  not  back  again  !     De  la  Roche  reached 
Acadie,  chose  a    ite  for  his  settlement,  and  set  out  for  the  island  to 
fetch  lus  expectant  colonists,     lint  a  great  gale  swept  him  back  to 
1- ranee  and  droye  him  upon  the  Hreton  coast,  where  the  Duke  de  Mer 


4 


I 


s 


o 


NOVA   SCOTIA. 


203 


coeur,  at  that  time  warring  against  the  king,  seized  him,  cast  him  into 
prison,  and  held  him  close  for  five  years.     Meanwhile  those  left  on  the 
island  were  delighted  enough.     They  were  free,  and  began  to  forget 
the  scourge  and  chain.     Besid<i.  the  unstable  hummocks  and  hills  of 
sand  they  found  a  shallow  lake  of  sweet  waters,  the  shores  of  which 
were  clothed  luxuriantly  with  long  grass,  and  fcntils,  and  vines  of 
vetch      Lurking  in  any  or  every  portion  of  the  grass-plain  ;vere  little 
cup-like  hollows,  generally  filled  with  clear  water.     Every  su^h  pool 
like  the  lake,  was  alive  wHh  ducks  and  other  water-fowl,  among  which 
the  joyous  ex-convicts  created  consternation.     There  were  wild  ca^le 
also,  trooping  and  lowing  among  the  sand-hills  or  feeding  bellv-deep  in 
the  rank  water-grasses;  while  herds  of  wild  hogs,  introduced  years  be- 
fore by  the  Portuguese,  disputed  the  shallow  pools  with  the  mallard 
and  teal.     The  weather  for  a  while  kept  fine,  and  the  wind,  comparn- 
tively  temperate,  and  the  sojourners  held  a  carnival  of  liberty  and  in 
dolenee.     But  this  was  not  for  long,  and  as  the  skie.  grew  harsher 
theu-  plight  grew  harder.     As  the  weeks  slipped  into  months  thov  gmw 
first  impatient,  then  solicitous,  then  despairing.     Their  provisions  fell 
low,  and  at  last  the  truth  was  staring  them  in  the  face-they  were  de 
serted.     From  the  wrecks  -pon  the  shore  they  built  themselves  at  first 
a  rude  shelter,  which  the  increasing  cold  and  .storms  soon  drove  them 
to  perfect  with  their  most  cunning  skill.     As  their  stores  diminished 
they  looked  on  greedily  and  glared  at  each  other  with  jealous  eyes' 
boon  quarrel.,  broke  out  with  but  little  provocation,  and  were  settled 
by  the  knife  with  such  fatal  frequency  that  the  members  of  the  colonv 
shrank  apace.     As  they  had  been  provided  with  no  means  of  lio-htin"- 
fires,  they  soon  had  to  live  on  the  raw  flesh  of  the  wild  cattle,  and  little 
by  ittle  they  learned  the  lesson,  and  began  to  relish  such  fare.     Little 
by  little  too,  as  their  garments  fell  to  pieces,  they  replaced  them  with 
skins  of  the  seals  that  swarmed  about  the  beach;  and  their  hut  they 
lined  with  hides  from  the  cattle  they  had  slaughtered.     As  the  months 
became  years  their  deadly  contests  cea.sed,  but  exposure,  and  fro.«t  and 
hunger,  and  disease  kept  thinning  their  ranks.     They  occupied  them- 
selves  in  pursuing  the  seal  for  its  skin,  the  walru.  for  its  ivory.     Thev' 
had  gathered  a  great  .store  of  sealskins,  ivory,  and  hides,  but  now  only 
twelve  men  remained  to  possess  these  riches.     Their  beards  had  cnown 
to  their  waists,  their  skins  were  like  the  furs  that  covered  them'their 
nails  were  like  birds'  claws,  their  eyes  gleamed  with  a  sort  of  si  y 
ferocity  through  the  long,  matted  tangle  of  their  hair.     At  last,  from 


"1 


204 


NuVA   SCOTIA. 


7  e,.ea.od  U,e  o,*.  „r  ••  K.:,Us  tC     of  N  v'aC".'::;:": 

In  16<t2  Nova  Scotia  was  relinquished  to  France  ami  fn'i  , 
he  str,,«g,e,  ,c.„en  t„  Tonr  and  Charnisay,  airrdr^ef    red  7  ! 

stronghold  i„  7  3  d  ;„T:  :  """1'*'"  °^™"  '"^  '*-*«° 
Hiof  and  h,  the  Tre  ^  'r;:  ?LTm  i"  ""'  "''"  "'  ""'  '" 
coded  .0  England.  These  str,,.!  es  and  intlrl  """"■■'■  ""  """" 
accompaniment  of  innnmerable  r!L,n,         ?r°"'  "'"'  ""  "'"'  ""^ 

make  the  annals  of  NoTZttaaLrec^n  ""  ""'""'°''  ""•'■»• 
In  m.  was  fonnded  t„:  ^rf  IX  ""j,:;:-;';::!, f.'"  "'  »'"r '• 
between  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht  ind  tl„.  i       '^/""''  ""'"cning 

The  tragedy  of  1755  will  be  referred  to  mom  fnii 
with  the  description  of  Grand  Pre      In  HsHL       '  ^^  •""'''"" 
province  was  increased  by  the  in.  igr  Uon  00';^  7/  *'^ 

Loyalists;  and  in  the  following  year  two  1  '^  ^'"P""^ 

out  Of  portions  of  Xo.a  Sco:^  Cir  _" ITZ:  Te:  7"^ 
wick,  p^-^anently,  and  the  other  Cape  I  reton  as  i    n  n   ^   k 
porarily.     During  the  War  of   18^>  V        c  ^       '''^'  ^"*  **^"'- 

depredations  of  .t^erioan     It  "^  is^?;!"''^'"^'  ''^'^  ''' 

withQueboc,  Ontario,  and  Xew  Brunswi.l?  t     f     *he  provn.ce  joined 
known  as  the  Dounnion  of  Canada  "  ''"  confederation 

To  Pictou  and  Antigonish 

saii'nrs'rr  rfr  rs  z  "t  -  ^--t'^  ^'"•^■'■*'> 
-- sai,i„,n;.\f,:rrt;::ir:5:-rc:or 


TO   PICTOU   AND   ANTIOONISII. 


205 


this  noble  water,  whose  high  and  varied  shores,  well  populated  in  al- 
most every  direction,  give  it  the  charm  of  pieturesqueness,  and  whose 
safe  and  commodious  anchorage  constitutes  it  the  best  haven  on  the 
north   coast   of  Nova  Scotia.     The   town   of  Pictou   is   handsomely 
situated  on  a  hill-side  overlooking  the  harbor.     Its  site  was  of  old 
occupied  by  a  town  of  the  Micmacs,  who  called  the  place  "Pik-took," 
from  the  gases  escaping  from  the  coal-beds  underlying  the   harbor 
The  neighborhood  is  rich  in  legends  of  GUiskap,  the  MIcmac  demigod, 
who  halted  here  on  his  journey  to  Newfoundland  to  punish  the  wizards 
of  that  island  who  had  slain  his  servants.     Here,  too,  took  place  some 
sanguinary  battles  between  the  Micmacs  and  the  Mohawks,  and  to  this 
day  the  name  of  the  latter  is  a  terror  to  the  Indians  of  Pictou.     The 
first  settleiPdnt  at  this  point  was  begun  in  1767  by  a  small  party  of 
Philadelphians.     It  is  said  that  Franklin  was  interested  in  the  enter- 
prise ;  which,  however,  made  but  sorry  progress  till  the  arrival  of  a 
body  of  Scotch  Highlanders  in  1773.     The  ultimate  success  of  there 
immigrants  attracted  many  more  of  the  same  race ;  and  these  colonists, 
being  intensely  loyal,  gradually  crowded  out  the  first  settlers,  whose' 
sympathies  were  with  the  Thirteen  Colonies  during  the  American  War 
of  Independence.     The  town  was  founded  in  1788;  and  between  1805 
and  1820,  when  the  Baltic  ports  were  closed  against  Great  Britain, 
Pictou  made  great  progress  as  a  lumbering  and  ship-building  port.' 
Thereafter   the  development  of  the  coal  industry,  of   which  Pictou 
County  is  one  of  the  chief  centers  on  the  continent,  continued  the  era 
of  prosperity.     At  present,  though  Pictou  has  considerable  wealth,  and 
some  mills  and  factories  to  depend  upon  besides  her  shipping  interests, 
the  town  is  not  making  much  progress,  and  stands  at  a  population  of 
between  3,000  and  4,000,  much  of  her  business  being  appropriated  by 
her  bustling  young  rival.  New  Glasgow.     Pictou  has  some  fine  public 
buildings,  piominent  among  which  is  that  of  the  Pictou  Academy,  con- 
taining a  fine  library  and  museum.     This  institution  has  played  a'most 
important  part  in  the  education  of  the  province,  and  counts  among  its 
graduates  some  of  the  most  distinguished  of  (Canadians— among  them 
President  Sir  William  Dawson,  of  McGill  Universitv,  and   Principal 
Grant,  of  Queen's  University.    The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association 
Building  attracts  attention,  and  the  spiritual  needs  of  the  towns-folk 
are  supplied  by  a  round  half-dozen  churches.     Around  the  shore  of  the 
harbor,  opposite  Pictou,  are  the  huge,  black  wharves  of  the  various 
coal-mining  companies.     About  the  same  point  the  harbor  branches 


200 


TO    T»I(TOU    ANT)    ANTIGONISH. 


into  threo  arn.H.  the  estuaries  of  Ku.t,  West,  ami  Mid.lle  Kivern      Tl.o 

...«  . .  .1  seu.  ,ath„-.c,  Iawu-tr„nis,  so.ne  pleasant  society,  and  one  eom- 
fortable  hotel,  the  Narrr  Home. 

tVom  rietou  the  raihyay  n.ns  a.oun.l  the  north  of  the  harbor  14 
n  los  to  Sm^ron  where  U  connects  with  the  Eastern  Extension  ,>f  the 
n tercnh>n.a    K.  M.     Steilarton  is  a  thrivin,  bu.  „in,v  town  <.f  ab 

)  .n  abUants,  and  ha.  ,rown  up  about  the  fan.ous^^l //.-.„  Coal «.  J 
l>on  Jw  ...  ^o  one  stops  at  Str'darton  if  he  can  help  it;  for  2  miles 
oas  ward  by  rad  ,s  the  energetic  and  growing  town  of  ^^.^  oi„l^ 
v.th  a  population  of  between  4,000  and  5,000,  and  three  fairly  c.^nl 

Ncu    .lasgov  ,s  a  great  sh.p-building  and  eoal-nuning  center,  and  is 
-PHl  y<hne,opi„,  a   large  n,anufaeturing  interest,     n  has  ta  .  e 
and   loundnes  and  has  lately  started,  under  n.osMavor.ble  aus,,^^ 
extensive  steel  and  glass  works.     (io<,d  public  buildings  are  rapi  lly' 
g<nng  u,v.nd  everything  points  to  a  most  prosperous  future  for  Ihe 
t«  «n.     A  coal  radway  runs  down  the  south  of  the  harbor  to  the  coal 
wharves  and  ferry  opposite  Pietou.     At  the  lower  end  of  the  towTa 
<la-bruige  crosses  the  East  River,  here  a  narrow  strean,  which  the 
-t-zens  Of  New  Glasgow  propose  to  n.ake  the  Clyde  of  (^u.ada.     Cp 
•ts  nortuern  slu>ro  runs  for  a  short  distance,  to  the  Albion  Mines   a 
<,ua.nt  raihvay,  the  oldest  in  America.     The  massive  old  rust..at;n 
.a.  s  are  of  a  very  curious  pattern;  but  such  is  the  excellence  of  their 
construction  that  thov  still  do  their  work 

^tr^y  r!r"  ?'"f'"  "'  ''''^  '•  ^  •  '^•'  •■""'""S  ^«  ^^"'"'-«  on  the 
Miait  of  anso,has  been  still  farther  extended  to  run  through  Cape 
Breton.  Between  New  Glasgow,  which  we  leave  at  about  11  o'elocl 
and  4./.^.«,s/,„  a  distance  of  42  miles,  we  get  some  occasioned  bit^ 
o  good  scenery;  but  the  nine  intervening  stations  are  of  little  inter- 
est.    A  prosperous  ship-b.nlding  village  is  Merigomish,  14  miles  from 

Anotlei  of  these  stations  ,s  son.ewhat  interesting,  on  account  of  its 
quaint  name  of  Marshy  Hope.  As  we  near  Antigonish,  descendi  ' 
^-ou,H  the  passes  of  the  surrounding  hills,  the  scene  changTs! 
Ant.gon.sh  ,s  „  beautiful,  clean,  little  pastoral  town,  se.  in  a  broad 
g-en  amphitheatre,  whose  meadow  floor  is  watered  by  a  pleasant 
nver.  ts  beauty  of  surroundings  is  of  the  restful,  q.det  kind  but 
undeniably  worthy  of  p.-aise.      There  are  p..etty  ddves  among  Z 


I 


I 


TO   PICTOU   AND   ANTIGONISH. 


207 


hills,  the  summer  climate  is  not  to  be  8urpix:;sed,  and  though  there 
are  no  very  exciting  diversions,  the  town  must  be  set  down  as  a  really 
delightful  retreat  for  the  summer  traveler  who  desires  nothing  but 
unrestricted  lotus-eating.  The  village  inns  are  comfortable,  home-like 
country  boarding-houses,  rather  than  hotels;  and  there  is  pleasant 
society  to  be  met  in  this  remote  corner  of  the  province, 

Antigouish  is  the  >,liire  town  of  Antlgonish  County.     It  stands  at 
the  head  of  a  wide,  shallow  harbor  opening  into  St.  George's  Bay.     It 
has.a  population  of  a  little  less  than  2,0(i(>,  and  carries  on  an  extensive 
trade  in  agricultural  produce  with  Newfoundland.     It  also  ships  quan- 
titles  of  gypsum.     The  country  is  settled  by  a  thrifty  farming  popula- 
tion of  Celtic  liigidandcrs.     Antlgonish  is  the  seat  of  a  Roman  Catholic 
bishopric,  of  the  fine  new  Catkalral  of  St.  Ninian  (a  striking  structure 
of  blue  limestone  dressed  with  brick,  consecrated  in  18V4,  and  carrying 
on  the  fa9ade  tlie  inscription  "  Tiglie  Dlie,"  which  is  Gaelic  for  "  The 
House  of  God  ").    The  sermons  in  the  cathedral  are  frequently  preached 
in  Gaelic.    Near  the  cathedi-al  is  the  imposing  pile  of  St.  Franck  A'avicr 
CoUcgc,  a  prosperous  Itoman  Catholic  institution  imder  the  presidency 
of  Dr.  McNeill.     Close  by  is  the  building  occupied  by  the  (Jirls'  School, 
which  H  managed  by  nuns  of  a  Montreal  Sisterhood.     Quiet  as  the  vil- 
lage is,  it  practically  monopolizes  the  whole  supply  trade  of  the  country, 
and  hence  supports  some  large  shops  which  would  do  credit  to  [)laces 
with  thrice  the  population.     In  the  country  about  Antigonish,  accessible 
by  stage  or  carriage,  the  most  interesting  i)oints  to  visit  are  the  Anti- 
gonish Mountains,  thrusting  their  lofty  line  15  miles  out  into  the  gulf; 
Cape  St.  George ;  and  the  romantic  village  of  Celtic  Highlanders  known 
as  Ai-isaig,  behind  whose  long  wooden  pier  vessels  seek  shelter  in  some 
winds,  there  being  no  harbor  on  this  coast  between  Antigonish  and 
Merigomish. 

Leaving  Antigonish  we  pass  the  stations  of  South  River,  Taylor's 
Road,  Pomciuet,  and  come  to  the  prosperous  settlement  of  Heatherton, 
whence  a  stage  line  runs  20  miles  to  Guysboio.  The  third  station  be- 
yond Heatherton  is  yet  another  Tracadh^  a  very  interesting  Acadian 
settlement  20  miles  from  Antigonish.  Here  is  situated  a  monastery  of 
Trappist  monki>.  ar «.  iiiso  a  convent  occupied  by  Sisters  of  Charity.  The 
third  station  bf  j-o»\ .  Traeadie  is  Harbor  au  Bouche,  another  Acadian 
settlement,  and  10  miles  beyond,  80  miles  from  New  Glasgow,  the 
train  stops  at  Mulgrave  on  the  Strait  of  Canso.  On  the  other  side  lies 
the  wild  and  lovely  land  of  Cape  Breton. 


208 


TO   PICTOU    AND   ANTIG0NI8H. 


Cape  Breton. 

The  island  of  Cape  Breton  forms  a  portion  of  the  province  of 
Nova  Scotia.  Its  extreme  length  is  about  100  miles,  its  width  85  miles, 
and  its  population  between  80,000  and  90,000,  It  is  marvelous  for  the 
diversity  of  its  scenery,  being  a  very  chaos  of  u'ountuins,  lakes,  streams, 
and  deep  bays,  and  a  sportsman'n  paradise.  The  island  is  all  but  split 
in  two  from  end  to  end  by  the  strange  lake-like  inlet  of  the  Brus 
(POr  ;  and  the  division  is  completed  by  a  ship-canal  half  a  mile  long 
connecting  the  inner  extremity  of  the  Bras  d'Or  with  St.  Peter's  Day 
on  the  W.  coast.  The  two  divisions  of  the  island  thus  formed  are  ex- 
tremely dissimilar,  the  southern  portion  being  low  and  much  broken  by 
the  sea,  and  the  northern  portion  vory  mountainous  and  bold.  The 
valleys  and  plains  tue  fertile,  the  coast  waters  rich  in  fish,  the  forests 
support  a  large  ship-building  industry,  and,  most  important  of  all,  the 
coal-mines  are  among  tlic  very  best  in  the  world.  Besides  its  vast 
coal  deposits.  Cape  Breton  pio. luces  marble,  granite,  limestone,  slate, 
gypsum,  iron,  and  salt,  [ts  position  makes  it  the  key  to  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence,  a  consideration  which  led  France  to  cling  tenaciously  to  its 
possession  when  yielding  up  the  Acadian  Peninsula.  Its  delicious  and 
invigorating  summer  climate,  added  to  its  other  attractions,  make  it  one 
of  the  pleasantest  placer,  in  Canada  for  summer  wanderings. 

The  island  takes  its  name  from  a  cape  on  its  east  coast,  which  was 
called  in  honor  of  its  Breton  discoverers.  It  was  renamed  Isle  Iioyale 
by  the  French  in  1713,  and  on  the  cession  of  Nova  Scotia  to  England 
its  population  was  swelled  by  the  influx  of  Acadians  who  refused  to 
live  under  English  rule.  In  1714  was  built  the  strong  fortress  of  Lou- 
isbo\arg ;  and  for  the  next  lifty  years  the  story  of  the  island  is  one  of 
perpetual  hostilities  between  the  Eniilish  on  one  hand  and  the  French 
with  their  Indian  allies  on  the  other,  culminating  in  the  second  and 
final  capture  of  Louisbourg  and  the  utter  destruction  of  the  fortress  in 
July,  1758.  In  1765  Cape  Breton  was  annexed  to  Nova  Scotia.  It 
was  made  a  separate  province  in  1784,  but  was  reannexed  in  1820, 
Its  population  is  hnost  entirely  Celtic,  being  made  up  of  Scotch  High- 
landers and  Acadian  French. 

Cape  Breton  may  be  visited  by  boat  up  the  Bras  d'Or  Lakes,  by 
the  new  railway,  or  by  boat  from  Halifax,  Mulgrave,  already  re- 
ferred to,  is  a  fishing  village  of  about  500  inhabitants,  in  the  moun- 
tainous, gold-producing  county  of  Guysboro.     It  has  a  harbor  open 


I 


»«' 


TO   PICTOU   AND   ANTIQONISII. 


209 


the  year  round,  and  is  connected  with  Port  Hawkesbury  by  a  steam- 
ferry.  The  latter  is  a  growing  viMage  of  perliaps  1,100  inhabitants, 
and  good  prospects  for  more.  The  steamships  plying  between  Boston 
and  Chnrlottetoivii  call  at  Port  Ilawkesbin-y. 


Through  the  Bras  d'Or  Waters  to  Sydney. 

From  the  noble  passage  called  the  gut  or  Strait  of  Canso  we  may 
go  by  boat  or  stage  through  Cape  IJrcton.  The  new  railway  from 
Point  Tupper,  opposite  Mulgrave,  to  Si/dnci/ and  Louisbourg  has  just 
been  opened.  It  has  a  length  of  90  miles,  through  much  noble  scenery, 
and  over  one  trestle,  that  crossing  McDonald's  (Julch,  which  has  the 
distinction  of  being  the  S(  cond  longest  in  t'anada.  But  the  traveler, 
if  traveling  for  pleasure,  will  probably  prefer  the  absolutely  unique 
sea-voyage  through  the  windless  waters  of  the  Bras  d'Or. 

The  daily  steamers  from  Port  Mulgrave  touch  at  Grandigue,  where 
passengers  for  Arichat  disembark;  also  at  St.  Peter's,  Grand Narroms, 
and  Baddeck.  The  fare  to  Baddeck  is  |2 ;  return,  |3.50.  The  fare 
to  Sydney  is  $3  ;  return,  $5.  From  Mulgrave  the  course  is  eastward 
through  the  Strait  to  Isle  Madame,  an  island  some  16  miles  long  by 
5  miles  in  width,  peopled  by  Acadians.  The  steamer  traverses  the 
picturesque  strait  called  Lennox  Passage,  which  separates  Isle  Madame 
from  the  main  island.  Arichat,  the  chief  village  on  Isle  Madame,  lies 
on  the  seaward  side,  and  is  an  important  fishing  station,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  between  1,100  and  1,200.  The  town  is  the  county-seat  of 
Richmond  County,  and  does  a  large  business  for  a  place  of  its  size. 
It  is  also  to  some  extent  an  educationivl  center,  having  successful 
academies  for  boys  and  girls.  There  are  other  busy  little  villages  on 
Isle  Madame. 

Leaving  Lennox  Passage  .ve  run  Up  St.  Peter's  Bay,  whose  head  is 
separated  from  St.  Peter's  Inlet,  on  the  Bras  d'  Or  waters,  by  a  narrow 
isthmus  with  the  once  appropriate  name  of  "  The  Haulover:'  Through 
this  isthmus  has  lately  been  cut  a  canal  of  about  half  a  mile  in  length, 
which  has  made  the  Bras  d'Or  route  by  far  the  most  desirable  for 
Cape  Breton  travelers.  The  village  of  St.  Peter's,  with  its  population 
of  about  1,100,  mostly  Scotch,  was  founded  as  long  ago  as  1630  by 
the  illustrious  Frenchman  M.  Denys,  Throughout  all  its  early  history 
it  was  a  place  of  importance,  and  well  fortified.  Through  the  eighteenth 
century  it  went  by  the  name  of  Port  Toulouse,  and  was  a  center  of  the 
14 


I  iiiiiiiWi«MIWHlMM 


210      TIIROUOTI  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEY. 

fur-trade.  Off  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  Inlet  is  a  group  of  islands  oc 
cupied  by  the  Micmac  Indians.  On  the  lar<j;e8t  of  these  islands  is  held 
a  grand  Indian  festival  every  St.  Anne's  Day,  at  which  many  curious 
ceremonies  are  observed.     The  celebrations  are  well  worth  a  visit. 

Leaving  St.  Peter's  Inlet  we  arc  on  the  Great  Bras  d'Or  Lake, 
which  Mr.  Warner  calls  "the  most  beautiful  salt-water  lake  I  have 
ever  seen,  and  more  beautiful  than  we  had  imagined  a  salt-water  lake 
could  be."  Its  shores  are  bold  enough  to  be  striking,  rounded  enough 
to  be  winsvmie,  and  diversified  by  every  form  of  headland,  estuary, 
glade,  and  forest.  The  woods  are  of  an  infinite  variety,  making  a  de- 
licious harmony  of  colors.  The  coast-line  is  of  marvelous  extent,  so 
many  and  so  deep  are  the  branches  of  the  lake,  diverging  in  every 
direction  between  the  ranges  of  the  hills.  Among  the  chief  of  these 
estuaries  and  inlets  are  River  J)cm/.s,  East  Bay  or  Si.  Andrew's  Chan- 
nel,  and  West  Bay  or  St.  George's  Channel.  Near  the  head  of  East 
Bay  is  the  picturesque  Indian  village  of  Escasoni,  and  everywhere  lie 
snugly  nestling  hamlets  of  Scotch  Highlanders. 

From  the  Great  Bras  iVOr  the  steamer  enters  a  beautiful  channel, 
2  miles  long  by  about  a  mile  in  width,  called  the  Strait  of  Barra  or  the 
Grand  Narrows,  and  calls  at  a  settlement  of  the  latter  name.  The  dis- 
trict is  peopled  by  immigrants  from  Barra  in  the  Hebrides.  Passing 
through  the  strait  we  enter  the  Little  Bras  d'  Or  TMke,  whose  charm  of 
landscape  and  climate  compels  the  acknowledgment  of  the  most  dis- 
contented of  globe-trotters.  Around  the  lake  crowd  innumerable  shel- 
tering hills,  most  of  them  named  with  a  fine  freshness  and  disregard 
of  the  exigencies  of  pronimciation.  To  the  westward  of  the  lake,  for 
instance,  lie  the  heights  of  Watchahala-hkt !  The  next  stoppage  is  at 
the  village  on  which  Mr.  Warner  has  conferred  a  certain  kind  of  im- 
mortality. Every  traveler  who  goes  to  Cape  Breton,  it  is  to  be  pre- 
sumed, carries  a  copy  of  "  Baddeck,  and  that  Sort  of  Thing,"  which, 
if  not  always  quite  just  in  the  impressions  it  conveys,  is  always  good 

company. 

Baddeck. 

Baddeck  is  growing  year  by  year  more  popular,  more  sophis- 
ticated, more  expensive,  and  better  equipped  in  the  matter  of  hotel 
and  boarding  house  accommodations.  It  lies  40  miles  from  Syd- 
ney, and  has  a  population,  including  the  farm-houses  that  gather 
about  it,  of  some  1,900  souls.  The  original  spelling  of  the  name  was 
Bedeque.     The  village  is  of  some  importance,  both  as  a  shipping  port 


EY. 

islands  oc- 
nds  is  held 
my  curious 
a  visit. 
Or  Lake, 
iike  I  have 
water  lake 
ied  enough 
id,  estuary, 
kin;?  a  dc- 
extent,  so 
ig  in  every 
L-f  of  these 
i'<?.v;'s  Chan- 
iad  of  East 
rywbere  lie 

'ul  channel, 
Jarra  or  the 
i.  The  dis- 
s.  Passing 
se  charm  of 
e  most  dis- 
enable shel- 
d  disregard 
he  lake,  for 
ppage  is  at 
kind  of  im- 
to  be  pre- 
,ng,"  which, 
ilways  good 


lore  sophis- 
ter  of  hotel 
from  Syd- 
that  gather 
le  name  was 
lipping  port 


THBOUGIT  TUE  BKAS  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEY.      211 

aud  as  the  shire  town  <>f  Victoria  County.  It  ih  a  thoroughly  dolipht- 
ful  watering-place,  a  very  idyll  of  peace  and  heaufy  and  -parkliuf:  at- 
mosphere, removed  from  aW  the  bustle  of  modern  affairs,  yet  within 
eai^y  reach  of  the  pleasant  society  of  Sydnty.  In  the  neighborhood  is 
Middle  liivcr,  its  vaH  pt-opN'd  with  Gaclic-speakiiig  Ilit^hlundcrs,  and 
its  innumerable  tumbling  tributaries  fuirly  alive  with  trout.  T\w  curly 
summer  is  best  for  the  trout-fishing,  when  the  sea-trout  arc  running  in 
and  stocl{J"'r  brooks  that  seem  by  far  too  small  for  them.  A  drive  of 
about  30  iiiiles  by  a  lovely  road  will  take  one  to  the  renowned  fishing- 
waters  of  the  Mmyarcc  Jiivrr,  where  the  trout  and  salmon  swarm. 
There  is  good  fishing  also  some  distance  up  the  Bifl  Buddcck  River, 
which  Hows  through  some  of  the  richest  hunting-grounds  of  Cape 
Breton.  A  point  of  some  interest  to  the  tourist  not  idready  satiated 
with  Indians  is  the  AL,,uic  Villaye  near  Baddeck.  These  red  men 
are  in  some  respects  fairly  advanced  in  civilization,  and  their  language, 
which  has  been  minutely  studied  and  systematized  by  the  life-long 
labors  of  the  late  Dr.  Silas  T.  Ran<l,  author  of  a  Micmac  Dictionary, 
has  a  rich  vocabulary  and  no  lack  of  flexibility  and  force.  No  one 
who  reads  the  Micmac  legends  guilnied  by  Mr.  Leland  will  doubt  the 
imaginative  vigor  of  the  tribe.  The  chief  hotels  of  Baddeck  are  the 
Telegraph  House  and  Bras  d'Or  Hotel  Gold  is  found  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Baddeck.  A  magnificent  drive  is  from  Baddeck  to  Whycoeo- 
maffh,  on  a  branch  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  through  the  noblest  of  scenery  all 
the  way.  A  divergence  of  4  or  6  miles  from  the  main  road  takes  one 
to  the  great  water  of  Lake  Ainslie^  the  source  of  the  Margarec.  In 
this  region  are  deposits  of  petroleum,  mari>le,  and  iron,  and  there  is  an 
interesting  cave  near  the  village.  Whycocomagh  may  also  be  reached  by 
steamer  through  the  splendid  strait  of  St.  Patrick's  Channel.  The  pop- 
ulation of  the  district,  of  which  the  village  is  the  center,  is  about  2,500. 
Eighteen  miles  beyond  Whycocomagh  is  Mahon,  on  the  gulf  coast,  an 
important  seaport,  with  rich  coal-fields  in  the  vicinity.  Ten  miles 
southwest  of  Mabou  is  Port  Hood,  with  1,3('0  inhabitants,  the  busiest 
port  on  the  northwest  coast  of  the  island. 

From  Baddeck  to  the  mouth  of  Si/dnei/  Harbor  the  route  varies. 
Sometimes  the  boats,  or  at  least  the  smaller  boats,  take  the  channel 
called  the  Little  Bras  d' Or ,  but  ordinarily  that  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or. 
These  channels  lead  to  the  open  Atlantic,  about  8  miles  from  Sydney 
Harbor.  They  are  divided  by  Bonlarderie  Island,  which  is  about  35  miles 
in  length  by  8  miles  in  sxtreme  width,  and  owes  its  existence  as  an 


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212      THROUGH  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEY. 

island  to  these  strange  and  beautiful  channels.     The  Little  Bms  d'Or 
IS  a  deep  and  tide-swept  passage,  m  narrow  and  intricate  as  to  be  itn- 
passable  for  craft  of  any  size.     In  a  samll  steamer  the  journey  is  very 
romantic  and  impressive,  and  one  feels  hin.self,  at  times,  imprisoned 
hopelessly  m  the  rocky  clefts.      The  Great  Bras  d'Or,  forming,  the 
northwest  boundary  of  Boularderie,  is  a  noble  passage,  ranging  in 
width  fron.  1  to  3  miles,  and  extending  about  30  miles.     It  has  cTreat 
depth,  and  the  scenery  of  its  shores,  overpeered  by  the  Mo^^ntain. 
oj  St.  Anne,  ,s  bold  and  impressive.     From  this  channel  the  steamer 
sails  out  between  the  surf-beaten  headland  of  Cape  Davphin  and  the 
promontory  of  Point  Aconi,  with  its  coal-fields.     From  Point  Aconi 
the  course  is  S.  E.  for  9  miles  to  Cmnlen'i^  Head,  rounding  which  we 
find  ourselves  in  Stjdnci/  Harbor. 

Running  up  the  harbor  we  see  iu  the  distance  the  works  of  the 
Sydney  Mines-indeed,  the  whole  neighborhood  is  studd.ed   with 
coal-mmes    and  at  any  time  we  mav  be  passing  over  the  deep  sub- 
marine  galleries  in  which  the  picks  of  the  miners  are  at  work  with  the 
sea-waves  rolling  fathoms  deep  between  them  and  the  upper  air     The 
coal  of  this  district  is  among  the  best  the  world  produces;  and  amon- 
the  many  mines  engaged  in  bringing  it  to  light  are,  besides  the  Sydney 
mines  already  named,  the  Victoria,  the  Lingan,  the  International,  th'e 
Gowrte  and  the  Link  Glace  £a.f.     These  are  all  easily  accessible  by 
stage  from  the  town  of  Sydney,  and  some  of  them  have  rail  communica- 
tion,  for  freighting  purposes,  which  will  furnish  an  informal  means  of 
transit. 

Sydney. 
Sydney,  which  held  the  proud  position  of  provincial  capital  when 
Cape  Lreton  was  a  province,  boasts  one  of  the  best  harbors  on  all  this 
well-havened  coast.     Her  population  by  the  last  census  (1881)  was 
3,667 ;  and  her  trade,  not  only  in  coal,  but  in  general  produce  as  well 
.8  of  great  and  growing  volume.     The  one  flaw  in  Sydney's  harbor  is 
the  fact  that  it  is  ice-bound  for  the  greater  part  of  the  winter     In 
summer,  however,  it  is  full  of  life  and  activity;  and  being  the  head- 
quarters of  the  French  squadron  in  the  North  Atlantic,  it  becomes  the 
scene  of  a  delightful  social  activity.     The  harbor  is  divided  by  a  penin 
sula  into  two  arms,  and  on  the  southwesterly  arm  is  Sydney     At  the 
extremity  of  the  peninsula  are  the  ruins  of  the  fortifications  and  bar- 
racks, occupied  by  a  British  garrison  up  to  the  time  of  the  Crimean 
War.    The  harbor  was  originally  called  Spaniards'  Bay,  having  been 


tw 


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J» 


THROUGH  THE  BKA8  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEY.       2 1 3 

usLTtT'  !Z  *''  ^'^'""'  fi«'"ng-floets;   and  afterward  it  .as 
used  by  the  English  as  a  center  from  which  to  carry  on  the  struggle  for 
he  .s land.    Now  that  England   has  made  good  and  enduring  her 
tuumph,  France  retams  but  a  pier  and  flag-staff  at  the  town  of  S-  dnev 
representing  her  coaling  privileges.    The  presence  of  the  French  sh'ps 
and  the  Prench  officers,  with  their  continual  and  graceful  hospitalities, 
s  regarded  now  w.th  anything  but  hostility  by  the  citizens  of  Sydney 
In  the  matter  of  hotels  Sydney  is  rather  comfortable  than  modern! 
But  a  summer  hotel  has  been  erected.     The  chief  are  McKen.ie\  the 
Ameruan   Central,  Hearr^s,  and  Mrs.  King^s,     It  is  generally  easv  to 
get  board  m  semi-private  houses,  at  from  $4  to  $6  per  week 

of  Srii'V''"'  ^\^"'^'  '"'  '''''''^  ^y  ^  steam-ferry,  i's  the  town 

notn  fT^  """"'"  '*"'  ^"*  "^'"'^  ^'''  ^harm  than  its  rival,  and  is 
not  hkely  to  attract  the  tourist  to  any  prolonged  sojourn.     It  is  per- 

Inevrh  T  '"'  ""^'^"^"'  '^  ^  ^'^"^  P'-'^  *«  -^^«'he 

-  money  that  may  be  more  agreeably  spent  elsewhere-at  Svdney  for 

instance.  Its  population  is  from  5,000  to  6,000,  and  it  has  several 
tanneries,  a  boot  and  shoe  factory,  and  extensive  ship-yards.  The 
chief  hotels  are  the  Presto  Hou.e,  VmMme,  and  Belmont  Hotel. 

The  harbor  of  Sydney,  though  utterly  overshadowed,  historically, 
by  Louisbourg,  ha.  seen  some  stirring  episodes.  Here  gathered  the 
remnants  of  Admiral  Sir  Ilovcnden  Walker's  fleet  afterlts  wreck  off 
he  St  Lawrence  mouth  in  17ll-a  powerful  remnant,  indeed,  seein.^ 
hat  It  consisted  of  42  ships  of  war.  In  1781  took  place,  off  the  har! 
bor,  a  gallant  battle  between  two  44-gun  French  frigates  and  four  light- 
armed  British  vessels,  which  were  convoying  a  fleet  of  coal-ships.  The 
icsu It  was  a  somewhat  unfruitful  victory  for  the  French,  as  the  defeated 

tlf  of   T-!h     ."*'*'"  ''''P'  ""'^''  '''''  ''  °'g^*'  -ith  the  excep- 

lon  of  a  httle  ship  ot  6  guns  which  remained  in  the  victors'  hands.    In 

1785  the  site  of  Sydney  was  occupied  by  a  party  of  United  Empire 

New  Yoii"  '''''  "^  ^'''^""  ''"^'^•"'  '^-'^'y''  «^  ^^"^'-y^ 

Louisbourg. 

Twenty-four  miles  from  Sydney,  by  rail,  lies  the  storied  site  of 
Louisbourg,  now  but  a  little  fishing  village,  whose  inhabitants  follow 
Ibout'l  000  "t;  ""T'  ""'"'^  ''  Newfoundland.  Its  population  is 
rmns  of  the  walled  city  which  it  was  once  the  fashion  to  call  the  "  Dun. 


mmmm 


214      THROUGH  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEY. 


W/ 


kirk  of  America."  It  is  used  in  summer  as  a  coaling-station.  The 
harbor  is  spacious,  perfectly  sheltered,  and  with  a  good  depth  of  water 
everywhere ;  but  its  supremacy  has  fled  to  Sydney,  and  is  not  likely  to 
return,  unless  a  certain  "  ocean-ferry "  scheme,  one  of  several  such, 
should  some  day  come  into  effect.  This  rather  hypothetical  proposi- 
tion contemplates  a  fast  train-service  between  Louisbourg  and  such 
centers  as  Montreal,  Boston,  and  New  York,  connecting  with  swift 
ocean-steamers  for  the  transatlantic  voyage.  It  would  greatly  shorten 
the  trials  of  those  wliose  dreaded  enemy  is  the  mai-dc-mer. 

The  special  interest  of  Louisbourg  lies  in  its  history,  which  has  been 
so  inimitably  told  by  Parkman  that  every  tourist  visiting  the  spot 
should  take  with  hiir.  the  volumes  entitled  *'  Montcalm  and  Wolfe." 
The  scenery  at  Louisboiu-g  is  not  bold  or  striking.  The  hills  surround- 
ing the  harbor  are  rather  low,  and  without  impressive  features ;  but 
the  land  lies  in  a  shape  very  favorable  to  defensive  fortification.  The 
harbor  entrance  is  narrowed  by  islands  and  reefs  to  a  width  of  about 
half  a  mile,  and  was  protected  by  mighty  batteries;  behind  which,  at 
the  southwest  point  of  the  harbor,  rose  the  city  walls.  The  opposite 
side  of  the  harbor-mouth  is  a  promontory  called  Lighthouse  Point, 
which  proved  itself  the  key  to  the  situation,  and  dominated  the  main 
defense,  that  known  as  the  hiand  Battery.  Louisbourg  arose  after  the 
Treaty  of  Utrecht,  and  in  its  building  no  treasure  was  spared.  The  best 
engineering  skill  of  the  time  was  expended  upon  it,  and  when  com- 
pleted the  French  engineers  made  the  boast  that  it  could  be  effectively 
defended  by  a  garrison  of  women.  The  landward  side  was  not  de- 
fended with  the  same  degree  of  care,  as  only  a  sea  attack  was  consid- 
ered practicable.  The  wild  surf  of  Gabarus  Bay,  and  the  bogs  inter- 
vening between  that  water  and  the  city,  were  regarded  as  a  sufficient 
defense  against  the  approach  of  heavy  artillery,  and  against  light  guns 
the  walls  were  adequate. 

As  soon  as  war  was  declared  between  France  and  England,  in  1744, 
Massachusetts  turned  her  attention  to  Louisbourg,  as  a  deadly  menace 
to  her  safety.  In  1*745  she  decided  to  undertake  its  capture.  The  ex- 
pedition she  sent  out  was  commanded  by  Colonel  William  Pepperell, 
who  was  supported  by  Commodore  Warren  and  the  West  India  squad- 
ron of  the  British  fleet.  The  New  England  forces,  raw  troops,  com- 
manded by  untrained  officers,  astonished  the  world  by  capturing  the 
supposed  impregnable  fortress.  Though  the  British  fleet  lent  valuable 
aid  and  support,  the  main  credit  for  the  splendid  achievement  is  indis- 


i^« 


taw 


i|i» 


w/ 


THROUGH  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEY.      215 


v^« 


u« 


i^ 


putably  due  to  the  New  England  militia  and  to  their  sagacious  and  calla- 
ble commander.  When  Pepperell  found  himself  within  the  walls,  and 
saw  the  tremendous  casemates  and  bastions  and  bomb-proofs  which 
his  guns  had  shattered,  and  realized  from  the  shot-torn  walla  of  the 
citadel,  the  convent,  the  hospital,  and  the  stately  cathedral,  the  wealth 
and  importance  of  the  situation,  he  was  overwhelmed  with  a  sense  ot 
the  magnitude  of  his  accomplished  task.  This  feat  of  the  New-Eng- 
landers  settled  the  contest  in  Europe.  With  the  Peace  of  1749  Louis- 
bourg  was  restored  to  France  in  return  for  concessions  nearer  home ; 
and  all  that  seemed  to  remain  to  New  England  for  her  enterprise  was 
the  title  conferred  on  Pepperell.  But  in  truth  the  country  had  mani- 
fested her  power,  not  only  to  herself  but  to  the  world. 

In  1755,  when  war  again  broke  out  between  France  and  England, 
the  English  attempted  to  surprise  Louisbourg ;  but  France  had  not  for- 
gotten her  lesson,  and  was  found  alert.  In  the  spring  of  1758  England 
gathered  her  forces  for  an  eflFort  that  should  be  tinal ;  and  early  in 
June  Wolfe  appeared  before  Louisbourg,  support  by  a  vast  fleet.  This 
trained  commander  followed  almost  minutely  in  the  '"  jotsteps  of  Pep- 
perell, rightly  appreciating  the  old  New-Englander's  insight.  Louis- 
bourg had  been  immensely  strengthened  for  just  such  an  emergency,  but 
the  result  was  the  same  as  before,  and  upon  the  destruction  of  the  har- 
bor defenses,  and  of  almost  all  the  JP'rench  fleet  at  refuge  in  the  harbor, 
the  city  surrendered,  giving  up  a  force  of  nearly  6,000  men  and  230  guns. 
After  the  capture,  England  spent  months  in  the  efl'ort  to  thoroughly 
erase  the  fortifications.  Of  the  proud  city  itself  there  is  left  not  one 
stone  upon  another,  but  the  mighty  lines  of  the  earthworks  yet  remiin, 
with  the  grand  slope  of  the  glacis,  and  the  enduring  arches  of  the  case- 
mates and  magazines.  The  scene  recalls  with  an  almost  poignant  ap- 
propriateness the  lines  of  Browning : 

Where  the  quiet  colored  end  of  evening  smiles, 

Miles  and  miles, 
On  the  solitary  pastures  where  our  sheep, 

Half  asleep, 
Tinkle  homeward  through  the  twilight,  stray  or  stop, 

As  they  crop, 
Was  the  site  once  of  a  city  great  and  gay, 

So  they  say, 
Of  our  country's  very  capital ;  its  prince 

Ages  since, 
Held  his  court  in,  gathered  councils,  wielding  far 

Peace  or  war. 


236 


TIIROPOH  TKK  BBA8  d'oB  WATERS  TO  BYmEY. 


the   last  rcstin-plaoe  of  th-  h.        v"       „  ''''"''  B«""y,  ia 

whose  voice  .1  :;Z^„,  J  :;';:f;:,'«"'"8."'  «-  -ter  s„r,, 
memorial.  °"°™''  """"  »'"■  "<>  more  delinlto 

New  Glasgow  to  Truro  and  Halifex 

Truro,  a  distance  of  43  Ti  c     sf or  tL  n    ?       "  l'"  '"'"«°"  "> 
a..intere»ti„..  couwv  tho^r'T     .,  """■'  ""-"'fc'h  «  rather 

Shubenaeadic  2"  if/  °.  '■°'"'  ■""'""'  *'  ""'^  »'  "■" 

-e„er,.    Six  „i,e,  Wyond  StlrtlTthe  oM  XL":;';?  ""  :,' 
w.th  Its  quaint,  old-fashioned  inn  of  Hopewell  Ho^T  ?         ' 

and  a  prosperous  woolen  min      v       "°P™'"  ^olel,  a  spool.factory, 

oiengafr,,  i^ei:ttZui::Ttit:i!:'''''j'^ "'''"-'  •- 

Joch  and  New  lairir     Th™  „         ,       .  *  *«>«me""8  of  Gair. 

(2.  miles),  RivtSc  amon, T  wl ao™"-!" ,  TJ'^^^'  ''=^'  ^'"" 
Va...  (3S  „iles,.  and  .  ^.n^  Z^VZ^^^i^^oZ  S' 

u^  luiies  rrom  Halifax,  65  mi  es  from  Picton  nnH  "«     -i 
from  Amherst.     It  stanrto  «»  ft,^  «•    .-,      „  ^iciou,  and  ,6  miles 

River,  at  the  hea    „,  Co  e^dd  filTwh      "™'  '"'"''  "'  '"^  «""">" 

Trur„.s„.nufao,„resiS„de  elthlts  lethe""  7'"°'  "''""  '''"'°- 
machine,-,,  iron  caslinn.,!!      ?     '      **"'' "'°"'™'''  ''""'^ '"''  shoos, 

hotels  are  .roIdS    7^.  / '°^ t'/""  °*"  ''™'-     '"■'^  "- 

Of  the  town,  ,ndifr:;f„;^:f::  ::;^^.f  "\-'-' ''.-are 

But  there  are  n,an.v  „„re  hotels  in  4e "„     T™  •'  ^I  "'  '''"'°"- 
well-conducted  educational  institution  T  r.  '"  ""'  "'"  "'  ' 

which  occupies  a  hanZl  b  i  H       '    k°  '"■'  ^'""^^  '^'^'' 

The  town  is  leve^nt  ,1^ „  "  t  "'  l\  ""■'''"  «™'""''  """"  '«' 
well  Shaded,  and  colinin    si   '«^°  jL'iS™?:'  l'""'.  "^'^  "" 

".e..o„ndint:vr:'-r'trsirfT^^^^^^^^^^ 


1 


lir 


i 


^h 


1  r 


.'•'»< 


Lou,s,ounj  M.,norua.  erect.l  ly  tUe  Society  of  Colonial   nar. 
This  luoiiuinent  will  supply  the  lack  of  a 


the  author. 


suitable  memorial,  noted  by 


^ 


NEW   GLASGOW   TO   TRUKO   AND   HALIFAX.  217 

wooded  ravine  traversed  by  a  small  stream,  which  at  one  point  falls  in 
a  lovely  cascade  into  a  fairy-like  chasm.  The  steep  wall  of  this  chasm 
18  Imed  with  winding  steps,  and  nooks  containing  seats,  and  lighted  by 
electric  lamps  swung  in  the  foliage.  When  these  unique  grounds  are 
illummated,  the  effect  is  enchanting. 

Truro  was  originally  occupied  by  the  Acadiana,  and,  alter  their  ex- 
pulsion, by  immigrants  from  New  Hampshire  and  disbanded  Irish  sol- 
diers.     The  Shubenacadie  River,  running  past  the  back  of  the  town  is 
one  of  the  longest  in  Nova  Scotia,  and  in  the  lower  portion  of  its  course 
IS  a  tidal  stream,  with  important  ship-yards  about  its  n)outh.    The  tide 
at  this  point  is  tremendous.     Along  the  course  of  the  Shubenacadie 
and  connecting  with  the  Dartmouth  Lakes  lies  the  disused  Shubena- 
cadie Canal,  which  was  built  at  an  enormous  cost  but  turned  out  a 
failure.     From  Truro  a  stage  line  runs  down  the  north  shorrj  of  Cobe- 
quid  Bay  a  distance  of  between  40  and  50  miles,  through  the  settle- 
ments  of  Masstown  (where  stood  the  largest  chapel  of  the   ancient 
Acadians,  and  where  now  the  old  poplars  and  apple-trees  remind  us  of 
the  former  inhabitants),  Folly  Village,  Great  Village,  Highland  Vil- 
lage, Port  au  Pique,  Bass  River,  and  Upper  Economy,  to  Five  Islands 
where  stand,  off  shore,  those  five  great  rocks  which,  say  the  Indians' 
were  thrown  there  by  GluskAp  in  his  contest  with  the  Great  Beaver     ' 
Till  we  approach  Halifax  the  journey  from  Truro  yields  little  in  the 
way  of  striking  scenery.     The  station  next  to  Truro  is  Brookfield  (8 
miles);  then  the  pretty  pastoral  village  of  Stewi<^cke  (IV  miles)  and 
the  river  of  the  same  name.     From  the  busy  little  village  of  Shubena- 
cadie  (22  miles)  stages  run  down  the  river  18  miles  to  the  rich  ship, 
bmlding  village  of  Maitland,  which  stands  on  an  arm  of  Cobequid  Ba' 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Shubenacadie.     Maitland  ships  and  Maitland 
sai  ors  may  be  found  on  every  sea.     Near  Maitland,  in  the  gypsum 
rock,  so  abundant  in  all  these  regions,  there  is  a  curious  cave  worth     . 
exploring.     Its  entrance  is  barely  large  enough  to  admit  one  com- 
fortably; but  It  enlarges  as  you  go  in,  and  is  some  400  or  500  yards 
m  depth.     Stages  also  run  from  Shubenacadie,  in  a  southeasterlv  direc- 
tion, to  the  gold  district  of  Gay's  River  and  a  number  of  villa-es  be- 
yond.    The  gold  of  Gay's  River  is  found  in  the  conglomerate  rock  of  a 
long  ridge  of  heights  called  Boar's  Back.     Leaving  Shubenacadie  we 
pass  the  villages  of  Milford  (26  miles),  Elmsdale  (32  miles),  and  En- 
held  (34  miles).    Enfield  has  a  large  and  prosperous  establishment  for 
the  manufacture  of  pottery,  its  clay  being  excellent  in  strength  and 


218  NKW    ULAHUOW    TO   TKirUo    AND    HALIFAX. 

tnxlnio.  Thro..  imIIph  h.hiMi  of  MntloM  m„  ||„.  rai„„„H  OUham  (/old 
Miurn,  hImho  1111.111/.  vuvV  vI..(.|m  v.mv  li.-li  n-HiniM.  About  7  iiiilo,'  on 
fll.'  Olh.M'  «l.|.<  of  Kndrl.l  „,..  Ilio  lirnfrar  <iol,l  Mi,„„^  ,.,|.iHlly  fi.nious. 
Afl.-r  imihhIii^  ()iiI(|||.|<I  (MH  miloH)  wo  com.,  to  tli.-  M.i;,'-stu(ion  of  (Jiaml 

•'"'*"• '  '"'""I  w"'''!'  «»!"  M"'  Hiinio  iiiniu.,  wlu.ivin  may  lu<  hiul  Home 

oH.'.ll.iil    (.oiKIIhIiIiik.  „h    ill    III.,  ollin-   liikoH   of    tliin  "lioiKhborliood. 
Afl.'f  |HiNHlii|r  \V..|liii,xlo.Mll  rnilcH),  iin.l  sUirliiif?  r.oii^'  I,nk..,  tli..  tiiiin 
niiiH  Into  \Vi,nlmn-  .h,„rtio„  (4N  milrs),  hIku.  ((„.  Inlomiloniii!  R.  U. 
«'«Miii....»H  Willi  (li..  WliulHOf  iiii.l  Annapolis  IJailwnv.     Tli..  junofion  con- 
kIkIh,  Iio)*I.|oh  llio  Mtiilion  Inmso,  of  sonir  lialf-dozoinvhitowasliod  Awn- 
Uo^    II    llltlo   wliHowaHliotl   .'ImiivIi.   somo  pK'diivH.nu.   pools  of    doni- 
wnlor.  a   lair  s|„iiiKlin^..  of  ^oaJs.  myri.i.ls  of  ^mviU,  may  l...wIdors,  mid 
\\v\v  an.i  (hoiv  in  tli,.  nvvio.s  11  l.lm.l...in-l»usli.     It  is  a  pioturos.iuc 
jdmv,  hut  m  ono  dtopw  Ihoio  imloss  now  and  tlioii  to  Imnt  for  wati-r- 
lillos  itnd  to  n«.t  ti  hoti'l  ono  must  nin  on  to  Hodford  or  Halifax.    Thi-oo 
uilloM  h..yond  Windsor  .Innotlon  is  Ho.ky  l.ako,  uonr  tlio  Wavorly  (Jold 
Minos,  uliioli  aiv  ohaviningly  sitiiato.l  in  a  piotuivsinio  and  narrow  val- 
loy  hol««.on  two  l.ik,.s.     Kifty-tlnvo  niilos  fioin  Tn.io  wo  run  ovor  a  hijrh 
lu'ldHV.  «oix»ss  a  hoautifiil  pooplod  valloy,  into  tho  villajro  of  llodfo'^il 
t»ud  a  landsoapo  of  onohautiKont,     Modfoixl  Is  at  tho  hoad  of  tho  noble 
wator  oallod   Ihslfonl   llasiu,  .»  j;ivat  lako-liko  oxpansi«>n  of  Halifax 
IhnlMu-,     it  Is  i>  niilos  fi>,un   Halifax,  with  whioh  it  is  muioottHl  by 
!*ub.nK»u  trains  as  «oll  as  by  tho  oxpivss  sorvi^v  of  tho  Intori-oloniai. 
lis  btxitinj;  and  lva,hin;r  suv  not  to  Iv  surpassinl,  and  its  wators  an^ 
doliohMisly  mild  In  tompoiatuiv.    Many  Halij^nuans  havo  thoir  sununor 
ivsldomvs  hoiv.  and  thoiv  ar.^  also  two  j^hhI  hotols*.  tho  Ji,xif\mi  and 
tho  AVA^t^r.  oKvso  to  tho  station.  >>hoso  mtos  art^  ^^J  ^n^r  day  or  |H0 
por  wo..k.     lUthor  ,vmo  tho  trim  onift  of  tho  Halifax  Koval  Yaoht 
fsp»adi>m.     It  IS  a  Ivautiful  drivo  U^txx^vu  Halifax  and  l?iHlfonl.  and 
tho  ovad   |vasst\s  tho  quaint    Httlo  stniotun*  of  tho   PHhi-x's    L.>,1^, 
\>»M>h,>l  on  tho  or,\st  of  a  pn^ity  liulo  wiHHi»>i  knoll  and  ,<h.^king  to 
tho  Ihumlor  of  tho  |%avvinn  ti-aius^.     This  rx^ix  at  is  swix^i  with  rxMu^tic 
»uouuvn,\s  of  tho  l>uko  of  Kont's  si>jvMm»  in  Halitax.  and  of  the  lady 
>»h,vv,v  „^.,,^,^  ^^^  {„  ,jj^^^^,  ^j^^^  ^^,  i«tin>atoly  tvnn.vttxi  with  his.     Tho 
rwih\v^,l  skirts  tho  lNa,Mn.  for  tho  tinvst  jvan  oUv<o  to  th<.  wator's  e^lsw, 
*ndth<»  dt^liJ:^tf\d  'MMts"  that  jxass  in  s»k\>vv<hw  lvfx>rx^  om>*s  ot«>' 
w«,>^t  txm^vwt  the  ^Md  of  tW  artist.     Rw  mikv  l>e>\>rKi  ii^s'-o^'  i< 
K.s^it\jj?3Aw.  *ith  its  hxw?.  x^:K\i  tho  FMir^Mik  Mm«v,  ami  tho  fitw 
lv»^v^  UniKH^Vi*  of  tht^  v\vnxr^u  s^-Jkvj  fv>r  pHs.  «iUt\i  M.MUJt  Sj.  Vln- 


I 


NKW    GLASGOW    TO   TliUUO   AND    HALIFAX. 


cent.    Off  Kookin^'hnm  is  u  faiii 


2JU 


I 


onH  HMving-courHc,  Tlioti  «»•  corr c  to  tito 
NuirowM,  whore  the  harbor  is  but  u  quarter  of  a  ruile  in  width.  Present- 
\y  we  enter  the  crowded  freight-yards  of  tlie  dinfry  suburb  of  Uieliinond  ; 
and  a  mile  farther  on  the  train  conies  to  a  stop  in  the  depot  of  Halifax' 
on  North  Sfyect.  * 

Halifax. 

^<JK?/  ^'T'^^'-'^r'^K  "flif'^^  a^coniing  to  the  census  of   m*\,  wan 
n'  ^-  J}"!:  ''^"i"^  •'"^^'''^  """^  the  I/a/ifcu-  (*2  to  *«  pc-r  d^y)     the 

J  •■  ^A  '•''  ^''''^'7;  <*^  *"  *'-^*^)-  '^*'"  P""<Mpal  streets  are  trav- 
ersed by  horse-ears  (fare  S  cents).  The  city  is  well  sur.pli.-.i  with  eal.H, 
whose  charges  are  as  follows:  For  each  person  for  any  dintano  u,.  to 
1  n..Ie,  2..C  ;  lA  u.ile,  30c.;  2  miles.  4()c.  ;  2^  miles',  l.^e. ;  .S  ,„jles, 
50t. ;  and  all  other  distances  m  like  proportion.  One  half  th.;  above 
^ate^  to  be  paid  if  returning  in  the  same  carriage.  K..r  all  eabs  or  .-ar- 
riages  hired  by  the  hour:  For  a  one-horse  carriage  per  hour  7r„-  •  for 
a  ovo-horse  carriage  per  hour,  ^1  ;  and  in  like  pn,portion  for  Vvery 
fraction  of  an  hour.  To  or  from  any  steamer  or' passenger  vessel,  or 
o  or  from  any  hotel  or  .Iwelhng-house  to  any  stage  offiei^  railway  ita- 
turn,  or  other  place,  with  half  a  cwt.  of  luggage  .V)c 

The  chief  clubs  are  the  f/a/i/ax  CM,  aiul  the  07y  C/vA  The 
hoj^af.Uva  Sc.f,,  } acU  Club  may  also  be  mentioned.among  many 
oi^ranizations  of  a  similar  class,  as  having  a  somewhat  marked  sJal 
baM>.  The  chief  theatre.*  are  the  Acar/e„u,  of  Mmir  an-l  Orph^in  thll 
trom  Halifax  sail  a  number  of  steamboat  lines:  the  Fumess  Line 
to  London;  Dominion  Line  to  Liverpool ;  Donaldson  Line  to  f;ia.-gow^ 
^rinW  V  '?  "'iV*'^  Allan  Line  to  Liverpr,ol ;  Red  «>o«s  Line  to 
bt.  John  ^  Newfoundland :  Anglo-French  Line  to  <x  IVrre-  linen  to 
Bermuda  Jamaica,  TurkN  L^lands.  and  Havana:  the  Vam  uVh  Line  o 
^armouth:  Ha  ifax  and  P.  E.  I.  Line  to  ("harlottetown  ;  Halifax  and 
Newfoundland  Line  (Steamer  Harlaw,  to  Caf*  Hreton  and  the  French 

Sriwl,  '"^Tt^''"^=  '^^"^"^  "'^^^  Bridgewator  Line  to  Luner.b,  rg 
Bndgewater  and  Liverpool :  and  the  fine  -teamers  ff alifax  and  011v,.tt;- 
of  tht-  Canada  Atlantic  and  Plant  Line  to  B^^ion.     T>.ls  U  a  u,i^x  >lc- 
sirable  route  to  Boston.     The  fare  b  f  7 :  ret.™  ticket,  f  12.     .«Lu-. 

^Hf JAV"  *lr  ".  ^^T-  ^•^  ''^°*^"  '^"""f?  ^he  winder  .*,!  from 
Hahfax  eve^  Walne^ay.  at  ^  ^  «  .  arnvin-  in  Px^,.>n  T],r.rvlav  at  1 
P.  M. :  from  Bo-ton  every  ijatuniay  at  noon.  arriTing  In  Halifax  .-owJar 
eTemn|,  n  p.  m.     Tbe^ummer  .ailinir*  are  a..  foUr.ws :  From  B^^t.^; 

Tne^ay  and  Fnur^lay,  «  *  ^.  m„  and  .-^nirday,  at  10  r.  «.  Thtf,n^U 
rnket.^  *7 1^*-^  ai  coM««ion  with  x\m  Mm,  ot«  n^^x  \u:^m*M  raii- 
w^N  *xA  ttt-^^e  cb^ted  ihm^^.     Tb,  \^u  are  t^  *t/^T  *n,i 

mm»«i  Atlanw  R*i!»*t  aa^i  tbe  Y*™>yitli  .<c«afe*hJp  r>«i««i,   ^^ 


J?! 


220 


HALIFAX. 


Tl...  city  of  Halifax  Ih  ^itu«to(l  on  Ilnlifnx  Hnrbor,  formerly  Che- 
bmto  May,  one  of  tlio  fi.u-st  ImihoiH  i„  the  world.     TIh'  harbor  proper 
whose  Indhm  nu.iH.HiKnitics  -'the  diioi  haven,"  is  tJ  n.ilo.s  h.n^,  with  m 
average  breadth  of  1   mile,  and  has  in  every  portion  .eeure  aneh«.raRe 
for  the  larReHt  Hhij.s  that  float.     The  history  of  Halifax  h  con.para- 
lively  J)rief,  but  stirrin-      It  was  fo.imh'd  in  June,  1749,  by  the  Hon 
Kdwar.l  Cornwallis,  with   2,rm   Hritish   inwni-rants.     The  "ehief  pro^ 
moter  of  the  enterprise  was  the  Karl  of  Halifax,  Fr.-.sident  of  the  Hoard 
of  Tra(h'  and  Plantations.    When  winter  eame  there  were  nearly  5  000 
people  within  the  palisaded  wuIIh  of  the  infant  city.     The  buil.ling  of 
Halifax  was  a  proelamation  to  the  French  that  En-land  int.'nd.-d  to 
make  the  i)eninsula  thoroufrhly  and  pernmnentiv  her  own;  and  forth- 
with the  Acadians  and  their  Indian  allies,  under  the  direction  of  a-ents 
from  Quebec  and  Cape  Breton,  be-an  to  harass  the  new  settlement 
and  strive  ii  every  way  to  compass  its  destruction.    If  men  went  ah.ne 
into  the  woo.is  to  hunt  or  father  fuel,  they  were  cut  off  by  un.seen  foes 
(h.tlyin-  houses  were  raided  by  ni-ht,  and  their  occupants  slaughtered 
or  carried  away  captive.     Children  were  stolen  from  the  threshold  or 
the  cradle.     A  small  village  had  rai)idly  sprung  up  where  now  stands 
Darlmonth,  across  the  harbor.     One  night  the  citizens  of  Halifax,  too 
far  away  to  render  aid,  had  to  watch  helplessly  the  burning  of  this' set- 
tiement,  and  li.Uen  to  the  noise  of  a  conflict  who.se  result  they  could 
guess  but  too  well.     The  case  was  in  some  respects  a  parallel,  in  others 
a  sharp  contrast,  to  that  of  Montreal  on  the  ni-ht  of  the  Lachine  mas- 
sacre.    When  the  Halifax  contingent  arrived  with  daybreak  on  the 
scene  they  found  the  scalped  bodies  of  the  settlers  among  the  smoking 
rums  of  their  dwellings.     This  was  in  1751.     The  new  city  speedily 
became  a  great  naval  station,  whereat  the  English  forces  concentrated 
for  the  attack  of  Louisbouig  and  Quebec;  and  during  the  American 
Revolution  Halifax  was  the  chief  base  of  Hritish  operations      When 
the  independence  of  the  Thirteen  Colonies  was  acknowledged,  the  popu- 
lation  of  Halifax  grew  suddenly  by  the  immigration  of  some  thousands 
of  United  Empire  Loyalists.     The  growth  of  Halifax  since  then  has 
been  slow  as  regards  population,  but  n)ore  considerable  as  far  as  wealth 
and  influence  are  concerned.     The  American  civil  war  brought  Halifax 
a  short  period  of  remarkable  prosperity,  when  she  became  the  head  of 
extensive  blockade-running  operations  and  a  center  for  Southern  sym- 
pathizers.    With  peace  came  something  like  stagnation,  from  which 
he  city  has  awakened  only  within  the  last  decade. 


1 


HALIFAX. 


221 


„ 


J 


THK  FOHTIFK'ATIONH. 

In  the  city  of  thv.  present   day  the  chief  interest  eenterH  in  the 
fortifieations,   wliieh  conntitute  Halifax  the  stronycHt  fortress  iti  the 
New  Worhl.     Tl>e  defenses  beji;in  at  Sanihro  Inland,  off  the  ni.uitli 
of  the  harbor,  wliieh   is  oeeupied  by  a  "  looiioiit "  party  of  artillery. 
Two   miles   b>  'nw  the  city  is  Af(ici\ti/»\s  /stand,  crowned  with  stone 
batteries,   and   carrying  a   lij^'ht   to   warn   ships    off    the    Thrumcap 
Shoals.     Above  and  below,  stronj;  battel ies,  of  which   the  chief   is 
York  Kedoiibt,  lie  in  wait  at  i)t)iiits  of  vanta},'e  on  txjtli  sides  of  the 
harbor.     In  Point  Pleasant  Park,  imniediately  adjoining  the  city,  be- 
tween the  harbor  and  the  northwest  Arm,  are  the  brtteries  of  Point 
Pleasant   and    Fort   Ogilvie.     Across   the   harbor,   just   below   Bar/, 
mouth,  are  the  frowning   works  of   Fort    Cfaretirr,  and  in  mid-har- 
bor is  the  grassy  cone  of    (/rnr</e\i  htand,   with  armaiiionts  and  de- 
fenses of  vast  but  unknown  strength.     On  this  fortrers  (Jreat  Britain 
has  lately  spent  and  is  still  spending  immense  sums,  and  it  may  be  con- 
sidered the  equal  of  the  citadel,  if  not  its  superior  in  some  res|)ects. 
Of  old  it  was  possible  to  gain  admittance  to  this  stronghold,  but  now  its 
stupendous  mysteries  are  ki-pt  obscure,  since  visitors  were  found  to  have 
made  interesting  plans  and  notes  in  regard  to  the  works.     Tow,  if  any 
one,  peculiarly  favored  by  authority,  should  gain  entrance  to  a  portion 
of  the  interior,  he  would  find  the  green  and  harmless-looking  island 
swarming  with  troops,  and  honey-combed  with  galleries  and  arsenals 
and  casemates.     From  the  port-hole  of  one  of  these  casemates,  around 
whose  mouth  the  grass  waves  innocently,  and  behind  which  lurks  the 
gr'm  shape  of  a  great  cannon  like  a  beast  of  prey  in  ambush,  one  locks 
out  upon  a  sunlit  scene  of  peace  and  human  activity.     On  the  ramparts 
of  the  citadel  (to  which  it  is  now  almost  impossible  to  gain  even  the 
most  superficial  entrance)  one  is  22Y  ft.  above  sea-level,  and  the  view 
is  magnificent.     The  city  skirts  the  citadel  hill,  its  streets  running  up 
the  height  as  far  as  permitted.     The  works  were  begun  by  the  Duke  of 
Kent  when  commander  of  the  forces  at  Halifax,  and  almost  yearly 
since  they  have  been  changed  and  strengthened  in  one  way  or  another, 
till  now  the  position  is  regarded  as  impregnable ;   and  the  barracks 
within  the  walls  are  shell-proof.     The  armament  is  largely  composed 
of  immenssly  heavy  muzzle-loaders  of  a  modern  type,  firing  conical 
Palliser  chilled  iron  shot.     Around  the  narrow  entrance  gate  stands 
guard  a  semicircular  battery  of  11   gun>\    On  the  citadel  flag-staff 


i"22 


HALIFAX. 


«  n 


flutter  gayly  the  raany-colored  signal  flags  that  announce  approaching 
ships. 

OTHER  POINTS  OP  INTEREST. 

In  no  way  inferior  to  the  view  from  the  c;tad(.l  is  that  from  the 
decli  of  boat  or  steamer  as  we  sail  up   the   harbor.     The   climbing 
streets  and  •oofs,  the  so-^.ring  spires,  and  the  crowning  fortifications 
come  together  with  extpiisitc  effect.     In  a  corner  of  the  dark  and  broken 
Dartmouth  shca-es  lurks  the  little  town  of  DartUiOuth.     The  coloring  of 
the  scene  is  lovely  enough  in  the  broad  sunlight ;  but  when  the  sun  is 
setting  at  tb?  head  of  the  harbor  it  becomes  simply  superb.     The 
masts  of  the  shipping  rise  black  ir.  a  flood  of  rose  or  amber,  the  win- 
dows  on  tlie  Dartmouth  shore  are  a  blaze  of  molten  copper,  and  the 
sky  above  the  hills  of  the  outer  harbor,  to  eastward,  takes  on  a  hue  of 
wonderful  beryl  green.     In   this  divine  light  the  grim  bulks  of  her 
Majesty's  war-ships,  motionless  at  their  anchorage  off  the  Dockmnl, 
rise  black  and  portei..  ^us.     The  Royal   Dockyaid,  toward  the  upper 
end  of  the  city,  extends  for  half  a  mile  along  the  harbor  front,  and  is 
in  every  respect  a  thoroughly  equipped  navy-yard.     It  is  divided  from 
the  rest  of  the  city  by  a  high  stone  wall,  and  is  not  c;.n  to  the  pub- 
lic;   but  permission  to  visit  it   may   usually  be  obtained  from   the 
superintendent.     A  little  farther  up  town,  on  Gottingen  St.,  is  the  Ad- 
mirahn  Home,  where  dwells  the  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  North 
American  and  West  India  Squadrons.     The  Admiralty  House  overlooks, 
though  at  some  little  distance,  the  costly  and  massive  structure  of  the 
Dry  Dock,  lately  completed.     This  structure  is  613|  ft.  long  at  the 
top,  598  ft.  long  Mt  the  bottom  ;  in  width  102  ft.  at  top,  10  ft.  at  bot- 
tom ;  and  has  a  drauglit  al  wrter  on  the  sills  of  30  ft.     This  exceeds  the 
dimensions  of  the  Brooklyn  Dry  Dock  by  4tJ  ft.  in  length  and  13  iu 
width.     It  is  built  of  granite  and  concrete.     A  little  N.  stand  the  spa- 
cious WcUinriton  Barracks.     The  general  effect  of  the  streets  of  Hali- 
fax is  somber,  from  the  prevalence  of  gray  stone  or  gray  paint,  or  in 
many   quarters,   no  paint   at   ail.     The  best  portions  of  Ilou'is  and 
Granville  Sts.  are  well  and  sol: Jiy  built,  showing  wealth  without  dis- 
play.     The  most  important  structure  on  HoUis  St.  is  the  massive,  dark- 
gray  PaHiamcHt  Buihling,  which  must  be  regarded,  in  its  severe  sim- 
plicity, as  a  really  good  piece  of  architecture.     The  Chambess  of  the 
Assembly  and  the  Legislative  Council  are  tastefully   decorated,  and 
contain  some  rather  notable  portraits.     A.raong  these  is  one  of  Sir 


«  n 


HALIFAX. 


223 


of 


Thomas  Strange,  painted  by  Eenjamin  West.  There  are  also  several  of 
England's  kings  and  queens,  and  such  distinguished  sons  of  Nova 
Scotia  as  Judge  Haliburton,  better  known  as  Sam  Slick,  Sir  John  In- 
glis,  the  defeiider  of  Lucknow,  and  Sir  Feuwick  Williams,  the  hero  of 
Kars.  The  building  also  contains,  in  the  Legislative  Library,  a  valu- 
able collection  of  books.  Opposite  the  Parliament  Building  stands  a 
handsome  freestone  structure  whose  lower  stories  are  occupied  by  the 
Post-Office  and  Custom-House,  and  its  third  floor  by  the  Provincial 
Museum.  Just  S.  of  the  Parliament  House  are  the  fine  brown-stone 
quarters  of  the  Halifax  Club.  Farther  along  Hollis  St.,  on  the  E.  side, 
are  the  chief  hotels  of  the  city,  the  Halifax  Hotel  and  the  Queen.  The 
Halifax  occupies  a  historic  building,  which  has  been  enlarged  and  mod- 
ernized to  one  of  the  best-equipped  hotels  in  Canada.  On  the  corner 
•  of  Granville  and  Prince  Sts.  is  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building,  with  its  library 
and  reading-rooms. 

A  good  deal  of  the  business  of  Gianville  St.  is  shifting  farther 
up  the  hill  to  Harrington  St.,  one  of  the  most  important  thorough- 
fares  in  the  city.     This  street  is  peculiarly  confusing  to  visitors,  for 
in  its  lower  portion  it  calls   itself  Pleasant  St.,  while  its  upper  or 
northern  section  is  known  as  Loekman  St. ;    and  its  last  extreniity 
becomes  Campbell  Road.     Only  the  life-long  resident  is  expected  to 
know  the  point  at   which   one  name  ceases   to   apply   and   another 
comes  into  effect.     On  Harrington  St.,  at  the  south  end  of  the  Grand 
Parade,  stands  the  dingy  but  dignified  old  church  of  St.  PanVs.     This 
great  wooden  structure  is  the  oldest  church  in  the  city,  having  been 
built  in  the  year  1750,  at  the  State  expense.     It  is  an  exact  copy  of 
St.  Peter's  Oiurch,  on  Vere  St.,  London.     The  building  is  ont  of  groat 
historic  interest  and  its  collection  of  mural   tablets  is  richer  than 
that  of  any  other  church  in  Canada.     It  accommodates  about  2,000 
peoi)le.     The  Parade  is  the  central  square  of  the  city,  and  occupies  a 
teirace  high  above  Harrington  St.     Th«  terrace  wall   is  a   splendid 
piece  of  masonry  in  gray  granite.     At  the  north  end  of  the  Parade 
rises  the  .-  -tely  pile  of  the  New   City  Hall,  on  the  site  formerly  oc- 
cupied by  the  buildings  of  Dalhonsic  University.    This  progressive  and 
flourishing  university  now  occupies  a  handsome  new  structure  some  dis- 
tHnce  out  Morris  St.     It  has  made  great  advances  within  the  last  few 
years,  under  the  presidency  of  Dr.  Forrest. 

Moving  south  along  Harrington  St.  from  the  Parade  we  pass  the 
efl'tctive  new  structure  of  the  Church  of  England  Institute,  and  then  the 


Hi 

'  1   I 

ii 


wr 

i  it* 


I       r     J 


I  t 

ill' 


>,  'Rl 


224 


HALIFAX. 


building  of  the  City  Club.    Then  comes  the  pretty  little  theatre,  called  the 
Academy  of  Music ;  and  opposite,  on  the  corner  of  SJpring  Garden  Road 
IS  the  Glebe  House,  soon  to  be  demolislied,  where  dwells  the  Roman 
Catholic  Archbishop  of  Halifax.    A  stone's-throw  from  the  corner  in  a 
most  commanding  situation,  stands  .SV.  Mavf/^  Cathedral,  bvfar  the  most 
important  church,  architecturally,  in  the  city.    It  is  built  of  gray  stone 
with  a  fine  front  and  spire  of  granite.     In  the  spire  is  a  chime  of  bells' 
not  remarkably  melodious.     Beyond  the  Academy  of  Music  stand.  St 
Matthewh  Church,  belonging  to  the  Presbyterians.     This  is  a  buildin- 
of  some  architectural  distinction-which  can  not  be  said  of  the  majority 
of  Halifax  churches.     Next  to  St.  Matthew's,  on  a  charming  site    is 
the  plain  freestone  structure  of  G  over  nmmt  House,  whose  grounds 'ex 
tend  through  to  Hollis  St.     Immediately  opposite  is  old  St    Paul's 
Cemetery,  very  notigeable  for  its  fine  trees  and  its  striking  monument 
to  the  memory  of  t«o  Xova  Scotian  officers,  Welsford  and  Parker 
who  fell  before  Scbastopol.     Continuing  along  Pleasant  St.  we  pass 
Morris  St.,  on  which  lies  Dalhousie  College,  already  mentioned ;  the 
Exhibition  Building,  the  Institution  for  the  Blind,  and  the  plain  Church 
or  pro-Cathedral  of  St.  Luke's,  the  see-church  of  the  oldest  AnKli 
can  colonial  bishopric.     Beyond  Morris  St.  we  pass  the  quiet  and  aris- 
tocratic   Waverly   Hotel,  and   the   eminently   successful    Presbyterian 
La.hes'  College.     The  next  cross-street  is  South  St.,  at  the  foot  of 
which  is  the  Roi/al  Engineers^  Yard,  familiarly  known  as  the  Lum- 
ber Yard.     This  is  a  favorite  point  of  departure  for  boating  excur- 
sions and  for  the  races  of  the  Royal  Yacht  Squadron.     If  we  con 
tmue  along  Pleasant  St.,   we    presently  find    ourselves   beyond   the 
houses   and   skirting  the   water-side.     We  are  in  the  beautiful  and 
spacious  resort  of  Point  Pleasant  Park,  with  Its  matchless  carria-e- 
drives,  and  winding  foot-paths,  and  secluded  dells,  and  bits  of  wild 
wood  scenery,  and  broad  sea-views,  and   every  here   and   there   the 
exhilarating   surprise  of  a  strong  fortification  or  an  ambushed  bat- 
tery.     The  park  is  imperiil  property,  but  leased  indefinitely  to  the 
city  at  a  shilling  a  year.     For  a  space  of  one  day  in  each  vear  the 
park  is  clo.sed  to  the  public  to  preserve  the  property  against 'a  claim 
of  right-of-way.     From  the  seaward  point  of  the  park,  wherP  the  bar- 
bor  IS  joined  by  the  'vaters  of  the  Northwest  Arm,  is  commanded  a 
hne   view,  including  the  high  fortifications  of    York  Redoubt     The 
Northwest  Arm  is  a  beautiful  water  about  3  miles  long  and  half  a  mile 
in  width,  the  head  of  which  comes  within  2  mWc^  ot  Bedford  Bmin 


HALIFAX. 


225 


Along  its  eastern  shore  arc  some  of  the  best  private  residences  of 
Halifax.     The  Arm  is  a  dcliglitful  resort  in  summer,  and  is  travert^ed 
by  a  small  steamer^  which  runs  also  to  MacXab's  Island.     Its  waters 
are  navigable  throughout  its  entire  length,  and  afford  some  good  sport 
in  the  way  of  lobster-spearing  and  JBshing  for  pollock  with  the  fly. 
Dalhers  find  its  temperature  rather  low  compared  with  that  of  Bedford 
Basin ;  and  there  is  the  added  disadvantage  of  the  possibility,  some- 
what remote  indeed,  of  a  visit  from  a  small  shark.     At  the  head  of  the 
Arm  is  Melville  Inland,  once  occupied  by  prisoners  of  war,  now  used  as 
a  military  prison..   At  the  mouth  of  the  Arm  is  Pernett's  Island,  and  a 
short  distance  above  it  are  two  immense  iron  rings  fastened  into  the 
rock  on  each  side  of  the  inlet,  from  which  was  slung,  during  the  War  of 
1812,  a  massive  chain  cable  to  bar  the  ingress  of  hostile  ships.     Other 
points  of  interest  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Arm  are  The  Dingle,  noted 
for  its  fairy  loveliness,  and  Dutch  Village,  supposed  to  be  interesting. 
About  3  miles  from  the  Arm  is  a  famous  '^ Rocking. Sione''''  of  granite, 
which  may  be  set  in  motion  by  a  small  lever.     This  peculiar  phenom- 
enon is  on  the  St.  Margaret's  Bay  Road.    It  weighs  something  over  150 
tons,  and  oscillates  on  a  base  of  12  inches  by  6  inches.     Nearer  town, 
on  the  Prospect  Road,  is  a  similar  stone  of  much  smaller  dimensions. 

One  of  the  chief  "  lions  "  of  Halifax  is  situated  where  Spring  Gar- 
don  Road  intersects  with  South  Park  St.  We  refer  to  the  beautiful 
Public  Gardens,  perhaps  the  finest  in  Canada  or  the  Northern 
States.  The  grounds  cover  18  acres,  and  are  most  tastefully  laid  out 
and  adorned,  besides  being  endowed  with  great  natural  beauty  to  begin 
with.  On  the  picturesque  waters  of  the  pond  are  interesting  water- 
fowl,  including  black  and  white  swans.  On  Saturday  afternoons  a  mili- 
tary  band  plays  from  four  till  six ;  and  on  summer  evenings  concerts 
are  often  given,  when  the  grounds  are  brilliantly  illuminated.  At  the 
western  end  are  tenni.s-courts.  In  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the 
Gardens  are  Camp  Hill  Cemetery,  the  Convent  of  the  Sacrod  Heart,  the 
grounds  of  the  Wanderers'  Athletic  Association,  Dalhousie  College, 
already  mentioned,  the  vast  new  pile  of  the  Poor-House,  the  Victoria 
General  Hospital,  and  the  pretty  little  church  known  as  Bishop's 
Chapel,  near  which  has  been  laid  the  corner-stone  for  the  proposed 
Anglican  Cathedral.  Among  the  many  other  churches  of  the  city,  the 
most  interesting  are,  perhaps,  the  curious  circular  structure  of  St. 
George's  (Ang.)  on  Brunswick  St.,  the  handsome  Fort  Massoy  Church 

(Presb.)  on  Tohin  St.,  the  spacious  new  brick  structure  of  St.  Patrick's 
15 


22t) 


HALIFAX. 


(R.  C.)  on  Brunswick  St.,  the  pretty  Methodist  Church  on  Grafton  St., 
the  quaint  little  Dutch  Church  far  up  Brunswick  St.,  built  for  the 
German  immigrants  in  1701,  and  the  almost  equally  unpretentious 
Garrison  Chapel  on  Brunswick  St.,  just  below  the  Citadel.  The  serv- 
ices  at  Garrison  Chapel  are  interesting  to  visitors  on  account  of  the 
impressive  milit-ry  display  which  accompanies  them.  Among  other 
points  of  interest  are  the  Great  Grain  Elevator  up  Water  St.  and  the 
Cotton  Mills  on  Kempt  Koad.  On  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays,  in  the 
early  morning,  the  traveler  should  make  a  special  point  of  visiting  the 
Green  Market,  where  the  country  folk,  ignoring  the  stalls  of  the  com- 
fortable brick  Market-House,  sell  their  goods  on  the  broad  side- 
walks surrounding  the  Post-Office.  The  characteristic  scene  is  thus 
described  by  the  Rev.  R.  Murray : 

There  are  Dutch  women  from  along  the  eastern  shore  with  their 
baskets  of  green  crops,  which  have  been  nourished  on  the  purest  ozone 
and  the  richest  sea-kelp.     There  are  the  Blue-nose  women,  broad  and 
high-colored,  fearless  alike  of  wind  and  weather,  as  they  drive  their 
loaded  teams  by  night,  over  rough  and  lonelv  roads,  to  reach  the  ear- 
liest  Dartmouth  ferry-boat.     They  oflFer,  with  "a  friendly  smile  on  their 
weather-beaten  ^jgages,  primrose  butter,  perdu  under  cool  cabbage- 
leaves,  and  pearly  eggs,  food  for  the  gods.      There  are  lank-limbed 
countrymen,  clad  in  gray  homespun,  standing  beside  their  loads  of 
vegetables  or  salt-marsh  hay;  not  keen  and  shrewd-eyed,  like  New 
England  farmers,  but  bashfully  courteous  of   speech,  with  the  soft 
lisp  of   German  fatherland   on   their  tongues   or   the   burr  of  their 
Scottish   ancestry.      Here  are   a  pair  of  Frenchwomen  with  baskets 
of  knitted  goods  on  their  arms.     Contrast  the  withered  and  yellow 
grandame,  her  grizzled  hair  bulging  in  a  roll  above  her  bushy  eve- 
brows,  her  claw-like  hands  plying  her  knitting-wires,  with  the'  fresh 
young  girl   by   her   side,  whose  arch  black   eyes  sparkle   from   out 
of  her  smooth  olive  face,  and  her  white  teeth  display  themselves  in 
full   force   as  we  finger  the  huge  mittens  in  her  basket.      Old  and 
young  are  habited  alike,  in  blue  or  black  handkerchiefs  tightly  knotted 
under  the  chin,  loose  blue  jackets  with  naj)kin-shawls  folded  over 
them,  and  short  woolen  skirts.     Scores  of  them  have  been  on  the  road 
all  night,  trotting  the  26  miles  from  Chezzetcook  on  foot,  their  fingers 
busily  plying  the  knitting-needles  all  the  way.     There  squats  a  negro 
matron  on  the  pavement,  her  clouted  feet  stretched  before  her  in  utter 
disresard  of  passers-by,  a  short  black  pipe  between  her  pendulous  lips 
Her  layers  of  rags  clothe  her  like  the  fungi  of  a  dead  tree ;  her  padded 
hood  is  fashioned  to  fulfill  the  office  of  a  saddle  for  her  load.     She  has 
luscious  wild  strawberries  in  little  birch-barks,  which  she  otters  you  in 
an  unctuous  fahelto,  stuffing  her  pipe  into  her  bosom,  the  better  to 
overhaul  her  store  for  a  fresh  one.     You  pause  in  your  bargain,  won- 
dering nhcther  her  teeth  hulled  the  tempting  fruit ! 


HALIFAX.  227 

The  "  noble  red  raan  "  and  his  squaw  also  attend  market.  There 
they  stand,  a  degenerate  pair,  clad  in  the  cast-off  clothes  of  the  white 
man,  their  merchandise  consisting  of  flag  and  willow  baskets  "ayly 
dyed,  and  an  occasional  porcupine-quill  box.  The  squaw  is  premature- 
ly aged.  Her  broad,  copper-colored  face  is  inconceivably  wrinkled  • 
her  eyes,  from  their  ambush  of  folds,  peer  forth  with  a  snaky  gleam.' 
The  brave,"  propped  up  against  the  Post-Office  wall,  dozes  with  his 
bunch  of  rabbits  (in  their  season)  dangling  in  his  hand,  and,  workin" 
his  jaws  mechanically  on  his  quid,  dreams  of— rum.  A  bronze-tinted 
papoose  is  strapped  under  a  filthy  basket  at  the  mother's  back,  and  its 
impassive  little  face  surveys  life  over  her  shoulder  with  a  perfect  phi- 
losophy. This  trio  has  drifted  from  one  of  the  wigwam-hamlets  near 
Dartmouth,  and  thither  they  will  return  when  their  wares  are  disposed 
of,  if  they  do  not  fall  victims  to  rum  and  the  station-house. 

The  town  of  Dartmouth,  population  between  ■i,000  and  5,000,  is 
reached  by  ferry  from  the  foot  of  George  St.,  or  by  a  railway  which 
crosses  the  harbor  at  the  Narrows.     The  town  contains  some  fine  pri- 
vate residences,  whose  owners  do  business  in  Halifax.    The  chief  points 
of  interest  at  Dartmouth  are  Fort  Clarence,     'ready  mentioned,  the 
Sugar  Refinery,  and  the  imposing  gray-stone       ^  granite  structure  of 
the  Mount  Hope  Lunatic  Asylum.    Fort  Clarence  guards  what  is  known 
as  the  "  Eastern  Passage,"  which  was  supposed  to  be  impassable  for 
large  ships  till  the  occasion  on  which  the  Confederate  cruiser  Talla- 
hassee made  her  escape  by  it.     The  Confederate  ship  was  blockaded 
in  Halifax  harbor  by  an  American  squadron ;  which,  however,  paid  no 
attention  to  the  Eastern  Passage,  supposing  it  unnavigable.     The  Tal- 
lahassee took  advantage  of  a  favoring  wind  and  tide,  and  made  good 
her  escape  by  the  dangerous  channel.     A  few  miles  from  Dartmouth 
are  the  Montague  Gold  Mines,  the  pleasant  summer  resort  of  Cow  Bay, 
with  its  surf-bathing,  and  the  pretty  chain  of  the  Dartmouth  Lakes! 
Dartmouth  has  some  important  manufacturing  interests,  among  them 
a  famous  skate-factory  and  a  rope-walk. 

From  Halifax  as  a  starting-point  the  traveler  has  many  pleasant 
side  trips  at  his  command.  He  may  go  by  boat  eastward  to  Canso  and 
Cape  Breton  and  the  west  coast  of  Newfoundland ;  to  Si.  John's, 
.Vewfoundland,  and  St.  Pierre ;  westward  along  the  Atlantic  coast  to 
Yarmouth  and  intermediate  ports  by  boat  or  stage,  or  up  the  Annapo- 
lis Valley  as  far  as  may  be  desired.  If  tJ-  t.-avcler  intends  going  to 
Boston  via  Yarmouth,  Annapolis,  or  St.  Jolrn,  he  will  "  do  "  the  An- 
napolis Valley  and  "  Land  of  Evangeline  "  en  route.  If,  however  he 
intends  taking  the  steamer  Halifax  at  Halifax,  for  Boston,  he  will  do  well 


'fl 


n 


i 


?f 


^ 


228 


HALIFAX. 


to  make  a  round  trip  down  the  Atlantic  coast  of  the  peninsula,  by  steam- 
ers Bridyewatcr  or  City  of  St.  John,  or  by  stage,  through  Margaret's  Bay, 
Cliester,  Mahone  Hay,  and  Lunenburg  to  Hridgcwator,  thence  by  the 
admirable  new  cars  of  the  Nova  Scotia  Central  R.  R.  across  the  prov- 
ince to  Middleton  on  liie  Windsor  and  Annapolis  R.  R.,  and  thence  by 
the  Dominion  Atlantic  Ry.  througli  the  regions  immortalized  by  Long- 
fellow, through  W'olfriUc  and  Windsor,  back  to  Halifax.  This  is  in 
every  way  a  most  enjoyable  trip,  with  many  points  of  interest  along 
the  journey.  A  more  extended  and  diversified  round  trip  may  be 
taken  by  continuing  down  the  coast  from  Bridgewater  to  Yarmouth, 
thence  back  to  Halifax  by  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Ry.,  or  from  Digby 
to  St.  John  by  Bay  of  Fundy  S.  S.  Company.  The  places  on  the  Do- 
minion Atlantic  Ry.  and  the  Nova  Scotia  Central  will  be  referred  to 
later  in  connection  with  the  trip  to  Annapolis  and  beyond ;  and  the 
places  between  Halifax  and  Bridgvwaler  in  our  account  oi  the  voyage 
down  the  Atlantic  coast. 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 

To  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  one  may  go  by  the  steamers  of  the 
Allan  Line  or  Red  Cross  Line.  The  time  occupied  in  the  passage  is 
about  48  hours.  The  Allan  steamers  sail  for  Liverpool  fortnightly, 
beginning  this  year  (1891)  on  May  11th.  Cabin  passage  from  Halifax 
to  St.  John's  is  $20 ;  round  trip,  $40.  The  steamer  Portia,  of  the  Red 
Cross  Line,  plying  between  New  York,  Halifax,  and  St.  John's,  makes 
fortnightly  sailings,  and  charges  $18  between  Halifax  and  St.  John's; 
$34  for  the  round  trip.  To  St.  Pierre  one  may  go  from  Halifax  by  the 
steamship  Si.  Pierre,  of  the  Anglo-French  S.  S.  Co.,  sailing  every 
alternate  Wednesday,  or  by  the  coastal  steamer  from  St.  John's.  The 
fare  from  Halifax  ii*  $15,  for  the  round  trip  $25,  which  includes  meals 
and  berth ;  the  fare  from  St.  John's  is  from  $(5  to  $7. 

The  Island  of  Newfoundland,  dubbed  "  England's  oldest  col- 
ony," is  a  self-governing  province  not  connected  with  the  Canadian 
Confederation.  It  forms  the  eastern  wall,  as  it  were,  of  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence ;  is  419  miles  long  by  300  in  extreme  breadth ;  and  owing 
to  its  numerous  bays  it  has  an  enormous  extent  of  coast-line.  Its  fish- 
eries are  perhaps  the  richest  and  most  famous  in  the  world ;  its  sealing 
industry  is  vast  and  picturesquely  perilous  ;  its  climate  is  almost  as 
harsh  and  forbidding  as  its  coasts,  but  there  are  sections  very  favor- 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


229 


able  to  agriculture  ;  Its  lakes  and  rivers  swarm  with  game-fish,  its  wil- 
dernesses  with  deer  and  wild-fowl ;  like  Ireland,  it  has  no  snake  or 
venomous  reptile;  its  mineral  wealth,  hard.'y  at  all  developed,  consists 
of  silver,  copper,  lead,  iron,  plumbago,  manganese,  coal,  gypsum,  etc. ; 
its  Indians,  the  strange  Beothucs,  have  gone  into  that  limbo  whither 
the  dodo  and  the  great  auk  preceded  them  ;  the  va.-t  interior  is  in  great 
part  unexplored,  and  is  as  full  of  mystery  as  the  colonial  politics. 

The  hutory  of  XcwfoiiwUand  begins   with  the  Norsemen  in  the 
tenth  century.     Its  fishing  waters  were  frequented  by  Xorman  Breton 
and  Basque  fishermen  during  the  fourteenth  century,     it  was  visited 
by  John  Cabot  in  1497,  by  the  Portuguese  explorers  Cortereal  and 
Verazzano  in  ISOl  and  1524  respectively,  and  by  Cartier  in  1534.     In 
1 583  it  was  taken  possession  of  in  the  name  of  England  by  Sir  Hum- 
phrey Gilbert,  and  settlements  were   speedily  established  along   the 
coast.     About  the  end  of  the  seventeenth   century  and  in  the"early 
part  of  the  eighteenth  the  south  and  east  coasts  were  the  scene  of 
fierce  struggles  between  the  Frencli  and  English.     By  the  Treaty  of 
Utrecht,  signed  in  1713,  the  French,   while  relinquishing  all   claim 
to  the  island,  were  secured  in  the   possession  of  the  rocky   islets  of 
St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon,  and  of  certain  fishing  privileges  along  the 
west  coast.     The  provisions  relating  to  these  privileges  were  very  stu- 
pidly drawn  up  by  the   British  commissioners,  whence  arises  in  the 
present  day  no  end  of  difficulty  and  disagreeableness.     The  island  was 
formed  into  a  province  in  1728.     In  1761  and  1796  the  French  made 
vigorous  efforts  to  conquer  it.     In  1632  was  convened  the  first  Legis- 
lative Assembly.    By  a  census  taken  in  1884  the  population  was  placed 
at  193,121.     Now,  in  1891,  in  quarrels  with  England  and  France  and 
Canada,  the  ancient  colony  is  endeavoring  to  manufacture  history  at 
short  notice.     Her  position  as  gate-keeper  to  the  St.  Lawrence  makes 
it  forever  impossible  that  she  should  be  permitted  by  England  to'  be- 
come a  member  of  the  American  Union. 

St.  John's. 

The  city  of  St.  John's,  the  capital  of  Newfoundland,  is  on  the  extreme 
eastern  coast  of  the  peninsula  of  Avalon.  It  is  nearer  Europe  than  any 
other  port  of  North  America.  It  is  1,076  miles  from  Montreal,  and  1,730 
miles  from  Cork.  The  approach  from  the  sea  is  very  impressive.  The 
deep,  secure  harbor  is  gained  by  a  strongly  fortified  passage  called  the 
Narrows,  where  the  lofty  sea-wall  of  the  island  is  rent  asund°er.    The  city 


■■•« 


k 


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\\  •jp-i 
I  i-'Kl 


230 


8T.    JOHN  8. 


is  built  chiefly  of  wood,  and  is  striking  mainly  from  irs  situation.    Small 
as  the  houses  are,  and  dingy  as  are  the  streets,  the  city  contains  great 
wealth.     The  chief  hotels  are  the  New  Jthndc,  a  house   equipped 
with  all  modern  conveniences,  and  the  Unio7i,  on  Water  St.     Livery 
charges  are  very  moderate,  and  carriages  may  be  hired  at  about  80 
cents  an  hour.      The  population  of  St.  John's,  according  to  the  last 
census,  is  81,142.     The  chief  trade  is  in  fish  and  fish  products,  and  in 
seal-oil,  for  the  refining  of  which  there  are  several  establishments; 
but  the  merchants  of  the  city  do  also  a  heavy  local  trade  in  supplyin*^ 
the  "  out-harbors,"  as  the  other  towns  of  the  island  are  styled.     The 
city  has  tanneries,  breweries,  biscuit,  shoe,  and  furniture  factories.     It 
also  has  one  of  the  best  graving-docks  in  America.     At  times,  on  the 
arrival  of  the  sealing  steamers,  there  is  stir  enough  in  the  streets  of 
St,  John's  to  satisfy  the  demands  of  a  more  metropolitan  center,  and 
the  wits  and  sticks  of  the  police  are  sometimes  taxed  to  keep  order. 
For  about  a  month  in  each  summer  the  city  is  thronged  to  overflowing 
with  people  from  the  north  and  west  coasts,  selling  their  produce  and 
laying  in  provisions  for  the  winter.    The  main  business  artery  is  Water 
St.,  occupied  by  the  wholesale  supply-stores  of  the  merchant  princes 
of  St.  John's,  and  by  a  libera)  sprinkling  of  grog-shops  and  cheap  eat- 
ing-houses.    Water  St.  is  unpretentiously  but  massively  built.     On  its 
northern  portion  stands  the  Custora-House.     The  Market-House  and 
Post  Office  occupy  a  commodious  building  about  its  center,  and  at  its 
south  end  are  the  bridge  and  causeway  which  cross  the  head  of  the 
harbor.     The  most  important  structure  in  the  colony  is  the  great  Ho- 
tnan  Catholic  Cathedra/,  crowning  the  ridge  which  overlooks  the  city 
and  the  harbor.     The  Cathedral,  with  the  Bishop's  Palace,  Convent, 
and  St.  Bonaventure's  College,  which  cluster  about  it,  cost  $500,000. 
The  Cathedral  itself  is  a  vast  pile,  built  of  stone,  much  of  which  was 
brought  over  fiom  Ireland.     It  has  twin  towers,  an  immensely  long 
cloister,  and  no  aisles.     In  the  grounds  before  it  stand  a  number  of 
statues,  among  them  one  of  St.  Peter.     The  Irish  Catholics  form  a 
great  majority  of  the  citizens  of  St.  John's. 

About  half-way  up  the  slope  stands  the  not  yet  completed  Cathedral 
of  the  Chvrch  of  England.  When  finished  this  will  be  a  very  beautiful 
Gothic  structure.  It  was  designed  by  the  great  English  architect.  Sir 
Gilbert  Scott,  and  its  completion  is  delayed  by  lack  of  funds.  On 
what  is  called  the  ^Military  Road,  running  along  the  high  ridge  occupied 
by  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  stand  the  old  Barracks,  and  also  the 


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ST.    JOHN  8, 


281 


Parlinmmt  Building,  a  massive  stone  structure,  with  a  really  fine  Doric 
portico.  North  of  the  Parliament  House  is  Government  Home,  occupy- 
ing pretty  and  well-kept  grounds.  The  other  important  public  build- 
ings  are  the  penitentiary,  hospital,  Athentcum  Building,  educational 
institutions,  and  poorhouse.  The  city  rejoices  in  a  rickety  suburb  with 
the  euphonious  appellation  of  Maggotty  Cove,  through  which  we  pass 
to  climb  to  the  vantage-ground  cf  SiRiial  Hill.  On  Signal  Hill  \» 
the  Observaton/,  from  which,  and  from  many  another  point  of  vantage 
on  the  edge  of  precipitous  steeps,  we  look  down  upon  the  city  and 
the  harbor  in  their  windless  amphitheatre.  The  crest  of  the  hill  is 
clothed  with  soft,  fine  grasses.  Amid  them  lies  a  deep  lake  360  ft. 
above  the  sea.  Passing  the  great  stone  barracks  we  come  at  length 
to  a  little  battery,  perched  on  the  edge  of  a  cliff  500  ft.  high,  from 
which  we  look  down  directly  into  the  Narrows,  thronged  with  the  sails 
of  its  fishing  fleets.  Immediately  below  is  the  place  where,  in  war- 
time,  the  harbor  is  closed  by  great  chains  swung  from  shore  to  shore. 

As  Paris  is  called  the  gayest  of  capitals,  St.  John's  has  been 
characterized  by  Warburton  as  the  fishiest.  "  Round  a  great  part  of 
the  harbor  are  sheds,  acres  in  extent,  roofed  with  cod  split  in  half, 
laid  on  like  slates,  drying  in  the  sun,  or  rather  the  air,  for  there  is  not 
much  of  the  former  to  depend  upon."  These  curious  structures,  which 
Mr.  Warburton  called  sheds,  are  known  to  Newfoundlanders  as  "  flakes," 
and  are  a  prominent  feature  of  the  landscape  of  every  settlement,  con- 
veying a  characteristic  odor  to  the  breezes.  This  is  a  grievance  to 
which  one  readily  gets  accustomed.  In  the  course  of  her  cai  oer  New- 
foundland's capital  has  suffered  severely  from  fires,  notably  in  1816 
and  1817.  In  1860  St.  John's  was  the  scene  of  a  ferocious  riot,  when 
a  mob  of  Irish  Catholics  took  possession  of  the  town  and  began  pillag- 
ing the  stores.  The  Boyal  Newfoundland  Companies  were  ordered  out 
and  posted  before  the  JIarkct-IIouse,  where  they  stood  for  hours  mak- 
ing no  reply  to  the  taunts  of  the  rioters.  As  night  fell,  however,  they 
were  fired  upon  by  the  mob ;  whereupon  they  responded  with  a  de- 
structive volley.  At  this  juncture  the  bells  of  the  cathedral  sounded  an 
imperious  summons  to  the  rioters,  who  flocked  thither,  and  were  ordered 
by  the  bishop,  on  pain  of  excommunication,  to  keep  the  peace.  Since 
then,  and  up  :.o  the  very  latest  days,  there  have  been  other  almost 
equally  discreditable  disturbances  in  the  island,  arising  out  of  religious 
disagreements. 


TRII'H    FliOM   ST.   JoiinV. 


Trips  from  St.  John's. 

i\Ja,no!  T"  ^;[;""'-""''«  '^'^  ^"«'->*  ^ '"'ony  iH  very  n.uch  behind 
the  thne  .     Her  HottU-monts  are  a  mere  fringe  abont  the  coant,  and 
c«nnnun.oat.on  is  carried  on,  for  the  nu>.t  part,  with  picturesqne  i. 
.esulanty.  by  nutans  of  eoasting-vosseln.     A  railroad  run.s  f.om   St. 
JohnH  around    ConrrpHon  /?.,/  to  IM,roo,i,  and  /larf.or   Grace  (85 
m.  ts).     It  ,H  be.ng  continued  up  the  cast  coast  to  the  town  of  THnitu 
and  on  to  the  coppcr-n.ining  diHtrict.H  of  Jlall  Bn,>.    The  experiencoH  of 
the  engmeers  .n  locating  this  railroad  were  thrilling  enough  to  have 
occurrci  .n  Central  Africa.     They  were  attacked  at  thnes  by  n.en  with 
8hot-gunH  ami  women  with  pitchforks,  who  dreaded  lest  their  labors 
should  .-esult  .n  an  inerease  of  taxation.     The  train  leaves  St.  John's 
about   10  A.M.,  and  reaches  Ilarbar  Grace  at  8.45  p.m.  (fare,  $2  T.o) 
Ihere  is  son.e  talk  of  a  railroad  across  Newfoundland  to  St.  OeorJ, 
Ban  which  would  open  up  the  island  to  modern  influences 

Around  St.  John's  there  a.e  some  very  beautiful  and  striking  drives 
over  hrm  and  well-kept  roads.     One  of  the  most  charming  of  these 
by  way  of  the  lovely  little  QuUkhj-Vidd,  Lake  and  Bally  llaly  Bo-^  to 
he  deep,  wooded  lake  of  Virginia  Water,  where  was  once  the  summer 
esulence  of  Newfoundland's  (Governors.     The  drive  mav  well  be  Z 
tended  over  the  high  and  moss-grown  reaches  of  the -Barrens  "  to 
Logie  Bay  and  Torbay,  whore  one  gets  a  good  idea  of  the  Newfound- 
land  coast  scenery.     This  scenery  is  characterized  by  an  ahnost  total 
riTT,  '^'^'•'^f  ^^'  '^'  «''«^«^  ^"»«i«ting  of  lofty  cliffs,  about  whose 
bases  thunder  the  ndghtiest  surges  of  the  Atlantic.     E;ery  here  and 
there  th.s  forbidding  wall  is  broken  by  a  little  opening  called  a  <  cove  ' 
usually  deep  enough  to  serve  as  a  haven  for  the  fishing-boats.     At  the 

book     n  ,  ,  ''''  T""  '"'"'"""  '"  ^'"^  *^^  ^'^''ghts  a  brown  trout- 
brook  and  here  gathers  a  cluster  of  fishermen's  cottages,  in  an  ideal 

^cusmn.     Another  lovely  drive  is  to  the  wildly  romli^  scene.,  of 

^unrlotT'  ".     r'"'""  "'^^-     ^*  *'"^  P«''"*  ''  ^  comfortable 
count,>  hotel,  pa.t  whose  window.s  roars  and  flashes  a  white  cascade 

If  one  ,s  fond  of  coaching,  he  may  go  by  stage  over  n.atchlcss  roads 

through  the  sweet  pa.^oral  scenes  of  what  is  called  the  Strait  Shore 

it     T  '"        ''"'^'"  "'  ^'^'^'^^^'^^  ^^  '""«^)'  ^'^^  -hieh  is  Cape 
Speai    the  most  easterK  r>uii.t  of  North  America;  Petty  Harbor  f  10 


miles),  near  which  is 


1  'Sv 


'Uj 


phenomenon  called  the  "  Spout,"  a 


The  Monthly  Mail  Train  from  tLdl's  Bay  to  Vodroy. 


TRIPS  PROM  ST.  John's. 


oP» 


hole  m  the  vaulted  roof  of  a  deep  sca-cavcrn,  through  which,  durinR 
stonn  and  high  tides,  the  water  is  hurled  in  a  huge  fountain  visible  for 
m.lcs  about;  Bay  Bulls  (19  miles).  Witless  Boy  (22  miles),  Mobile  (24 
miles).  Toad  Cove  (26  miles),  La  Manche  (32  n.i]^),  Brigus  (34  miles) 
Cape  Broylo  (38  miles),  with  fine  salmon-fishing  in  the-  river  that  flows 
around  th.  foot  of  Hell  Ilill,  Caplin  Cove  (4  >  miles) ;  the  important 
little  town  of  F<,-ryland  (44  miles),  where,  in  J  687,  Sir  David  Kirk 
established  himself  when  he  was  appointed  Count  Palatine  of  New- 
fo.mdland;  A«iuafort  (48  miles),  Fermeuse  (51   miles),  Kenewse  (54 
miles),  and  the  deadly  ship-wrecking  headland  of  Cape   Race    the 
southeast  point  of  Newfoundland  (64  miles).     About  60  miles  off  Cape 
Race  are  the  famous  Grand  Banks  of  Newfoundland,  almost  as  noted 
for  their  naval  battles  as  for  their  cod-fisheries.     On  the  Crand  Banks 
in  1755,  the  French  men-of-war  Alcide  and  Lys  were  captured,  after  a 
turious  battle  of  five  hours,  b>  the  British  frigates  Dunkirk  and  De- 
fiance.    In  the  same  neighborhood,  on  August  19,  1812,  took  place  the 
famous  battle  between  the  American  frigate  Constitution,  of  44  gurs 
and  the  British  frigate  Guerritire,  38  guns,  which  resulted  in  an  over- 
whelming victory  for  the  American  ship.    The  Banks  extend  four  degrees 
north  and  south  and  five  degrees  east  and  west.     They  consist  of  vast 
submerged  sand-banks,  strewn  with  sea-shells,  lying  in  water  from  30 
to  60  fathoms  deep.     Here,  from  February  to  November,  feed  the  cod 
m  innumerable  swarms,  and  the  fisheries  give  employment  to  over  100  - 
000  men  of  all  nations.     "  Throughout  a  great  part  of  the  spring,  sum'- 
mer,  and  fall,  the  Grand  Banks  are  covered  by  rarely  broken  fo-s 
through  which  falls  an  almost  incessant  slow  rain.     Sonietimes  the^se 
fogs  are  so  dense  that  objects  within  60  ft.  arc  totallv  invisible,  at 
which  times  the  fishing-vessels  at  anchor  are  liable  to  be'  run  down  by 
the  great  Atlantic  steamers.      The  dangerous  proximity  of  icebergs 
(which  drift  across  and  ground  on  the  Banks)  is  indicated  by  the  sud- 
den and  intense  coldness  which  thoy  send  through  even  a  midsummer 
day,  by  the  peculiar  white  glare  in  the  air  about  them,  and  by  the  roar- 
ing of  the  breakers  on  their  sides." 

The  tourist  who  wishes  to  visit  the  A.  E.  coml  of  Newfoundland 
and  the  shores  of  Labrador,  will  need  to  allow  himself  a  clear  month 
for  the  trip,  and  should  select  the  midsummer  season.  As  Newfound- 
land  is  not  a  portion  of  Canada,  this  hand-book  will  do  little  more 
t.ian  mdiciUo  routes,  etc.  The  steamers  of  the  northern  coastal  line 
leave  St.  John  every  alternate  Monday  during  the  summer,  and   in- 


2U 


TRIPS   FROM   ST.    JOHn's. 


tending  passengers  should  communicate  with  the  agents,  Messrs.  Bow- 
ring  Bros.,  at  St.  John's,  Newfoundland.  The  fare  to  the  town  of  Trin- 
ity  is  $5,  and  to  Bett's  Cove  or  Nipper's  Cove,  where  the  Labrador 
steamer  is  taken,  about  $10.  On  the  Labrador  boats  the  charge,  in- 
cluding meals  and  staterooms,  is  $2  per  day.  The  fare  is  very ''plain, 
but  the  steamers  are  strong  and  seaworthy.  Labrador  is  an  intensely 
interesting  country  to  explore,  but  not  of  much  interest  to  the  traveler, 
who  merely  takes  a  hasty  look  at  its  grim  shores  and  passes  on.  It  is 
hardly  worth  visiting  unless  one  intends  to  do  it  thoroughly.  Then, 
it  has  marvelous  and  almost  virgin  trout-and-salmon  fishing  to  offeri 
and  strange  landscapes,  and  wonderful  cataracts,  and  all  the  charm 
of  the  mysterious  unknown. 


Along  the  Coast. 

The  steamers  of  the  Newfoundland  Coastal  Steamship  Co.  maintain 
a  regular  fortnightly  service  between  St.  John's  and  the  northern  out- 

Cle  HtrouVll''""^'  ^'■'''  '"^  ^^^"^'  ^'-''-^  *«  ^'''  ^«-'  ^«5  *- 

From  St.  John's  the  steamer  rounds  Cape  St.  Francis,  and  stops  oflP 
the  shelterless  roadstead  of  Bay  Verd,  an  important  fishing  village 
Then  it  crosses  the  mouth  of  Trinity  Bay,  and  enters  the  magnificent 
harbor  of  Trinity,  one  of  the  best  on  the  American  coast.     Trinity 
has  something  less  than  2,000  inhabitants,  and  is  an  important  center 
and  county  town.     It  lies  115  miles  from  St.  John's.     Some  farming  is 
carried  on  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  town;  and  opposite,  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  bay,  lies  a  seaport  with  the  exquisite  name  of  "  Heart's  Con- 
tent."    The  next  stopping-place  beyond  Trinity  is  Catalina,  with  a  pop- 
ulation of  about   1,500,  situated   on  a  secure  harbor  noted  for  its 
peculiar  tidal  phenomena.     The  next  call  is  at  the  ancient  town  of 
Bona  vista,  with  nearly  3,000  inhabitants,  on  Bonavista  Bay.     The 
harbor  is  dangerously  exposed  to  nor'west  winds,  but  the  town  has  a 
growing  commerce.     It  lies  146  miles  from  St.  John's.     Bonavista  Bay 
is  3-7  miles  across  the  mouth  from  Cape  Bonavista  to  Cape  Freels,  and 
its  indented  shores  are  set  with  many  fishing  hamlets.     On   the   N. 
shore  is  the  important  harbor  and  village  of  Greempond,  on  a  small 
island  so  barren  that  soil  for  the  village  gardens  had  to  be  brought  in 
boats  from  the  mainland.     After  rounding  Cape  Freels  the  steamer 
sails  N.  W.  across  the  many-islanded  water  called  Hamilton  Sound. 
The  next  stoppage  is  at  the  town  of  Foyo.  on  Fogo  Island,  216  miles 


JO 


0^ 


':  :.'*|1 

h 
1 

^^I^Hi 

i^ 


TRIPS   FROM   ST.    J0HN*8. 


236 


from  St.  John's.    On  Fogo  Island  are  outlying  settlements  with  such 
curious  names  as  "Joe  Batt's  Arm,"  " Seldom-come-by,"  and  "Little 
Seldom-come-by."    Leaving  Fogo,  the  steamer  enters  a  very  wilderness 
of  picturesque  islands,  and  stops  at  the  important  town  of  TwilUngate, 
the  capital  of  the  northern  division  of  Newfoundland.    The  town  has 
about  3,000  inhabitants.     It  is  built  on  two  islands,  connected  by  a 
bridge.     The  neighborhood  is  famous  for  producing  the  choicest  speci- 
mens of  the  Newfoundland  dog,  jet  black  with  a  white  cross  on  the 
bieast,  now  rare  and  costly.     Fourteen  miles  from  Twillingate  is  the 
Iirge  fishing  village  of  Exploits,  with  about  600  inhabitants.     Near  by 
is  the  mouth  of  the  great  Exploits  River,  navigable  in  large  por  Jons  of 
its  course.     It  runs  through   a   low  and    well-wooded   country.     The 
Grand  Falls  of  the  Exploits  are  145  feet  in  height.     Its  length  is  about 
150  miles.    Thence  the  steamer  crosses  the  broad  bay  of  Notre  Dame 
to  the  famous  mining  village  of  Tilt  Cove,  on  the  border  of  a  lovely 
lake.     The  village  has  about  800  inhabitants,  nearly  all  miners.     The 
mines  are  of  copper  and  nickel,  exceedingly  rich;  and  an  excellent 
quality  of  marble  is  found  in  the  neighborhood.     Bett's  Cove  is  an- 
other important  mining  center,  and  indeed  all  the  country  about  Notre 
Dame  Bay  abounds  in  mineral  wealth,  and  its  population  has  been 
growing  rapidly  of  late  years.     A  highway   lea.ls   across   the   island 
through  coal  areas  and  good  farming  lands  to  the  Bay  of  Islands  on 
the  W.  shore,  and  the  projected  railway  to  the  southward  will  do 
much  to  develop  this  region.     Here  the  coastal  steamer  turns  back  for 
St.  John's,  and  travelers  who  are  going  farther  N.  take  the  sturdy 
Labrador  boat. 

Conception  Bay  and  the  South  Coast. 

The  traveler  who  has  come  as  far  as  St.  John's  should  certainly  take 
the  railroad  around  Conception  Bay.  The  first  station  is  the  watering- 
place  of  Topsail,  12  miles  from  S^  John's.  Then  come  Manuels  (14 
miles);  Killigrews  (18  miles);  Seal  Cove  (24  miles);  Holyrood,  with 
a  population  of  400  (28  miles);  Harbor  Main,  at  the  head  of  Concep- 
tion Bay,  Salmon  Cove,  and  Brigus  Junction  (42  miles),  whence  we 
diverge  to  Brigus,  a  picturesque  town  on  a  lake  between  two  hills. 
Brigus  has  about  2,000  inhabitants  and  an  immense  fishing  fleet.  A 
magnificent  view  is  commanded  from  the  summit  of  Thumb  Peak,  600 
ft.  high,  or  from  the  bold  headland  of  Rrif^ua  Lnokfit  ^t„+  f„.,  p„„^ 
Brigus  is  the  fishing  village  of  Bay  Roberts,  most  of  whose  male  in- 


236 


TRIPS   FROM   ST.    JOHn's. 


habitants  spend  their  summers  fishing  on  the  Labrador  coast.     Ten 
miles   from   Brigus   Junction   is   Harbor   Grace   Junction.     Harbor 
Grace  (84  miles  from  St.  John's)  is  the  second  town  of  importance  in 
Newfoundland.     It  has  a  population  of  7,000,  and  is  an  important  trade 
center.     Its  harbor  is  roomy  but  much  exposed  to  the  sea,  except  close 
to  the  city  wharves,  where  a  long  sand-bcach  forms  an  excellent  natural 
breakwater.     The  city  is  mostly  built  of  wood,  and  not  striking  in  ap- 
pearance.    liy  a  fire,  in  1 889,  it  lost  its  finest  edifice,  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic cathedral.    From  Harbor  Grace  a  road  runs  across  the  peninsula  15 
miles  to  the  village  of  Heart's  Content,  already  referred  to,  where  the 
old  Atlantic  cable  has  its  western  terminus.     The  railroad  runs  on  to 
Carbonear,  8  miles  N.  of  Harbor  Grace.     This  is  a  town  of  some- 
thmg  over  2,000  inhabitants,  and  a  great  fishing  center. 

From  Harbor  Grace  Junction  a  railroad  runs  to  the  old  town  of 
Placcntm,  on  Tlacentia  Bay,  84  miles  from  St.  John's.  Placentia  was 
m  old  times  an  important  French  stronghold,  and  successfully  resisted 
many  British  assaults.  When  the  French  claims  were  surrendered  by 
the  Treaty  of  Utrecht,  the  garrison  and  inhabitants  of  Placentia  followed 
the  French  flag  to  Cape  Breton.  Under  British  occupation  an  impor- 
tant town  speedily  arose  at  Placentia,  which  has  of  late  years  gone 
rather  to  decay.  Five  miles  from  Placentia  is  Little  Placentia,  and  12 
miles  farther  X.  are  the  great  lead-mines  of  La  Manche. 

The  S.  coast  of  Newfoundland,  from  Cape  Race  to  Cape  Ray,  may 
be  visited  by  the  steamer  of  the  Newfoundland  Coastal  Steamship  Co" 
which  leaves  St.  John's  on  alternate  Thursdays.     The  chief  points  of 
interest  after  rounding  Cape  Race  are  the  little  town  of  Trepassey,  on 
Trepassey  Harbor;  the  excessively  dangerous  piece  of  coast  between 
Cape  Pine  and  St.  Shot's ;  the  town  of  St.  Mary's,  on  St.  Marv's  Bay 
with  the  large  village  and  splendid  fishing  river  of  SalmonieV,  a  few 
miles  distant;   Placentia,   already  referred  to   (fare,   |4),   and   liurin 
(fare,  |5),  on  the  Burin  Peninsula,  forming  the  western  boundary 
of  Placentia  Bay.    The  harbor  of  Burin  is  perfectly  landlocked  by  cliffs 
200  ft.  in  height,  and  is  the  best  of  all  Newfoundland's  admirable  har- 
bors.    The  town  has  a  large  trade,  and  a  population  of  1,850.     The 
surrounding  scenery  is  magnificently  bold,  and  the  tower  of  Burin  light- 
house is  perched  430  ft.  above  the  sea.  ^ 

From  Burin  the  steamer  sails  to  St  Pierre  (fare,  $6.50),  a  barren 
rock  4  miles  an  ess,  lying  under  the  flag  of  France.  The  town  is  largely 
built  of  stone,  and  is  crowded  together  on  its  harbor  at  the  E.  of 'the 


.1 


C5 


18 


TRIPS    FROM   ST.    JOIIn's. 


237 


inland.  It  is  garrisoned  by  a  company  of  FrencI'  soldiera,  and  is  one 
of  the  mo.st  pe(Miliar  and  thoroughly  individuulizt-d  towns  in  North 
America.  It  is  famous  alike  for  Its  quaintness  and  its  hospitality,  its 
rare  old  brandies  and  ports,  its  ubiquitous  codfish,  and  the  motley 
crowds  of  fishermen-sailors  that  throng  its  narrow  streets.  The  town 
is  the  landing-place  of  two  of  the  transatlantic  cables,  which  add  to  its 
population  a  large  force  of  operators.  The  only  buildings  of  any  jirc- 
tension  are  Government  House  and  the  Roman  Catholic  church  and 
convent.  The  best  inns  are  the  Pemion  Hacala  and  Ho'd  JoinviUe. 
Travelers  who  intend  visiting  St.  Tierrc  should  make  a  point  of  read- 
ing an  illustrated  article  on  St.  Pierre,  by  S.  G.  W.  Benjamin,  in  the 
Century  Magazine  for  June,  1884. 

Beyond  St.  Pierre  lies  the  important  fishing  district  of  Fortune 
Bay,  with  the  settlements  of  Fortune,  Harbor  Briton,  and  Belleorom, 
besides  many  tiny  hamlets  in  the  deep  coves.     Then  come  the  broad 
inlet  of  Hermitage  Bay,  and  the  settlement  of  Ilermitag.'  Cove,  9  miles 
from  Harbor  Briton.     At  the  head  of  the  bay  are  the  rich  salmon- 
waters  of  a  sheltered  inlet  called  the  Bay  of  Despair,  whence  old  Indian 
trails  lead  through  the  wilderness  to  the  Exploits  River  and  the  lakes 
of  the  interior.    From  Hermitage  Bay  westward  to  Cape  Ray  the  coast- 
line  is  almost  straight,  but  fretted  with  innumerable  small  coves.     The 
most  important  settlement  is  Burgeo,  a  village  of  700  inhabitants,  on 
one  of  the  Little  Burgeo  Islands.     On  the  mainland  opposite  are  the 
salmon-fishcric»  of  Grandy's  Brook.     The  next  settlement  is  the  fish- 
ing village  of  La  Poile.     Six  miles  beyond  is  Garia  Bay,  with  several 
villa-"-  on  its  shores;  and  then,  9  miles  farther,  the  busy  little  port  of 
^^^-  Thence  the  steamer  passes  Burnt  Islands,  and  then 

Dead  lb..,  -  ..-,  named  from  their  innumerable  wrecks.  These  islands 
have  beeii  ...  istrious  by  the  heroic  deeds  of  George  Harvey,  who 

dwelt  on  one  o.  them  during  the  early  part  of  the  -century,  and  by  his 
splendid  skill  and  daring  saved  many  hundreds  of  i.  es.  The  houses 
in  all  this  region  seem  largely  built  of  wreckage,  and  furnished  with 
the  si)oils  of  ships. 

The  next  port  of  call  for  the  western  coastal  steamer  is  the  village 
of  Channel,  or  Port  au  Basque,  4  miles  W.  of  the  Dead  Islands.  This 
is  an  important  station  for  the  transfer  of  cablegrams.  It  has  a  popu- 
lation  of  about  700,  and  famous  halibut-fisheries  in  the  vicinity.  On 
every  alternate  trip  the  coastal  steamer  runs  across  the  gulf  to  Sydney, 
Cape  Breton  (fare,  |14).    Around  Cape  Ray,  3  or  4  miles  W.  of 


238 


TSIP8  FROM  PT.  John's. 


I 


Ch«„„,.l  lK.»  the  VMI  .trotch  of  c«a,t  !;„„„„  „»  ,he  We«  or  French 
Shore,  the  »ccM..  of  the  p.o»o„t  un,,k,,«,„„e»«.s  l,ol,ve«„  Franco  and 
^o-vf„„ndla„d.     Owing  .o  ,l,o  n„oe«ai„ties  and  difflouhie,  of  ^v" 

tiR  u.a»  ,  „l,,»o  safe  harbors  are  M-h  separated,  tl.e  region  i,  little 
populated  and  le«»  civilized.     Yet  it  l,a,  groat  natural  rcSourJ   he 
n,o,,  fert,  e  «od  and  fairest  eli,.,»te  in  tl.e  e,dony;  .„d  wl„.„  ,1,  .dim 
c„  .,e,  wlneh  „„„  haras,  it  have  been  broush.  to  .,„,„e  ,ati  f   "v 
»olut,on,  it  will  doubtless  beco„,e  one  of  the  ^..s.  prosperous  p'   1 
of  the  „la„d^    The  ehange  tha,  would  bring  most  in,„, ediale  and  pe" 
manent  beneit  would  be  u„io„  with  the  (Confederation  of  Canada 

The  French  Shore. 

The  Freneh  shore  is  not  likely  to  attract,  for  the  present,  anv  but 
he  n,„st  adventurous  tourists,  and  these  will  not  be  Lubled  1^  1 
a^k  of  sue.  conveniences  as  highways,  hotels,  and  regular  eonnn.fni 
..on     The  region  may  be  visited  by  the  fortnightly  service  of  the 
.Newfoundland  Coastal  Steamship  Co.,  by  the  frcp^cnt  eoastin!  sc  o  „ 
ers,or  by  the  steamer  Ilarlaw,  fron,  Halifax  ani  Cape  lireton  pT," 
The   otal  extent  of  the  French  shore,  from  Cape  Ra„  N.  to  oLZm 
and  down  the  N.  E.  coast  to  Cape  S,.  John,  is  a  dist'  nee  of  Z^t 
Three  mdes  back  from  Cape  Ray  is  the  lofty  TMe  M^nZVn^ 
t.  ,„  hcjgh.  w,.h  the  summits  of  Sugar-Loaf  and  Tolt  Peak      'he 
neighborhood.    Eighteen  miles  N.  of  Cape  Kay  is  Cape  An^uille  and 

Little  Codroy  Rivers,  with  a  scattered  farming  population.  Xorth  of 
oape  Anguille  is  the  great  inlet  called  St.  George's  Bay  runnin  .  50 
miles  inland  (fare  to  Bay  St.  Oeorge,  from  St.  Jo,;,-,,  m).    .4™  "d  Z 

and  Ciabb  s  Brook,  and  some  settlements  of  Micmacs.     There  are  rich 

coal  deposits  in  this  region.    From  the  head  of  the  bav,  wher   Sis  „ 

.eorge's  River   may  be  reached,  by  diffl..„lt  trails,  the  strange  dep 

.;!    K      ,.f'       ■"     '  ™°  ''^  '  '"  "'■'"'■■    '^^""^  «ters  are  rarely 
«een  by  white  men,  and  are  reputed  to  swarm  with  fish,  as  do  Teir 
.hores  with  game.    Toward  the  close  of  last  century  the  re  took  place 
on  Grand  Pond  a  great  battle  between  the  remnants  of  th    B„„thu 
.nd  the  mva,«ng  Mie„i.aes  from  .Vova  .Scotia,  resulting  i„  the  ext  rli 
nation  of  the  Bieo.hucs.    The  northern  gate  of  .St.  Geok-s  BavT,  rpe 


TKIPfl   FROM   8T.    JOIIn's. 


239 


St.  George.     Twenty-five  miles  beyond  is  the  mouth  of  the  vast  harbor 
called  Port  au  Port,  penetrating  the  land  southward  to  within  a  n.ile 
of  St.  George's  Hay.     Next  eomes  the  Bay  of  hlnmh,  famous  for  its 
subhme  scenery.     The  soil  and  climate  here  are  adaj.tcd  to  agriculture 
and  such  minerals  abound  as  marble,  gypsum,  and  limestone.     The 
villages  scattered  about  the  shore  contain,  in  all,  abo.it  2,(.00  inhabit- 
ants.    At  the  head  of  the  bay  flows  in  the  Hiimbn'  River,  150  miles  in 
length,  and  hennned  about  its  mouth   with  towering  cliffs  of  white 
lin.estone.     About  25  n.ilcs  N.  of  the  Bay  of  Islands  is  Bonne  Bay 
renowned  for  its  herring-fisheries  (fare  from  St.  John's,  $15).     For  the 
next  VO  odd  miles  the  coast-line  is  little  broken,  till  we  come  to  the  safe 
anchorages  of  the  Bay  of  Ingrenechoix.     Near  its  northern  bou.idarv 
called  Point  Rieh,  is  the  fishing  village  of  Port  Saunders.     Some  16 
nnles  farther  N.  is  the  beautiful  inlet  of  Bay  St.  John,  at  whose  head 
flows  in  the  almost  unexplored  Castors  River,  abounding  with  sahnon  in 
the  lower  portion  of  its  course.     Then  comes  St.  Margaret's  Bay  with 
the  tiny  hamlets  of  Old  Ferolle  and  New  Fcrolle.     Then,  in  succession 
the  inlets  of  Bay  St.  Genevieve,  Bay  St.  liarbe,  and  Flower  Cove,  with' 
Its  fishing  settlement.     Beyond  are  the  famous  north  shore  sealing 
grounds,  where  the  coast  is  low  and  gras.sy ;  and  presently  we  enter  the 
barren  Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  80  miles  long  by  12  in  width,  thron-ed  with 
seals  and  swept  by  icy  currents,  separating  Newfoundland  from  Labra- 
dor.    The  coasts  and  islands  here  are  of  the  utmost  desolation      At 
times  great  herds  of  ice-bergs  may  be  seen  trailing  slowlv  through  the 
strait.     On  the  desolate  Isle  of  Quirpon  is  a  small  sealing  hamlet "    At 
the  eastern  entrance  to  the  strait  is  the  great  rock,  9  miles  Ion-  by  3 
broad,  called,  in  strange  irony,  Belle  Me.     On  its  wide  circumference 
there  is  but  one  point  where  a  landing  can  be  effected,  and  here  twice 
a  year,  are  put  ashore  the  stores  for  the  lonely  lighthouse-keeper,  who 
has  not  even  a  bush  on  the  whole  island  to  cheer  his  solitude.     He  has 
brought  from  the  mainland  many  boat-loads  of  earth,  endeavorin-  to 
form  a  garden-plot,  but  the  soil  is  speedily  swept  clean  off  by  the  te^rri- 
ble  winds.     It  is  not  surprising  that  these  islands  of  Belle  Isle  and 
Quirpon  were  called,  of  old,  the  Isles  of  the  Demons,  and  were  repre- 
sented in  the  ancient  maps  as  peopled  with  devils  of  various  specie.« 
Ihe  French  explorers  dared  not  land,  save  with  crucifix  in  hand    on 
these  dreadful  shores,  n'here  their  ears  were  assailed  with  the  clamor 
of  demoniac  voices.    It  was  supposed,  moreover,  that  the  isles  were  the 
abode  of  a  malignant  and  terrible  species  of  griftin.     There  may  have 


1    ■  ii 


240 


TRIPfi    FROM    KT.    JOHN  8. 


been  some  niftterial  foundation  for  tlieac  tales,  an,  even  so  late  an  tlio 
rtiminier  of  187:5,  the  coiistd  were  ravaged  by  paeks  of  gigantic  wolvert, 
who  (K'voured  a  number  of  people  and  besieged  the  settlers  in  their 
cabins.  A  romantic  legend  connected  with  these  islands  has  been  made 
the  subject  of  a  poem  called  "  Marguerite,  or  the  Isle  of  Demons,"  by 
Mr.  (loorgc  Martin,  of  Montreal.  On  the  expedition  which  sailed  under 
Roberval,  in  1512,  to  found  a  colony  at  (Quebec,  were  the  Viceroy's 
ni''cc,  the  Lady  Marguerite,  and  a  yoimg  courtier,  her  lover,  whose  suit 
was  forbidden  by  Roberval.  Their  conduct  seems  to  have  enraged  or 
seindalized  the  Viceroy,  for  he  put  his  niece  ashore,  with  her  old 
nurse,  on  the  isle  of  Demons,  now  Quirpcm.  "The  lover  leaped  from 
the  ship  and  joined  the  women,  and  the  fleet  sailed  away.  Then  the 
demons  and  the  hosts  of  hell  began  their  assaults  on  the  forsaken  trio, 
tearing  about  their  Imt  at  night,  menacing  them  on  the  shore,  and 
assaulting  them  in  the  forest.  But  the  penitent  sinners  were  guarded 
by  'nvisible  bands  of  saints,  and  kept  from  peril.  After  many  months, 
wearied  by  these  fiendish  assaults,  the  lover  died,  and  was  soon  fol- 
lowed by  the  nurse  and  the  child.  Long  thereafter  lived  Marguerite 
alone,  until  finally  a  fishing-vessel  ran  in  warily  toward  the  smoke  of 
her  fire  and  rescued  her,  after  two  years  of  life  among  demons." 

The  eastern  portion  of  the  French  shore,  from  Cape  Bald  south- 
ward to  Cape  St.  John,  does  not  call  for  detailed  mention  here.  There 
are  fishing  stations  on  the  harbors  of  Griguet,  Lunaire,  Kt.  Anthony ; 
the  coaling  station  of  Croc  Harbor  ;  (Chouse  Brook  on  White  Bay ;  and 
La  Scie,  5  miles  from  Cape  St.  John.  The  most  important  waters 
are  Hare  Bay,  the  splendid  landlocked  harbor  of  Canada  Bai/,  and 
the  magnificent  sheet  of  water,  45  miles  long  by  15  wide,  called 
White  Bay.  This  bay  has  fine  fisheries,  and  little  fishing  posts  are 
scattered  all  about  its  shore. 

Halifax  to  Bridgewater  by  the  Atlantic  Coast. 

The  steamer  Cifi/  of  St.  John  loaves  Halifax  every  Monday 
evening,  and  connects  with  the  Boston  steamer  at  Yarmouth  on 
Wednesday ;  returning,  leaves  Yarmouth  for  Halifax  every  Thursday 
morning.  The  fare  between  Halifax  and  Yarmouth  by  this  route  is 
$5  ;  return,  $8.  The  steamer  calls  at  Lunenburg,  Liverpool,  Lockport, 
Shelbourne,  and  Barrington.  The  steamer  Bridgewater,  of  the  Coastal 
Steam  Packet  Co.,  sails  every  Wednesday  morning  at  8  o'clock  for 


HALIFAX   TO   BRTDHEWATER. 


241 


Lunenbtir-  and  Liverpool,  retuniinj?  Thursdnv  morning.     Kvorv  Satur 
day  n.ornniK  sho  sails  for  Mrid^ewator  diroot,   rc.tnrninK  on   Monday 
morning.     I-'au-s:  to  Lononi.urK  or  I{ridKOwator,  #2  ;  rKurn,  $3      To 
Liverpool,  p  ;  round  t.ip,  ?r,.     Meals  are  not  ineluded  in  these  pri.es 
After  passinj;  San.bro,  the  hoat  r.ins  some  distance  out  to  sea  before 
turnin-   westward,  dreading  the   perilous    San.bro   Ledges.      On    the 
right  lies  Pennant  Hay,  beyon.l  whieh  is  Mars  Head,  near  the  seene  of 
the  wreck  of  the  S.  S.  Ai/nnUr  in   187H,  by  which  no  fewer  than  y.m 
persons  perishe.l.    Here  also  were  wrecked  the  British  war-ships  North 
Helena,  and  Mars,  fron.  whhh  latter  ship  it  takes  its  name.     Next  we 
pass  the  broad  n.outh  of  the  lovely  Si.  MarflurcCH  B,u,,  in  whose  shel- 
tered recesses  lies  the  pleasant  sunnner   resort  of  the  same   name 
reached  by  stage  from  Halifax.     There  are  several  little  Bettieu.ents 
scattered  aro.n.,l  the  shores  of  this  beautiful  water,  the  n.ost  important 
of  which  is  Hubbard's  Cove.     From  the  head  of  the  bay  there  is  a 
pleasant  canoe  route,  with  short  portages,  across  the  province  to  the 
waters  of  the  Avon  and  Minas  Hasin,  with  f^ood  fishing  almost  all  the 
way.     Beyond  St.  Margaret's  Bay  we  enter  the  mouth"  of  another  bay 
even  more  capacious  than  that  we  have  just  left,  and  only  second  to  it 
for  roniantic  beauty.     In  some  weathers  the  steamer  sails  in  to  c.mmu- 
nieatc  with  the  towns  of  Chester  and  Mahone  Bay,  whose  harbors  are 
somewhat  shoal  for  large  vessels;  but  more  usually  she  sails  across 
the  mouth  in  the  direction  of  Cape  La  Have,  leaving  these  towns  to  be 
served  by  the  stage-coaches.     Chester  is  45  miles  by  stage  from  Hall- 
lax  ;  40  miles  by  similar  conveyance  from  Windsor.     In  summer  it  is 
one  of  the  most  delightful  of  watering-places,  fre.,«ented  by  champing 
society  from  Halifax  and  from  the  Southern  States;  but  in  winter  it 
has  earned  for  itself  the  pathetic  sobriquet  of  "  Chester-God-help-us  " 
The  town  has  a  couple  of   comfortable  hotels  (of  which  the  Lovett 
House  IS  the  best),  and  about  600  inhabitants  of  its  own.     Its  scenery 
is  delicious,  its  climate  perfection  ;  and  one  mav  row  and  paddle  and 
sad,  catch  cod  or  flounders  or  lobsters,  go  in  swimming,  or  loaf  and 
invite  his  soul,  as  agreeably  at  Chester  as  anywhere  else  one  can  think 
of,  in  Nova  Scotia  at  least.     A  delightful  excursion  from  Chester  is 
to  Mount  Aspotogan,  from  whose  summit  one  gets  a  magnificent  view 
Withm  easy  reach  of  Chester,  beyond  Chester  Basin,  is  the  unrivaled 
salmon-water  of  Gokl  River,  frequented  also   by   splendid  sea-trout 
All  along  the  drive  one  has  endlessly  changing  views  of  Mahone  Bay\ 
countless  islands,  on  some  of  which  are  cozv  little  Dutch 


16 


cozy 


farms.    In 


24^ 


HALIFAX   TO   BKIDGEWAl  EE. 


among  these  islands,  in  the  summer  of  1813,  the  American  privateer 
Young  Teaser  was  chased  by  two  British  war-ships.  When  the  Ameri- 
c>in  ship  was  utterly  defeated,  her  officers  blew  her  up  rather  than  sur- 
render, and  every  man  on  board  perished.  The  largest  of  the  islands 
in  the  bay  is  Big  Tancook,  with  a  population  of  540.  The  most  inter- 
esting is  Oak  Island,  one  of  the  best  accredited  of  the  innumerable 
claimants  to  the  honor  of  having  served  as  a  hiding-place  for  the 
treasures  of  Captain  Kidd.  Treasure-seekers,  sinkiiig  pits  on  the 
island,  have  found  a  host  of  mysteries  but  no  money.  Shafts  have 
been  dug  several  hundred  feet,  through  layers  of  cut-stone  and  hewn 
timbers,  strange  grasses  from  the  tropics,  charcoal,  putty,  and  care- 
fully jointed  planks.  A  great  deal  of  capital  has  been  invested  in  the 
effort  either  to  find  the  treasure  or  to  solve  the  mystery  of  these  under- 
ground works ;  but  at  length  the  toilers  came  upon  great  stone  drains 
communicating  with  the  sea,  which  admitted  such  floods  of  water  that 
their  pumps  could  not  cope  with  it ;  and  the  diggings  have  been  aban- 
doned. The  little  town  of  Mahone  Bat/  is  less  attractive  to  summer 
visitors  than  Chester,  but  is  far  more  business-like  and  prosperous.  It 
is  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  and  in  building  small  ships  for  coasting 
trade.     It  has  a  population  of  about  1,000. 

Before  reaching  Cape  La  Have  the  steamer  turns  into  a  fair  and 
sheltered  haven  called  by  the  Indians  Malagash,  or  "  Milky,"  from  the 
soft  whiteness  of  its  surf,  and  draws  up  to  the  wharves  of  liUnen- 
burg.  This  is  a  thriving  German  town  of  5,000  inhabitants,  with 
large  ship-building  and  mining  interests,  and  an  extensive  trade  in  fish 
with  West  Indian  ports.  The  town  occupies  a  steep  slope,  and  shows 
up  most  effectively  as  one  approaches  it  from  the  sea.  Its  distance  by 
water  from  Halifax  is  45  miles,  and  its  chief  hotel  is  Kiny^s.  The 
town  and  county  of  Lunenburg  were  settled  in  1*753  by  Germans 
and  Swiss,  and  the  German  language  and  German  customs  still  prevail 
in  the  district.  We  see  women  working  in  the  fields  like  men,  and 
cows  yoked  with  oxen  to  do  the  hauling  and  the  plowing.  The  great 
point  of  interest  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lunenburg  is  the  peninsula  of 
Ovens  Head,  distant  about  10  miles.  On  this  peninsula  has  been  ob- 
tained, by  washings,  a  large  yield  of  gold.  The  place  is  remarkable 
for  the  strange  caverns  in  its  sea-face,  called  the  '*  Ovpns,''^  whence  it 
derives  its  name.  These  penetrate  the  cliffs  for  several  hundred  feet,  and 
into  their  yawning  jaws  the  great  seas  roar  terrifically.  There  are,  not 
unnaturally,  many  curious  legends  and  traditions  connected  with  the 


HALIFAX  TO   BRIDGEWATER. 


243 


Ovens,  the  most  remarkable— and  least  credible— of  which  is  to  the 
eifect  that  once  an  Indian,  being  swept  by  wind  and  current  into  the 
largest  aperture,  was  sucked  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  to  reappear 
not  seriously  the  worse  for  his  astounding  adventure,  amon-  the  count' 
less  isles  of  Tusket,  at  the  S.  W.  en.l  of  the  peninsula.     After  roundin- 
the  well-named  headland  of  Point  Enra/re,  the  steamer  enters  the  fine 
estuary  of  the  La  Have  Rioer,  and  ascends  it,  on  certain  trips  18  miles 
to  the  town  of  Bridgewater.     The  shores  of  La  Have  are  rich  in  his' 
tory,  the  district  having  been  an  important  center  of  Acadian  coloniza- 
tion.   Here  the  chivalrous  knight  of  Jerusalem,  Isaac  de  Razillv  had  his 
headquarters,  and  here  he  died,  untimely,  in  1637,  to  the  incalculable 
loss  of  Acadie.   Fort  La  Ileve  was  the  scene  of  many  a  well-fought  battle 
between  French  and  English  or  \ew-Englandei-s,  and  the  lover  of  anti- 
quarian research  will  find  the  neighborhood  a  fertile  field  for  his  work. 
The  sail  up  the  La  Have  is  very  beautiful,  and  the  town  of  Bridgewater 
is  most  fortunate  in  its  situation.     At  the  census  of  1881  it  had  a 
population  of  1,000,  but  it  is  growing  since  the  opening  of  the  Nova 
Scotia  Central  Railway,  which   has  its  offices  and  works  at  Bridge- 
water.     Its  chief  business  is  the  lumber-trade,  and  its  great  saw-Miil  s 
are  a  picturesque  feature  of  the  landscape.     The  chief  hotel  is  the 
Fairview,  $1.50  per  day.     At  this  point,  or  at  Lunenburg,  the  traveler 
who  is  not  going  on  down  the  coast  takes  the  railway  across  the  prov- 
ince to  Middleton,  on  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Ky. 


.' 


Bridgewater  to  Yarmouth. 

After  leaving  Bridgewater  the  boat  rounds  Cape  La  Have,  and, 
after  a  run  of  9  miles  from  the  cape,  passes  the  mouth  of  Port'lHod- 
way,  a  deep  inlet,  on  which  stands  a  lumbering  village  of  the  saine 
name,  with  some  500  inhabitants.     There  is  a  good  deal  of  shin-build- 
ing at  this  little  town,  which  often  goes  by  the  name  of  Mill  Village. 
Leaving  behind  Coffin's  Island,  the  boat  rounds  into  Liverpool  Ba>i,  a 
fine  harbor  with  well-peopled  shores.    At  its  head  flows  in  the  Liverpool 
River,  the  outlet  of  the  beautiful  Lake  Romgnol,  the  largest  lake  of 
Nova  F,cotia.     The  name  of  this  lake  is  the  old  name  of  the  harbor, 
given  it  by  De  Monts,  in  1604,  in  honor  of  a  French  captain  who.-e 
ship  he  had  confiscated  for  trading  in  the  harbor  without  authority— 
which  must  have  seemed  to  the  unhappy  c.«-pt.'iin  a  somewhat  barren 
compensation.    At  the  mouth  of  the  Liverpool  River,  on  a  rocky  shore 


244 


BRIDGEWATER   TO   YARMOUTH. 


stands  the  pretty  and  well-kept  town  of  Liverpool,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  nearly  5,000  and  a  thriving  trade.  liumbering,  fishing,  and  ship- 
building, the  stand-byp  of  all  this  eoast,  are  the  chief  support  of  Liver- 
pool, but  she  is  also  developing  some  manufacturing  interests,  in  the 
lines  of  machinery,  leather,  matches,  and  iron-castings.  The  chief 
liotel  is  a  home-like  house,  called  "  The  Village  Gieen."  The  town  is 
a  pleasant  jilace  to  visit  ir^  summer,  with  some  agreeable  society,  and 
fine  trout-fi.shing  in  the  surrounding  waters — whose  names  are  legion. 
During  the  War  of  1812  Liverpool  was  a  privateering  center,  and 
her  ships  preyed  fiercely  and  successfully  on  American  commerce. 
In  days  more  ancient,  whose  history  comes  down  to  us  with  a 
somewhat  more  questionable  accuracy,  the  site  of  Liverpool  was  the 
realm  of  a  mighty  and  malignant  sorceress,  who  was  righteously,  if 
ungallantly,  attacked  by  the  Micmac  demigod  (Jluskap,  already  re- 
ferred to,  and  torn  to  pieces,  after  a  combat  which  the  stars  stood 
still  to  witness. 

Leaving  Liverpool  Bay,  the  boat  passes  the  bay  and  settlement  of 
Port  Mouton,  so  named  by  De  Monts  in  1604.  De  Monts  was  evident- 
ly impressed  by  Champlain's  lack  of  imagination  and  tendency  to  im- 
mortalize the  members  of  his  family  and  two  or  three  favorite  saints 
in  bestowing  names,  for  his  nomenclature  is  always  fresh  and  striking. 
The  harbor  in  question  received  its  title  from  the  circumstance  that 
here  a  sheep  jumped  overboard  and  was  drowned.  This  may  seem  to 
us  a  small  matter,  but  at  that  time  and  place  a  sheep  was  worth  con- 
sidering, and  its  loss  called  for  commemoration.  Leaving  out  of  sight 
Fort  Mouton,  the  boat  passes,  at  some  distance,  a  number  of  small  fish- 
ing villages,  and  comes  to  the  thriving  little  town  of  Lockeport,  on 
Locke's  Island,  37  miles  from  Shelburne.  This  town  has  a  populatioa 
of  1,918,  and  is  actively  engaged  in  tlie  West  India  trade  and  in  fishing 
on  the  Grand  Baidis.  From  Lockeport  the  steamer  crosses  the  inlets  of 
Green  Harbor  and  Jordan  River,  with  their  settlements  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance ;  passes  Bony's  and  Government  Points,  and  runs  close  to  the 
striped  black-and-white  tower  of  Cape  Roseway  light.  Then  the  course 
turns  sharply  to  the  N.  E.,  and  the  boat  steams  up  the  noble  expanse 
of  Shdburne  Harbor,  so  perfect  in  its  freedom  from  winds  and  cur- 
rents that  it  finds  its  bane  in  its  very  perfection,  and  freezes  solid  dur- 
ing the  winter  as  if  it  were  a  fresh-water  lake. 

Shelburne  is  a  little  town,  with  its  2,056  inhabitants,  but  it  has  a 
romantic  history.     In  a  night  it  grew  to  a  great  city,  and  again  in  a 


BRIDGEWATER   TO   YARMOUTH.  245 

day  it  fell  away  to  a  quiet  hamlet,  because  it  had  no  root  in  a  rich  sur- 
roundinq  country.     The  matchless  harbor  attracted,  in  1783,  no  fewer 
than  12,000  of  the  United  Empire  Loyalists  in  their  flight  from  the 
new  republic.     Giovernor  Parr  came  in  with  a  fleet,  and  his  batteries 
saluted  the  city  of  Shelburne,  which  had  sprung  up  like  a  dream, 
throwing  Halifax  into  utter  insignificance.     But  like  a  dream  the  city 
melted,  for  it  had  nothing  on  which  to  support  itself.     The  sealed  har 
bor  during  the  winter,  was  discouraging.     The  country  around  was  a 
wilderness,  and  not  one  of  the  sort  that  could  be  made  to  blossom  like 
the  rose.     Two  and  a  half  millions  were  sunk   in  founding  the  city 
boon  all  the  money  was  gone,  and  then  the  people  went  too-some 
back  to  the  United  States,  some  to  more  hopeful  settlements;  and 
Shelburne  was  left  with  a  population  of  400-and  the  negro  suburb  of 
B.rchtown  !     Even  now  the  town,  with  a  measure  of  returning  pros- 
perity, IS  ludicrously  suggestive  of  a  very  small  boy  masqueradin-  in 
the  garments  of  a  very  large  grandfather.     There  are  remnants  how- 
ever, of  the  old  loyalist  stock  in  shrunken  Shelburne,  making  society 
there  very  pleasant,  if  not  extensive.     The  chief  hotel  is  the  Shelburne 
House. 

Sailing  out  of  Shelburne  Harbor  the  steamer  rounds  Cape  Roseway 
and  turmng  eastward  passes  Negro  Island,  behind  which  lies  the  moutli 
of  the  river  Clyde.     The  next  point  of  interest  is  the  broad  water  of 
I'ort  Latour,  on  whose  shores  may  still  be  seen  the  remains  of  Claude 
de  a  four's  fort.     In  the  distance,  just  before  rounding  the  low  cane 
ciilled  Baccaro  Point,  is  visible  the  village  of  Port  Latour.     Bevond 
the  point  lies  Cape  Sable  Island,  7  miles  long  by  3  in  extmiie 
width,  with  about  1,700  inhabitants.     The  island  was  occupied  of  old 
l?y  the  Acadians,   who  in  1758  were  carried  awav  to  Halifax    after 
which,  m  the  course  of  a  quarter-century,  their  places  were  fill'ed    bv 
loyalists  from  New  England,  a  vigorous  stock.     The  extreme  southern 
pomt  of  the  island  is  the  ill-famed  Cape  Sable,  from  whose  conspicuous 
white  sands  comes  the  name.*     The  currents  and  fogs  and  ledges  off 
this  point  have  given  Cape  Sable  its  sinister  reputation,  well  justified  by 
the  numerous  wrecks  of  which  it  has  been  the  author-chief  of  which 
may  be  mentioned  that  of  the  ocean  steamer  Hungarian.     Off  the  cape 
have  taken  place  some  important  sea-fights,  notably  that  in  which,  in 
17o0,  the  French  ship  St.  Francis  was    aptured  by  the  British  ship 


rm 

m 


%  j 


r''  1 


*  (Jap  aux  Sables,  or  the  Cape  of  Sands. 


246 


BRIDGEWATKR   TO    YARMOUTH. 


Albany;  and  that  in  1812,  when  the  American  ship  Yankee  destroyed 
the  British  ship  Royal  Bounty. 

Between  the  long  shores  of  Bacoaro  and  Cape  Sable  Island  is  the 
Barr'myton  FaHsayc,  up  which  the  boat  runs  12  miles  to  the  busy  fish- 
ing settlement  of  BarrinjS^toii,  with  a  population  of  about  l,fiOO. 
The  district  was  settled  in  1763  by  immigrants  from  Cape  Cod,  who 
were  joined  later  on  by  loyalist  refugees  from  the  same  section  of  the 
republic.  A  few  miles  from  Barrington  lie  the  Sabimm  and  Great 
Pubnico  Lakes.  Trom  Barrington  the  steamer  runs  out  by  the  West 
Passage  to  the  open  Atlantic,  passes  Shag  Harbor  and  Bon  Portage 
hland,  and  at  a  distance  the  outlying  rocks  of  Seal  Island  and  Blonde 
Rock,  notorious  respectively  for  the  wrecks  of  the  steamship  Colum- 
bia and  the  British  frigate  Blonde.  The  boat's  course  is  now  north- 
west. She  passes  the  mouth  of  Pubnico  Harbor,  where  lies  the  pros- 
perous French  town  of  Pubnico^  with  a  population  of  nearly  3,000  and 
a  large  fishing  fleet.  Argyle,  with  a  population  of  750,  is  near  by,  on 
Abuptic  Harbor.  After  crossing  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  and  of 
Tusket  River,  we  enter  the  myriad  islanded  waters  of  Tusket  Archi- 
pelago. The  scene  is  strangely  beautiful.  The  islands  are  of  every 
shape  and  size,  rising  boldly  out  of  ocean  depths.  They  stand  out 
from  the  coast,  unsheltered  by  beach  or  promontory,  and  the  tides  and 
storms  sweep  furiously  through  the  narrow  but  profound  passages  aat 
sunder  them.  Some  of  them  are  named,  but  most  are  nameless.  A 
fanciful  explorer  might  imagine  he  discovered  the  origin  of  the  Tusket 
Islands  in  the  innumerable  Tusket  Lakes,  clustered  about  the  course  of 
the  Tusket  River.  These  lakes  are  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  and  look 
like  spots  whence  patches  of  land  were  pulled  up  and  cast  into  the  sea 
to  form  islands.  It  is  strange  that  the  Micmac  genius  has  not  invented 
a  tradition  to  such  effect.  These  Tusket  Lakes,  it  may  be  said,  offer 
some  of  the  best  trout  and  salmon  fishing  of  the  province.  After  leav- 
ing the  Tuskets  Jebogue  Point  is  rounded,  and  the  steamer  enters  the 
estuary  of   Yarmouth  River  and  ascends  the  narrow  channel  to  the 

Yarmouth  wharves. 

Yarmouth. 

The  chief  hotels  of  Yarmouth  are  the  Queen,  Grand,  and  Lome.  Liv- 
ery charges  are  very  moderate,  and  according  to  agreement.  Fare  by 
steamer :  Yarmouth  to  Boston,  !^5 ;  round  trip,  $8 ;  Yarmouth  to  St. 
John,  by  Western  Counties  Railway,  |3.40 ;  to  Middleton,  |3.25 ;  to 
Halifax  (rail),  |6  ;  (boat),  >i?5.  The  steamer  ^l/(o/trt  leaves  Yarmouth  for 
St.  John  every  Monday  and  Thursday,  at  4  p.  m.,  returning  Tuesday  and 


YARMOUTH. 


247 


Friday  evenings.  The  Boston  steamers  leave  Yarmouth,  during  the 
sunimor  season,  on  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  Friday,  and  Saturday  even- 
ings, on  arrival  of  Halifax  train;  leave  Boston  Monday,  Tuesday, 
Thursday,  and  Friday  at  12  noon.  During  July  and  Augiist  they  make 
five  trips  a  week  each  way.  Fare  from  Halifax  to  Boston  via  Yar- 
mouth, IT.nO;  round  trip,  $14.  The  unlimited  ticket,  allowing  one  to 
stop  ofi  at  any  place  or  places  along  the  way,  is  $9.50. 

The  prominence  attained  by  Yarmouth  as  a  shipping  port  is 
rather  in  spite  of  than  by  reason  of  her  harbor,  which  is  straitened 
and  tide-vexed,  and  troublesome  to  ascend.  Hut  she  has  triumphed 
brilliantly  over  these  disadvantages,  and  now  ranks  fourth  among  Cana- 
dian ship-owning  ports.  St.  John,  Montreal,  and  Windsor  head  the  list. 
The  city  is  developing  its  harbor,  adding  steamers  to  its  sailing  fleets, 
and  keeping  abreast  of  modern  movements.  Lately  it  has  shown 
excellent  pluck  in  inaugurating  a  first-class  steamship  communication 
with  Boston,  affording,  by  means  of  two  fine  new  Clyde  built  steamers, 
the  Boston  and  the  Yarmouth,  a  swift  and  pleasant  route  to  the  New 
England  capital.  The  Boston  is  one  of  the  fastest  ships  of  her  size 
afloat.  Yarmouth  has  woolen-mills,  foundries,  and  a  canvas-factory, 
and  so  is  not  wholly  dependent  upon  her  fishing  interests.  She  has 
many  handsome  private  residences,  surrounded  by  charming  and  well- 
kept  grounds;  and  she  is  noted  for  the  neatness  and  luxuriance  of 
her  numerous  hedges.  Through  the  hottest  months  qF  summer  the 
lawns  and  trees  of  Yarmouth,  and  the  blossoms  of  her  tasteful  gar- 
dens,  preserve  a  spring-like  freshness  under  the  sott  touches  of  the 
Atlantic  mists.  This  bright  and  hospitable  little  city  might  almost 
be  called  a  colony  of  ship-Captains. 

From  Halifax  eastward. 

The  steamers  Fastnet  and  City  of  Ghent  rim  eastward  from  Halifax 
along  the  coast  to  and  through  the  Strait  of  Canso.  Places  on  the 
strait  are  more  conveniently  and  regularly  reached  by  the  rail  route 
already  described,  and  along  this  portion  of  the  Atlantic  coast  there  are 
few  points  of  interest  till  we  come  to  the  great  Bay  cf  Chedabucto, 
and  the  little  but  sanguine  town  of  Canso  at  its  mouth.  Intermediate 
points,  such  as  Chezzetcook,  Musquodoboit  Harbor,  Jeddore,  Ship  Har- 
bor, Tangier,  Sheet  Harbor,  St.  Mary's,  and  Sherbrooke,  are  best  reached 
by  stage  from  Halifax.  Chezzetcook  is  interesting  as  a  thoroughly 
typical  Acadian  settlement,  on  which  time  and  progress  work  no 
cliangos.     Its  quaint  people  afford  a  rich  Held   for  observation  and 


I 


i    ,v 


248 


FROM   HALIFAX    EASTWARD. 


material  for  any  number  of  racy  genre  pictures.  Musquodoboit  is  in- 
tercsting  for  its  gold-niinos,  trout,  and  salmon.  Jeddore  has  about  2,000 
inhabitants,  occupied  in  lumbering  and  fishing.  The  whole  region  is 
full  of  trout  waters.  Near  Ship  Harbor  is  a  noble  lake  of  the  same 
name.  Tangier,  60  miles  from  Halifax,  is  a  gold-mining  center  on  the 
Tangier  River,  or,  as  the  Indians  call  it,  Ahmagopakegoek,  which 
means  "Tumbling  over  the  Rooks."  Twenty  miles  beyond,  at  the 
head  of  the  fine  inlet  called  Sheet  Harbor,  is  a  si  ■;  .  village  of  the 
same  name,  near  which  flow  in  the  noted  salmon-sc: ,  ailed  Middle 

and  ^'orth  Rivers. 

Sherbrooke  is  on  St.  Mary's  Bay,  the  mouth  of  the  important 
stream  called  ,SY.  Mary's  River.  This  is  one  of  the  finest  salmon- 
waters  in  the  province,  the  fish  running  almost  as  large  as  those  of 
the  Restigouche ;  and  it  is  not  less  famous  for  its  trout.  Within  a 
radius  of  10  or  12  miles  are  the  equally  noted  waters  (with  salmon, 
ti'out,  and  sea-trout  running  up  to  five  and  six  pounds)  of  the  Gegoggin, 
Gaspereaux,  and  Indian  Rivers,  whose  pools  and  runs  will  surely  satisfy 
the  most  exacting  angler. 

Canso  is  on  Chedabucto  Bay,  32  miles  S.  E.  of  Guysborough.  It 
has  a  population  of  about  l,r)00,  and  is  the  western  terminus  of  several 
of  the  Atlantic  cables,  whose  operators  give  the  town  some  pleasant 
society.  Near  this  point  a  company  of  Canadian  and  American  capital- 
ists is  proposing  to  erect  a  great  city,  to  be  called  the  Terminal  City, 
whence  fast  steamers  are  to  traverse  the  Atlantic  and  lightning  ex- 
presses rush  westward.  This  scheme  is  pretty  fully  developed,  and 
may  perhaps  be  carried  out,  in  which  case  the  splendid  Bay  of  Cheda- 
bucto would  emerge  from  its  present  obscurity.  Th.  town  of  Guys- 
borough  is  described  in  another  place. 

From  Halifax  to  Yarmouth  by  the  Dominion  Atlantic 

Railway. 

The  fare  from  Halifax  to  St.  John  by  this  route  is  $5.80 ;  to  Bos- 
ton, via  Yarmouth,  $7.50 ;  to  Yarmouth,  |6  ;  to  Annapolw,  $3.80  ;  to 
Bridgewater,  via  Middleton  and  Nova  Scotia  Central  R.  R.,  $4.75  ;  to 
KentviUe,  $2.15;  IVolfviUe,  $1.95 -,  Windsor,  $1.38.  The  .steamboat 
express  leaves  Halifax  in  the  morning  and  runs  through  to  Yarmouth 
in  about  seven  and  a  half  hours,  making  the  time  between  Halifax  and 
Boston  only  twenty-three  hours  in  all.  An  express  leaves  Halifax  for 
Kentville  at  three  in  the  afternoon.     Under  its  new  management  the 


FROM    HALIFAX    TO   YARMOUTH   BY    RAIL.  249 

Dominion  Atlantic  Ry.  has  become  a  very  attractive  road  to  travel  over. 
Road-bed  and  rolhng-stock  have  been  Improved  and  handsome  parlor- 
cars  added  to  the  fast  steamer  express,  known  as  the  "  Flying  Blnenose  " 
The  railway  Is  now  thoroughly  worthy  of  the  country  it  'traverses     '   ' 

From  Halifax  to  IVMor  Jnnefion  the  train  run.;  over  the  rails  of 
he  Intercolonial   by  a  route  already  described;   and  Bedford  Basin 
takes  on  new  phases  of  beauty  in  the  fresh  light  of  the  morning 
Three  miles  beyond  Windsor  Junction  is  the  station  of  Beaver  Bank 
and  10  nnes  farther  is  Mount  Uniacke,  the  seat  of  the  Uniacke  estatJ 
and  of  valuable  gold-mines.     The  settlement  lies  between  two  small 
rock-bound  akes     Another  10  miles  brl  :gs  us  to  the  picturesque  set- 

vaZ   ^'''.''"••^''"""'  ^'-'''^'^  -^'^^  -  ^«'-oe-sion  of  winding  hills  and 
val k^s.     This  was  once  a  very  flourishing  village,  with  a  pulp-mill 
and  argelun^benng  interests,  and  took  its  name  from  its  founder    a 
wealthy  German  of  high  birth,  with  the  failure  of  whose  business  came 
0  an  end  the  prosperity  of  the  village.     The  fine  Ellershausen  Place  is 
beautifully  situated  at  the  head  of  a  romantic  glen,  .lown  which  i 
grounds  extend.     A  few  miles  inland  from  Ellershouse  rises  Anioise 
muntarn  (pronounced  Aidice),  whose  summit  is  the  highest  point  in 
the  proymce.     A  short  distance  beyond  the  village  the  train  crosses  the 
8    Crm.  /.em.  which  is  at  this  point  a  picturesque  stream,  with  the 
.  uns  of  a  mill  dinging  to  its  rocky  banks.     The  St.  Croix  is  the  outlet 
of  the  famous  Fonhook  Lakes,  with  fine  scenery  and  excellent  trout- 

Ovving  to  their  comparative  inaccessibility  these  waters  are  not  ovcr- 
ftshed  and  they  will  well  repay  a  visit  by  e.noe.  Three  miles  from 
Ellershouse  is  ^ewport  Station,  the  center  of  a  fertile  farming  district 

JVcwpoit  he  populous  agricultural  villages,  reached  by  stage.     Three 
miles  beyond  Newport  we  pass  the  way  station  of  Three-Mile  Plains 
iet  3  miles  farther  and  we  run  out  upon  the  rich  marshes  between  the 
^  .  Croix  and  Avon,  .weep  round  the  grassy  hill  of  For(  Edward,  and 
run  mto  the  excessively  unpretentious  station  of  the  town  of  Windsor 
Windsor  is  a  wealthy  little  town  46  miles  from  Halifax,  with  a 
population,  according  to  the  census  of  1891,  of  2,90(»,  but  now  esti 
niated  at  something  over  3,000.     Its  shipping  is  enoimous,  and  it  ranks 
a     he  third  ship-owning  port  in  Canada.     It  is  largely  interested  in  the 
South  American  trade,  and  ships  great  quantities  of  white  and  hlue 
piaster  from  the  Wentworth  and  other  quarries  to  Boston,  New  York 


■)  1 


t  \ 


250 


WINDSOR. 


iiiid  riiiliulclpliia.  In  tlio  lU'i^hhorliood  arc  the  Rold-iiiiiios  of  Uawthti^ 
liiti'ly  opt  lu'tl  and  proviuj^  very  prodiK-livc.  Windsor  lias  also  larj^o 
fottoii,  i"urnit\iro,  and  Icatlu'r  farlorics,  licsldcs  an  I'xtciiHivc  iron-foun- 
dry. Its  only  publio  bnildin^s  of  importance  art'  the  new  (?onrt-Ilouso 
niid  the  handsome  new  I'onf-OJ/iW  ;  Itnt  the  plain  dark  pile  of  Kiiik'n 
College,  though  without  arehiteetunil  |)i'etension,  is  impressive  hy  rea- 
son of  its  eommandinji  site.  As  seen  from  the  station,  Windsor  is  not 
striking.  .Many  of  the  buildings  in  Water  St.,  the  main  business  thor- 
oughfare, are  old  and  dingy  ;  but  the  street  is  rapidly  undergoing  a  reno- 
vation in  this  respect,  and  the  shops  are  beginning  to  wear  a  new  face. 
The  street  itself  is  usually  either  muddy  or  dusty,  and  tlie  visitor  who 
has  heard  of  the  beauty  of  Windsor  should  lose  no  time  in  getting  to  the 
toj)  of  one  of  the  rounded  hills  on  which  the  town  is  built.  From 
the  top  of  Ftrn/  Hill,  either  when  the  tide  is  in,  or  at  sunset,  when 
the  vast  abyss  of  the  empty  channel  glows  like  polished  copper  about 
the  dark  piers  and  wharves  and  black  hulls  of  straiulcd  ships,  the 
scene  is  one  to  satisfy  the  titmost  expectations.  Quite  dilfercnt  but 
ctpially  superb  is  the  view  from  the  loftier  hill-top  occupied  by  the 
Tennis  Courts,  whose  i)avilion  roof  affords  a  post  of  vantage.  The 
streets  of  the  town  run  up  and  down  hill  and  in  unexpected  directions, 
and  are  well  adorned  with  sluidc-trccs.  Behind  the  lower  end  of  the 
town  flows  in  the  St.  Croix,  at  this  point  a  groat  tidal  stream  navigable 
for  ocean  ships  to  the  wharves  of  Wentworth.  The  Avon  Jiivcr, 
which  forms  the  harbor  of  Windsor,  is  a  large  tidal  stream  emptying 
into  the  liasin  of  Miiuis,  I'i  miles  below  the  town.  At  high  water  it  is 
like  an  iidand  sea,  amply  deep  for  any  ship  afloat ;  and  with  the  flood- 
title  come  shijis,  and  yachts,  and  tugs,  and  steamers,  flocking  to  the 
^\harvcs  of  Windsor.  At  low  tide  it  is  but  a  rivulet,  and  fairly  justi- 
fles  the  gibes  of  Charles  Dudley  Warner,  who  writes  of  the  Avon  aa 
follows  :  "  I  never  knew  before  how  nnich  water  adds  to  a  river.  Its 
slimy  bottom  was  quite  a  ghastly  spectacle,  an  ugly  rent  in  the  land 
that  nothing  could  heal  but  the  friendly  returning  tide.  I  should  think 
it  would  be  ctmfusing  to  dwell  by  a  river  that  runs  first  one  way  and 
then  the  other,  and  then  vanishes  altogether," 

The  ancient  name  of  Windsor  was  Piziquid,  meaning  "  The  Junction 
of  the  Waters."  Here  stood  a  populous  and  prosperous  Acadian  set- 
tlement, till  the  great  banishment  in  1765.  After  the  lands  of  the 
Acadians  had  lain  for  some  years  vacant,  settlers  from  Massachusetts 
and  Rhode  Island  were  brought  in  to  occupy  the  townships  of  Newport 


FROM    HALIFAX   TO    YAItMOUTH    BY    RAIL.  251 

an.l   Kal.n<,„tl.,  whil,.  WlndHm-  itsdf  was  hIIoIKmI  t,.  .otlii,,..   Uriti^h 
oHicMTS,  uixl  l.miine  one  of  t»io  Hocial  (M'utorfl  of  the  provi..,., "    Kinr-'H 
(  oII.-Ko,  tlu.  oldest  of  |.:nKl.u.,l',s  c„|<.„ial  nniv.rHiticM,  was  foun.lo.l  in 
I71X.,  „„  Oxford  iimmIcIh,  an.l  was  f^'ivrn  a  royal  vhnrWv  in   lH(>2      It  ih 
uiHl.T  tlu,  patrona-..  of  tl.c  Arol.hlMl.op  (,f  CuuWvUuvy,  an.l  is  a  Clnncl, 
of  Kn-lan.l  institution,  though  f.ve  to  all  .liMion.inationH  aliko.     If  n-I,.. 
hratcMl  Its  ei-ntcnary  hiHt  year;  and,  after  many  vicissitudes,  ,.nt..ml 
on  an  cni  ..f  n^newnl  prosperity  under  the  n.ana-e.nent  of  the  pn-sent 
prosuh-nt,  Dr.  Willets.    Some  of  the  most  .listiufruished  sons  of  Caua.la 
have  been  educated  at  King's,  on   whose  roll  of  g.a.h.ates  are  s.ieh 
names  as  those  of  Jud^.e  Haliburt.m  ("Sam  Slick  "),  Sir  .I.,hn  In-dis 
an.l  Sir  l-'enwick  Willia.ns.      At  one  corner  of  the  eoll..ge  p,.op..rty  is 
ihi'  Co(l<f;w(,  SWioof,  a  prosperous  institution,  an.l  adjoining  them  on 
the  E.,  ,m  a  n.omy  hillsid.',  are  the  groun.ls  and  buildings  of  "  h;f,,c/nll  " 
the  Mcwly-established  "  Church  School  for  (iirls."     A  favorite  walk  U 
from  town  out  to  the  college  woo.ls,  through  a  willowe.l  avenue  that 
crosses  the  ravine  of  the  .lisuse.l  plaster-.p.arries,  an.l  past  the  gate- 
house of  Cfi/fon,  the  ol.l  Ilaliburfm  estate  where  "Sam  Slick  "  used 
to  live.     This  hist..ric  estate,  with  its  delightful  ol.l  country-h.,usp  em- 
bowered in  ancient  trees,  no  longer  belongs  t.,  the  Ilaliburton  family 
but  IS  always  known  as  the  "Sam  Slick  House."     The  chief  hot..|s  of 
Wmds.,r  are  the  ncwiy-fitted-up   and  excellently  e.piippe.l    Du(^h-in 
Hotel  (once  the  Clifton  House),  whose  roomy  structure  is  the  most  con- 
spicuous object  near  the  atation ;  and  the  Victoria  (Doran's),  an  old 
and  popular  house,  now  undergoing  extensive  improvements  which  will 
bring  It  quite  up  to  the  re.juirements  of  the  day.     Am.mg  the  other 
hotels  may  be  mentioned  Mounceh  and  the  Somerset  Home.     A  cab  or 
two  is  usually  in  atten.lance  at  the  station,  and  carries  travelers  to  the 
hotels  or  points  in  town  for  25  cents.    The  livery  charges  <,f  the  establish- 
ments furnishing  these   cab.s    (Townshend's,  Jenkins's,  and    Smith's 
stables)  are  very  moderate. 

Windsor  to  Parrsboro  and  St.  John,  by  Boat. 

The  steamers  of  the  St.  John  and  Minas  Basin  Line  run  between 
Windsor  and  St.  John,  calling  at  Hantsport,  Kingnport,  Parrsboro 
and  Spencer\  Mand.  The  times  of  departure  and  arrival  change  daily 
with  the  tide,  and  are  announced  monthly  in  the  Halifax,  Windsor,  and 
St.  John  papers.  The  fare  to  St.  John  is  $2.75  ;  return.  $4,  includinrr 
meals.    The  fare  to  Parrsboro  is  $1.50  ;  return,  $3. 


J     ili 


252 


WIND80R   TO   l'AIiK8BuKO   AND   8T.    JOHN. 


The  run  down  to  the  Avon's  mouth  with  the  tide  is  charnunR  in  fine 
weather.  The  ample  river  can  by  no  strotoli  of  fancy  be  called  blue  ;  but 
blueness  is  something  of  which  we  have  by  this  time  prown  well-nigh 
surfeited.  The  shores  arc  a  succession  of  rich,  rolling  hills,  set  with 
pr<)S|)erous  villages ;  for  the  soil  of  this  region  is  of  boundless  fertil- 
ity. As  we  run  out  of  the  Avon  we  pass  on  oiu'  left  a  high  bluff,  whose 
face  is  a  mine  of  fossils  and  specimens  to  delight  the  min('raU)gist.  As 
we  cross  the  8v,aying  expanse  of  M'uhih  Jiaaiii,  the  ponderous  front  of 
B'omidon  (described  in  later  pages)  is  the  dominating  object,  dwarfing 
the  dark  brows  of  rival  promontories,  and  recalling  many  a  romantic 
tradition.  Running  past  its  foot,  we  find  that  this  giant  loses  none 
of  his  impressivoness  on  close  inspection.  Even  while  we  are  in  broad 
sunshine,  the  dark  sunnnit  towering  above  may  be  withdrawn  f lom  view, 
wrapped  in  the  fo^'s  that  roll  over  it  from  Fundy.  At  this  point  we 
connnand  a  magnificent  view  up  the  Basin,  past  tlie  quaint  masses  of 
Fire  Mmuh^  up  CoJmpnd  Bail,  to  the  very  moutli  of  the  Shubmacadie 
River,  while  far  behind  lies  the  meadow  of  Grand  Pre.  From  Blomi- 
don  we  run  across  the  mouth  of  the  Basin  to  the  village  of  Parrsboro, 
on  a  small  river  at  whose  mouth  the  steamer  stops.  As  we  make  fast  to 
the  mossy  timbers  of  the  pier,  our  view  out  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
is  cut  off  by  the  near  heights  of  Partridge  Inland,  an  abrupt  and  somber- 
wooded  hill  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  gravel  beach.  This  island 
is  the  center  of  many  Gluskilp  legends,  and  here  took  place  Ghiskilp's 
famous  carousal  with  the  divine  Kit-poose-ee-a-goo-no,  at  which  a  whole 
whale  was  eaten.  At  Parrsboro  Pier,  as  ihe  landing  is  called,  there  are 
admirable  beaches,  and  there  stands  a  pleasant  lodging-house  close  to  the 
head  of  the  wharf,  with  a  home-like  air  very  attractive  to  the  summer 
idler.  Parrsboro  itself  is  reached  by  a  drive  of  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  pier.  There  are  several  small  hotels,  of  which  the  most  com- 
fortable is  the  Grand  Central.  The  chief  business  of  Parrsboro,  sup- 
porting a  population  of  something  over  1,000,  is  the  shipping  of  lum- 
ber. It  is  the  best  center  from  which  to  reach  the  wild  back  country 
of  Cumberland  County,  famous  for  its  moose  and  bears,  and  its  com- 
paratively virgin  fishing-waters.  Guides  may  be  hired  in  the  town. 
A  run  of  32  miles  by  rail  will  enable  one  to  visit  the  prosperous  coal- 
mining town  of  Springhill,  a  thoroughly  typical  coal  town.  Parrs- 
boro lies,  by  water,  just  30  miles  from  Windsor.  Delightful  drives 
may  be  taken  in  the  neighborhood,  to  Apple  River,  Five  Islands,  and 
the  sublime  sea-scapes  of  Advocate  Harbor  and  Cape  d''  Or, 


in  fine 

;  but 
l-nigh 

with 
ft'itil- 
whose 
.  As 
mt  of 
arting 
lantic 

none 
broad 

view, 
nt  we 
ilea  of 
icadie 
ilomi- 
boro, 
ast  to 
iintly 
mber- 
island 
ikap's 
whole 
re  are 
to  tlie 
mrtier 
ihalf 

com- 
,  sup- 
■  lura- 
untry 
i  com- 
town. 

coal- 
i'arrs- 
Irives 
?,  and 


i'  •■ 


UUi 


WTNDROR    TO    PAFJRSUORo    axD    ST.    JOKN. 


253 


Fimii  PariHlM.i.)  pier  tlic  bout  nitis  out  into  t\w  Hay  of  Fuiuly 

on  tl.o  bosom  of  a  tivn„.|„lo„.s  tid.^,  tluit  nm'^  bc-twcon  Ca/,<  Sharp 
nn<l  IJIo.ni,!.,,,  at  tlio  rati,  of  8  (.r  \)  miles  hm  hour.  Soon  wr  ,,asH, 
•Ml  our  loft,  the  stnuijrc  and    impressive  piomontorv  of   ('a/,c  Snlii 

wims.'  tnininul  dili;  about   Urn  ft.  intrli,  «, us  to"l.avo  bmi  lifer' 

ally  Hplit  away  from  the  main  mass,  aii.l  now  rises  out  of  ihc  s.-etli- 
in-  ti(l..s  in  lonely  Kran.leur.  A>i«rr'«  /.s/und  is  passed  about  a 
<lozen  n.il,.s  from  ("ape  Split,  and  then  in  the  distanee  loom  the 
^'lant  outlines  of  ('„f„  .POr,  with  (\,j,r  f'/uf/nw/o  far  to  the  N.  Per- 
haps  the  most  interesting  poir.t  vv(>  pass  is  the  lofty  elilf-irt  island 
called  Isle  Haute,  in  the  middle  of  the  bay.  The  i,-land  is  less 
than  two  miles  it.  len-th,  and  its  apparently  inaeeossible  walls  are 
JJr.O  feet  in  hel-ht.  On  its  top  is  a  farm,  inhabited  an<l  eultivated 
by  a  family  for  whom  isolation  seems  to  have  no  terrors.  From 
Isle  Haute  t<.  St  John  is  a  run  of  from  ()()  to  75  miles,  aeeordiu.' 
to  weather  and  ti,:  The  eourse  is  down  the  open  bav,  and  the 
shores  are  too  far  oil"  to  be  of  interest. 


if 


» 


Windsor  to  Grand  Pr6. 

The  train  runs  slowly  through  tlu^  baek  yards  of  Windsor  to  the 
Avon,  and  erosses  the  river  on  a  fine  iron  brid-e,  parallel  to  which  runs 
the  li-ht  and  cmceful  structure  of  the  new  passen-er  bridge.     Then 
conies  the  p.-ctty  settlement  of  Falmouth,  1 .1  miles  from  Windsor  sta- 
tion.    The  next  stop  is  at  Ilantsport,  7  miles  fro.n  Windsor.     This 
18  a  neat  and  thrivin-  town,  and  does  an  immense  amount  of  ship-build- 
mg.     It  is  beginning  to  develop  manufacturing  interests,  and  has  "ood 
freestone  (p.arries  in  the  vicinity.     The  houses  are  small,  but  wear  an 
air  of  comfort.     From  this  point  onward  to  Avonpori  the  railroad  fol- 
lows the  banks  of  the  Avon,  and  one  gets  noble  views  from  the  ear 
wmdows,  across  the  wide  Avon,  and  Minas  IJasin,  toward  the  blue  line 
of  the  Parrsboro  shore,  with  fine  glimpses  of  the  mighty  shoulder  of 
Blomidoii.     Presently  this  great  pronu.ntory  comes  into  full  view, 
and  thenceforth  remains  the  commanding  feature  of  the  landscape  for 
many  miles,  until  Port  Williams  is  left  behind. 

"  This  is  that  black  rock  bastion,  l)ase(l  in  surge, 
Pregnant  vvitli  agate  and  with  amethyst, 
Whose  foot  the  tides  of  storied  Minas  scourge, 
Whose  top  austere  withdraws  into  its  mist. 


254  WINDSOR   TO   GRAND   PRE. 

"  Thin  in  that  nncioiit  cupe  of  tears  and  ntorm, 

Whosf  towel lii}j  front  inviolable  frowns  v 

O'er  vales  Evangeline  and  love  keep  warm— 
Wliose  fame  thy  song,  O  tender  singer,  crowns. 

"Yonder,  acrosH  these  reeling  fields  of  foam, 
Came  the  sad  threat  of  tlie  avenging  sliips. 
What  profit  now  to  know  if  jtist  the  doom, 

"  Though  harsh!    The  streaming  eyes,  the  praying  lips. 
The  shadow  of  inextinguishable  pain, 
The  poet's  deathless  music— these  remain!  " 

Avonport  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Avon,  5  miles  from  Hantsport,  58 
miles  from  Halifax.  Two  miles  beyond  we  cross  the  storied  Gaspe- 
reaux  at  its  mouth,  and  reach  the  village  of  Hortou  Landing.  From 
this  point,  on  to  beyond  Wolfville,  we  are  in  the  actual  "  Land  of 
Evangeline."  The  great  body  of  the  Acadian  settlement  was  nearer 
llorton  Landing  than  to  the  station  of  Grand  Pre,  1  mile  farther 
on.  Close  to  Horton  Landing  is  the  little  creek  at  whose  mouth  the 
unhappy  Acadians  were  embarked  for  exile.  At  Horton  Landing  is  a 
pleasant  little  half  hotel,  half  country-house,  by  name  Dttncdm  Cottage  ; 
and  visitors  may  spend  some  sunmier  weeks  here  very  pleasantly, 
roaming  the  breezy  "  dikes,"  bathing  on  the  beaches  of  Long  Island, 
or  exploring  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Gaspercaux.  Close  to  J)unedin 
Cottage  is  Patterson's  Agricultural  and  Business  School,  where  boys 
are  taught  farming,  with  other  useful  knowledge.  Grand  Pre  itself, 
from  whose  station  we  see  close  at  hand  a  row  of  old  Acadian  willows, 
and  on  the  hill-side  a  few  gaunt  Acadian  poplars  and  gnarled  Acadian 
apple-trees,  can  hardly  be  called  a  village.  It  is  merely  a  thicker 
clustering  of  the  fruitful  farms  and  orchards,  and  ample  farm-houses, 
that  make  so  cheerful  the  face  of  all  this  landscape.  Near  the  station 
is  a  great  tree  by  whose  foot  may  be  traced  the  foundatiotis  of  the 
Acadian  Parish  Church.  The  neighborhood  is  a  delightful  one  to  visit, 
for  many  gentlemen  from  Halifax  and  other  centers  have  farms  here, 
where  they  make  their  summer  residence.  The  visitor  who  wishes  to 
spend  some  time  in  this  neighborhood  and  do  thoroughly  the  whole 
district  over  which  Longfellow  has  cast  the  colored  light  of  romance, 
will  find  it  most  convenient  to  make  his  headquarters  at  Wolfville, 
3  miles  beyond  Grand  Pr6,  whence  the  whole  region  is  accessible  by 
pleasant  carriage-drives. 


lort,  58 
iaspe- 

Fiom 
ind  of 

uearei" 
farther 
uth  the 
ng  is  a 
ottat/e  ; 
santly, 
Island, 
unedin 
?e  boys 
)  itself, 
allows, 
icadian 
thicker 
tioujses, 
station 
of  the 

0  visit, 
s  here, 
shes  to 

1  whole 
mance, 
rville, 
ible  by 


1 

.(         . 

f 

Cape  Split, 


WINDSOR   TO    GRAND   PRE. 
THE  EXPULSION  OF  THE  ACADIANS. 


255 


It  is  to  be  presumed  that  the  tourist  will  go  through  this  region 
with  an  open  volume  of  "Evangeline"  in  his  hand,  or  at  least  with  a 
copy  of  Longfellow  in  his  pocket.  Hence,  extended  quotations  from 
the  noble  and  touching  poem,  which  has  immortalized  this  region  and 
crystallized  in  men's  minds  a  somewhat  mistaken  view  of  the  tragedy 
here  enacted,  might  be  considered  superfluous.  Nevertheless  we  ap- 
pend one  extract,  in  which  the  Acadian  village  is  inimitably  described: 

"  In  the  Acadian  land,  on  the  shores  of  the  Basin  of  Minas, 
Distant,  secluded,  still,  the  little  village  of  Grand  Pre 
Lay  in  the  fruitful  valley.    Vast  meadows  stretched  to  the  eastward 
Giving  the  village  its  name,  and  pastiue  to  flocks  without  number 
Dikes,  that  the  hands  of  the  farmers  had  raised  with  labor  incessant 
Shut  out  the  turbulent  tides;  but  at  certain  seasons  the  flood-gates 
Opened,  and  welcomed  the  sea  to  wander  at  will  o'er  the  meadows 
\Ve8t  and  south  there  were  fields  of  flax,  and  orchards  and  com-flelds 
Spreading  afar  and  unfenced  o'er  the  plain;  and  away  to  the  northward 
Blomidon  rose,  and  the  forests  old,  and  aloft  on  the  mountains 
Sea-fogs  pitched  their  tents,  and  mists  from  the  mighty  Atlantic 
Looked  on  the  happy  valley,  but  ne'er  from  their  station  descended 
There,  m  the  midst  of  its  farms,  reposed  the  Acadian  village 
Strongly  built  were  the  houses,  with  frames  of  oak  and  of  chestnut 
Such  as  the  peasants  of  Normandy  built  in  the  reign  of  the  Henries' 
Thatched  were  the  roofs,with  dormer-windows;  and  gables  projecting 
Over  the  basement  below  protected  and  shaded  the  doorway 
There  in  the  tranquil  evenings  of  summer,  when  brightly  the  sunset 
Lighted  the  village  street,  and  gilded  the  vanes  on  the  chimneys 
Matrons  and  maidens  sat  in  snow-white  caps  and  in  kirties 
Scarlet  and  blue  and  green,  with  distaffs  spinning  the  golden 
Flax  for  the  gossiping  looms,  whose  noisy  shuttles  within  doors 
Mingled  their  sound  with  the  whir  of  the  wheels  and  the  songs  of  the  maidens 
Solemnly  down  the  street  came  the  parish  priest,  and  the  children 
Paused  in  their  play  to  kiss  the  hand  he  extended  to  ble^s  them 
Reverend  walked  he  among  them;  and  up  rose  matrons  and  maidens 
Hailing  his  slow  approach  with  words  of  affectionate  welcome 
Then  came  the  laboieis  home  from  the  field,  and  serenely  the  sun  sank 
Down  to  his  rest,  and  twilight  prevailed.    Anon  from  the  belfry 
Softly  the  Angelas  sounded,  and  over  the  roofs  of  the  ^■illage 
Columns  of  pale  blue  smoke,  like  clouds  of  incense  ascending 
Rose  from  a  hundred  hearths,  the  homes  of  peace  and  contentment, 
inus  dwelt  together  in  love  these  simple  Acadian  farmers- 
Dwelt  in  the  love  of  God  and  of  man.    Alike  were  they  free  from 
Fear,  that  reigns  with  the  tyrant,  and  envy,  the  vice  of  republics 
Neither  locks  had  they  to  their  doors,  nor  bars  to  their  windows-" 
But  then-  dwellings  were  open  a^  day  and  the  hearts  of  the  owners- 
There  the  richest  was  poor,  and  the  poorest  lived  in  abundance  "  ' 


:-i 


256 


WINDSOR  TO  GRAND   PRE. 


The  pathos  jind  pppcal  of  the  Acadian  story,  as  told  by  Longfellow, 
should  not  be  allowed  to  blind  us  to  the  fact  thn^  ^he  pitiful  fate  of  the 
Acadians  was  a  measure  of  absolutely  necessary  justice.     In  spite  of 
the  most  earnest  pleadings,  the  frankest  threatenings,  and  forty  years 
of  unparalleled   forbearance,   exercised   long   after   forbearance   had 
ceased  to  be  a  virtue,  the  Acadians  persisted  in  a  deadly  enmity  to  a 
government  whose  subjects  they  unquestionably  were.     They  refused 
to  allow  themselves  to  be  considered  as  other  than  enemies,  and  not 
only  did  they  engage,  along  with  the  savages,  in  occasional  bloody 
raids  upon  the  English  settlements,  but  their  presence  in  the  colony 
made  a  point  of  almost  fatal  weakness  in  its  defenses,  at  a  time  when 
England  was  engaged  in  what  was  practically  a  life-and-aeath  struggle 
with  her  great  antagonist.     The  indulgence  of  the  English  Government 
was  repaid  by  the  Acadians  with  hatred,  and   sometimes  with  the 
seal  ping-knife.     Undoubtedly  these  people  believed  they  were  acting 
aright.     Iljid  they  been  left  to  themselves,  they  would  have  become,  in 
the  course  of  a  generation,  loyal  and  contented  subjects.     But  they 
were  made  the  tools  of  French  intrigue.    From  Quebec  every  effort  was 
continually  put  forth  to  keep  alive  their  bitterness  against  their  con- 
querors, and  their  belief  that  Acadia  would  once  more  be  brought  be- 
neath the  sway  of  France.    When  they  began  to  show  signs  of  a  desire 
to  accept  the  situation,  and  when  persuasion  on  the  part  of  Quebec 
became  ineffectual,  then  threats  were  employed,  and  they  were  menaced 
with  the  tomahawks  of  the  savages.     The  authorities  at  Quebec  had  no 
scruples.     Sometimes  violence  was  resorted  to,  and  the  exile  of  the 
Acadians  was  begun  by  Le  Loutre  before  the  English  had  thought  of 
it.     Hundreds  of  Acadians,  who  were  becoming  reconciled  to  English 
rule,  were  forced  by  Le  Loutre  to  move  into  French  territory,  where 
they  suffered  unbounded  hardships.     Their  homes  were  burned  behind 
them,  and  whole  villages  were  thus  depopulated,  in  obedience  to  a 
heartless  policy.     The  Acadians  were  a  simple  and  ignorant  people, 
easily  led  by  their  superiors,  and  hence  on  a  final  estimate  they  must 
be  regarded  as  more  sinned  against  than  sinning.      But  those  who 
wrought  their  ruin  and  deserved  their  curse  were  not  the  English,  but 
their  own  countrymen.     The  removal  of  the  Grand  Pre  Acadians  was 
accomplished  with  combined  firmness  and  gentleness  by  Colon  '  Win- 
slow,  of  Boston,  with  his  New  England  troops ;  and  his  journal,  though 
full  of  commiseration  for  this  unhappy  people,  shows  that  he  did  not 
consider  the  justice  of  their  sentence  in  the  least  degree  open  to  qucs- 


WINDSOR   TO   GRAND    PRE. 


257 

tt  OuotT  T  '^'i' "''  ^^^''"'f'"«hed  many  of  the  Acadians  oscnn  .1 
to  Quebec,  where  their  lot  wa.s  pitiful  indeed  compared  vMth  tC  n 
those  who  remained  in  the  American  colonies.    Amon'n'n  o     ,    „ 
speech  and  faith  they  were  at  least  humanely  treated     bu    .to 
t.ey  were  cheated  and  starved,  and  died  likrheen  ,'.«""«:  fn'r" 
the  tender  mereies  of  Bigot  and  his  creatures      fl^;  re   od      'whih 

annals     After  the  removal  of  the  Acadians  their  fair  inheritance  lav 
vacant  for  years  ere  men  of  English  speech  entered  upon  it  ' 


WolfviUe  to  Annapolis. 


p.pH^'***'''!"^  '^  ''  remarkably  pretty  little  university  town  embow 
ered  m  apple-orchards,  and  ranged  on  a  sunny  slope  facin^  the  ma"  sheT 

M  T  ii'^r.  r- 1 '''  ^^^"'^'^^"'  aLding-to'L::*^ 

01    Bill,  was  1,6(1.),  but  in  the  cenmis  now  beliiR  taken  it  will  ri,o  , 
bettc  account  of  itself.    On  the  other  side  of  the  great  ridg    b  h  nd 
the  town  „es  ihe  deep  romantie  Val/e,,  of  me  6r»«p.L..,  wbSi  H   d 
by  some  travelers  to  resemble  the  valley  of  the  Dee      A  T  1       , 
f^™  Wolfville  ever  the  hill  will  ta.e  oneM'rr;  J    atnlv" 
been  do,,,.  jusUee  to  by  the  artist's  brush.    The  upper  waters  „rtle 
Gaspereaux  afford  some  geod  salmou-fishiug,  and  the  ehain  „f  1  l 
fiom  whieh  it  Hows  is  well  stoeked  with  trout  "e  own  „;„,•,:! 
.»  donuuated  by  the  Baptist  university  of  J„aia  CoCwth^.s  a, 
ciated  ,n,.,.„,i        ,„,  ,,,  ^,„^„,,^__  ^^  gW;      A     .1^ 

college  ,>  Dr.  Sawyer,  who  secures  a  very  loyal  and  vigorous  support 

or  the  instuution  from  the  denomination  under  whose  aufpiees  i    s  eoT 

diicted.    The  university  building  occupies  a  fine  site  on  theh  1  s  de  and 

hows  up  very  effeetively  as  seen  fro.u  the  passing  train     Wolfville 

has  several  hotels,  the  best  of  which  is  perhaps  theL^nV^^^  ll'"' 

The  great  cape  of  Blomidon,  the  sentinel  of  the  Evan-eliu..  hnrl 

tZ  :r  '' n'  t*'"""  '™'"  ^''"^•"''  - "™  Kentvillf      akin 
he  new  Cormvalhs  Valley  li.  R.  ,o  Kiugsport  and  driving  thence     U 

r  ;-..i  ?  ""'"  "  ^°""'  *«  *""""'  Cornwalli,  Valley  to 

the  httle  town  of  Ca„„i„,.    This  valley  is  indeed  the  garden  of  ,  e 
province.    It  is  traversed  by  four  river.,-the  Cornwallis  f.„„,rd  r  „ 
».ng,  and  i'ereau.     Its  deep  alluvial  soil  is  of  quenchless  fertimv.     u. 


III 


258 


WOr-FVILLE   TO    ANNAPOLIS. 


1 


climate,  protected  by  the  lofty  range  of  North  Mountain  from  the  fogs 
and  9torn>8  of  Fundy,  has  the  sparkle  of  sea  air  with  the  softness  of 
the  most  favored  inland  regions.  In  many  of  its  charming  character- 
istics, and  particularly  by  reason  of  its  abounding  orchards,  it  recalls 
the  Niagara  Peninsula.  Some  distance;  beyond  Canning  the  road  be- 
gins to  wind  up  the  sid(i  of  North  Mouutaiii,  and  then  runs  along 
the  crest  to  the  lofty  point  of  vantage  called  the  liOok-ofT,  whence 
one  gazes  into  five  counties.  The  glorious  |)anorama  seen  from  this 
point  is  something  one  unist  go  far  to  equal.  Four  ndles  farther  on 
the  range  of  North  Mountain  breaks  down  in  magnificent  abruptness  of 
cliff,  nearly  600  ft.,  to  the  tide-swept  Hasin  of  Miuas.  This  cliff-front 
is  IJlonndon,  and  the  expert  climber  may  explore  its  somber  ramparts 
for  amethysts  and  garnets,  opal  and  agate,  chalcedony  and  copper, 
malachite  and  psilomelanc,  or  for  that  fabled  crystal,  the  Diamond  of 
Bhini'lon,  whose  radiance  reveals  itself  only  to  the  distant  watcher, 
and  evades  anything  like  a  close  scrutiny. 

Two  miles  beyond  Wolfville  is  the  station  of  Port  Williams,  whence 
quantities  of  apples,  potatoes,  and  cattle  are  shipped.  Then  we  for- 
sake the  marshes  for  a  time,  and  find  them  very  straitened  when  we 
meet  them  again  as  we  draw  near  Kontville.  Keutville*  is  a  busy 
town  packed  into  a  rcnuirkably  lovely  little  valley,  along  with  a  bit  of 
tidal  river,  a  brawling  amber  brook  overhung  with  willows,  splendid 
trees,  and  great  variety  in  very  scanty  room,  Eveiything  appears  on 
a  diminutive  scale.  Evei-ywhere  is  close  to  everywhere  else  in  Kcnt- 
ville,  and  the  place  has  a  peculiar  and  distinctive  charm  in  spite  of  its 
summer  heat.  That  is  a  small  drawback,  however,  for  when  quite 
roasted  out  one  need  turn  aside  but  a  dozen  paces,  climb  a  hill-top,  and 
cool  himself  comfortably.  Kentville  is  also  dusty;  but  this  matters 
little,  for  no  wind  can  get  at  the  dust  to  make  it  troublesome.  The 
population  of  Kentville  is  something  over  2,000.  It  has  several  hotels, 
the  most  popular  of  which  is  the  excellent  new  house  Abtvdcen.  At 
Kentville  we  are  71  miles  from  Halifax,  and  here  the  train  stops 
fifteen  minutes  for  refreshments.  From  the  station  we  may  take  the 
new  Cornwallis  Valley  R.  R.  for  Canning  and  the  apple-shipping  vil- 
lage of  Kingsport,  on  Minas  Dasin.  The  'fare  for  this  trip  is  50  cents ; 
return,  75  cents.  At  Kingsport  (single  fare,  $1 ;  return,  $1.60)  will 
be  found  a  seaside  resort  which  has  aptly  been  named  the  Newport 
of  Nova  Scotia.  Between  Kingsport  and  Parrsboro,  on  the  Cumber- 
lavl  shore,  the  Evaugeliae  Navigation  Company's  steamer  Evangeline 


I 


i 


WOLFVILLK   TO    ANNAPOLIS. 


259 

makes  daily  tripH  acroHH  tl.e  BaHin  of  Minus      Ph-nrv,-       a- 

r^M.nnr,.    *•       /.         ;     ^c)inc/c{8S  miles),  famous  for  its  Methodist 
Aylesford  L.,kos      H.  1.  wilderness  waters,  called  the 

Ayleslord  ,s  the  rifle  range  and  eamp  ground  cf  AldJr    o  't      K    I 
<on,es  Auburn  (90  n.iles),  and  then  Kings!  (95  mlet      A    .1  f ' 
from  /un<;sfon  is  tlie  pretty  villa^^e  of  Alolvem  T  Vu  '"^' 

noh  copper  and  iron  mines  in  its  vicinity  and  is  tL  ZVu\ 
niinii«  «f  +1      XT        r,      .  »»-iuuj,  ana  is  the  northwestern  ter- 

minus of  the  Nova  Scotia  Central  Railway      Its  chipf  ».«*  i  ! 

Anoannlj«  m^ra^      tu        .         .  '^      waieis  ol  the  historic 

^  nnapolis  R  ver.     There  is  a  hotel  here  called  the  mm  House 
Three  miles  farther  is  the  farming  and  lumbering  settlement  of /W 
<^  with  fine  granite  in  the  neighborhood.     Within  eT;  reach     rj 
capita!  trout-waters.    Next  we  come  to  Bridgetown   ulrlT   , 
Halifax  and  14  from  Annannlis      Ti  •    .-"""^^/^wn,  116  miles  from 
*  11  om  Annapolis.     This  is  a  stirring  little  town  of  somc- 


lis  Eiv 


«  ovc,.  1,,,0„  i„„„w„„„,  ,,  ,„^.  „^^j  ^,  ^^^.^^^.^^  ^__  ^^^^  ^ 
■t  lias  gooa  .vatei-power,  which  it  utilizes  ia  Xurmt 


Lnnapo- 
ure  and 


'I'm 

Ml 

m 


•h 


"O I'l' 


260 


ANNAPOLIS   TO    YARMOUTH. 


organ  factories.  The  surrounding  country  is  prospcroria  end  thickly 
settled,  wlilcli  gives  Uridgetown  a  large  local  trade.  In  the  Hvighbor- 
hood  is  Blondii  Brook,  so  called  from  a  massacre  of  New  England 
troops  by  the  French  and  their  Indian  allies.  The  chief  hotels  of 
Bridgetown  are  Chuh'\s  and  the  Grand  Central, 

From  Bridgetown  to  Anna|)()lis  is  the  prettiest  part  of  the  journey 
after  leaving  Kcnt\ille.  The  views  from  the  car-windows  are  full  of 
quiet  and  varied  charm — richly  wooded  slopes,  sunny  bits  of  meadow 
and  winding  river,  and  in  the  distance  the  blue  hills.  Midway  between 
Bridgetown  and  Annapolis  is  the  station  of  Roundhill. 


Annapolis  to  Yarmouth. 

At  Annapolis  we  arrive  about  one  o'clock.  If  wo  arc  going 
through  to  St.  John  we  stay  on  the  train,  which  presently  carries  us 
out  upon  the  steamboat  wharf.  The  old  historic  town  of  Annapolis, 
or  Annapolis  Jioi/al,  has  a  fair  and  sheltered  site,  and  we  fail  to  won- 
der that  it  attracted  the  regard  of  French  navigators  fresh  from  the 
rough  breast  of  Fundy.  The  Basin  was  discovered  by  that  expedition 
of  De  ^lonts  and  Champlain,  in  1G04,  that  went  on  to  foinid  the  ill-fated 
settlement  on  St.  Croix  Isla  id.  The  survivors  remembered  affection- 
atoly  the  lovely  shores  of  the  Basin,  and  fled  back  thither  from  St. 
Croix.  The  region  was  granted  to  Baron  Poutrineourt,  who  named  it 
Port  Royal;  and  in  1606  came  a  little  colony,  of  whom  the  leading 
spirit  was  one  Mark  Lcscarhof,  who  became  the  chronicler  of  the  set- 
tlement, lie  inaugurated  that  "  Order  of  a  Good  77;/;^,"  whose  high- 
hearted mirth  makes  so  bright  a  spot  in  those  annals  of  strife  and 
privation.  The  members  of  the  order  were  fifteen,  and  their  head 
was  the  "  steward,"  whose  oflice  was  held  for  a  day  at  a  time  by  each 
member  in  turn.  TJie  steward's  responsibility  was  heavy.  He  had  to 
prjvide  an  attractive  bill  of  fare  for  the  day's  dinner — and  material 
for  such  a  task  was  not  always  abundant  at  Port  Royal.  At  each  feast 
it  was  recpiisite  that  there  should  be  one  entirely  new  delicacy.  To- 
ward spring  the  wine  ran  low,  and  instead  of  three  quarts  to  each  mem- 
ber the  daily  allowance  was  reduced  to  one  poor  pint.  This  merry 
order  doubtless  did  much  to  keep  up  the  heart  of  the  lonely  little  colony 
during  the  long  and  trying  winter ;  and  only  three  deaths  occurred.  In 
the  month  of  January  the  order  went  on  a  six-mile  picnic,  to  see  if  the 
corn  they  bad  sown  in  ^'ovember  had  begun  to  sprout  beneath  the  snow ! 


ANNAPOLIS   TO   YARMOUTH.  201 

left  the  colony  and  osfal.li«),n  .  !  ''  '"  *"  "'•'""^  time 

wiuiij'  ana  established  a  new  sett  omenf  fnllnW  «♦   u 

Mount  Dosort.    Wlicn  this  wa,  deMr„n.dTv  !  Vi  ""■'  " 

speedily  laid  «st...    Tl,„8  l,e"an  in  1,  n  ,,,     ,   °'V"-"'''  "'""''  '"» 

'»"" K  'ill  »■■<  capture  by  Xew.En.d.„,L,  i„T^,      I       Z        "'"  '" 

Koyal  is  an  endloM  8ucee8si„n  r.f  ,„  7  '     ^  "'"'^  "'  P"" 

*:„e.tUr„t.u™;.'  ::::::;'ri'".r'r''';''"f''-™'-  '■ 

to;  and  though  fiom  thi,  d.tn  Zl      ,"'"'"'■'. '""'I',  "'ready  referred 

E"«i the  fou„:  ;t^ ;:: :  r  rk'::""'"'  "■  '."^  """*  °^ "'° 

-tate  of  «iego  ,,y  .he"h„.ti?eCiar;  d  idir  "';r.  'r""":' 

till  1781,  when  It  was  attpc-ked  in  the  ni-I.t  l-v  m..      *        • 

IV  and  ai.oVther';:;;.arS  I™;,:;: ':  iZ:;:: :'  -"r '"'  "'™- 

Fort  Bdward  at  Windsor     M„,.  „V ,  '  ""'""='■  "»  "  "'»° 

.ou..ide  Of  naiif,,,,  ,rrr:„rr  r  r^:  ::;r;tf  'vr-' 

enunont  at  the  ti.ne  of  confoderation,  in  18W  '""'"""  ""'■ 

Annapolis  had  in  188]  a  population  of  9  son      u     i  •  p  , 
the  ^«ft*,,  A„.eruan,  and  S™      Th  jf  ^  '"      '""''''  "'" 

and  .outh  stretch   the  sheltering,  high  green   ,v  I      „t  x!  ,::* 
N>uth  Mountains,  and  to  eastward  opens  the  magnifioont  e™Le  „f 

partly  ohstruete.,  hy  Ooat  ^^r  Si,::  t:JZJ:TlJ: 

P9fxt,!^-4;rn,:::tf-=t:- 

tance,  87  miles  •  farp  *9  fin     tu„  *i         i        .  ^^"""uin.     v\i,- 

YavmnJfh  o       '         '  ^  *'"'^""''  *''*'""«  ^""^''^^^  Halifax  and 

Yaimouth  are  a  great  convenience  to  tourists.     C/emenf snort  is  a    hfn 
m.  Village  in  the  neighborhood  of  rich  deposits  of T^tlL      These 


'r 


262 


ANNAPOLIS   TO   YARMOUTn. 


mines  were  worked  for  a  time  and  abandoned,  but  will  probably  be 
reopened  ere  long.  From  the  village  roads  run  inland  to  the  pietur- 
esque  Blue  Mountain  (held  sacred  by  the  Indians),  and  to  the  wonder- 
ful trout- waters  of  the  Liverpool  Lakes.  Bear  River,  9  miles  from 
Digby,  is  a  busy  little  shipping  port,  with  saw-mills  and  a  tannery.  It 
is  most  romantically  situated  in  a  deep  valley,  so  sheltered  that  Spring 
finds  her  way  thither  some  weeks  before  she  can  be  jjcrsuaded  to  smile 
on  the  rest  of  the  province.  The  time  to  visit  Bear  River  is  emphati- 
cally in  the  cherry-season — for  her  cherries  are  nowhere  to  be  sur- 
passed. 

It  is  a  lovely  sail  down  the  Basin  to  Digby,  on  the  calm  tide,  be- 
tween the  varied  and  many-colored  shores.  The  steamer  City  of  Mon- 
ticello,  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy  S.  S.  Co.,  is  a  huge  and  luxurious  boai. 
Uigby,  which  lies  on  a  curve  of  shore  just  beyond  the  opening  called 
Dighy  Gnf,  is  a  favorite  summer  resort,  and  well  supplied  with  hotels. 
The  chief  6f  these  is  the  Myrtle  House,  followed  by  the  Jioyal,  Crozier''s^ 
Shorfs,  ai  J  Dc  Bafiuhard^s.  Digby  has  the  invigorating  sea  air  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  which  is  only  3  miles  distant,  behind  the  mountain,  and 
is  free  from  the  fog  and  the  chill.  The  sea-bathing  is  good,  though 
colder  than  at  Annapolis,  and  there  is  good  sport  to  be  had  in  the  way 
of  salt-water  fishing;  while  the  boating,  of  course,  is  all  that  could  be 
wished.  Digby  has  a  population  of  about  1,2<>0,  and  is  extensively 
engaged  in  fisheries.  The  herring  known  as  "Digby  chickens"  are 
famous  throughout  the  Maritime  Provinces  for  their  delicacy.  A  prom- 
inent object  near  the  station  is  a  field  full  of  little  wooden  platforms,  on 
which  the  split  cod  are  dried  for  export.  The  pier  of  Digby  is  a  long 
and  lofty  structure,  at  different  portions  of  which  a  landing  is  effected, 
according  to  the  state  of  the  tide.  The  fluctuation  of  tide  here  is 
somewhere  about  40  ft.,  and  the  tremendous  currents  every  now  and 
then  work  disaster  for  the  pier,  which  seems  forever  being  rebuilt. 

The  traveler  who  is  bound  for  St.  John  turns  northwestward  from 
Digby.  After  steaming  a  couple  of  miles  along  a  fair  and  lofty  sloping 
shore,  the  steamer  enters  the  fine  scenery  of  Digby  Gut,  or,  as  it  was 
called  of  old,  St.  George's  Channel.  This  passage  is  a  gigantic  cleft  in 
the  North  Mountain,  nearly  2  miles  through,  and  about  half  a  mile  in 
width,  with  bold,  darkly-wooded  shores  from  500  to  600  ft.  in  height. 
On  the  eastern  slope  perch  a  few  airy  cottages,  making  up  an  ideal 
fishing  village ;  and  the  reddish-gray  lines  of  a  winding  road  seem  as  if 
they  were  painted  on  the  istecp  iueliiic.     Through  the  "  Gut "  sweep 


rihly  be 
pictur- 
vonder- 
L-a  from 
!ry.  It 
Spring 
,o  smile 
mplmti- 
bo  siir- 

ido,  be- 
of  Mon- 
is  boat. 
D?  called 
hotels. 
rozier^s, 
r  of  the 
lin,  and 
thoiifjh 
the  way 
ouUl  be 
jnsively 
»s"  are 
V  prom- 
)rms,  on 
J  a  long 
(ffected, 
here  is 
low  and 
lilt. 

rd  from 
sloping 
s  it  was 
cleft  in 
mile  in 
height, 
m  ideal 
?m  as  if 
'  sweep 


•»*fc>>l«»»«4*«fe«««^«.»^  ,...._ 


3 

a; 

3 

;5 


2 

V 


3 


3 
1 


ANNAPOLIS   TO    ZARMOUTIl. 


263 


3 

a; 

3 

;5 


2 

V 


3 


3 
1 


terrific  tulcs,  boiling  and  eddyinjr,  and  tossing  violently  the  flshorracn's 
boats  which  dot  its  surface.     The  Fundy  gate  of  the  passage  is  usually 
wh.te  with  su.f.     Digby  Gut  is  satisfying,  always,  to  the  lover  of  the 
picturesque  ;  but  it  is  never  more  so  than  when  one  enters  it  fron,  the 
bay  and  looks  through  its  grand  portals  into  the  favored  haven  beyond. 
The  fare  fron,    Digby   to   Yarmouth  is  «(2,  and   the  distance   67 
mdes.      The  railway  lies  son.e  .listance   back  from  the  coast,  along 
which  are  most  of  the  eettlements  ;  and  travelers  who  wish  to  visit 
the  picturesque  Acadian   district  of  Clare  may  do  so  very  conven- 
iently from  Weyn.outh   by  driving.      Clare   is  settled  by  returned 
Acadian  exiles,  and  maintains  its  i.eculiar  individuality  with  great  per- 
sistence.     It  is  almost  as  quaint  as  Chezzetcook.     The  settlements  are 
like  one  long  village  street,  for  miles  ;  and  back  of  the  cottages  run  the 
narrow  strips  of  the  oft-subdivided  farms.     The  district  lies  alon-  the 
shores  of  the  deep  bay  of  St  Ma.y\  whose  waters  arc  separated  "only 
by  a  narrow  isthmus  from  those  of  the  Annapolis  Basin.     The  bay  is 
divided  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy  by  the  long  line  of  mountains,  a  con- 
tinuation of  North  Mountain,  known  as  Digby  Neck.     This  curious 
peninsula,  which  is  only  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  in  width 
runs  20  miles  seaward,  and  is  continued  for  another  20  miles  by  Lonq 
Island  mii  Brier  Island.     The  Neck  and  the  Islands  are  settled  by  a 
picturesque  and  hardy  fishing  population,  whose  centers  are  the  quaint 
out-of-the-world   villages  of   Sandy  Cove,   Free  Port,  and    Westport 
reached  by  stage  and  ferries  from  Digby.     The  most  important  station 
on  the  Western  Counties  Railway,  after  leaving  Digby,  is  Weymouth 
a  remarkably  pretty  little  ship-building  town  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sk. 
stboo  River,  some  distance  ur.  St.  Mary's  Ray.     Wevraouth  has  a  large 
West  India  trade,  and  a  population  of  about  1,800.      Two  or  th-pe 
miles  up  the  river  is  the  village  of  Weymouth  Bridge.    The  chief  hotels 
are  Jones  s  and  the  American  Home.     A  short  distance  beyond  foam 
the  pretty  Sissiboo  Falls.     Soon  the  railroad  leaves  St.  Mary's  Bay 
and  strikes  through  a  rough  country  dotted  with  trout-waters,  to  Yar. 
mouth.     The  most  important  stations  on  this  section  of  the  line  are 
Metcghan,  Brazil  Lake,  Ohio,  and  Hebron.    Yarmouth  has  been  already 
described.     The  train  stops  at  Yarmouth  Station,  and  then  runs  down 
on  to  the  wharf  with  the  passengers  for  the  boat.     Presently  the  trav- 
eler finds  himself  moving  slowly  down  the  Yarmouth  River,  emerg- 
mg  from  whose  narrow  pass  the  boat  heads  straight  across  the  open 
Atlantic  fov  Boston. 


■I  1 1  mmmi^mmmmmmm'i' 


WESTERN    CANADA. 


II 


"'•3aKtB«MNw«.i.»... .. 


WESTERN  CANADA. 


In  that  part  cf  this  book  devoted  to  Eastern  Canada  a  fall  descrip- 
tion of  the  rrovinces  of  Ontario  and  of  Quebec,  and  of  the  Maritime 
Provinces,  including  Newfoundland,  is  given.  But  this  is  not  all  of 
the  mightj  empire  known  as  the  Dominion  of  Canada.  West  of  Onta- 
rio is  Manitoba,  and  beyond  are  Assiniboia  and  Saskatchewan.  Then 
comes  Alberta,  and  far  away  on  the  Pacific  Coast  are  British  Columbia 
and  V^ancouver's  Island,  whl^h  serve  to  separate  the  United  States  from 
its  northern  territory  of  Alaska.  The  journey  through  these  provinces 
is  described  in  the  following  pages.  The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  is 
the  iron  link  that  connects  the  East  with  the  West,  and  we  shall  follow 
that  route,  for  the  most  part,  in  our  trip  across  the  continent.  It  is 
the  chief  means  of  transportation,  and  with  its  branches  touches  all 
points  worthy  of  notice.  In  the  text  we  shall  continue  the  practice  of 
abbreviating  its  title  to  C.  P.  R. 

Montreal  is  the  great  railway  centre  of  Canada.  It  is  the  main 
terminus  of  the  C.  P.  R.,  and  from  it  through  trains  run  E.  and  W. 
and  S.  Mileage  is  counted  from  it.  A  full  description  of  it— the 
chief  city  of  Canada— has  already  been  given  on  pages  60  to  71  of  this 
book,  but  for  convenience  sake  mention  must  be  made  of  the  meth- 
ods  of  reaching  it.  From  Portland,  Me.,  it  may  bo  reached  by  the 
Grand  Trunk  Ry.,  and  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  to  Newport,  Vt.',  and 
thence  by  the  C.  P.  R.  From  Boston  there  is  a  choice  of  the  several 
White  Mountain  routes,  as  the  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  to  Newport  and 
thence  over  the  C.  P.  R.,  or  by  the  Concord  &  Montreal  R.  R.  to 
Wells  River  and  thence  over  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  to  St.  Johns, 
where  the  Grand  Trunk  Ry.  is  taken.  From  New  York  the  New 
York  Central  R.  R.  or  the  West  Shore  R.  R.  is  available  lo  Albany, 
where  connection  is  made  with  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  R.  R.  to  Rouse's 
Point,  and  thence  over  the  Grand  Trunk  Ry.  again ;  also  by  the  Adi. 
rondack  Div.  of  the  New  York  Central  R.  R.  by  w-av  of  St.  Constant. 


ill 


268 


FROM   MONTKEAL   TO   OTTAWA. 


Montreal  to  Ottawa. 

a.  By  the  Canadian  Pacific  Eailway. 

The  fiimoiis  trip  down  the  Ottawa  River,  with  its  tiiriliing  passage 
through  the  Lachiiie  Rapids,  has  aheady  been  described  on  page  53, 
but  tlie  westward  trip  by  the  0.  P.  R.  needs  brief  reference  at  this 
point.  Tlie  Pacific  Express  leaves  Montreal  daily,  except  Sundays,  for 
Otta^va,  and  makes  the  distance  of  120  miles  in  ',\%  hours.  The  same 
train  makes  the  distance  to  Vancouver  (2,900  miles)  in  exactly  5  days 
and  3  hours. 

As  the  train  leaves  Montreal  it  passes  the  long  freight  sheds,  ware- 
houses, and  grain  elevators  that  line  the  river  front,  and  in  5  minutes 
reaches  Montreal  Junction.,  a  fashionable  suburb  of  Montreal,  that  takes 
its  name  from  the  fact  that  it  is  the  railroad  junction  from  the  Mari- 
time Provinces,  Boston,  and  Portland,  and  all  trains  to  the  West.  An- 
other 5  minutes  brings  us  to  Sauli  aux  Recolhtu,  and  the  train  crosses 
a  branch  of  the  Ottawa.  French  names  abound  in  this  vicinity,  and  the 
next  station  is  <SV.  Martin  Junrtiou,  so  called  on  account  of  the  diver- 
gence of  the  line  to  Quebec.  The  N.  branch  of  the  Ottawa  is  crossed 
at  Ste.  Jiosc  (17  miles).  From  here  on,  the  line  follows  the  N.  bank 
of  the  Ottawa,  and  frequent  views  are  had  of  steamboats,  lumber 
barges,  and  rafts  of  timber  as  they  are  passed  on  its  broad  waters. 
The  valley  i.-;  divided  into  narrow,  well-tilled  French  farms,  mostly  de- 
voted to  dai.^  products.  Picturesque  villages  are  passed  at  intervals, 
and  streams  coming  down  from  the  Laurentian  Hills  on  the  N.  alford 
good  fishing.  At  Ste.  Thercse  three  branch  lines  diverge  to  St.  Lin., 
LabcUe,  and  St.  Eustachc.  At  Luclmte  (44  miles)  there  are  paper 
mills,  wood-working  and  other  industries,  and  it  is  a  shipping  point  for 
daily  products.  The  Ottawa  Valley  Ry.  runs  from  here  to  St.  Andrew, 
There  are  extensive  saw-mills  at  Calumet  (59  miles),  and  these  occur  at 
frequent  intervals.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  are  the  Caledonia 
I^Iineral  Springs — a  health  resort,  with  good  hotels  and  attractive  sur- 
roundings. From  Buckingham  (100  miles)  a  branch  extends  northward 
to  phosphate,  mica,  and  graphite  mines.  Soon  after  leaving  the  station 
the  main  line  of  the  railway  crosses,  by  an  iron  bridge,  directly  over  the 
magnificent  falls  of  the  Lievre  River.  After  crossing  the  Gatineau 
River  the  Government  Buildings  in  Ottawa  come  into  view  on  a  high 
cliff  at  the  left.     At  Hidl  (118  miles)  a  branch  diverges,  keeping  N. 


FROM   MONTREAL   TO   OTTAWA. 


2(59 


of  the  Ottawi.,  and  runs  through  Aylmer  to  Couh)ns(>.  L(!aving  Hull, 
the  main  line  swings  round,  crosses  a  long  iron  bridge,  from  where  li 
view  of  the  Chaudi5re  Falls  is  obtained,  and  enters  Ottawa. 

b.  Jii/  the  Canada  Atlantle  Ruilway. 

This  route  is  likewise   120  miles  long,  and   the  time  oeeupied  in 
making  the  trip  about  ^  hours.     The  train  leaves  Montreal   from  the 
Bonaventure  Station  and  follows  the  tracks  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Ry 
along  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River   to    Coteau  Junrtion   (iil) 
miles),  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Adirondack  Division  of  the 
New  York  Central  &  Hudson  J{.  R.,  and  with  the  branch  of  the  Canada 
Atlantic  that  extends  to  Rouse's  Point,  where  it  meets  the  Central  Ver 
mont  R.  R.  and  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  R.  R.     At  Si.  Pobjcarpc  June 
tlon  (45  miles)  the  C.  P.  ^l.  is  crossed,  and  at  Sic.  Justine  (51  miles)  the 
Province  of  Ontario  is  entered.     The  next  place  of  importance  is  Glen 
Jiober/.son  {r^6  miles),  where  a  branch  extends  21    miles  N.  to  Hawvs- 
bur,/,  passing  Vanklcek  IliU  (14  miles),  where  conveyances  may  be  had 
to   Cabdonia  /^^prinffs,  a  resort  where  the  waters  are  said  to  be  valu- 
able for  rheumatic  co>nplaints.     Alexandria  (02  miles)  is  the  half-way 
station.     It  is  a  small  manufacturing  town  of  nearly  2,000  inhabitants. 
The  remaining  stations  are  of  small  importance  tWl  Fas(man\s  Spriuffs 
(KHJ   miles)  is  reached.     This  resort  is  much  freciuented  by  the  resi- 
dents of  Ottawa.     As  the  tiain  approaches  the  city  a  «ne  view  of  the 
buildings  may  be  had  from  the  right,  and  after  crossing  the  tracks  of 
the  C.  P.  R.  and  the  Rideau  River  the  Elgin  Street  Station  in  Ottawa  is 
reached. 

Ottawa. 

A  full  desciiption  of  Ottawa  has  already  been  given  on  page  49, 
and  in  addition  to  the  routes  just  mentioned  as  coming  from  Montreal,' 
it  is  directly  accessible  from  the  S.  ))y  means  of  a  l)ranch  of  the' 
C.  P.  R.  that  extends  to  Prescott,  on  the  St,  Lawrence  River.  Ogdens- 
burg,  opposite,  on  the  American  side,  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
Rome,  VVatertown  &  Ogdensburg  R.  R.,  that  connects  with  the  New 
York  Central  R.  R.  at  Utica,  Rome,  Syi  juse,  Rochester,  and  Bufialo, 
tlius  affording  direct  access  from  the  chief  railroad  centres  of  the  United 
States.  There  are  also  Grand  Trunk  collections  from  Toronto  at  IJrock- 
ville  and  Prescott,  and  direct  connection  from  Toronto  over  the  C.  P.  R. 
by  way  of  Smilu's  Falls  and  Carietoii  Junction. 


(" 


270 


OTTAWA   TO    SUDBURY. 


I] 


Ottawa  to  Sudbury. 

Leaving  Ottawa,  the  C.  V.  H.  follows  the  S.  l)ank  of  the  Ottawa 
River  for  several  miles,  aiul  on  its  wide  stietohes  may  be  seen  enormous 
(juantities  of  saw-logs  held  in  "  booms  "  for  the  use  of  the  mills  below. 
The  little  villages  of  Skead  and  Briiaunia  are  passed,  and  the  river  dis- 
appears  as  the  train  contin\ies  to  the  S.      Several  stations  come  in 
sight  and  are  quickly  left  behind  until    Carhtoii  Pliwe  (148  miles)  is 
reached.     Here  are  large  saw-mills,  railway  and  other  workshojjs.     It 
is  also  the  junction  of  the  main  line  with  the  Ottawa  and  Brockville 
section  that  extends  45  miles  to  Brockville,  where,  after  crossing  the  St. 
Lawrence  River,  Morristown,  on  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg 
R.  R.,  is  reached.     Sn^ith's  Falls,  13  miles  S.  of  Carleton  Place,  on 
the  Brock\  ille  section,  is  a  junction  on  the  Ontario  and  Quebec  division 
bt;tween  Montreal  and  Toronto.     Returning  to  the  main  line  and  after 
leaving  Carleton  the  route  i^  in  a  northwesterly  direction  and  through 
the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Ottawa,  which  for  a  hundred  or  more  miles 
is  well  cultivated  by  English,  Scotch,  and  German  farmers.     Large, 
clear  streams  come  rushing  down  to  the  river  from  the  hills  in  the  W., 
and  in  these  tine  tishing  is  to  be  had,  especially  maskinonge,  trout,  and 
bass.      At  Ahnonle  there  are   large  woollen  mills,  and  I'akenham,  8 
miles  beyond,  is  another  numufacturing  point.     Jicnfrcir,  69  miles  from 
Ottawa,  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Kingston  &  Pembroke  Ry.,  that 
extends  104  miles  S.  through  a  district  abounding  in  iron  to  Kings- 
ton on  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  At- 
lantic and   Northwestern   branch,  that  extends  23  miles  to  Eganville. 
Renfrew  is  a  lively  town  of  some  3,(H)0  inhabitants.     The  road  then 
curves   to  the  N.  and   reaches  the  river  again  near  Pembroke  (224 
miles)  {CopeUmd  Hotel),  the  chief  place  of  the  Upper  Ottawa  N'alley.    It 
has  nearly  5,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  seat  of  numerous  industrial  es- 
tablishments and  several  saw-mills.    The  river  expands  here  into  a  broad 
sheet  called  Allumette  Lake,  and  is  a  famous  locality  for  trout  fishing. 
The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  tine,  especially  at  the  nariows  at  the  head 
of  the  lake.     C'hamplain  ascended  the  Ottawa  River  in  canoes  as  far  as 
this  point  in  U)13.     From  Pembroke  to  Mattawa  the  distance  is  94 
miles,  and  the  route  is  almost  entirely  along  the  W.  bank  of  the  livcr. 
The  chief  industry  of  this  region  is  lumber,  and  saw-mills  occu;'  ^vher- 
ever  water  power  is  available,  forming  centres  around  which  the  few 
iuhabitauts  cluster.    Aa  the  couiitry  grows  wilder  the  oppovt-aDUies  for 


OTTAWA   TO    SUDBURY. 


271 


sport  with  K»n  and  rod  increase.  Chalk  River  is  a  divisional  pc.int, 
with  engine-house  and  the  usual  railway  buildiuKH,  and  also  a  restau- 
rant.    Rockliffe  and  Khck  are  the  larger  stations. 

Mattawa,  ;n8  miles  {Wo^Um  Hotel),  an  important  distributing 
ponit  for  the  lumber  regions,  at  the  junction  of  the  Ottawa  and  Mattawa 
Rivers  (hence  its  name,  signifying  "  The  Fcrks  "),  was  formerly  a  trad- 
ing post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.     It  is  a  favourite  centre  for  moose 
hunters,  and  guides  and  supplies  for  shooting  expeditions  may  always 
be  obtained  here.     Lake  Temiscamingue  is  40  miles  to  the  N.,  toward 
which  a  branch  of  the  road  is  being  built,  and  has  already  reached 
Long  SauU  (31  miles),  with  a  branch  to  Lake  Kippewa.     To  the  S. 
of  the  railway  is  Algoncpiin  Park  (12  miles),  a  picturesque  tract  of 
land  of  1,406  s(iuare  nnles,  that  was  set  apart  bv  the  (Government 
of  Ontario  in  1893  for  the  preservation  of  game  aiid  forests  and  as  a 
public  pleasure  and  health  resort.     After  leaving  Mattawa  the  route 
passes  through  a  somewhat  wild  and  broken  country,  with  frequent  lakes 
and  rapid  streams,  towards  Lake  Nipissing.     Callamhr  (344  miles)  was 
originally  intended  as  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  C.  P.  R.,  to  which 
connecting  roads  would  run ;  but  with  the  transfer  of  control  from  the 
Government  to  the  corporation  the  line  was  extended   to  Montreal. 
Nlpimng  Junction  is   the   point  where   the   Grand  Trunk  Ry.  from 
Toronto,  after  passing  through  the  region  of  Lake  Simcoe   and  the 
Muskoka  lakes,  reaches  the  track  of  the  C.  P.  R.  on  its  way  to  North 
Bay  {Pacific  Hotel),  the  terminus  of  the  Grand  Trunk  extension.     This 
place  is  on  Lake  Nipissing,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  40  miles  hmg  and 
10  miles  wide,  with  forest  clad  shores  and  islands.     Small  steamers  ply 
on  the  lake,  and  boats  for  sailing  and  rowing  are  easilv  procurable.     Its 
waters  contain  the  maskinonge,  pike,  bass,  and   pickerel,   and   good 
shootmg  can  be  had  in  tlie  surrounding  country.     North  Bay  is  a  rail- 
way divisional  point,  and  contains  the  usual  repair  shops.     Tlie  route  con- 
tinues along  the  north  shore  of  the  lake  past  several  unimportant  stations 
until  Cache  Bay  is  reached,  and  then  turns  slightly  to  the  N.,  passing 
through  a  comparatively  wild  region  where  forests,  meadows,  lakes  and 
rocky  ridges  alternate.     The  scenery  is  striking,  and  at  places  extremely 
mterestmg.     Bear,  moose,  and  deer  abound  throughout  this  territory, 
and  the  fisluug  in  the  many  lakes  and  rivers  is  excellent.     The  principal 
mdustry  of  this  region  is  timber  cutting.     Sudbury  (443  miles),  the  ter- 
mmus  of  the  division,  is  an  important  centre.     The  most  extensive  copper 
and  nickel  deposits  in  the  world,  perhaps,  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 


IwfV. 


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jiV^mmf  mmmw 


272 


SUDBURY   TO   8AULT   8TE.    MARIE. 


Smelting  furnaces  have  been  erected  for  the  reduction  of  the  ores  on 
the  spot.  It  U  interesting  to  note  that  from  these  metalliferous  depos- 
its the  only  known  native  salts  of  platinum  have  ever  been  found. 
There  is  a  railroad  restaurant  at  the  station,  and  a  hotel  in  the  town. 
The  population  is  about  1,700. 

Sudbury  to  Sault  Ste.  Marie. 

From  Sudbury  a  branch  extends  westward  182  miles  to  Sault  Ste. 
Marie.  The  route  has  no  special  features,  and  the  stations  are  unim- 
portant until  Alyoma  Mills  is  reached.  Here  Lake  Huron  comes  in 
sight,  and  the  town  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  important  lumbering 
ports  on  the  lake.  Thereafter  the  lake  continues  in  view  until  Bruce 
Mines  is  reached.  Formerly  the  copper  deposits  existing  here  were 
worked.  Sault  Ste.  Marie  [Inter iiational  Hotel),  in  Ontario,  is  a  small 
place,  and  is;  connected  by  means  of  an  iron  bridge  a  mile  long  over 
Sault  River  with  Hault  Ste.  Marie  in  Michigan,  which  is  the  eastern 
terminus  of  the  Duluth,  South  Shore,  &  Atlantic  Ry.  running  to  Du- 
luth,  and  with  the  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  &  Sault  Ste.  Marie  Ry.  run- 
ning to  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis.  Through  trains  from  Sudbury  to  Sault 
Ste.  Marie  make  the  trip  in  6  hours,  and  it  is  not  necessary  to  change 
cars  for  points  in  the  United  States.  For  those  who  prefer  it  the  steam- 
ers of  the  C.  P.  S.  S.  line  are  available  for  a  trip  across  Lake  Superior, 
connecting  again  at  Fort  William  with  the  main  line  of  the  C.  P.  R. 


Sudbury  to  Winnipeg. 

With  our  faces  turned  to  the  W.  we  leave  Sudbury  and  start  on  a 
long  journey  of  981  miles.  As  we  leave  the  little  town  the  train  passes 
over  the  falls  of  the  Sturgeon  River,  and  our  direction  is  to  the  N. 
W.  Rivers  and  lakes  are  passed,  and  at  Lara-  :ood  (461  miles)  we 
reach  Vermilion  Lake.  As  the  approach  is  made  to  Onaping  the  high 
falls  (150  ft.)  of  the  Vermilion  River  come  in  sight,  and  an  excellent 
view  of  thera  is  obtained  from  the  cars.  Cartier  (4T8  miles)  is  a  divi- 
sional point,  with  a  restaurant  and  various  railroad  structures.  It  was 
once  a  trading  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.  From  here  to  Biscotasing 
(532  miles)  the  scenery  is  remarkably  fine.  Biscotasing  is  on  an  irreg- 
ular lake  of  the  same  nanie,  and  although  its  population  does  not  ex- 
ceed 500,  it  has  a  large  trade  in  furs  and  lumber.    Ever  onward  the 


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NORTH    SHORE   OF   LAKK   fllPERFOR. 


273 


non  Htced  hurries,  haUi„«  I.ero  Hn.l  tbore  for  a  brief  mon.ent  at  ««,„o 
obHcure  8t«ti(,n,  ,,nic-klv  cnmninK  brid^os  over  swiftly  running  rivers 
whose  strc-an.s  rush  t,.  a.hl  thdr  waters  to  th<,se  of  the  Great  Lakes  and 
past  lonely  h.kes  wh<.se  virgi,,  waters  still  await  the  white  H.hernmn. 
J-nially  Chnnhan  ((Ur,  miles),  on   Lake  KinojrM.na,  is  reaehed.     It  is  a 
divisional  point,  and  has  the  usual  railway  workslu.ps,  with  eottaees  for 
the.  „,en  and  their  families.     There  is  a  restaurant  at  the  stati(,n.     At 
Windermere  (.141  nnles),  near  Lake  Mipissi,  there  are  iron  niines,  and 
after  crossinj.  Dofr  L„ke  the  station  of  Mi^mnahic  (<m  miles,  is  reaehed 
Tins  point  was  well  known  loi.f,'  hefure  the  days  of  the  railroad   f.,r  it 
was  a  rcndetvom  of  the  ,-ov«y.«nv  who  h-m.^ht  their  furs  Iron. 'the  N 
up  the  waters  of  .,.e  Moose  River  (that  flows  to  Hudson    Hay)  and 
thence  by  short  portage  to  Dog  Lake,  whose  outlet,  the  Michipieoten 
River,  leads  t..  Lake  Superior.     Gold  mines  have  rec-ntly  been  discov- 
ered  to  the  S.  of  this  point.     F..r  some  distance  b<.yond  there  are  no 
points  of  spe<-ial   interest,  although  the   numerous   railroad   cuttings 
testify  to  the  skill  of  the  engineers  by  whom  the  railroad  was  built 
White  River  (747  miles)  is  a  divisional  point,  with  the  accompanying 
worksho,,s  and  railroad  restaurant.     There  are  also  large  cattle-yards 
here  that  are  used  to  rest  the  live  stock  in  on  their  way  to  the  Eastern 
markets.     The  route  continues  along  the  left  bank  of  the  White  River 
which  it  crosses  at  Bremmer  (7(i;5  miles),  and  then  passes  Round  Lake' 
where  good  fishing  is  to  be  had.     The  Big  Pic  River  is  crossed  bv  J 
high  iron  bridge,  and  a  mile  beyond  is  Heron  Bay  (802  miles)  on  the 
northeast  end  of  Lake  Superior.  ' 


North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior. 

For  60  miles  beyond  this  point  the  route  is  continued  through 
and  around  the  bold  and  harsh  promontories  of  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Superior,  with  deep  rock  cuttings,  viaducts,  and  tunnels  constantly  oc- 
curring, and  at  interv  Is  where  the  railway  is  cut  out  of  the  face  of 
the  cliffs  the  lake  comes  into  full  view.  The  scenery  is  an  important 
consideration  on  this  part  of  the  journey  and  in  order  that  the  tourist 
may  enjoy  it  as  much  as  possible  the  time  schedule  is  arranged  for  the 
westward  trip  so  that  the  lake  views  may  be  enjoyed  by  daylight 
Pemmula{U\  mile.s)  is  a  small  station  on  the  lake,  and  then  comes 
the  sweep  around  Jackfish  Ray,  which  is  of  special  interest  on  account 
of  the  scenery.  The  bay  itself  is  a  great  fi.hlBg  resort,  and  its  water. 
18 


11 


274 


NORTH    HllORE   OF    LAKE    HUPERIOR. 


abound  in  white  fish,  Hturgooii,  and  the  fanioiiH  hike  trout.  Sclirfiher 
(K<)5  nnloH)  is  a  divisional  pdiiit,  and  the  home  of  one  of  the  superintend- 
ents It  is  also  a  eonvonient  idace  to  start  from  on  a  fishing  expedi- 
tion.  The  lake  turns  inward  from  here  to  form  Nepii^on  Hay,  which 
is  separated  from  the  lake  by  a  group  of  ishunls,  the  largest  of  which 
is  St.  Ignaf'e.  Sonie  of  the  heaviest  work  on  the  entire  line  of  the  rail- 
way occurs  in  this  vicinity,  especially  just  beyond  Jio.suporf  {HH{)  miles). 
The  constantly  changing  views  on  Nepigon  Hay  are  chainiing.  All  of  the 
streams  emptying  into  Lake  Superior  contain  speckled  trout  in  plenty, 
and  in  some  of  the  streams,  Nepigon  lliver  es|)ecially,  they  are  noted 
for  their  large  size — six-pounders  being  not  uncommon.  The  river  is 
a  beautiful  stream,  well  known  to  sportsmen,  and  is  crossed  l»y  a  fine 
iron  bridge  a  little  before  reaching  the  station.  At  its  mouth  on  fhe  bay 
is  the  station  of  Ncpi(/(>n,  '.»29  miles  ( 7ai/lor''s  Ilohi).  Three  miles 
bey()nd  Nepigon  the  railway  turns  around  the  base  of  Red  Rock,  a 
high,  bright-red  clitl",  and,  avoiding  the  heads  of  Black  Hny  and  Thun- 
der Bay,  takes  a  straight  southwesterly  coiu'se,  and  from  the  higher 
elevations  doUghtful  views  of  Thunder  Bay  are  to  be  had.  A  few  un- 
important stations  are  passed,  and  then  we  reach  Port  yl /•//«<;•,  99.'}  miles 
[The  Not'tJurn),  a  lake  town  of  some  ;i,00()  inhabitants,  with  steamboat 
connection  tri-weekly  with  Sault  Ste.  Marie  and  Duluth.  The  steamers 
of  the  C.  P.  S.  S.  line  for  Fort  William  also  stop  here.  Besides  its  oppor- 
tunities for  fishing  there  is  excellent  shooting  to  be  had  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, including  bears,  deer,  and  even  moose  and  caribou.  Since  1882 
some  interest  has  been  developed  in  the  gold  and  silver  mines  in  the 
vicinity.  It  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Port  Arthur,  Duluth,  & 
Western  Ry.  that  runs  S.  to  the  Iron  Range.  Five  miles  beyond 
is  Fort  William,  998  miles  {Kaininistiqiiia  Hotel).  It  is  on  the  Kami- 
nistiquia  River,  a  deep,  broad  stream  with  firm  banks,  a  few  miles 
above  its  mouth  on  Lake  Superior,  thus  affording  great  advantages  foi: 
lake  traffic.  The  town  is  pleasantly  situated.  A  long  promontory  of 
basaltic  rock  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  called  the  "  Sleeping 
Giant,"  whose  Indian  legend  takes  one  back  to  aboriginal  days,  ter- 
minates in  Thunder  Cape,  behind  which  lies  the  famous  Silver  Islet, 
which  has  yielded  almost  fabulous  wealth.  Pie  Island,  another  moun- 
tain of  columna-  basalt,  divides  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  which  is 
flanked  on  the  W.  by  Mackay  Mountain,  overlooking  Fort  William. 
Looking  W.,  between  Pie  Island  and  Thunder  Cape,  Isle  Royale  may 
te  seen  in  the  distance.     It  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  eastern 


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NORTH   8II011E   OF   LAKE   SUPERIOR. 


275 


division   «t    tl.e   C.  P.  H.  and   of  the  V.  P.  S.  S.  line,  so  that  „as. 
sengeps  for  the  extreme  W.  who  followed  the  route  from  Smlburv  to 
^ault  Ste.  Mane  and  there  took  the  steamer  now  return  to  the  tmin 
The  station  is  oonnecte.l  with  the  wharf  by  means  of  a  foot-bri.l.re" 
On  the  nver  banks  in  recent  years  three  large  grain  elevators,  with^  a 
capacity  of  nearly  3,'750,0()(.  bushels,  have  been  built.     Fort  William  is 
the  natural  outlet  for  largo  quantities  of  grain  that  come  from  Mani- 
toba and  the  Northwest  Territories  to  be  shij.ped  to  the  various  lake 
ports.     The  settlement  is  an  old  one  and  dates  back  to  the  last  cen- 
tury.    In  1801  u  became  a  port  of  the  Hudson  IJay  Co.,  to  which  the 
Indians  came  in  their  canoes  down  the  Kaministi,,uia  Kiver  and  con- 
necting streams  to  sell  their  furs.     The  fur  house  of  the  old  fort  is  now 
used  as  an  engine-house  for  the  coal  docks.     West-bound  passengers 
shou  d  set  their  watches  back  one  hour  in  conformity  with   central 
standard  time,  and  from  here  on  the  twenty-four  hour  'time  system  is 
in  use-that  IS,  time  is  reckoned  continuously  from  midnight"  to  mid- 
night; thus  1  p.  M.  is  called  13  o'clock. 

After  leaving  Fort  William  the  train  passes  a  ie^v  miles  of  partially 
cleared  farm  land,  and  then  plunges  into  a  wild,  broken  region  that 
continues  for  hun.lreds  of  miles.     The  route  passes  many  lakes  ana 
crosses  rapid  rivers.     Forests  with  valuable  timber  come  and  go  as  the 
train  pushes  onward,  and  mineral  deposits,  the  wealth  of  which  is  vet 
to  be  developed,  fade  in  the  distance  as  the  journey  westward  contin- 
ue.s.     JIunl/o  (1,011  „.iles)  is  the  railway  crossing  of  the  Port  Arthur 
Duluth,  and  Western  Ry.  that  runs  to  the  Rabbit  Mountain  silver  min' 
ing  district.     The  Kakabcka  Falls,  formed  by  the  Kaministiquia  River 
are   4    miles  from    the   station.     They  are   i;iO  ft.  high  and  450  ft' 
wide      The  railway  follows  the  river  for  some  distance,  and  excellent 
trout  hshing  IS  to  be  had  near  the  stations.    It  was  through  this  region 
that  Wol.eley  led  his  army  from  Fort  William  to  Winnipeg  in  1870 
using  the  more  or  less  connected  rivers  and  lakes  much  of  the  way     Sta- 
tions are  parsed  at  regular  intervals,  but  they  are  only  "  water  tanks 
and  footprints-little  else."     Some 'of  their  names-Mnnark  (Um 
miles),  AorMund  (1,049  miles).  Linkoopbu;  (1,059  miles),  UjmlanmO 
miles),  and  .Xil,!ock  (1,096  miles)_indicate  their  settlement  by  immi- 
grants from  Scandinavia,     fyr.ace  (1,146  miles)  is  a  divisional  point 
with  a  restaurant  at  the  station.    The  Wabigoon  River  soon  comes  in 
sight,  and  the  train  continues  along  its  banks,  past  numerous  lakes 
that  are  noted  chiefly  for  the  excellent  fishing  they  a.Tord,  and  their 


276 


MANITOBA. 


Stations.     At  Eagle  Rivn-  (1,226  mile.s)  there  are  two  waterfalls  that 
may  be  seen,  one  above  and  the  other  below  the  railway.     The  route 
passes  through  numerous  rocky  uplifts,  and  the  scenery  is  often  of  the 
wildest  description,  with  deep,  rock-bound  lakes  continuously  in  sight. 
Rat  Portage  (1,291  miles)  is  an  important  town  of  2,000  'inhabitants, 
with  several  large  saw-mills,  on  the  principal  outlet  of  the  Lake  of  the 
Woods.     This  lake,  65  miles  long  and  from  10  to  50  miles  wide,  is  the 
largest  body  of  water  touched  by  the  railway  between  Lake  Superior 
and  the  Pacific,  and  is  the  chief  waterway  to  the  gold  fields  of  the 
Rainy  Lake  district.    It  is  studded  with  islands,  and  is  a  favorite  resort 
for  sportsmen  and  pleasure  seekers.     Its  waters  break  through  a  nar- 
row  rocky  rim  at  Rat  Portage  and  Keewatln  and  fall  into  the  Winnipeg 
River.     The  cascades  are  most  picturesque,  and  have  been  utilized  for 
water-power  for  a  number  of  large  saw-mills,  while  at  the  lower  end  it 
connects  with  Rainy  Lake  by  the  Rainy  River.     Steamers  leave  Rat 
Portage  nearly  every  day  in  summer  for  Fort  Francis  and  the  Rainy 
Lake  Region.     The  falls  of  the  Winnipeg  are  seen  to  the  right  as  the 
train  passes  over  the  open-work  bridge  on  leaving  Rat  Portage.     A 
steam  ferry  connects  Kceundn  (1,295  miles)  (noted  for  its  huge  flour- 
mill,  built  of  granite  quarried  on  the  spot)  and  Rat  Portage.     l7iffoI/ 
(1,322  miles)  is  the  last  station  in  Ontario,  and  2'elford  (1,333  miles) 
the  first  in  Manitoba.     At  WIdtcmouth  (1,363  miles),  on  the  river  of  the 
same  name,  that  empties  in  the  Winnipeg  a  few  miles  to  the  N\,  are 
more  saw-mills.     The  country  now  flattens  out  and  gradually  assumes 
the  characteristics  of  a  prairie.     Little  farms  and  pastures  come  in 
sight.     At  East  Selkirk  (1,403  miles)  a  Government  fish  hatchery  has 
been  established,  and  here  the  route  turns  southward,  following  the  line 
of  the  Red  River  of  the  North  to  St.  Boniface,  where  the  river  is  crossed 
by  a  long  iron  bridge,  and  Winnipeg  is  reached. 


Manitoba. 

This  province  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Saskatchewan  and  Keewatin, 
on  the  E.  by  Ontano,  on  the  S.  by  the  States  of  Minnesota  and  North 
Dakota,  and  on  the  W.  by  Assiniboia.  From  E.  to  W.  it  extends 
about  300  miles,  and  it  covers  an  area  of  '73,956  square  miles.  Ac- 
cording to  the  census  of  1891,  it  had  a  population  of  152,506,  which  has 
since  been  materially  increased  by  immigration.  Its  S.  boundary  being 
the  forty-ninth  parallel  of  latitude,  it  is  therefore  S.  of  Great  Britain, 


WINNIPEG. 


277 


but,  notwithstanding,  it  suffers  extremes  of  climate.    The  summer  mean 
.s  from  65    to  6r  F.,  but  in  winter  it  sometimes  falls  to  30",  and  even 
50  ,  below  zero.     The  atmosphere,  however,  i .  bright  and  dry,  and  the 
sensation  erf  cold  is  not  so  >'.npleasant  as  that  of  a  cold  temperature  in 
a  hum.d  atmosphere.     The  general  features  of  the  province  are  those 
of  a  broad,  rolhng  prairie,  relieved  at  intervals  by  gently  rising  hills 
and  numerous  bluffs  and  '.kelets.    Manitoba  is  therefore  essentially  an 
agncultural  country.      The   soil   is  a   firm,   rich,   black,   argillaceous 
mou  d  or  loam,  restmg  in  a  deep  rnd  very  tenacious  clay  subsoil      It  is 
nearly    If  not  quite,  the  wettest  soil   m  the  world,  and  is  especially 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  wheat.     In  1891  it  was  estimated  that  the 
crop   of  wheat  alone  available  for   export   was    20,000,000    bush-Is 
Small  fruits,  such  as  strawberries,  raspberries,  currants,  gooseberries* 
cranberries,  plums,  etc.,  are  plentiful.     The  prairie  farms   are  weU 
adapted  to  the  raising  of  horses  and  cattle,  and  since  1891  cattle  have 
been  regularly  exported  from  Manitoba  to  England.     The  raising  of 
pigs  and  sheep  is  attracting  attention,  and  dairy  farming  is  engaging  an 
increasing  amount  of  interest.     To  the  sportsman  the  beautiful  flocks 
of  prairie  chickens,  and  the  mallard,  the  teal,  the  butter-ball,  the  red-head 
and  other  varieties  of  duck  are  among  the  attractions,  while  those  who 
fancy  larger  game  find  the  deer,  the  b'ack  and  cinnamon  bear,  the  elk 

n  Vr^r  w  '\"  T'"'"' '"  ''""''"^^-  ^"''  "^'°^«  have  been  opened' 
m  the  S.  W.  end  of  the  province.  Important  cities,  like  Winnipeg 
Brandon,  and  Portage  la  Prairie,  offer  market  opportunities,  and 
Winnipeg  especia  ly  affords  educational  advantages  of  unusu  1  ex- 
cellence  The  railroad  facilities  are  very  good,  and  Winnipeg-is  the 
chief  railroad  centre.  Besides  the  C.  P.  R.  and  its  branches,  the  North, 
ern  Pacific  and  the  Great  Northern  R.  Rs.  afford  communication  with 
the  a,  while  the  Manitoba  and  Northwestern  Ry.  is  pushing  its  wav  to 
tbe  N.     \\  mnipeg  is  the  seat  of  government. 


!m 


Winnipeg^. 

Hotels.— The  Mnmfoba,  over  the  Northern  P..n5fin  o   u     *  ^- 

ffh  St  %:^{/^^'''.T'\  ^'  t^  $^f  cCxtptfagf!  r 

478  Main  St  railway  stations,  there  is  the  Criterion, 

«u  be  had  at  the  stations,  and  25  oents  is  the  charge  for  te  or  two 


278 


WINNIPEG. 


pasM^ngers  for  i^liort  distances  not  exceeding  ten  minutes,  as  from  sta- 
tion to  station.     Hy  the  iiour,  75  <'<'nts. 

Railway  Stations.— The  Union  Station,  on  Main  St.  and  11th 
Ave.,  Nortii,  is  used  l)y  the  ('.  P.  R.  and  all  roads  except  the  North- 
ern  racific  R.  R.,  wliose  station  is  on  tlie  corner  of  Main  and  Water 
Sts. 

The  Post  Office  is  on  the  corner  of  Main  and  Owen  Sts. ;  is  open 
from  8  A.  M.  to  7  v.  m. 

Club.-  The  Manitoba  Club  is  in  Second  St.,  South. 

Winnipop,  the  capital  of  Manitoba,  is  on  a  flat  plain  at  the  junction 
of  the  Assiiiiboine  and   Red  Rivers,  both  of  which  are   navigable  by 
steamers ;  the  latter  extends  about  40  miles  N.  to  Lake  Winnipeg,  a 
great  inland  sea  resembling  the  U.  S.  (Jreat  Lakes,  some  260  miles  long 
and  from  5  to  (iO  miles  in  width.     It  was  the  Fort  Garry  of  tlie  Hudson 
Bay  Co.,  and  had  a  population  of  alxmt  200  in  1870,  which  increased 
to  7,98f)  in  1881,  aiui  lo  25,042  in  1801,  while  now  (1895)  it  has  a  popu- 
lation of  upwards  of  30,000.     The  name  Winnipeg,  which  it  took  in 
1881,  is  derived  from  tua  Indian  Ouinipigon,  signifying  muddy  water. 
The  streets  are  wide  and  well  laid  out.     They  were  renamed  on  a  nu- 
merical system  in   1890.     Many  of  the  buildings  are  substantial  and 
worthy  of  notice.    Conspicuous  among  them  is  the  City  Hall,  on  Main 
St.,  ni  front  of  which  stands  a  mctnonal  coluinii  that  has  been  erected  in 
memory  of  the  volunteers  who  fell  in  the  rebellion  in  1885.    Near  by  is 
the  Market,  and  the  Om'm  Excknnyc,  with  the  Board  of  'Trade,  are  in 
the  immediate  vicinity.    The  Post  q^pce  building,  the  Cuntom  House,  and 
the  site  of  old  Fort  Garry  are  all  on  Main  St.     The  Hudmn  Baij  Co.'s 
Stores  are  interesting,  and  the  history  of  their  early  trading  is  the  con- 
necting link  between  the  past  and  the  pi-esent.     The  Parliament  House 
on  Broadway,  with  the  residence  of  the  Lieiitenatit-  Uovernor,  and  Fort 
Osborne,  the  military  head(iuarters,  together  with  the  Court  House  and 
the  Pnmneial  Jail,  are  in  the  vicinity.     Among  the  churches  are  All 
Suirits\  'Prinitt/,  St.  Manfs,  Graee,  and  Knox  Church.    The  institutions 
for  higher  education  include  .}funito(Ht  College,  St.  John's  Episeopal  Col- 
lege, and  the  Manitoba  Medical  College.     The  Citg  Hospital  and  the 
Provincial  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institute  are  conspicuous  among  the  elee- 
mosynary institutions.     Diifferin  Park  and   Elm  Park  are  two  small 
pleasure  grounds  that  have  already  been  laid  out,  and  other  plots  are 
in  process  of  being  acquired  and  beautified.     Winnipeg  is  also  an  im- 
portant railway  centre.     It  contains  the  chief  workshops  of  the  C.  P.  R. 
between  Montreal  and  the  Pacific,  and  the  Northern  Pacifif^  R.  R.  have 


WINNIPEG. 


270 


their  terminal  workshops  here.     It  is  the  chief  land  office  of  the  Do- 
minion in  the  \V.,  and  the  principal  land  olHces  of  the  C  P  R  are  in 
the  Union  Station.     Northward  the  C.  P.  R.  has  a  branch  running  82 
mile-s  to  West  Sc/kirk,  also  one  to  the  N.  W.   20  miles  to  Slonmall 
Also   to   the  N.   the  Hudson  Bay  R.   R.   extends   40   miles  to  Shoal 
Lake.     The  Manitoba  and  Northwestern  R.  R  of  Canada  follows  the 
track  of  the  main  line  of  the  0.  P.  R.  to  Fortaffe  la  Prairie,  where  it 
connects  with  a   branch   of   the  Northern   Pacific   R.  R.,  and   turns 
to  the  N.  W.,  finding  its  northern  terminus  in  Vorl^-iown,  Assiniboia 
279  miles  from   Winnipeg.     The  C.  P.  R.  has  two  branches  leading 
southward,  one  on  the  east  side  of  the  Red  River  to  Emerson  {Gi>  miles) 
and  the  other  to  Grefna  (69  miles),  on  the  U.  S.  boundary,  connecting  at 
the  latter  point  with  the  train  service  of  the  Great  Northern  R  R     Two 
branch  lines  of  the  C.  P.  R.  go  S.  W.  to  Souri^  and  A^apinka  in  south- 
ern Manitoba,  150  and  221  miles  distant  respectively,  and  there  connect 
with  the  branch  line  from  Iirandn„  (connecting  also   here  with  the 
Northern  Pacific  R.  R.)  through  to  Esfevan,  the  junction  with  the  new 
Soo-Pacific  line  that  runs  eastward  to  Saulf  S(e.  Marie. 

A  branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  from  St.  Paul  leaves  the 
main  line  at  Winmpeff  Junction  in  Minnesota  and  extends  to  Winnipeg 
passing  through  Grand  Forks  and  Pembina. 


I! 


Winnipeg  to  Regina. 

A  stop  of  two  and  a  half  hours  is  usually  made  in  Winnipeg  and 
then  the  train  starts  westward  again.     On  leaving  the  city  the  country 
seems  level  and  bare.    It  is  unoccupied,  becauee  the  land  is  largely  held 
by  speculators,  and  the  few  farms  that  are  p.s..ed  are  devoted  to  dairv 
products   and    cattle   breeding.      After  leaving  Poplar  Point   (1,464 
miles)  farms  appear  almost  continuously,  and  the  prairie  during  harvest 
time  affords  the  monotonous  sight  of  the  wheat  that  eloquently  though 
silently  testifies  to  the  great  richness  of  the  soil.     The  line  of  trees  to 
the  8.  marks  the  course  of  the  Assiniboine  River,  which  the  railway 
follows  for  a  little  over  100  miles.    Notwithstanding  the  apparent  flat- 
ness of  the  land   there  is  a  gradual  ascent  of  100  feet  between  Winni- 
peg and  Fortaffe  la  Prairie  (1,480  miles).     This  place  is  on  the  Assini- 
boine River,  and  has  a  population  of  nearly  4,500.    It  is  the  market  town 
of  a  rich  and  populous  district,  and  one  of  the  principal  grain  markets 
m  the  province.     There  are  large  flouring  mills  and  grain  elevators  a 


280 


WINNIPEG    TO   REGINA. 


brewery,  paper-mill,  biscuit  factory,  and  other  industries  here.  The 
Manitoba  and  Northwestern  Ry.  extends  228  miles  N.  W.  to  York- 
town,  with  blanches  at  Minnedosa  to  Rapid  City,  and  at  Binscartb  to 
Russell.  The  Manitoba  branch  of  the  Xorthern  Paciiic  R.  R.  extends 
to  Portage  la  Prairie. 

After  passing  through  a  bushy  district,  with  frequent  ponds  and  small 
streams,  the  railway  rises  from  Aiislin  (1,509  miles)  along  a  sandy  slope 
to  a  plateau  with  an  area  of  over  100,000  squan^  miles,  forming  a  fine 
wheat-growing  region.     Cavbvrry  (1,5S0  miles)  is  in  the  centre'of  the 
district,  and  is  its  chief  grain  market.    From  SeweU{\^mH  miles)  the  route 
descends  again  to  the  valley  of  the  Assiniboine.     To  the  southwest  are 
seen  the  Brandon  Hills.     Prom  Chater  (1,551  miles)  the  Great  North- 
west Central  Ry.,  running  northwestward  toward  Saskatchewan,  is  open 
to  Hamiota  (51  miles).     Pour  miles  beyond  the  station  the  Assiniboine 
River  is  crossed  by  an  iron  bridge,  and  the  divisional  point  of  Brandon 
(l.SSY  miles)  {Lungham  and  Grand  Vim)  is  reached.     This  town  is 
beautifnlly  situated  on  high  ground,  and,  although  it  can  almost  be  said 
to  have  come  with  the  railway,  it  is  now  the  second  city  of  Manitoba, 
with  a  population  of  nearly  6,0u0  inhabitants.     It  has  excellent  paved 
streets  and  many  substantial  buildings.     Brandou  is  a  distributing  mar- 
ket for  an  extensive  and  well-settled  country.     It  is  also  the  largest 
grain  market  of  the  province,  having  five  grain  elevators,  with  a  total 
capacity  of  310,000  bushels.     There  is  an  experimental  farm  here  un- 
der the  care  of  the  Government  officials.     The  standard  time  changes 
from  "  central  "  to  "  mountain  "  time,  which  is  one  hour  slower  as  we 
go  W.     Besides  being  a  divisional  point  it  is  also  an  important  rail- 
road  centre.     The  Pipestone    branch  is  open  to  Reston,  63   miles  S. 
At  Mentelth  Junction  it  connects  with  the  Souris  branch,  that  runs  S.  W. 
133  miles  through  the  fertile  distiict  of  the  Souris  River,  which  also 
yields  much  coal,  to  Estevau,  on  the  Soo  Pacific  line,  connecting  the 
Canadian  northwest  with  the  Middle  and  Northwestern  States  of  the 
Union.     It  is  also  the  western  terminus  of  the  Manitoba  Division  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  R.  R.     Beyond  Brandon  the  railway  leaves  the  Assini- 
boine River,  ai.i  rises  from  its  valley  to  an  undulating  prairie  that  is 
well  occupied  with  prosperous  farmers,  as  shown  by  the  thriving  vil- 
lages tbi't  appear  at  frequent  intervals.     At  Kemnay  (1,565  miles)  the 
Souris  branch  diverges  to  the  S,,  and  Virdin  (1,604  miles)  is  the  mar- 
ket town  of  a  district  of  rich  farms.     Elkhorn  (1,621   miles)  is  like- 
wise a  prairie  town  surrounded  by  farms. 


I 


Nli 


A8SINIB0IA. 


281 


Assiniboia. 

This  district  lies  directly  W.  ot  Manitoba.     It  is  bounded  on  tlie 
W.    by   Saskatchewan,  on  the  E.   by  Manitoba,  on   the  S.  by  North 
Dakota  and  Montana,  and  on  the  W.  by  Alberta.     It  has  an  area  of 
100,100  square  miles,  and,  according  to  the  census  of  1891,  had  a  nonu- 
lation  of  25,278  inhabitants.     The  surface  is  rolling,  dotted  over  with 
clumps  of  trees,  usually  found   bordering   the   shores  of  lakes   and 
meadows.     The  district  is  divi.led  into  two  great  areas.  Eastern  Assini- 
boia and   Western  Assiniboia.     Each  of  these  divisions  has  its' own 
pecuhar  characteristics,  the  eastern  portion  being  essentially  a  wheat- 
growmg  country,  and  the  western  better  fitted  for  mixed  farming  and 
ranchmg.     In  Eastern  Assiniboia,  the  great  plain  lying  S.  of  the  Qu'Ap- 
pelle  River  and  stretching  S.  to  the  international  boundary  is  considered 
to  have  the  largest  acreage  of  wheat  land  possessing  a  uniform  char- 
acter  of  sod  found  in  any  one  tract  of  fertile  prairie  land  in  the 
^1.  W.     The  eastern  part  of  the  district  is  known  as  the  Park  Countrv 
of  the  Canadian  N.  W.     The  Qu'Appelle  district  contains  a  large  tract 
of  excellent  farming  country,  watered  by  the  Qu'Appelle  River  and  the 
J^ishmg  Lakes.     The  soil  is  a  black  loam  with  clay  subsoil.     The  water 
.of  the  lakes  and  rivers  is  excellent,  and  stocked  with  fish.     It  is  a  coun- 
try  renowned  for  wild  fowl  and  other  game.     Western  Assiniboia  ex- 
tends  to  Kminvie,  about  40  miles  W.  of  Medicine  Hat.     At  present  it 
IS  more  occupied  by  ranchers  raising  cattle  and  sheep  than  by  farmers 
It  IS  everj-where  thickly  covered  with  a  good  growth  of  nutritious  grasses 
(chiefly  the  short,  crisp  variety  known  as  "buffalo  grass"),  which  be- 
comes  to  all  appearance  dry  about  midsummer,  but  is  still  green  and 
growing  at  the  roots,  and  forms  excellent  pasture  both  in  winter  and 
summer.     A  heavy  growth  of  grass  suitable  for  hav  is  found  in  many 
of  the  river  bottoms  and  surrounding  the  numerous  lakes  and  sloughs 
The  supply  of  timber  on  the  hills  is  considerable.     There  is  also  an 
abundance  of  fuel  of  a  different  kind  in  the  coal  seams  that  are  ex- 
posed in  many  of  the  valleys.     The  C.  P.  R.  traverses  the  central  por- 
tion  of  Assiniboia  from  E.  to  W.     Regina  is  the  seat  of  government 

The  district  of  Assiniboia,  the  first  of  the  Northwest  Terri- 
tories, ,s  entered  a  mile  this  side  of  Fleming  (1,635  miles).  Soon 
Moommin  (1,643  miles)  is  reached,  and  stages  run  twice  a  week 
from  here  N.  to  Fort  Ellice,  and  weekly  to  the  fertile  Mouse  Moun- 
tain district  on  the  S.     Small  stations  are  passed  at  regular  inter. 


I  :i 


282 


ASSINIBOIA. 


vain,  but  they  call  for  no  special  couirnent,  although  at  nearly  all 
of  them  the  sportsman  will  fin'l  excellent  opportunities  for  shooting 
—waterfowl  and  prairie  diicken  l)eing  especially  ahumlant.  Hroml 
view  (l,(itt8  miles)  is  a  divisional  point,  with  restaurant  at  the  sta- 
tion. It  is  at  the  head  of  Weed  Lakf,  and  is  an  important  trading 
town.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  reservation  of  the  Cree  Indians,  and  it  is  a 
common  sight  to  see  some  of  the  braves  at  the  station,  usually  under 
the  care  of  the  mounted  police.  Our  course  follows  a  gradually  rising 
prairie,  and  but  few  farms  are  to  l)e  seen.  Settlers  lur  the  most  part, 
in  this  vicinity,  have  shown  a  preference  for  the  line  of  the  Qu'Appelle 
River,  which  is  some  10  miles  to  the  N.  Pheasant  Hills,  to  the  N. 
of  the  river,  is  noted  for  the  fertility  of  its  soil.  A  little  beyond  Sinhi- 
luta  (1,728  miles)  we  approach  the  Government  Farm,  >  n  the  N.  side 
of  the  railway,  while  on  the  opposite  side  are  the  Canaiiian  Alliance 
Farm  and  the  Sunbeam  Farm,  both  of  which  are  portions  of  Lord  Bras- 
sey'a  colony.  The  gieat  Bell  Farm,  that  occupies  an  area  of  100  square 
miles,  lies  on  the  N.  side  of  the  railway.  In  it  furrows  are  ploughed 
that  are  4  miles  in  length,  and  at  harvest  thci  regular  staff  of  laborers  is 
increased  by  various  Indians.  It  begins  soon  after  leaving  hidian  Head 
(1,7^8  miles),  where  its  headquarters  are. 

Qu'Appelle  (1,748  miles)  is  a  new  town,  the  supplying  and  ship- 
ping point  for  a  large  section.  It  has  a  population  of  about  1,000 
persons.  A  good  road  extends  northward  to  Fort  Qu'Appelle,  the 
Touchwood  Hills,  and  Prince  Albert,  over  which  a  stage  runs  daily  to 
the  Fort,  which  is  20  miles  distant.  It  is  an  old  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  beautifully  situated  on  the  P'ishing  Lakes  in  the  deep  valley 
of  the  Qu'Appelle  River,  where  not  only  is  good  fishing  to  be  had  but 
also  excellent  shooting.  There  are  several  Indian  reservations  in  its 
vicinity,  and  an  Indian  mission  and  school  that  was  established  in  the 
Fifties  by  the  Jesuits. 

The  country  is  wooded  beyond  Qu'Appelle,  but  at  McLean  (1,756 
miles)  the  great  Regina  plain  is  entered.  This  is  a  broad  treeless  expanse 
of  the  finest  agricultural  land  that  extends  westward  to  the  Dirt  Hills, 
which  are  the  northward  extension  of  the  Missouri  Coteau,  and  lie 
to  the  S.  W.  The  next  station  is  Z?trtyo»/e  (1,765  miles),  near  where 
is  a  farm  of  the  Canadian  Agricultural  Company,  a  corporation  chiefly 
devoted  to  grain-raising,  and  whose  production  in  1891  was  40,000 
bushels.  Pilot  Butte  (1,772  miles),  that  takes  its  name  from  a  rounded 
hill  in  the  vicinity,  is  soon  passed,  and  Retina  (1,781  raWes)  {Windsor)^ 


UKOINA    TO    I'UINCK    ALIlKFiT. 


288 


the  Crt|,  tal  of  As.*iniboiii,  and  <,f  the  Xortlnvest  Ttu-iitoiies,  is  reaclied. 
This  Important  liistiiliiitiiifr  point  hius  a  popuhiticm  of  nearly  2,r.()().  It 
iti  the  Uieetiii<,'.phice  of  the  Executive  Council  of  the  North  v. -st  Tcriito- 
ricM,  including  As-iniboia,  Alheiti.  Saskutdiewan,  and  AthahaHca,  and 
the  jurisdiction  of  th.  l.ioiK.'nant-CJovcrnoi,  whoso  residence  is  here, 
extends  over  all  these  dist  „.  it  is  also  tlie  hoadcpia iters  of  the 
North  u'A  Mounted  Police,  a  l.ody  of  1,U()()  picked  men,  that  form  the 
frontier  array  of  the  Dominion.  They  are  stationed  at  intervals  over 
the  N.  W.  to  look      wr  the  Indians  and  preserve  order  generally. 


J, 


Regina  to  Prince  Albert. 

The  construction  of  important  branches  is  a  conspicuous  evidence 
of  the  enterprise  of  the  C.  P.  I?  and  the  line  that  was  cotnpleted  in 
18J»3,  for  the  purpose  of  opcnm-  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Saskatche- 
wan  is  an  excellent  illustration  (.f  that  fact.     Whet,   valuable  farm 
lands  are  niade  accessible,  immigration  soon  follows,  and  market  cen- 
tres  develo[)  into  towns  and  jiuictions  become  capitals.     The  Prince 
Albert   Branch   of  the  C.  P.   R.  extends  fiom  Regina  N.  for   a   dis- 
tance  of  241  miles  to  Prince  Albert  in  the  territory  of  Saskatchewan. 
It  runs  in  a  northwesterly  direction  through  a  (as  yet)  thiidy  popu- 
lated  region,  passing  at  first  down  the  valley  of  the  Wascana  Creek, 
and  crossing  the  Qu'Appelle  River  at  Lnmsdcn  (20  miles).     The  route 
continues  through  a  bushy  country  for  nearly  150  miles,  where  fiee  lands 
are  steadily  attracting  immigrants  anxious  to  secure  farms.     The  coun- 
try is  well  adapted   for  stock-raising  on    a   moderate   scale,  suc.i  as 
would  be  suitable  for  mixed  farming.     The  climate  is  healthy,  and  an 
average  summer  temperature  of  about  60°  is  recorded.     The  stations, 
none  of  which  have  as  yet  accpiired  any  importance,  are  passed  at  inter- 
vals of  about  ten  miles.     Between  Dumhini  (1SC>  niiles)  and  Gnndlo,/ 
{WS  miles)  the  frontier  line  between  Assiniboia  and  Saskatchewan  is 
passed.     At  Sad-afoon   (160  miles)  the    South  Saskatchewan  River  is 
crossed.     This  place  is  a  divisional  point,  with  a  restaurant  at   the 
station.     It  was  formerly  a  police  post.     The  route  now  turns  N.  E. 
and  follows  the  fertile  valley  between  South  Saskatchewan  on  the  E. 
and  the  North  Saskatchewan  on  the  W.     Buck  Lake  (2 1 1  miles)  is  the 
most  important  of  the  few  stations  that  are  passed  before  rrince  Al- 
bcrt  is  reached.     Here  occurred  the  culmination  of  the  Riel  Rebellion 
that  took  place  in  1885.     This  place  is  a  small  farming  town  on  the  S, 


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284 


SASKATCHEWAN. 


bank  of  the  North  Saskatchewan  River,  about  30  miles  to  the  W  of 
he  junction  of  the  N.  and  S.  branches  of  the  river.     It  is  the  chief 
own  of  the  Territory  and  the  centre  of  quite  a  large  fanning  district 
It  was   throughout  this  district  that  in   1884-'85  a   few  dissatisfied 
French  m./^,  or  half-breeds  invited  Louis  Kiel,  the  leader  of  the  Red 
River  Rebellion  in  1869  (then  living  in  Montana),  to  aid  them  in  a  con- 
stit^utional  agitation  for  their  rights.     He  established  his  headquarters 
m  Duck  Lake,  and  in  March  set  up  a  provisional  government.    A  body 
of  mihtia  under  General  Middleton  was  sent  to  subdue  them,  but  owing 
to  the  difficulties  in  transportation  did  not  reach  the  point  of  action 
until  early  m  April.     Several  engagements  took  place,  and  finally  in 
Barouche,  not  far  from  Duck  Lake,  on  May  9th,  the  decisive  encounter 
uccuiTed  and  Riel  surrendered.     He  was  taken  to  Regina,  where,  with 
8  ot  his  Indian  followers,  he  was  hanged. 

Saskatchewan. 

This  division  of  Western  Canada  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  North 
>vest  Territory  and  Keewatin,  on  the  E.  by  Keewatin  and  Manitoba,  on 
the  S.  by  Assmibom,  and  the  W.  by  Alberta.     It  has  an  area  of  107  - 

ton  Tr,r«     ;,T.^'  '''"''°^  *'  *^^  ^^"^"^  «^  1^91'  had  a  popuh- 
lon  of  11,146  inhabitants.     The  climate  is  healthy,  being  both  bracing 

and  salubrious.    The  average  summer  temperature  is  about  60°  F     The 
reason  of  the  equability  of  the  temperature  in  summer  has  not  yet  been 
thoroughly  mvestigated,  but  the  water  stretches  mav  be  found  to  ac 
count  for  it^   The  district  is  almost  centrally  divided  by  the  main  Sas- 
katchewan River,  which  is  altogether  within  its  boundary,  and  by  its 
pnnc,pal  branch,  the  North  Saskatchewan,  most  of  whose  navigable 
ength   lies  within  the  district.      There  are  extensive  grazing  plains 
through  which  the  railway  passes  in  the  southern  portion,  but  the 
gi-eater  part  of  it  is  rolling  prairie  diversified  by  wood  and  lake.     In 
these  parts   which  are  well  adapted  for  mixed  farming,  the  soil  is  gen- 
erally a  rich  loam  with  clay  subsoil,  in  which  grass  grows  luxuriantly 
and  gram  ripens  well.     The  crops  consist  of  wheat,  oats,  barley,  and 
potatoes.     Turnips  and  all  kinds  of  vegetables  are  raised  successfully 
The  country  is  well  adapted  for  stock-raising  on  a  moderate  scale,  such 
as  would  be  suitable  for  mixed  farming,  and  any  portion  of  the  district 
wil    answer  all  the  requirements  for  dairy  farming.     The  sportsman 
will  find  an  abundance  of  wild  game,  whether  of  fin,  feathers,  or  furs 


i 


REGINA  TO  CALQAltY. 


285 


sufficient  m  variety  to  satisfy  the  most  fastidious.  At  present,  settle- 
ment IS  chiefly  confined  to  the  Prince  Albert  and  Battleford  districts 
Prince  Albert  is  the  N.  terminus  of  a  branch  of  the  C  P  R  and  the 
^.  E.  corner  of  the  district  has  water  connection  by  the  Saskatchewan 
River  and  Lake  Winnipeg,  with  Winnipeg.  Prince  Albert  is  the  chi^f 
town. 


Regina  to  Calgary. 


We  agam  resume  our  route  westward.   After  leaving  Regina  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  is  passed  on  the  right,  and  soon  after 
the  headquarters  of  the  Mounted  Police.     The  barracks,  officers'  qua-- 
ters,  offices,  storehouses,  and  the  imposing  driU-hall  together  constitute 
quite  a  village.     Large  wheat  fields  on  either  side  testify  to  the  rich 
ness  of  the  ..  il.     At  Pacqua  (1,814  miles)  a  branch  line  of  the  C  P  R 
extends  S.  E.  through  Estevan  to  the  international  boundary  line  at 
Portal,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Soo  line  for  Sault  Ste  Marie 
by  way  of  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis.     3foose  Jaw  (822  miles)  is  a  divi- 
sional point,  with  a  restaurant  in  the  station.     Its  name  is  an  abridg- 
ment of  the  Indian  name  which,  on  being  literally  translated,  signi- 
fies    The-creek-where-the-white-man-mended-the.cart-with-a-moose-jaw- 
bone.       We  have  been  slowly  but  steadily  climbing  the  eastern  slope 
of  the  Missouri  Coteau,  and  the  road  winds  through  an  irregular  depres 
sion  to  the  basin  of  the  Old  Wives'  Lakes-two  extensive  bodies  of 
water  that  have  no  outlet  and  are  consequently  alkaline     The  most 
northerly  and  wes.3rly  of  these  lakes  is  reached  at  Chaplin  (1  816 
■miles).  ^       \  >   '" 

The  country  is  treeless  from  the  eastern  border  of  the  Regina  plain 
to  the  Cypress  Hills  (200  miles)  but  the  soil  is  excellent  nearly  every- 
where     The.prairies  about  and  beyond  Old  Wives'  Lakes  are  marked 
m  all  directions  by  old  buffalo  trails,  and  scarred  and  pitted  by  their 
wallows.       Antelope  may  now  be  frequently  seen,  and  coyotes  and 
prairie  dogs.     Near  Morse  (1,396  miles)  is  a  salt  lake,  and  not  far  be- 
yond  IS  Rush  Lake,  a  large  ara  of  fresh  water  and  a  favourite  resort  of 
waterfowl-swans,  geese,  ducks,  and  pelicans-which  at  times  conj^re- 
gate  here  in  myriads.     At  Bush  Lake  (1,913  miles),  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  Ime,  is  another  of  the  Canadian  Agricultural  Company's  farms 
There  are  a  number  of  these  in  various  districts,  aggregating  about  105,^ 
000  acres.     Each  contains  an  area  of  10,000  acres,  and  it  is  the  iuten- 
tion  ultimately  to  have  4,000  acres  under  cultivation  at  each  point 


n 

■f 

.Vil 


y-A 


286 


REG  IN  A   TO   CALGARY. 


Sioiff  Current  (1,935  miles),  on  a  pretty  stream  of  the  same  name,  is 
a  divisional  point,  with  restaurant.     The  little  town  is  sustained  by  the 
numerous  cattle  runcbes  in  the  vicinity.     The  principal  sheep  farm  of 
the  Canadian  Agricultural  Company  is  here,  and  a  large  crop  of  wool  is 
shipped  eaetward  each  year.     The  well-appointed  farm  buildings,  in- 
cluding a  large  creamery,  are  on  the  hills  directly  S.  of  the  station. 
Near  by  is  the  Government  Meteorological  Station.     From  here  onward 
the  line  skirts  the  northern  base  of  the  Cypress  Hills,  which  gradually  rise 
towards  the  W.  until  they  reach  an  altitude  of  3,800  ft.,  and  in  many 
places  are  covered  with  valuable  timber.     At  Crane  Lake  (2,000  miles) 
another  of  the  Canadian  Agiicultural  Company's  farms  is  located,  but 
is  entirely  applied  to  stock-raising.     There  are  large  cattle-yards  at 
Maple  Creek  (2,021  miles),  and  near  the  town  is  a  station  of  the  Mount- 
ed Police.     There  is  still  another  farm  at  Kincorth  (2,030  miles).      The 
C.  P.  R.  have  an  experimental  farm  at  Forres  (2,030  miles).    The  satis- 
factory results  obtained  from  working  this  and  similar  farms  estab- 
lished at  different  points  on  the  line  have  proved  the  value  of  the  land 
for  farming.     This  section  has  been  found  to  be  specially  suited  to 
stock-raising.     It  is  rich  in  the  grasses  that  possess  peculiar  attractions 
for  horses  and  cattle,  while  the  valleys  and  groves  of  timber  afford 
shelter  during  all  seasons  of  the  year.     Finally,  the  many  streams  flow- 
ing  out  of  the  Cypress  Hills  yield  an  excellent  supply  of  water.     From 
Forres  to  Dunmore  rocks  of  the  Cretaceous  age  are  abundant,  in  which 
the  remains  of  the  gigantic  carnivorous  and  other  animals  now  extinct 
are  found.     At  Dunmore  {2,011  miles)  there  is  still  another  of  the  Ca- 
nadian Agricultural  Company's  farms,  and  it  is  of  a  mixed  character, 
for  not  only  are  capital  crops  raised  but  valuable  horses  and  cattle  are 
bred  here.     A  branch  of  the  C.  P.  R.  extends  in  a  southwesterly  direc- 
tion for  110  miles  to  Lcthbridge,  a  lively  town  of  nearly  fi,500  inhab- 
itants in  the  centre  of  an  important  coal  region.     Indeed,  it  is  the  chief 
source  of  supply  for  the  country  E.  to  and  beyond  Winnipeg.     During 
1892  131,000  tons  of  coal  were  rained,  half  of  which  was  exported  to 
Montana.     The  Great  Falls  and  Canada  Ry.  extends  S.  from  Lethbridge 
to  CoutU  on  the  frontier  and  thence  into  Montana,  intersecting  the 
Great  Northern  R.  R.  at  Shelby  Junction,  and  finally  reaching  the  south- 
ern terminus  in  Great  Falls,  199  miles  distant  from  Lethbridge. 

From  Dunmore  the  train  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  South  Sas- 
katchewan, which  it  crosses  by  a  fine  steel  bridge  1,010  ft.  long  at 
Medicine  Hat  (2,084  miles),  a  growing  divisional  station,  with  a  popula- 


] 


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C 

SI 


ALBERTA. 


287 


tion  of  something  over  1,000  inhabitants.     The  train  stops  for  30  min- 
utes, and  the  repair  shops  of  the  railroad  are  here.     Indians  .elling 
curiosities  ure  seen  around  the  station,  and  the  Mounted  Police  have 
a  bureau  here.     There  are  deposits  of  soft  coal  (lignite)  in  the  vicinity, 
and  the  river  is  navigable  at  this  point ;  indeed,  small  steamers  have  de- 
scended the  river  to  Lake  Winnipeg,  800  miles  to  the  E.     Beyond  "  the 
Hat     the  railway  ascends  to  the  high  prairie  plateau,  which  extends 
gradually  rising,  to  the  base  of  the  mountains.     At  Stair  (2,092  mile«) 
the  route  reaches  the  first  of  the  Canadian  Agricultural  Company's 
farms  W.  of  the  Saskatchewan.     The  train  then  follows  a  strong  un- 
^ade  to  ^o«,^/  (2,099  mile.),  after  which  it  makes  a  descent  to  .J- 
«(2,111  milesj,  and  then  steadily  ascends  again.   Across  the  prairie  to 
the  S.  occasional  glimpses  of  the  Bow  River  may  be  seen     In  the 
early  summer  the  prairie  may  be  compared  to  a  billowv  ocean  of  grass 
with  cattle  ranches  spread  over  it,  and  farms,  like  islands,  appearing  at 
intervals.     Coal  beds  lie  under  the  surface,  and  natural  gas  is  found  by 
boring  deep  wells.     At  Langevin  (2,119  miles)  th-  gas  is  used   for 
pumping  water  into  the  tanks  for  the  railway  supplv     *>om  this  station 
on  a  clear  day,  the  higher  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  still  150 
miles  to  the  westward,  may  be  se^u  with  the  naked  eye.     A  short  dis 
tance  beyond  the  station  we  leave  the  great  Territory  of  Assiniboia  and 
enter  Alberta. 

Alberta. 

This  district  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Athabasca,  on  the  E  bv  Sas- 
katchewan and  Manitoba,  on  the  S.  by  Montana,  and  on  the  N   by  Brit 

''i^o^or^'?"    ''  ^''  '''  "'"^  '*  ^^^'^^^  ^^"«^^  '""^«'  '^^d  a  population 
ot  25,278  inhabitants,  according  to  the  census  of  1891.     Alberta  is  de 

scribed  as  having  three  distinct  surface  features-namely,  prairie  lands 
on  the  E.,  which  are  thickly  timbered  in  the  northern  part ;  then  come 
the  rolhng  land  or  foothills,  extending  some  40  miles  from  the  base  of 
the  mountains,  mostly  heavily  timbered ;  and  lastly  the  mountains,  con- 
taming  quantities  of  gold  and  other  ores.     The  climate  of  Northern  Al 
berta  is  like  that  of  Manitoba,  though  not  so  cold  in  winter,  and  the  win- 
ter  IS  shorter.   The  Chinook  wind  reaches  the  Edmonton  country  to  some 
extent  and  tempers  the  climate.    In  southern  Alberta  the  action  of  the 
Chinook  winds  is  more  direct  and  stronger  than  in  the  N.,  with  the  re- 
suit  that  the  snowfall  is  much  lighter  and  does  not  remain  on  the 
ground  for  any  length  of  time.    Northern  Alberta  embraces  the  fertile 


288 


ALBERTA. 


I  i 


!    1 


tract  of  country  watered  by  the  Red  Deer,  the  Battle,  tlie  North  Sas- 
katchewan, and  Sturgeon  Rivers.  It  is  a  country  pre-eminently  suited 
to  mixed  farming.  It  is  well  wooded  and  watered,  and  abounds  with 
natural  hay  meadows.  As  regards  water,  there  are  magnificent  water 
courses,  innumerable  lakes,  mountain  streams,  and  creeks  and  springs. 
This  district  contains  millions  of  acres  of  deep,  rich  soil,  and  possesses 
beyond  dispute  some  of  the  best  farming  country  in  the  Dominion. 
Southern  Alberta  stands  foremost  among  the  cattle  countries  of  the 
world,  and  the  unknown  land  of  a  few  years  ago  is  looked  to  as  one  of 
the  greatest  future  sources  of  supply  of  the  British  markets.  Great 
herds  of  range  cattle  roam  at  will  over  these  seemingly  boundless  pas- 
tures. There  are  on  the  ranges  of  Alberta  hundreds  of  herds  of  fat 
cattle,  which  at  any  season  are  neither  fed  nor  sheltered ;  cattle,  too, 
which  in  point  of  breeding,  size,  and  general  condition  are  equal  to  any 
range  cattle  in  the  world.  That  Alberta  possesses  untold  wealth  in  her 
immense  mineral  deposits  is  no  longer  a  m.atter  of  doubt.  For  years 
gold  in  paying  quantities  has  been  found  on  the  banks  and  bars  of  the 
North  Saskatchewan  River.  Deposits  of  galena  have  been  located  which 
are  said  to  contain  a  large  percentage  of  silver.  Copper  ore  in  enor- 
mous quantities  has  also  been,  found.  Iron  ore  has  been  discovered  in 
various  parts  of  Alberta.  A  valuable  seam  of  hematite  iron  exists  at 
the  base  of  Storm  Mountain,  and  other  seams  are  known  to  exist  in 
Macleod  District  in  the  vicinity  of  Crow's  Nest  Pass.  As  to  the  quan- 
tity of  the  coal  deposits  of  Alberta  it  is  impossible  to  form  any  esti- 
mate. The  coal  mines  already  discovered  are  of  sufficient  extent  to 
supply  Canada  with  fuel  for  centuries.  At  Lethbridge  over  a  million 
dollars  have  been  expended  in  developing  the  coal  mines.  At  Anthra- 
cite large  sums  have  been  spent  in  opening  up  the  hard  coal  deposit 
of  that  vicinity.  Hard  coal  has  also  been  discovered  at  Edmonton, 
semi-anthracite  at  Rosebud,  anthracite  near  Canmore,  and  vast  deposits 
in  Crow's  Nest  Pass,  in  the  southern  district.  Soft  coal  is  so  plentiful 
that  the  certainty  of  a  cheap  fuel  supply  is  assured  to  Albertans  for 
very  many  generations.  The  southern  portion  of  the  district  is  crossed 
by  the  C.  P.  R.,  and  a  branch  extends  N.  irrm  Calgary  to  Edmonton, 
while  from  Lethbridge  on  the  S.  a  branch  excends  to  the  International 
boundary,  connecting  there  with  the  Great  Northern  R.  R.  Calgary  is 
the  chief  town. 

Soon  after  leaving  Bansano  (2,182  miles)  we  reach  the  large  reser- 
vation of  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  some  of  whom  are  likely  to  be  seen 


ALBERTA. 


289 


about  the  stations.     The  reservation  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  rnilwav  and 
the  hrst  station  that  is  on  its  boundary  is   Cr.wfool  (2,190  miles) 
named  In  honour  of  a  famous  Blackfoot  chief.     Here  the  Bow  River 
comes  dose  to  the  railway  as  it  follows  its  course  through  the  reser- 
vation   which  we  leave  soon  after  Namuka  (2,218  miles)  is  passed 
Meanwhile  at   Oleiclien  (2,109  miles),  a  railway  divisional  point    the 
mountams  come  in  full  view-a  magnificent  line  of  snowy  peaks  ex 
tending  far  along  the  southern  and  western  horizons.     At  Langdon 
(2,244  n.iles)  the  railway  turns  into  the  valley  of  the  Bow  River  and  a 
few  miles  beyond  Shepard  (2,254  miles)  the  river  is  crossed  by  'an  iron 
bridge  and  the  foothills  are  reached.     Calgary  (844  miles)  (Alhe^^ta 
Hotel)  IS  charmingly  situated  at  an  altitude  of  3,388  ft    on  a  hillside 
plateau  at  the  junction  of  the  Bow  and  Elberon  Rivers  overlooked  by 
the  snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.     It  is  the  most  im 
portant  place  between  Brandon  and  Vancouver,  and  has  a  population 
of  nearly  5,000  inhabitants.     Already  it  has  been  made  a  citv,  and  its 
business  portion  is  compactly  and  handsomely  built  up.     The   banks 
are  rich  and  the  business  interests  are  large.     Fine  churches,  ample 
schoolhouses,  and  well  constructed  residences  make  Calgary  more  of  a 
city  of  homes  than  a  mere  frontier  business  place.     It  has  a  history 
too,  for  it  is  believed  to  be  the  place  where,  in  1752,  Niowville  estab 
lished  Fort  Jonqui^re.     There  "  the  old  Bow  Fort "  was  built  in  the  im 
mediate  vicinity  early  in  the  century,  and  more  recently  the  Hudson 
Bay  Co.  erected  a  little  trading  house.     Last  of  all  came  the  barracks 
of  the  Mounted  Police,  to  which  the  name  of  Fort  Calgary  was  given 
The  Hudson  Bay  Co.  and  the  Mounted  Police  still  have  their  stations 
here.     Calgary  is  the  centre  of  the  trade  of  the  great  ranching  coun- 
try, and  it  is  the  chief  source  of  supply  for  the  mining  districts  in  the 
mountams  beyond.     Lumber  is  made  from  the  logs  that  are  floated 
down  the  Bow  River,  and  much  of  the  light-grey  building  stone  that 
IS  used  m  the  city  comes  from  the  immediate  vicinity.    It  is  also  a  rail 
way  centre.     A  branch  of  the  C.  P.  R.  extends  191  miles  N.  to  Edmon. 
ton,  in  the  valley  of  the  North  Saskatchewan  River.    It  is  the  market 
town  for  the  farmers,  traders,  miners,  etc.,  in  North  Alberta.    The  town 
IS  well  laid  out,  and  on  a  bluff  above  it  is  the  fort  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Co.     There  is  a  road  running  96  miles  N.  to  Athahmca  Landinn  a  store 
of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.  on  the  Athabasca  River,  from  where,  by  means 
of  the  flat-bottomed  river  steamers  of  the  company,  a  trip  can  be  made 
down  the  river  to  Athabasca  Lake,  thence  by  the  Great  Slave  River  its 


"1- 
III; 


290 


CALGARY   TO   DONALD. 


outlet,  to  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  and  thence  by  the  Mackenzie 
River,  its  outlet,  to  the  Arctic  Ocean.  Edmonton  is  the  most  northerly 
railway  station  on  the  continent.  There  is  a  branch  of  the  C,  P.  R. 
that  runs  S.  from  Calgary  to  Mncleod,  a  distance  of  105  miles,  passing 
through  a  rich  ranching  and  farming  country.  From  Macleod  a  branch 
is  being  built  to  Lethbridge.     (See  p.  286.) 


I     I 


Calgary  to  Donald. 

The  ascent  of  the  Rockies  begins  at  once  after  leaving  Calgary. 
For  a  short  distance  we  follow  the  S.  bank  of  the  Bow  and  cross  it  at 
Keith  (2,2'73  miles).  Large  cattle  ranches  are  passed,  and  sometimes  we 
may  see  great  herds  of  horses  in  the  lower  valleys,  thousands  of  cattle 
on  the  terraces,  and  flocks  of  sheep  on  the  hilltops  all  at  once.  Soon 
Cochrane  (2,28?  miles)  is  reached,  and  we  are  well  within  the  rounded 
grassy  foothills  and  "  view  benches  "  or  terraces.  Frequent  saw-mills 
are  seen  in  the  valley,  and  here  and  there  a  coal  mine.  Between  Coch- 
rane and  Radnor  (2,29*7  miles)  we  again  cross  the  river,  and  still  rising, 
reach  Morley  (2,306  miles),  and  an  altitude  of  4,000  ft.  Then,  to  quote 
Lady  Macdonald,  "  the  wide  valleys  change  into  broken  ravines,  and 
lo !  through  an  opening  in  the  mist,  made  rosy  with  early  sunlight,  we 
see,  far  away  in  the  sky,  its  delicate  pearly  tip  clear  against  the  blue, 
a  single  snow  peak  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  .  .  .  but  as  we  look,  gauzy 
mist  passes  over,  and  it  has  vanished."  Just  before  reaching  the  Kana- 
naskis  (2,318  miles)  we  cross  the  river  of  the  same  name,  not  far  from 
its  confluence  with  the  Bow,  on  a  high  iron  bridge,  and  nearly  over  the 
Kananaskis  Falls,  40  ft.  high,  which  cannot  be  seen  from  the  train, 
although  the  roar  of  the  falling  water  is  distinctly  heard.  Soon  after 
leaving  the  station  a  bend  in  the  line  brings  the  train  between  two 
almost  vertical  walls  of  dizzy  height,  and  we  enter  the  Bow  River 
Gap,  as  the  gateway  by  which  the  Rocky  Mountains  is  entered  is 
called.  On  the  right  are  the  fantastically  broken  and  castellated 
heights  of  the  Fairholme  Mountains  that  culminate  in  Grotto  Mountain, 
8,840  ft.  high,  while  to  the  left  are  the  massivs  snow-laden  promon- 
tories of  the  Kananaskis  range,  of  which  Pigeon  Mountain  (7,815  ft.)  is 
the  most  conspicuous.  Gap  Station  (2,326  mile?,  altitude  4.200  ft.)  is  at 
the  east  end,  from  where  we  obtain  a  superb  view  to  the  left  of  Wind 
Mountains  (10,400  ft.),  and  the  group  called  Three  Sisters  (9,705  ft).  On 
leaving  the  Gap  the  train  turns  northward  up  the  valley  to  the  Bow 


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THE  BOOK-    MOITOTAIN   PAHK  OF  CANADA.        291 

tQde  4,230  ft),  where  „„  obgervatlon  car,  speeiall,  de-iKncd  to  all™  ,n 

unbroken  v,.,w  of  .l,e  w„„,lerf„l  „ n.ain  aeener,,  I,  attached  toth^ 

t«m  ,lur,„K  the  »e.,„„  from  May  1  ,„ October  15.  From  tlLHl  . 
-.nki,,,  p^hle  o,  the  Three  S.tera  „  „bu,i„od,  with  WM  1  P  "1 
Monntam,  oom mg  „p  beyond.  On  a  hill  behind  atand,  a  g™  p  „, 
■solated  and  c„r,ou,ly  weathered  conglomerate  monumenta.  One Uher 
.de  of  he  heautifnl  level  valley  the  mountain,  r,,e  m  «,lid  m  1 
wctwar.  untd  the  great  b„lk  of  Oa.,eade  Mountain  cl„,ea  the  leT 
Good  flahrng  .„d  .hooting  are  obtained  in  this  vicinity.  The  Rocky 
Mountam  Park  is  entered  0  milea  beyond  Canmore. 

The  Rooky  Mountam  Park  of  Canada. 

This  rectang,dar  tract  of  land,  26  miles  long  and  in  miles  wide  is 
m  western  Alberta.    It  was  set  apart  by  the  Dominion  of  Canada  ^  I 
n..,o„a    reservafon  and  ple..,ure  resort.     I.  includes   the   beautiful 
Dev,l  s  Lake  and  part,  of  the  valleys  of  the  Bow,  Spray,  and  Cascade 
Rivers.     No  par.  of  the  Rockies  exhibits  a  greater  variety  of  sublime 
and  pleasmg  scenery;  and  nowhere  are  good  points  of  view  and  tZ 
ure   of  specMl  mterest  so  accessible,  since  many  excellent  roads  and 
br,dle.pa.hs  have  been  made.    Boatmg  may  be  indulged  in  on  the  Bow 
R.ver  and  on  the  lake,  in  whose  waters  excellent  Hshiog  is  .„  be  had 
No  shootrng  ,s  allowed  within  the  Park  limits,  but  Banff  fs  an  exceS 
s  artmg.pomt  for  those  seeking  .he  pursuit  of  bear,  elk,  caribou     nd 
other  b,g  game  that  abounds  in  the  vicinity,  to  say  nothing  of  .he'  b" 
horn  sheep    Permits  for  camping  may  be  obtained  from  the  super  n- 

rrX:**^  "'""""""    ^-— aln- 
Asweenterthe  park.  Mount  Peechee  (9,580  ft.)  rises  to  the  right  di. 

72ltmn\   ^r'"!'^  "'"""'-^  '-her  progress  is  cLade 
sheX.     f  \    ^^'  "     I»'P<«"i™l«--.  n«»ive  precipice  front, 

sheathed  w,th  a  thousand  colors  which  glow  in  the  sunshine,"  is  marked 
by  a  slender  waterfall  trailing  almost  from  brow  to  base.   The  valley  nar 

S  tt  7]'  '"^""'  ""■*  ^^"'^  -"""•'  (2.339  miles,  altitude 

4  2?5  ft )  ,s  reached.     Still  higher  we  go,  following  a  defile  of  the  Gas- 
cade  Rtver,  and  on  a  widening  of  the  valley  is  A,MracUe  (2,241  mile, 
•teude  4,350  ft.,.     Here  are  coal  mines  where  true  anthrleite"  an 
excellent  quahty  ,s  found,  and  the  output  is  sent  as  far  E.  as  Wim.ipeg. 


292 


THE  ROCKY    MOUNTAIN   PARK    OF   CAN/ DA. 


! 


Soon  the  Cascade  River  leads  to  the  right  and  opens  westward  past  the 
base  of  tlie  ('ascade  Mountiihis,  while  to  the  left  the  How  River  bends 
sharply  towards  the  S,  W.  ♦hroiigh  a  wiile  break  that  separates  the 
Rundle  Cascade  line  of  peaks.  In  the  triangular  space  thus  formed  is 
5an/f  (2,;i4ft  miles,  altitude  4,500  ft.),  the  station  for  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain  Park  and  the  Hot  Springs.  From  the  station  a  superb  view  of  the 
mountains  is  pos.sible.  To  the  N.  is  Cascade  Mountain ;  to  the  E.  are 
Mount  Inglismaldie  (9.87ft  ft),  and  the  heights  of  the  Fairholme  sub- 
range, behind  which  lies  Devil's  Head  Lake.  Still  farther  to  the  S.  the 
sharp  cone  of  Mount  Peechee  closes  the  view  in  that  direction.  To  the 
left  of  Cascade  Mountaiii  and  just  N.  of  the  track  rises  the  wooded 
ridge  of  Scpiaw  Mountain  (6,130  ft.),  beneath  which  are  the  Vermilion 
Lakes.  To  the  W.  and  up  the  valley  are  the  distant  snowy  peaks  of 
the  main  range  about  Simpson's  Pass,  chief  of  which  is  the  square, 
wall-like  crest  of  Mount  Massive.  A  little  neaier  on  the  left  is  the 
northern  end  of  the  Bourgeau  Range,  and  still  nearer  the  Sulphur  Moun- 
tain, along  the  base  of  which  are  the  springs.  The  isolated  bluff  to 
the  S.  is  Tunnel  Mountain  (6,B10  ft.),  while  just  beyond  ihe  station 
Rundle  Peak  rises  abruptly,  and  so  near  at  hand  as  to  cut  off  all  view 
in  that  direction.  There  are  several  boarding-houses  and  small  shops 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  station,  but  the  village  itself  is  2  miles  S.  W.,  on  a 
bold  bluff  overlooking  the  junction  of  the  Bow  and  Spray  Rivers.  A 
good  road  from  the  station  soon  brings  us  to  the  steel  'm'' Jge  that  takes 
tho  carriage  road  over  the  Bow  and  we  reach  the  Banff  Springs  Hotel, 
built  by  the  railway  company,  near  the  line  falls  in  the  Bow,  and  the 
mouth  of  the  rapid  !:'pray  River.  This  hotel,  with  every  modern  con 
venience  and  luxury,  including  baths  supplied  from  the  hot  sulphur 
springs,  is  kept  open  during  the  summer  months. 

The  Grand  View  Hotel,  Bcaftie^s  Hotel,  and  BretVs  Stinitarium  are 
smaller  and  less  expensive  hotels  in  the  little  village,  where  already 
a  pretty  church,  a  town  hall,  and  a  schoolhouse  have  here  been 
built.  It  has  a  permanent  population  of  something  over  600  persons. 
Banff  Hot  Springs  is  most  favorably  placed  for  health,  picturesque 
views,  and  as  a  centre  for  canoeing,  driving,  walking,  or  mountain 
climbing.  Large  trout  are  found  in  Devil's  Head  Lake,  and  deep  troll- 
ing for  these  affords  fine  sport.  Wild  sheep  (thu  bighorn)  and  moun- 
tain goats  are  common  on  the  neighboring  heights.  The  springs  are 
at  different  elevations  upon  the  eastern  slope  of  Sulphur  Mountain,  the 
highest  being  700  feet  above  the  Bow.     All  are  reached  by  good 


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THE  ROOKY  MOUNTAIN  PARK  OP  CANADA.      293 
roads  commonding  glorioua  landscape,.    The  more  imp„rt„„,  ,prta^ 
have  been   ,mp,„ved   by  ,he  Government,  and  pietuLue  baS 
house,  have  been  ereeted  and  placed  under  the  care  of  .tZdauta    "f 
on     OC.1..,  ,s  a  poo,  inside  a  dome-roofed  cave ;  and,  „e..  btanother 
spring  fo™,  an  open  basin  of  „m,,  sulphurous  ;ater.    S  nee  the 
opemngo,  .he  railway  these  springs  have  been  largely  visted  Id 
tesfmouy  to  their  wonderful  curative  properties  is   pL, ifu,    The 
character  of  .he  water  is  said  to  be  similar  to  that  of  the  Ho.  Lings 
m  Arkansas    United  States.    There  are  nun>e™us  excursions TS 
made  from  Banff,  among  which  the  ascent  of  the  mountaZ  i„  the 
vie  m.y  ,s  worthy  of  mention.    Some  of  these  require  only  a  few  hours 
whde  others  are  a  matter  of  several  days.    Competent  guidroan  be 

th,s  arduous  but  fascinating  pastime.    On  resuming  the  railway  we 

attentmn  but  some  new  attraction  demands  recognition.  On  .he  ri-h. 
he  Vernnhon  Lakes  are  skir.ed,  and  in  fron.  „,  us  Mount  Massive  and 
the  snow-peaks  ,„  the  crest,  enclosing  Simpson's  Pass,  confronts  A 
sharp  turn  to  the  right  and  the  great  heap  „,  snowy  ledges  that  Lm 
theeastem  crest  of  Pile.  Mountain  (0,130  ft.)  come  in  view.  Then 
Hole.m.the.Wall  Mountain  (7,500  ft.,  is  quickly  passed  on  the  rlh, 

the  sta.r  r*  f  ■'''  ■""''•  "'■'""^  "'^'^  "■)•    ^  »"'«  "eyfnd 

an  (8,850  ft)  comes  m  v,ew  on  the  right-"  a  giant's  keep,  with  tur- 

re^  bast™,  and  battlements  complete."     CasUe  Moumin  s.a.iol 

.s  on  the  right.     Here  was  once  a  mining  camp,  called  Silver  City,  but 

each  side  become  exceedingly  grand  and  prominent.     Those  on  the 
r^ht  form  the  bare,  ragged,  and  sharply  serrated  Sawback  Range    On 

cent  snow-laden  promontories.  A,  m..  only  glimpses  of  .he  mounLns 
can  be  seen  .hrough  .he  .rees,  as  you  look  ahead,  but  soon  .he  Ion.- 

Tk  of  PUo^v""":  •"  "'"•  ''°  *"  ""'  ""  "'°'""«  """''  "»  -« 
sol  ,  f  !  .  ,T  '"  ""'°' '""'  "  '""""'"g  PJ™"'"  Wgh  above  the 
square-fronted  ledges  visible  before.    Next  to  it  is  the  less  lofty  but 

almost  equally  imposing  cone  of  Copper  Mouutoin  (8,500  f..),  square 

ly  opposLe  .he  sombre  precipices  of  CasUe  Mountain.     Beyond  Cop- 


i 


294        THE  ROCKY   MOUNTAIN   PARK   OF  CANADA. 


per  Mountain,  tlie  gap  of  Vermilion  Pass  (so  called  because  of  the  yel- 
low ochre,  which  the  Indians  found  here  and  used  uh  paint  or  vermil- 
ion) opens  through  the  range,  permitting  a  view  of  many  a  lofty  spire 
and  icy  crest  along  the  continental  watershed  from  whose  glaciers  and 
snow- fields  the  Vermilion  River  flows  westward  into  the  Kootenay. 
The  long,  rugged  front  of  Mount  Temple  is  W.  of  the  entrance  to  the 
Pasrf,  and  beyond  is  the  isolated  helmet-shaped  Lefroy  Mountain  (11,- 
6G0  ft.)  that  rises  supreme  over  this  part  of  the  range — the  loftiest 
and  grandest  peak  in  the  entire  panorama.  It  takes  its  name  from 
General  Sir  Henry  Lefroy,  who  made  the  first  magnetic  survey  of  Brit- 
ish America.  This  great  mountain  becomes  visible  at  Cascade  and 
from  Eldon  (2,370  miles,  altitude  4,'720);  almost  to  the  summit  it  is  the 
most  conspicuous  and  admirable  feature  of  this  wonderful  valley.  Lag- 
gan  (2,880  miles,  altitude  4,930  ft.)  is  at  the  foot  of  Lefroy  Mountain. 
During  the  building  of  the  road  in  1884-'85  it  was  for  a  time  the  head- 
quarters of  the  construction  of  this  part  of  the  road,  but  it  is  now  only 
the  station  for  the  three  Lakes  in  the  Clouds.  Ponies  and  vehicles  are 
here  in  waiting  for  those  who  desire  to  visit  these  picturesque  lakes.  Lake 
Louise,  which  is  the  first,  is  about  3  miles  from  the  station  by  the  car- 
riage drive,  but  there  is  a  shorter  bridle-path  across  the  face  of  the 
mountain.  Its  altitude  is  5,800  ft.  On  the  margin  of  this  beautiful 
lake  there  is  a  comfortable  chalet  hotel  where  accommodation  is  pro- 
vided. There  is  a  bridle-path  to  Mirror  Lake,  higher  up  (altitude 
6,400  ft.,  or  3,500  ft.  above  the  station)  the  mountain,  and  a  still  fur- 
ther ascent  to  Lake  Agnes  (altitude,  6,700  ft.),  so-called  in  honor  of 
Lady  Macdonald. 

After  passing  Laggan  we  cross  the  river  and  leave  the  valley  of  the 
Bow  to  ascend  Noore's  Creek,  a  tributary  from  the  W.,  which  comes 
through  a  gap  in  the  Bow  Range.  Looking  upward  through  the  gap 
towards  Bow  Lake  and  the  huge  peak  of  Mount  Hector  (named  after 
Dr.  James  Hector),  a  view  is  obtained  of  the  first  of  the  great  glaciers. 
It  is  a  broad,  crescent-shaped  river  of  ice,  the  further  end  concealed 
behind  the  lofty  yellow  cliflEs  that  hem  it  in.  It  is  1,300  ft.  above  you, 
and  more  than  a  dozen  miles  away. 

With  the  aid  of  an  extra  locomotive  the  train  slowly  ascends  towards 
the  Kicking-Horse  Pass,  also  sometimes  called  Hector  Pass,  through 
which  the  mountains  are  crossed,  and  at  the  bottom  of  which  runs  the 
foaming  Kicking-Horse  or  Wapta  River,  As  we  reach  the  summit  the 
gradient  comes  to  a  level,  and  on  the  left  we  pass  a  rustic  arch  marked 


■'  !i 


BRITISH   COLUMBIA. 


295 


"  The  Great  Divide,"  which  indicates  the  highest  point  on  the  C  P  R 
The  station  at  the  summit  is  Stephen  (2,387  miles,  altitude  5,296  ft)' 
and  the  point  at  which  we  enter  British  Columbia.  ' 

British  Columbia. 

This,  the  most  westerly  of  the  provinces  of  the  Dominion  of  Can- 
ada, 18  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Northwest  Territory,  on  the  E  by 
Athabasca  and  Alberta,  on  the  S.  by  the  States  of  Montana,  Idaho,  and 
Washington,  and  Puget  Sound,  and  on  the  W.  by  the  Pacific  Ocean 
It  has  an  area  of  383,300  square  miles,  and,  according  to  the  census  of 
1891,  a  population  of  98,1'73  inhabitants.     The  climate  varies  consider- 
ably, as  the  province  is  naturally  divided  into  two  sections,  insular  and 
continental.     It  is  much  more  moderate  and  equable  than  any  other 
province  of  the  Dominion.    In  the  S.  W.  portion  of  the  mainland  and 
particularly  on  the  S.  E.  pmt  of  Vancouver  Island,  the  climate  is  much 
superior  to  that  of  southern  England  or  c-ntral  France.    In  this  sec- 
tion of  the  province  snow  seldom  falls,  anc     hen  lies  but  a  few  hours 
or  days.     Vegetation  remains  green  and  th.    owers  are  bright  through 
the  greater  part  of  nearly  every  winter;  while  in  spring  and  summer 
disagreeable  E.  winds,  heavy  rains,  and  long- continued  fogs  are  un- 
known.    British  Columbia  is  one  of  the  most  important  provinces  of 
the  Dommion,  as  well  from  a  political  as  from  a  commercial  point  of 
view.     With  Vancouver  Island  it  is  to  a  maritime  nation  invaluable 
for  the  limits  of  its  coal  fields  can  only  be  guessed  at,  while  enough 
coal  has  already  been  discovered  on  that  island  to  cover  the  uses  of  a 
century.      The  harbours  of  the  province  are  unrivalled,  and  include 
Victoria  and  Vancouver.     Its  timber  is  unequalled  in  quantitv,  quality, 
or  variety ;  its  mines  already  discovered,  and  its  great  extent  of  un- 
explored country,   speak   of  vast   areas   of  rich  mineral   wealth ;  its 
waters,  comaiuing  marvellous  quantities  of  most  valuable  fish,  com- 
bine to  give  British  Columbia  a  value  that  has  been  little  understood. 

In  proportion  to  the  area  of  the  province  land  suitable  for  agricul- 
tural purposes  is  small ;  but  in  the  aggregate  there  are  manv  thousands 
of  square  miles  of  arable  soil,  so  diverse  in  character,  location,  and  cli- 
matic influences  as  to  be  suited  to  the  p-odaction  of  every  fruit,  cereal, 
vegetable,  plant,  and  flower  known  to  ;  ,.t  temperate  zone.  W.'  of  the 
Cascade  Mountains  spring  and  early  summer  rains  are  quite  sufficient 
to  bring  crops  to  maturity ;  but  farther  E.,  in  the  great  stock-raising 


296 


BRITISH   COLUMBIA. 


.    I 


interior,  irrigation  is  generall)'  required  for  mixed  farming  purposes, 
Gold  has  l)ecn  found  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Rocky  Moimtains,  on 
Queen   (-harlotte  Island  at  the  extreme  W.,   and  on  every  range  of 
mountains  that  intervene  between  these  two  extreme  points.     Among 
recent  discoveries  is  that  of  a  ledge  of  cinnabar,  found  at  Kamloops 
Lake,  known  as  the  Rose-Bush  Mine.     The  true  vein  is  reported  as  be- 
ing 14  inches  thick,  but  there  appears  to  be  a  large  scattered  quan- 
tity besides.     Silver   has   been   found   in  several  places,  and   its  fur- 
ther discovery  will  probably  show  that  it  follows  the  same  rules  as  in 
Nevada  and  Colorado.     The  best  known  argentiferous  locality  is  near 
Hope,  on  the  Fraser  River.     Great  iron  deposits  exist  on  Texada  Island 
and  copper  deposits  have  been  found  at  several  points  on  the  coast 
of  the  mainland,  Howe  Sound,  Jarvis  Inlet,  Queen  Charlotte  Island, 
and  other  points.     Bituminous  coal  has  been  worked  for  many  years 
at    Nanaimo,   on   Vancouver   Island,   where    there  arc    large   depos- 
its and  indications  of  coal  have  been  fotmd  at  other  places  on  that 
island.     Several  seams  of  bituminous  coal  have  been  discovered  on  the 
mainland,  and  some  veins  have  been  worked  in  the  New  Westminster 
and  Nicola  districts,  and  other  indications  of  coal  have  been  found  in 
several  parts.     A  most  phenomenal  discovery  of  coal  has  been  made  in 
the  Crow's  Nest  Pass  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.     Here  no  fewer  than 
twenty  seams  are  seen  to  outcrop,  with  a  total  thickness  of  from  182 
ft.  to  148  ft.     Anthracite  coal  is  now  being  extensively  mined  at  An- 
thracite, on  the  line  of  the  C.  P.  R.,  and  some  comparing  favourably 
with  that  of  Pennsylvania  has  been  found  in  seams  of  6  ft.  on  Queen 
Charlotte  Island.     In  respect  to  timber,  there  is  no  other  province  of 
Canada,  no  country  in  Europe,  and  no  State  in  the  United  States  that 
compares  with  it.     There  are  prairies  here  and  there,  valleys  free  from 
wood,  and  many  openings  in  the  thickest  country,  which  in  the  aggre- 
gate make  many  hundred  thousands  of  acres  of  land  on  which  no 
clearing  is  required,  but  near  each  open  spot  is  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
wood.     The  finest  growth  is  on  the  coast,  and  in  the  Gold  and  Selkirk 
ranges.     Millions  on  millions  of  feet  of  lumber,  locked  up  for  centuries 
past,  have  now  become  available  for  commerce.     In  addition  to  the 
advantages  already  referred  to,  British  Columbia  offers  great  attrac- 
tions to  the  lover  of  rod  and  gun.     Of  game,  large  and  small,  there  is 
a  great  variety.     On  the  mainland  are  grizzly,  black,  and  brown  bears, 
panthers,  lynx,  elk,  caribou,  deer,  mountain  sheep  and  goats,  heads  and 
skins  of  which  are  the  finest  trophies  of  a  sportsman's  rifle.     Water- 


BRITISH    COLUMBIA. 


297 


fowl,  geese,  duck  etc.,  are  very  abundant  on  the  larger  lakes,  and  the«e 
and  .evera  varieties  of  grouse  are  the  principal  feathered  game,  and  can 

*rora  Stephen  the  Ime  descends  rapidly,  passing  the  beautiful  Wapta 
Lake  a    Beeior  (2,389  m.les,  altitude  5.190  ft.),  and  crossing  the  deep 
gorge  of  the  Wapta  River,  just  beyond.     The  scenery  is  nofv  subUrne 
and  almost  terrible.     The  line  clings  to  the  mountain-side  at  the  leTt 
and  the  valley  on  the  right  rapidly  deepens  until  the  river  is  seen  a    J 
gleaming  thread  a  thousand  feet  below.     Looking  to  the  right,  one  o 
the  grandest  mountain  valleys  in  the  world  stretches  away  to   he  N 
with  great  wh.te,  glacier-bound  peaks  on  either  side.     In  front  of  us 
the  dark  angular  peak  of  Mo.mt  Field  (8.555  ft.)  is  seen.     On  the  left 
the  lofty  head  of  Mount  Stephen  (10,425  ft.)  and  the  spires  of  Cathe- 
dral  Mount  (10,285  ft.),  still  farther  to  the  left,  occasionally  appear  over 
the  tree-tops.     This  peak  has  been  not  inaptly  compared  io  the  Duomo 
of  Milan      Soon  the  slope  of  Mount  Stephen  is  reached,  and  on  its 

800  ft      ^T:  ^''^  T''  ^^"'^*^''  ''  ^^«"  ^  ^^'•-"S  «'•-  g>aei 

tical  cliff   T     Tu  "•"'  "  ^''" -^  P"""'^  ^""^'^'•^  -^  --a  ver.' 
tical  chff  of  great  height.     Mount  Stephen  is  named  after  Sir  George 

Stephen  the  first  President  of  the  C.  P.  R..  and  in  1891,  when  he  was 

ThlTl  *^**".P^«^^g«'h«  «hose  as  his  title  Lord  Mount-Stephen. 
Ihe  works  of  a  silver  mine  are  seen  on  the  side  of  Mount  Stephen  «ev 
eral  hundred  feet  above  the  road.  Passing  through  a  short  tunnel,  and 
hugging  the  baseof  the  mountain  closely,  the  main  peak  is  lost  to  vie ' 
for  a  few  minutes  ;  but  as  the  train  turns  sharply  away  it  soon  reap 
pears  with  startling  suddenness,  and  when  its  highly  colored  dome 
and  spires  are  illuminated  by  the  sun  it  seems  to  rise  as  a  flame  shoot- 
ing  into  the  sky. 

Ri.p1:  ''TJ'Tll"  "^^^^  "'"^^  '^'  pathway  and  by  the  Wapta 
Rw  r  and  then  F^eld  (2,391  miles,  altitude  4,050  ft.),  a  tiny  hamlet  on 
Its  left  bank,  named  after  Cyrus  W.  Field,  of  New  York,  is  reached 

tlTV  T'  *''  '''  ^''""'"^  ^''"*^' ''  '  comfortable  stopping! 
place  for  those  who  desire  to  indulge  in  the  excellent  fly-fishing  fo^- 
trout  m  the  pretty  lake  near  by.  The  station  is  at  the  base  of  the 
mountain  and  Its  ascent  is  usually  made  from  here.  Two  days  should 
be  taken  for  this,  and  the  view  from  the  summit  is  superb.  Lookin. 
down  the  valley  the  Ottertail  Mountains  are  on  the  left  and  the  Van 

fr! T  TTZ^"  "^'''-  '^^^  '"^^^  P^^"^"^'^*  ^'^^^  of  the  latter 
are  Mount  De  VUle,  named  after  the  Surveyor-General  of  the  Dominion 


298 


BRITISH   COLUMBIA. 


and  Mount  King,  mimed  after  F.  Kinp,  a  topographer  of  this  region. 
Two  miles  beyond  Field  very  lofty  glacier-bearing  heights  are  seen  to- 
wards the  N.  The  line  ris»es  from  tlie  flats  of  the  Wapta,  and  after 
crossing  a  high  bridge  over  the  Ottertail  River  (whence  one  of  the 
finest  views  is  obtairiod)  descends  again  to  the  Wapta,  whose  narrow 
valley  divides  the  Ottertail  and  Van  Home  Ranges.  This  range  re- 
ceives its  name  from  Sir  William  C.  Van  Home,  the  President  of  the 
C.  P.  R.  The  line,  which  has  gradually  curved  towards  the  S.  since 
crossing  the  summit  at  Stephen,  runs  due  S.  from  here  to  Leanchoil 
(2,410  miles,  altitude  3,570  ft.),  where  the  Beaverfoot  River  comes  in 
from  the  S.  and  joins  the  Wapta.  At  the  left,  the  highest  peaks  of 
the  Ottertail  Mountains,  rise  abruptly  to  an  immense  height,  and,  look- 
ing S.  E.,  extend  in  orderly  array  towards  the  Beaverfoot  Mountains.  At 
the  right,  Mt.  Hunter  pushes  its  huge  mass  forward  like  a  wedge  be- 
tween the  Ottertail  and  Beaverfoot  Ranges.  The  river  turns  abruptly 
against  its  base  and  plunges  into  the  lower  Kicking-horse  Canon,  down 
which  it  disputes  the  passage  with  the  railway.  The  canon  rapidly 
deepens,  until,  beyond  PalHser  (2,418  miles,  altitude  3,250  ft.),  the 
mountain-sides  become  vertical,  rising  straight  up  thousands  of  feet, 
and  within  an  easy  stone's  throw  from  wall  to  wall.  Down  this  vast 
chasm  the  railway  and  the  river  go  together,  the  former  crossing  from 
side  to  side  on  ledges  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  twisting  and  turn- 
ing in  every  direction,  and  plunging  through  projecting  angles  of  rock 
which  seem  to  close  the  way.  With  the  towering  cliffs  almost  shut- 
ting out  the  sunlight,  and  the  roar  of  the  river  and  the  train  increased 
by  the  echoing  walls,  the  passage  of  this  terrible  gorge  will  never  be 
forgotten. 

Downward  we  continue  and  the  train  emerges  into  daylight  as  Oold- 
en  (2,413  miles,  altitude  2,550  ft),  at  the  junction  of  the  Wapta  and 
Columbia  Rivers,  is  reached.  It  is  a  little  mining  town,  and  is  the 
point  of  departure  for  the  East  Kootenay  raining  district.  In  the  vicin- 
ity, and  especially  at  the  base  of  the  Spillimichene  Mountains,  there  are 
numerous  gold  and  silver  mines.  The  bi'oad  river  ahead  is  the  Colum- 
bia, and  a  steamer  makes  weekly  trips  from  Golden  to  the  lakes  at  the 
head  of  the  river,  iOO  miles  distant.  After  leaving  Golden  the  line 
turns  abruptly  to  the  N.,  and  descends  the  open  valley  of  the  Columbia 
on  the  face  of  the  lower  bench  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  while  on  the 
right  the  Selkirk  Mountains,  rising  from  their  forest- clad  bases,  and 
lifting  their  ice-crowned  heads  far  into  the  sky,  are  in  full  view  all  the 


DONALD   TO   VANCOUVER. 


299 


way  and  the  paths  of  avahinches  are  dearly  indicated  by  the  soft  green 
streaks  down  their  sides.     Moherly  (2,431  miles,  altitude  2,650  ft )  is 
the  site  of  the  oldest  cabin  in  the  mountains,  where  a  Government 
engmeenngparty  under  Walter  Moberly  passed  the  winter  of  1871-'72 
A  few  miles  through  the  woods,  and  then  several  sawn.ills  are  passed' 
after  which  we  soon  reach  Donald  (2,448  miles,  altitude  2,630  ft )' 
the  terminus  of  the  Western  Division  and  the  beginning  of  the  Pacific 
Division  of  the  C.  PR.     This  small  place  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the 
base  ot  the  Dogtooth  Mountains,  and  was  long  the  headquarters  of  con- 
struction of  the  mountain  division  of  the  railway.     It  consists  chieflv 
of  various  railway  offices,  with  the  homes  of  the  divisional  officers" 
The  mining  country  about  it,  and  at  the  great  bend  of  the  Columbia 
River  below,  obtain  their  supplies  from  here.     Here  also  the   time 
changes  from  Mountain  to  Pacific  time,  which  is  one  hour  earlier. 

Donald  to  Vancouver. 

Leaving  Donald,  the  railway  crosses  the  Columbia  River  on  a  steel 
bridge  to  the  base  of  the  Selkirks.     A  little  farther  down,  the  Rockies 
and  the  Selkirks,  crowding  together,  force  the  river  through  a  deep 
narrow  gorge,  the  railway  clinging  to  the  slopes  high  above  it.    Emev^. 
ing  from  the  gorge  at  Bcavermouth  (2,459  miles,  altitude  2,510  ft ) 
the  line  turns  abruptly  to  the  left  and  enters  the  Selkirks  through  the 
Gate  of  the  Beaver  River-a  passage  so  narrow  that  a  felled  tree  serves 
as  a  foot-bridge  over  it-just  where  the  river  makes  its  final  and  mad 
plunge  down  to  the  level  of  the  Columbia  River.     Soon  the  line  crosses 
to  the  right  bank  of  the  Beaver  River,  where,  notched  into  the  moun- 
tain-side,  it  rises  at  the  rate  of  116  ft.  to  the  mile,  and  the  river  is  soon 
eft  a  thousand  feet  below,  appearing  as  a  silver  thread  winding  through 
he  narrow  and  densely  forested  valley.     Opposite  is  a  line  of  huge 
tree-clad  hills,  occasionally  showing  snow-covered  heads  above  the  tim- 
ber  line.     Nature  has  worked  here  on  so  gigantic  a  scale  that  many 
travellers  fail  to  notice  the  extraordinary  height  of  the  spruce,  Douglas 
fir  and  cedar  trees,  which  seem  to  be  engaged  in  a  vain  competition 
wi  h  the  mountams  themselves.     From  Six-Mile  Creek  (2,465  miles 
a^^titude  2,900  ft.),  up  the  Beaver  Valley,  may  be  seen  a  bng  line  of 
the  higher  peaks  of  the  Selkirks  that  culminate  in  a  spire  suggesting 
*he  Matterhorn  and  called  Sir  Donald  (10,662  ft.).     A  few  miles  be 
yond,  at  Mountain  Creek  bridge,  where  a  powerful  torrent  comes  down 


la 


300 


DONALD   TO   VANCOUVER. 


from  the  N.,  a  Bimilar  view  is  obtained,  only  nearer  and  larger,  and 
eight  peaks  can  be  counted,  the  last  of  which  U  Sir  Donald,  leading  the 
line.  A  little  farther  on  Cedar  Creek  i.s  crossed,  and  not  far  W.  of  it 
is  a  very  high  bridge,  spanning  a  foaming  cascade,  whence  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  prospects  of  the  whole  journey  is  to  be  had. 

As  Hear  Creek  (2,474  miles,  altitude  3,500  ft.)  is  approached,  a 
glimpse  is  caught  of  Hermit  Mountain  (9,065  ft.).  Here  we  leave 
the  Beaver  River  and  make  the  ascent  of  the  Selkirks  up  Bear  Creek. 
Mountain  torrents,  many  of  them  in  splendid  cascades  which  come 
down  through  narrow  gorges  cut  deeply  into  the  slopes  along  which  the 
railway  creeps,  are  crossed  by  strong  bridges.  The  largest  of  these  is 
over  Stony  Creek — a  noisy  rill  flowing  in  the  bottom  of  a  narrow  T- 
shaped  channel  295  ft.  below  the  rails — one  of  the  highest  railway 
bridges  in  the  world.  Snow-sheds  of  massive  timber  work  protect 
these  bridges  from  the  snow  in  winter.  Beyond  the  bridge  at  Stony 
Creek  the  gorge  of  Bear  Creek  is  compressed  into  a  ravine,  with  Mount 
Macdonald  (9,940  ft.)  on  the  left  and  the  Hermit  on  the  right,  forming 
the  entrance  to  Rogers's  Pass  at  the  summit.  The  former  towers  above 
the  railway  in  almost  vertical  height.  Its  base  is  but  a  stone's  throw 
distant,  and  it  is  so  sheer,  so  bare  and  stupendous,  and  yet  so  near, 
that  one  is  overawed  by  a  sense  of  immensity  and  mighty  grandeur. 
In  passing  before  the  face  of  '.his  gigantic  precipice  the  line  clings  to 
the  base  of  Hermit  Mountain,  and  as  the  station  at  Rogers's  Pass  is 
neared  its  clustered  spires  appear,  facing  those  of  Mount  Macdonald, 
and  nearly  as  high.  These  two  mountains  were  once  apparently  united, 
but  some  great  convulsion  of  Nature  has  split  them  asunder,  leaving 
barely  room  for  the  passage  of  a  train. 

The  station  of  Rogers's  Pass  (2,479  miles,  altitude  4,725  ft.)  takes 
its  name  from  Major  T.  B.  Rogel-s,  by  whom  the  pass  was  discovered 
in  1883.  The  Government  has  reserved  this  pass  with  its  magnificent 
mountain  scenery  as  a  National  Park.  A  few  miles  beyond  we  reach 
Selkirk  Summit  (2,481  miles,  altitude  4,300  ft.),  and  then  turning  to 
the  left  we  follow  in  our  descent  the  slope  of  the  Summit  peaks.  To 
the  right,  surrounded  by  a  pyramidal  peak,  is  Cheops  Mountain ;  and 
looking  out  of  the  pass  towards  the  W.,  and  over  the  deep  valley  of  the 
lUicilliwaet,  is  Ross  Peak,  a  massive  and  symmetrical  mountain,  with 
an  immense  glacier  on  its  eastern  slope.  Below  is  the  deep  valley  of 
the  lUicilliwaet,  and  for  miles  away  can  be  traced  the  railway  seeking 
the  bottom  of  the  valley  by  a  series  of  curves,  doubling  upon  itself 


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DONALD  TO   VANCOUVBR. 


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min  and  ORaln.     D.ro,.tly  ahond  h  tl.e  (Jreat  Olaolcr,  a  v.«t  plnteau 
of  Kleanung  uv  .'xtondinK  um  far  aH  the  «je  can  roach,  as  large  a8  uU 
those   of  Swit/...rh,n.|   n.n.bined.       Ve   continuo   to  draw  noaror  and 
nearer,  nntil  at   a/arhr  //onm  (2,48;{  niilcH,  altitude  4,122  ft )  we  are 
^    withm  Hfteen  ,„inute.'  walk  of  it.    To  the  left  of  the  station  Sir  Donald 
rises,  a  naked  and  al.nipt  pyianu.l  (!(.,««2  ft).     This  monolith  was 
named  after  Sir  Donald  Smith,  one  of  the  chief  promoters  of  the  ('  P 
R.     farther  to  the  left  are  two  or  three  sharp  peaks,  second  only  to 
Sir  Donald.     Ro-ers's  Pass  and  the  snowy  mountain  beyond  (a  n.en.her 
of  llie  Hermit  Ran^e,  which  is  .alkxl  (Jri/./.ly)  are  in  full  view.     Again 
to  the  IcU  comes  Cheops,  and  in  the  forcK'roun.l,  and  far  down  anumg 
•he  trees,  the  Illicilliwaet  glistens.     Somewhat  at  the  left  of  (.'heops  a 
shoulder  of  Ross  Peuk  is  visible  over  the  wooded  slope  of  the  mountain 
behmd   the  hotel.      The  latter,  resembling  u  Swiss  chalet,   has    been 
erected  by  the  railway  for  the  accommodation  of  the  many  tourists 
who  desire  to  stop  over  ai  this  point,     (lame  is  abundant  throughout 
these  lofty  ranges.     Their  sum.nits  are  the  home  of  the  bighorn  sheep 
and  the  mountain  goat,  the  latter  being  seldom  found  southward  of 
Canada.     Bears  can  also  be  obtained.     Continuing  the  descent  from 
the  (Jlacier  House,  and  following  aroun.i  the  mountain-side,  the  Loop 
is  reached,  where  the  line  makes  several  startling  turns  and  twists  first 
crossmg  a  valley  leading  down  from  the  Ross  Peak  glacier,  touching 
for  a  moment  on  the  base  of  Ross  Peak,  then  doubling  back  to  the 
nght  a  niile  or  more  upon  itself  to  within  a  few  feet,  then  sweeping 
around  to  the  left,  touching  Cougar  Mountain  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Hhcilliwaet,  crossing  again  to  the  left,  and  at  last  shooting  down  the 
valley  parallel  with  its  former  course.     Looking  back,  the  railway  is 
seen  cutting  two  long  gashes,  one  above  the  other,  on  tlie  mountain 
slope,  and  farther  to  the  left,  and  high  above  the  long  snow-shed,  the 
Summit  Range,  near  Rogers's  Pass,  is  yet  visible,  with  Sir  Donald  over- 
looking ill. 

The  Illicilliwaet  River,  though  of  no  great  size,  is  a  turbulent  moun- 
tain stream  whose  water  is  at  first  pea-green  with  glacier  mud,  but 
clarifies  as  it  descends.  After  passing  Iio,s  Peak  (2,490  miles,  altitude 
3,600  ft.)  we  reach  lUiciUlwaet  (2,499  miles,  altitude  3,593  ft.)  near 
where  are  several  silver  nunes,  from  which  large  shipments  of  rich  ore 
have  already  been  made.  Just  E.  of  the  Albert  Canoii  (2,505  mi]e« 
altitude  2,845  ft.)  the  train  runs  along  .the  brink  of  several  deep 
fissures  in  the  solid  rock,  whose  walls  rise  straight  up,  hundreds  of  feet 


302 


DONALD   TO  VANOOUVLB. 


iiln; 


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on  both  sides,  to  wooded  craps,  above  which  sharp,  distant  peaks  cut 
the  sky.  The  most  striking  of  these  canons  is  the  Albert,  where  the 
river  is  seen  nearly  300  ft.  below  the  railway,  compressed  into  a  boil- 
ing flume  scarcely  20  ft.  wide.  The  train  stops  here  for  a  few  minutep, 
and  dolidly  built  balconies  enable  passengers  to  safely  look  into  the 
boiling  caiddron  below.  The  next  station  is  Twin  Bnttc.  (2,515  miles), 
that  takes  its  name  from  the  huge  double  smnmit  near  by,  now  called 
Mounts  Mackenzie  and  Tilley.  Beyond  the  station  on  the  right  is  the 
peak  of  Clach-na-Coodin,  so  called  after  the  "  stone  of  the  tubs " 
in  Inverness,  Scotland.  As  we  approach  the  western  base  of  the  Se?- 
kirks  the  valley  narrows  to  a  gorge,  and  the  railway  and  river  dispute 
the  passage  through  a  chusm  with  vertical  rocky  walls  standing  but  ten 
yards  apart.  The  line  suddenly  emerges  into  an  open,  level,  and  for- 
est-covered  space,  swings  to  the  right,  and  reaches  Rtvchtoke  (2,527 
miles,  altitude  1,475  ft.),  a  divisional  point  on  the  bank  of  Columbia 
River.  The  town  is  half  a  mile  from  the  stution,  and  is  a  distributing 
point  for  the  adjacent  mining  camps.  A  branch  extends  S.  from  here 
a  few  miles  to  Arrow  Ldkc,  from  where  a  steamboat  runs  165  miles 
down  the  Columbia  River,  through  lovely  scenery,  to  Robson.  Here  a 
branch  of  the  C.  P.  R.  extends  to  Nelson,  or  a  steamboat  may  be  taken 
down  the  Columbia  to  Northport,  where  rail  connection  can  be  had  for 
Spokane  in  Washington.  After  leaving  the  station  at  Revelstoke  the 
Columbia  is  crossed  on  a  bridge  half  a  mile  long,  end  the  'lold  Range 
is  entered  by  the  Eagle  Pass.  We  reach  the  higaest  point  at  Summit 
Lake,  only  525  ft.,  above  the  river  some  8  '.niles  distant.  EJere  in 
close  succession  occur  four  beautiful  lakes — Summit,  Victor,  Three  Val- 
ley, and  Griffin — each  occupying  the  entire  width  of  the  valley  and 
forcing  the  railway  to  c^srve  for  itself  a  path  in  the  mountain-side.  The 
valley  is  filled  with  a  dense  growth  of  immense  spruce,  hemlock,  fir, 
cedar,  and  other  trees,  and  in  consequence  saw-mills  abound.  At 
Craigellachie  (2,555  miles,  altitude  1,450  ft.)  we  have  reached  the  val- 
ley again,  and  here,  on  November  7,  1885,  the  last  spike  was  driven  in 
the  C.  P.  R.,  the  rails  from  the  E.  and  the  W.  meeting  at  this  otherwise 
insignificant  flag  station.  The  train  passes  on  through  a  forest  of 
dense  timber,  close  to  the  Eagle  River,  and  reaches  on  the  right  the 
Shuswap  Lake.  In  the  vicinity  of  this  lake  is  one  of  the  best  sport- 
ing regions  on  the  line.  Northward,  within  a  day,  caribou  are  abun- 
dant ;  the  deer  shooting  southward  within  30  miles  is  probably  unex- 
celled on  this  continent,  and  on  the  lakes  there  is  famous  sport  in 


DONALD   TO   VANCOUVER. 


303 


deep  trolling  for  trout.  We  cross  an  arm  of  the  lake  just  before  arriv- 
ing at  Sicamou9  Junction  (2,571  miles,  altitude  1,500  ft)  on  the  S 
bank  of  the  Great  Shuswap  Lake.  It  is  t'..e  station  for  the  Spallum* 
sheen  mining  district  and  other  regions  up  tho  river  around  Okanagan 
Lake,  where  there  is  a  large  settlement.  A  branch  of  the  C  P  R 
runs  S.  51  miles  to  Okavagan  Landing,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Okanagan' 
a  magnificent  sheet  of  water,  on  which  the  staunch  steamer  "Aber' 
deen  "  plies  to  Kclowna  and  to  Petificon,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake 

Resuming  our  journey  westward,  the  line  winds  in  and  out  the  bend 
mg  shores  of  Lake  Shuswap,  and  the  outlook  "  gives  a  fine  reminder 
of  Scottish  scenery."     Some  20  miles  beyond  the  station  we  double  a 
southern  extension  of  the  lake  called  the  Salmon  Arm,  and  then  strike 
through  the  forest  over  the  top  of  the  intervening  ridge  of  Notch  Hill 
that  gives  Its  name  to  the  station  on  the  summit  (altitude  1  708  ft ) 
The  view  of  the  adjacent  country  from  this  point  is  remarkably  fine' 
Besides  the  natural  features,  the  fields  and  farmhouses  with  herds  of 
cattle  and  sheep  remind  one  that  we  are  approaching  the  coast     Near 
Shmwap  (2,607  miles)  wo  regain  the  shores  of  the  lake  and  run  for 
some  distance  along  the  Little  Shuswap  Lake,  as  this  extension  is  called 
The  lake  narrows  in  a  broad  stream  called  South  Thompson  River  and 
we  continue  along  the  valley,  which  as  it  widens  gladdens  our  eyes 'with 
signs  of  settlement  and  cultivation  that  so  help  to  relieve  that  deep 
sense  of  loneliness  that  almost  oppresses  one  in  travelling  in  a  wild 
country.     There  are  Indian  villages  in  the  vicinitv,  and  their  half-civil- 
ised  homes  and  wealth  of  ponies  are  frequently  seen,  as  we  reach  and 
pass  Ducks  (2,638  miles),  near  which  is  one  of  the  old  ranches  that 
dates  back  to  the  times  of  the  gold  excitement  on  the  Pacific  coast 
Kamloops  (2,655  miles),  with  a  population  of  2,000  inhabitants    is  a 
divisional  point  and  the  principal  source  of  supply  for  the  extensive 
mining  and  grazing  district  of  the  Thomj,son  River  Valley      It  was 
originally  a  fur-trading  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.     Its  nanie  signifies 
conduence  in  the  Indian  tongue,  and  it  is  at  the  junction  of  the  N  and 
S.  branches  of  the  Thompson  River.     In  the  angle  formed  by  the  two 
branches  of  the  river  is  an  Indian  village,  and  the  mountain  that  towers 
above  It  IS  Saul's  Peak  (3,570  ft.).     Stage  lines  extend  southward  to 
the  ranching  and  mineral  districts  that  are  to  the  S.  in  the  Okanagan 
and  Nicola  Valleys.     Just  beyond  Kamloops  the  river  widens  into  a 
broad,  beautiful  hill-girt  sheet  of  water  called  K.amloops  Lake,  along 
the  S.  bank  of  which  the  railway  runs  for  some  20  miles.     Half-way  a 


II 


304 


DONALD   TO   VANCOUVER. 


l\:\\ 


series  of  mountain  spurs  project  into  the  lake  and  are  pierced  by  nu- 
merous tunnels,  one  following  the  other  in  close  succession.  At  Savo- 
na^s  Ferry  (2,680  miles)  the  lake  ends,  the  mountains  draw  near,  and 
the  series  of  Thompson  River  canons  is  entered,  leading  westward  to 
the  Fraser  through  marvellous  scenery.  At  low  tide  Chinamen  and 
Indians  are  often  seen  busily  engaged  in  washing  the  river  gravel  for 
gold.  Mercury  mines  of  great  value  have  been  discovered  in  this  local- 
ity. From  here  to  Port  Moody  the  ailway  was  built  by  the  Dominion 
Government  and  transferred  to  the  C.  P.  R.  in  1886.  Penny's  (2,68*7 
miles)  is  an  old- time  ranching  settlement.  Ashcroft  (2,702  miles)  is  a 
busy  town,  and  the  point  of  departure  for  the  stage  lines  that  run  to 
Cariboo,  Barkerville,  and  other  gold  fields  in  the  northern  interior  of 
British  Columbia.  Frequent  trains  of  freight  wagons  drawn  by  yokes 
of  oxen,  and  long  strings  of  pack-mules  laden  with  merchandise,  de- 
part from  and  arrive  here.  There  are  large  cattle  ranches  in  the  vicin- 
ity, and  some  farming  is  done.  Three  miles  beyond  Ashcroft  the  hills 
press  close  upon  the  Thompson  River,  which  cuts  its  way  through  a 
winding  gorge  of  desolation,  fitly  called  Black  Canon.  Emerging,  the 
train  follows  the  river  as  it  meanders  swiftly  among  the  round-topped, 
treeless,  and  water-cut  hills.  At  Spence's  Bridge  (2,728  miles)  the  old 
wagon-road  up  the  valley  to  the  Cariboo  gold  country  crosses  the  river ; 
and  the  line  crosses  the  mouth  of  the  Nicola  River,  whose  valley,  to  the 
S.,  is  a  grazing  and  ranching  region.  Beyond  this  point  the  scenery  be- 
comes very  striking  and  peculiar.  The  train  runs  upon  a  sinuous  ledge 
cut  out  of  the  bare  hills  on  the  irregular  S.  side  of  the  stream,  where 
the  headlands  are  penetrated  by  tunnels,  and  the  ravines  spanned  by 
lofty  bridges ;  and  the  Thompson  whirls  down  its  winding  path,  as 
green  as  an  emerald.  At  times  the  banks  are  rounded,  cream-white 
slopes  ;  next,  cliffs  of  richest  yellow,  streaked  and  dashed  with  maroon, 
jut  out ;  then  masses  of  solid  rust-red  earth,  suddenly  followed  by  an 
olive-green  grass  slope  or  some  white  exposure.  Besides  the  interest  of 
great  height  and  breadth  of  prospect  there  is  a  constantly  changing 
grotesqueness  of  form,  caused  by  the  wearing  down  of  rocks  by  water 
and  wind  iuto  strange  forms.  Beyond  Drynoch  (2,734  miles),  Nicomen, 
a  little  mining  town,  is  seen  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  where 
gold  was  discovered  in  British  Columbia  in  1857.  The  mountains  draw 
together  to  a  narrow  causeway,  called  Thompson's  Caiion,  and  the  rail- 
way winds  along  their  face  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  river.  The 
gorge  narrows  and  the  scenery  beco-nes  wild  beyond  description. 


DONALD  TO  VANCOUVER. 


305 


At  Lytton  (2,750  railes),  a  small  trading  town,  the  canon  suddenly 
widens  to  admit  the  Fraser,  the  chief  river  of  British  Columbia  that 
comes  down  from  the  N.  between  two  lines  of  mountain  peaks.  '  It  is 
named  after  Simon  Frasei-,  an  early  officer  of  the  Northwest  Fur  Co.    The 
railway  now  follows  the  canon   of  the  united  rivers,  and  the  scene  be- 
comes even  wilder  than  before.      Six  miles   below  Lytton  the  train 
crosses  the  Fraser  River  by  a  steel  cantilever  bridge  (said  to  be  the 
first  true  cantilever  ever   built),  plunges  into   a  tunnel,  and   shortly 
emerges  at  Cisco  (2,151  miles).    The  line  then  follows  the  right-hand 
Bide  of  the  canon,  with  the  river  surging  f.ir  below.     The  old  Govern- 
ment road  to  Cariboo  follows  the  Fraser  and  Thompson  Valleys  and  is 
seen  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river.     It  twists  and  iurns  about  'the  cliffs 
sometimes  venturing  down  to  the  river's  side,  whence  it  is  quickly 
driven  back  by  an  angry  turn  of  the  waters.     Six  miles  below  Cisco 
where  it  follows  the  cliffs  opposite  to  the  railway,  it  is  forced  to  the 
height  of  1,000  feet  above   the  river,  and  is   pinned  by  seemingly 
slender  sticks  to  the  face  of  the  precipice.     The  caiion  alternately 
widens  and  narrows.    Indians  may  be  seen  on  projecting  rocks  at  the 
water's  edge,  spearing  salmon  or  scooping  them  out  with  dip.  nets,  and 
in  sunny  spots  the  salmon  are  drying  on  poles.     Often  Chinamen  are 
passed  who  are  washing  the  sand  of  the  river  for  the  precious  metal 
which  they  crave  even  more  than  food.     Aorth  Bend  (2,111  miles)  is  a 
divisional  point,  and  a  convenient  stopping-place  for  those  who  desire 
to  explore  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Fraser  at  greater  leisure  than  the 
rapid  movement  of  the  train  will  permit,  or  perhaps  to  spend  a  short 
time  in  shooting  and  fishing.     Comfortable  quarters  can  be  had  at  the 
little  hotel  near  the  station.     At  4  miles  below  the  principal  caiion  of 
the  Fraser  River  begins,  and  from  here  onward  for  23  railes  the  scenery 
is  not  only  intensely  interesting  but  startling,  and  has  been  even  described 
as  "matchless."    The  great  river  is  forced  between  vertical  walls  of 
black  rocks,  where,  repeatedly  thrown  back  upon  itself  by  opposing 
cliffs  or  broken  by  ponderous  masses  of  fallen  rock,  it  roars  and  foams. 
The  jutting  spurs  of  the  cliff  are  pierced  by  tunnels  in  close  succession' 
At  Spmzum  (2,192  miles)  the  old  Government  road  crosses  the  chasm 
by  a  graceful  suspension  bridge  to  the  side  of  the  railway  and  keeps 
with  it  for  some  distance.     The  road  is  now  seldom  used  except  as  an 
Indian  trail.     Just  before  reaching   Yale  (2,803  railes)  the  enormous 
cliffs  apparently  shut  together  as  if  to  bar  the  way.     The  river  then 
toakea  an  abrupt  turn  to  the  left,  and  the  railway,  turning  to  the 


m 


306 


DONALD  TO  VANCOUVER. 


right,  disappears  into  a  long  tunnel,  emerging  into  daylight  and  re- 
joining the  river  as  we  approach  the  station.  Yale  is  an  old  trading- 
post  and  fror.tier  town,  with  some  1,500  inhabitants.  It  is  an  outfitting 
point  for  miners  and  ranchmen  northward.  Indian  huts  are  to  be 
seen  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  and  in  the  town  a  conspicuous 
joss-house  indicates  the  presence  of  Chinamen,  who  may  be  seen  wash- 
ing for  gold  on  the  river  bars  below.  Yale  is  at  the  head  of  navigation 
of  the  lower  Fraser  River,  and  was  once  the  leading  place  of  the 
province.  After  leaving  this  town  the  river  widens  and  becomes  less 
turbulent.  Soon  Hope  (2,81*7  miles)  is  reached,  with  the  village  proper 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bank.  To  the  S.  W.  are  the  Hope  Peaks, 
where  rich  silver  lodes  exist,  and  only  await  suitable  fuel  to  be 
worked  profitably.  The  valley  continues  to  broaden,  and  well-cultivated 
fields  become  more  and  more  frequent.  Rnhy  Creek  (2,524  miles)  is 
named  from  the  garnets  found  in  the  vicinity.  Agassiz  (2,835  miles), 
overlooked  by  Mount  Cheam  (11,000  feet),  is  the  station  for  the  hot 
sulphur  Harrison  Springn  (St.  Alice  Hotel),  on  Harrison  Lake,  5  miles 
X.  Near  Harrison  (2,844  miles)  the  Hanison  River  is  crossed,  just 
above  its  confluence  with  the  Fraser.  Until  the  opening  of  the  Fraser 
route,  in  1864,  the  only  access  to  the  gold  diggings  in  the  northern  in- 
terior of  the  province  was  by  way  of  the  Harrison  Valley.  A  few  miles 
beyond  Nicomen  (2,853  miles)  the  beautiful  isolated  cone  of  Mount 
Baker  (13,000  feet)  comes  into  view  on  the  left.  From  Mission  JunC' 
Hon  (2,86S  miles),  where  the  Roman  Catholic  Indian  Mission  of  St.  Mary 
has  long  been  m  existence,  a  branch  crosses  the  Fraser  River  and  runs 
to  the  internatioTial  boundary  line,  where  connection  is  made  with  the 
Bellingham  Bay  and  British  Columbia  Ry.  for  New  Whatcom,  Wash  , 
connecting  there  with  the  Great  Northern  Ry.  for  Seattle,  thence  by 
the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  to  Tacoma,  Portland,  and  all  points  in  Ore- 
gon and  California.  At  the  crossing  of  the  Stave  River,  8  miles  be- 
yond, the  finest  view  of  Mount  Baker  is  had,  looking  back  and  up  the 
Fraser,  which  has  become  a  mighty  river.  Immense  trees  are  now  fre. 
quent,  and  their  size  is  indicated  by  the  enormous  stumps  near  the 
railway.  On  approaching  Hammond  (2,881  miles)  extensive  brick-yards 
are  seen.  At  Ne^o  Westminster  Junction  (2,888  miles)  a  branch  di- 
verges 8  miles  S.  W.  to  New  Westminster  {Queen\'i  Hotel),  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Fraser  River,  about  15  miles  from  its  mouth.  New 
Westminster,  with  a  population  of  about  8,000,  is  the  oldest  city  in  the 
region,  and  was  once  the  capiial  of  the  pfoviace.     It  containB  the  Fro- 


illi 


f      "'^"J.^"^ 


it  and  re- 
1  trading- 
outfitting 
ire  to  be 
nspicuous 
een  wash- 
lavigation 
ce  of  the 
;omes  less 
ge  proper 
pe  Peaks, 
lel  to  be 
cultivated 
t  miles)  is 
35  miles), 
r  the  hot 
e,  5  miles 
»ssed,  just 
he  Fraser 
rthem  in- 
few  miles 
of  Mount 
ion  Jnnc- 
F  St.  Mary 
and  runs 
i  with  the 
n,  Wash , 
;hence  bj 
ts  in  Ore- 
miles  he- 
ld up  the 
;  now  fre. 
near  the 
rick-yards 
ranch  di- 
the  right 
h.  New 
ity  in  the 
)  the  Fro- 


DONALD  TO   VANCOUVER. 


307 


vincal  Penitentiary  and  Innane  Anylum,  the  Royal  Hospital,  a  public 
library,  and  other  similar  institutions.     The  leading  schools  of  the 
province  are  here  also.     It  is  the  centre  of  the  salmon  industry,  and  the 
several  canneries  in  the  vicinity  represent  an  invested  capital  of  over 
$500,000.     There  are  also  extensive  interests  connected  with  the  saw 
ing  and  shipping  of  lumber.     It  is  a  terminus  of  the  New  Westminster 
and  Southern  Branch  of  the  (Jrcat  Western  R.  R.   that  comes  from 
New  Whatcom,  and  it  is  connected  by  an  electric  railway  with  Van- 
couver.     Stean:boats  ply  regularly  to  Victo.  ia  and  to  other  ports  on  the 
Strait  of  Georgia  and  Puget  Sound.     Returning  to  the  main  line  our 
route  bends  to  the  right  after  leaving  Westminster  Junction,  and  with 
a   short   run   through  a  wooded  district  reaches   Port  Mood,/  (2  893 
miles),  at  the  head  of  Burrard  Inlet,  an  arm  of  the  Strait  of  Georgia 
It  was  for  some  time  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the  railway.     The  line 
continues  for  the  remainder  of  the  route  along  the  S.  shore  of  the  inlet 
At  mtervals  are  mills  with  small  villages  around  them,  while  in  the  in' 
let  are  ocean  steamships  and  sailing  craft  of  all  kinds,  loading  with 
sawed  timber  for  all  parts  of  the  world.     The  scenery  is  fine     Snow 
tipped  mountains,  beautiful  in  form  and  colour,  rise  above  the  N  side 
of  the  inlet  and  are  vividly  reflected  in  the  mirror-like  waters     Soon 
after  passing  Hastings  (2,902  miles)  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the  route  is 
reached  at  Vancouvn-  (2,906  miles  from  Montreal). 

Vancouver. 

The  principal  hotel  is  Hotel  Vancouver,  built  and  operated  by  the 
C.  P.  R.     It  is  on  high  ground  overlooking  the  harbour,  and  affords  a 
fine  view.     Leland  Home,  Manor  Hotise,  and  Hotel  Columbia  are  like- 
wise  well-appointed  hotels  with  modern  conveniences.     Vancouver  pos- 
sesses  an  ideal  situation.    It  rises  gradually  from  Coal  Harbor,  a  widen, 
ing  of  Burrard  Inlet,  and  extends  across  a  strip  of  land  to  English  Bay' 
thus  affording  it  excellent  natural  drainage,  harbour  facilities,  and  com- 
mercial advantages,  while  the  Cascade  Mountains  to  the  N.  afford  a 
pleasant  vista.     The  site  of  the  city  was  covered  with  a  dense  forest 
until  May,  1886,  when  it  was  accepted  as  the  W.  terminus  of  the 
C.  P.  R.     In  two  months  it  grew  into  a  place  of  600  inhabitants  and 
then  it  was  destroyed  by  fire.     This  disaster  proved  a  blessing  in  dis- 
guise, for  the  wooden  buildings  were  replaced  by  those  of  brick  and 
stone,  and  in  1891  the  census  returns  indicated  a  population  of  18,709 


308 


VANCOUVER. 


which  now  (1896)  probably  cxceeila  '20,000.  Adjacent  to  the  Vancou- 
ver Hotel  iH  the  C.  P.  R.  Opera  House.  Fine  churches,  notably  the 
Presbyterian  and  the  Jlpisoopal,  are  worthy  of  mention.  Tiie  City  Hall, 
the  Custom  House  and  Post-Ollice,  the  Hank  of  Montreal,  ami  the  pub- 
lie  schools  are  aiiioufi;  the  larger  civic  and  commercial  buildings.  The 
private  residences  have  handsome  lawns  and  gardens  around  them,  and 
Stanley  Park  (060  acres)  has  been  reserved  as  a  |)Ieasure  ground.  Elec- 
tric street  railways  are  running,  and  the  streets  aie  lighted  both  by 
gas  and  electricity.  Opportunities  for  sport  are  unlimited — mountain 
goats,  bear,  and  deer  in  the  hills  along  the  inlet,  trout-Hshing  in  the 
mountain  streams,  and  sea-fishing  in  endless  variety.  Besides  the 
C.  P.  R.  there  are  steamship  lines  to  Australia,  Japan,  and  ('hina,  the 
Hawaiian  and  Fijian  Islands.  Also  the  city  has  conuectioi.s  with  all 
important  points  along  the  Pacific  coast.  Tiie  mail  service  between 
Vancouver  and  Japan  and  China  employs  three  new  steel  steamships, 
called  the  Empress  of  India,  the  Empress  of  Ja[)an,  and  the  Empress  of 
China,  especially  designed  for  that  trade.  The  Canadian-Australian 
line  gives  a  monthly  service  to  Australia,  via  Honolulu,  H.  I.,  and  Suva 
Fiji.  There  is  a  fortnightly  steamer  to  Alaska  diu-ing  the  summer 
months.  Steamers  ply  between  Vancouver  and  Victoria  and  Nanaimo 
daily,  and  connection  is  made  at  Victoria  for  all  Puget  Sound  ports 
and  to  Portland  and  San  F^'ancisco. 

Vancouver  to  Victoria. 

The  route  to  Mctoria  is  by  water.  A  steamer  leaves  Vancouver 
daily  except  Monday,  shortly  after  the  arrival  of  the  transcontinental 
t.aius,  and  makes  the  trip  in  about  5  hours.  The  sail  is  usually  a 
pleasant  one,  and  is  certainly  a  picturesque  one.  Coal  Harbor  is  soon 
left  behind,  and  the  course  is  down  Burrard  Inlet.  On  the  N.  is 
Moodi/viUe,  an  Indian  mission  village  of  some  300  or  400  houses  backed 
by  the  snow-capped  hills  of  the  Cascade  Range.  Vancouver  passes 
slowly  out  of  sight,  and  we  pass  the  wreck  of  the  Heaver,  the  first 
steamer  that  reached  British  Columbia,  coming  around  Cape  Horn. 
The  Strait  of  Georgia  is  soon  reached,  and  it  forms  the  eastern  and 
northern  boundary  of  Vancouver's  Island.  Our  course  is  to  the  S.,  and 
on  the  W.  are  the  mountains  on  Vancouver's  Island,  while  to  the  E. 
is  the  white  cone  of  Mount  Baker  (10,810  ft.).  Soon  we  reach  Hare 
.Archipelago,  and  the  steamer  winds  in  and  out  the  numerous  green 


VANCOUVER  TO  VICTORIA. 


300 


islands  along  the  line  of  tlie  boundary  between  the  United  States  and 
>Canada,  Honiethnes  called  Canal  de  I  faro,  whieh  in  1H72  was  decided 
by  the  Emperor  of  (Jern.any  to  be  the  line  of  demarcation.  We  have 
been  going  .lircclly  S,  and  the  peaks  of  Olympic  Mountains  are  seen 
on  the  S.  shore  of  theso.uid,  with  Mount  Olympus  and  Mount  (\mstance 
towering  above  the  rest.  Finally,  a  turn  is  made  to  the  right  and  the 
Harbor  of  Victoria  is  entered.  On  Mondays  connection  with  Vic- 
tona  id  by  way  of  New  Westminster.  (Appx.ktons'  (Juide-Book  to 
Alahka  contains  much  information  about  British  Columbia,  and  also 
see  Part  II  of  Ai'pi.ktons'  (Jknkual  V,vwk  to  thk  Unitkd  Htatks  and 
Ca.nada.) 

Victoria  (DrHinl,  Hotel  Dallm,  Hotel  Victoria)  is  the  capital  of 
British  Columbia  and  the  residence  of  the  Lieutenant-Governor.     Tt 
IS  on  a  small  arm  of  the  sea,  commanding  a  superb  view  of  the  Strait 
of  Georgia,  the  mountains  of  the  mainland,  and  snow-capped  Mount 
Baker  in  the  distance  to  the  S.  E.     Originally  it  was  a  stockaded  post 
of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.,  and  was  then  called  Fort  Victoria.     From  the 
time  of  the  gold  excitement  in  1858  its  growth  has  been  steadv.     In 
1866  It  was  made  the  capital  of  the  province,  and  in  1893  it  became  the 
station  of  a  company  of  Royal  Mari.ie  Artillery  and  Engineers     Its 
population  in  1891  was  15,841,  and  it  is  now  (1895)  estimated  to  be 
over  25,000.     The  climate  is  that  of  the  south  of  England,  and  the 
town  IS  peculiarly  English  in  all  its  characteristics.     Besides  the  Gov- 
ernmer.c  offices,  built  in  the  Swiss  style,  the  city  has  many  fine  public 
anc!  private  buildings,  among  them  a   large  and  well-appointed  opera 
-ro  are  churches  of  all  denominations,  including  an  Anglican 
M.     >,  ..       The  mam.  facturing  interests  of  the  province  are  centred  at 
V  let.  .  .  iH  large  iron  works,  several  foundries  and  machine  shops 

and  ma  .,  ..actories.     The  city  has  an  extensixe  trade,  especially  of  furs" 
and  there  are  many  large  commercial  houses      ^  is  amply  provided 
with  educational  facilities,  both  public  and  private.    The  public  schools 
are  supported  by  the  Government,  and  controlled  by  a  school  board 
elected  by  popular  vote.     Besides  these  there  are  the  Ladies'  College 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Anglican  Church,  and  an  academic  institution' 
as  well  as  a  primary  school,  maintained  by  the  Roman  Catholic  denora^ 
mation.     There  are  Protestant  and  Roman  Catholic  orphanages      The 
city  has  a  public  library  of  over  10,000  volumes,  and  several  of  the 
fraternal  and  benevolent  societies  also  have  libraries  of  considerable 
size.     A  museum,  with  the  products  of  the  province,  is  one  of  the  sights 


310 


VANCOUVER   TO   VICTORIA. 


of  the  city.  Beacon  Hill  Park  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  waters  and 
mountains  on  every  side.  The  Chinese  quarter  ia  always  interesting 
to  visitors.  A  railway  extends  N.  E.  70  miles  to  the  coal  mines  of 
Nanaimo.  Connection  is  made  with  Paget  Sound  ports  daily,  except 
Mondays,  and  steamships  depart  about  every  five  days  for  San  Fran- 
cisco. Steamers  from  and  to  Vancouver,  for  Japan,  China,  and  Aus- 
tralia stop  at  Victoria  for  passengers,  and  fortnightl  in  summer  for 
Alaska,  visiting  the  wonderful  fiords  of  the  N.  coast.  EitquimaU  Har- 
bour, 2  miles  from  Victoria,  is  the  British  naval  station  and  rendezvous 
on  the  North  Pacific,  with  naval  storehouses,  workshops,  graving  docks, 
etc.     A  number  of  men-of-war  are  to  be  found  there  at  all  times. 


; 


APPENDIX  FOE  SPOKTSMEN. 


Tourists  who  seek  Eastern  Canada  for  the  sake  of  sport  may  look 
for  certain  general  information  which  has  not  seemed  to  find  a  place 
readily  in  the  foregoing  pages.    In  regard  to  supplies,  it  may  be  noted 
that  they  can  generally  be  obtained  in  Canadian  cities  at  a  much  lower 
price,  for  like  quality,  than  in  the  great  American  centers.     The  Ca- 
nadian dealers  have  the  advantage  of  a  lighter  tariff,  and  they  do  not 
charge  fancy  prices.     Tackle  of  all  kinds,  of  the  best  Canadian  and 
English  manufacture,  can  be  bought  in  Toronto,  Montreal,  Quebec,  St. 
John,  or  Halifax,  at  figures  which  would  be  impossible  in  New  York 
or  Boston.     The  favorite  "  all-round  "  rod  of  the  present  writer  is  a 
heavy  trout-rod  with  which  he  has  killed  some  fine  salmon.    It  is  made 
of  green-heart  and  lance-wood,  nickel-mounted,  and  with  neat  basket- 
work  grip ;  and  it  cost  but  $10.     It  was  made  by  Scribner,  of  St.  John. 
Supplies  that  are  obviously  personal  are  usually  passed  through 
the  customs  without  demur.     But  luxuries  like  tobacco,  with  eatables 
and  drinkables  generally,  are  pretty  sure  to  be  taxed ;  and  the  trav- 
eler may  save  himself  trouble  by  waiting  till  he  is  across  the  border 
before  laying  in  his  stock.     Canadian  tobacco  is  but  American  leaf 
made  up  in  Canada.     As  for  wearing  apparel,  that  is  regarded  very 
liberally,  and  one  may  take  an  ample  wardrobe  without  being  ques- 
tioned.    No  one  wants  to  smuggle  clothing  from  America  into  Canada, 
for  obvious  reasons.     Let  the  sportsman,  then,  come  generously  sup- 
plied with  warm  flannels  (unless  he  prefers  to  purchase  these  en  rmite\ 
for,  however  hot  the  days  may  be  on  Canadian  fishing-waters,  the 
nights  are  apt  to  be  chilly. 

A  word  in  regard  to  board  in  private  houses.  This  is  usually  plain, 
and  always  inexpensive.  It  is  not  often  as  high  as  $1  per  day  or  $5 
per  week.  Throughout  the  Maritime  Provinces,  at  least,  good  accom- 
modations may  be  found  almost  anywhere  at  $4  per  week.  Guides 
and  camp  help  ask  ivom  |1  to  $1.50  per  day,  according  to  locality. 
On  the  Tobique  River  an  Indian  guide  supplies  his  services  and  his 
canoe  for  $1  or  $1.25  per  day,  and  his  board.     The  variation  in  the 


ji 
I  m^i 


11  i 


312 


APPENDIX    FOR   RPORTHMKN. 


charge  Ih  dependent  on  the  season,  the  guide's  humor,  and  the  demand 
for  his  seiviceH,  On  the  Rcstigoudio  a  guide  with  canoe  charges 
$1.50  a  day,  and  finds  himself  ;  or  $1.9a)  per  day  with  board. 

To  avoid  disap|)ointinonts,  tlie  tourist  should  bear  in  mind  that  in 
the  provinces  of  Quebec  and  New  Urunswicl<  the  best  salmon  rivers, 
and  numy  of  the  best  tiout-waters,  arc  h'ascd  to  privute  persons  or 
fishing  elul)S.  Lists  of  the  leased  waters  are  issued  annually  by  the 
Provincial  (Jovernments,  and  full  information  on  the  subject  may  be 
obtained  by  application  to  the  Fisheries  (^ommissionera  of  these 
two  provinces,  at  (Quebec  and  Fredericton  n'.~,pcctively.  Armed  with 
such  information,  the  true  sportsnutn  will  find  no  diflieulty  in  getting 
the  hospitality  of  some  of  the  leased  waters  extended  to  him,  for  a 
longer  or  shorter  period.  In  Ontario  and  Nova  Scotia  the  waters  are  not 
leased,  as  a  rule,  and  the  fishing  rights  rest  primarily  in  the  hands  of 
the  riparian  owners,  who,  indeed,  M>inetimcs  lease  their  privileges.  In 
Nova  Scotia  sportsmen,  as  a  rule,  fish  wherever  thoy  find  good  waters, 
without  making  any  minute  incpnry  into  riparian  riglits.  This  freedom 
is  a  great  convenience  to  the  hasty  traveler,  who  does  not  make  up  his 
mind  till  the  last  moment  as  to  the  direction  of  his  wanderintri. 

LIST  OP  LESSEES  AND  NUMBER  OF  FISH  CAlKillT  BY  ANGLING 
IN  THE  RIVERS  OP  QUEBEC  DURIN(i  THE  YEAR  1890. 

(From  the  Report  of  the  Comtnissioner  of  Crown  Lands.) 

North  Shore. 


RIVERS. 


LESSEES. 


Godbout 'John  Alfred  Petit. 

York 

Saguenay  ( part) 


Little  Saguenay 

Trinity ' 

Murray 

Moisic 

St.  Jean  (Chicoutimi) 

A.  Mars 

Laval 

Ste.  Marguerite  (North  branch ) 
Sie.  Marguerite  (West  branch) 


Thomas  Murdoch 

J.  G.  Ayhviu  Creighton. 

N.  Pendleton  Rogers . . . . 

John  1).  Gilinour 

1).  V.  Thomson  * 

Johu  Hollida;^ 

Evan  John  Price 


Yoarly 
rent. 


WesBonncau,  etc 

A  la  Truite  (St.  Maurice) . 
Pebeloganaug , 


C.W.  Philipps ! 

Walter  M.  Brackett I 

Ste.  Marguerite  Salmon; 

Club ! 

R.  Kieonan | 

Henry  E.  Hart 

T.  V.  R.Brown I 


$25 

5.50 

25 

405 

130 

CO 

105 

180 

305 

91 

85 


No.  of 
■alinnus. 


15  oua- 

naniche 

No  Ashing 

113 


.32 
No  Ashing 


No.  of 

trout. 


620 


None 
1 


3.55  69 

15  i  No  fishing 
15 
10 


70 

690 


50 


i 


*  Transferred  to  W.  H.  Blake,  Toronto, 


No.  of 
trout. 

s 

g 
g 

""620 

None 
1 

■■■76 

090 

■■"56 

APPENDIX    FOR   WPt)KT8MEN. 
NoiiTii  f^nnnn.—iOonHniutl,) 


did 


RIVERS. 


Metabetchoiian  (ccntrnl  part) 

MaHtljfoiiche 

MetnlK'tchiiimii  (iippor  part)... 

Tt)iirilli  and  stc.  Aiinot 

Jucqiit'w-CarliiT 


8t.  Aiimiftin 

Littlo  Trinity 

Ktainuinloii '. 

Washei'oootal '. 

Jcaniiotfc 

MlHtnMHilli 

A  la  'rriiitf  (Hujriicnav) . 

Hoc  Scic  (or  Sh('I(lral<{') 

('orneillf 

Dickev 

iKlamlH  of  (iranil  DlHchanre. 
Metahetohoiian  (lower  j)art). 
(Jrand  and  Little  I'cril)()nl<a  , 

Bf)Hton>iaH 

Klvi^rodu  Loup '.', 

MistasHini  (Lake  St.  John).. 
Ir-lands  of  Lake  St.  .John. . . . 

NalaHlujnun 

DeB  Envies [ 

Shawenigan  (pt.) ." 

Ouiatchouan  (part) 


I.ESSKK.S. 


E(L  Hrewer 

Mix.  Eli/.  [Jlanehard .' .' ." 

AnioH  H.  Little* 

Tonrilli  F.  A  U.  Clul).. 
LakcH  and    If.  Janincw 
earlier  E.  *  (J.  Clul).. 

('.  S.  Campbell 

Ed.'^on  Eitcli 

<l.  (J.  A.  Creinliton 

|(ipn.  W.  Y.  \V.  Hiplev.. 
"OrleaiiH  E.  A.  (i.Cliih" 

W.  II.  Parker 

Ed.  Werner 

Henri  Siniard 

W.  W.  Watson .".■.■ 

Rev.  A  If.  Hevnar 

H.  A.  Scot  I.." 

E.  Wnrtele 

II.  >l.  lieenier 

T.  .M.  K.vder 

Co].  Einley  Andernon  . .. 

J.  P.  Mullarky 

II.  J.  Beciner.   

riia.«.  11.  Bntler 

Arthnr  I).  Kitchie 

L.  A.  Boyer 

P.  11.  Diiinais 


Yearly 
runt. 

IRH 

1!U) 

I8K 

JiO 

15 

75 

45 

55 

2U) 

I.jO 

!.'5 

5 

15 


No,  of 
•■liiioni. 


No  tlHliinK 


NollMhinj.' 


No.  of 
trout. 

081 
2,485 

717 
2,504 

1,340 


Nollfliinj; 
H 
2 

115  INollsliinn 
10  !NollKhinL' 

ao 


775 


10 
40 
25 

liJO 
20 
20 

l.W 

10 

5 

8 


•  Transferred  to  the  "  Penn  Fishing  and  Game  Club  of 
+  Transferred  to  W.  H.  Blake,  Toronto. 


No  tlsliing 


.S54 
616 
(inebec,"  Oct.  2,  1800. 


South  Shore. 


Nonvellc 

Little  Cascapedia 

RcHtigoucho  (flrnt  j)art) 

Kestigonche  (second  part) 
Uestigouche  (fourth  part). 
Ilestigouche  (fifth  part). . . , 

Little  Pabos , 

(rrand  Kiver , 

Spider  and  .Vrnold 


Bonaventnro  

Matapedia 

Grand  Pabos  (N.  S.  B.).. 

Ste.  Anne  des  Monts 

Dartmouth  

Grand  Cascapedia .'. 


Benj.  Wey 

W.  M.  KaniHHV.  

Dr.  F.  W.  raiiipliell 

"Ke«tigouche  S.  Club". 

Jaine,'*  Poljiuson 

Samuel  Davis 

Louis  Cabot 

L.  Z.  Joncas,  M.P 

The  :Me<:antic  F.  &  G. 

Club,  P.  Q 

W.  lI.Thorne 

Sir  (Jeo.  Stephen 

Henry  llogan 


Stephens  W.  White 

H.  E.,  the  Gov. -General. 


$105 
255 

2.5n 

2.S0 

101 

5 

410 

CO 

100 

l,2ryO 

2(iO 

80 

2.50 

505 

1 


'      186 

2 

30 

550 

. 

24 
No  fishing 

00 
(iOfl 

101 

00 

3 

72 

21 

The  following  list  gives  the  present  le.ssees  of  New  Brunswick 


waters : 


Restigouche  River :  From  mouth  of  Upsalquitch  to  Toad  Brook,  IT. 
B,  Hoiljns,  of  New  York ;  from  Toad  Brook  to  Tom's  Brook,  Samuel 


mmi 


314 


APPENDIX   FOR   SPORTSMEN. 


Thome,  of  New  York ;  from  Tom's  Brook  to  Tatapedia  River,  Laines 
M.  Waterbury,  of  New  York ;  from  Tatapedia  to  Tracey's  Brook,  Res- 
tigouche  Salmon  Club,  of  New  York ;  from  Tracey's  Brook  to  Qua- 
tawamkedgwick,  Archibald  Rogers,  Hyde  Park,  New  York ;  from  I.  C. 
R.  R.  Biidge  to  mouth  of  Upsalquitch,  Restigouche  Salmon  Club,  New 
York  ;  from  below  I.  C.  R.  R.  Bridge  to  Flatlands,  Micmac  Salmon  Club ; 
below  Flatlands,  held  by  local  lessees, 

Jacquet  River,  Samuel  Street,  of  Now  York. 

Upsalquitch :  From  mouth  to  Forks,  Ezra  C.  Fitch,  of  Waltham, 
Mass. ;  remainder  of  stream  and  branches,  Ezra  C.  Fitch,  of  Waltham,' 
3Iass. 

Nepisiguit :  From  mouth  to  Indian  Reserve,  C.  B.  Burnham,  St.  Louis, 
3Io.;  from  Indian  Reserve  to  Great  Falls,  C.  B.  Burnham,  St.  Louis,  Mo.; 
from  Groat  Falls  to  head  of  river,  C.  B.  Burnham,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

Miramichi :  Northwest  and  branches  above  Big  Scvogle,  R.  R.  Call 
Newcastle,  N.  B. 

Pokemouche  River  and  branches,  K.  F.  Burns,  Bathurst,  N.  B. 

Big  Tracadie  and  branches,  Edward  Jack,  Frederictoii,  N.  B. 

Renous  and  Dungarvan,  M.  Tennant,  Fredericton,  Dungarvan  Fish, 
ing  Club. 

Green  River,  The  Tobique  Salmon  Club,  W.  T.  Whitehead,  Fred- 
ericton. 

Tocologan  (Charlotte),  James  H.  Ganong,  St.  Stephen. 
Kedron  stream  and  lakes  (Charlotte),  E.  H.  Bradshaw,  Boston. 
Clear  Lake  (St.  John),  James  F.  Hamilton,  St.  John. 
South  Ocomocto  Lake,  W.  H.  Barnaby,  St.  John. 
Tobique  and  branches.  The  Tobique  Salmon  Club. 
Cain's  River  and  branches,  A.  S.  Murray,  Fredericton. 
Tabusintac  River,  Thomas  R.  Jones. 

THE  LAKE  ST.  JOHN  COUNTRY. 
The  management  of  the  Hotel  Roberval  at  Lake  St.  John  controls 
considerable  ouananiche  fishing,  which  is  open  to  guests  of  the  hotel. 
This  fishing  is  at  its  best  in  June  and  early  July,  although  there  is  a 
renewal  of  activity  in  September.  The  late  July  and  August  fishing  is 
characterized  by  more  than  the  proverbial  uncertainty  of  piscatorial 
pursuits,  but  there  is  always  trout-fishing  as  a  compensation.  The 
following  is  a  list  of  fishing-clubs  along  the  line  of  the  Quebec  and 
Lake  St.  John  Railway : 


APPENDIX   FOR   SPORTSMEN. 


315 


Little  Saguenay. 

Talbot  (open  on  payment  of  a  fee). 

Laurentidcs. 

Tardival. 

Stadacona. 

A.  L.  Light,  Large  Lake  Batiscan. 

Tourilli. 


Metabetchouan. 
Paradise  Fin  and  Feather. 
Lake  Quaquakamaksis. 
Springfield  Club. 
Riviere  Xoire. 
Lac  au  Lare. 


All  these  clubs  are  of  comparatively  recent  formation.  On  return- 
ing  from  the  Lake  St.  John  country  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  sportsman 
will  find  that  practically  all  the  salmon  and  trout  rivers  flowing  into 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  those  in  the  Quebec  peninsula  known  as  Gaspesia, 
are  held  by  lessees.  In  some  cases  arrangements  can  be  made  for  a 
few  days  of  fishing.  It  is  always  best  to  make  careful  inquiries  in  ad- 
vance, for  the  sportsman  must  abandon  the  idea  that  he  can  fish  for 
salmon  wherever  the  spirit  moves  him.  Trout-fishing,  however,  is  easily 
obtainab!-,  as  a  rule.  As  regards  hunting  and  fishing  licenses  from 
the  Government  for  strangers,  experience  seems  to  indicate  that  they 
are  rarely  insisted  upon,  at  least  in  the  case  of  the  fisherman. 

Close  Seasons. 

The  close  seasons  for  fish  and  game,  in  the  provinces  traversed  in 
this  hand-book,  are  as  follows  : 

PROVINCE  OF  ONTARIO. 

Fishing.— Salmon,  trout,  and  whitefish  between  November  1  and 
10.  Fre.'h-water  herring,  from  October  if  to  December  1.  Speckled 
trout,  brook-trout,  river-trout,  from  September  15  to  May  1.  Bass, 
April  15  to  June  15.     Pickerel,  maskinonge,  April  15  to  June  15. 

Hunting.— No  quail  shall  be  taken  or  killed  between  December  15 
and  October  15  following.  Grouse,  pheasants,  partridges  between 
January  1  and  September  1.  Woodcock,  January  1  to  August  15. 
Snipe,  rail,  golden  plover,  January  1  to  September  1.  Swans  or  geese, 
Mf.>  1  to  September  1.  Ducks  of  all  kinds,  and  all  other  fowl,  Janu- 
ary 1  to  September  1.  Hares,  March  15  to  September  1.  Beaver, 
muskrat,  mink,  sable,  martin,  otter,  or  fisher.  May  1  to  November  ]. 
Deer,  November  20  to  October  15.     Moose  and  caribou  protected  en- 


tirely until  October  15,  ]89t^.     Quail 


can  not  be  shot  fur  exportation 


or  sale,  and  partridge  for  exportation  until  October,  1892 


:\U] 


i\rrKNI)lX    VOll    HI'omXMKN. 


No  poison  wlu)  1ms  not  been  a  resident,  of  this  province  or  Qnobpc 
for  three  months  next  before  (Mober  15,  ean  lull  deer,  except  ho 
hold  a  permit  from  the  Commissioner  of  Crown  Lands,  which  may  be 
obtained  for  *10.  No  person  shall  Ivill  more  than  5  deer;  no  two, 
hnntins  tof^ether,  more  than  S;  and  no  party  of  three  or  more,  more 
than  12. 

rHOVINCK  OK  (^UKREC. 
FisiiiNo.— Salmon  (annlinp;),  from  AMf,Mist  i;i  to  February  1  ;  the 
same  (Hesti^ionchc  Uiver),  Ani,nist  15  to  May  1.  Sp.'cklcd  tront  (Sal. 
)iio  foiitiiiafisX  brook  or  river  tront,  from  October  I  to  .Famiary  1. 
Onananiche,*  from  September  15  to  December  1.  Lar>!;e  {^ray  trout  and 
lnn.c;e  from  Oi-tober  15  to  I)ec(Mnb(>r  1.  i'iekerel  (.loro),  from  April  16 
to  May  15.  Hass  and  maskinon;,^',  from  April  15  to  June  15.  White- 
iish,  from  November  1(»  to  December  1. 

N.  H.— An-ilin-:;  by  hand  (with  hook  and  line)  is  the  oidy  means 
permitted  to  be  used  for  takin;j;  lisli.  (No  person  who  is  not  domiciled 
in  the  province  of  Quebec  can  at  any  time  fish  in  the  lakes  or  rivers 
of  this  province,  not  actually  under  lcas(>,  without  havinfj;  previously 
obtained  a  permit  to  that  effect  from  the  Connnissioner  of  Crown  Lands. 
Such  permit  is  valuable  for  a  fishin--;  season,  and  is  not  transferable.) 

Hun riNc:.— Caribou,  from  February  1  to  September  1.  Deer,  from 
.lanuary  1  to  October  1. 

N.  H.— The  huntinjj;  of  moose,  caribou,  or  deer,  with  dogs  or  by 
means  of  snares,  traps,  etc.,  is  prohibited.  No  jierson  (white  man  or 
Indian)  has  a  ri-iht,  durinp;  one  .reason's  hunlinf,',  to  kill  or  take  alive 
—unless  he  has  previously  obtained  a  pennit  from  the  Connnissioner 
of  Crown  Lands  for  that  purpose — more  than  3  caribou  and  1  deer. 
After  the  first  ten  days  of  the  close  season,  all  railroads  and  steam- 
boat companies  and  pubi;  >  carriers  are  forbidden  to  carry  the  whole  or 
any  part  (except  the  skin)  of  any  moose,  caribou,  or  deer  without 
being  authorized  thereto  by  the  Connnission(>r  of  Crown  Lands. 

Heaver,  mink,  ottei',  martin,  pckan,  from  A])ril  1  to  November  1. 
Uare,  from  February  1  to  Novend)er  1.  Muskrat  (only  in  the  counties 
of  Maskinonge,  Yamaska,  Richelieu,  and  Herthier),  from  May  1  to  April 


*  The  original  Fiidian  name  of  tliis  remarkable  fish  is  ouananiehe. 
The  common  pronunciation  of  the  word  is  "  wininish,"  and  this  spell- 
ing is  often  adopted.  The  word  sometimes  apjjears  as  "  winninish  " 
aud  ''  wananish," 


APJ'KNDfX    J.'()1J   HPORTOMKN. 


.117 


ollow.n,^'.     VVo,„lc,K.|<,  .snip,.,  par.ri.lj.,,  „f  „„y  |,i,„,,  f,,„„  k,,,,,,,,, 
to  S.,>U.,Ml...,.   ,       lUarU  .luck,  t.ul,  wild  dnok  „f  any  ki,.,!  (.x.-opt 
u,Mn.kc.  and  .-ndl),  In,,,,  May  I  to  S.-pi,..,.!.,.,-  1.     (A„d  ,tt  any  tin.o  of 
the  year,  botwc.n  on,.  |,o,n-  alt,.,'  suns,.)  an.l  o,„.  ho,„.  b.-Jon.  sunris,. 
and  also  to  kcx-p  ...xposcl  ,l„nn-  s„d.  p,„l,il,i„.d  |„„„.s,  l,„,.s  or  .hrovs' 
etc.;   «unH  of  la,^...  I.o.v  ,|,an   No.  8  pn,l.il,i,c.|.)     Hinls  known  aJ 
IK>rcl,o,-H,  s,u.l,    an    swallows,   kin^.i.inls,  wa,blc,.H.  fly-calchc-H,  wocl- 
IHH-kcrs,  wl.,p.poo,.wills,  fi,„.|„.s  (so,„.spa,n.ws,  ....ihinls,  indigo  hinls 
0  c),<.,,w-.„n,n,.s,  ,i,,„i,,,    f,„ld(i„..l„.s,;,Miv,.s  (.ohius,  wood.U„ush,.s' 
etc ),  k.n^dets,  lmlM,Ii,d<s,  ^nakl,.s,  f,M„ssl.,.aks,  I„„„„m,..|,i,,js   ,.„..k..os' 
owls  etc.,  except  ,.a^d,^.,  falcons,  hawks,  a„,l   oth,.,.  hinls  of'th.   Fa/' 
connl^r,  wil,l  pi^,.o„H,  kin;.|isl„.,s,  c,«ws,  nivcns,  wax-win^^H  (rMUs) 
shnk,.s,  jays,  „,a;,n,i<.s,  Mpa,.n,ws,  an.l  sta.linfrs,  fn,„.   Ma.ch  1    to  S.-n- 
teinhc,-  I.     To  t.ke  ncs.s  o,-  cgj^^s  of  wild  ,h.ck,  teal,  wil.l  goose,  ,>r  swan 
iH  prohd)it('d. 

N.  H.-Fine  of  $2  to  .$l(,n,  o,-  inip.isonn.ent  in  ,lef,i,ilt  of  payna-nt 
No  pc..son  who  is  not  do,nic-il.:.l  in  the  pn.vinc,.  of  (^nchcc,  nor  in  thai 
of  Ontano,  can  at  any  tin.o  h.u.t  in  this  p.ovince  without  havin-^  pr-c- 
viously  obtain,.,!  a  li,.,.nse  to  that  ellV.-t  fn„..  the  (Jo.unussio.'ier  of 
Crown  Lan,ls.  Such  p,.,n.it  is  nut  t.ansfen.bl,-.  Tl„;  export  of  deer 
wdd  tu,-keys,  quail,  an,l  pa,-tri,lf.c  in  caicasses  or  parts  then.of  f,on.  the 
Dominion  at  any  time  is  i,n,hibited.     Penalty,  $loo  and  forfeiture. 

PROVINCE  OF  NEW  BIUJNSWK'K. 
S„ooT.N«.-It  is  unlawful  to  hunt,  take,  kill,  or  wound  any  moo.se 
deer,  or  red  dee.-,  chning  three  years  after  Ap.il  0,  1888,  under  a  pen' 
alty  ,,ot  c.xcee.linf5  #200,  nor  less  than  *!.)().     Heaver,  otter,  mink,  .sable, 
and  hsher  May  1  to  S,.pten,ber  1.     Grouse  or  partridge,  December  1 
to  Septen.bcr  20.     Woodcock,  December  1    to  Scpteml,er  1.     Snipe 
March  1  to  Hepten.be..  1.^..     Hhick  ,luck,  woo.l  .h.ck,  and  teal.  May  I  to 
September  1.     Other  ducks,  b.ant,  geese,  a..d  other  wate.-fowl  shall 
not  be  hunted  with  a,-tificial  light,  ,ior  with  swivel  nor  punt  .^uns  or 
t.-apped  or  netted  at  any  tin.e.     Sea-gulls  are  pn.tected  in  tl.J'  pa.'ish 
of  (..•and  Manan  at  all  seasons;  song-birds  and  in.sectivo,-ou8  birds  en- 
tirely p.otectcd.     No  pe.-.son  not  having  his  don.icile  in  the  province 
of  New  n.-unswick  shall  be  entitled  to  hunt  ,n- kill  anv  ga.ne  bi.d  or 
animal,  or  fur.boa.'ing  a.iin.al,  in  tin-  province  without  a  license,  which 
n.ay  be  obtained  fn,.n  the  Provinual  Sccretarv.  F.-e,Jericton    \    I]    or 
iro.n  J.  De  Wolfe  tipurr,  Bsq.,  Chief  Game  Con.missioner,  St.  John 


318 


APPIONDTX   FOR   WPoKTSMEN. 


N.  H.,  by  payment  of  a  foe  of  $'iO — licciiPo  to  he  in  fori-o  for  one  year 
from  tlio  1st  (luy  of  SeptiMubor  in  ciidi  year,  Ollleei'S  of  her  Miijcsty'a 
801'vico  can  obtain  a  license  foi  15. 

NKW  IHUTNHWTCK  AND  NOVA  S(;OTlA. 

f^KSHiNG — Salmon  (n('t-fishin<>),  Aufi;tist  16  to  March  1.  Salmon 
(an<i;linf;),  September  Ifj  to  Kcbniary  1.  Sabnon  (Keslif^onche  Itiver), 
An<?ust  15  to  May  1.  Speelded  trout,  October  1  to  Ai)ril  1.  Large 
gray  trout,  lunge,  ouananlche,  and  landlocki'd  sahuon,  October  1  to 
April  1.  Sea-bass,  March  I  to  October  1.  Smehs,  April  1  to  July  1. 
Lobsters,  July  1  to  December  81.  Sturgeon,  August  31  to  May  1. 
Oysters,  June  1  to  September  15.  The  use  of  explosives  or  poisonous 
substances  for  liilling  fish  is  illegal. 

From  the  time  of  low  water  nearest  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of 
every  Saturday  to  the  time  of  low  water  nearest  six  o'clock  in  the  fore- 
noon of  every  Monilay,  no  one  shall  fish  for,  catch,  or  kill  salmon  in 
tidal  waters. 

In  non-tidal  waters  frequented  by  salmon  no  one  shall  fish  for, 
catch,  or  kill  ."^almon  or  any  other  fish  between  nine  o'clock  in  the  even- 
ing of  every  Saturday  and  six  o'clock  on  the  following  Monday  morning. 


THE  NET  RESULT 


The  Intercolonial  Railway  of  Canada. 

Wlmt  CirAHLKH   DlJDLKY   WaiiNKR  sill'     ..l,-.Mf*l       ^- 

Uko.  i„  C.  Breton  .,„„,  .hr,XZ;,;;:r,LiX       ""'      '"  "'"' 

icngii,,  „i„,ii„K  „,„„,„i  (,,„  ■,„„„  ijzzxi  So  r;  I'"  •  ""''•'" 

IMint,  «c  came  upon  a  Bi.'ht  llml  i„,  I  „n  .1  *"    '"'  """""li  it" 

wa«  tile  famous  IllaH  d'or  "'"  "''"'''  ""'  "'  <"■     Tins 

could  1,0.  If  ,l,„  rlX  .i  "ke  tl  ,,  T"'"  ,"  '""'^  "'  """  *»"■■• 
e«.u„,.ie»,  .1,0  ,;,.eat  and  illf  «,t ','  'S,:  '^  J  |"' 7";"":'°" 
Breton  on  I  he  lairL'od  noitlieimf  ,.n,.«f  ,>j   '     A  ^  '"""  *^^  ^'"P« 

flow  in,  ut  Icw-^'th'tlde  ^g      "  u  ;«  ;.m^^  '^•"J 

The  water  seeks  ont  all  tt  low  Ic'^,^^  "'  ""'  '"''^"'^• 

ning  awuv  into  lovely  I.  h  T,  d  toor^s  I  '  '"/'''i  ""'''''"'•'  «•"»■ 
land  Hnd-,,ielures,,uei  lands    LhS^^^  '""«"««  "^ 

land,  to  thi  reuu>te^..unS;  Sr  s  J:  S  i;:;:;^  M  '■'«'"""  •;'  *^'^" 
and  the  fi.sh  and  the  n.olluHk.s  of  L  -in  v  He^  t  .'  '  ■'!','''''  ^^  "'^">^' 
ress  of  a  fresh-water  lake  with  aM  1  Lv  Ital  of  a'  u  P'""'"!*" 
the  strean.H  wl.ieh  run  into  it  are  the  speckk  m,,t  1.  f\  ""''•.  f" 
Balmon  ;  out  of  its  depth,  are  hooked  the    odnnH  1"'^'  .''"''  *''"' 

its  bays  fattens  the  oy.ter.    S  ite  1"    ,X    •  '  "/'-^^ 
miles  long,  if  you  measure  it  sk  llf  lit^         -^  '"  ''''"'"  "^  '"'ndred 
broad  ,  but  so'  a,  en  e         it  th     i      ^'  "'!''  '"  'T'  ^''^^''''^  *«"  '""es 
as  we  were  in  o  med  to  ri.  e  a      n .«      /"'*,"''"  '^"'  «"^'  "'^"''^  "e«d, 
ingall  itsincursiZlAt^thelld^^^  "'"^'^  *"  ^o  round  it,  follow-' 

"  What  wo  first  saw  was  an  inlet  of  tfw.  n,.,^    vf         n   ,  . 
driver  Hogamah  Bay     At  its  enf  .nm./„  ^^  "'  '"''"^^  ^y  the 

beyond  which  ^o  .aTtl/oh:X,o^^^^^^^^^^^^  -lands, 

some  poetic  seacoast.  The  bay  nanowrtl  /i  '"'^"'./'K^'  ^^e  capes  of 
we  eame  upon  it,  and  ran  everal  m  les  in  un?l  V'  '"  ^'^^'^  ""^^'^ 
head  of  which  we  must  -o  Ormosnn  l^«  fj  -n'^  '"'TP'  ''«""''  ^^e 
had  my  suspicions  from  the  beSi  '  rC.  th'""""  "^  ""^«'"'^»'-  ^ 
the  driver-who  was  libe  allvVrnolf  ff  this  name,  and  now  asked 
'  Hogamah  ' :  Wh^-ko  kSgl./'  ''''^''  '''  '  dr.vcr-how  he  spelled 
What  the  distinguished  writer  said  of  the  mairnifi..onf  tj,  t 

m„.e  JaSwh  h't  ;„t™™i:;  "itvr/'  'r'"«  ■'"  •■™''  -  - 

them  iB  known  as  the  lat^at  hodv^  r  f     i,       /""  '"  '''™'  ""'«  °"«  "f 

lakes  of  Switzerland,    Need  we  sav  fh.t  tl,  a    .'  1"  I"'™  »'  ">« 

St,  Uwreneef-the  nobtet,  the  pnre«,  ""^Tn"^-,", . 'l"'"  "  "f 
GkKl'S 'beautiful  earth.'"  ^-^' —  ^  encnaiitin-nver  on  all 


The  Queen's  Hotel. 

The  leading  hotel  of  Toronto  is  the  Queen's.  This  old-established 
house  is  one  ot  the  best  appointed  and  most  carefully  conducted  estab- 
lishments in  tht  Dominion.  It  is  located  on  Front  Street,  where  its 
windows  connnand  a  line  view  of  Toronto  Kay  and  Lake  Ontario.  In 
the  rear  there  is  a  spacious  lawn  with  flowers,  shadf-trees,  and  fountains. 
The  hotel  contains  200  rooms.  The  space  devoted  to  public  rooms  is 
ample,  and  the  upper  floors  are  admirably  planned,  the  rooms  being 
huge,  light,  and  arranged  in  suites  to  suit  all  requirements.  In  every 
room  of  the  hotel  there  is  an  open  flreplace,  insuring  perfect  ventila- 
tion. The  furnishinent  is  of  the  most  substt.  ■'.  •  '  "pj,  ail  me  standing 
furniture  being  of  solid  walnut  and  mahogan^,  y  room  has  uphol- 

stered furniture,  and  the  carpets,  draperies,  L  v  ;urtains,  etc.,  which 
go  to  make  the  rooms  attractive  and  homehke,  are  of  superior  quality. 
The  public  rooms,  including  the  office,  smoking-roums,  parlors,  reception- 
rooms,  and  dining-rooms,  are  attractively  appointed  and  well  ordered. 


Niagara  River  Line. 

A  trip  to  Niagara  Falls  is  not  complete  without  seeing  the  Niagara 
River  and  its  beauties.  The  noted  steel  steamers  of  the  Niagara  River 
Line  have  been  specially  constructed  of  the  highest  class  of  British 
design  and  workmanship,  and  are  the  fastest  steamers  on  the  lakes, 
with°cabin  equipments  designed  here  and  adapted  to  the  modern  ideas 
of  this  continent. 

From  Toronto,  the  steamers  cross  Lake  Ontario,  a  distance  of 
thirty-six  miles,  and  enter  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River.  The 
points  on  the  entrance  are  occupied  on  the  United  States  shore  by 
Fort  Niagara,  held  during  the  past  three  hundred  years  in  turn  by 
French,  British,  and  United  States  garrisons  ;  on  the  Canadian,  by  Fort 
Missamuga  and  Fort  GVor^e,  taken  and  retaken  in  the  War  of  1812-'14. 

Niagara-on-the-Lake  is  a  favorite  summer  lakeside  resort  with  sum- 
mer hotels,  and  now,  with  its  many  summer  residences,  become  a 
suburb  of  Toronto.  Niagara  Falls  station  of  Mie  Michigan  Cential 
Railway  is  in  the  Canadian  National  Park.  All  trains  stop  Kve  minutes 
at  Falls  View,  where,  from  a  spacious  platform  just  above  the  Horse- 
shoe Cataract,  a  most  magniticent  view  of  the  Falls  is  obtained. 

After  making  the  first  landing  at  Niagara-on-the-Lake,  the  steamers 
then  continue  for  seven  miles  farther  along  the  river.  The  Queenston 
Heights  tower  high  above  the  surrounding  table-land.  On  the  summit 
stands  out  the  grand  column  of  Brock's  Monument,  erected  to  the 
memory  of  the  victorious  general  who  fell  at  the  battle  fought  here  in 
1812.  These  cliffs  form  the  place  where  the  Falls  once  were.  Through 
this  "  Gorge  "  the  confined  waters  now  struggle. 

Lewiston  is  the  point  of  connection  for  the  American  side  of  the 
river,  and  change  is  made  to  the  trains  at  the  foot  of  the  Rapids, 

The  New  Yoi-k  Central  Railroad  has  extended  its  tracks,  and  the 
trains  pass  along  a  ledge  cut  in  the  side  of  the  cliff,  following  the  wind- 
ings of  the  river,  and  giving  unexampled  views  of  the  whole  length  of  the 
rapids  aud  the  weird  and  "oaderful  scerxcry  iu  the  caiion  of  the  Niagara, 


CARDS  OF   LEADING  HOTELS. 

By  referring  to  the  advertising  pages  the  traveler  will  find  full  information 
of  many  of  the  leading  Hotels,  as  also  Bankers,  Railroads,  Stean.boats,  etc. 


BOYDEN,   VA. 


BUFFALO  LITHIA  SPRINGS  HOTEL 
AND     COTTAGES.     Thomas     w 
GooDK.    First  claBB  in  all  ite  appSment^' 
and  in  a  region  famous  for  its  iiealtiiful- 
ness.    Open  from  June  let  to  October  Ist 


H" 


BUFFALO,  N.  Y. 

[OTEL  IROQUOIS, 
r^^..^  1  *^ooLLEY  &  Gerrans,  Proprietors. 
The  leadmK  hotel  in  Buffalo,  fhe  only 
absolutejr  flre-proof  house  in  the  city  • 
metropolitan  m  its  structure,  arraneements' 
equipments,  ana  management.  American 
and  European  plans.    Most  central  location! 


CATSKILL  MOUNTAINS. 

(n^m??L^^^  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE. 

of  thPT^fSi,^''""*'*'."^'  e'Fht  miles  west 
?hi  .1.  ""^"P^'^*^''  ""*^  twelve  miles  from 
the  vil  age  of  Catskill,  N.  Y.  It  has  accom- 
™«fations  for  400  guests,  and  is  the  largest 
and  leadmg  hotef  of  the  CatslciU  region. 
Open  June  SOth  to  September  -.JOth.    great 

stftS'lnir^'^'^'A  .^T  Otis  elevator  from 
station  to  House,  bringing  the  House  within 

SlJr  ^^  ^'"■''-    ^^°^  ^Of  "'f- 

C.  L.  Beach,  Proprietor,  Catsliill,  N.  Y. 


CANADA. 

CLIFTON  HOUSE, 
P«rt  ^J^^^^,^  ^^^^^-  directly  fronting  the 
wt  ^servations  Sanitary  condition  per- 
nor ;i  ^^^  ^P'"*^  ^™'"  the  Falls  lieeps  the 
ri^M 'Y*y/  J'"?''^-  Th'«  Ho»«e,  situated  di- 
Sinta  es"""  ^*"'  ^^^^^^''^  s"P<'"or 

G.  M.  CoLBURN,  Proprietor,  Niagara  Falls. 

AVENUE  HOUSE, 
tr«i  ^JI:^  *^*=^'"  College  Avenue.    Cen- 
tral location  ;    ronvenient  for  business   or 

per  day.  ;f   E,  S.  Reynolds,  Proprietor. 


CANADA. 

OT.  LAWRENCE  HALL, 

t£,     Montreal,    For  upward  of  thirty-flve 

years  the  name  of  the  St.   Lawrence  Hall 

contiS  '"Th '"{;  V','^1'  travelers"on  ?hii 
continent.     The  hotel  is  conveniently  sit- 

of*M,n?  *'',*'  •»"J"".*  "^  the  business  center 
erafcrniir''  '^  contiguous  to  the  Gen 
era  Post-Oftlce  and  other  important  public 

iSt   afd  mW   IJf^'*^'^   ^y  the   eCSc 
light,  and  fitted  with  a  passenger  elevator 
Ihe  hotel  IS  under  the  personaf  supervision 
of  the  proprietor,  Mr.  Henry  Hoolii. 

THE  QUEEN'S, 
.r.r.  f'^?^^^'^'!-  Celebrated  for  its  home 
and  r^n.?!;i-''*  *i'"ft'  good  attendSn™! 
?»  u  u.H.  P?cul  ar  excellence  of  its  aiieine 
Delightfuliy  sUuated  near  the  bay  on  pS 
Street,  convenient  to  business  center  rail- 
road depot,  steamboats,  etc.  ' 

McGaw  &  Winnett,  Proprietors. 


EUREKA  SPEINGS,  ARK. 

rpHE  CRESCENT  HOTEL. 
-L.    It  is  in  the  midst  of  the  numerous 
«pnngs,  and  is  conducted  for  comfort  Sf 


LENOX,  MASS. 
/CURTIS  HOTEL. 

fhP^mi^*'i^  magnificently  located  house.  In 
nil  tlTJ'^''^  ""^  the  Berkshire  Hills  is  open 
a^l  the  year  round,  All  modem  improve- 
ments and  conveniences. 

W.  D.  Curtis,  Proprietor. 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 

THE  KEaRSARGE, 
North  Conway,  N.  H.    The  hotel  is 

iSSr  ^  ^\^^'  ^'*^^''*t'""  "verlookffihe 
i}}Z^\l^l^''^.S^^}\>^^<iirig  one   ol^  the 

AU  fL      ^^'^  "^  ^^^  ^^hite  Mountain  range. 
All  improvements.    ( >pen  June  to  October. 

L.  J.  RicKBR,  Proprietor. 


Ill 


CABD8  OF  LEADING  HOTELS.-(Contlnned.) 


m 


iii 


LEBANON,  MO. 

HOTEL  GASCONADE. 
Flrst-claHs   house,  with   all   modem 
improvenients  and  conveniences. 


NEWFOBT  NEWS,  VA. 

HOTEL  WARWICK, 
On  Hampton  Uoade,  eight  miles 
above  Old  Point  Comfort  and  twelve  miles 
Irom  Norfolk.  A  new  brick  buildina,  com- 
manding extensive  marine,  river,  and  in- 
land views;  elegant  and  complete  in  its 
appointment ;  elevaton*.  steam  heat,  open 
fireplaces,  artesian  well,  tliorouah  drain- 
age ;  natural  park  and  pleasure-ground  ; 
pier  300  feet  long,  with  handsome  pavilion; 
separate  music  and  ball-room  on  the  bluff; 
billiardaaiid  bowling-alley  ;  a  sloping  beach 
miles  in  length ;  iniereBiing  drives.  Open 
all  the  year. 

J.  R.  SwiNEBTON,  Manager. 


NEW  YOBK. 

FIFTH  AVENUE  HOTEL, 
Madison  Square.    The  largest,  best 
appointed,   and    most   liberally    managed 
hotel  in  the  city,  with  the  most  central  and 
delightful  location. 

Hitchcock,  Dablinq  &  Co. 

GRAND  UNION  HOTEL. 
Passengers  arriving  in  the  City  of 
New  York  via  Grand  Central  Depot  save 
cuiriage-hire  and  transfer  of  baggage  by 
stopping  at  the  Grand  Uniov  Hotel, 
opposite  the  depot.  Passengers  arriving 
by  West  Shore  Railroad  via  Weehawken 
Ferry,  by  taking  the  42d  Street  horse-cars 
at  ferry  entrance  reach  Grand  Union 
Hotel  in  ten  minutes.  tiOO  rooms,  11  and 
upward  per  day.  European  plan.  Guests' 
baggagj  delivered  to  and  Irom  Grand  Cen- 
tralJDepot  free. 

Ford  &  Co.,  Proprietors. 

HOLLAND  HOUSE, 
Fifth  Avenue  and  Thirtieth  Street. 
Positively  flre-i)roof.     European  plan,    $2 
per  day  and  upward. 
H.  M*.  Kinsley  &  Baumann,  Proprietors. 

PARK  AVENUE  HOTEL. 
Absolutely  fire-proof.  European 
plan,  $1  per  day  and  upward  ;  American 
plan,  $3.50  per  day  and  upward.  Park 
Avenue,  32d  and  33d  Streets.  W' m.  H.  Eable 
A  Sov,  Proprietors,  New  York.    Free  bag- 

fage  to  and  from  Grand  Central  and  Long 
sland  Depots,     ^ 


ST.  DENIS  HOTEL, 
Broadway  and  Eleventh  Street,  New 
York,  The  new  addition,  with  its  beauti- 
ful Colonial  Dining-Room,  has  made  this 
well-known  house  more  popular  than  ever, 
and  in  appointments,  decorations,  and  mod- 
ern equipments  it  is  now,  pai'  excellence,  one 
of  the  leading  hotels  of  the  metropolis, 

William  Taylob. 

THE  KENSINGTON  HOTEL, 
Fifth  Avenue  and  Fifteenth   Street, 
European  plan.    First  class, 

S,  J.  O'SuLLivAN,  Proprietor. 


NIAGARA  FALLS,  N.  Y. 

THE  CATARA(;T  HOUSE. 
One  of  the  Injst  known  hotels  at  Niag- 
ara. Improvement  in  its  appointment  of 
cuisine  and  service.  Under  new  and  pro- 
gressive management.  Adjoining  State 
Reservation,  and  directly  opposite  Goat 
Ifeland.    For  terms,  address 

J.  E.  Devbbbux,  Manager. 

HOTEL  KALTENBACH, 
Fronting  State  Park  and  Rapids. 
American  pian.    Open  the  year  round. 

A.  Kaltenbach,  Proprietor. 


PITTSFIELD,  MASS. 

rpHE  MAPLEWOOD. 
±     One  of  the  largest  hotels  In  the  Berk- 
shire Hills. 
Open  June  to  November. 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  N.  Y. 

r^  RAND  UNION  HOTEL, 
vjr  W^oolley  &  GsRRANS,  Proprietors,  Is 
the  most  magnificent  summer  hotel  in  the 
world.  It  is  in  the  finest  location,  and  ad- 
jacent to  the  most  famous  springs.  Splen- 
did orchestra.  Fourth  season  under  pres- 
ent management. 


WASHINGTON,  D.  0. 

RIGGS  HOUSE, 
Washington,  D.  C.    Reopened  under 
new  management ;  refurnished  and  redeco- 
rated in  first-class  style  ;  table  the  best  in 
the  city,     Riuas  House  Co..  Proprietors, 
G.  DeWitt,  Treasurer, 


WEST  POINT,  N.  Y. 

TTTEST  POINT  HOTEL. 
VV      The  only  hotel  on  the  post,    -i 

Albert  H,  Cbanbt. 


1  street,  New 
ith  ite  beauti- 
as  made  this 
lar  than  ever, 
ans,  and  mod- 
fXceUence,  one 
itropolis. 


itropi 

M  Ti 


AYLOB. 


PEL, 

eenth   Street. 

Proprietor. 


K.  Y. 

lOtelB  at  Niag- 
pointment  of 
new  and  pro- 
loining  State 
pposite  Goat 

s,  Manager. 

and  Rapids. 
ar  round. 
Proprietor. 

B  in  the  Berk- 


5,  N.  Y. 

Proprietors,  is 
r  hotel  in  the 
ation,  and  ad- 
rings.  Splen- 
a  under  pres- 


D.  0. 

;opened  under 
;d  and  redeco- 
>ie  the  best  in 
Proprietors, 
TT,  Treasiirer. 


r.  Y. 


post,  --i 
H.  Cbanbt. 


THE 


ITERCOLOML 


OF  CnNflDfl. 


THE  3HORT  LINE 

BETWEEN 

QUEBEC,  HALIFAX,  ST.  JOHN,  and  SYDNEY,  C.  B 

AND   CONNECTING   AT  '* 

POINT  DU  CHENE,  N.  B.,  and  PICTOU    N  S 
FOR  P-  E.  ISLAND,  "The  Garden  of  the  Quif  " 


The  Popaiar  Roiife  for  Sliuimtr  Travel 

Pure  *ir,  Splendid  SeaBathing,  and  a  Perfect  Panorama  of  Delightful  Views 
A  PERFECT  TRAIN  SERVICE. 

Cabeful  and  Poutk  Attendants 

SAFETY.  SPEED.  AND  COMFORT. 

FAST  TIME  AND  LOW  FARES 
lU  high  standard  of  exceUence  has  been  established  by  years  of  careful  conHd^ration  of 

the  requirements  of  the  people.  <!onna«ratton  of 


R 


OUND        ^  Tourist  Tickets, 

TRIP    *  Sk**^^^*"  Excursion,  and 
JJUlI        VJea-Bathing  Tickets, 


Mat.  1895.  MONCTON,  N.  B.,  CANADA. 


DEBEC  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY. 

MONTREAL,    aXJEBEO,   NEW  BBUNSWIOK,   FRINGE 
EDWARD  ISLAND,    AND   NOVA   SCOTIA. 

A  Htcamer  of  thin  .ine  leaven  Montreal  and  Plctou,  Nova  Scotia,  alternately  every  Monday, 
callhif,'  at  (iut'lHJc,  hurther  Point,  Uasp^,  l*erc6,  Hummer-Hide,  and  Charlottetown,  Prince 
Edward  iHland.  Kxcuraion  tickete  and  conneetionH  to  all  parts  of  Canada,  the  United 
States,  and  Newfoundland. 

Ttie  route  offens  special  attractionB  to  tourists  during  the  summer  months. 


BERMUDA  ROYAL  MAIL  LINE. 

The  magniflcent  new  powerful  passenger  steanicrs  Trinidad  or  Orinoco,  now  on  this  route, 
leave  New  York  and  Bermuda  alternately  every  Tliursday,  from  January  to  June. 


St.  Thomas,  St.  Crobc,  St.  Kite's,  Antiffua,  Guadeloupe,  Dominica, 
Martinique,  St.  Lucia,  and  Barbadoes. 

The  magnificent  new  powerful  passenger  steamer  Madiana  (3.0.''.0  tons),  with  the  Carib- 
bee,  Bermuda,  and  Muriel,  form  a  line  to  these  islands,  leaving  New  York  every  ten  days. 


Tickets  for  Bale  at  all  the  principal  Ticket  OfHces  in  the  United  States  and  Canada,  and  at 
Thomas  Cook  &  Son's  Ticket  Offices,  261  Broadway,  New  York,  and  agencies  of  R.  M. 
Stocking 

A.  E.  OUTERBRIDGE  &  CO.,  Agents,  39  Broadway,  New  Vork. 

ARTHUR  AHERN,  Secretary,  Quebec,  Canada. 

Northern 
Steamship 
Company's 

Exclusively  Passenger  Steamships 

NORTH  WEST  and  NORTH   LAND, 

Unequaled,  except  in  size,  by  anything  afloat. 
EXCURSION    TRIPS   OUT   OF    THE    BEATEN    PATH. 

In  connection  with  the  GREAT   NORTHERN   RAILWAY,  the  delight- 
ful and  dustless  route  across  the  Continent.     Summer  Travel  made  Com' 
fortable.     For  time-tables,  rates,  and  full  information,  address 

L.  W.  liAKE,  Gen'l  Agt.,  375  Broadway,  New  Tork 

G*       TlTTrflT  TITO      rf^m^n     A,^*.        Oil     flTn  »Kt^.~A^~    OA        "O^*^^. 

E.  D.  SPENCER,  Geii*l  Agt.,  48  South  Third  St.,  Ph 

Or  of  A.  A.  HEARD,  Gen'l  Pass.  Agt,  Buffalo, 


PANY.  I    The  Eicheiieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Co. 


PRINCE 
A. 

y  every  Monday, 
ottetown,  Prince 
ada,  the  United 


ow  on  this  route, 
June. 


Dominica, 

with  the  Carlb- 
very  ten  days. 

1  Canada,  and  at 
jencies  of  R.  M. 

New  Vork. 


ny's 

PS 

LAND, 

»at. 
PATH. 

i,  the  delight- 
made  Com- 


GENERAL  OFFICES: 

228  St.  Paul  Street, 

MONTREAL. 


Cobourir,  Kingston,  Clayton,  Alexandria  Bay,  and  otluT  intermedials  ports,  arriving 


ROYAL  MAIL  LINE 

Botween  Toronto,  Kingston, 
Montreal  and  intermediate  ports, 
composed  of  the  following  ttrst-class 
iion  steamers:  "Hpartan,"  "Corsl- 
ciin,"  "Passport,"'  and  "Algerian  " 
Leaving  Toronto  daily  (Sund-^ys 
excepted)  at  2  o'cloclc  p.  M.,  call  iig 
at  BowmanTille,  Port  Hope, 


at  Montreal  at  ti.IW  p.  m.,  connecting  with  hleiiiners  lor  Quebec  and  the  Sa^r-ienay. 

All  these  steamers  pass  through  the  enchanting  scenery  of  the  .Lalie  ot  the  Ihousand 


pass 
Islands  and  the  exciting  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 


THE   MONTREAL    AND    QUEBEC   LINE, 

Composed  of  the  magnificent  large  iron  steamers  "Quebec"  and  "Montreal."  Will  leave 
Montreal  daily  (Sundays  excepted)  at  7  o'cloclc  p.  m.,  calling  "t  intemediate  points,  and 
arriving  at  Quebec  at  6.30  the  following  morning,  connecting  with  the  steamp'.s  for  the 
Saguonay  and  the  intercolonial  Railway  for  places  in  the  Maritime  Provinces. 

SUNDAY  SERVICE.— Commencing  June  2d,  steamers  will  leave  Montreal  and 
Quebec  at  3  o'clock  p.  m.  every  Sunday,  until  September  1st. 

THE   SAQUENAY    LINE, 

Composed  of  the  beautiful  iron  steamer  "Carolina,"  the  splendid  steel  steamer  "Canada," 
and  the  fine  steamer  "  Saguenay."  Leaving  Quebec  on  the  mornings  of  Tuesday,  V\  edues- 
day,  Friday,  and  Saturday,  at  7.30  o'clocli. 

TICKETS  and  all  information  may  be  obtained  at  the  principal  railway  offices  In  the 
United  States  and  Canada. 

JOB.  F.  DOLAN,  Agent,  2  King  St.,  East,  Toronto.        L.  H.  MYEAKD,  Agent,  Qnebeo. 
H.  FOSTEE  CHAFFEE,  District  Passenger  Agent,  128  St.  James  Street,  Montreal. 

ALEX.  MILLOY,  C.  F.  GILDERSLEEVE, 

Traffic  Manager.  General  Manager. 

General  Offices,  228  St,  Paul  Street,  Montreal. 


alo,  N. 


N, 


Familiar  Flowers  of  Field  and  Garden. 

By  F.  Schuyler  Mathew.s,     Illustrated  with  200  Drawings  by  the  author. 
l2mo.    Library  Edition,  cloth,  $1.75;  Pocket  Edition,  flexible  morocco,  $2.25. 

IN  this  convenient  and  useful  volume  the  flowers  which  one  finds  in  the  fields  are 
identified,  illustrated,  and  described  in  familiar  langiiage.     Their  connection  with 
garden  flowers  is  made  clear.     Particular  attention  is  drawn  to  the  beautiful  ones 
which  have  come  under  cultivation,  and.  as  the  title  indicates,  the  book  furnishes  a 
ready  guide  to  a  knowledge  of  wild  and  cultivated  flowers  alike.     An  elaborate  so-page 
index  shows  at  a  glance  botanical  and  popular  names,  family,  color,  locality,  environ- 
ment, i.nd  time  of  bloom  of  several  hundred  flowers. 

For  sale  by  all  bcoksellers  ;  or  will  be  sent  by  mail  on  receipt  of  price  by  the  publishers, 
O.  APPLETON  &  CO.,  7a  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York. 


DATE    DUE 


A  fine  of  five  cents  will  be  charpccl  for  each 
day  overdue. 


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